Using the waterways as your trail allows for the luxury of carrying slightly more gear than backpacking – provided you pack smartly, with an eye on factors like balance. At the same time, the unforgiving nature of water also demands vigilance in keeping everything dry. 

With that in mind, here are 10 tips to help you get the most out of your next kayak camping adventure.

1. Pack smart, not large

Opt for multiple smaller waterproof bags instead of a few large ones. Small bags can be tucked into the nooks and crannies of your kayak, optimising space and keeping essentials within easy reach.

2. Balancing act: Distribute weight evenly

Equal weight distribution is crucial for maintaining the kayak’s stability and manoeuvrability. Pack heavier items like water and food in the centre of the kayak, close to your seat, and distribute the weight evenly from side to side. This balance is vital, especially when navigating through rougher waters or strong currents.

3. Waterproof everything

Water is a constant in kayak camping, so ensure that all items – especially clothing, bedding, and electronic devices – are stored in waterproof bags. Double-bag particularly vulnerable items to guard against water ingress, which can happen even with the best preparations.

4. Choose a compact tent

Space is at a premium in kayak camping. Choose a compact, lightweight tent specifically designed for backpacking. These tents are easier to pack and set up, and they usually come with a waterproof rating suitable for a wide range of weather conditions.

5. Get your sleep system right

A good night’s sleep can make or break any adventure. Invest in a good-quality, lightweight sleeping bag and a compact but comfortable sleeping mat. Consider the climate of your destination: a sleeping bag rated for the correct temperature and a mat that insulates you from the ground will make nights more comfortable and set you up for energetic days on the water.

6. Plan meals wisely

Pre-plan your meals to be filling, nutritious and easy to cook. Dehydrated packaged meals are excellent for saving space and reducing weight, but you can also consider simple, high-energy foods that require minimal preparation. You’ll likely want a small, reliable stove for heating up food and water. And keep in mind ways to minimise the waste you’ll generate (and must carry out with you!).

7. Water, water everywhere, but…

Always pack more water than you think you’ll need. Depending on where you’re paddling, water purification methods, such as tablets or a small filter, can reduce the amount of water you need to carry, allowing you to replenish from clean sources en route if available.

8. Keep safety gear within easy reach

Keep your safety gear, like your first aid kit, emergency communication device, head torch, knife, and waterproof matches, stowed in an easily accessible place. It’s also wise to have a float plan with someone back home, detailing your route and expected return.

9. Lighting and power

Pack a reliable head torch and, depending on the length and destination of your trip, consider a lightweight solar charger to keep electronic devices powered. These items are essential for navigation and emergency situations, especially when camping in remote areas.

10. Leave no trace

Adventuring in nature means being mindful of your environment, keeping wildlife undisturbed, and taking all your rubbish back with you. Your goal should be to leave your campsite as pristine as you found it, preserving the natural beauty for those who follow.

Bonus tip! go with the flow when kayak camping

When doing multi-day camping trips in remote locations, remember to allow the weather to dictate your itinerary to maximise comfort and safety. Be sure to plan your campsites ahead of time and consider back-up camping sites and exit plans in case of deteriorating weather conditions. Being flexible with your paddling itinerary ensures you will maximise your comfort, safety and experience.

Kayak camping is an adventure that rewards the prepared. With these tips, you’ll not only manage the practicalities of packing and paddling but also make the most of your adventure, taking you to unique places only accessible by water.

Toby Story is the Managing Director and Lead Guide at Southern Sea Ventures, which offers guided sea kayaking adventures around the globe, including many that are camping-based.

The post Paddle Pulse: Top 10 tips for kayak camping appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Personally, I should probably have a man-crush on this chiselled Yank mountain guide, but I have issues with Hamill, in fact I have a HUGE problem with the bloke… Because it’s mid-July in the Aussie Alps and he’s standing over me laughing. And what’s worse is I deserve it.

You see, when Mike first moved to Australia, I joyously discovered that for a guru of 8000m Himalayan peaks, he wasn’t so confident at 80m above sea level, on Sydney’s rutted, off-camber, sandstone mountain bike trails. His lack of confidence likely stemmed from having smashed his femur to bits riding a mountain bike only a few years previous, but that didn’t stop me dropping a few heckles. “C’mon mate, it ain’t Everest,” I jeered with a grin. In return he grinned back, and quietly suggested he’d get his own back one day. I thought to myself, “not likely mate. You won’t find me hangin’ in the death zone,” and so the heckling continued unabated.

Payback time

Now, on the semi frozen banks of the Snowy River in Kosciuszko National Park, Mike is getting his own back. He’s at home amongst the snow and ice, even if it is my own Aussie backyard rather than his usual playground of high-altitude Antarctica or the Himalayas.

We’re at the suspension bridge at Illawong, in the backcountry. The bridge hangs over the swift moving waters of the Snowy River and is a gateway to Australia’s ancient and weathered alpine peaks. This portal to adventure lies a rather short slog (that incorporates a painful snow gum-strewn sidehill traverse), from the trailhead, two and a half kilometres back at Guthega. It is also a transition point for Mike’s Australian Alpine Training Academy where our team of future mountaineers launches into the nuances of hauling a heavy sled of gear across frozen white stuff. The banks of the Snowy also happens to be where my 10-year-old snowshoes explode into a million tiny pieces… 

It occurred to me, too late, that a decade of UV and freeze/thaw cycles on plastic bindings might to lead to what some term ‘a critical failure of structural integrity’. Me… I call it, “up a creek without a paddle.” Maybe I should have ticked the checkbox beside ‘hire equipment required’. My “she’ll be right” attitude was now biting me firmly in my frozen backside. And to top it off, underneath Mike’s look of concern, I know he’s quietly laughing at me. In fact, he’s not even being quiet about it, and as promised he is getting his own back by suggesting I should be savvy enough to find a solution and catch up to the team later that day. I’m less confident in my own abilities.  

Fatefully, I do have a backup. A set of lightweight ski-touring boots and a split-board (snowboard that splits into touring skis) sit in my car back at Guthega. It’s worth a try. I inform Mike I’ll hightail it back for my gear and send a message if I think I’ll be able to re-join the team.

With plan in place the alpine academy crew traipses into the vastness of the Kosciuszko main range while I stash my pack under a rock and begin a jog (as much as you can jog in mountaineering boots on a thawing crust) back to Guthega.

Footprints to nowhere

A few startled snowshoers out for a backcountry stroll look quizzically at me as I shuffle past in high-tech mountain gear. I imagine them pondering, “who is this hardcore athlete training for a speed ascent?” Little do they know the truth.

Keeping to shadows to avoid a rapidly thawing snowpack, I manage to sweat it back to the suspension bridge with replacement gear in just over two hours. Donning a now overladen pack bulging with extra boots, PLB, shovel and a bivvy bag, I start off into the vastness of the main range following a snowshoe track south and practising the smug look I will offer Mike on my catching the team aboard my split board and new go-fast climbing-skins*.

Thirty minutes into my solo journey and my smugness wanes as cracks begin to appear in my plan. My first, rather disconcerting realisation, is the snowshoe trail I’m following splits into two. Suddenly I’m in a ‘choose your own adventure’ novel with the results of a wrong decision steering me to a cold solo night in a bivouac, and most likely ending in a backtrack to Guthega with head hung in shame. I look south where footprints traverse the Snowy, then west, where a second track climbs toward the summit of Mt Twynham, Australia’s third tallest peak. 

Fortunately, I guess right (it was left) and head southward on more well-trodden tracks to eventually find my team’s sled stash point. This leads to the second crack in my plan…I have no sled. 

I’ve stripped to my base layers pushing hard to the stash point, but unaware whether I’d follow the same path, the crew took all the sleds – and they are now a long way off, somewhere in the vast white between myself and Mount Kosciuszko. All I can do is suck it up, and skin my way south with nothing but myself and my thoughts for company.

Late in the afternoon an old groin injury begins to cramp, I suddenly feel old, and my team is still nowhere in sight. I don a headtorch as the light begins to fade and tracks become harder to discern. The brilliant blue sky turns gold and then to pink. As the first stars begin to appear, underlying concerns grow exponentially into full blown anxiousness. I am yet to find my team and it’s starting to get late. Fortunately, I’ve got food, a sleeping bag and bivvy, so I can always bail out to Charlotte Pass, but I’m not sure I’d ever live it down. A flash of a headtorch in the distance is my saving grace. 

By the time I limp into camp, my well-rehearsed smug look is long gone and has been replaced with a look of relief and exhaustion. Mike grins at me and congratulates me on not dying. It’s day one and he’s already got his own back.

Rather excitingly the crew have already dug out tent platforms and erected nearly all the tents. Not long later I am eating hot salami and toasty fajitas washed down with a splash of spiced rum in a warm mess tent. As I thaw, I begin to realise my training in “how not to die in the mountains” has already begun with lesson one: triple-check the integrity of your gear, and lesson two: always carry enough survival gear for an unexpected night out. Tomorrow, we launch into crampon technique, roped glacier travel, self-arrest, and knots. It’s going to be a full-on few days.

Learning the mountaineering ropes

What I quickly learn of Mike Hamill is, he likes food. There’s no freeze-dried on this trip and the sleds from yesterday’s long haul to base camp were most likely included less for training and more for the haulage of cheese, salami, pasta, pancakes, maple syrup, kalamata olives, smoked salmon, and anything else you might need for gourmet meals in the mountains.

Emerging from my tent to a still pink sky on morning one, I note steam rising from the door of the mess tent. I beeline to the radiating warmth of a dual burner gas stove in time for Hamill to explain.

“Just because we’re in the mountains doesn’t mean that we must suffer. Happy and well-fed climbers are successful climbers, and that goes both for Australia and the summit of Everest. We eat well across all our programs, and while it might mean a heavier load to carry in, I guarantee it pays dividends.”

He doesn’t disappoint, with hot porridge, thick pancakes, and copious amounts of freshly brewed coffee for breakfast. By the time the sun is melting the hoar frost on our tents we are warm, fed, and ready for a full day of hands-on learning.  

Now I’ll gently blow my own trumpet and let you in on a secret. I have in fact played on a few frozen expeditions previously, in Oz, NZ, Alaska and even the Canadian Arctic. 

What I discovered on all previous expeditions can be summed up in two key rules:

1. Respect the mountains (we are insignificant when compared to the power of mother nature)

2. There’s always more to learn (I haven’t scratched the surface, even with a few projects under my belt)

And thus, our mixed bunch, with varying experience on-snow, listen intently as we launch into basic crampon technique followed by self-arrest for when shit goes wrong. 

“Self-arrest is one of the most important skills you will learn.” Mike explains. 

“If you fall on a steep face then whether you are textbook or not, your sole goal is to arrest your fall. Use your ice axe, a rope, an anchor, a rock, your pole, or crampons, or if all else fails, use your fingernails. Whatever it takes. Failure to stop is not an option.”

We spend hours sliding down a slope. Upside down, right way up, feet first, headfirst, bum first it doesn’t matter. In the end we all soon get it; axe in, rotate body appropriately, slow descent, kick boots in, STOP! I will admit, there are plenty of laughs had, but all with a hint of reservedness: we all know in a real-life scenario a misplaced step can be disastrous.

As the sun climbs high, we cover off climbing efficiency, glacier travel and rope techniques and finally, as the shade from Carruthers Peak creeps over us, we head back to the warmth of a mess tent where hot smoked salmon and pasta fuels the body whilst we continue to cover off rope-work and knots into the night.

Summit, sastrugi and self-rescue

Day two dawns to another crisp morning and we’re up early to fuel up. The key objective for the day is to traverse Mt Clarke, cut under Mueller’s Pass and summit Australia’s highest peak Mt Kosciuszko, all in time for an easy return to basecamp before the predicted weather rolls in. 

My exploding snowshoe disaster now bodes well for me. My split board and climbing skins make for far easier travel compared to mountain boots and snowshoes. I am revelling in the ‘kick and slide’ of my split board as the day wears on and I am rewarded further with the discovery of wind-blown powder on the eastern flanks of Kosciuszko. My froth meter begins to soar with the realisation I will score an epic descent when returning to camp later.

Selfishly, I imagine long arcing high-speed turns enroute to camp before settling into a sleeping bag for hot chocolate whilst the others slog it out on snowshoes. My reverie however is interrupted when we run out of ‘uphill’ and the summit cairn of 2228m Kosciuszko stands before us. 

To the north lie the weathered peaks of the Main Range’s highest points of Twynham, Townsend, and Carruthers, To the east, the high plains of the main range and headwaters of the Snowy River. Southward lies the majestic Cootapatamba Cirque and the Rams Head Range and to the west, the layered peaks of the Victorian Alps. Kozi might not be the mightiest of the seven summits, but it certainly does not lack appeal.

As we refuel, sheltering behind summit rocks, the light begins to flatten and soon the Victorian Alps are nowhere in sight. I realise too late that Mother Nature has stepped in to check my ego and remind me nobody is rewarded for busted gear stupidity; the cloud rolls in and snow begins to fall. We begin the long slog home.

My intended sweet turns become a ridgeline sastrugi-riddled obstacle course followed by a slow, careful descent to the southern flanks of Mt Clarke. Rather than hot chocolate and a sleeping bag my journey to basecamp becomes a trudge. At one stage, I change over to snowboard again and scoot down Clarke Cirque only to break through a snow bridge into the trickle of a semi-frozen stream. I’d like to say I used my new-found crevasse rescue skills to escape, but a spread-eagle-worm-like wriggle succeeded before any textbook self-rescue techniques were required. It was a reminder however, not to get blasé about backcountry travel. 

By the time we get back to camp, large snowflakes fall gently. We settle into our last night with another feast of hot food, and the sound of snow sliding from tent fly sheets.

Mountaineering equals character building

Now I won’t pretend our final-day slog back to Guthega was fun. It was, instead, ‘character building.’

The falling snow eventually became rain and soon enough, we were sloshing through a fast-disappearing snowpack. By the time we traversed the maze of snow gums between Illawong and Guthega, the snowpack had diminished just enough for the sleds to tangle on the now protruding undergrowth. I won’t lie, the going was tough. 

By mid-afternoon we were finally out. We were sodden, exhausted, and the long, wet slog home had tested team spirit. But we’d continued to work together. Loads had been redistributed, upturned sleds righted by those slogging behind, and even gear shared to better help somebody else. As haggard a lot as we might have appeared, we were all grinning under our hoods.

Our Climbing the Seven Summits Winter Alpine Academy was certainly no walk in the park. The entire team had been tested at times, but star-filled nights and windless bluebird days were our reward. We had absorbed about as much backcountry knowledge as is possible and threw in a winter ascent of Kozi to boot. I realised underneath Mike’s cunning grin lies a natural born guide; his ability to teach and problem-solve on the move, in between catering to the needs of a mixed group, is an art. 

Yep, there were hard times, frozen digits, blisters, and a long slog out. But life in the backcountry, learning mountaineering skills, is not meant to be easy, it is supposed to rewarding.

The mountains don’t care who you are, what your gender is or whether you have an ego. They welcome you if you respect them and they school you if you don’t. Most importantly, they laugh at you if your snowshoes explode. 

If I only take away one lesson from this experience it will be to triple-check my kit. Oh, and never heckle a Yank mountaineering legend, for he will always get his own back – and most likely, on day one.

See Climbing the Seven Summits for more info on alpine climbing courses.

The post Into thinner air: Learning to climb mountains with an Everest guide appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Pack it in

The backpack is the primary load-carrying item for hikers (and some bikepackers), and this means you need to pay close attention to two key component: the harness and frame. How these two features of a backpack combine together is the key to comfort – and the durability of your pack (overload it, and it’ll soon, literally, start splitting at the seams). The pack harness needs to fit you perfectly, when fully loaded, and also allow for ample adjustment to attain that fit. A harness system will offer size adjustment, and varying degrees of padding in key areas, such as the waist belt and the shoulder straps. Your lower torso/back is where most of the load weight should be situated, so ensure the waist belt is comfortable and fully adjustable. Padding on the shoulders and waist is a personal thing – and is different for each gender (most pack manufacturers offer female-specific packs). In regards to the frame: nearly all large trekking packs on the market offer internal aluminium frames of various sizes and configurations, but that are all designed to support the weight, and direct that weight to load-bearing areas of your body. 

Most modern packs utilise synthetic fabrics – primarily nylon and/or polyester, with ripstop and other tear-resistant technologies, but there are still “old school” canvas packs available. The benefit of canvas is its longevity – a canvas pack, if cared for, will last for decades, although you will pay a weight penalty. Having said that, today’s canvas packs are not as heavy as their predecessors and are DWR-treated for increased water-resistance – key for this material as canvas does become heavier when wet. Synthetic packs have long ditched the question of durability, with modern variants extremely robust and, although they may not last as long as a canvas pack (and the jury is still out on that), the lighter weight is appealing.

Most packs offer varying degrees of water-resistance, with some claimed to be totally waterproof so, depending on intended use, these are an option. Regardless of ‘waterproof’ claims, we’d still recommend always using a dry bag as an inner liner for your pack – and putting all your gear inside this, and then in the pack. Also double-bag the sleeping bag; nothing ruins a good night’s sleep than a wet, cold sleeping bag. Speaking of bags that keep things dry…

Dry bags and/or waterproof hard cases (or barrels) are absolute essentials for water-borne campers – they are most definitely a paddler’s best friend as they will protect all your camping and electronic gear, as well as foodstuffs and other moisture-averse equipment. The dry bag is of very basic construction. It is usually made from heavy-duty plastic-coated fabric (vinyl is popular), or waterproofed fabric, with the joining points stitched (and then covered with seam tape), welded, or glued together. They are easy to use: roll the top opening over itself three or four times and clip the buckles together to ensure a waterproof barrier (check by squeezing on the bag; if it doesn’t deflate/contract, it is sealed). Once that’s done, it’s an easy task to secure the dry bag to/in your watercraft.

For bikepacking, it’s a bag of a different type. A frame-bag, plus other alternatives – handlebar bag, seatpost bag, etc. – is de rigeur for the off-road cyclist. These are usually made from ripstop poly/cotton canvas and are – usually – waterproof as they rely on the same sealing system (a rolltop closure) as drybags. The frame bag is usually the only bag that may feature a zip of any kind, but even this includes an over-cover for the zip section. There are some bikepacking rack systems that can also carry drybags, with NZ brand Aeroe an excellent example. The racks are light in weight and provide a stable platform for your bags – and they work with any type of bicycle.

Gimme shelter

For solo or two-up hiking, a three-season, two/three-person tent – with a separate inner and outer section – is ideal. For paddlers, the extra load-capacity of a sea kayak or canoe means you can splurge on a larger tent (especially handy if you are canoe camping with the family). If you’re on the bike, weight is of vital importance – as is the packed size of your shelter. So, for bikepackers and cycle tourers, an ultra-light one/two-person tent is desirable, and there’s also the option of a bivy. These ultra-light and ultra-compact shelters (a favourite with alpine climbers) often resemble a cocoon as they are narrow, low  to the ground and truly minimalist in the amount of ‘spare’ space they offer. Besides a bivy, another ultra-light/compact option for bike- and foot-borne adventurers is either a simple lightweight tarp, or a bug/tarp shelter combo. Where you intend travelling will play a role in how ‘substantial’ your shelter of choice is; no-one wants a flimsy single-skin tarp (with its minimal ventilation) when braving Tassie’s notoriously fickle weather, just like no-one wants to lug a full four-season tent on a summer overnight hike or bike ride on the eastern seaboard or Australia’s tropical north. 

Whichever size tent you opt for, look for one that has ample ventilation (vents down low and up high that will keep air circulating and thus maintain a dry inner), and enough space for occupants and gear. You will probably have to satisfy yourself with two of those three. 

A three-season tent, such as the Mountain Designs Redline 2P tent, the Nemo Dagger OSMO 2P, and the Mont Moondance EX tent, may offer anything from a full mesh inner, through to an inner that either comprises a 50/50 split between mesh and material, or one that possesses an extra material door; having the ability to cool the tent interior on warm days but also shut it up snug on far colder ones adds seasonal versatility, albeit with a slight weight penalty. A tent that offers two vestibules, ample dimensions, plenty of tie-down points (the more tie-down points, the more stable/secure the tent in wild weather, and an easy set-up will win every time. 

Tents that pitch inner-first are great if it is hot as you can just pitch the inner (or outer) and sleep under the stars. However, if it is raining when you get to camp, an inner-first design means your sleeping area will get wet during set-up. Integral-pitch tents (such as the Macpac Microlight) set up all-in-one and, in wet conditions, keep the inner dry. Most two-person tents (there are exceptions) are really only for singles (or couples) but you will find there are plenty of impressively lightweight three-person tents on the market these days that allow for more space. Yes, you will pay a premium for a larger, lighter tent, but the investment will be a sound one. 

Nylon and polyester, with siliconised and non-siliconised variants of both, are the two main tent materials. Polyester is more resistant to UV rays than nylon and won’t sag as much when wet, while siliconised versions of both materials are more durable. A tent fabric’s water-resistance is measured in Hydrostatic Head (HH) which indicates the pressure of water needed to penetrate a fabric; the higher the number the better. Most tents will have a fly fabric rated to at least 1500mm HH, but we reckon a figure of 3000mm is what you should ideally be looking for. This same measure applies for floor materials but is even more important as that is where most water-ingress problems begin – the higher the better! Just be aware that, generally, the higher the HH ratings, the heavier the tent. As with large touring/family tents, aluminium is the only choice for tent poles (unless you have the dosh for some super-light and tough carbon poles), with manufacturers offering poles in various grades of aluminium and diameters – both of which can influence the tent’s asking price – and its weight. 

Before you do head off though, make sure you check that all your gear will definitely fit in your flash lightweight tent; there’s nothing worse than having to store gear outside then watch it get drenched in a rainstorm because you don’t have the space inside to store it. A bit more space for a tiny weight increase is more than worth it. 

Related: The North Face Stormbreak 2 hiking tent: Tested

Sleep easy

Mummy, rectangular, or semi-rectangular shape? Down or synthetic fill? Yep, there are a multitude of questions when it comes to choosing a sleeping bag for lightweight adventures. Sleeping bags are designed to trap and utilise the occupant’s body heat to keep them warm and, at the least, whichever bags you look at, they should have a hood, draft collar, zip and neck tubes. For the ultimate in light weight and optimum warmth retention, a down-filled mummy-shaped bag is the best option by far. Its snug fit means that your body heat is retained efficiently as there is minimal “dead space” in the bag for your body to have to heat up. 

The mummy-shaped bag’s light weight and compact packed size, which affords it that excellent warmth efficiency, is also its slight negative. The rather snug fit can be hard to accommodate when you’re trying to get some shut-eye – not everyone can sleep so confined, although newer “relaxed” mummy bags go some way to addressing this. 

Rectangular bags are out thanks to the larger dimensions that add bulk and weight, while your body works overtime to try and warm up all that ‘dead space’ around it at night. Even for canoe/kayak touring, we’d steer clear of these bags; both watercraft offer more stowage space (especially the canoe, as mentioned earlier) but trying to stuff a couple of these big sleeping bags into compartments and/or drybags will soon see that space advantage disappear. 

Semi-rectangular bags are a good “all-rounder” option with less empty space to have to warm up than a rectangular, as well as handy inclusions such as full-length zips (side and foot sometimes separate), and the ability to be opened right up to form a large duvet. (handy if you’re travelling as a couple as, in more temperate conditions, you may only need one bag between two). You pay a slight weight and bulk penalty with semi-rectangular bags compared to a mummy, so these would be probably off the radar for bikepackers, where every gram (and millimetre) of weight and size counts when packing bike-bags. You can definitely get compact semi-rectangular down sleeping bags but the technology (and high grade of down) involved in achieving this means the asking price can be astronomical.

In terms of a bag’s warmth rating, look for those bags that adhere to the European standard EN 13537, which provides standard “comfort”, “limit of comfort” and “extreme” ratings. And then, there’s the question of fill…   

Synthetic and down are your two choices for bag fill. The term “fill” describes the material that is used to fill the space between the sleeping bag’s inner layer and outer shell; it is the stuff that will keep you warm. In terms of warming and compact size bang for your bucks, down is the winner for lightweight packing, but please note that not all down is the same. This natural material (the small fine feathers hidden underneath a bird’s larger exterior feathers, often on the chest) is graded according to “loft”, which is used to explain the ability of down to expand and fill an empty space – in this case the baffles in your sleeping bag. Basically, the higher the loft number, the higher the capacity to retain warmth. Down’s, er downer, is the fact that, when it gets moist/wet, it offers zero insulative qualities, something that could be dangerous in certain conditions. However, there are a lot of (relatively expensive) water-resistant down fill bags now on the market. 

Synthetic fill does retain some insulative capability when wet – and it will also dry out faster than down. Synthetic-fill bags are also cheaper than their down equivalents, although they will be bulkier and heavier; to gain an equivalent warmth rating you’re looking at an average 25% increase in weight and packed size. Again, for the bikepacker, this may preclude synthetic-fill bags as an option, especially if you’re cycling in colder locations. You simply won’t get as much warmth per gram with synthetic as you will with down, much less the packed size. Synthetic fill also isn’t as breathable as down so is more susceptible to retaining odours but, conversely, is easier to wash and is also low-allergenic. For hikers and paddlers, a synthetic-fill bag is a viable option.

Lay me down

You can go totally ‘old school’ with lightweight camping and sleeping mats and opt for a solid foam mat (which will never fail or lose air at the most inopportune time) or you can choose the latest in hi-tech (and lightweight) inflatable sleeping mats. It is worth noting that the solid-foam mat has actually been subject to a lot of technological advances, with a number of respected outdoor brands offering these – and with promised more comfort! The disadvantage with a solid-foam mat (besides that lack of mattress height) is that they are still relatively bulky when packed. This is not an issue for hikers or paddlers, but bikepackers will need to look elsewhere, to the wide range of inflatable mats on the market.

Inflatable sleeping mats – whether self-inflating or via a pump (or your lungs) – are more expensive than the solid-foam mat but do raise comfort levels significantly. There are many variants, with some offering different types of insulation (both natural, in the form of down, and synthetic), while others offer reflective material inside the mat that is claimed to reflect and retain your body heat. Then there’s the range of mat heights on offer; depending on how much ‘plush’ you like, you can find mats with heights ranging from 25mm up to 100mm. For hiking and bikepacking, mats in the 25-50mm height range offer the best combo of light weight and compact packed size, while paddling campers can up the comfort levels significantly to the 100mm jobbies if they so desire. 

The outdoor pop-up cafe

For some reason, food always tastes nicer when it’s been cooked in the outdoors. When you’re on a big adventure – whether a hike, paddle or cycle – food choice is important, with both caloric needs to attend to, as well as the overall weight of the ingredients. 

Firstly, food is heavy, so you really need to balance out the ideal of eating ‘fresh’ every day with perhaps mixing it up a bit and including a few dehydrated meals. It is here that the paddling adventurers win; being able to lug more fresh ingredients thanks to the additional load-carrying capacity afforded by their respective water-craft. 

Hikers and bikepackers need not despair. Dehydrated meals are at the point where they are relatively close to the ‘real thing’, and simply require boiled water poured into their bag and, minutes later, you’re digging into a what seems like a gourmet extravaganza. 

Food aside, we’d also highly – and we can’t emphasise that word, ‘highly’, enough – recommend a water filter, or preferably two. Whether you opt for a tablet-based water purifying system, or go for a more advanced physical unit, don’t go without them. The last thing you want is a stomach bug when you’re in the outdoors.

At the furnace

Reliability and ease of use is key when it comes to stoves for hiking, paddling or biking. The final choice will come down to what type of meals you wish to cook, the length of time away, and the conditions in which you will be cooking them. A stove’s fuel type governs stove designs and, along with the type of meals you usually cook when outdoors (boil-in-the-bag; meals using fresh ingredients), will influence your stove choice. There are three main types of stoves suited to lightweight adventures: canister (liquid gas) based, liquid fuel based, and natural fuel based. Each of these will have advantages/disadvantages to the other and choice will also depend on where you intend going.

Most human-powered adventures in Australia take place below the tree-line, which means you will be either cooking simple meals or boiling water, making the gas canister-based stove probably the best option. Canister stoves can include fuel types such as propane, butane and isobutane (or a mix of these) and are generally very quick to bring water to the boil; the Jetboil Flash is a great example of this stove-type. Be aware, however, that these fuel types boil at different temperatures, which will be a consideration if you’re heading for colder environs; butane boils at -0.5C, while propane boils at around -42C – a big difference. For this stove type, the canister generally screws into the burner itself and they are set up in an upright position.

There are also canisters that connect via a hose to the burner, aiding stability and allowing users to invert the canister for better performance in colder conditions. Plus, with the burner on a small stand, you gain a more stable base if you bring along a pan, for example. This stove-type offers excellent simmer control as well. A notable disadvantage of those all-in-one canister stoves that have a ‘tall’ pot attached when in use, though, is their stability. Relying on just the canister (or, in some cases, a small attached stand) as a base and then having all that weight of water/food in a vertical pot, means they are very top-heavy and easy to knock over if not being attentive. 

Related: Jetboil Flash: Tested

Liquid-fuel stoves are more ‘cold-friendly’ and (depending on the model) can burn different fuel types, too, with Coleman, MSR and Optimus some of the many brands that produce a range of these stove types. The liquid-fuel stoves comprise a pump, tank, fuel hose, burner and a valve to control output, with the burner connected to the fuel bottle via the hose, thus the burner provides a more solid base for larger pots and pans. Operation is more complex than the screw-in canister stove, whereby you use the pump to pressurise the fuel inside the fuel bottle, forcing it down the hose to the burner.

Fuel used is most commonly Shellite (also known as ‘white gas’), but some units can use kero, diesel or petrol, which is super handy in more remote areas where gas canisters (or Shellite) may not be available. Some liquid-fuel stoves are designed to just blast out fast heat to melt snow, whereas others offer reasonable simmer-control, allowing the camp chef in you to expand your menu somewhat. One thing to note with the liquid-fuel stove is that it will take up more space in your pack/bikebag/drybag. For hikers and paddlers, this may not be a big (excuse the pun) issue, but for bikepackers it may be.

Alcohol-fuel stoves are another option, with methylated spirits the most popular of this fuel type (the Trangia stove is an iconic example). These stoves are very basic in operation (you simply light up the small amount of fuel in the ‘bowl’), and this simplicity makes them incredibly reliable. This stove type is also very stable, due to its pot/base all-in-one design, although it is bulkier/heavier than gas-based options. You will need to be more patient, though, the alcohol fuel stoves take longer to boil water/cook food than a canister or liquid-fuel stove. Plus, cold weather can stretch that cooking time out even more.

Camp cutlery

Pots, pans, cups bowls and cutlery – there are myriad options for the lightweight chef.

Stainless steel is the heaviest pot/pan material but a great conductor of heat. It is also the most robust, by far. Titanium is the lightest and most expensive, while offering decent heat conduction and, if you are adamant you want metal cutlery – and can afford it – this is the best option (and still incredibly durable). The best compromise for weight, performance, cleaning and cost is aluminium, coated with a non-stick material. There is also a wide variety of collapsible cutlery on the market – usually made from silicon – and this is fantastic for the lightweight camper. For utensils, such as knives, spatulas, forks, etc., any of the above materials work well but also consider synthetic alternatives – they are tough, durable and lighter than their metal-based equivalents.

Light your way

For such a simple device, the head torch is available in a plethora of lightweight designs. Manufacturers have approached lighting technology in a variety of ways but the constant is the use of Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) as the light source. Some torches offer one large LED, usually with a variety of lighting levels and a spread and/or pencil-beam as the light’s shape. Others combine small, (5mm) LEDs with a larger high-intensity LED, along with modes allowing the user to switch between small or large lights. Steer clear of those with a separate power pack; most of today’s compact head torches provide more than ample campsite illumination, without the added weight, bulk and complication of a separate power pack.

For those only using their head torch for close-in lighting (say, around camp/when cooking) a torch with standard 5mm LEDs will suffice. If you plan on doing a lot of night-time exploring around camp, opt for a head torch that includes a high-power LED of at least 1W (preferably 3 to 5W) but also has standard LEDs so you can switch between light levels. Most head torches offer a reasonable degree of water resistance but, if you can, opt for a waterproof model. The type of battery can vary. Most use alkaline batteries, while other, often more powerful, models (generally – but not always) with an additional power pack use a Lithium battery, which has the inconvenience of needing to be recharged – not easy in the bush. 

Footwear

Softer nubuck or suede leather, hybrid leather/synthetic, or straight synthetic boots are all great options for hiking, with the final choice governed by the terrain you will be walking through/on. Due to improved manufacturing techniques, people are getting nearly the same amount of wear out of these (much) lighter boots, without a leather boot’s inherent weight penalty – or the lengthy wearing-in period of full leather. Just be sure that, no matter which material(s) option you go for, you try as many different brands and models on as you can before throwing down your hard-earned. An ill-fitting boot can destroy a hike through blisters and/or muscular aches. 

For paddlers, it’s all about keeping your feet dry – not easy when you’re in a sea kayak or canoe and in and out of the water… There are a number of ‘water shoes’ on the market that promote fast-drying or ultra-grippy soles, but for the best bang for your bucks, a pair of Dunlop Volleys are close to ideal (and still quite popular with paddlers today). These ‘old’ shoes provide excellent grip on wet and slippery terrain and are light in weight. They will take a wee bit longer to dry out compared to the modern all-mesh water shoes (with additional drain holes in sides, on the sole, etc.) but are seriously good bang for your bucks if on a budget. Add in an additional pair of around-camp runners or sandals stored in a dry-bag, and you’re good to go.

If you’re on your pushy, it’s about finding a shoe that is both comfortable on the bike when pedalling, but still enables you to walk around when off it. That way, you immediately save the weight of a second pair. Companies such as Five Ten and Shimano offer both clip-in and flat-pedal shoes that can do double-duty. If you do want to give your feet an airing, there are a number of ultra-light sandal/thongs on the market that pack down nice and compact.

Layering-up for lightweight camping

Having the correct layers is an absolute must for any camping trip, no matter how you get yourself to the campsite. Whether a hiker, cyclist or paddler, the ideal layer system for the day’s activity is a base/thermal layer against your skin; a mid/thermal layer over that and, dependent on conditions, a wind/waterproof outer layer (also termed an outer shell).

Wearing multiple layers means you are more easily able to regulate your body’s temperate, reducing the chances of overheating, or becoming too cold. Your base layer should be close fitting and highly breathable, as well as effective at transferring moisture (known as ‘wicking’), in the form of your sweat, away from your body and to the outer garments, so as to keep your body temp stable. The mid/thermal layer is the one you will be removing or adding the most during the course of a day, dependent on how warm/cold you are at any particular time, so it does the lion’s share of retaining wearer warmth.

The term “outer layer” is used to describe an outer shell garment, primarily a water/windproof jacket. The outer layer is your main safety net when it comes to rain and wind, whether during the hike/paddle/ride, or at camp. Eliminating the impact of these weather conditions on your body ensures you stay far more comfortable – and don’t get too chilled, which can lead to hypothermia. And make sure your socks stay dry and/or warm at least (merino is the go here). There’s nothing worse than mooching around camp with cold/wet feet. Always pack a spare pair or two of socks for this.

One final essential, and in all but the middle of summer, we’d still suggest packing a compact down/synthetic fill jacket for lightweight camping. It sounds like overkill in Australia, but these items are surprisingly light in weight and pack down small while offering protection not only against the cold but also wind and (if waterproof) to rain. Plus, if you don’t use it for that, it’ll still be useful as a pillow!

Other around-camp apparel will include long pants and clean socks, base- and/or mid-layer, and a sunhat or (if colder) a beanie. With the use of both natural (merino) and synthetic wonder-materials, you can take a bare minimum of layers with you for lightweight camping and still be comfortable. Speaking of material matters…

It’s a material world

Merino wool or synthetic fibre – these are the two material choices for outdoor clothing, and each has its advantages and disadvantages. Merino wool has become the favourite of many, and not just because it is seen as “natural”, renewable and stylish. Merino wool fibre is highly breathable, so it regulates body temperature very well. It is also odour-resistant, to the point where merino tragics spruik their days or weeks of wearing without washing! Merino’s other big advantage over synthetic is that it still retains heat when wet and is also fire-retardant. The trade-off with merino is that it is heavier per gram of fibre, more expensive and, because it can soak up close to 30 percent of its own weight in moisture, can become heavy when wet. It is also less durable than synthetic – although at least holes can be re-darned. The final slight negative: it costs notably more.

Synthetic fibre (polypropylene is a common example) balances the ledger against merino by being lighter in weight per gram and, most importantly, faster drying. It also trumps merino regarding moisture transfer (wicking of sweat, rather than absorbing it) and, when dry, provides great warmth for less weight (think lightweight fleece). Plus, there are now synthetic garments on the market that offer anti-microbial treatments to reduce that “poly pong”. You will also pay less for a synthetic-fibre garment (in general) compared to an equivalent merino. Negatives are, when wet, there’s minimal heat retention (the material feels very cold against your skin when wet), and it is flammable.

Synthetic still rules when it comes to a waterproof/breathable outer shell, with waterproof membrane fabric technology, such as Gore-tex and The North Face’s FutureLight two excellent examples. This technology is featured in ever-lighter outer shells, too, meaning you do not sacrifice protection from the elements with that lighter load.

If you look at your layers as a system and buy items accordingly, you won’t go wrong. Merino products will cost you more – and are heavier in your pack – but offer plenty of warming and comfort bang for their bucks. If you’re on a more limited budget, the odour-resistant synthetic-fibre outdoor clothing now available is a smart purchase.

Lightweight camping: The final word

A focus on light and robust gear selection, followed by some shorter hikes/paddles/rides are the best way to get comfortable with your lighter kit. A lighter load means you can travel more distance each day of your adventure, and you’ll be amazed at how much ‘fresher’ you will feel at each day’s end as a result of carrying a lighter load. The perception of lightweight gear being overly fragile will soon be a distant memory as you come to trust and enjoy the freedom – with no drop in function – that lightweight gear allows.

The post Light and easy: A guide to lightweight camping appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The attractions of outback touring go beyond that sense of isolation and remoteness and also take in the rich ties this landscape has with all Australians, whether it is the eons-old indigenous culture, or the more recent European explorers’ history. It is this sense of retracing the steps of early explorers that is one draw for visitors. This, in turn, is further enriched by the chance to experience that ‘sense of place’ so ingrained in Indigenous culture – along with the physical reminders of their long and continued residence here, in the form of reliable waterholes, petroglyphs, etc.

The other appeal is that, rather than being ‘the same thing every day’, a week or two (or longer), exploring one or more of Australia’s outback regions really brings home how unique each of them is, in terms of wildlife, Indigenous links, terrain, camping, the driving challenges and plenty more. 

Yeah, it sounds impossibly romantic; packing the 4WD and heading to points unknown, but that notion of outback escapism needs to be, firstly, backed by a whole lot of research, planning and preparation. Once that is out of the way – and the actual pre-trip prep can be more than half the fun – is when the real adventure starts. Let’s go…

Planning sure does pay

For this writer – and I am sure for most adventurers – poring over a series of maps is an integral part of the trip planning process, regardless of your destination. With a focus on remote outback travel, having access to a number of maps – and accurate ones – is key to effective trip preparation. The reasons are many and include the obvious of seeing where your destination is, in relation to where you’re starting point, along with giving you a great overall ‘visual’ of the country you will be covering in terms of access tracks, refuelling points (whether in towns, Aboriginal communities, or likely fuel drop-off/caching points), whether there are any water sources in the region, and – of course – the total distance of the route/track you will be following. 

Large area maps are your best starting point (think: Hema’s excellent Great Desert Tracks maps), and from there you can move down in map scale and also start using digital mapping (websites and/or apps and GPS units), with ExplorOz a brilliant example.

Some, but not all, of Australia’s deserts are comprised of both national parks and Aboriginal-owned land, and one of the first checks you do need to do is that based around any essential permits you may need to traverse these lands. Most states’ national parks and the various Indigenous land councils have online permit systems that are, generally, pretty easy to access and fill in. Some permits may take longer to acquire than others, though, so bear that in mind and make sure you give the relevant authorities plenty of notice of your travel dates. By doing this it allows any communication to and from regarding your trip plans to be undertaken, thus ensuring the relevant authorities know exactly where you are – and how long for. As an example: this writer had a potential Arnhem Land trip quashed years ago after gaining approval from the Traditional Owners thanks to plenty of transparency in communication, only to have it stopped by a tie-wearing office-bound bureaucrat in Darwin. Just sayin’…

Never run dry

With the distances and remoteness of Australia’s deserts, planning for a trip here involves accounting for a number of unique factors, starting with one of the essentials: fuel usage for your vehicle – and yourselves. 

Think of some of the longer desert tracks in Oz, such as the 1619km Canning Stock Route (CSR) or the 1324km Anne Beadell Highway, and you soon realise an accurate estimate of fuel consumption is crucial to a successful and safe adventure. As most know, any vehicle will use more fuel when driven on unsealed surfaces. Add in the mechanical effort needed to push a two-tonne-plus vehicle through sand and you will need to factor in far heavier consumption than ‘normal’.

This would also be a good time to check on maps and/or any online resources as to the longest distance between re-fuelling points. As an example, the distance between fuel points on the CSR is a heady 977km, necessitating the planning of a fuel drop or two. Some travellers (mostly, but not exclusively), will have the capacity to lug the required amount of fuel – usually in jerry cans, sometimes in addition to a fitted aftermarket long-range tank – but that will depend on your vehicle’s load-carrying capacity. The temptation is to put jerrys up on the roof-rack, but the additional load up high does affect vehicle handling. You will need to check not your roof-rack load capacity, but the manufacturer’s maximum permitted load for the vehicle’s roof. You might be surprised how little that burly 4WD wagon of yours is legally allowed to carry up top. An alternative to roof-stored fuel is to fit an aftermarket rear bar that incorporates twin jerry-can holders (or, a single jerry holder and spare wheel carrier).

The other liquid essential on any desert trip is water. And by this we mean not only having enough water on-board for keeping everyone hydrated, but for other essential activities, such as cooking, washing up, personal hygiene and potentially having to top-up vehicles’ radiators. Again, distance (and amount of resupply points) plays a part in estimating how much you will need, but we’d recommend at least 20 litres per day, per person. Yep, that sounds a lot, and it soon adds up in terms of weight and eating into your vehicle’s load capacity. However, in this instance, it’s best not to quibble. A further tip that applies to both water and fuel storage is to ensure your jerry cans/containers are in excellent condition and that you don’t store all the liquid in one or two containers. If the unfortunate does happen and it springs a leak, you could lose a significant portion of your water/fuel supply – something to be avoided anywhere, but especially in arid country.

Perpetual motion

Safe outback travel means having a vehicle that is set up for the conditions and in tip-top mechanical condition. This is one of the first things that needs addressing as you plan your dream escape. A full going-over by a mechanic who specialises in outback travel prep is a must; checking for suspension (and tyre) wear and tear, as well as ensuring all the hoses and fitments in the engine bay are in robust condition and that all accessories are securely – and correctly – fitted, will mean you have already significantly reduced the chances of breaking down. The next step will be for them (and you) to draw up a list of essential spare parts that you will need to carry in the event that something does break – and this may still happen regardless of how ‘new’ the fitted parts are; the desert, in particular, is unforgiving. We’re not all accomplished bush mechanics (tip from this writer: travel with one if you can!) but more basic repairs, such as how to plug a punctured tyre (yep, a puncture-repair kit is another must-pack), should be within your skill-set if you plan on spending time in remote areas. 

One near-essential is a second spare wheel/tyre; rough tracks can be murder on even the toughest tyres. Even though tyre plugs can work miracles, if you tear a tyre sidewall, the plugs don’t work; having a second spare brings additional reassurance and ups the safety factor when you are, literally, many miles from anywhere.

Driving through desert country usually means negotiating myriad dunes and these are often taller/deeper than your vehicle. Fitment of a sand flag is non-negotiable as it assists any oncoming traffic being able to see you, thus avoiding a head-on collision. Packing specialist sand-recovery gear – on top of your normal recovery kit, which should include snatch straps, shackles, ropes, gloves, tyre levers, jack, etc. – is another must.

A set (or more) of Maxtrax offers great insurance for those driving over sandy tracks. These are very robust and also very easy to use. Plus, they don’t weigh much, offering excellent recovery bang-for-bucks. The final piece of the vehicle puzzle is an effective communication setup. Not only does a reliable UHF radio (or satphone; this is more for any emergency situation, as is a Personal Location Beacon) ensure you’re never totally stranded if the worst-case scenario eventuates; being able to call on the channel occasionally to see if there is any other traffic approaching helps reduce further the chance of a vehicle-on-vehicle incident. Speaking of which, it goes without saying that at least one, but preferably more, of your expedition crew should have the latest Remote First Aid training – and a comprehensive First Aid kit should be packed.

Outback basecamp

Nothing beats pulling up in the middle of the desert in the evening, cooking up a storm and enjoying a few cold drinks as the sun sets over the dunes. That sounds like a dream scenario but, as long as you have the required remote power requirements to keep the lights glowing and the fridge cool, you’ll get to enjoy that dream-like outback dining experience every night on your outback adventure. 

It does all come down to power. To this end, it’s worth expanding your regular off-road power options, such as a dual-battery setup or portable power pack, to include portable solar panels. These are relatively cheap, reliable and pretty much a standard inclusion on outback travel equipment lists. With the outback touring season usually the time of clear days – every day – being able to set up solar panels at camp renders the question of reliable power moot. There are myriad solar panel systems available, so you will need to research what suits your particular requirements. Also worth tackling is a course on basic auto-electrical repairs – or at least having some knowledge of how your vehicle’s auxiliary power setup works in case you have to troubleshoot power-related problems. 

Travelling with a portable fridge means you will be able to keep food fresh for a decent amount of time in the desert. Making it last longer is possible by selecting a fridge/freezer combo unit, where a portion of the fridge is a dedicated freezer. Another trick to ensure fresh grub for longer is to get your local butcher/food supplier to cryo-vac your meat. By vacuuming all the air out of the container, the use-by date of meats in particular can be extended significantly. 

Don’t forget you’re on outback time

One thing often forgotten in the dreaming, researching and final planning of the big outback adventure is just how much time it can take. Driving in sand, especially, is where you need to balance momentum and patience, and also where you need to realise it will take longer to negotiate numerous dunes than it would to traverse a long, straight outback road. 

Even though the actual distance between two points may be ‘not that long’, driving in soft sand, having to perform the occasional recovery, and stopping to take in your surrounds, all takes time – and makes for the perfect excuse not to rush. There’s no reason you can’t stay at, say, Camp 15 on the Madigan Line for more than one night (and same applies to that speccy campsite at Cape York), as you’ve spent months and lots of money planning and prepping to get yourself out to a destination few people will ever experience, so make sure you allocate enough time to soak it up properly. After all, you’ll be on ‘outback time’, in a place that has seen thousands of years of Indigenous inhabitants and a few hundred years of explorers traversing it. We’re sure it – and you – will cope with spending a little bit of time out there…

Vehicle choices

Outback travel is punishing on vehicles due to the usually rugged tracks and roads, as well as the potential for water-crossings and steep, slippery tracks that need to be negotiated carefully. This all points to a 4WD as being the only choice for those who wish to experience the more remote (and beautiful) parts of Australia.

In terms of motivation, diesel engines are still the number one choice for long-distance remote touring, due to better fuel economy than the equivalent petrol engine, and the availability of diesel in very remote areas. Then, you need to decide whether you go for a 4WD ute or a 4WD wagon, and that choice is not always straightforward…

The outback workhorse
The 4WD dual-cab ute is probably the most popular option for serious and regular outback tourers. This is due to a number of reasons, starting with the fact these utility vehicles can carry a considerably heavier load than a 4WD wagon, thanks to a ute’s rear tray. That rear tray also adds always-welcome cargo storage space for travelling families: with the simple addition of a canopy (a hard shell that covers the ute tray) you gain copious storage space – far more than you will find in a wagon. Utes are built to lug heavy loads so are considerably robust, but they are longer and there are certain sacrifices you make if you opt for one. Chief among this is, even though they have improved immensely, utes do not offer as comfortable a ride for passengers as a 4WD wagon does. This is due to the firm rear suspension (usually ‘old school’ leaf-springs) that have to be quite stiff/firm so they can cope with those heavier loads.

For families, the rear seat of a dual-cab (four-door) ute is, today, a better place to spend time in, but still not as comfortable as the second-row seating in a wagon, where most second-row seating these days can be tilted back for more comfort (a ute’s second row cannot). Still, a properly set up ute, with a spacious canopy that houses a cargo-drawer system for storing all essential gear, a fridge/freezer, auxiliary power setup, all your dusty camping gear, and further (light) gear loaded up on top on a roof-rack, makes for a formidable outback touring vehicle.

Circle the wagons
If you opt for a more comfortable 4WD wagon, you will have to work with less cargo space and a lower maximum payload figure (the legal amount of weight a vehicle can carry). But you will gain more security for your gear in the back, that aforementioned additional comfort for the kids, and a more supple ride overall, thanks to the use of coil spring suspension all-round (rather than the firmer leaf-spring rear suspension found on a ute). You will, as mentioned, have to pack more cleverly – and with that payload figure always in mind. As an example, most popular large 4WD wagons these days (think: Toyota’s LandCruiser or Prado; Ford Everest; Isuzu MU-X) have payload figures around the 600-650kg mark, compared to a ute’s 900-1000kg. Add a set of sturdy cargo-drawers, fridge/freezer, roof-rack, bull bar and driving lights, camping gear, food, water and yourselves to a 4WD wagon and you will soon be close to that maximum payload figure. (Some 4WD wagons do have higher payloads – the Land Rover Defender, at 850kg-plus, is an example.)

To ensure you don’t skimp on gear, look for lighter-weight equipment, i.e., instead of two heavy canvas swags or a big canvas touring tent, look at lightweight alternatives (hiking tents, for example). There’s a tendency to throw every accessory on a 4WD but this is often overkill. A good example is cargo drawer systems. These are very handy, but you can set up a similar storage system in the back using robust plastic boxes that are lighter – you just have to make sure it ‘works’ effectively in terms of being able to reach and unload essential camping gear quickly once you arrive at your destination.

Vehicle Essentials

For those contemplating an outback trip of, say, a couple of weeks or longer, there are a few accessories that will considerably enhance the overall experience. Here are our top five.
Fridge/freezer. These are brilliant. Running it off a portable power pack or an auxiliary battery system – or a portable solar panel setup at camp, means your food stays fresh and your drinks cold. If you can fit one in, a dual-compartment fridge and freezer unit (one compartment runs as the fridge, the other a freezer) is the best option.
All-terrain tyres. Nearly all 4WD wagons and utes come with road-biased tyres, due to the fact that even the most prolific outback travellers will still spend more time on the road. An all-terrain tyre features more robust construction and a chunkier tread pattern to ensure optimum traction on slippery or muddy surfaces. Plus, the thicker sidewalls increase protection against staking/puncturing.
Tyre repair kit. These are invaluable. Easy to use, a tyre repair kit can mean the difference between being stranded and getting back to civilisation.
Aftermarket suspension. For those who will spend considerable time on rough tracks, an aftermarket suspension setup is worth the price. These are designed specifically for rougher road surfaces and are stronger and more effective at providing a comfortable and safer ride. 
Driver training. Modern 4WDs are very easy to drive on the road – no different to a regular car or station wagon – but if you intend using them for what they are designed for, we thoroughly recommend a 4WD driver training course. You will learn just how your vehicle works off-road (and why), and also how to drive to challenging conditions.

The post Go beyond: the ultimate guide to outback travel appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Hiking in the NT

It’s hard to resist the lure of Australia’s largest national park, Kakadu, so we store our 36-year-old Viscount caravan and hire a Britz “Safari” Land Cruiser with a roof-top tent. An adventure in Kakadu can be big but it doesn’t have to be, especially if you’re living or travelling through Darwin, about 1.5 hours’ away. Although a visit requires a 4WD and rough-around-the-edges sleeping arrangements, the highlights are undoubtedly the hikes to remote waterfalls. You won’t want to miss Maguk, Gunlom or Ubirr, but if you only have time for one, make it Jim Jim Falls, purely for the adventure factor. It’s a long and sweaty hike (especially with a toddler) over boulders, through monsoon forest and alongside a glassy creek. The reward is one of Australia’s most awe-inspiring landscapes: an amphitheatre of rock that towers above two inky green pools and a small sandy beach. In the wet season (summer) there’s a raging waterfall and it’s inaccessible but in the dry (winter), Jim Jim will burn the energy of the most active children – and their parents.

Don’t forget… to leave just after breakfast, to avoid NT’s heat and Kakadu’s “crowds”.
Make it happen… by hiring a 4WD through Britz, which has a depot in Darwin.

Boating in Queensland

It’s known for having some of the whitest and finest sand in the world, which makes Queensland’s Whitehaven Beach a popular day-trip destination for anyone and everyone. For families, it’s a good way to test your sea legs (or, more so, the sea legs of your children), without submitting them to a full multi-day sailing package. Cruise Whitsundays offers morning and afternoon trips to Whitehaven, a seven-kilometre-long stretch of sand on Whitsunday Island. If you want to do more than splash about in the aquamarine water, follow the Solway Circuit, a 1.2km (one-way) track that is part of the Ngaro Sea Trail. Learn about the history of the region and the traditional owners, the Ngaro, as you soak in views of Solway Passage, Pentecost Island and more.

Don’t forget… to take shade for the beach. There is very little provided by the cruise company, and you’ll have two hours in the sun.
Make it happen… Cruise Whitsundays picks up from Port of Airlie, and Daydream and Hamilton islands.

Snorkelling in NSW

With a beach at the end of our street and many more within walking, cycling and easy driving distance, often micro adventures are as simple as keeping it local. You could have a family surf session or SUP, but one of my favourite mother-son activities is snorkelling. Terrigal Haven, on the NSW Central Coast, is a great spot as it’s often where beginner scuba divers learn their skills; just be sure to use a float so the boaties and fisher folk know you’re there. Toowoon Bay is another favourite, as the tides create a lagoon-like area that’s safe for kids learning to use a snorkel and mask for the first time. Marine life doesn’t compare to that in tropical climates, but you could spot small rays, squid, flathead and groupers. And for young children, snorkelling is more about the novelty than spotting numerous nudibranchs anyway.

Don’t forget… to be patient if it’s your child’s first few times. They’ll likely get frustrated when water gets in their mask.
Make it happen… you won’t find many snorkelling tour companies in NSW; they tend to focus on scuba. But you can grab an affordable mask and snorkel set from many chainstores or online, and head out with a family member or friend who’s confident in the ocean. Go to Seabreeze for the tide, wind, and swell forecast.

Snowboarding in Victoria

It’s a lucky child that gets to enjoy the snow in Australia before they’ve even started school, but one of the main reasons I’ve been determined to teach my kids snowboarding is to instil a love for the outdoors in all climates. There’s no doubt about it, the snow can be a challenging environment for anyone – blizzards, sleet, ice, below-zero temperatures – but it can also be magical in so many ways. Mt Buller in the Victorian Alps is a family favourite ski resort because you’re smack bang right on the slopes, making it easy to go from the chairs back to the chalet for numerous reasons – mid-morning snack, breastfeeding breaks, a change of socks. The resort’s main slope, Bourke Street, is a great beginner run that’s not too flat and not too steep, and it features a magic carpet area that my then three-year-old daughter loved. I also recommend you book your children into a private snowboarding lesson. 

Don’t forget… to travel in the shoulder seasons (June and September) because there will be less people on the slopes and that means more space for you.
Make it happen… by booking accommodation, lift passes and lessons through the Mt Buller website, where you can also check snow conditions and resort entry rules.

Camping in Tassie

I’ve lost count of how many campsites I’ve taken my kids to, especially after a year of caravanning around Australia, but one of the most memorable is Tasmania’s Chain of Lagoons. This place is a fantastic free campsite, set behind the dunes of a quiet, creamy beach. The only facilities are drop toilets, so it’s best if you are self-sufficient or happy to rough it for a few days. It’s a top long-weekend destination for anyone in Launceston, less than two hours’ away, or for Hobart residents, who are under three hours’ south. Spend your days swimming, beachcombing, fishing, and popping into the nearby tourist village of Bicheno.

Don’t forget… that if you want to shower, take a bucket for a “bush bath” (a.k.a. a wet-cloth wipe down).
Make it happen… by staying outside of school holidays. The campground isn’t on the typical tourist trail, but it is well-known in the camping world.

Coasteering in WA

Coasteering is not for the faint-hearted, and I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone not confident in the ocean. But if you have an adventurous teenager (or competent tween) who’s tagging along on a tour of wineries in WA’s Margaret River region (“bor-ring”), they’ll be stoked if you book a coasteering micro adventure. Margaret River Adventure Co. runs two-hour coasteering experiences, where you scramble over rocks and jump into swell while kitted out in wetsuits, helmets, and life vests. It’s a crazy amount of fun that starts in Ngari Capes Marine Park, and it’s available for kids aged seven and older, although conditions and ability will determine suitability. 

Don’t forget… to stop between jumps to soak in the views of the stunning aqua bays and rugged coastline.
Make it happen… by giving Margaret River Adventure Co. a call if you have any concerns or questions. The company’s owner, Cam O’Beirne has more than 30 years of experience in aquatic rescue, so he knows what he’s doing.

Rock climbing in NSW

Not every adventure needs to be outdoors. Sometimes the weather doesn’t cooperate, while other times you simply need “training”. That’s when indoor rock climbing is a handy option to test the mind and the body. For regular climbers, gyms may be nothing more than a necessity, but for beginners and families, they make for great mini adventures where mum or dad can bond with their child. Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym is huge, with plenty of walls and obstacles for all levels, as well as a bouldering area. You can hire harnesses, chalk bags and shoes too, meaning you can try the sport without having to commit to the gear.

Don’t forget… if you’re taking a young child and you’re the only adult, they won’t be able to belay you. Go with friends so the adults get to climb too. 
Make it happen… by heading there whenever the weather is wet. You can also book your child into a full-day ROCKCAMP during school holidays. That sure beats soccer, I say.

The post Short and sweet: Micro adventures for kids appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Choose your kayak style

First let’s explore the two primary types: sit-on-top and sit-in kayaks. Sit-ons are fantastically user-friendly, ideal for leisurely paddling and warm conditions, offering easy re-entry from the water. Sit-in kayaks on the other hand enclose your lower body within the kayak beneath a ‘skirt’, which is great for staying dry and warm in cooler weather. This mode of paddling also provides better control and efficiency.

Another option are surf skis, which are like the road bikes of the sea – fast, agile, and perfect for surfing waves and getting in a great workout, although not as suitable for longer trips.

Kayak length

The length of your kayak significantly influences its handling and speed. Longer kayaks glide through the water effortlessly, ideal for open-water expeditions, offering speed and efficiency. In contrast, shorter kayaks excel in agility, perfect for navigating the intricate turns of rivers or coastal areas. It’s like choosing between a sports car and a sedan – both have their unique advantages tailored to different driving (or paddling) experiences.

Material matters

Choosing your kayak involves a triangular balance: cost, durability, and weight. Typically, you can pick two. Wooden kayaks radiate timeless charm but require consistent upkeep. Fibreglass models are sleek and lighter, yet they can be vulnerable to impacts. Carbon kayaks are all about high performance, being both light and strong, albeit at a higher price.

Plastic kayaks are the durable workhorses, tough and budget-friendly, though heavier. Then there’s thermoformed plastic, offering a middle ground with its blend of lightness and strength, albeit with repair challenges.

Hull shape and stability

The hull’s design is key to how the kayak performs on the water. Flat-bottomed hulls are generally more stable and suitable for beginners or calm conditions, while rounded or V-shaped hulls cater to those seeking speed and agility, often preferred by the more adventurous or experienced paddlers.

Cockpit comfort and kayak control

The cockpit design is crucial for comfort and effective control. Adjustable seating, footpegs, and thigh braces can greatly enhance your connection to the kayak, aiding in manoeuvrability and comfort, particularly over longer distances. When choosing a kayak, it doesn’t hurt to sit inside and ‘try it on’ to see if the cockpit is comfy for your build and preferences.

Storage and portability

Kayaks also vary in their storage solutions and portability. If you’re planning longer excursions, look for models with ample storage space, like secure hatches and deck rigging. Portability is another consideration, especially if you have limited storage space or prefer a kayak that’s easy to transport.

Rudder or keg? Navigating your choices

The decision between a rudder or skeg can play a crucial role in maintaining your course, especially in challenging conditions like strong winds or currents. 

Skegs – typically a drop-down fin – help in tracking straight but don’t contribute to steering. For that reason, they are often favoured by purists who want to feel more in harmony with the boat. They do require more skill and expertise to master.

A rudder offers a more user-friendly approach to steering. Controlled via foot pedals, the rudder allows paddlers to adjust their course without sacrificing the use of their hands – great for things like taking photos. With a rudder, you can effortlessly manoeuvre your kayak while maintaining stability, even coming to a complete stop if needed. (And in a group setting, rudders are great – opening opportunities for group paddling, even ‘sailing’).

Toby Story is the Managing Director and Lead Guide at Southern Sea Ventures, which offers fully equipped, guided sea kayaking adventures around the world.

The post Paddle Pulse: The science of kayak design appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Such is the latter for Dylan Boag and Lara Hindmarsh. This dynamic duo run Woebegone Freedive in Jervis Bay, on the New South Wales Shoalhaven Coast (read about our big Shoalhaven adventure here). Both are dedicated to sharing their passion for the underwater world there – an ocean of dolphins and fur seals, whales and sharks, sea caves and towering cliffs, and some of the whitest sands and picture-postcard turquoise seas you’ll ever spy. And so it was, on a mid-winter’s day, in water that had only hit teenage-temperatures for weeks, that I joined them.

According to Dylan, there are many different disciplines in the freediving world and many reasons why people do it. For example, Static Apnea is a discipline practised in the pool where someone holds their breath and floats face down on the surface of the water much like a jellyfish under the watchful eye of their buddy with the aim to hold their breath for as much time as possible. Another discipline called Free Immersion is generally practised in the ocean. The diver pulls themselves down a weighted line aiming for depth. There is Dynamic No Fins, which is distance in the pool using a modified version of breast stroke without the use of fins. And then there are some more extreme versions, like No Limits or ice diving. These test and expand the capabilities of the human body and mind (if you’re interested, watch the documentary Hold Your Breath: The Ice Dive, which delves into this world).

Dylan, who has been freediving for “a short time of 10 years” says he also “refers to freediving as glorified snorkelling, though I’m sure what the majority of freedivers would think about that”.

“Freediving, to me, is intensely personal and a lifelong journey, and I’m at the stage where I really enjoy sharing knowledge and teaching others. More so than going diving for my own leisure.”

What is freediving?

“I would simply define freediving as the act of holding your breath for as long as comfortable or diving as deep as you can below the surface of the ocean,” Dylan says.

“It differs from snorkelling in the fact that dives are generally much deeper, with set protocols for preparation and safety. In order to dive deep, you must learn how to breath efficiently and how to prepare your mind for the dive or breath-hold using different mental and visualisation techniques.

“Not many people realise that when you learn to freedive you are actually learning a form of mental training or mind control. Freediving is intensely psychological. When you hold your breath or you aren’t able to breath at any given moment, many emotions and anxieties are brought to the surface. I have finished a dive in tears or intensely angry with no reason to be. I believe that it has something to do with denying your body’s primal urge to breath. In the industry we say that freediving is 95 per cent mental and only 5 per cent physical. So when you hold your breath and dive below the surface of the ocean you are actually diving into your mind and psyche.

“This idea, then, leads me to my deeper and more complex definition of freediving. It’s the engaging of your five senses, being intensely aware of everything around you. Filling up your lungs and diving below the surface or holding your breath, uncoupling the senses and delving within the body and mind. Being totally present in the moment. In ‘the zone’ as it’s referred to in sport psychology.

 “The ultimate aim of freediving is to be completely relaxed. Relaxed in the mind, body and breath. Relaxed even though you may be floating around in deep choppy and murky water. Your outside environment cannot disturb your inner peace.”

The gear you need

In its simplest form, no equipment is required. Indigenous cultures have been diving without equipment for millennia. There is also an entire discipline of freediving devoted to not wearing fins or a mask. According to Dylan there’s nothing more satisfying then diving down past the scuba divers at 20m without fins!

“That being said, a decent mask and snorkel is a must,” he says. “In a mask you want to look for a comfortable soft silicon that seals around your eyes and nose with no leaks. You can test this by holding the mask up to your face and breathing in through your nose. The mask should sit firmly on your face. Next you want to ensure that the mask is low volume with minimal air space between your eyes and the glass. This is because when you dive down, as the pressure builds, the air compresses which means that you will periodically have to add air into the mask by blowing out through your nose. The smaller the volume, the less air you will need to add. The snorkel should be simple, with no bells and whistles, but also a soft and bendy material.

“Fins for freediving are generally longer than scuba or snorkelling. They also have a full foot pocket. This allows for greater efficiency and power, which in turn saves energy meaning longer bottom time. Entry level fins are made from plastic and can be quite rigid. This is fine for beginners. As you learn to dive deeper you can progress to fibreglass or carbon-fibre fins with more flex.

“Depending on the water temperature a wetsuit is vital. Water below 28ºC you will need to consider a wetsuit as your body loses heat faster than in air. You are also spending considerable time floating in stillness. Under 20ºC I would consider a 5mm suit and a hood as you lose about 20 per cent of your body heat through your head. I personally don’t wear gloves or booties as having cold feet isn’t detrimental to your health and I like to be able to feel the line in my fingers and feel the water temperature. Freedivers generally wear an open cell neoprene suit that is two pieces, pants and top. Open cell sticks to your skin so needs to be lubricated when putting on. The upside of this is that they are much warmer than your standard surf or scuba suit. Having them in two pieces allows for more manoeuvrability.

“A weight belt with lead weights is needed to counteract the buoyancy of your suit and your full lungs. The amount of weight you need depends on each person and their equipment, but you should still be able to float comfortably on the surface. I generally weight myself so that I’m ‘neutrally’ buoyant at a 10m depth. This means that I neither float or sink, I am suspended weightless in the water column.”

Beginner basics

Beginners should take a slow approach and make sure every dive is a positive one. The number one rule is to never dive alone. It’s the perfect activity to do with someone else – a spouse or friend – find someone to train with and enrol in a beginner course.

It’s essential to learn all the fundamentals from an experienced diver from the beginning and move on from there with a solid base. “I watched a lot of out-dated YouTube videos and learned some bad habits, which had to be undone,” Dylan says. “Incorrect information can be fatal, and the sport is constantly evolving when new research comes to light.

“You don’t need to be an experienced water person to do a freediver course. All you need is the willingness to learn and the willingness to put yourself out of your comfort zone.

“It’s important to remember that the aim of freediving is to be relaxed. So relaxed you could fall asleep. It’s a lifelong journey that can’t be rushed, so slow down and enjoy the ride. Everyone is at different levels of confidence and ability in the water and will progress at different speeds. It’s a very personal journey so don’t be discouraged if others are progressing faster.

“I like to treat every dive or snorkel as a meditation practise. My aim is to get out and enjoy nature. It’s important to approach each dive with that mindset. Be positive and don’t try to gain anything or push yourself too hard. Nature will reward you with this approach. Learning the basic physics and physiology behind breath-hold diving will help to explain what is happening to your body when you hold your breath. 

Topics you should touch on include:

• Pressure and Boyle’s law

• Buoyancy and Archimides Principle

• The relationship between oxygen and carbon dioxide during a breath hold

• The effects of breath holding

• Short- and long-term adaptations of the body.

“A particularly fascinating short-term adaptation of the human body is the Mammalian Dive Response (MDR). It is left over from our amphibious ancestors millions of years ago when they crawled out of the sea. It engages when the face is immersed in water and you hold your breath. When the MDR engages, your heart rate slows dramatically, blood moves to your organs and brain. Your lungs also swell with blood to prevent them from imploding under pressure. It also makes you want to pee. As you become more aware of your body, you can feel your MDR engaging. We share this response with all marine mammals such as seals, whales and dolphins. This leads me to believe that we are built to freedive. 

Equalisation is probably the hardest skill for beginner divers to learn. “I find it’s the thing that holds most people back from achieving the 12m depth requirement on the course. It usually takes a few training sessions to learn the mechanics behind equalisation. So essentially when you dive down, the air spaces in your body are compressing. The ears (more specifically the middle ear) are one of the main spaces that need to be equalised. As you descend down the increasing pressure of the water pushes inward on your ear drum. When you equalise you are counteracting this pressure by pushing air from your lungs or mouth into your middle ear. Middle ear and sinus injuries called Barotraumas are the most common freediving injury.”

In the classroom

During a classroom session with an instructor you 

will cover:

• Basics of breathing and relaxation

• Basics of Frenzel equalisation

• Visualisation techniques

• Dangers of hyperventilation

• Trauma from hypoxia

• Buddy procedures

• Rescue procedures.

After theory and a classroom session, the next stage is to take what you have learned to the pool and put it into practise. The pool is the perfect place to build confidence; learn how your body reacts to a breath-hold and work on your finning, buddy and rescue techniques. The aim in the pool is to learn the process of the breath-hold and learn to relax throughout the entire experience.

The challenge is taking that relaxation to the open water. The aim is to slowly build up to a comfortable 12m dive. In the open-water session it’s normal to practise three disciplines of freediving:

• Free immersion

• Constant with and without fins

You will also learn how to duck dive efficiently and rescue a blacked-out diver.

“I personally have a pass rate of 50 per cent with my students in the two days. The reason being is that the course is very challenging and requires quite a lot of training. You should not at all be discouraged if you don’t pass in the two days. Remember that freediving is a life-long journey and depth doesn’t really matter. Connecting with nature and your breath is the objective.”

The dangers of freediving

“Freediving has a reputation for being dangerous. But I honestly believe if you follow a few golden rules it is very safe. Much safer than scuba diving. The no-pain no-gain philosophy popular in gym and sporting culture has no place in freediving, which is another reason I am a big fan. Freediving also has no place for big egos, and generally speaking, those with big egos do not last long in the sport. As it is mental training, the approach should be slow, gradual and within the comfort zone. The subconscious mind is very powerful; a negative experience can imprint on the subconscious, which can lead to an uncontrolled blackout.

“A blackout is your brain’s way of keeping you safe. I like to think of it as standby mode on a computer. The incredible thing with a blackout is that the throat closes to protect the airway and once the face is exposed to air, the brain and body reboots. This is why it’s essential to dive or practise in the pool with a trained buddy. To minimise your chances of a blackout occurring underwater it’s important to never hyperventilate before a dive, and progress slowly and within your comfort zone.”

The benefits of freediving

It’s the ultimate way to explore the ocean and connect with nature. It’s quiet and less intrusive, which results in more relaxing interactions with marine life. When you float silently and slow down your breath, incredible things happen. Dylan says he has had sharks come right up to his fins (maybe not everyone’s idea of rapture!) and Lara has had two humpbacks come up to face her from the depths.

• It’s an activity that you can undertake well into old age. The Ama woman of Korea freedive well into their eighties. Natalia Molchanov, one of the most decorated competitive freedivers, didn’t start competing until she was 45 years old.

• Learning the meditation techniques helps you to deal with stress in day-to-day life as well as learning to cope with fear and anxiety.

• Creating awareness of your breathing and learning to breathe more efficiently.

• Less bulky equipment for travel.

• Freediving training increases your bodies efficiency with oxygen and tolerance of CO2 and lactate build-up, which can give you a competitive advantage in any sport.

• Even if you’re not interested in deep dives, learning how to freedive will vastly improve your snorkelling and confidence in the ocean.

• Gently pushing the boundaries of your comfort zone will reveal things that you never thought you would be capable of. The skills are lying dormant in everyone.

The post Into the deep: The ultimate guide to freediving appeared first on Australian Geographic.

But is it mountain biking?

The presence of e-bikes on the trails has attracted plenty of debate, especially amongst those who see themselves as the hardcore of mountain biking. Common claims are that e-bikes cause more damage to trails, that the influx of new riders to the sport ‘dumbs down’ trails, and that many e-bikers lack basic trail etiquette. We’d argue that most of these claims are at best generalisations, and at worst, elitist. 

But it is easy to see why the divide between e-bikers and analogue riders could arise. In just a few short years, eMTBs have turned the sport on its head. And for some people who’ve been mountain biking for decades perhaps they feel like their sport has been invaded by people who haven’t done the hard yards of sweating up the climbs, earning their turns. 

Either way, it’s a moot point now – the e-bike market is growing at an astounding rate. In Australia, e-bike sales grew by 50% in 2020-21, and globally the e-bike market is expected to grow more than 10% each year and reach over $41 billion USD by 2030. Whatever way you slice it, this can only be a positive outcome; more people riding means more investment in cycling infrastructure, including trails, and a stronger cycling industry. (For our pick of some of Australia’s best MTB destinations, click here.)

So, if you’ve been thinking about diving into the world of eMTB, what do you need to know before making the jump?

Lots to choose from, and lots to spend

Firstly, you’ve never been more spoiled for choice. Ever since Specialized threw its considerable budget and marketing nous behind the launch of the ground-breaking Levo eMTB in 2015, every major bike brand has followed suit.  Most brands now offer a range of eMTBs to suit different riding styles. Even the most hardcore mountain bike brands with decades of racing heritage – such as Yeti Cycles and Santa Cruz Bicycles – are now producing eMTBs worthy of their illustrious headtube badge. 

Just like in the realm of conventional bikes, you’ve got plenty of choices to make about suspension travel, bike geometry and riding style (for our guide to all things MTB, click here). There are now eMTBs covering every facet of the mountain bike spectrum, from cross-country focused hardtails, right through to long-travel freeride machines. 

While you won’t struggle for options, you might struggle to afford one. eMTBs have become increasingly expensive. The global growth in cycling during the pandemic stretched supply chains to their limit, one upshot being that prices have jumped and jumped again, although this has slowed in the past year as the manufacturing times (and bike availability) have improved. A mid-to-high level dual suspension eMTB from some of the major brands now sits between $8,000 to $10,000, with higher-end models (or those from boutique brands) nudging the $15k mark, making an eMTB an investment that’s out of reach for many.

So, let’s assume you’ve robbed a 7-11 and can now afford an eMTB (or gone down the end of fin year sales route – or opted for the base model). You now need to decide what you’re going to prioritise in your bike’s performance.

What’s powering you?

On a conventional bike, the frame geometry and suspension dominate the way a bike performs. On an eMTB, you’ve got to factor the motor into the mix as well – the way power is delivered has a huge bearing on how the bike handles, particularly when climbing. 

At one end of the spectrum, you’ve got a motor like the Specialized SL 1.1 which offers a maximum output of 240 Watts and relatively modest 35Nm of torque. At the opposite extreme, you’ll find something like the Dyname 4.0 motor employed by Rocky Mountain Bicycles in its Powerplay range of eMTBs. That motor pumps out 770 Watts and a huge 108Nm and will keep you accelerating up the steepest inclines. It’s horses for courses, but keep in mind you can always dial back the level of assistance from a more powerful motor, but you can’t magically add more grunt to a motor with less power.

Pretty quickly, some big names have come to dominate the eMTB motor market. The two largest players are Bosch and Shimano, who sell their motor and display systems to most of the major bike brands. Yamaha are also in the mix, finding a home with Giant bikes. Specialized has developed its own motor systems, as well as working with Brose, while several other brands are also pursuing partnerships with smaller motor manufacturers. 

All these motors offer a range of different output levels you can toggle between on the fly, allowing you to scale back the power when you don’t need it and extend battery range. And most motors now offer some level of customisation, generally via an app, to adjust how much power is delivered in each output mode. This level of adjustment might go over your head initially, but it can be incredibly useful for dialling in the right amount of power for your local rides while maximising
battery life. 

Full fat, or lite eMTB?

In the past couple of years, two schools of eMTB have emerged. On one hand you’ve got your ‘full fat’ eMTBs, which prioritise battery capacity and motor power but tend to be heavier and take a lot more physical input from the rider to replicate the type of handling you get from a conventional bike. Then there’s a new generation of light(ish)weight, lower-powered eMTBs, such as the Specialized Levo SL or the Orbea Rise. These bikes combine smaller batteries and motors to offer a riding experience that is more like a conventional bike, especially when descending. 

What’s better? Well, that depends on what you’re looking for out of your ride. If exploring steep and rugged terrain for hours on end and flying up the climbs is your priority, then opting for bike with huge battery capacity and lots of torque will leave you happy. Ride all day, bomb down whatever comes your way and climb up to do it all again. Just accept that the extra heft will be noticeable, bringing with it a different way of riding. No matter how good the bike’s geometry or suspension, the extra weight means an eMTB requires more effort to get it off the ground, feeling less nimble.

On the flipside, many people aren’t looking for a ride that’s so dominated by the bike’s motor – they simply want a bit of assistance on the climbs but still want to feel the burn. Or maybe they don’t want to sacrifice the type of handling they’re used to from a conventional mountain bike. That’s where these lighter weight eMTBs shine, bringing enough power to take the sting out of the ups, and only adding a few kilos over a normal bike. Off the shelf, these ‘lite’ eMTBs don’t offer huge battery life, but range extender batteries are generally available allowing you to add some extra capacity for those longer adventures. 

Some practical considerations

For some riders, buying an eMTB allows them to ride with people who might be much fitter. The flipside is that riding an eMTB can be a bit lonely too; unless you’ve got other eMTB riders to pedal with, you might find yourself waiting at the top of a lot of climbs while your buddies on conventional bikes slog their way up. Fortunately, they’ll probably all go buy eMTBs too once they see how much fun you’re having.

When you’re picking your eMTB, don’t get carried away. Because you’ve got a motor helping you get back up the climbs, there’s always a temptation to opt for a bike with gobs of forgiving suspension. But stay calm – a 170mm-travel eMTB might sound like fun, but if your trails are too mellow to warrant that much suspension, you’re going to end up with a soggy, lethargic ride. Pick the bike that suits 90 per cent of the riding you do.

You’ll also need to think about transport, storage and charging your bike. With most eMTBs clocking in around (or above) the 23kg mark, putting your bike on roof racks is not an option unless you want weekly trips to the chiropractor. Yakima has a few e-bike-specific bike carrier options, and bike racks from brands such as Shingleback Off Road are well worth a look for eMTB transportation. Having a place to store your eMTB that has power available is handy too, so you can charge your bike easily without having to remove the battery (a process that often involves tools). 

While you’re pondering your new eMTB purchase, or trying to convince your partner that it’s justifiable, it’s worth noting that an eMTB also makes a fantastic commuter bike – all that power makes for an effortless pedal on the tarmac to work. If you’re keen, you can even grab a second set of wheels with slick tyres for the road commute, then pop your knobby tyres back on for slaying trails on the weekend.

E-specific equipment

As the handling and descending performance of eMTBs has evolved, more aggressive riders have taken to eMTB, and the equipment is being pushed much harder now. The pinnacle of this is EWS-E, an eMTB-only race series that has been attracting some of the sport’s biggest names including a raft of former World Champion downhill racers. 

The racing mixes incredibly technical climbing stages with equally terrifying timed descents. It’s a real proving ground for eMTB equipment, with rider feedback from the EWS-E helping shape bike design. The heavier weights of eMTBs, plus the ability to ride them very hard all the time, both up- and downhill, has led to e-specific components being developed. Suspension forks are being beefed up for eMTB use, with more material in the crown and legs, while brakes and brake rotors are upsized, and tyre technologies are evolving to deliver the support, durability and puncture resistance needed to handle hard eMTB riding.

So, do I plug in?

The past half dozen years has seen incredible development in the eMTB space. It’s no surprise really – eMTB represents an opportunity to attract a whole new legion of riders into the sport and brands have been working like mad to get ahead of the competition. So, is now the time to make the leap? Or is bike technology going to continue to evolve so fast that your new eMTB will look and feel very dated in a year’s time? 

Current prices aside, we think things have stabilised to the point where you will not regret jumping into the eMTB world. Motor designs are reliable, powerful and tuneable; bike geometries have largely struck a great balance of climbing and descending abilities; battery capacity is through the roof, making all-day rides possible; bike aesthetics are clean and less bulky.

There’s a reason why people on eMTBs are usually smiling. Pull the trigger on an eMTB and enjoy your new riding horizons, we don’t think you’ll regret it. 

The post Wheels of power: How the e-mountain bike is bringing more riders to the trails appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Oriental orienteering and Bjorn again genius

The Chinese invented the technology that underpins the magnetic compass as long ago as 200 BC, although back then it was used as a way of divining godly direction, rather than a tool for travelling. It took another thousand years before they began employing magnetism in geographical navigation, and it wasn’t until the 13th century that compasses first appeared in the West.

Various designs have come and gone since then, but the most enduring incarnation of the modern magnetic compass was invented in Sweden. In 1932, Björn Kjellström, along with his two brothers Alvar and Alvid, and a machinist called Gunnar Tillander, developed the protractor-style compass set onto a transparent baseplate that’s instantly familiar to bushwalkers, orienteers and scouts today.

After WWII, Kjellström moved to the US, founded the company Silva around his compass, published a book (Be Expert With Map and Compass) and launched an empire. Silva still produces the most popular orienteering compasses, although companies such as Suunto are also hugely popular.

But, in an age of smartphone apps and GPS watches, is it really still necessary to pack an old-school magnetic compass? For its lack of dependence on battery power and signal reception, the answer is emphatic: yes.

GPS is a great tool, and excellent for recording routes, but when you need something failsafe to get out of strife, a magnetic compass is your best mate. It’s also the lightest and cheapest option for basic navigation, and there’s simply no substitute for using a map and compass to gain a good appreciation of where you are, and where you’re heading, while out in the wilds.

Learning the hard way

A report by the Maine Game Warden Service in the USA tells a tragic tale of a trekker on the Appalachian Trail. In 2013, 66-year-old walker Geraldine Largay went missing while doing the 3541km long-distance walk. Over two years later, when her remains were eventually discovered along with heartrending handwritten notes about her experience, it transpired that she’d briefly left the path to go to the toilet and, unable to find her way back to the track, spent 26 days hopelessly lost and alone before dying of starvation and exposure. The case file built during Largay’s disappearance revealed that she’d left her SPOT GPS device behind in a motel, and she “has compass but does not or won’t use it.”

Even rudimentary knowledge of how to operate one simple piece of kit could have averted that awful scenario, shades of which will be all too familiar to many – me included. I once nearly died while doing Australia’s most popular multiday walk. Outside of winter, it’s hard to go wrong on Tasmania’s busy Overland Track between Cradle Valley and Lake St Clair. Once you stray off the path, though, things can go pear-shaped in dramatic – and occasionally deadly – fashion.

Hiking the Overland on my own, I decided to spend a day doing a side trip into a place called the Labyrinth (spot the clue in the name suggesting it might not be the easiest place to navigate), and wandered off without map or compass. By dusk, when I’d already spent five hours utterly lost and completely unable to find the path that had brought me into the Minotaur’s den, things were looking grim. Water and food all gone, I was ridiculously underdressed for a night out in the bush, and hadn’t seen sight nor sound of another human all day.

Eventually I clumsily free-climbed down a rock face, spied a peak that looked like it could be the Acropolis (a mountain I’d previously noted on a map as being near the hut) and followed a stream towards it. Staggeringly, this led to a path, which took me to the hut. I was very lucky. A young woman disappeared in the exact same area a few months later, and so far – more than 20 years later – her body has never been found.
Lesson one: always chuck a compass into your backpack, no matter how minor your mission might seem.
Lesson two: learn how to use it – at least master the basics – and pair it with a good quality topographical map.

Navigation: How does it work?

The kind of compass most commonly used by outdoors people, from army personnel to weekend walkers, is a magnetic compass. This device is defined by its key component: a magnetised needle, which spins freely within a housing, with one end constantly drawn towards Earth’s magnetic north pole. The north-facing half of the needle is usually red, inscribed with an ‘N’ and has a luminous strip for navigating in the dark.

A classic protractor-style compass is comprised of two elements: the ‘baseplate’, which has various features handy for map reading and wayfinding, and the ‘housing’, where all the technical magic happens. The baseplate should be made from clear plastic, so you can clearly see the map through it, and it will have a ‘Direction of Travel Arrow’ at the top, complete with a luminous strip. Baseplates are typically inscribed with standard ruler measurements (mm) plus scale converters along the sides (showing, for example, that on a 1:50,000 map, 1cm represents 500m on the ground). Other common features include a ‘Magnifying Lens’, for looking at maps in detail, and ‘Aid Lines’ to help you set your map or take a bearing. Mounted on the baseplate is the housing, where the magnetised needle lives. The housing on a good quality magnetic compass will contain a clear fluid, which slightly dampens the movement of the needle, allowing it to settle steadily once it has a fix. This also means you can be in motion – walking, running, cycling, paddling, space hopping, whatever – without the needle skittishly twitching.

As well as containing the floating needle, the compass housing has the cardinal points of the compass rose – N (north), S (south), E (east) and W (west) – printed on a rotating circular bezel, along with graduation markers indicating degrees (0-360).

On the bottom of the housing is an ‘Orienting Arrow’, which moves when the bezel is rotated but permanently points towards ‘N’ (north) on the housing. Running parallel to this you’ll see ‘Orienting Lines’, which also rotate with the bezel and are designed to be aligned with the vertical North-South grid lines on maps. The top half of both the Orienting Arrow and the Orienting Lines are red, to indicate north.

Finally, there’s an ‘Index Line’ (or ‘Dash’), fixed on the top edge of the compass housing, beneath the rotating bezel, which aligns with the direction of travel arrow on the baseplate. This doesn’t move, so it marks the bearing set when the compass housing is rotated.

So, if you stand facing due north – with the Direction of Travel Arrow, the Index Line, the Orienting Arrow and the needle all aligned – N will be at 0 degrees on the bezel, E will be at 90, S at 180 and W at 270. If you do this whilst also aligning the orienting lines on the compass housing with the North-South grid lines on your map, then your map will be correctly ‘set’ – i.e., facing the same way as the physical terrain that is in front of you – which is always a very good thing to do at the outset of an adventure, and then again at regular intervals throughout the rest of the trip.

Getting your bearings

One of the most basic compass-reading skills commonly employed by bushwalkers and orienteers is to take and follow a bearing. This can be done in three easy steps:

1) On the map, set your compass in a straight line between your current location and the place you want to travel to (e.g., a peak) – making sure the Direction of Travel Arrow is pointing towards your intended destination.

2) Keeping the compass baseplate still, rotate the bezel so the orienting lines on the compass align with the North-South gridlines on your map. The number indicated by the Dash is your bearing.

3) Take the compass off the map, hold it flat in front of your stomach with the direction of travel arrow pointing away from you, and turn until the red end of the floating needle settles exactly in the red orienting arrow on the base of the housing. You are now facing in the direction you want to go in.

Magnetic numbers

So far, so simple, right? Well, here’s where it gets a little complicated. Inconveniently, the Earth’s Magnetic North Pole (which your compass needle is attracted to) is not the same as ‘true north’ (the direction of a meridian of longitude which converges on the North Pole), or Grid North (the direction of a grid line which is parallel to the central meridian on the National Grid).

As a result, to accurately plot a course using a compass, especially over a long distance, you have to apply something called ‘Magnetic Variation’, or ‘Declination’. This angle is stated in the key of all good topographical maps. Simply put, if the map specifies a declination of 10° W, you subtract 10° from your bearing by turning the bezel clockwise; if specifies 10° E, you add 10° to your bearing by turning the bezel anti-clockwise (on good compasses, guides to these measurements can be seen in red on either side of the Orienting Arrow).

Even more annoyingly, the Magnetic North Pole doesn’t stay still – it hops around as the Earth’s magnetic field changes. During the last 100 years, scientists say it has shifted over 1000km towards Siberia, so the more up-to-date your map is, the more accurate the information about Magnetic Variation given will be. The per annum increase should be stated alongside the date of publication and specified declination on a map, so you can figure it out.

Lastly, because the pull direction of Earth’s magnetic field varies according to where you are on the planet (it pulls vertically at the poles, but more horizontally towards the equator), most magnetic compasses are balanced according to the part of the world they are designed to be used in. So, a magnetic compass bought in Australia will not work optimally in the UK.

For years the world has been divided into five balancing zones, with Australia and New Zealand in Zone 5. In recent years, Suunto has reduced this to two zones for its compasses, and you can also get a universal magnetic compass that works well anywhere in the world.

Maps for navigation

In Australia, folding paper topographical maps used by bushwalkers are typically A0 size and come scaled at either 1:25,000 (1cm on the map represents 250m on the ground), 1:50,000 (1cm = 500m) or 1:100,000 (1cm = 1km).

Depending on what you’re trying to do, it’s best to get the biggest scale you can, showing the most detail. However, the wild nature of Australia’s remoter corners means that not all of the country has been mapped to the same precise degree as somewhere like the UK, where Ordnance Survey mapping is generally regarded by experts as the best in the world.

Cartography is improving all the time, however, and a proper topographical bushwalking map should clearly show structures, roads, paths, bridleways, farms and natural features including forests, rivers, lakes, hills and mountains, represented by concentric contour lines revealing specified gains in elevation until you reach the highest point.

Maps in Australia are produced using the Geocentric Datum of Australia (GDA) coordinate system, which uses the Map Grid of Australia 1994 (MGA94), a transverse Mercator projection that conforms to the internationally accepted Universal Transverse Mercator Grid system.
Got that? Good.
This basically describes how the grid system is calculated – older maps may use a superseded system, which only becomes really important if you’re quoting grid references to someone else (they’ll need to know if it’s a different system). For this and other reasons (including topographical changes and increases in declination), its best to use the newest map you can source.

The post Find your way: Outdoor navigation with a map and compass appeared first on Australian Geographic.

For seasoned kayakers, the ins-and-outs of paddling technique can become quite a science, but for those new to the sport, these essentials will be plenty to get you started. 

1. Paddle orientation

Yes, your paddle has a top and a bottom! Make sure the longer edge of the paddle blade is at the top. The concave part should face you. This design helps catch and push more water with each stroke, propelling you efficiently.

2. Hand placement

Grip your paddle lightly with both hands, keeping them slightly wider than shoulder-width apart. Extend your arms out with the paddle horizontally in front of you to check if your grip is even: the centre of the paddle shaft should align with the centre of your chest.

3. Forward stroke basics

Mastering the forward stroke is key to efficient kayaking, and it’s composed of three main phases: the ‘catch’, the ‘power phase’, and the ‘release’.

The Catch: This is the starting point of your stroke. Position the blade near your toes and as you reach forward, plunge the blade fully into the water. Think of it as ‘catching’ the water to prepare for the pull. Try to keep your arms in a fixed position with elbows slightly bent and gain the extra reach by rotating your torso to extend your catch.

The Power Phase: After the catch, it’s time for the main event. Push with your upper hand and pull with your lower hand, engaging your core to harness maximum strength and efficiency. Your torso should rotate with the stroke, reflecting the power generated from your core, not just your arms. This rotation also sets you up for the next stroke and increases your reach.

The Release: As the blade passes your hip, it’s time to smoothly exit the water. This is done by ‘slicing’ the blade out of the water at a slight angle, setting you up for the next catch on the alternate side. The release is as important as the catch because it sets the rhythm for your paddling cadence.

4. Setting up your seating

Making sure you have good connectivity with the kayak is imperative to ensuring you are getting the most out of every stroke. Make sure your seat and foot pedals are adjusted to be firm but not too tight (otherwise you can end up with cramps). You want to have your feet firmly planted on the pedals with your back against the backrest while sitting in an upright position. 

5. Keeping your kayak straight

New paddlers often find their kayak zigzagging. To maintain a straight line, concentrate on making your strokes uniform on both sides, and tread lightly on the rudder. Use landmarks ahead of you to help navigate in a straight line.

6. Rhythmic breathing

Breathing might seem natural, but being conscious of it can improve your paddling and make for a more relaxing experience on the water. Try to synchronise your breaths with your strokes – exhale as you pull the paddle through the water, and inhale as you set up for the next stroke.

7. Take breaks

Paddling can be taxing, especially when you’re new to it. Listen to your body, and take breaks as needed. Use this time to relax your grip, stretch, and enjoy your surroundings. Even between strokes, loosening your grip on the paddle and relaxing your forearms will help reduce the risk of tendonitis.

Remember, practice makes perfect so the best way to learn is to get out on the water and give it a try (to read about the appeal of sea kayaking, see here). Southern Sea Ventures offers plenty of beginner-friendly trips with experienced guides on hand to coach you through technique. You’ll be debating the finer points of paddling technique with the pros in no time!

Toby Story is the Senior Guide and Director at Southern Sea Ventures, which offers guided sea kayaking adventures that cater to paddlers of all levels.

The post Paddle Pulse: 7 top tips for efficient paddling technique appeared first on Australian Geographic.

It might be the sight of a whale’s back breaking through icy Antarctic waters, the deep whoosh as it exhales, and knowing glance from a single eyeball before it disappears again into the deep. Or cheeky penguins sliding off ice floes, diving and playing around the bow of your kayak. On the other side of the globe, there’s the indescribable power and presence that emanates from a majestic polar bear, even (and always!) when spotted over a safe and responsible distance.

Related: Paddle Pulse: Welcome to the amazing world of sea kayaking

And you don’t have to travel to the polar regions to have amazing wildlife experiences like these. In March 2023, we had a lucky group on our Three Capes Paddle in Tasmania encounter a rare loggerhead turtle, who even popped up to wave hello! And of course playful pods of dolphins surfing and diving around you is a paddling experience that stays with you forever.

However, with the privilege of entering the domain of these wild creatures comes the responsibility of doing so with a light touch. Australia has national guidelines when it comes to approaching whales and dolphins on the water, for example, and these include not touching or feeding them, approaching from parallel and slightly to the rear and moving away from the encounter at a slow and steady pace. In addition to adhering to these and other relevant local regulations, our approach to wildlife encounters is informed by decades of experience guiding paddlers all over the world. 

Drawing on those, here are some of our top tips to ensure your wildlife encounter while sea kayaking is safe, responsible and magical.

1. Understand and respect boundaries

Every animal has a comfort zone, and it’s our duty to respect it. Before you head out, familiarise yourself with (and adhere to) local wildlife viewing guidelines for the animals you are likely to encounter wherever you are paddling.

2. Move slowly and predictably

Approach wildlife areas with minimal noise and sudden movements. Use slow, smooth strokes if you’re close to animals and avoid enclosing or cornering them. Animals should always have a clear escape route.

2. The art of passive observation

Resist the urge to interact. Feeding, touching or eliciting a reaction from wildlife can be harmful and is often illegal. The best encounters are passive, where animals choose to approach on their terms or are undisturbed by our presence.

4. Be an informed observer

Learn about the behaviours and signs of distress for the wildlife you might encounter. Agitation in birds, for example, can often be seen through their body language, indicating it’s time to back away.

5. Limit your time

Even when animals appear undisturbed, limit your observation time. Prolonged human presence can stress wildlife, even if there are no immediate signs.

6. Capture memories respectfully

Photographing wildlife is a wonderful way to preserve memories, but always do so responsibly when you’re kayaking. Ideally use zoom lenses to keep a respectful distance and never use flash, which can startle or disorient animals. (Check out more kayak photography tips here.)

7. Safety in numbers

When paddling as a group, stay close together. A cluster of kayaks is less intimidating than a spread-out group, which can be perceived as a threat by some animals.

8. Leave no trace

Keep the habitats you visit pristine by taking all your rubbish with you, avoiding the disruption of vegetation, and ensuring nothing is left behind that could harm the wildlife – so you and future paddlers can enjoy these incredible moments for generations to come!

Toby Story is Senior Guide and Director at Southern Sea Ventures, which offers guided kayaking adventures across the world, from the polar regions to the tropics.

The post Paddle Pulse: Sea kayaking and wildlife encounters appeared first on Australian Geographic.

These days, a traditional canoe is called a C-boat, or a Canadian, and it has an open-top design, unlike a K-boat (a kayak) which has a covered top. Most canoes are around five metres (17 feet) in length and are paddled by one or two canoeists, each with a single-blade paddle.

There are various canoe designs and boats are made from a wide range of materials. The style of canoe you’ll want will depend on what it’s to be used for, where it will be paddled and how many occupants it will carry.

Canoe length

The longer a canoe, for example, the faster it will travel; the more cargo it will carry and the straighter it will track… but it will be less manoeuvrable than a shorter canoe. Likewise, narrow canoes tend to be faster through the water than wide canoes, but less stable. And the more depth a canoe has, the better it will handle waves, although it will be more susceptible to crosswinds.

“In terms of size and capacity I’d say the minimum size for a tandem – for two people – would be around the 15-foot mark,” advises outdoor expert, canoe enthusiast and founder of Valley Outdoors and Paddle & Portage Canoes, Travis Frenay.

“One of the more popular tandem canoes that I offer is 18-and-a-half-feet long. In Australia we tend to consider a 16-foot canoe large, whereas in other parts of the world the 16-foot boat might almost be considered a cottage craft. In Canada, if you say you want to hire a tripper, they’re going to hand you a 17-foot boat, minimum.”

“Generally speaking, a longer waterline translates directly to speed, so the greater the length the more efficient the boat,” explains Travis, adding that, “efficiency is a term used to describe how well a boat glides through the water, or how much it will hold its speed after you finish paddling.”

As well as greater efficiency, longer boats have greater carrying capacity, so if you’re intention is to head off for a few days camping with the kids, then you’ll need a reasonably long canoe.

Related: Canoeing with the kids

Different materials

“A plastic canoe is likely to feel more stable, while an Ultra-Lite (Kevlar) canoe can feel a little bit sporty, especially when it’s lightly loaded; as it doesn’t draft very much, it doesn’t sit very deep in the water,” explains Travis. “And because an Ultra-Lite has got such a smooth hull it tends to transition pretty quickly from edge to edge, which can be off-putting if you’re not used to it.”

There’s also a significant price difference depending on the material used in a boat’s construction, with plastic boats much more affordable than Kevlar ones – an important consideration when you’re just starting out.

“It’s always advisable to try an entry-level boat first, just to see if canoeing is actually something that you like doing,” says Travis. “There’s always the opportunity to move up later if it is something that you think you’re really going to enjoy.”

Life jackets

“When you have a comfortable life jacket it becomes a part of how you feel when you’re on the water; you don’t even really notice it’s there,” says Travis.

What makes for a comfortable life jacket? Well, you want one that won’t restrict your arm movement, and one that won’t chafe, so you can put your arm across your chest to paddle outside the craft without pinching your bicep against the chest material of the life jacket.

As well as keeping you afloat if you fall into the water, Travis says a life jacket can be a vital tool if you need to self-rescue if your canoe capsizes. “Trying to self-rescue a canoe from the water is nearly impossible without added buoyancy on your body,” he says. “For me, not wearing a life jacket; I wouldn’t even think of it.”

Canoeing clothing

“There’s a Canadian co-instructor I work with who’s from Nova Scotia, and he religiously preaches to people about dressing for the water temperature and not the air temperature,” says Travis.

Why? Well, it might be a balmy 20 degrees Celsius when you’re sitting in the boat, but if you fall into the drink the temperature can be in the single digits, particularly in inland rivers and lakes.

“If you were to fall in, the question is: how long will you last in the water before you become incapacitated, and so the general rule of thumb is dress to the water temperature, not the air temperature,” reiterates Travis.

If the air temperature is warm and the water temperature is cold, you should wear synthetic or wool layers (not cotton), and if the risk of capsize is high, wear dry pants, a dry jacket, and potentially even a dry suit, and, says Travis, “at least a paddling cag [jacket] with multiple layers underneath to keep your core warm and dry.”

First Aid kit

“Depending on how remote you’re going, it might be worth having some items in your kit that can be used for field repair of your equipment should you need it,” he advises. “This could be a small fibreglass resin repair kit, and certainly duct tape is advisable, and there’s a new wonder material called G/Flex epoxy, which is quite usable. If you have a plastic polyethylene canoe you might want to have a piece of plastic strip for a welding piece if you have a split or a crack, and you can use your camp stove to perform an in-field repair that way… those items would probably get you out of most situations.”

Canoeing communications

“If mobile reception is going to be limited, or even intermittent, then it’s certainly advisable to have something like a PLB [Personal Locator Beacon] or a Garmin InReach or a Spot [satellite messengers], and a reliable contact at the other end to receive those messages,” says Travis.

Of course, you’re going to need to make sure that any electronic equipment like this is safely stowed and kept dry, so thoughtful packing is of paramount importance.

Packing the canoe

Another affordable option is to line a hiking backpack with two heavy duty, durable plastic bags, twist-shut the tops and tuck them away. This means the whole pack can fall in the water, yet it will still float and it will keep everything dry.

And making sure that everything floats is vitally important.

“The rule we always say is “everything needs to be packed so it will float and if it doesn’t float – like a toilet shovel – then strap it to something that does,” says Travis. “So you can take a cast-iron camp oven on a canoe trip, but it’s got to be strapped to a backpack that will float. And often that floating gear, like a buoyant backpack, can become a rescue implement in the event of a capsize and a self-rescue.”

Self-rescue

If you’re going to paddle solo, or even in a group, it’s important that you learn how to self-rescue in the event of a capsize.

“With a kayak you can do a wet re-entry and bilge pump out the cockpit, which is a pretty small volume area, but with a canoe, you can be there in the water for half an hour trying to bucket-bail it yourself,” warns Travis.

“There are some techniques where, from the water, you can actually lift the canoe most of the way out and, in a quick motion, sort of throw it. And there are times when I have done this where the boat ends up 100 per cent empty, and there’s not another canoe in sight. It’s a pretty comforting feeling to know that you can do that, because if you know you can do it, then you don’t worry about paddling in the middle of a lake in questionable conditions with no one else around.”

Learning to paddle

“If you’re open to the idea, and you have the funds to do it, going on a guided trip is definitely worthwhile,” says Travis, adding that on one guided trip you can learn as much about canoeing in a day as you would out by yourself on 10 trips. (See Travis’s expert advice on canoeing essentials here.)

“Content-wise, on a guided trip, you’ll learn everything from campsite selection and setting it up appropriately, how to cook in the outdoors, how to clean things properly, how to handle packing your boat for a successful journey, how to steer… all those things are covered on a guided trip.”

Travis says there are also several companies that offer paddling tuition where you can learn about paddling techniques and dealing with different conditions such as crosswinds, waves and rapids. “There are a lot of product companies that offer tuition,” he says. “I offer tuition through our business [Paddle & Portage Canoes]… and while canoe tuition doesn’t seem to be as popular as kayaking tuition, you can still find it if you look around.”

What exactly will you learn on a canoeing course? Travis says the tuition he provides is based on a tried and true formula. “Essentially, it’s modelled on what we do when I’m training for Paddle Australia (formerly Australian Canoeing), or when I’m teaching for TAFE,” he says. “The way in which we teach and the progression of skills that we follow is fairly standard, and it’s basically learning how to start, how to get dressed, how to fit the equipment, how to choose it and then how to get in the boat and how to make it go and how to be effective.”

Canoeing community

“It’s very helpful to join clubs, or networks of other knowledgeable paddlers, and just pick their brains,” he says. “There’s no pride in pretending you know everything and not seeking information… and while paddling clubs often have a membership fee, with that comes organised trips and insurance and things like that, and access to equipment.”

Of course, social media has brought canoeists closer together. “I started a page on Facebook called Canoeing Australia, which is just basically for anyone who wants to paddle a canoe, and they can just share pictures, ask questions, hire equipment, buy equipment, whatever… it’s been used well lately with people saying, “Hey, I’m going to southeast Queensland. Where’s good to paddle? Does anyone want to paddle with me?” and it is working.”

Canoeing equals family fun

One of the great things about canoeing, compared to kayaking, is that it’s more suitable for young families who like to experience the wonders of the outdoors together.

“My family canoe takes the four of us plus my dog, and we can load it and paddle for six days unsupported, without any help from anybody,” says Travis. “Or I could dump the whole family on the bank and take the boat paddling myself and that would be just as enjoyable, with the same craft. I don’t know any kayak that I can do that with… not even close.”

“So many people look at canoeing and they scratch their head and ask “Why? Why would you do that?” but it’s one of those things that you have to try out to understand. There’s a reason that canoes have stood the test of time, and that so many people are so rabidly obsessed with them. I’ve spent my whole life trying to articulate why I love canoes so much, and even now I still can’t. All I can do is just say, “try it yourself” and hopefully you’ll understand.”

The post Get the drift: The ultimate guide to canoeing appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Kayaking is a great way for adventurous families to spend time outside being active together, mastering a new skill and getting up close and personal with nature (See here, for more on kayaking’s huge appeal). However, like any activity, adding kids to the equation brings a few extra considerations to make sure everyone has a fun and safe experience. 

To that end, here are my top tips for your next kayaking adventure with the whole family:

1. Age is just a number

Wondering when’s the right time to introduce your kids to kayaking? It really depends. Consider their confidence in the water, your own kayaking savvy, the location, weather conditions, and the gear you have. At Southern Sea Ventures, we usually set the bar at 12 for our guided trips, but we’ve also got family-friendly outings that welcome kids as young as 8.

2. Keep it short and sweet

I’ve found kids tend to hit the restlessness wall after about 20-30 minutes, so plan for shorter paddles with plenty of breaks. Playing games on a secluded beach after a little paddle makes the whole experience more fun and about more than just paddling.

3. Double the fun with double kayaks

Opting for a double kayak is a good choice for families – and it’s the set-up of choice on all our guided adventures. This is not only best for stability, but also fosters teamwork and bonding as you paddle together. Win-win!

4. Ensure safety gear is a snug fit

It can be a bit more effort to source gear that fits the littlest adventurers in your crew – but doing so is critical, not just for their safety but also comfort. For the really little ones, look for a PFD (personal flotation device) with a strap between the legs to keep it from floating over their heads. Safety gear is included on all Southern Sea Ventures kayaking trips, and we always ensure the right fit for all our guests.

5. Snack and sip on the go

There’s nothing like paddling to build up an appetite or thirst, so make sure you have plenty of snacks and water at hand for your pint-sized paddlers. Zip-lock bags are great for waterproof and easy to access hunger-busters. Packing lunch and finding somewhere special to enjoy it is also a great way to break up a kayak outing and refuel. And don’t forget to include a few special treats to keep up morale and motivation!

6. Embrace nature’s classroom

Paddling is more than just fun and exercise, it’s a wonderful way to foster a love of nature and being outdoors that will hopefully last a lifetime. Encourage your kids to spot and identify marine life and birds during their adventure – this is a great way to nurture their curiosity and keep them entertained. 

7. Keep calm and carry on

Stick to sheltered bays that offer calm waters, making the experience safer and more enjoyable for everyone. Also keep an eye on the weather forecast and be prepared to adjust your plans if necessary. That’s sound advice on any kayak adventure, but it’s especially important with younger and less experienced paddlers.

Toby Story is Senior Guide and Director at Southern Sea Ventures, which offers guided kayaking adventures across the world, including dedicated family-friendly departures to Fiji, Tonga and Bruny Island.

The post Paddle Pulse: Kayaking with kids appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Nothing beats getting away for a few nights (or preferably longer) camping with the family. It is a brilliant way to relax – made even more so when you know your accommodation setup for those nights away is reliable and well-proved. For most of us – even in this age of ever-fancier camper-trailers and off-road caravans – this invariably means a tent. Whether you’re a solo traveller, a couple, or you’ve brought your brood with you, there’s a dizzying array of tents on the market, some of which will be perfectly suited to how you wish to travel and explore when in remote areas. It’s just a matter of finding the right one. 

Fit for purpose

Tents come in a variety of configurations, from large dome tents with extra rooms/annexes/sheltered areas, to more traditional pavilion style tents and centre-pole tourers, through to tents that blend the attributes of all these together and add an internal ‘quick setup’ frame (OZtrail’s Fast Frame tent range is an excellent example; the Oztent is another) – and then there’s the plus rooftop tent and its variants (more on these later). Most tents pack into sturdy storage bags, although the Oztent will require packing on your roof, due to its unique design. 

As well as the configuration and the material used in the construction, you need to look at overall build quality, internal height (you don’t want to be walking around inside a tent bent over like Quasimodo – that soon gets tiring) and, most important in Australia, how much ventilation the tent offers. Remember, with the entire family dossing down inside such a small, enclosed space, you’re going to want plenty of fresh air, not only for odour control but to minimise condensation inside the tent. There’s nothing worse than waking up in a wet sleeping bag due to moisture build-up inside the tent.

Look for a tent that has plenty of ventilation via mesh-covered windows on each wall of the tent to promote cross-breezes and check that these windows have a rain awning/cover that means you can keep them open in a rainstorm – always handy as that’s when things get humid inside the shelter. 

Regarding build quality, along with checking that the fabrics used are tough/waterproof enough for Aussie conditions, check whether the tent uses metal (aluminium, steel) poles or fibreglass. If possible, steer clear of a tent with fibreglass poles as they are more prone to splintering and breaking. Good quality materials are a given; ripstop poly/cotton canvas is heavier but more durable than synthetic material. However, poly/cotton canvas does take longer to dry and is heavy when wet, making it difficult to pack up in miserable conditions. Plus, in general, a synthetic material tent is a lot cheaper than the equivalent poly/cotton canvas one and, as mentioned earlier, if you’re only heading out a few times a year, they will last for quite a while. 

Size does matter

What size – or capacity – tent to go for will depend entirely on your needs, i.e., if you’re travelling solo or two-up, you may look at a smaller, lighter, more compact hiking style tent. For most travellers, though, a large tent capable of sheltering the entire family will be the best option. It is here that you need to account for a few things, though, starting with what tent manufacturers claim is the amount of people can fit in a particular model, compared to what you can actually fit in there. By this, we mean that in nearly all cases, a “4-Person” tent is actually more suited to housing three adults in something more resembling space and comfort. To this end, if you are looking for a tent for a family of four, we’d strongly advise going up a ‘size’ to a 6-Person model. That additional space provided, both inside and also in the entrance/vestibule area, can mean the difference between occupants being right on top of each other, squeezed in the tent, and something more spacious and comfortable if/when full. And yeah, it’ll stop more than a few arguments, too.

Related: OZtrail Fast Frame Lumos 6P tent: Tested

Modern tent design means that the weight, size and shape of a 6-Person tent, compared to a 4-Person, is relatively minimal in the bigger scheme of things – always a bonus when it comes to not only fitting folks in easily, but also when packing in your vehicle. Some tents fold up into several smallish bags that can be packed around other gear in your vehicle’s cargo area, while others will pack in size/shape that mean they can only be transported via your roof-racks.

The size of the tent you’ll need will obviously depend on the size of your travel group/family, but you should also consider how long your trips will be; the longer they are, the more gear you’ll likely need to stow in the tent. And this is where the larger tent offers more. Opt for a bigger tent and you will likely score separate ‘rooms’ and also an awning/vestibule area in which you can store essential gear, such as bags, shoes and, of course, the Esky or fridge/freezer. A number of larger family tents offer sectioned areas where a simple zipped ‘wall’ separates the kids’ area from the parents, and often incorporate a central ‘room’ as well – handy if the unfortunate happens and you have to eat inside the tent due to rain. 

The material world

Tents are made using a wide variety of materials; lighter-weight synthetics, such as ripstop nylon and polyester fabrics are popular, as is poly/cotton canvas (a natural material – these will also often feature ripstop technology for additional durability as well). Which material you use will depend on, er, usage. By this we mean that, if your family camping adventures are generally weekends away, or only a few times a year, then the lighter weight (and more compact packed size) of a synthetic-fabric tent may be more suited. As a rule, synthetic-material tents feature a lot lighter (read: thinner) fabric that still offers excellent waterproof levels, at the expense of slightly less ‘breathability’ or airflow through the tent. 

These thinner fabrics are not as tough as the thicker, heavier woven threads of poly/cotton canvas, but do help ensure that mammoth 12-Person tent you just purchased doesn’t require a separate trailer in which to carry it. However, the trade-off on this smaller packed size (and lighter weight) is that synthetic fabrics aren’t as robust when it comes to UV rays from the sun and the Durable Water Repellency (DWR) treatment (designed to keep the rain out, of course) can break down over time with exposure to the sun. If you’re an occasional camper, this won’t matter, but a regular camper needs to add this to the list of pros/cons. Abrasive material, such as sand, sticks, gravel, etc., is also more likely to damage a thin synthetic-fabric tent than a poly/cotton canvas equivalent.

There are numerous nylon/polyester family tents on the market and these generally follow the theme of the more you pay, the better the performance. Besides the lighter weight and the smaller packed size, you will usually gain more features in these tents per their size, from separated rooms with zip doors, through to numerous vents, compared to the heavier canvas touring jobbies. Be sure to check what material has been used for the floor. This can range from a tough tarp-style material, (or heavy-duty vinyl) or just be a thicker version of the outer fly of the tent. And while you’re checking out tent floors – and this applies to all tent types – check to see if the floor has seams and how they are sealed (taped, liquid welded, etc.) Ideally, regardless of material used, we’d recommend a tent with a bathtub-style floor, where stitching joining the floor and upper tent together is above ground level, thus eliminating potential water ingress. 

If you opt for a poly/cotton canvas tent, be prepared for them to take up a significant amount of space when stowed in your vehicle, due to the inherently thicker/denser fabric used. It is this outright toughness of a poly/cotton canvas touring tent that is its big appeal, however, and they will last many years if cared for. Most models use a similar (or same) robust ripstop poly/cotton canvas material that is mildew/rot-resistant, and heavy-duty vinyl (for the floor) as a swag, so they will last many years. This material offers slightly better shade/cooling qualities, but is thicker and, thus, takes up more space when packed than an equivalent synthetic tent. 

One exciting new development in synthetic tents is Oztrail’s BlockOut technology. This is basically a coating on the tent’s outer fly that is claimed to reduce light by “up to 95 per cent”, which sounds great. More appealing is the fact that, by doing this, you should also see a noticeable drop in temperature inside the tent. Oh, and yeah, you will get to sleep in most likely as well, thanks to that darker interior. Plus, tent manufactures have all developed more effective ventilation systems for their family tents that, again, adds comfort for occupants. Winning!

Going big for family tent bonus points

The size of the tent you’ll need for family getaways obviously depends on the size of your clan but be sure to also consider how long your trips will be; the longer they are the more gear you’ll need to stow in the tent.

In its erect state, there’s more to take into consideration than simply the overall size of the tent; does it have separate sleeping quarters, a vestibule/wet area and/or an awning? Features such as these can be extremely important to ensure everyone gets a good night’s sleep, especially if there’s inclement weather.

Although you won’t be lugging it around on your back, weight is still something to consider in a family tent, especially with many national park campsites located away from the vehicle parking area. You’ll not only need to be able to easily put it in (or on top of) your vehicle and then take it out again to manoeuvre it into position, but you’ll need to ensure it doesn’t tip your vehicle’s payload into the red zone. You’d be surprised at just how little weight many modern vehicles can legally carry; your vehicle’s payload can soon be exceeded just by filling it with occupants, fuel, and a moderate amount of luggage. By the time you throw in camping gear such as a fridge/ice box, food, water, some tools and vehicle recovery gear, you can soon be over that safe and legal limit.

Finally, it’s important to examine the size and shape of the tent when it is packed for transporting to make sure it will fit in your vehicle. Some tents fold up into several smallish bags that can be packed around other luggage in your vehicle, while others will pack in such a manner that they can only be transported on your roof racks; what you choose will depend on the size and design of your vehicle and how you intend to transport the tent.

Movin’ it

If your intention is to move camp every night, check out a centre pole (pavilion style) tent or one of the many internal-frame tents on the market. Chances are that features such as an awning and separate wet area/vestibule – or even separate rooms – could be more important to you.

Oztrail’s Fast Frame tent range (from four to 12-person capacities) combines synthetic fabric with a hubbed internal frame for a speedy setup (an OZtrail 10-person tent can be – no lie – up and ready in five to 10 minutes). The Oztent range caters for occupant numbers from two to five and all models use a clever hinged fold-out design that is, literally, 30 seconds to set up. The fast setup times of these tents turns that dreaded morning pack-up into a slightly less laborious chore and the hubs/poles in these tents are all overbuilt to ensure reliability in the field.

A centre-pole tent is nearly as quick; pegging the tent down and then lifting up the support pole in the centre is fast, the only caveat with these types of tent is that you lose that centre space due to the support pole, plus they are narrower at the top due to that pyramid profile. It also means it’s essential that the windows have awnings otherwise you cannot keep them open during rain as, due to the angled slope of the tent wall, the window (and interior of the tent) are exposed directly to the rain.

Choices are endless in the family tent world

Yep, there’s a plethora of tent options out there, which may sound daunting for the buyer but is actually a good thing: there will be, at the least, a few models that are the perfect fit for your requirements.

For adventurous families who are more focused on weekends/week-long escapes into the bush during holiday periods, any/all of the tent styles mentioned here would work. The lighter-weight synthetic models are an appealing cost-effective option that are generally easier to pack in your rig, easier to handle around camp, and are still plenty tough enough for most weather conditions you’ll cop – especially on the eastern seaboard.

And don’t forget, no matter what tent type you end up choosing, they all signify one thing: having a cracking time camping and exploring this mighty country of ours!

The post Gimme shelter: A guide to the family tent appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Snorkelling off the Cocos (Keeling) Islands I’ve swept through schools of humbugs and tropical fish so thick it’s like swimming in an aquarium. I’ve met Nemo in the Great Barrier Reef and swum over coral palettes off Fiji. Even in the seemingly more mundane Sydney Harbour, I’ve seen blue groper, cuttlefish, big wrasse, octopus, wobbegongs, Port Jackson sharks, little diamond-back stingrays, seahorses, weedy seadragons and little things like nudibranchs and crustaceans. “The more you do it, the more you look for those little things,” says Miguel Garrido, a snorkelling, freediving and scuba instructor. “Guides do the sites every day and so they know where all the cool stuff is – and the dangerous spots.”

Miguel recommends that wherever you snorkel, if you are not with a guide, always stay with a buddy in case one of you gets into trouble. If you are freediving (breath-hold diving), the rule is that one stays on the surface while the other dives.

Tips for beginners

Whether you are taking children out snorkelling for the first time, are with people who can’t swim well, or just have always found it hard to stick your head in the water and breathe through not much more than a straw, there are a few things that can make snorkelling easier.

First, try putting a mask and snorkel on in a bath, and see if you can relax and breathe normally with your face in the water. Some people find this very difficult, but with practice (and a lot of self-talk) most people should be able to do this. Then, find a snorkelling site with easy walk-in access that gradually gets deeper. That way first timers can swim out a bit and easily retreat or put their feet down if they are panicking. On the Great Barrier Reef, an island, cay or pontoon snorkelling tour will be much easier than an outer reef experience. A pool noodle or other flotation device can help poor swimmers, giving them something to hang onto.

Slow down! The temptation for many first timers is to zoom around crazily, which can scare off many creatures and you’ll miss smaller, hidden things. Don’t just look straight ahead or down: practise looking to the sides and occasionally behind you as sometimes larger fish will creep up on you.

“A lot of people come and are worried about sharks,” says Jack Glennon, a senior dive instructor. “But they’re amazing creatures and they’re not here to endanger us whatsoever.” On the reef, the most common sharks are blacktip, whitetip and grey reef sharks – and it’s worth remembering that objects appear about one-third larger underwater (so that “2m shark” you were raving about is probably only a bit over a metre).

Buy decent gear. It’s tempting to buy the $40 Kmart snorkelling pack, but if a mask doesn’t fit properly and the crappy rubber seal lets in water, you won’t see much and you won’t have a good experience. Good gear rinsed well after each use can last for many years – my dive mask, snorkel and fins are two decades old and still as useful as the day I bought them.

Snorkels

Expect to pay $40 to $120 for a decent snorkel. Many now have a small reservoir and purge valve at the bottom. This means that if a small amount of water collects inside the snorkel, you can blow it out the bottom without taking your face out of the water. “Shouting ‘two’ always works – if you make the ‘t’ sound it just works better,” Jack says. Other features on snorkels include splash guards to prevent water coming in the top, and auto-closure devices at the top that will prevent water from coming in the snorkel even if you go completely underwater. Most divers and experienced snorkelers don’t want these extra features though, as they are one more thing that could possibly break or fail. 

Miguel says the most common mistake he sees with snorkels is people fitting them to the mask incorrectly. “Snorkels are typically designed to go on the left side, because a diver’s regulator goes on the right, so a lot are angled specifically for that left-hand use,” he says.

Masks

 A few years ago, most divers were taught that you check a mask is a good fit by sticking it on your face and breathing in deeply through your nose. If the mask stuck to your face, then it was a good fit, so the theory went. Not so. “I can get a kid’s mask and breathe in and it’ll stay on my face, so it’s not a good test,” Jack says. 

Instead, tilt your head back and place the mask on your face with no external pressure. You should be able to check (or have a friend look) whether there are large gaps between your face and the mask’s ‘skirt’. Some silicone can be black, which many beginner snorkelers don’t like as it doesn’t let in as much light and they can feel a little claustrophobic. The whole skirt should be made of 100% silicone – not silitex or rubber. Good masks – which will set you back $80–$180 – should have a second, inner seal. 

Masks always need to be defogged, or cleared, before entering the water. Most people just spit in them, rub the spit around the inner lens, and then rinse it out. Dive shops also sell special formulas to do this. However, research by a science class on the Northern Beaches of Sydney has shown that the best anti-fog agent is a few drops of Johnson’s No More Tears Baby Shampoo smeared on the mask’s inside, then rinsed out.

Fins

Long, short, split, hard, soft, full-foot, heel-free – there’s such a huge range of fins out there it can be confusing. Snorkelling-specific fins are usually quite short and inflexible, and not necessarily suitable if you want to use them for diving as well. Freediving fins, however, are generally very stiff and very long. (For our ultimate guide to free diving, see here.)

Full-foot fins start from about $60, but they often suit narrow feet better than broad feet, and can cause rubbing or blisters, particularly if a grain of sand or grit gets in. Open-heel fins require the wearer to also buy neoprene booties, but Miguel says booties are ideal to protect your feet “if you’re snorkelling something like Bare Island, where you’re walking in off the rocks”.

He says one of the most dangerous things he sees is people running with fins on. “Don’t put your fins on until you’re at the water’s edge or, if there are no currents, when you’re actually in the water – go in about waist deep, then rock back and put them on. If you do have to walk around in them, walk backwards.”

Jack says some people have no idea in the water about how to kick. “They almost use their legs like they’re on a bicycle, which causes their fins to just stab in the water,” he says. The best and most economical kicking style for most fins is long, strong and slow kicks from the hips, keeping the legs straight. Split fins can suit more of a faster ‘normal’ kicking style, more akin to freestyle. 

Snorkelling photography

Sick of washed out, blurry blue photos when snorkelling? As red is the first spectrum to be lost when you descend, the easiest and cheapest solution to get better colours is to buy a clip-on red filter. If the water is greenish, you may need a purple filter. 

Next simple solution is to make sure the camera is held steady. “People generally attach them to their head, but there’s so much movement you do with your head,” Miguel says. Instead, he recommends a selfie stick or cradle.

“But the absolute best way to get colour is to bring light down with you – something with a wide beam so it’s not hot-spotting particular areas,” he says.

The post Deep dive: A guide to snorkelling appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The perfect hiking plan

A memorable adventure begins with thorough planning which, itself, can be half the fun. Whether it is a short overnight hike with mates or a longer, more remote hike, knowledge of your destination and what the actual hiking will be like (terrain, weather, water availability, local assistance etc.) is key – and that means research. By ‘research’ we mean all the tiny details that can make or break your experience, and the further away, the more important it is to get the ‘small things’ right.

For that first overnight/weekend foray, take the smart option and choose a destination that is nearby. It’s hard to emphasise just how much is gained by being more familiar with an area’s terrain, access points and distance from/to emergency help if needed. If your planned hike goes through a national park or state forest, contact the local office and ask them for advice – and check out any bushwalking clubs in the region; often, these clubs are a veritable goldmine of on-track info. Don’t be afraid to sound a bit ignorant and ask the ‘basics’ first: best time of year, availability – and location – of water; campsite locations; and the expected time needed to complete the hike. And don’t forget to ask about a map. You don’t want to get lost…

Of all the essential hiking skills, map reading is one of the most important. And by that, we mean the ability to follow and navigate via a paper map and compass. In this day and age of GPS receivers and an ‘app’ for everything, map reading may seem a bit archaic, but it’s anything but. Once learnt, this skillset not only provides you the ability to navigate using a map and compass, but it also aids using modern navigation tools such as a GPS or smartphone app. We’re not against GPS/satellite navigation at all; these technologies are highly advanced and accurate, but there will come a time when your GPS batteries die (and you didn’t pack spares), or you cannot get a satellite signal, and that’s when being able to take a bearing from a map and compass could be a lifesaver. Or at the very least, it can reassure you that you’re on track. During a day walk, basic navigational skills are handy; on a multi-day trek they are essential. Undertaking a bush-navigation course before you step up to a multi-day adventure is even more of an absolute essential.

Sleep easy

As with tents, a three-season sleeping bag, such as the Mountain Designs Travelite 320, is the best all-rounder option and, if you can stump up for it, go for a bag with down fill; down offers the best warmth-for-weight. But there’s a caveat: up until very recently (with the advent of water-repellent down fill) if your down-fill bag got damp through moisture, it would lose its warmth-generating capacity. The latest development in sleeping bag tech has been water-resistant down fill, which is claimed to not absorb as much moisture and is quicker to dry too. It is avaialble in a number of higher-end brands’ sleeping bags and adds more protection alongside the usual Durable Water Repellency (DWR) treatments that are applied to the bag’s outer shell.
Synthetic-fill sleeping bag technology has advanced considerably in the past few years and these bags are worth considering if your budget is a bit tighter. The latest synthetic-fill bags also compress down quite small and, as a bonus, if wet can still offer some warmth. To prevent a wet bag, double-bag it in two dry bags.

Bag shape is a personal choice; if your main concern (besides staying warm) is comfort, go for a relaxed mummy (semi-rectangular) shape, which combines the best of the mummy-shaped bags (less empty space for the body to warm up) with a slightly roomier interior. A bag’s weight should not be your main concern: durability and robust construction are the two big factors after warmth – surprisingly, sleeping bags cop plenty of wear and tear in just a few treks.

As well as a warm sleeping bag, the other big influence on your outdoor nocturnal comfort is the sleeping mat (point of fact: the majority of your body heat dissipates through your mat/sleeping bag into the ground, not through your head). Sleeping mats are available in solid-foam versions or the more common (and more luxurious) air mats, of which there are self-inflating variants or ones that require lung power to inflate. Some sleeping mats include down or synthetic fill, while others rely on ‘heat reflective technology’ (basically a reflective material inside the mat) to bounce your body heat back at you. The mats are available in a number of thicknesses and cuts (narrow, mummy-shaped through to expansive rectangular models) for a variety of purposes. For trekking, we’d opt for a semi-rectangular mat (as per our sleeping bag choice) of 5cm thickness, for that best combo of comfort, warmth, space and packed weight. Sleeping mats are quite robust, but it does pay to shell out for one from a reputable outdoor brand – and also pack a repair kit, for that rare occasion that you might cop a puncture.

The outer shell

A comfortable, tough and breathable outer shell jacket is a must for any hike, whether a short day-walk or a 10-day epic. The outer shell jacket is the barrier between your body and the elements, and should be chosen accordingly. There are myriad waterproof/breathable fabric technologies out there, including The North Face’s FutureLight fabric, all designed to combat the problem of keeping the wearer dry from external moisture, and also internal moisture, the latter caused by body heat and sweat. Breathability and ventilation is key – look for pit-zips and chest pockets that double as ventilation points and also check the high-wear areas of the outer shell – namely the shoulder and elbow areas, as these cop the most abrasion and overall rough treatment during a long hike. Ideally, these areas should either have a more robust material or a tighter/stronger weave to cop with the extra abrasion. The elbows should also be articulated, i.e. allow for free movement without pulling up the hem of the jacket that would otherwise expose your body to cold winds/rain.

Related: The North Face Dryzzle Futurelight jacket: Video Gear Test

In regards to jacket length, go for – at the minimum – hip length, or preferably longer, which is a must for pushing your way through harsh vegetation. The other key to outer shell longevity is care; washing the outer shell with the recommended fabric cleaner and regularly re-treating the DWR coating will ensure years of protective service from your shell.

Hiking: Getting started

As with any outdoor activity, the best way to get fit enough to do it comfortably is to, er, do it – but to start slowly. For those who are tackling their first (recommended) overnight sojourn, the best advice is to take it slow. Compared to a day walk, where you are often pressed for time, on an overnight walk you can plan it so you’re only walking a similar distance to a regular day walk, but in the one direction, allowing time to set up camp etc.

A good way to build up to the first overnighter is to progressively extend your day walks, or devise a walking circuit near home that has undulating terrain; walking on flat, even terrain, such as footpaths, is best avoided. Not only will it not benefit your cardiovascular fitness as much as tackling hills etc., it is not the best surface when wearing hiking boots.

A pair of broken-in hiking boots are essential for multi-day hikes. There are a number of styles/designs out there, but your best off sticking to a reputable brand – Scarpa, La Sportiva, The North Face, Asolo are some examples – and making sure you try as many different pairs on as you can before purchasing. A well-fitted pair of hiking boots will provide years of service – and also assist in lugging those heavier loads. Yep, one of the less-pleasant aspects of multi-day hikes is the fact you will be carrying all your camping gear with you, on your back…

Pack it in

Along with the best shelter, boots and clothing you can afford, a properly fitted backpack is a must-have. Pay close attention to a pack’s harness system – both its adjustability and recommended load weight – and how it fits to your body. Then you’ll need to ensure you can fit all your kit in the pack. For a week-long trek, a 60-plus litre pack is the minimum, with some packs around this capacity offering an extendable section of (usually) 20 litres. Loading your pack will take trial and error but as you gain experience, you will fine-tune your packing system and (hopefully) drop some weight out of your pack.

As well as harness and capacity, pay attention to the material used; heavier canvas is the toughest and will last the longest, but synthetic fabrics have closed the gap significantly in recent years in terms of strength and durability. Regardless of the manufacturer’s claims of waterproofness, make sure you still use a bag liner (preferably a dry bag) to protect all your gear inside your pack. We’d recommend making this a habit; a permanent waterproof liner inside a backpack removes any concerns of wet gear.

Cooking up a storm

For some reason, food always tastes nicer when it’s been cooked in the outdoors. When you’re on a big hike, food choice is important for a few reasons. Firstly, food is heavy, so you really need to balance out the ideal of eating ‘fresh’ every day with perhaps mixing it up a bit and including a few dehydrated meals with the nicer stuff. Dehydrated meals are now at the point where they really are close enough to the ‘real thing’ for most people not to notice, and often simply require boiled water poured into their bag and, minutes later, you’re noshing down with some gourmet dish.

The portable stove choices for hiking are several. There are three main types of hiking stoves – canister (liquid gas) based, liquid fuel based, and natural fuel based – with each having its pros and cons.

Canister stoves can include fuel types such as propane, butane and isobutane (or a mix of these) and are generally very quick to bring water to the boil. Be aware, however, that these fuel types boil at different temperatures, which will be a consideration if you’re heading for colder environs; butane boils at -0.5°C, while propane boils at around -42°C – a big difference. For this stove type, the canister generally screws into the burner itself and they are set up in an upright position. There are also, however, canisters that connect via a hose to the burner, aiding stability and allowing users to invert the canister for better performance in colder conditions.

Liquid-fuel stoves are more ‘cold-friendly’ and (depending on the model) can burn different fuel types, too. These stoves comprise a pump, tank, fuel hose, burner and a valve to control output. Operation is only slightly more complex than the canister stove (basically screw-in and light procedure) whereby you have to use the pump to pressurise the fuel bottle, forcing fuel down the hose to the burner. Fuel used is most commonly Shellite (also known as ‘white gas’), but some units can use kero, diesel or petrol, which is super handy in more remote areas where gas canisters (and even white gas) may not be available.

A less popular stove option is the alcohol-fuelled variants (methylated spirits is the most popular fuel for these). These stoves are very basic in operation but slower than a canister or liquid fuel option.

If you’re a bit hesitant to strike out on your own (with friends) on a self-sufficient adventure, the other option is a guided hike. You do pay for the privilege but guided hikes can be a great way to glean advice and experience from the guides themselves, and fellow hikers in the group. A guided hike takes away many of the concerns beginners may have around the logistics of transport, navigation, food preparation, campsite finding, etc. – especially if the destination is overseas – and can make for an enjoyable experience. Most guides are happy to divulge their trade secrets to those who ask; they are generally very experienced outdoors enthusiasts – and gear fanatics – so asking questions or just observing their equipment – how they set up camp etc. – can then be applied to your own skill set.

Hiking for more than a day can sound like it is a hell of a lot of work – even before you get out there – but it really isn’t. Learning as you go, asking plenty of questions, taking each well-considered step at a time, as your knowledge increases, and tweaking your ‘hike kit’ as you go along, is all part of the fun. Get the basics nailed – navigation, appropriate gear, fitness – and you can apply your skill set to any hike, anywhere in the world.

The post Best foot forward: A guide to hiking appeared first on Australian Geographic.

With years of experience photographing stunning moments on Southern Sea Ventures trips – from the Arctic to Fiji and southern Tasmania – I’ve collected an arsenal of tips. These can help ensure that you seize that shot worthy of mounting on your wall, commemorating your adventure for years to come.

1. Safety first

Protect your gear from the elements with a quality dry bag or hard case. But remember, your safety and the safety of others come before any shot. Even when focused on capturing the perfect moment, always keep your navigation and communication tools within arm’s reach.

2. Read the light

The soft, warm light of ‘the golden hour’ at dawn and dusk creates idyllic images. Overcast days enrich colours, and a clear blue sky offers a contrasting canvas for landscapes or wildlife.

3. Keep it steady

A sturdy kayak is key when photographing. A monopod attached to your kayak can stabilise larger cameras. If you’re shooting on the go, a faster shutter speed will prevent blur. In rough seas, anticipate some post-production work, including cropping and straightening to perfect your shot.

4. Stay composed

Use the rule of thirds when composing your shots for a more balanced, intriguing result. To do this, imagine your image divided into nine equal segments by two vertical and two horizontal lines – on some cameras you can even set up the viewscreen to add these lines for you. 

5. Play with perspective

Kayaking offers unique vantage points. While paddling around Bruny Island, for instance, we often see towering sea cliffs from a unique low-water viewpoint, allowing us to capture their majesty dwarfing the kayaks beneath. Incorporate foreground elements like your kayak’s bow for added depth and context.

6. Tell a story

At its heart, photography is storytelling. Use your camera to capture the essence of your journey beyond the scenery: this could be candid shots of your paddling partner, or remembering to pull out your camera during challenging weather or more adventurous moments!

7. Poles apart

Photographing in the polar regions presents its own unique photography challenges and opportunities. This topic alone could fill an entire post. Key pointers include: adjust your exposure to compensate for all the bright, white surfaces to avoid under-exposing your images; extreme cold can drain batteries and impair camera function – pack a spare battery and keep it warm by storing it close to your body. Insulated camera cases or thermal wraps can also help shield your gear from the cold. Finally, if you’re lucky enough to spot the northern or southern lights, you’ll need a steady surface and a long slow exposure.

8. Going troppo

At the other extreme of kayak photography is the tropics. Here, the golden hour in the early morning and late afternoon is more valuable than ever, helping capture the vibrant colours and lush scenery, and avoiding the harsh midday sun which can wash out images. Protect your gear from heat and humidity – keep silica gel packs in your camera bag to help reduce moisture. Also, give your gear time to adjust to sudden changes in temperature and humidity – such as moving from an air-conditioned room to the outdoors – to prevent lens fogging.

9. Wildlife watching

Opportunities to spot wildlife is one of the best parts of kayaking. When it comes to capturing these moments, patience is key. Take time to observe their behaviours and anticipate actions. While bulky, a telephoto lens is a great option for capturing details from a distance. Remember to respect wildlife and always maintain a safe and ethical distance. Paddling quietly and steadily will increase your chances of getting closer, responsibly.

10. The power of post-processing

Even the best photos can benefit from some fine-tuning. Adjusting brightness, contrast and colour saturation can enhance your images, but moderation is key – ideally, you want to use these tools to bring the image closer to what you experienced on the day. Create copies and don’t save over your originals, then you can play around and have fun! 

11. Picking your gear

Salt water and cameras aren’t best friends. While I’ve trusted my Nikon D610 for stellar shots, even with its basic weather sealing, time has taken its toll. If you’re hesitant about risking high-end equipment, a phone or an Olympus Tough serve well and slips right into a PFD pocket. And remember, even waterproof cameras might not float, so always attach a strap!

Quick tip: Keep a small towel within reach – it cuts down on the salt you transfer to your gear. For those pieces of equipment that can handle it, a rinse after exposure to salt water is wise.

For dynamic shots, especially underwater, GoPros are fantastic. Their extender poles offer elevated angles, letting you be creative without the risky move of standing up in your kayak.

12. The final word on kayak photography

Remember, the magic of kayak photography is all about observing patiently, savouring the moment, and then seizing a slice of it to share with others. With patience, practice and a keen eye, you can immortalise the beauty of your paddling adventures.

Toby Story is Senior Guide and Director at Southern Sea Ventures, which offers guided kayaking adventures across the world, including a photography tuition package on their Svalbard and Antarctic expedition cruises.

For more kayak advice, see Paddle Pulse 1 and Paddle Pulse 2.

The post Paddle Pulse: Master the art of kayak photography appeared first on Australian Geographic.

If I’d been hiking independently, I’d probably have scraped a smudge of peanut butter across a cracker and called it dinner. Instead, our trekking crew of guides and porters had been busy. Between tending to trekkers, a goat had been slaughtered for dinner. Villagers had wandered in to form a welcoming party. There was song, dance, hugs and even garlands to celebrate our return from the mountain.

As I sat doing nothing but enjoying the ache of fatigued success, with activity and food swirling around me, I thanked the Ethiopian gods (Emperor Haile Selassie, for the Rastafarians in the room) that I’d come in a guided group, and that all I’d had to do was drag my feet to the highest point in the country. 

And yet I also wondered if my success was somehow diluted because it had been so dependent on others. I’d been guided and goaded to the summit, placing everything but my feet and a daypack in the hands of guides and porters. 

It was the age-old mental wrestle, the question that divides hikers: to trek guided or unguided?

The guiding light

It can often seem that there are two types of people in the hiking world: those who’ll only trek independently and those who prefer to walk guided. The former might be more evangelical about the purity of their experience, but there are undoubted benefits to having more experienced, better equipped feet and fingers pointing the way.

Guided trips cover the gamut of walking experiences, from gourmet gambols in Tasmania to altitude-busting trekking peaks in Nepal, allowing trekkers to begin as gently as they like and progressively step beyond their comfort zones with a feeling of security and confidence. There’s typically emergency backup and support on tap, with professional guides making all the important calls along the trail.

It’s a way to smooth the path, not only as you walk, but also before and after the trek. Transport connections are simplified and the often unfathomably complex logistics of acquiring permits and the like are handled by a knowing guide – without them in some countries, it can be like a blind date with bureaucracy.

The daily slog of a trek is inevitably alleviated, at least to some degree, when guided. Depending on your trek and its operator, meals are typically prepared for you (by a crew of staff in places such as Nepal, or by your guide in richer lands) and tents might be pitched and waiting before you wander into camp. Pack weights are minimised, either by use of porters, food drops or simply through your guides’ abilities to haul heftier loads.

As an example, on Tasmania’s Overland Track independent bushwalkers usually set out with up to 25kg on their backs, while guided walkers on Tasmanian Expeditions’ camping trips along the track might carry 15-17kg. Hikers on the guided Cradle Mountain Huts Walk, staying in private huts along the same track, will carry about 9kg. In New Zealand, guided walkers on the Milford Track can carry as little as 5-6kg.

Big hiking investment, big return

For all this, of course, you pay a literal price – guided walking is more costly. But though money is one of the prime reasons many baulk at a guided trek, former World Expeditions domestic general manager Chris Buykx believes this can often be a false economy.

“Think of all the costs, from big ticket items – tent, shell jacket, backpack – to smaller items – maps, plates, water bottles,” Buykx says. “If you accumulate your kit over time, you don’t really think about it, but it adds up.

“People also don’t think about the cost savings of your trip failing. Guides are generally so good – they’ve seen it all, know how to manage it – that 99.9 per cent of the time they’ll recover a good trip where an independent trip might fail. For a small group of independent walkers, a minor failure can cascade into a major epic or a trip-ending failure.”

Break it down and it is unquestionably cheaper to hike independently, but often the difference is less than people imagine. You might only see the $2000 price tag on a guided trek, but it’s easy to overlook the accumulation of costs for an independent hike. For instance, a guided private walk on the Milford Track begins at NZ$2595. Hike it independently and hut fees and bus and ferry fares from Queenstown amount to around a quarter of that, at roughly NZ$500, without food and any equipment costs considered.

A guided camping trip on the Overland Track with Tasmanian Expeditions costs $2995. Come unguided and the minor costs quickly accumulate – around $420 for a track booking, parks pass and bus and ferry fares before you’ve even stepped inside a supermarket or gear store.

And at what other cost might the monetary savings come?

“In wilderness travel, you put yourself in a position of openness to letting the country work its magic,” Buykx says. “It can be a transformative experience. So much can happen with time and exposure to country, but it can only happen if you’re warm and fed and feeling safe. Otherwise you can be in survival mode only. People get more than they realise (when guided).”

Go your own way

At the risk of stating the bleeding obvious, the overwhelming benefit to independent hiking is the independence. Quite simply, you can make it all up as you go: stride along at your own pace, walk in silence or in chatter, detour as you please, get naked and swim in that trailside stream, pitch your tent in that unexpectedly inviting clearing a few kilometres short of your intended camp.

There’s an undeniable freedom to walking independently that is surrendered when you fall into step behind a guide, where the beat of the day is set by others – strangers until a few days before – and any sense of your own decision making evaporates.

For some, that’s a welcome feeling – all walk, no responsibility – but to trek independently is to also constantly sharpen and extend your outdoors skills. Every moment, every thing, depends on you, whether it be the catering and packing, choosing and setting up camp, or making decisions around maps, compasses and navigation. For many, it’s this very sense of self-sufficiency, so absent in modern life, that compels them onto the trail.

Emergency support may be less readily available as an independent hiker, but that too can be overcome with a little preparation. Personal locator beacons (EPIRBs) can be hired, and a number of businesses also hire out satellite phones.

No missing out when hiking independently

Even if guided trips are the gentlest introduction to trekking, stepping out independently doesn’t need to be a sudden, blind leap into the mountainous unknown. For every 4000km-long Pacific Crest Trail, there’s a three- or four-day amble offering a softly-softly induction into hiking life.

Close to home, New Zealand’s Great Walks are a network of nine well-formed tracks (and one canoe trip), each one taking between three and five days to hike. All are lined with well-equipped huts, meaning you don’t need to carry an Atlas-like weight on your back. On the famed Milford Track, you’ll hike no more than 18km a day; on the nearby Routeburn Track, huts are less than 12km apart.

In Australia, good introductory independent tracks include Tasmania’s three-day Freycinet Peninsula Circuit and the ever-popular Overland Track, which is lined with public huts. In easy reach of the country’s two largest cities, the Six Foot Track (NSW) and the southern circuit at Wilson’s Promontory (Vic) are short, accessible opportunities to test drive your mind and body with a full pack on your back. Queensland’s Thorsborne Trail might be the ultimate big-reward-for-little-effort hike, providing a beach and waterfall-rich stroll through tropical Hinchinbrook Island, with no walking day longer than about 10km.

Related: Best foot forward: A guide to hiking

Unless you’re heading into the wilderness, independent trekking also opens the potential for greater interaction with local people. In many countries, trekking can be as much a window on culture as it is on nature. Wandering alone or with a few friends, you tend to be more approachable than a herd of trekkers, and you’re hopefully freer to accept those invites to sit for a chat, or a feed or even to stay the night.

It’s a feature trekking companies have recognised, with some now building interactions – evenings with traditional landowners along the Larapinta Trail, coffee ceremonies in the Simien Mountains – into their trekking itineraries. But random, chance encounters still typically fall to those who come without group or agenda.

Then, of course, there’s that final, decisive factor for many hikers: dollars. However you crunch the numbers, it is cheaper, if not easier, to hike under your own guidance, even if it is only by a matter of degrees on some of the pricier trails.

Spend $700 on a decent three-season hiking tent and carry it across even 10 treks, and it’s a $70-per-outing investment in accommodation. It’s a very small price to pay for the million-dollar views at those irresistible, surprise camp spots you only find when you’re out on your own.

Whichever way you end up going independently or with a guided group on your next multi-day hike, don’t forget you can always ‘mix it up’ and try the other option the following time. After all, regardless of which way you choose to enjoy hiking in the outdoors, both offer that same sense of freedom combined with immersion in our wild world. That’s a win for both options, we reckon!

The post Guided vs unguided hiking: Follow the leader or go your own way? appeared first on Australian Geographic.

So what actually is being ‘fit for adventure’ and what does it mean? Does it require a different type of fitness? How does adventure-based fitness differ from training for field sports or a fun run?

First things first

First of all, what is adventure? That’s about as subjective a question as you can get, isn’t it?

So this leads to the dictionary definition: 1. an unusual and exciting or daring experience; and 2. to engage in daring or risky activities.

So by that definition adventure covers a wide variety of pastimes ranging from the traditional healthy outdoor activities any self-respecting reader of Aus Geo Adventure would be interested in, to urban adventures, flying adventures, to motorised travel – hell, it can be signing up as a mercenary in Georgia or joining the French Foreign Legion.

But for the purpose of this article we are going to look in particular at adventures that have some form of physical aspect, possibly some risk, mental challenges, and are undertaken in the great outdoors and wilderness settings.

For the novice and the inexperienced the adventure in a wilderness scenario conjures up a romantic view; the freedom of the hills, hiking, climbing and sailing through wild places in wilder conditions to successfully plant your flag and cast your eyes to the next horizon.

For the experienced, it’s all of the above backed up with years of accumulated knowledge, skills acquisition, discomfort (and a grim pleasure in that). It’s being able to suffer and struggle, proving that you deserve the good days and the views, that feeling of the last crest, a sun breaking over a horizon from high camp, or pitching a tent in dying sunlight as you’ve got past the crux of an extended journey.

We are focusing on wilderness based adventure activities: i.e., mountaineering, self-powered off road journeys by ski, mountain biking (MTB), running, paddling or hiking over land, river, ice or sea… If I missed off your favourite adventure activity please forgive me and feel free to let me know.

The common denominator amongst all of these adventures is they are primarily powered by humans. The other is that they all are primarily endurance based.

They also all require what I call “the magic five of an exciting escapade”.

Five of the best

Any adventure comprises of the following five pillars:

Vision: what is your exciting escapade; your adventure, large or small.

Preparation: planning and physical preparation.

Resources: available prior and during adventure. People, places, finances, equipment, knowledge

Skills: available and needed. What relevant skills are required? What do you currently have? Need improving? New skills needed?

Ability (and durability) – physical and mental: Being physically and mentally up to the task at hand

It’s the Ability (and durability) pillar that is my area of expertise and the area I’d like to get stuck into here.

Ready and able to dig deep

So what is being fit for an adventure? In simple terms it’s being physically and mentally capable for the task at hand.

As mentioned earlier, wilderness-based adventure activities are predominantly endurance based but there are other factors involved that traditional endurance based activities, such as running a road marathon, don’t have.

For example, in multi-day adventure activities, as well as being able to keep going day after day for extended periods of time, we may have to cope with the elements, with environmental concerns, such as tree roots, avalanche and rock fall, getting rolled in rapids, taking falls, sleeping in cold, wet, places then facing it all again tomorrow and the day after that. We have to be ready for the “big” days; maybe a summit push or what is known as “an epic” – when it’s all gone south and a normal day has turned into a mammoth 22-hour descent in the dark with a fractured rib and broken head-torch. Or you’ve rolled out of your pack-raft and are wet and cold and portaging your craft while trying to seek shelter and get dry before hypothermia sets in. Or it may be being able to get over that high pass in white- out conditions.

So let’s break down the fitness we need to cope with the challenges above.

Be robust: Your body and your mind need to be able to take punishment. If you are strong, stable and enduring you will be in a better position to handle the shit that invariably comes your way.

For example, if you are deconditioned and slower reactively, or you take a tumble, you may not have the agility to recover. If you do go down, a strong muscle structure and the right level of mobility, general joint strength and healthy connective tissue may mean the difference between a graze and bruised ego or a badly sprained ankle, which in the wrong environment can quickly become life threatening.

To top it off, when you think you’re done, you must be able to pull more out of the tank. We call it a Deep Reserve.

Standing by principles

Let’s get a bit deeper into these areas: This is a model I’ve developed called the SMERF* principle. It’s the foundational principles we use for working with all our people, whether recreational wanderers, or adventure sport athletes:

Be Strong – we need to have a strong foundation. If the muscle structure and connective tissue are weak, we are prone to tears, soreness, pulls, muscle fatigue. People get confused between strength and muscle size. What is important is our strength to body-weight ratio, and that strength is determined by the ability of the nervous system to contract our muscles efficiently – NOT the size of our muscles. This is NOT hours in the gym “working out” for the sake of “working out”; this is focused training using the developments of the last 50 years in exercise and sports science to help us do what we love, better!

And if you are one those “I hate the gym, it’s not for me” people – get over it. I do understand; your view is an air conditioned environment of grunting, heaving Neanderthals with their shirts off lifting impossibly heavy loads. However, we’ve moved on; we are now training for a purpose. Depending on the goals it can be as little as a couple of hours per week. The gym is a tool, nothing more. It’s the best tool for certain jobs. NOT all jobs, but certain ones, such as the mechanics of a loaded barbell squat – something you can’t replicate at home with dumbbells, or outside in a park with bodyweight. It’s not the same stimulus.

You may then say: but my sport requires me to move functionally NOT fixed. And I agree. But if we look at physiology and shear forces and the science of loading principles, there are only so many ways to skin a cat, only so many ways to move a muscle and only so many ways to measure the result. And I’m afraid in the case of say, using the squat, with the millions of dollars of research and history and science to back it up as a great general physical preparation tool (GPP) at the right time in your program, it wins. But also be aware, at other times, such as closer to your adventure when specificity is required, specificity, which in this case may be single-leg exercises, weighted hill sprints or tyre drags and sled work, will trump the squat.

Be Mobile yet stable. Your joints need to be stable, and your limbs mobile. Virtually all our sports are repetitive. How many times do hips move in a 40km approach march to our peak, how many times does the shoulder rotate during a five-day paddle? Can those joints sustain that kind of movement? Can they move through the full range of motion fluidly and without putting excess pressure on the muscles working to stabilise the joint through that movement.

Due to modern lifestyles stability is something we’ve sacrificed – both stability and mobility and the body being balanced due to being hunched over desks, staring at screens. When we are working on stability and joint mobility we are trying to get the body back into balance. The stabilising muscles are the smaller ones that switch on to assist a movement. Weak or overactive stabilisers combined with a lack of a range of motion (mobility and flexibility) tend to lead to most of our general performance injuries.

To Endure – build our aerobic capacity – aka the engine room. Train to be able to keep going all day. Don’t be seduced by CrossFit or F45; this is not about short brain-melting workouts; this is time outside, running, rucking (training with a pack), cycling, swimming, etc.

Have a Reserve – train to be able to pull it out of the back when the chips are down. Can you pull yourself out of a crevasse when tired? Can you hike an extra 15km when you went down the wrong trail? Can you tread water for hours after you’ve capsized? Be prepared for the unknown.

Mind Frame – one of my favourite areas – and one that can cause the fittest, most able and skillful would-be adventurer to crumble. I’ve seen this happen to others – and I’ll be honest, I’ve seen myself come unstuck on a mountaineering trip in New Zealand.  I went into the trip in the wrong head-space, made a series of poor decisions and only succeeded because of the encouragement of a good mate.

The five Cs of a good mind frame

1. Control: Involves the extent to which you feel in control of your life and circumstance, as well as how you control your emotions.

2. Commitment: How committed are you to succeeding in the current situation/adventure/event?

3. Challenge: To what extent are you prepared to push the boundaries, embrace change, and accept risk?

4. Connectedness: How connected are you to your surroundings, the environmental situation you find yourself in, those around you, your team, others.

5. Confidence: The extent to which you believe in yourself, your abilities and your capabilities. Are you “I can”, “I will”, “I’ve got this”, or are you not sure?

Mind Frame or “Mental Toughness” can be taught but in many ways is harder to train than the body. If you put a body under load you will get a physiological response. Whereas you will only respond to training the mind if you are open to it, if you approach it with a growth mindset. This is why two people can see exactly the same situation with completely different viewpoints, depending on their behavioural dexterity and flexibility.

Something to think about

So in wrapping up, being “adventure fit” is very different from being “road fit”.

1. General strength and stability and having a strong engine, i.e. cardiovascular capacity, are the foundations of good adventure fitness.

2. Don’t neglect your strength training. But don’t train like a bodybuilder or a CrossFit-er.

3. Train to be physically robust, resilient and enduring.

4. Being mobile, flexible and stable is as important as being strong, fit and fast.

5. The mind is the most important muscle to train for big days in the wilderness.

One last thing: patience is everything in training. This is NOT about the individual workout; it’s about progression over time. Build a strong house, lay solid foundations. Spend time on your foundations and the walls will be stronger and the roof more stable. Don’t rush for the fancy stuff. Work on the basics first. Any physical activity, where you are pushing yourself, runs the risk of injury. To say that people shouldn’t or don’t get hurt in training is unrealistic. However, just like when you are in the wild, it’s about calculated risk and we don’t expose ourselves to the risk of injury needlessly.

Enjoy, and see you in the wild… on the trails or in the gym!

See Joe’s Basecamp for more info.

The post Willing and able: How to train for outdoor adventures appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Svalbard, which literally translates to ‘the cold edge’ in Old Norse, is awesome – in the truest sense of the word. On our expeditions, we travel aboard a reconditioned Soviet-era research vessel aptly called the Polar Pioneer. And while paddling is optional on those trips, it really is an unmatched way to experience the glaciated terrain, jagged peaks and spot wildlife including polar bears on the sea ice.

On that recent expedition, we were treated to calm waters and brilliant blue skies – but even in perfect conditions, the reality of the extreme environment is always present, especially when I’m not just responsible for my own comfort and safety, but that of our guests as well. 

You may consider yourself firmly in the camp of fair-weather paddler but take my word that getting outside your comfort zone can offer unparalleled rewards. While the raw, remote beauty of the polar regions is the stuff of lifelong memory-making, paddling in Australian winter also has its unique charms. In the end, it’s about getting closer to nature in all her moods. 

To that end, here are my top 10 tips to ensure you’re prepared for your next cold-water kayaking adventure:

1. Dress for success

Water can strip heat fast, even in milder climates, so it is vital to consider how you are dressing for your paddle, taking into consideration both the water temperature and the air temperature. In the polar regions, where immersion could have such serious consequences and hypothermia can set in within minutes, dressing for the water temperature by using a dry-suit and appropriate layering is a must. 

A typical polar outfit includes base layer thermals, mid-weight fleece, warm socks and, crucially, a fully-enclosed drysuit. Be sure to check the integrity of your drysuit gaskets – the latex cuffs around your wrists, neck, and ankles that ensure the suit remains waterproof.

Besides maybe a few icy rivers in the middle of winter, most paddling locations in Australia are mild compared to the polar regions. Nonetheless, it is always critical that you take greater precautions with planning your clothing in cold-weather environments, whether you are planning to paddle for an hour or a week.

The rules for dressing for cold-water paddling are similar to other cold weather activities such as skiing or alpine walking – use layers and opt for materials like wool (or a synthetic equivalent) that remains warm while wet (as opposed to cotton, which strips body heat when wet) and ensure you have protective wind and waterproof layers. You may also want to pack an extra layer, like another thick jacket, for any time spent on land and outside of the protection of your kayak skirt. 

2. Embrace the hat-trick

It may sound odd, but carrying several hats is another trick I’ve learned over the years. I typically have at least three with me: a skull cap or wool liner, a beanie, and a sun hat for UV protection, especially in areas where the sun’s rays are magnified by ice and snow reflection.

The head is a significant avenue for heat regulation, so keeping it toastie will reap dividends for your overall comfort!

3. More handy advice

Cold hands can quickly ruin a paddling experience, so for this I recommend pogies. Like ‘sleeping bags’ for your hands, they Velcro onto the paddle to protect your fingers from the water and wind. At a pinch (or on a budget) dish gloves with additional woollen gloves underneath can do the job.

4. Stay hydrated

The cold can deceive you into thinking you’re not thirsty but be sure to carry ample water. Sea kayaking is a good physical workout and staying hydrated is crucial.

5. The sugar hit

Cold weather saps more energy and I have had many occasions when a little something sweet (and preferably hot) has helped pep up a weary paddler and give us the strength to do those extra miles.

6. Expect the unexpected

While you hope and plan for the best, always prepare for unexpected scenarios – think icy immersion or a delay in returning to the ship. Our safety kit includes bothy bags for temporary emergency shelter, hand warmers, spare clothing, sleeping bags and hot water thermoses.

7. Watch the wind

Cold winds can lead to faster heat loss. When paddling, pay attention to the wind direction and consider adjusting your course to minimise exposure. This often results in a more enjoyable paddling experience anyway, as you have to get closer to shore and often take a more scenic route. Plan your route to ensure you have wind-free or sheltered landing sites where possible, as you are most susceptible to heat loss once you stop or get out of your kayak. 

8. Charge your devices

Cold weather drains battery power quickly so whether it is your VHF radio, camera or phone, be sure everything is fully charged so you can call for help or make sure you don’t miss that special photo opportunity.

9. Keep it in reach

If you are carrying anything that you may need on the water, make sure it is easily accessible without opening hatches or removing your spray skirt if possible. It is Murphy’s law that the day you are out sea kayaking you will be needing those hand warmers, spare hats and food just as the weather turns. If you are not wearing a windproof layer like a cag when you start your paddle, make sure it is accessible on the water.

10. Back to basics

While this is something you should do on any sea kayaking outing, the stakes are always higher in cold weather environments so be sure to follow the basic rules: check the weather, tell people where you are going, dress and pack appropriately for your intended route, carry a communication device and preferably travel in a group.

With the right preparation, respect for the conditions and, ideally, guidance from experienced professionals, cold-water kayaking transforms from a daunting prospect into a safe, exhilarating adventure. 

Stay tuned for more insights, and until then – stay warm!

Toby Story is Senior Guide and Director at Southern Sea Ventures, which pioneered commercial sea kayaking trips to Antarctica in the 1990s and continues to run expedition cruises all over the world, including in the polar regions, the subantarctic islands and southern Tasmania.

The post Paddle Pulse: Thrills and chills of cold-water sea kayaking appeared first on Australian Geographic.

In worst-case scenarios, a tummy bug can physically inhibit you to the point where you can’t carry on, or it can make you seriously ill and in need of medical assistance, so it’s good practice to look after yourself by adhering to good hygiene practices, managing and storing your food safely, and having access to clean drinking water, which is where a water filtration system comes in.

On short trips of just a day or two, you’ll be able to carry clean drinking water with you, but this isn’t always an option for trips of longer duration. While water can be carried in a huge number of convenient containers suited to just about any adventure, it’s bulky and heavy, so on longer trips you’ll need to access water in the field… and there’s no guarantee that this water will be clean.

What’s in dirty water?

The four main contaminants in water include inorganic contaminants, organic contaminants, biological contaminants, and radiological contaminants. Even water that appears to be clean can contain harmful contaminants. If the water source is a stream that runs through farmland, for example, it could contain effluent from farm animals or run-off from fertilisers; tank water can contain sediments that may have been stirred up by recent rain; bore water can contain high levels of salts and naturally occurring chemicals; and other water sources can be contaminated by industry and contain all sorts of chemicals and heavy metals.

Physical contaminants can often be seen in water and can be quite easily detected by assessing colour, smell and taste, but microbial contaminants cannot be seen, so even if your water source appears crystal clear, has no odour and tasted fine, there is still no guarantee that it is safe to drink. Microbial contaminants include pathogens such as bacteria, viruses and parasites and, if ingested, can make you feel sick.

What can dirty water do to you?

One of the most common ailments from drinking dirty water is caused by giardia, which is a small parasite that causes giardiasis. Giardia can be found in water that has been contaminated by animal or human faeces, and once someone in your party has giardiasis, it can be spread from person to person. Short-term symptoms of giardiasis include diarrhoea, stomach cramps, nausea, vomiting and dehydration. Giardiasis usually lasts for two to six weeks, but in worst-case scenarios, long-term symptoms can include irritable bowel syndrome and recurring diarrhoea.

While there are several medicines to treat giardiasis, when you’re in the field the best advice is to stay hydrated by drinking plenty of fluids, but obviously not the contaminated water that made you sick in the first place.

Water that has been contaminated by faeces can also contain viruses including adenovirus, astrovirus, hepatitis A and E viruses, rotavirus, norovirus and other caliciviruses. These viruses can cause gastroenteritis which, like bacteria, can result in diarrhoea, stomach cramps, nausea, vomiting and dehydration. Some viruses can lead to more serious diseases such as encephalitis, meningitis, myocarditis and hepatitis. Oh, and as water passes through soils and rocks it can even pick up radiological contaminants, and long-term exposure can cause cancers.

Water filtration and contaminants

Fortunately, there are plenty of water filtration methods to eliminate contaminants. These include the simple act of boiling water before you drink it, adding purifier tablets, using pump or gravity filtration systems, as well as treating water with a UV light.

Filters come in all shapes and sizes and so not all are fit for purpose. Some are quite large and heavy, so you wouldn’t want to take them away on a hiking or climbing trip, for example, while others are small and light but might not have the water-purifying capacity for a large group of travellers.

It also needs to be pointed out that not all filtration methods filter out all types of contaminants, so if you’re travelling in an area where there might be high nitrate levels, then simply boiling water or running it through an inline filter will not do the job.

Boiling water

Boiling water before you drink it is a simple and effective way to remove bacteria and neutralise viruses, so if you don’t have a dedicated filtration and purification device, put the billy/pot/pan on the fire before you drink water to ensure you don’t end up with giardiasis. What boiling water won’t remove, however, is organic matter, heavy metals and pesticides. For that you’ll need a combination of filtration and purification systems.

We spoke with outdoor specialist Kent Cartner, who works with Travis Frenay from Valley Outdoors, and he advises that while boiling water makes it safe from viruses, a “big disadvantage is the flat taste that it gives the water once it cools”.

Filtration for hiking and biking

There are plenty of water filters on the market but most of them will not remove viruses, with a couple of exceptions. For hiking, bikepacking and camping, where you need a lightweight and compact device, an inline filter system is ideal. One example that can attach to your water bladder system is the MSR Thru-Link. This is inline filter simply clicks into your hydration reservoir to provide filtered water on the go. It has a two-stage filtration system with a fast-flow advanced hollow fibre filter (see next paragraph) that is claimed to remove pathogens, particulates and micro-plastics, and an activated carbon that’s claimed to reduce the presence of chemicals, tastes and odours. It can also be used as a gravity filtration system once at camp using your hydration reservoir. 

For reference, hollow fibre filters contain hundreds of tiny tubes bundled together to create a filter matrix. The walls of the tubes have microscopic pores, and as water passes through the fibres, microbiological threats are trapped inside. These filters are perfect for hiking and biking because they are light, have high water-flow rates and are effective in clear and turbid water. You can also easily tell when they have reached the end of their useful life as backwashing will no longer restore flow and they simply clog up and stop working.

Another compact device is the lightweight (142g) pocket-size MSR TrailShot filter. This allows you to drink directly from water sources along the trail, or filter water to fill bottles. The TrailShot removes bacteria, protozoa and particulates.  The MSR MiniWorks EX is a 456g water filter designed for frequent and heavy use. It has a carbon/ceramic element that can filter up to 2000 litres, and a solid activated carbon core to reduce unpleasant tastes, odours and chemical contaminants. Flow rate is one litre per minute and it can be attached to a range of wide-mouth bottles.

The QuickDraw MicroFilter + Reservoir System from Platypus is a “fill and squeeze” setup. Simply fill the reservoir and squeeze it to force water through the hollow fibre cartridge filter. You can drink direct or fill up water bottles and it is claimed to remove bacteria and protozoa, and has a flow rate of three litres per minute.

Another pump-free setup is the Platypus GravityWorks Bottle Kit. To operate you just fill the dirty reservoir and hang it. Water flows through the filter and into a connected bottle at up to 1.5 litres per minute. The microfilter can be backflushed and the system will remove bacteria and protozoa.

Water filtration for recreational camping

Weight and size are not as important when it comes to recreational camping, and for this pursuit you can upsize your filtration system.

MSR manufactures the TrailBase Water Filter Kit, which includes a gravity filtration system for use at camp and a small pocket-size filter for out on the trail. This system’s flexibility makes it suited to hiking, biking and basecamping.

Similar in design to the Platypus GravityWorks Bottle Kit (listed above), the GravityWorks Complete Kit is designed to cater to the needs of two to four people at camp. It filters up to 1.5 litres per minute, removing bacteria and protozoa, and is supplied with a range of adapters as well as a collapsible bottle.

There are also several products on the market that filter and purify water. The MSR Guardian Purifier, for example, uses a pump system with a hollow fibre technology to remove protozoa, bacteria and sediment from contaminated water, as well as viruses… without using chemicals, bulbs or batteries. MSR claims the Guardian Purifier can treat more than 10,000L of water per cartridge. 

There’s also a gravity-fed version of the Guardian Purifier that uses the same filter as the pump version but has a 10L reservoir that can be hung up to supply the daily water needs of several people.

The MSR Guardian is also easy to service in the field. “A big advantage of the [MSR] Guardian filter is that it is self-cleaning,” advises outdoor specialist Kent Cartner. “Other pump filters can be quite bad for clogging and require regular maintenance. Inline gravity filters are the same but are quite easy to backflush and don’t require disassembly.”

Water filtration set-up for vehicle-based activities

If you’re travelling in a vehicle you can upsize your water filtration system even more. The MSR AutoFlow XL Gravity Filter is a larger system that can quickly deliver 10 litres of clean water; just get it going as you set up camp and you’ll have clean water when you need it.

Platypus also offers larger filtration systems; the GravityWorks Filter System is available in 4L and 6L capacities. These setups are ideal for pump-free water filtration at basecamps, filtering up to 1.75 litres per minute. They are well suited to larger backpacking groups or basecamps with an eight to 12 litre total capacity. 

But if you need to filter water and kill viruses, you’ll still need a product like the Guardian Purifier or Guardian Gravity Purifier.

UV disinfection

Ultra Violet (UV) light can be used as a water treatment system and is effective against all against all viruses, bacteria and protozoa; the UV light damages the cellular function of micro-organisms which prevents them from growing.

It needs to be pointed out that UV light only works effectively in clear water. As Kent Cartner points out, “UV filters are great for travel in countries where tap water is suspect. A big advantage is that it’s quick and does not change the taste like chemical treatment or cartridge filters. A big risk with UV filters is that the sediment in the dirty water would cast shadows and reduce sterilisation effectiveness. Basically, it stops the light from reaching the pathogen you’re trying to neutralise.” So while UV light can purify water, it does not filter out physical contaminants, so contaminated water still needs to be filtered prior to UV treatment.

The most widely known portable UV treatment system is the SteriPEN. According to the manufacturer, all you need to do is hold the pen in one litre of water for 90 seconds to purify it, destroying viruses, bacteria and protozoa, including giardia and cryptosporidium. The SteriPEN is small, lightweight (97g) and powered by four AA batteries, and its lamp life is a claimed 8000 cycles, which is enough to treat 8000 litres of water.

Chemical treatments

Contaminated water can also be treated with water-purifying tablets or liquid chemical additives, which essentially disinfect the water using a variety of chemicals. Water-purifying tablets are proven method of killing giardia, bacteria and viruses, and one tablet is usually treats one-litre of water, making them easy to use. It should be noted, however, that some tablets can take 30 minutes or more to rid water of bacteria and viruses.

And like UV light, water-purifying tablets do not filter out physical contaminants, so you will still need to use a water filtration system.

When it comes to chemical treatments, Kent Cartner advises, “They do come with a taste that not everyone likes. The taste is actually worse when the water is clear and clean, as the chemical has nothing to bind too. 

“Taste can be improved by leaving treated water overnight with lid off, or Gatorade powder. The powder needs to be added after the treatment time has passed. Cold water takes longer to treat.”

Don’t risk it

We’re very lucky here in Australia with access to clean and safe drinking water throughout much of the country, but the fact most of us are so used to drinking straight from the tap can make us a bit blasé when it comes to sourcing clean water out in the field. 

If you can’t carry enough clean water with you, it’s vitally important to have a water filtration and purification system that will not only filter out physical contaminants, but also kill bacteria and viruses. 

Kent Cartner’s final word on the subject? “Ultimately there are lots of good choices and my choice would depend on the activity and water source. The gold standard would be a combination of mechanical and chemical [filtration], just like our town water supply.”

The post Keep it clean: The ultimate guide to outdoor water filtration systems appeared first on Australian Geographic.

While that encounter stands out in my memory as one of those raw, intimate connections with nature that sea kayaking is so good at delivering, it’s really one of countless such moments I’ve experienced over the years, thanks to the sport. 

Paddling came into my life as a kid with a couple of old kayaks at home in Broke Inlet in southern Western Australia. Since then I’ve worked as a guide and am now the owner and Director of Southern Sea Ventures – a company that’s been introducing adventurers to sea kayaking in some of the world’s most stunning destinations for the past 30 years.

So, it’s fair to say I’ve had my share of exploits on the water with a paddle in hand, and I’m excited to share what I’ve learned with Aus Geo Adventure readers in this new web series – Paddle Pulse. Every six weeks, we’ll venture into topics like choosing the right paddle for your strength and build, understanding ocean currents for safe paddling, and insights from our expert guides on encountering marine wildlife from a respectful distance. Whether you’re an old hand at paddling, or completely new to the sport, I hope to deliver fresh insights and inspire your own adventures.

On the water for the best rewards

Of course, sea kayaking is so much more than a sport – it’s a way to get up close and personal with nature, to embrace the wild and the unpredictable, to venture into a new environment and experience the landscape from a perspective that really isn’t possible any other way.

Imagine sharing the water with a minke whale in the freezing waters of Antarctica, watching it circle your kayak and breaching the surface to say hello. Or feeling the pulse of the sea beneath you as a powerful orca swims by, inspecting you with an inquisitive glance. I’ve experienced these kinds of heart-stopping encounters and more on trips I’ve guided over the years – and can safely say there are few better ways to get that profound sense of being a part of something much larger than yourself.

The thrill of sea kayaking is not solely reserved for encounters with marine life. There’s such a rewarding sense of achievement that comes with mastering the strokes and harnessing your strength to manoeuvre your craft – whether you’re navigating through a calm bay, drifting inside an echoey sea cave, or taking on the thrill of riding a wave into shore.

And it’s not all smooth sailing: the ocean has a knack for springing surprises, especially if you’re inexperienced or unprepared. I learned this the hard way early on in my kayaking years, when an unexpected high tide at Cape Barren Island set my kayak adrift. That’s a story (and a lesson) that will no doubt turn up again in more detail in a future post – so stay tuned.

Until then, happy paddling!

Toby Story is Senior Guide and Director at Southern Sea Ventures, which offers guided kayaking adventures across the world, including in Tasmania, Fiji and the polar regions. Toby has more than 15 years’ experience as a sea kayaking expedition guide, as well as a Master’s degree in science.

The post Paddle Pulse: Welcome to the amazing world of sea kayaking appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Yeah, we know – it nearly sounds too much hard work; planning out your route, sorting your gear, keeping the kids entertained for the whole time and, most importantly, ensuring everyone involved has a stress-free, relaxed – and fun – break. Well, we reckon we can make that camping adventure – whether vehicle-based, or hiking, paddling or cycling – just that bit easier. It is all in the preparation…

Types of shelters

Tent, swag, rooftop tent and camper-trailer. As with vehicles, camp accommodation options are many – and the final choice will depend on a number of factors unique to you, your family and the destinations you have on your bucket-list. 

There’s no single solution to camp accommodation. There are innumerable variables that affect choice; destination, numbers (family or single/couple), available space in/on top of your vehicle, and personal wants and needs all play a part in helping find the most suitable mobile base camp. 

For some, the choice may be the swag. For families who like a bit of ‘luxury’ it is the self-contained appeal of a camper-trailer. Add in the (still) popular choice of a tent – ground-based or a rooftop – and you can see it ain’t easy; each option has advantages and disadvantages.

The tent: a family favourite

The tent is probably the most popular camping accommodation option in Australia, full-stop. The wide variety – large and tough canvas tourers; multi-room family palaces – adds credence to that cliché of the buyer being spoiled for (nearly too much) choice.

For singles, couples and/or owner of compact vehicles (think: hatchbacks, small SUVs) the lightweight hiking tent is worth looking at; minimal cargo space is needed with these tents and you can fit all your sleep gear (clothes, bedding, etc.) inside the tent or in one of its vestibules once it is set up. Speaking of vestibules, look for a hiking tent with two doors and two vestibules, whether you’re travelling one-up or two-up (or with kids; the compact packed size of a hiking tent means you could take two of them in all but the smallest vehicle, and have one parent/one child in each if that suits. It even ups the ‘fun’ factor a bit for the little’uns). Twin vestibules also make for easy entry/exit for all occupants. Check out the tent height as well; being able to at least crouch or sit on your knees inside one of these smaller tents is a surprisingly big thing. There’s nothing worse than having to shuffle/scramble around all bent over inside a tent. Other features to look for include a “bathtub” floor design (this applies for when checking out any tent, large or small), where the stitching that joins the floor to the tent body is above the ground. This avoids the potential for water ingress from underneath the tent.

In terms of a family tent, if you opt for a polycotton/canvas “tourer” style tent, be prepared for them to take up a significant amount of space inside – or on top of – your vehicle. These tents are obviously a lot larger than a hiking tent but offer all the associated benefits of interior (stand-up) height and space for a family (large or small). Some models use a central pole (similar to a pavilion or tent pole), while others use a combination of this and/or interconnected poles for setup. (OzTent is an example, as is Anaconda’s Dune 4WD range and those from Southern Cross Canvas.)  

A touring tent’s construction is its big plus. Most models are made from bombproof poly/cotton canvas (for the tent body) and heavy-duty vinyl (for the floor) and will last many, many years. The extra space, too, cannot be underestimated – especially if you intend spending a considerable amount of time touring. These tents usually feature plenty of ventilation in the form of no see-um mesh windows (with rain awning/cover) on each side/face and, in the main, are not difficult – or time consuming – to set up. The tent-pole designs, such as the Dune 4WD Kimberley 9, are actually super quick, as is the OzTent, with its clever hinged/fold-out design that really does live up to its marketing promise of only taking around 30 seconds to set up. For families who intend on going camping regularly – and into more remote, rugged locations – these tents are a fantastic choice; there’re no worries about kids inflicting too much damage on the tent materials and they can be pitched pretty much anywhere flat, without being too concerned with damaging the floors, etc. 

Size matters

The size of the tent you’ll need for family getaways will obviously depend on the size of your family, but you should also consider how long your trips will be; the longer they are the more gear you’ll likely need to stow in the tent and the larger the better.

In its erect state, there’s more to take into consideration than simply the overall size of the tent; does it have separate sleeping quarters, a vestibule/wet area and/or an awning? Features such as these can be extremely important to ensure everyone gets a good night’s sleep, especially if there’s inclement weather.

Although you won’t be lugging it around on your back, the weight of the tent is still something to consider in a family tent. You’ll not only need to be able to easily put it in your vehicle and then take it out again to manoeuvre it into position, but you’ll also need to ensure it doesn’t tip your vehicle’s payload into the red zone. You’d be surprised at just how little weight many modern vehicles can legally carry; your vehicle’s payload can soon be exceeded just by filling it with occupants, fuel and a moderate amount of luggage, so by the time you throw in camping gear such as a fridge/ice box, food, water, some tools and vehicle recovery gear, you can soon be over the limit. Having said this, you will find most modern large tents, such as the OZtrail Fast Frame BlockOut 10P (see our review, here) quite light for the amount of living space they offer.

Finally, it’s important to examine the size and shape of the tent when it is packed for transporting to make sure it will fit in your vehicle. Some tents fold up into several smallish bags that can be packed around other luggage in your vehicle, while others will pack in such a manner that they can only be transported on your roof racks; what you choose will depend on the size and design of your vehicle and how you intend to transport the tent.

Tent features

There are a number of features in family tents that are designed to improve the camping experience. As with any tent, a family tent is primarily designed to protect you from the elements. There’s a huge range of family tents on the market manufactured from a variety of materials, from tough poly-cotton canvas (as per the touring tents mentioned earlier) to lightweight polyester and nylon. Weatherproofing features to look for include sealed seams, PU coated materials, flies, awnings and ‘bathtub’ floors (as mentioned earlier).

Just as important as weather protection is ventilation; remember, with a whole family sleeping in the one structure you’re going to want plenty of fresh air, not just for odour control but to ensure you don’t have a build-up of condensation. Most family tents will offer plenty of fly-meshed windows/doors to ensure you get good flow-through ventilation.

If your trips usually see you camping in different locations night after night, you’ll want a tent that can be set up and packed away quickly, but if you intend to stay in the one spot for several nights, chances are features such as an awning and separate wet area/vestibule – or even separate rooms – could be more important to you.

The quality of materials and construction will have a big bearing on how well a tent will stand up to the rough and tumble of years of family use and abuse. Take a close look at stitching, seams, zippers, fly screens, poles, guy-ropes and even pegs.

These tents can be heavy – in fact, some of the larger four/six-person models are definitely a two-person job to load/unload from a vehicle – and they eat up a notable amount of cargo space. You just have to figure out how to transport them; inside if there’s enough space, otherwise up on the roof. 

With some swagger

A long-term 4WD journo mate of mine once said, “swags are a triumph of marketing over common-sense”. A tad harsh perhaps, but when looking at camping options, it’s worth looking past the romanticism that surrounds sleeping in a swag to ensure it suits your camping plans. The traditional swag was a simple device: a large piece of canvas with your mattress and all sleeping gear inside. Operation is easy: roll out the swag and there’s your bedding. 

The modern swag is available in multiple designs, from the traditional through to swags that are, really, more aptly described as a tent. Hooped poles, cross-poles, plenty of tie-down ropes, lots of meshed areas for (welcome) extra ventilation to control condensation, etc. are now commonplace on swags. 

The material used is still similar – very tough, treated ripstop cotton/canvas tops/sides and (generally) a heavy-duty nylon base to assist with water-resistance. These swags are still quite easy to setup, but now, with said poles, are not that much quicker than erecting a hiking tent (not that it is a race) and they are a hell of a lot larger when rolled up.

It is the swag’s size and significant weight (most modern single pole-type swags top out around 9kg) that is its main negative: the sheer amount of cargo space a rolled swag (or two, or more) takes up in your vehicle. Even a 4WD ute tray quickly loses its generous cargo space once a couple of rolled-up swags are thrown in the back. You can throw a couple of swags up on the roof, but their bulky shape seems perfectly designed to ramp up your vehicle’s wind resistance and, as a result, increase fuel consumption.

And then there’s rain. Yep, few swag owners will disagree there’s nothing worse than hearing those first drops of rain on the top of your swag; a wet swag – and wet occupant – make for a miserable experience. Erecting a fly over your swag is an option in this scenario and it serves the dual purpose of also providing shelter for your clothing/gear that would otherwise have to be packed in your vehicle.

So, is there a place for the swag? Yes, most definitely. For desert travellers, where clear skies and dry nights are close to guaranteed, there’s still little to compare to spending the night in a swag – especially the traditional design swag that offers its occupant the full outback night sky experience. For solo travellers – or even two-up travellers who opt for a double swag (surprisingly, these don’t take up all that much more space than one single) – the simplicity of operation, the bombproof construction, and the fact a swag (if properly cared for) will last decades, all make for a still-convincing case for this canvas shelter.

Above it all with the rooftop tent

The origins of the rooftop tent are purported to be the African continent. It makes sense, too; think big, hungry carnivores and their potential human meals and you can see why sleeping up on the roof would be a common-sense option.  Rooftop tents have been available in Australia now for many years and for two-up tourers – and those with a couple of little’uns – a rooftop tent (plus an attachable annexe/lower tent) can make perfect sense – especially as it frees up valuable storage space inside your vehicle. Although, there is a caveat… 

As with anything roof-mounted, the weight of a rooftop tent will affect your vehicle’s handling, courtesy of the additional load up top shifting the weight distribution higher, but most rooftop tent models are relatively light. Manufacturers tend to use marine-board or ply bases, comfy mattresses, lightweight polycotton/canvas (in the main – there are some synthetic-fabric variants available) and aluminium poles to keep the weight down. However, before you even think about buying that awesome rooftop tent, you need to know the legal weight limit allowed on the roof of your vehicle (it will be in your owner’s manual). And when looking at maximum legal load weight, that figure needs to account for roof racks/platform, plus the tent and anything else loaded up there. 

The rooftop tent’s simplicity and speed of operation – park your rig, pull the top half of the folded tent over, which opens up the “tent” section with an accordion-style action, then attach, or let down, the ladder to finish – means you can be sitting up pretty, checking out your campsite’s surrounds before you know it. That is, if there is only two of you. Add in a couple of wee tackers and then you will have to add on the readily available lower-tent sections (everything from awnings to additional rooms are offered by rooftop manufacturers). 

One thing to remember with a rooftop tent is to make sure you’ve finished driving before you set up camp. If you did decide to go and view the sunset from that dune half a kilometre away – and already had the rooftop tent erected – you’d have to then re-pack the tent before driving over there. The rooftop tent being constantly attached to your roof is only a slight inhibition if you think ahead, however. And, again, the speed of set-up means you can leave it all until the last minute before bed-time. The other thing to be aware of with a rooftop tent is, if the canvas gets wet overnight, whether through rain or condensation, it’s wise to have some type of waterproof cover to put over your bedding so that if you do have to pack up early with a still-wet tent, you won’t soak your bedding. If you have a hard-shell roof, this is less of an issue. 

Rooftop tents are expensive but are built tough, have myriad accessories for expanding families (or those who just like lots of extra space), and offer the bonus of keeping your vehicle’s cargo area free for other gear. For long-distance tourers a rooftop tent is a fantastic bush accommodation option.

The mobile home

If you’re one of those travellers who wants the best shelter from the elements that money can buy, and who really does want to bring everything plus – literally and figuratively – the kitchen sink, you will need to dig a lot deeper into your pockets and look at an off-road camper-trailer or camper-van. 

Available in numerous configurations, from a converted box trailer with canvas tent on top, through to solid-body models that can cost more than a vehicle, a camper-trailer is the most luxurious bush accommodation you can own. The trusty camper-van has been around for a long time, with flip-out bed sections and wind-up roof synonymous with Aussie caravan parks for decades, thanks to its generous (and comfortable) sleeping areas, small dining table/seats and interior kitchens.

If you’re serious about comfort and plan on spending weeks away from home – or want to take the family away for a week to a local campground – an off-road camper-trailer is tailor-made for your needs. A mini-caravan in terms of size and features, the camper-trailer (or van) offers oodles of extra load space for long-distance touring, courtesy of additional cargo areas both externally (for securing things like bikes, watercraft, etc.) and internally. Hard-exterior versions come out winners in regards to the best protection from the elements.

Generally, standard features include a roll-out/slide-out kitchen and a fridge-freezer as standard or, at the minimum, a dedicated space for one. Add in a bed (obviously), power outlets (and included power source; deep-cycle battery and/or solar panels) and lighting inside and out, space for extra gas bottles and other accessories. Camper-trailers are (usually) only two-up (you can add an extra zip-on room for kids quite easily), while camper-vans are four-up, thanks to those flip-out beds on each end.  

It sounds perfect, dunnit? Well, nearly. One of the caveats on ownership is the slight limitation on access to more remote terrain when towing a trailer (due to the combined length). And then there’s the rise in fuel consumption. Even though we all like to think we pack light, the temptation of using all that available space is too hard to resist. The result is a significant increase in fuel consumption for your camping trip.

Whether you do go for a camper-trailer or camper-van, you will still need relatively deep pockets as you may need to stump up for additional annexes or covered areas, plus additional power supply (solar panel set-ups; the accessory lists with these things are endless). 

However, when you think of the many positives – and the fact most campers hold their value very well for when the time comes to re-sell them – they are a great family camping option for those who make the most of their holidays/weekends. 

The perfect combination?

Each of these camp accommodation choices has its place. For solo and two-up travellers any of these options are worth consideration. For families, swags are out. Rooftop tents need add-ons for kids, plus they are heavy up top, although quick to set up and comfy. 

For this writer’s young family of four, a touring tent is the most cost-effective. It is fast to set up, roomy, and as long as you take care of it, should last years. 

A camper-trailer/van would be great, but they are a big investment and you would need to make sure you use it as much as possible to get the most out of the initial outlay. Plus, you will need a full towing set-up (obviously). However, the fact the camper-trailer/van is probably closest to a true ‘home away from home’ and is fast to set up, enhances its appeal.

You can’t go wrong with any of these, really. They all ensure you are sheltered and comfortable when you’re enjoying Australia’s spectacular wild places.

Camp furniture

Camp chairs: We’ve all had it happen: You’ve spent a long day driving to the campground, then spent another half-hour setting up camp and just want to sit down in that bargain-priced camp chair that you bought as a last-minute purchase. As you sit, you just keep on falling to the ground, the camp chair folding itself around you as it cannot support an adult’s weight. If you’re lucky, it will be embarrassing. If you’re unlucky you could cop an injury.

When looking for a camp chair, there are a few governing factors, ranging from how compact the camp chair is when packed down, to the materials used in its construction, through to the very important weight rating of the camp chair. This may draw a small chuckle but the rated weight figure of a chair actually offers a great insight into the quality of construction of said chair. 

Styles: Camp chair styles range from the cheap fold-up designs with a flat seat and flat back (usually nylon material), connected by alloy tubing that also forms the four legs that are themselves all interconnected by hinges to assist in the fold-up/fold-out process. These will pack up the most compact, but these are also the least capable when it comes to bearing an adult’s weight, although they should be fine with children under 12.

The next step up in terms of style and design is the full-featured chair, such as the Oztent Mawson. This variant may include everything from bottle holders in the (often padded) arms and a sleeve at the back of the seat for magazines, through to a solid (fibreglass or alloy) fold-out table off the side of one of the chair arms. The base and back material in these models may vary; the more heavy-duty camp chairs will feature ripstop polycotton/canvas fabric that is treated against rot and mildew. These camp chairs will also feature sturdier metal tubing (alloy or steel) with larger/stronger hinges, bolts and attachment points, with the purpose of supporting an adult weighing up to 150kg (in some models; check weight ratings for any chair you’re looking at buying).

Materials: The supermarket camp chair uses narrow-gauge aluminium (or sometimes even fibreglass – steer clear of these), along with nylon and small (read: flimsy and weak) hinges, screws and other attachments. 

Most popular camping brands, such as Oztrail, Oztent and Dune 4WD, offer a range of chair models. Some chairs may include powdercoated metals for more resistance to corrosion. Fabric is usually rot/mildew-treated poly/cotton canvas fabric. This fabric combo is the one we favour – a supportive robust material that is weather resistant, durable and doesn’t stretch over time.

Take it sitting down: The best advice we can give on camp chairs is the same we give any outdoor equipment: try before you buy. And by ‘try’ we really mean that; having the sales assistant run through the set up/pack up process is well worth the time.

It doesn’t hurt to have an idea of just how much storage space you have for camp chairs in your vehicle, either. It is no use buying the biggest, burliest and most comfortable camp chair only for it to take up half your cargo area.

Camp tables: This is an easy one. There are numerous camp table variants on the market so it will boil down to what is easiest for you to fit in your vehicle. The flat, hard plastic types that fold in half, are very popular due to their robust surfaces and sturdy metal legs (usually telescopic so they can be shortened, then folded into the base of the table for storage). The textured top surface of these tables ensures things like plates, bowls and drink glasses don’t easily slide off.  These units can be stored at the base of your vehicle’s cargo area, or up on the roof. For longevity, we’d recommend this variant. 

Another camp table option is the slat-type tables (either aluminium or plastic slats) that roll up. Surprisingly, even though they may look ‘flimsy’ when rolled up, they are quite robust when set up, and able to support decent weight. Plus, for those with less storage space in their vehicle, they are very handy. The only caveat here is they are a bit more complicated in construction but, if looked after, will last years. 

Our final tip on tables is, if at all possible, have two or three. One large one for camp kitchen duties, with two mid-sized for eating meals at.

Sleeping bags and mats

Nothing beats a good night’s sleep in the wilderness. The quiet and tranquil nights on offer when you’re dossing down in the middle of nowhere are a big part of the attraction of camping. To make sure this is a regular occurrence on your camping adventure, you need to have your camp bedding sorted: a well thought-out sleep system – comprising a sleeping bag and mattress (or cot) – makes all the difference when you’re dossing down in the outdoors and ensures you wake up fresh and ready to roll for the next day’s adventures.

Sleeping bags

A sleeping bag is one of the most important pieces of outdoor gear to get right at purchase. Sleeping bags provide shelter, warmth and comfort, so buying the right one for the conditions you are going to experience is paramount. 

Sleeping bag choice will be heavily influenced by how your body works; whichever one does the best job of keeping you warm and comfortable will be the bag you need.

A sleeping bag’s temperature and comfort rating plays a big role in your choice and, again, will be dependent on what conditions you are camping in. For most Australian conditions (including the High Country and the central deserts), a bag rated around 0 degrees (or three-season) is the best all-round option. However, because individuals’ bodies are all different, with some people being ‘cold’ sleepers and others happy in sub-zero temps with only a very light bag, you will need to test as many bags as you can to achieve the best ‘fit’.

Whether to opt for a down-fill bag (usually goose-down) or a synthetic-fill bag is the main decision you will need to make. Either option has advantages and disadvantages (see Materials). 

A bag’s fill weight, as opposed to its overall weight, and its ‘loft’ rating are two very important figures. The loft rating, measured in cubic inches, records the volume of the bag that is filled by expanded down. Basically, the higher the loft-figure (and the ‘puffier’ the bag when laid out), the higher quality down and better heat retention. Fill weight is important, too, as it tells you how much of the bag’s overall weight is actually fill (which creates the bag’s warming attributes). Again, the higher the better as more fill generally equals more warmth, as long as the loft figure is reasonable – between 600 and 800 is ideal for all-rounder sleeping bags.

Styles

Sleeping bag shape (or style) plays a major role in final choice. For the best warmth retention capabilities, a mummy-cut bag is the best option. This is due to its compact shape ensuring that there is minimal ‘spare air’ for your body to warm up. However, mummy bags can be constricting for some and make for an uncomfortable night’s sleep. Rectangular bags are the exact opposite: there’s loads of room inside, with the result being that your body has to work twice as hard to warm up all that vacant space. Semi-rectangular, or relaxed-mummy bags are the ideal compromise for those who don’t want to be overly constricted or spend the whole night trying to stay warm in a voluminous bag. For vehicle-based camping, the semi-rectangular one is a great option, with its combo of decent warmth for the weight, and still being relatively compact when packed up in its compression sac. 

There are child-specific sleeping bags on the market and, for those whose little’uns range from three up to around 12 or so, these are worth checking out. Not only are they generally a bit cheaper, but they will be far more comfortable for a smaller body in terms of the ability to retain warmth, thanks to there being less ‘empty space’ to heat up. A note of caution for those thinking of going straight to an adult-size bag for their small child: Don’t do it. There have been cases where small children have suffocated inside a large bag as they’ve rolled around in it and not been able to get out again. That’s a very rare occurrence, but is that temporary saving in skipping the purchase of a child-specific sleeping bag worth it? No, we don’t think so, either.

Materials

How heavy a bag is – and how compact it packs – may or may not be important, but it is reliant on the materials used – with the biggest material influence the actual fill type that is used in the bag. The majority of sleeping bags use synthetic fibre (nylon or a variation of) for the outer shell, but buyers have two choices for the fill material: down or synthetic.

For decades, down-fill bags have been the preferred option due to down’s better warmth for weight performance – plus, it also means the sleeping bag will pack down more compact (down is more compressible). For vehicle-based camping, this may or may not be a huge issue, depending on whether you’re traveling in a big Land Cruiser, or a smaller, more compact Subaru Forester SUV, but it is still worth thinking about as it doesn’t take long for four (or more) bulky sleeping bags starting to take up cargo space in the back of your vehicle. 

However, it’s worth noting that synthetic fill technology has advanced incredibly in the past decade, to the point now where a synthetic-fill bag is a viable option for even the fussiest sleepers; the latest synthetic fill compresses down quite compact, while offering close to the warming capability of down, albeit still with a weight disadvantage. Again, a 500-gram difference in sleeping bag weights may not be an issue for vehicle-based campers, and you’ll be paying a notable amount less for a synthetic-fill bag. 

Down is still the optimal choice for most ‘serious’ outdoor sleepers. Its warmth to weight ratio, its compressibility, it has a longer ‘life’ compared to synthetic, and it is more resistant to odour retention. It does have its negatives, though: if you get your down-fill sleeping bag wet, it will just be wet and cold – it will not offer any warmth at all. There are sleeping bags with a water-resistant down fill now available on the market, but they are pricey. Plus, it is, as mentioned earlier, very expensive. 

The most notable appeal of synthetic-fill sleeping bags is that they are (sometimes significantly) cheaper, can offer the same warming capability (albeit with a weight penalty), and will retain some warmth even when wet. The synthetic-fill technology is ‘nearly there’ in terms of its warmth when compared to down, but you will pay a weight and bulk penalty for a synthetic-fill bag. Plus, synthetic fill does not (as a rule) retain its warming characteristics for as long as down does (this writer has a down-fill bag that is now 20 years old and its still just as cosy as when new). No matter which fill option you go for, though, always remember to air out the bag once you’re back home. It will keep the interior odour and moisture free for longer, and thus prolonging the usable life of your sleeping bag.

Sleeping bag choice is, like most gear we spend time using, always going to come down to personal choice – and, of course, budget. The best bet when looking for a sleeping bag is to not be shy about testing them in-store – and test as many as you can. If you have in your mind a rough idea of what shape and fill you’re after, i.e., a semi-rectangular, down-fill four-season/0-degree bag, that will cut down the time you need to choose the right one. In terms of what to look for: an effective hood design; durable zips; sufficient fill; neck collar (for heat retention); sufficient fill (don’t skimp on this); efficient cut (figure out which you prefer: semi-rectangular or mummy).

And don’t be afraid to ask as many questions as you can of the store assistants. Most of these in the camping and outdoor stores are campers themselves, often with many years’ experience, so if you can give them an idea of where you will be using the bag and what you ideally want out of it, you’ll be snug as a bug in your bag, enjoying that starlit outback night before you know it.

Sleeping mats

As well as a warm sleeping bag, the other big influence on your outdoor nocturnal comfort is the sleeping mat. Sleeping mats are available in solid-foam versions or the more common (and more luxurious) inflatable air mats.

Inflatable sleeping mats – whether self-inflating or via a pump (or your lungs) – are more expensive than the solid-foam mat but raise comfort levels significantly. There are many variants, with some offering different types of insulation (natural, in the form of down, and synthetic), while others offer reflective material inside the mat that is claimed to reflect and retain your body heat. Then there’s the range of mat heights on offer; you can find mats with heights ranging from 25mm up to 100mm. 

When shopping for a mat, you will see reference to ‘R-value’. This is the warmth rating and is a measure of insulation based on a mat being fully inflated. The higher the R-value the warmer you will sleep. The thickness of a mat doesn’t always correlate to one being ‘warmer’ than the other, so check the R-value of your mat before purchase and also remember to take into account whether you are a “warm” or “cold” sleeper. It is worth remembering that the majority of your body heat does not, in fact, dissipate through your head, but through the mat to the ground below.

There are a number of sleeping mats on the market that feature a down or synthetic fill so, even if it does puncture (which is highly unlikely) the mat will still offer some warming qualities due to its fill. Other technology now being used in sleeping mats includes reflective materials that are claimed to reflect a sleeper’s body heat back at them. This also means that mats have become lighter and more compact as this technology effectively “bumps up” the R-value of a mat without adding bulk to the packed size of the mat. How effective this technology is in real situations is hard to quantify and again could be the result of many other factors, such as the individual’s body temperature.

The best advice when looking at a sleep system is to look at both components – the sleeping bag and mat – as one unit, and especially regarding warmth and comfort, as the two ‘work together’ to provide these. This allows you to potentially get away with a slightly less-warm rated sleeping bag if the air mat you choose has a slightly higher R-value. 

Sleeping mats are available in a number of configurations that reflect their intended use; car-camping mats will invariably be larger as they are usually taller (from 70mm to 120mm of height) and have a softer material layer on the top surface. Some car-camping mats are powered, either by battery or mains, making inflation easy. For adventurers that need to ensure all their gear is compact and light, there are still many different types of air mat to choose from. Having said that, we’d highly recommend purchasing a mid-priced mat at the least; cheap budget models don’t hold their shape and fail quite easily due to fragile construction. 

 This does not mean you have to pay a fortune for a sleeping mat: buying from a well-regarded brand that has been producing air mats for years is the safest bet and most of these brands have a wide range of models with pricing that is more palatable. For most Aussie conditions, a three-season mat of around 50mmm thickness is more than enough. 

One other option – and a great one if you have the storage space in your vehicle – is a camp cot. Well, really, it’s a fold-up bed that gets the sleeper off the ground and can offer more comfort – but they are fantastic if you are planning on camping at one location for more than a few nights. The other advantage is that, due to these cots being higher off the ground, it’s easier to get up/down from bed. Or is that just our, ahem, slightly advanced age talking there…

The outdoor chef

No matter what outdoor activity you’re into, if you’re out in the bush for more than a day you’ll eventually need to cook something to eat. While making fire is one option, it’s not always practical, advisable, possible or even legal. What you’ll need then is a camp stove – and there are a few types worth considering.

Box stove

One of the most popular camp stoves is the single- and double-burner butane variety, sometimes referred to as a lunch-box style cooker. With prices starting from less than $20, and features such as a convenient disposable butane cartridge, Piezo ignition and a compact plastic carry case for easy transportation, it’s little wonder these things can be found in just about every campsite around the country.

A butane stove is a reliable and safe option – especially for those folks who may only go camping a few times a year. Another positive is that refill canisters are readily available at camping store, service stations and supermarkets.

These stoves offer excellent simmer/boil control, allowing the camp chef to create any type of meal with a bit of time and patience. Models to look for should ideally have enough space between burners to allow for medium sized pots/pans; there’s nothing worse than a ‘two-burner’ model that can only fit one decent-sized pan/pot on it. This is why we recommend a reputable brand stove, with the Dune 4WD Dual Butane Stove a great example, and others from Spinifex and Coleman that are also worth a look. 

Another reason to opt for reputable brands only is to ensure utmost safety. When these stove-types first arrived on the market, there were several incidents resulting in injuries. The main issue with problematic models was found to be a faulty safety-release mechanism, which is designed to eject the butane canister when it overheats. As the canister is located right alongside the cooking area, overheating of the canister is not uncommon, and can be caused by using an oversize pan which can reflect heat back towards the canister. This also means you, as the owner of the stove, should be sure not to ‘overload’ the stove with too large a pan. It sounds more dramatic than it is – it just takes a bit of commonsense, but it also brings us around to a second reminder to purchase a well-known, reputable brand of stove in this instance.

LPG stoves

If you have the storage space in your vehicle to carry it (or a roof-rack), a bottle-gas stove is a great way to cook, and there’s a huge range of models and sizes available, from single-burner units to four-burner set-ups that would rival your home BBQ for cooking performance.

The gas bottles are filled with LPG (Liquefied Petroleum Gas), which is a combination of butane and propane, and there are a variety of reason to opt for such a fuel: the bottles are refillable; it’s a cheap fuel; it can be purchased at most service stations; gas bottles range in size from 1kg to 9kg; LPG offers loads of cooking power; it’s a proven and robust set-up.

The gas bottles themselves have a lifespan of 10 years, after which they must be inspected and re-stamped, or replaced altogether. Depending on the stove type, the gas cylinder is either connected directly or via a governor. 

The simplest gas stoves consist of a burner that attaches to the top of the gas bottle. Other direct-connect designs offer large cooking plates and posts, which raise the cooking surface to a more convenient height. A popular and relatively compact set-up is the traditional two-burner gas stove (the Spinifex 2 Burner compact stove is an example). This design has been around for many years; it packs away into a small, self-contained briefcase-size unit and when unfolded it has legs and the lid and side panels act as wind buffers. Another excellent example is the Companion Outdoor Proheat 2 Burner Stove (read our review, here).

If you opt for a gas bottle set-up, there are a variety of other outdoor accessories that can be powered by the same fuel source, including camp lighting and three-way portable fridge/ freezers. If you have the space, it’s always advisable to carry a spare gas bottle with you – after all, they only ever run out of gas when you’re using them.

The campfire

If there’s one thing in your camping life you must do at some point, it is to cook on an open fire. This is not always easy in Australia for the obvious reasons of bushfire risk and the lack of available firewood (please don’t even think to cut down a tree for your fire; green wood doesn’t burn, and it is – obviously – incredibly irresponsible). All that aside, in the proper conditions and season, cooking over an open fire at camp is brilliant. A lot of national parks campsites do supply fire rings these days that have post-mount swing-away arms to hang pots and kettles and you can purchase firewood for your trip if needed. 

In terms of what to cook with, a fold-out cast-iron hot plate is brilliant to use and works very effectively in tandem with those swing-away pot/kettle holders found in the aforementioned national parks fire rings. You can also purchase a similar setup for when you are in more remote areas, bush camping. As well as these products, a cast-iron camp oven is an absolute must we reckon for fire-based cooking. Using one of these to cook meat and/or vegetables (or a stew) is another Aussie bush camping experience that you must have – plus, the resulting cooked meal is simply brilliant.

Food storage

When it comes to food storage, there are two choices: the ubiquitous Esky packed with ice to keep your food fresh, or –if you have the space – a portable fridge-freezer. The Esky is ideal for weekend trips where there is a shop nearby to top up on ice, but for anything longer than that, a portable fridge-freezer is a must, with these units available in a number of sizes/capacity, from 30 litres up to a monstrous 125L. This does, however, mean buying a power-pack or, in the case of a 4WD, perhaps fitting a dual-battery system. You can power a fridge from a car’s auxiliary 12V connection but be aware they draw enough power to flatten a battery in a day. It sounds like a hassle but, having been on several multi-week outback expeditions, I can tell you they’re simply the best option.

Camp cookware

The cookware you use will be governed by storage space, durability, ease of use, etc. For this writer, my go-to cookware is stainless steel or cast-iron. This is purely due to my preferred camping being fully remote, which means you need gear that doesn’t fail. For weekend camping trips, we have a separate kitchen box filled with aluminium cookware and light plastic plates, bowls and mugs, along with a smaller stove and a pared-down menu that suits this setup. In short, it comes down to your menu preference when camping. Some folks love the full three-course dinner, and will no doubt choose their cookware based on that, while others will be happy to get back to basics over the weekend away. 

Camp lighting and power

Gas, fluoro and LED – you’ll find all three of these lighting types at campsites around Oz. Currently, lighting technology is focused on bang for your buck in regard to how much “throw” (how much area coverage the light has) a particular lighting system possesses. This basically means how much area coverage a light has. Historically, gas lights have been the best illuminators when it comes to lighting up campsites, but they are also the least energy-efficient due to the amount of heat they give off (heat loss from a light is wasted energy) when compared to “cooler” lighting technologies, such as fluorescent and LED (Light Emitting Diode).  

In terms of hi-tech developments, it is mostly in LED lighting, as manufacturers try and simplify the complex construction process of LED lighting (to reduce consumer costs) while also figuring out how to boost the LEDs’ wide-area lighting capacity, its main disadvantage compared to gas and fluoro lights. LED lighting still lags well behind the other two lighting options when it comes to amount of light thrown but, with its many positives – it can be made into strips of any length, or clusters; it has a low power draw – LED lighting continues to see plenty of hi-tech investment from manufacturers, which is a win-win for campers. LED (Light Emitting Diode) lighting is considered the primary choice for outdoor activities in general and especially for vehicle-based camping. The negatives are few but include the fact that LEDs require battery power, so you’ll still need spare batteries or charging facilities for longer trips. 

For some, the tried-and-true gaslights, running off a portable gas bottle, are preferred. The reason for this is not only excellent lighting capacity but also the fact the gas bottle fulfils the double-duty ethos of car-based camping, as it also powers your camp stove(s). Brands such as Coleman have a wide range of gas-based lighting options. The negatives of gaslights are the fact the mandibles (the pipes connecting the light to the gas) are fragile and, if broken, cannot be easily repaired, hence the need to take spares. Of course, you’ll use more gas with a gaslight, so you’ll need to carry a bigger/extra gas bottle.

You can, of course, just use head- and hand-torches around camp. In some ways this is both easier and ensures your camp lighting source takes up minimal space. With the amazing outputs of some head- and hand-torches these days (they are primarily LED-based), you really don’t need any more lighting; most use will revolve around night-time camp duties such as cooking and eating, as well as the odd sojourn to the toilets or vehicle. Being head-mounted and thus directional, a head-torch is our favourite camp lighting option – we always have four of them in our vehicle. 

Campsite power

Anything electrical will need power and yes, that is stating the bleeding obvious. Portable power options – solar-, electrical- or fuel-based – are more efficient than even those of five years ago, thanks to continued technological improvements in efficient power draw (with less of the actual power lost during draw) and overall reliability in operation. There has also been increased focus on offering more from less, in terms of the size of the actual powering unit and its power output. Whether it is fold- or roll-up solar panels, a more fuel-efficient (and quieter) generator, or more powerful – but also more compact – battery-based power packs, there’s been plenty of technical investment focused on reducing the physical footprint of portable power. A more compact power source that does the same job as that 10-year old, leviathan-like gennie, will always win out.

Portable solar power has seen the fastest expansion in the market, due to improvements in the technology that result in ease of use, as well as making the solar panels (whether solid or foldable) smaller in size.  Whether you opt for a solar panel affixed to the roof of your vehicle or trailer, a fold-out panel that you can set up on a stand or a solar blanket you can lay across the bonnet or windscreen, you’ll need to ensure it has enough output to meet your power requirements. You’ll also need to make sure it’s equipped with a regulator to safely charge your vehicle’s battery, smart battery box or power pack, and that it comes with a long enough cable to reach your batteries charging input.

A dual-battery system is a brilliant accessory to fit to your vehicle (primarily a 4WD, due to space needed). But, if your vehicle doesn’t have space for a traditional dual battery system, or you want a backup power option that is portable, a battery box is an option worth checking out These boxes are designed to accept a variety of battery types and they can be hard wired to the vehicle’s electrical system or in some cases plugged in to a 12V power outlet. Some can also be charged from a 240V mains source and others feature external battery terminals for charging, as well as Anderson plug inputs for charging via solar panels, which are a handy feature.

Smart battery boxes offer a combination of power outlets including USB ports, 12V DC ports and, if fitted with a built-in inverter, 240V AC outlets. Some also incorporate a smart DC to DC charger, power management display and a low-voltage cut-out to prevent accidental drainage of the starting battery.

Portable power packs are similar to smart battery boxes but feature built-in batteries, usually of the AGM or Lithium variety. Most portable power packs will offer charging via a 240V mains source, 12V DC or Anderson plug (for solar panel input), and have outputs including 12V accessory plugs, USB ports and merit sockets. Other features will include a voltage/amperage display, low battery warning (light and alarm) and overload protection.

There are power packs on the market ranging from 33Ah capacity to over 100Ah. AGM power packs around the 44Ah capacity cost around $400, while Lithium power packs of the same capacity can cost more than $1000. 

Whether you opt for a solar panel affixed to the roof of your vehicle or trailer, a fold-out panel that you can set up on a stand or a solar blanket you can lay across the bonnet or windscreen, you’ll need to ensure it has enough output to meet your power requirements. You’ll also need to make sure it’s equipped with a regulator to safely charge your vehicle’s battery, smart battery box or power pack, and that it comes with a long enough cable to reach your batteries charging input.

Camping with kids

It will be the biggest adventure of their young lives – and you can start it from whatever age. Heading out bush for the first time with your children for some camping is a pretty exciting – and slightly daunting – prospect. But the rewards can be many; instilling a love for camping and the Aussie bush in your kids when they are young and impressionable (and still listen to you) is one of the best things you can do. It also provides the perfect excuse to get out and explore this country. All it takes is a bit more planning. Here are 10 tips for creating camp-loving kids.

1. Be prepared: If anything is going to ruin that first camping trip with your children, it is a lack of preparation. It sounds amusing (well, I thought so until I had kids of my own) but the best way to prep for the first trip is – no, really – to treat it like a military operation. And that starts with researching the whole ‘camping with kids’ thing (and ask other parents!).

2. It’s about the gear: Bring them along with you when sourcing their camping gear. This is a great way for your kids to feel more involved in the whole bush-camping process, even before you’ve headed out. Knowing they have been a part of selecting their own gear “especially for camping” immediately invests them in the upcoming adventure.             

3. The shelter: The bush accommodation option you go for will depend on the age of your kids. For the real little’uns (from toddler to around six years of age) a large tent or camper-trailer is the best bet. Everyone under the same roof reassures the young first-timers at night and adds to the adventure as they’re sleeping right next to mum and dad. Whether you go tent or camper-trailer, however, make sure it includes a large vestibule/covered area – or take an additional tarp. Nothing will kill the fun of that bush camping adventure more quickly than a day or so of rain, with parents and children all couped up in a small space. Having large covered areas does double-duty for not only rainy weather, but also as a space in which to store kids’ toys, the Esky/fridge-freezer, dining tables and more. It is also very handy on particularly hot summer days to ensure you and the kids don’t cop sunburn (of course, pack sunscreen as well). For older kids, separate tents (a hiking tent, for example) are worth checking out. 

4. Bring the toys: What toys/gear you do bring for your kids to keep them occupied will be governed by where you plan on camping. However, there are a few things we’d suggest as absolute essentials for that first camping trip. Digital cameras are dirt-cheap these days; on her first outback camping trip our daughter was given a small digital camera and loved it – she blazed away taking photos the entire trip. It didn’t matter in the slightest that the photos were sometimes blurry or tilted, she was having a great time recording her first outback adventure. I lost track of the number of times I heard “Dad, can you wind down the window so I can take photos?” but I never got sick of it; obviously it was something she was enjoying, and it related back to the whole experience. Other ‘toys’ we’d recommend include a head-torch (for around camp at night), binoculars (spotting wildlife) and a diary.      

5. Ease into it: It would be awesome to head straight out into the desert or tropics for your first bush-camping trip with the kids, but if there’s one part of the whole preparation process that needs a bit of extra attention, it is where to go first. For that initial experience, we’d recommend a caravan park/campground, and be sure to stick close to home, just in case it all goes pear-shaped. Opting for your first camp to be near home covers any unforeseen eventualities, whether it is your kids freaking out, or that the weather turns and you don’t want their first camp memory to be of crap weather. It also allows you to fine-tune your camp set-up without the pressure of having to move on to another campsite the next day. Next, try a few weekends of camping in nearby national parks – it is the best way to give your kids that initial taste of bush camping, while also figuring out if your set-up is working how it should. Once you’ve nailed the camp set-up, then you can look to longer camping trips to more distant locations, knowing that no matter where you go, the potentially stressful part of camping – setting up at camp – will be nearly eliminated.             

6. Keep it simple: Some people may think that a family camping destination has to have plenty to occupy the kids, but this would be doing them a disservice. You’ll be surprised how easily they can be occupied with exploring the area around camp. And this is where bush camping – as opposed to caravan parks – is a real winner. Simply being in a remote location, whether desert, high country, or the tropics, will be amazing enough for kids – especially once they start wandering around checking everything out in their new surrounds. From “that big rock over there” to a bird’s nest in a low-lying shrub that the parents have not seen, kids will soon find things to keep them occupied in the natural environment. Speaking of which…

7. Keep them busy: It’s dead-easy to pack little’uns a small daypack (and one for yourself) and head out for a quick bushwalk, jump on the bikes for a ride further along the tracks or, if you’ve got one, float down that river in your canoe. Once you are at camp, you can involve kids in the setting up (rolling out their own sleeping bags and setting up beds is a winner), plus extra duties/activities, such as collecting firewood.          

8. Outdoor education: Being at camp also means you can teach kids some essential around-camp rules; ensuring they are fire-aware (don’t go near the camp fire), river/waterways educated, but also to remember  to zip up the tent fly, stay away from snakes/spiders/creepy-crawlies, avoid tent guy-lines so as not to trip, and to help with the washing up of plates after dinner (this always seem more ‘fun’ for kids at camp than at home!). All of this immerses them in the camping culture where everyone pitches in to get jobs done so they can get back to the main purpose of having plenty of fun.   

9. Don’t rush: One thing we’d definitely recommend (although it’s not always possible) is to try and stay more than one night at each camp. This is where those who have previously travelled adults-only will notice the biggest difference: your daily driving/travelling times will be significantly shortened. Little people can only stand being in a vehicle for short periods at a time, so stopping more regularly to stretch legs, give them more food, change nappies etc., should be factored into your plan. Staying a few nights at one campsite also means everyone is not constantly on the move, driving, and no-one becomes overly tired and/or irritable.   

10. Return on investment: Camping with kids can be a big job. If you’d asked this writer nine or so years ago (pre-kids) what I thought of the whole idea I would have shaken my head, and simply said “No”. But that was sheer ignorance. When I look at the many benefits – for kids and parents – that camping offers, it’s hard to find a negative. Even the daunting prospect of that first “test” bush-camping trip can be viewed in a positive light: it gets you out there, in the awesome Aussie bush, regardless of the fact you will probably spend half of it cursing your tent/camper-trailer choice and wondering where the hell Item #54 from your camp gear list has disappeared to. It gets better fast, and by focussing on how much fun camping is for everyone each time you head out, your kids will come to see it as an integral part of growing up. Just get ready for the nagging: even a few years after our big NT desert camping trip, we’re still being bombarded weekly with this: “When are we going out to the desert again, dad?” I can think of far worse questions to be asked.

Carrying your camping gear

It’s a satisfying feeling; placing that last bit of gear in the back of your vehicle or up on the roof racks, then twisting the key to start the engine, and heading off on your family’s camping adventure.

Well, it is satisfying if you’ve managed to pack all the essential gear you need for where you are going – and you’ve also loaded up the ‘extras’ that will guarantee a memorable time away. It is this conundrum that faces vehicle-based adventurers who want to add extra activities, whether in the form of watercraft if you’re camping near the river or ocean, or bike and hike gear for that wheel- or foot-borne foray. So, to pack everything in without exceeding the legal Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) figure of your car (basically the total additional weight a vehicle is legally permitted to carry; this includes everything – and yes, that means passengers as well) you need a plan.

The key to a stress-free and fun camping trip is to keep it simple. By that I mean not only in what you want to do when you’re away, but also in what you take along with you. You also need to be aware of expected weather conditions (always a toughie to pick). 

When we are planning a family getaway, we try and pack as light (and compact) as possible, regardless of the season, allowing each family member one large (70-90L) duffel bag in which to store all their clothing, and then focus on the essentials: a good shelter, adequate clothing, cooking equipment and sleeping gear. 

It is here, with the essentials, that you can save the most space – and weight. A family-sized tent no longer has to be a heavy, bulky thing that takes two adults to lift on to the roof racks or to unpack/pack, and the same goes for cooking equipment and bedding. 

With a huge variety of roof rack and tow hitch-based carrying systems on the market, it is now second-nature to load up the bicycles, kayaks or canoes to add another dimension to your family’s camping trip. There are roof-based carrying systems for all vehicle types, whether small hatchbacks or serious outback-ready 4WDs.

For water-based activities, fitting a watercraft-carrying system to your vehicle is a no-brainer. Brands such as Yakima offer a number of systems designed to carry your kayak(s) or canoe that are easily attached to your roof-racks (or the bed of your ute), making loading said watercraft easy. The same goes for those who prefer extracurricular camping activities based around pedal-power. A family of four means a lot of bikes, but with four-bike carriers readily available for towball or hitch attachments it is, again, too easy. We drive a compact SUV and utilise a hitch-mount bike carrier and roof-mounted luggage pod to ensure every camping trip includes partaking in our favourite outdoor activities. 

If you’re looking at that around-Oz adventure, and you own a 4WD wagon or ute, another load-carrying accessory worth investing in is a cargo drawer system. These fantastically handy systems – we’d opt for a two-drawer system with a fridge slide on top – allow you to store bulky camping gear (think: tents, lighting, stoves, spare parts, air compressors, puncture repair kit, etc.) in one drawer and your food in the other. Adding the fridge slide means easy access to food and cold drinks from inside your fridge-freezer. For those who own a station wagon or hatchback, we’d recommend setting up some type of system based around plastic boxes that can hold your camping equipment and food, and also leaving space for the Esky. 

The final word

Yep, there’s plenty of advice to work through here. Hopefully, you’ve got to the end, absorbed it all, and then started planning for that great family escape. Believe us when we say all that hard work initially, working your way through the local Anaconda store (or other outdoor retail outlets) to source all your gear, doing short trips away with the kids to get them used to camping, will pay you and yours back in spades. Spending nights in the Australian outdoors is a privilege, and loads of fun with it. Plus, it’s a privilege we can all experience. Now get out there!

The post The Great Escape: All you need to know for the ultimate camping trip appeared first on Australian Geographic.

There’s no argument with the warmth they offer the wearer, but the humble insulated jacket is far more than just a winter accessory – it’s actually one of the no-arguments, first packed items of apparel for any outdoor enthusiast and can be used across more than just the winter season.

A specific job task

The insulated jacket is designed specifically to do just that: keep you insulated (read: warm). The key to an insulated jacket’s effectiveness is in its fill. This is, as the name suggests, the natural (in the form of down) or synthetic (polyester, for example) fibre that ‘fills’ the space in-between the outer shell fabric and the inner liner fabric. 

The jackets (whether of down or synthetic fill) work to provide warmth by trapping your body heat within tiny air pockets created by the fibres/strands of fill. As an example, one ounce of down can have more than two million filaments, which thus creates a huge amount of tiny air pockets that trap your body heat. 

Related: Mountain Designs Peak 700 jacket: Tested

Yep, that’s a bit of heavy-duty tech to digest, but it leads directly on to the next question of which type of fill – natural or synthetic – works best? As usual, there’s no definitive answer, but here goes…

Fill us in: Down vs synthetic

Down: For those after the best warmth-to-weight performance, it’s hard to beat nature, with down (either duck or goose down, or a mix of both) the winner. Down provides more warmth per gram due to its compressibility and thus the sheer number of air pockets produced between each fibre, which means these jackets can be quite light while offering plenty of warmth. If properly cared for, down should also last longer, too, recouping some of the initial higher outlay in price. 

Important to note with down is to look for its ‘fill power’ number, also often referred to as its ‘fill index’ (usually a number ranging from 300 to up to 1000). This number translates to how much space one ounce of down takes up in cubic inches. Thus, a jacket with an 800-fill power figure will be warmer than one of a lower number, due to the fact the 800-fill down takes up more space (i.e., it is ‘fluffier’ or ‘puffier’ for want of better descriptions) and thus has more air pockets for your body heat to warm up. 

There are negatives to down, starting with its aversion to moisture; if down gets wet, it gets ‘stuck together’ and can no longer ‘loft’, thus not providing any air pockets for warm air to fill (note that there are ‘water-resistant’ down-fill products out there, which are the result of the down itself being treated by a Durable Water Repellent coating at a micro scale). There are also some insulated jackets that will primarily be of down-fill but will also include synthetic-fill in high-wear/high-moisture areas (such as the shoulders) to alleviate the impact of water.

The other negative is the fact that, whether goose- or duck-down, it is a by-product of these birds being raised as food, primarily. Note that most outdoor brands utilise ethical production of down and only use down from these sources, so check for a RDS (Responsible Down Standard) or Global Traceable Down Standard label. In terms of recycling and environmental impact, down is a natural fibre, so will disintegrate quickly, with no adverse effect on the environment.

Synthetic: Although these are generally ‘heavier’ for an equivalent warmth rating, a synthetic-fill insulated jacket usually offers more resistance to water and, even when wet, will provide a modicum of warmth (unlike down). The asking price of a synthetic-fill insulated jacket is generally cheaper across the board, too, while new technology has resulted in some synthetic fibre now being engineered to actually ‘breathe’ during strenuous activity, reducing the potential for a build-up of moisture (sweat) between you and the jacket’s inner. Brands such as Patagonia and The North Face offer jackets of this type.

As with down, there are some negatives with synthetic-fill jackets, starting with the fact a synthetic-fill jacket will not compress – or pack down – as compact as a down equivalent, so will invariably take up a bit more space in your pack. More notably, synthetic fibre is a by-product of petroleum products, i.e., fossil fuels. Plus, the synthetic fibre takes a lot longer to disintegrate, and can end up in landfill – or, worse – in the ocean.

Regardless of the fill material – whether synthetic or down – if you do think you no longer need your insulated jacket, or that it does not perform as you expect, do the right thing and recycle it (or donate it to a charity/op-shop).

Essential features of an insulated jacket

Besides the type of fill – and how much of it – there are a number of other features to look for in an insulated jacket. This starts with fit and length; in cold weather, there is nothing worse than raising your arms up to grab something/climb higher and exposing your lower back to the cold. A jacket with a hip-length hem, or one that has a drop-hem at the back, is ideal, as it protects that part of your body no matter how ‘active’ you are when wearing it. Articulation (freedom of movement of the arms, shoulders, etc.) is also a key feature and, again, can easily be tested by moving your arms around up and down to see if the jacket lifts up to expose your torso to the elements.

For further warming capacity, you can opt for a jacket with a hood and, if you’re an alpine adventurer, make sure that hood can also fit a helmet underneath it. Other features to look for include an adjustable hem (with easy to reach draw-cord) and an equally easy to reach/adjust draw-cord for the hood and/or collar. A free-flowing zip that does not snag on the jacket’s inner is a no-brainer, and make sure the zip toggles are large to allow for easy manipulation when wearing gloves. Two front – and deep – pockets with inner fleece are ideal, while an inner zip compartment is very handy, too. Most insulated jackets have a stow-bag, allowing you to compress it for storage in a backpack – these are great.

Boxes, baffles and chambers: Insulated jacket construction methods

The fill of an insulated jacket is held inside ‘chambers‘ between the outer and inner layers of the jacket. This chamber or ‘channel’ can be created in a few different ways. One of the most common is where the outer and inner layer fabrics are stitched through, thus creating that ‘channel’ or chamber which is then filled with down or synthetic fill.

Another method is known as the box baffle, where the insulation is held in small chambers which are separate boxes (hence the name) created by fabric walls. Insulated jackets featuring this type of construction can be slightly heavier, owing to the additional fabric needed to create these boxes. This also makes them, in general, comparatively more expensive. 

The third method is one that uses fabric welding or bonding, with the outer and inner layers joined by a heating process. There are no stitches in these jackets, so they can be warmer, due to no small holes for any heat to escape through. This also ups the wind- and water-resistant qualities of jackets featuring this type of construction.

The final word on the insulated jacket

So, there you go; there’s a lot more to that ‘cool’ puffer jacket than you may have first thought. There’s also no real clear winner in the synthetic vs natural fill argument, either, with both offering positives and negatives. Years ago, the answer to anyone asking for the ‘best insulated jacket’ would be steered toward a down-fill version but with the advancement of synthetic-fill technology, this answer is not so readily reached.

This writer has an original The North Face Thermoball (synthetic-fill) insulated jacket that has seen use for more than 10 years, during a cold Northern Hemisphere spring kayak expedition and a NZ ice-climbing adventure, through to chilly outback winters on a 4WD camping trip. I also own a (very) lightweight down-fill jacket which has seen similar service, but mostly when on multi-day treks, where weight and packed size is of primary importance. In short, these days, as long as you take care of your insulated jacket, you’ll get many years of reliable (and warm!) service from it.

In the end, the final choice of insulated jacket for you will come down to what your specific needs are for the conditions in which you find yourself most when in the outdoors – plus your budget. See Arc’teryx, Kathmandu, Macpac, Mountain Designs, The North Face and Patagonia for a wide range of insulated jacket options from these outdoor brands.

The post Winter is coming: All you need to know about puffer jackets appeared first on Australian Geographic.

I headed down to check out the first ever lesson of the Young at Heart program late last year. The last 45 minutes of my three-and-a-bit hour drive was a white-knuckle ride as I battled to avoid the worst of the potholes. The Eurobodalla Coast is about four hours south of Sydney and, like much of New South Wales, had experienced record-breaking rains and the roads showed the damage. 

As a result, Mossy Point’s Tomaga River, literally lapping at the doorstep of the Region X headquarters, wasn’t its usual crystal-clear colour. Instead, it resembled something closer to a strong cup of tea. But despite all that, Mossy Point is beautiful, wild but with a tranquillity to it, and it’s easy to see why it is such a popular holiday destination for Canberra residents (it’s only two-ish hours from the nation’s capital) and, increasingly, Sydneysiders, too. Locals sit around in BYO camping chairs, drinking coffee, and chatting. Huge, steel-grey smooth rays patrol the water’s edge, unworried by the local dogs bouncing around them, waiting for the scraps as the fisherman clean their haul. 

An unexpected lesson

When I arrive, David Decorte, in his wide brim hat and sunglasses looking every bit the guide that he is, asks, “Have you got 10 minutes to actually go through a little program? We’ll put you in a lifejacket and out on the water?” It seemed an innocent enough question and so I nodded, pretending that I was game for anything when I was most certainly not game for anything. Around me, a dozen or so people milled about smiling and chatting, their faces flushed, their eyes sparkling. They’d all just completed their first two-hour lesson and not only seemed to have survived but were buzzing from the experience.

I scanned his face for a reaction as I sheepishly asked, “Which end of the kayak is the front? Is it the pointy end?” If he was having second thoughts, he didn’t show it. And so, I sat with a thump and a wobble on the sit-on-top kayak, all the while practicing some deep-breathing so I wouldn’t drop everything and run in the opposite direction. I kept one eye on those who had just finished their lesson, as they grabbed coffees and each other’s details. 

Honestly, they just didn’t look like the kind of people I had expected to find at a program aimed at seniors. They appeared fearless or at least happy to face their fears head on. They clearly were keen to try new things. They did not look ‘old’. At least, not in the way I had thought older people looked. There was some grey hair, sure. One or two wrinkles. But there were no hobbled bodies. No walkers or canes tucked off to the side. No one was hunched over, clutching at their backs. In fact, they all looked a hell of a lot healthier than I did. Turns out, I had a bit of perception problem. Not only of what I thought aging looked like, but also how it feels and how it affects the things you can do. 

As I’d find out, quite a few of these folks were already quite fit and participating in other sports. At 63, Annie Lovebrand only had one leisurely, guided paddle under her belt, but was an avid daily ocean swimmer saying, “I am now healthier and fitter than I have been for years … I love the ocean and want to try something that challenged me. I wanted to learn something new.” 

Trish Brodie, one of the youngest participants at 58, already paddled on a semi-regular basis so she was initially hoping to increase her skills and to try out some different vessels but there was something else as well. “I don’t want to be scared for the next 10-20 years … I don’t want to be sitting on the sidelines wondering if I could have done that,” she explains.

Programmed for success

The Young at Heart program was the brainchild of guide and Operations Manager, Garran Carnall. If I liked using cliches, which I don’t, I’d say his middle name is ‘Adventure’. But it’s not. It’s Neal. But he does love an outdoor activity, and aside from guiding with Region X, he’s been both a scuba and mountain bike instructor. Based in the Eurobodalla, he spends much of his time soaking in the local flora and fauna and learning about the history of the region. But he noticed that there was a whole segment of the local population who just weren’t taking advantage of the area or their time. He says, “I was sitting around in a cafe with my mum and dad and I was watching all of these senior, retired people and I was going, ‘They’re not doing anything. They need to get out.”

And by ‘get out’, Garran means, go all out. This is a course entailing six two-to-three-hour lessons, that takes folks in their 50s, 60s and older, most of them kayak novices, and teaches them not just the basics so that they can go on a leisurely paddle and explore the local region, but that has them creating makeshift sails from tarps, performing rescue drills and managing some seriously challenging weather. No cancelled classes for choppy weather here. 

What really stands out for 67-year-old Sherryn Bellis, is the rescue drills. “We learnt how to save others in distress, how to get back into our kayak if we fell out. This involved being tipped out in the middle of the river” she says. “It also made us realise we are stronger than we think we are and can do things we all thought were beyond us.”

“Everybody needed to know what it is like to have to rescue themselves or rescue others,” Garran explains. “The rescue day was a huge day, and it wasn’t easy for everyone, but everyone was happy that they got to do it and learn some valuable skills.”

As to why he’d create such an intensive course, it makes sense when you learn a bit more about the people who raised him. His dad already paddles a kayak, and Garran says his mum was part of the inspiration for the program. “I taught my mum to scuba dive at the age of 60 and she’s a left leg amputee. And she’s been to places where she’s gone through shipwrecks, caves and she just paddles through. She’s done some amazing trips and that’s what gave me the idea to say, you can do this, doesn’t matter what age you are. You can get out there and do some really cool stuff.”

Age shall not weary them

While the idea of doing cool stuff sounds good, bodies, even very healthy bodies, do slow down with age. There’s the expected aches and pains and injuries acquired over the years. Garran says the low impact nature of the sport and the ability to choose your location makes it a sport for everybody, literally. “Doesn’t matter if you’ve got a disability or not, you can paddle. Or you can go out and be with someone who can paddle. It’s inclusive for everybody.”

Annie says, “Most of us had various bits that didn’t work as well as when we were younger – backs, shoulders, etc., but Garran suggested ways to negotiate these issues.” Trish, whose own father is 94 and still lives at home, mowing his lawn and chopping his own wood says, “He’s a really good model of someone who pushes himself to what he thinks he can do, not what he can’t do anymore. He still chops wood, but he doesn’t chop it like he did 20 years ago… He says, ‘I have to keep adapting things’.”

And maybe that’s the trick. When I finished up my short paddle with David, I ended up looking and feeling like I expected the older participants would. I was hobbled over and clutching at my back. I felt like I couldn’t do it; that kayaking wasn’t for me. But having spoken to Annie and Trish and Sherryn, I’m thinking of giving it another try, albeit with an adaptation or two, and an overall change in attitude. “Our time here is not infinite,” Annie says. “Seizing these opportunities especially as we age, gives us the opportunity to feel joy in our natural surroundings as well as a sense of achievement in rising to a challenge that we may have doubted we could do.” 

Fact Box

Getting there: The Eurobodalla Coast region runs from South Durras in the north to Tilba in the south and includes popular tourist towns, such as Batemans Bay, Nelligen, Broulee, Moruya, Narooma, Bodalla, Tuross Head, Dalmeny and Tilba. Mossy Point, next-door to Broulee, is around 4.5 hours’ drive from Sydney (via the Princes Highway), or approximately 2.5hrs from Canberra (via the Kings Highway, then Princes Highway).

Best time to go: Summer is peak tourist season on the Eurobodalla, but its temperate climate makes it an all-year destination for outdoor enthusiasts. 

Paddling: Kayak, canoe or SUP, there is plenty of paddling on offer here, thanks to the region’s four river systems, 83 beaches and 20 lakes.

Region X: Josh and Kate Waterson run Region X and, along with their experienced guides, offer a true one-stop shop for a wide variety of kayak adventures and classes in the Eurobodalla region. From half- to full-day (and longer) paddling trips, to expert tuition, to camping trips and hiking adventures, Region X has something for any visitor.

The post Young at heart, strong in mind: A kayak school for the ages appeared first on Australian Geographic.

To pare it down, bikepacking is the bicycle-based equivalent of ‘backpacking’, where you load all your required food, shelter and gear on to your bike (as compared to in a backpack), in specialised bags that attach to your frame, your seat-post, handlebars and (in some cases) your front forks, and venture into the wilds. Bikepacking takes you further, following fire-trails, stock routes or – even more fun – singletrack, through wild and remote parts of the world, camping along the way and covering more distance than you’d ever hope to if you were hiking. 

Yeah, it’s awesome fun. In fact, we reckon – with honesty borne from our own (and others’) experiences – that it’s close to the most fun you can have on a bicycle or, indeed, in the outdoors, full-stop. Impressively, bikepacking is easily accessible to anyone that can ride, and it isn’t that hard to get a set-up sorted that allows you to explore. Happily, that means that, even though there is some bikepacking-specific gear you will need, it is not as much as you think, thus keeping costs down. And yep, that includes the bike…

THE BIKEPACKING MACHINE

“Run wot ya brung” is the pared-down explanation as to which bike is ‘best’ for bikepacking. The simple fact is that there’s no one ‘best’ type of bike; it will depend on the route(s) you plan on riding. Generally, the bikepacking rig of choice is down to two or three types: the hardtail mountain bike, the gravel bike, or the dual-suspension MTB, and made from either steel, aluminium or carbon-fibre.  

Steel is probably the most popular frame material for bikepacking-specific bikes. This is due to its inherent strength, ride quality and ease of repair. Carbon-fibre brings plenty of strength but also fragility, with sharp impacts having the ability to ‘crack’ a frame – and it is not easy (and is very expensive) to repair. A carbon-fibre frame will be lighter than a steel or aluminium equivalent. Aluminium is light, and it is cheap, but you will cop a jarring ride and it is not as easy to repair as steel. Titanium combines the best of steel’s forgiving ride, with the light weight of aluminium and carbon-fibre and will last nearly forever. But it’s bloody expensive, and very difficult to repair.

The gravel bike

While a gravel bike might cut a similar silhouette to a road bike, the presence of drop bars is just about where the parallels end. Gravel bikes have longer wheelbases for stability, far bigger tyre clearance and a more upright riding position with wider bars as comfort takes precedence over aerodynamics. You’ll also find more water bottle mounts and rooms for fenders and frame bags. As with the hardtail MTB, the gravel bike frame can be made from steel, aluminium, or carbon-fibre. For the well-off, there are titanium-frame options. 

For a lot of riders, the gravel bike is the ideal bikepacking rig; for most Aussie routes, you are riding on dirt roads and fire-trails in the main and these lightweight mile-munching machines, with their 700c wheels size ( you can use wider 650b hoops as well) are perfect for that. And, you can definitely still rail singletrack on them – yeah, it’s a hoot.

The hardtail MTB

A hardtail mountain bike, whether it is one with rigid front forks or front suspension forks, is a popular bikepacking rig. These, along with gravel bikes, offer the most frame ‘real estate’ for your bike-bags (more on these later) thanks to having no space taken up on the frame by a rear shock. No rear shock also means they are relatively simple mechanically, too. If the majority of your bikepacking is fire trails and singletrack, they offer a more comfortable and safer ride, due to their construction, than, say, a gravel bike. 

They are equally at ease on sealed and unsealed surfaces. The MTB’s more upright riding position and wide tyres aid comfort over longer distances, and you can add bar-ends to your handlebars for more hand-position options.

The dual-suspension MTB

The ‘dually’ may seem a surprise choice as a third rig option. With the complexity of an additional shock, plus the associated links and bushes and the fact that the rear shock robs the frame of bag-space, you’d think it’d be ‘too much trouble’. However, for gnarlier adventures – NZ’s Paparoa Track and Old Ghost Road are two examples – where the terrain is uneven, loose, steep and rocky, the ability of the dual-suspension MTB to deliver a comfortable and safe ride is its main party trick. 

Yes, you will lose bike-bag space, but you still have the usual bag options, they will just have less volume, and there are also some nifty cargo-carrying options, such as Aeroe’s Spider Rear Rack, Handlebar Cradle and accessories (see our review of this set-up, here). As long as your bike has been well serviced, there’s no reason that a dual-suspension MTB of yours can’t do double service It’s all about compromise in bikepacking.

Wheels and tyres for bikepacking

Wheels and tyres on your bikepacking rig are governed, in the main, by what type of bike you opt to use. For MTB-based riders, the two most popular wheel options today are 27.5-inch (also known as 650B) and 29-inch. You will still find hundreds of thousands of secondhand MTBs with the ‘old’ 26-inch wheel and, if your bikepacking goals tend to global, out-of-the-way destinations, a 26er is a viable option, owing to the fact that wheel size was the only MTB size up until the early 2000s. Since then, both 29 and 27.5 have become the sizes of choice, with 29-inch wheels the preferred of the two, owing to the larger rolling diameter and thus efficiency, at the slight expense (compared to 27.5) of nimbleness. Nearly all of today’s MTBs and gravel bikes run through-axles, rather than the old ‘quick-release’ systems, as this increases strength and stability of the wheel. For tyre widths, we’d recommend between 2.25- and 2.6-inch.

As mentioned earlier, gravel bikes come with the standard road size wheel – 700C (equivalent to a 29-inch wheel) – and these are great. The only issue with that larger (and thus faster) wheel size is if you wish to fit ‘fatter’ tyres for rougher trails. Luckily, most gravel bike manufacturers build their frames to also fit the smaller 27.5 size, thus opening up the choice of wider, high-volume tyres (over 40mm wide – even up to 50mm), ideal for your gravel bike on a particularly rough route.

One other tyre-related decision is whether you decide to run your tyres with inner tubes or opt to go the slightly more expensive route of tubeless tyres. A tubeless tyre allows more control over air pressure you run inside it, which can aid comfort and traction; a tyre with lower pressure will ‘fold over’ rocks and rough terrain more easily than one that is too firm. Plus, you reduce the chance of a puncture considerably with no tube in your tyre. The tubeless tyre works with the use of a liquid sealant that you put inside your tyre. If you cop a puncture, the sealant will usually do its job and seal that small hole. You will, however, need to bring a tubeless puncture repair kit (and know how to use it) as some holes may be too big and you’ll need to repair the tyre with a tyre plug or a patch, if the sidewall has been torn. We’d also consider it good practice to pack a spare inner tube in case the tyre plug does not work. It’s the ultimate ‘just-in-case’ scenario…

Drivetrain

With the chance of fast descents, long flat fast sections of trails and roads, plus the always-dreaded climbs, the correct gearing is key to a successful bikepacking adventure. Firstly, all road cyclists need to forget the ‘big gears’. And by that we mean bikepacking is little about speed and most about efficiency over long distances – and distances that include knee-killing ascents. Gravel bikes still may feature a 2x crankset, with a corresponding 10- or 11-speed cassette at the rear, for that optimal ratio spread. For simplicity, some gravel bikes (and most of today’s MTBs) will offer a 1×12 setup, where the front chain-ring is small (think a 34 down to 28-tooth ring), while the rear cassette features what is jokingly referred to as ‘the dinner-plate’ (think 50T to 52T). These single-ring drivetrains go very close to matching the limits of a 2x drivetrain setup – especially in terms of those granny-gear ratios.

Drivetrain selection will, however, still come down to personal preference. A road rider will feel most comfortable with a 2x setup, whereas a mountain biker might go with a 1x system. Neither is better than the other, really. After all, if you do run out of gears – and legs – you can just walk up that hill! And before you ask: as much as we do love the efficiency and accuracy of electronic drivetrains, that added complexity makes it a little less appealing for more remote and long-distance bikepacking.

Brakes

It’s never a race when bikepacking, but reliable brakes are still a must. Bike stopping power today is very much the realm of the disc brake, with the main decision whether to opt for mechanical (cable-operated) or hydraulic. Mechanical discs offer the appeal of simplicity. You can store a spare brake cable in one of your bags and the pads used are pretty common. Negatives are a lack of power compared to their hydraulic brethren and there’s barely any modulation.

Hydraulic disc brakes operate exactly the same as motor vehicle brakes: the brake fluid is pushed (via your brake lever) through the hose and the resultant pressure activates small pistons in the calliper, which then squeezes the brake pads against the rotor. As well as better braking power and modulation, they require less user input: well set-up hydraulic disc brakes will require only one finger to use. Negatives are they need bleeding (albeit usually once a year); if you get a cable snagged and broken on a tree/branch, you’re pretty much stuffed; and if the fluid is contaminated or you cop a slow leak (which means you need to bleed them), you’d better be near a bike shop…

We’re a fan of both brake types when applied to different scenarios. For anything from an overnighter to a two-week-long trip, hydraulic brakes would be our choice. For that around Australia (or the world) expedition we’d go mechanical disc brakes.

THE GEAR

So you’ve sorted your bike its drivetrain, brakes and the wheel size. Next up is the gear, and selecting this correctly – whether it is the right combo of bike bags and/or the camping kit you’ll go with – is a key point to an enjoyable bikepacking experience. Thankfully, it’s not that painful; bike bags are, truly, a godsend for the two-wheeled off-road explorer, and here’s why…

How to carry your gear

Bike bags have revolutionised two-wheel travel. Before these arrived on the scene, cycle tourers had no choice but to use panniers. These were very effective if touring on road, but as soon as you veered onto narrow bush tracks, the additional width created by the panniers meant you had to be very careful you didn’t hook your bike (and yourself) on a surrounding tree or similar. (As mentioned earlier, the new cargo-carrying options, such as Aeroe’s Spider Rear Rack, Handlebar Cradle and accessories, has meant racks are a viable – and reliable – option for those who like a ‘system’ type of approach, with dry bags designed specifically for this rack type).

Bikepacking’s exploratory (and fun) ethos, and its focus on going lightweight where possible, saw a resultant need in a new, effective way of lugging gear, where those narrow trails wouldn’t cause any grief, and you could still ride your bike as it was meant to be ridden, i.e., you didn’t have to make allowances for wonky weight distribution and that wide rear end. Enter the bike bag that, in its various designs, can attach to your bike via the main frame, handlebars, top tube and seat-post, plus there are smaller ones for the forks. Revelate, Porcelain Rocket and Aussie-based Bike Bag Dude are all highly regarded bike bag brands.

The basics would include a handlebar bag, a frame bag and a saddle (seat-post) bag. If you went the rack option, we’d recommend a rear rack firstly, and then decide on how you wish to utilise that space in your bike frame, as well as the handlebar area. We’d also probably add a top-tube bag, for items you want at-hand, such as snacks, phone, tools, camera, etc. The only possible addition to this ‘basic’ set-up would be – for those riding a dual-suspension MTB – a small backpack. This compensates somewhat for the smaller frame bag you’d have to use and could include a hydration bladder for easy access to water, plus lightweight clothing or, again, some snacks. You really don’t want to have too much weight on your back, though, as you want to keep all the weight low down on the bike for better handling.

The seat bag ranges in volume from 6L to 16L and is one of the mainstays of a bikepacking system. It is used to pack lightweight, bulky items, such as sleeping bags, down jackets, and spare clothing. The seat bag attaches via a strap system to your bike’s seat-post and seat rails, ensuring it doesn’t wobble while riding and affect your balance. For those who run a dropper seat-post, there are seat packs that compensate for the vertical movement of those as well. 

The frame bag – or half-frame bag – is the main load lugger for heavier gear, such as stoves, water (if you’re running your hydration bladder in there, with the tube outside for easy access), food and clothing plus, often, your spare parts and tools. It attaches to a number of frame points via Velcro straps or buckle systems. These vary in size according to the bike style they are designed for and can range from a half-frame volume of between 3L to 6L, through to a full-frame sizing of between 5L and 10L. 

A handlebar bag attaches (obviously!) to your handlebars via buckles or Velcro strap set-ups. This is used for more lightweight gear, such as your tent, sleeping mat, and lightweight clothing. The size of your handlebar bag will, to an extent, be governed by what type of handlebars you run; MTB bars allow the bag to be wider, gravel/road drop bars are narrower so you have less width to utilise.

These bike bags will be probably the biggest investment in your bikepacking gear (provided you already have a bike), but they will return that investment ten-fold thanks to their longevity and simplicity of use. Nearly all bike bags use oversized zips and clip systems that are super tough, minimising any chance of damage or need of repairs.

Essential gear

So, this is where the fun starts! Trying to squeeze, shove and cajole your gear into your bike bags is probably the most stressful part of what is a relaxing activity. Having said that, opting for compact, lightweight gear and clothing – and there is some incredibly light and compact gear on the market these days – will see that stress a distant memory. Similar to the bike bags, going lightweight is not cheap but, again, the initial investment will see you reap the benefits for many years of bikepacking adventures.

If you are already a serious hiker, you will be well used to packing light and compact so will (hopefully) have gear that can do double-duty, such as lightweight stoves, tent and clothing. 

For cooking, we’d recommend an all-in-one gas canister stove. Brands such as MSR and JetBoil offer these types of stoves. They are most suited to solo adventurers but there are additional accessories (larger pots, pans) for bigger groups if need be. The other option is a methylated spirits stove (metho can be found in most places) that also offers a wider, more stable base and is still light in weight. Trangia is the most well-known brand of this type. Regarding cookware, seek out lightweight titanium pots and pans if you can. Other cooking essentials include a water filter and spare matches/lighter.

For food, that will depend on your tastes. These days, dehydrated meals are pretty damn good and easy to pack in your bike bags. Dried fruit is a great snack option, as are your regulation muesli bars. Oh, and for those caffeine freaks out there, there are some magic mini coffee presses. We know; it’s a luxury but hey, why the hell not?!

In terms of shelter, a lightweight hiking tent is our preferred option and, if possible, we’d look at a two-person version even if travelling solo. The reason being is that minimal increase in weight and packing size pays off with loads of interior space if one-up and, if it does rain, you’ll be able to bring all your gear inside the tent. Some two-person hiking tents can be as light as 1kg. Be sure, however, to check the length of the tent’s poles and if they will fit inside one of your bike bags length-wise. 

Another popular shelter option is a lightweight tarp. These are excellent if you camp where you can set them up, i.e., strung between trees (or carry a couple of tarp-specific poles), and are very light and compact. Negatives are that you have no ‘floor’, condensation can be an issue in more humid climes, and that creepy-crawlies have free reign. Note: you can get insect-mesh inners for some tarp systems but then, you might as well have a tent… Oh, and in storms, you will be hoping you’ve secured your tie-down points very, very well. 

For bedding, a down sleeping bag is the best option. Not only do they provide more warmth per gram than a synthetic bag, but they also pack down smaller – always important when loading your bike bags! For a sleeping mat, you have the choice of an ultra-light (and unbreakable) old-school sleeping mat, or the comfier air-inflated mats. There are a number of brands that offer lightweight and compact inflatable mats, including Therm-a-Rest and Sea To Summit, that can weigh from 300g to 750g. One other night-time camp essential is a head-torch – and don’t forget to bring spare batteries. 

For the rider, your general bike clothing works perfectly. It’s worth adding in a mid-layer (merino or synthetic) and we’d always recommend packing a down jacket. Even in summer, nights may be cool and these pack down super-compact. Plus, they are a great double for a pillow. A few pairs of knicks are obvious essentials, too, along with a lightweight rain jacket and (a bit of indulgence) a pair of sandals/thongs for around camp. Nothing beats getting out of your bike shoes after a day in the saddle…

Get on ya bike!

So now it’s time to head out. You’ve researched your route, most likely via maps originally and then one of the excellent trail apps, such as TrailForks, and you’re all set to go. You will have spent a few weeks finessing your packing system and getting your bike serviced, and now it’s just a matter of turning that first pedal stroke. If you’ve ticked off all our advice – and tweaked or added to it with your own preferences – the only thing you have to worry about is whether that last-day country pub you plan on being picked up from has a good counter lunch and cold beverages on tap to celebrate that first of no doubt many two-wheeled wilderness adventures.

The post Explore the world on two wheels: The ultimate guide to bikepacking appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Sleeping bag choice will be heavily influenced by how your body works; whichever one does the best job of keeping you warm and comfortable will be the bag you need. Your choice will also be influenced by the conditions and terrain in which you will be using the sleeping bag. For the snow-covered alpine regions in winter, you don’t want a three-season sleeping bag. Conversely, for most of us Aussie outdoor fanatics, a three-season bag is actually the most suitable one-bag-to-rule-them-all when it comes to the activities most of us enjoy throughout the year. 

A sleeping bag ain’t a simple piece of gear. There are myriad components hidden under that shiny outer fabric that you need to know about, including the shape (style), the type of fill (down or synthetic), the loft figure (yep, we’re getting techy now!) and, of course, the value-for-money equation when balanced against how often you will be using the bag. And don’t get us started on the humble self-inflating mat. Instead, read on for our hot tips on the perfect sleeping bag and mat purchase.

Shaping up for style

Sleeping bag shape (or style) plays a major role in final choice. For the best warmth retention capabilities, a mummy-cut bag is the best option. This is due, as the name suggests, to its body-hugging shape/cut that leaves minimal empty space inside the bag for a human body to warm up. Conversely, these tightly shaped bags can be restrictive – restless sleepers need not apply – so are most used for things like alpine climbing and cold-condition adventures, where every additional degree of warmth is much appreciated.

The semi-rectangular sleeping bag is the most popular style as it combines the more spacious characteristics of a rectangular bag, with just the right amount of ‘free space’ to allow some movement for the sleeper, without too much dead space meaning it takes a lot to warm up inside it.  

There are child-specific sleeping bags on the market and, for those whose little’uns range from three up to around 12 or so, these are worth checking out. Not only are they generally a bit cheaper, but they will be far more comfortable for a smaller body in terms of the ability to retain warmth, thanks to there being less ‘empty space’ to heat up. A note of caution for those thinking of going straight to an adult-size bag for their small child: Don’t do it. There have been cases where small children have suffocated inside a large bag as they’ve rolled around in it and not been able to get out again. That’s a very rare occurrence, but is that temporary saving in skipping the purchase of a child-specific sleeping bag worth it? No, we don’t think so, either.

Sleeping bag materials

How heavy a bag is – and how compact it packs – may or may not be important, but it is reliant on the materials used – with the biggest material influence the actual fill type that is used in the bag. The majority of sleeping bags use synthetic fibre (nylon or a variation of) for the outer shell, but buyers have two choices for the fill material: down or synthetic.

For decades, down-fill bags have been the preferred option due to down’s better warmth for weight performance – plus, it also means the sleeping bag will pack down more compact (down is more compressible). For vehicle-based camping, this may or may not be a huge issue, depending on whether you’re traveling in a big Land Cruiser, or a smaller, more compact Subaru Forester SUV, but it is still worth thinking about as it doesn’t take long for four (or more) bulky sleeping bags to start taking up cargo space in the back of your vehicle. 

However, it’s worth noting that synthetic fill technology has advanced incredibly in the past decade, to the point now where a synthetic-fill bag is a viable option for even the fussiest sleepers; the latest synthetic fill compresses down quite compact, while offering close to the warming capability of down, albeit still with a weight disadvantage. Again, a 500-gram difference in sleeping bag weights may not be an issue for vehicle-based campers, and you’ll be paying a notable amount less for a synthetic-fill bag. 

Down is still the optimal choice for most ‘serious’ outdoor sleepers. Its warmth to weight ratio, its compressibility, it has a longer ‘life’ compared to synthetic, and it is more resistant to odour retention. It does have its negatives, though: if you get your down-fill sleeping bag wet, it will just be wet and cold – it will not offer any warmth at all. There are sleeping bags with a water-resistant down fill now available on the market, but they are pricey. Plus, it is, as mentioned earlier, very expensive. 

Synthetic-fill The most notable appeal of synthetic-fill sleeping bags is that they are (sometimes significantly) cheaper, can offer the same warming capability (albeit with a weight penalty), and will retain some warmth even when wet. The synthetic-fill technology is ‘nearly there’ in terms of its warmth when compared to down, but you will pay a weight and bulk penalty for a synthetic-fill bag. Plus, synthetic fill does not (as a rule) retain its warming characteristics for as long as down does (this writer has a down-fill bag that is now 20 years old and its still just as cosy as when new). No matter which fill option you go for, though, always remember to air out the bag once you’re back home. It will keep the interior odour and moisture free for longer, and thus prolonging the usable life of your sleeping bag.

Dossing down

Sleeping bag choice is, like most gear we spend time using, always going to come down to personal choice – and, of course, budget. The best bet when looking for a sleeping bag is to not be shy about testing them in-store – and test as many as you can. If you have in your mind a rough idea of what shape and fill you’re after, i.e., a semi-rectangular, down-fill four-season/0-degree bag, that will cut down the time you need to choose the right one. 

In terms of what to look for: an effective hood design; durable zips; sufficient fill; neck collar (for heat retention); sufficient fill (don’t skimp on this); efficient cut (figure out which you prefer: semi-rectangular or mummy).

And don’t be afraid to ask as many questions as you can of the store assistants. Most of these in the camping and outdoor stores are campers themselves, often with many years’ experience, so if you can give them an idea of where you will be using the bag and what you ideally want out of it, you’ll be snug as a bug in your bag, enjoying that starlit outback night before you know it.

The sleeping mat: A base of support

As well as a warm sleeping bag, the other big influence on your outdoor nocturnal comfort is the sleeping mat. Sleeping mats are available in solid-foam versions or the more common (and more luxurious) inflatable air mats.

Inflatable sleeping mats – whether self-inflating or via a pump (or your lungs) – are more expensive than the solid-foam mat but raise comfort levels significantly. There are many variants, with some offering different types of insulation (natural, in the form of down, and synthetic), while others offer reflective material inside the mat that is claimed to reflect and retain your body heat. Then there’s the range of mat heights on offer, ranging from 25mm up to 100mm. 

Heat retention
When shopping for a mat, you will see reference to ‘R-value’. This is the warmth rating and is a measure of insulation based on a mat being fully inflated. The higher the R-value the warmer you will sleep. The thickness of a mat doesn’t always correlate to one being ‘warmer’ than the other, so check the R-value of your mat before purchase and also remember to take into account whether you are a “warm” or “cold” sleeper. It is worth remembering that the majority of your body heat does not, in fact, dissipate through your head, but through the mat to the ground.

There are a number of sleeping mats on the market that feature a down or synthetic fill so, even if it does puncture (which is highly unlikely) the mat will still offer some warming qualities due to its fill. Other technology now being used in sleeping mats includes reflective materials that are claimed to reflect a sleeper’s body heat back at them. This also means that mats have become lighter and more compact as this technology effectively “bumps up” the R-value of a mat without adding bulk to the packed size of the mat. How effective this technology is in real situations is hard to quantify and again could be the result of many other factors, such as the individual’s body temperature.

The best advice when looking at a sleep system is to look at both components – the sleeping bag and mat – as one unit, and especially regarding warmth and comfort, as the two ‘work together’ to provide these. This allows you to potentially get away with a slightly less-warm rated sleeping bag if the mat you choose has a slightly higher R-value.

Bedding down
Sleeping mats are available in a number of configurations that reflect their intended use; car-camping mats will invariably be larger as they are usually taller (from 70mm to 120mm of height) and have a softer material layer on the top surface. Some car-camping mats are powered, either by battery or mains, making inflation easy. 

For hikers, bikepackers, paddlers and others where packed weight and size is a consideration, there are numerous mat options. Sleeping mats can be rectangular or semi-rectangular – or more notably tapered like a mummy sleeping bag shape. Mats designed to be very light in weight are still quite robust and you can choose from those that are self-inflating (with either synthetic or down fill in some, for additional warmth) or those that you need to inflate yourself. A lot of design and engineering time is spent ensuring these mats offer the best combo of weight, warmth, comfort and durability, and as a result they can be expensive. Having dais that, it doesn’t mean you have to pay a fortune for a sleeping mat: buying from a well-regarded brand that has been producing air mats for years is the safest bet and most of these brands have a wide range of models with pricing that is more palatable. For most Aussie conditions, a three-season mat of around 50mmm thickness is more than enough. 

One other option, skewed more toward vehicle-based camping – and a great one if you have the storage space in your vehicle – is a camp cot. Well, really, it’s a fold-up bed that gets the sleeper off the ground and can offer more comfort – but they are fantastic if you are planning on camping at one location for more than a few nights. The other advantage is that, due to these cots being higher off the ground, it’s easier to get up/down from bed. Or is that just our, ahem, slightly advanced age talking there…

A quilt, you say?

More and more adventurers are looking to a lightweight quilt, rather than a sleeping bag, as part of their outdoors sleep system. The quilt’s appeal is multiple: for those who prefer sleeping on their side, they offer more wiggle room, they are often more compact and lighter than a sleeping bag when packed but, when combined with an insulated or high R-value sleeping mat, provide equal warming qualities.

A quilt has only the ‘top’, much like an open blanket, but outdoor quilts can be secured to a sleeping mat (via a strap system attached to the quilt) so they won’t move around too much in colder conditions. The bonus is, if it is warmer, you can treat a quilt just like the one at home and shift it off your legs/torso, etc., to stay cooler. The materials used for the outer – and the fill – are identical to those found in sleeping bags, with down the most popular fill due to its compressibility. 

One negative is that a quilt, unlike a sleeping bag, does not have a hood on it for additional warmth. However, don’t forget, a lot of your body heat is actually through your back (when you are laying on a sleeping bag, you are effectively crushing its down or synthetic fill, thus rendering it useless in terms of warming), so combining a quilt with a warm-rated sleeping mat will ensure optimum warming efficiency from your quilt/mat sleep system. 

A number of sleeping bag brands now offer quilts as well, such as Therm-a-Rest and Sea to Summit. For most Australian conditions, a quilt is an excellent option for a lightweight hiker or bikepacker, thanks to their light weight and compact size. Whether you can drag yourself away from that favourite sleeping bag or not, it’s worth checking out a quilt as a potential sleep system option.

The post The Ultimate Guide To Outdoor Sleep Systems appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The Paddler’s Guide to New South Wales 3rd Edition

Paddling instructor and guidebook guru, Scott Rawstorne has released the third edition of the hugely popular paddling guide to NSW. This guidebook covers 185 paddle trails for kayaks, canoes and SUP, comprising rivers, ocean and lakes, all found in NSW thanks to its great mix of rainforest, mountains, coastal havens and rural landscapes. 

The guidebook is packed with all the essential info you need, including extensive descriptions of each location’s paddle, accurate and detailed maps, and GPS coordinates, along with a difficulty rating for each one. As well, Scott fills you in on the historical background of the locations, as well as recommending places to grab a bite to eat and/or a drink, and accommodation at each destination. 

There is also an extensive trip preparation section of the guidebook, where Scott draws on his many years of paddle touring experience – he’s explored more than 450 waterways in eight countries via paddling – as well as his equally extensive experience as both a paddling guide and skills instructor. His guidebooks this is the sixth one in the Global Paddler series, with these becoming the ‘bible’ for all paddlers.
For stockists, see www.globalpaddler.com.au

Ultimate World Cycling Trips

 With 35 cycling trips from around the world featured in detail, this new guidebook by experienced cycle tourer (and regular Aus Geo ADVENTURE contributor) Andrew Bain, is a must-read for any cycling-based explorer.

With 20 trips showcased, plus 15 additional suggestions, this book includes detailed descriptions and itineraries for some of the world’s most famous bike routes. In addition, there are maps, photos and interviews with a number of cycle tourers who offer their own thoughts and experiences of some of the routes. In short, this book is ideal for planning that next two wheel-borne adventure.

There are trips to suit every fitness level, from riding through the Italian and French Riviera, to Canada’s wildlife-rich Icefields Parkway, and the volcanic island of Jeju off the southern tip of South Korea. You will also find a number of Aussie and NZ trails detailed here, including the Murray to Mountains Rail Trail, the east coast of Tassie, and the Old Ghost Road in New Zealand, among others.

The ride descriptions are broken down into a number of categories, including “Best Mountain Scenery”, “Best for Beautiful Towns” and “Best for Traffic-free Cycling”. There are cycle touring routes for all abilities, too, whether you’re a hard-core long-distance tourer, or you want to spend a weekend riding with your family.
For stockists, see www.hardiegrant.com

100 Things To See In The Kimberley

Western Australia’s Kimberley region, in the state’s north-west, is one of the last frontiers of the world. Exploring Eden Media has just realised this excellent guide to all things the Kimberley, written by local guide Scotty Connell, of Kimberley Spirit Tours.

Connell has, during his guiding career in the Kimberley, hiked through some of this region’s most remote areas looking for waterfalls and led elite Nepalese Gurkhas on Wet Season training missions.

The result of all these years of exploration is this excellent guidebook that covers everything from spectacular waterholes to natural wonders found only in this region, broken down into the Kimberley’s different geographical areas, such as Kununurra and the East Kimberley, the Gibb River Road, Broome and the Dampier Peninsula, and more.
For stockists, see www.exploringedenbooks.com

100 Things To See In Tropical North Queensland

Catherine Lawson and David Bristow are the local experts behind this excellent TNQ guidebook. Catherine and David share decades of travel experience and utilise their decades of being TNQ locals to showcase the remote and out-of-the-way gems that this region is famous for.

Home to one of the world’s oldest rainforests and three world heritage sites, TNQ is also packed with beautiful swimming holes, loads of hiking tracks and campsites, bike trails and 4WD adventures, such as one of Australia’s most famous, the drive to Cape York. And, of course, it is home to the world’s largest living organism – the Great Barrier Reef – and all the amazing things that it contains.

Broken into geographical sections – including Cooktown/Cape York, the Great Barrier Reef, Port Douglas and the Daintree, the Cassowary Coast and the Atherton Tablelands – this guidebook includes not only all the absolute must-sees for this region, but tips on how to make the most of it all, in terms of what time of year, what to take with you, etc.
For stockists, see www.exploringedenbooks.com

The post Outdoor library: Four new books to inspire adventure appeared first on Australian Geographic.

In this article I’m going to cover a gnarly subject: body composition and how it affects us in adventure sports and activities. I’ll explore what it isn’t – think fitness industry models and selfies – what it is and why it is important for general health. And most importantly, how it affects our adventures and activities. Or doesn’t, as the case maybe.

Body composition: What lies beneath

As a coach I really don’t care what you look like with your shirt off. I don’t care what you look like naked. I don’t care what you look like in your swimmers or at the beach. Or how you look in your undies in front of a mirror clutching your iPhone camera and preparing your latest Insta-famous post. Aesthetics is a totally subjective thing. The great thing is that most people in the adventure world aesthetics isn’t there primary goal either. 

Yes, I know that we all have a deep rooted need to be attracted to potential partners, but we have other things to train for as well. Body composition as a term has been hijacked by the body transformation end of the fitness industry. It is now associated with bikini competitions, bodybuilding, Instagram fitness influencers, stripper heels and fake tan.

But the definition of composition is the nature of something’s ingredients or constituents; the way in which a whole or mixture is made up, NOT how it looks. So, body composition is (should be) the optimal composition of shape, muscle and fat of the body for the adventures and activities you want to partake in and goals you want to achieve. In other words, if optimal weight doesn’t include a six-pack set of abs, don’t worry about the six-pack. Spend your energy, mental space and focus elsewhere. We have finite resources, so use them wisely. 

The variance of need

On my books at present, I have trekkers, trail runners, mountaineers, paddlers, rock climbers, mountain bikers, skiers and two polar explorers, and the physiological needs of all are very different from each other.

They need very different levels of strength, endurance and lean mass. Add into the mix that some are going into very hot environments, and some are exposed to a lot of cold, you start to see that body composition requirements for each activity are very different. 

Before we go into specifics of some different sports though, we do need to look at some universal truths: there are some baseline conditions to consider. There does come a point with our weight – in particular with being overly fat – or at the other end of the scale underweight, or with a body fat level that is too low.  

A weighty activity

Now let’s start looking at our activities a bit more. If you are into mountain-based sports, one of the first things to consider about body mass is the extra energy that is expended carrying adipose tissue (in the form of visceral and subcutaneous fat) up and down hills every day, and the unnecessary impact it can have on the body.  

This affects us in several significant areas:
Weight on the joints – impact on the knees going downhill is significant. The more weight we carry, the more it affects the joints and when they do get sore the inflammation hangs around longer. 
If we are over the healthy weight range – we can use between 5 and 50% more oxygen exerting ourselves than someone within a healthy range. 

For example, mountain athletes such as mountaineers benefit from what is essentially a strong but lean and wiry frame, and a good solid muscle structure for carrying the load and for getting up mountains. However, any excessive size needs to be carried, and if you’re at altitude, using more oxygen than your wiry counterpart over the course of a day isn’t efficient and could lead to altitude mountain sickness (AMS). Then add to that the effect on joints of the extra load which is compounded by the extra inflammation caused by carrying extra weight. It means that the joints of someone overly fat will get sorer than the joints of the aforementioned lean person and be slower to recover, especially in oxygen thin environments. 

Now let’s look at mountain and trail runners, a lot of whom, too, have a slightly more muscled frame than their road running marathon counterpart. Please note, I did say slightly. A road-based marathon runner just needs to move forward on the flat, so being as light as possible is the go. Your mountain and trail runner is just as lean but tends to have just a touch more muscle structure, especially in the legs for coping with the hills, descents and technical trails. For those mountain and technical environments that they’re in, a stronger frame also copes with environmental issues such as tumbles and knocks and scrapes a bit better as well, which is more likely to happen in environments like the trails. More forgiving on the body fat side is trekking. Lean is good but a little extra body fat won’t go astray. 

And then at the other end of the spectrum we have the polar explorers. These are the anomaly in endurance based adventure. Pulling a 200 kilogram pulk (a pulk is a sled), you need to have mass. It’s basic physics. The more mass you have, the easier it is to pull heavier loads. But you’ve got to balance that with endurance because they might be having to cover the equivalent of a marathon every day as they’re crossing the snow in the Polar wastes. In endurance-based activities, the more mass you have, the more energy you expend. A polar explorer can lose as much as 30kg in one crossing. If they lose too much muscle it will weaken their ability to pull the pulk and contribute to fatigue slowing them down further.

They need a combination of strength endurance, endurance and general mass. The other thing they have to contend with is the cold. If they are running too lean, they will feel the cold more. Studies show that having more body fat reduces occurrence of hypothermia. So, your polar explorer is going to benefit from having solid muscle mass and a healthy layer of body fat.  

Training for this is a real challenge because the fitter you get the more efficient you get at burning fat and also you inevitably catabolise some muscle, so it’s this constant fight to get the balance right. 

The percentage factor

Please note in this body fat chart: Athletic doesn’t necessarily mean good, both from a health long term perspective or for your chosen activity. 

An example of this is that the body fat range for athletic females is 8-15% but below 12% body fat a woman is likely to go into a state of amenorrhea (loss of period, causing metabolic and hormonal changes which can affect things such as bone density and future ability to conceive). The term Athletic in this context refers to sports where low body fat is an advantage, such as trail running or climbing.

Body fat consists of essential body fat and storage fat. Essential body fat is present in the nerve tissues, bone marrow, and organs (all membranes), and we cannot lose this fat without compromising physiological function. Storage fat, on the other hand, represents an energy reserve that accumulates when excess energy is ingested and decreases when more energy is expended than consumed. Essential body fat is approximately 3% of body mass for men and 12% of body mass for women. Women are believed to have more essential body fat than men because of childbearing and hormonal functions. In general, the total body fat percentage (essential plus storage fat) is between 12% and 15% for young men and between 25% and 28% for young women. [Lohman, 1993 #4151, taken from Sport Nutrition 2nd Edition by Asker Jeukendrup & Michael Gleeson.]

The next step for optimum body composition

My recommendations are:
If you are a recreational runner/adventurer/ thru-hiker and mountaineer just stay within a healthy weight range: Men 11-20% women 16-30% body fat. If you haven’t got a six-pack don’t sweat it, there are a lot more important things to worry about.

If you are competitive at your activity or planning a big and really challenging trip, there’s two numbers you need to look at: 
1. Your body fat percentage – are you where you need to be? 
2. Your muscle quality – we call it your muscle number, which is the quality of your muscle and how dense it is. Is it good strong working muscle? With strong neuro-muscular connection, i.e., trained muscle or is it weak?

Eat appropriately for your training and train appropriately for your goals. And remember… If you do have a couple of kilograms to lose and you know it (like my friend in the Blue Mountains at the start of this piece), spend money on a good gym program or a nutrition plan rather than the latest piece of ultralight kit. It will be a better investment in the long term. Get the lightweight kit when you’re back in a healthy weight range!

For more info on Joe’s Basecamp, see www.joesbasecamp.com.au

The post Adventure Fitness: Body composition and how it affects your outdoor activities appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The sleeping bag: more than you think

Sleeping bag choice will be heavily influenced by how your body works; whichever one does the best job of keeping you warm and comfortable will be the bag you need. Your choice will also be influenced by the conditions and terrain in which you will be using the sleeping bag. For the snow-covered alpine regions in winter, you don’t want a three-season sleeping bag. Conversely, for most of us Aussie outdoor fanatics, a three-season bag, such as the Mountain Designs Travelite 320 (read our review here) is the ideal one-bag-to-rule-them-all when it comes to the activities most of us enjoy throughout the year.

Related: Mountain Designs Redline 2-Person tent: Tested

A sleeping bag ain’t a simple piece of gear, either. There are myriad components hidden under that shiny outer fabric that you need to know about, including the shape, the type of fill (down or synthetic), the loft figure (yep, we’re getting techy now!) and, of course, the value-for-money equation when balanced against how often you will be using the bag. And don’t get us started on the humble self-inflating mat. Instead, read on for our hot tips on the perfect sleeping bag and mat purchase…

Sleeping bag style is important

Sleeping bag style (the shape in which it is cut) plays a major role in final choice. For the best warmth retention capabilities, a mummy-cut bag is the best option. This is due, as the name suggests, to its body-hugging shape/cut that leaves minimal empty space inside the bag for a human’s body to warm up, thus retaining heat more effectively. Conversely, these tightly shaped bags can be restrictive – restless sleepers need not apply – so are most used for things like alpine climbing and cold-condition adventures, where every additional degree of warmth is much appreciated.

 The semi-rectangular sleeping bag is the most popular style as it combines the more spacious characteristics of a rectangular bag, with just the right amount of ‘free space’ to allow some movement for the sleeper, without too much dead space meaning it takes a lot to warm up inside it. There are child-specific sleeping bags on the market, such as the Spinifex Kid’s Keira, and, for those with children aged from around three to 12, are the go-to for a happy night’s camping.

Be materialistic

What material is used to fill a sleeping bag governs its warming characteristics. The majority of sleeping bags use synthetic fibre (nylon or a variation of) for the outer shell, but buyers have two choices for the inside fill material: down or synthetic.

For decades, down-fill bags have been the preferred option due to down’s better warmth for weight performance, and it packs down smaller. Down-fill bags will generally offer a longer ‘life’ compared to synthetic, and it is more resistant to odour retention. It does have its negatives, though: if a down-fill sleeping bag gets wet, it will just be wet and cold – it will not offer any warmth at all. There are sleeping bags with a water-resistant down fill now available on the market, but they are very expensive.

If most of your camping is out of a vehicle, a sleeping bag’s packed size and weight is less important, though, making a synthetic-fill bag, such as the Mountain Designs Overlander 300, a great – and more affordable – option.  Synthetic fill technology has advanced incredibly in the past decade, to the point now where a synthetic-fill bag is a viable option for even the fussiest sleepers; the latest synthetic fill compresses down quite compact, while offering close to the warming capability of down, albeit still with a slight weight disadvantage. The other advantage of synthetic-fill bags is they will retain some warmth even when wet, unlike down (unless you opt for the very expensive water-resistant down bags).

The sleeping mat

 As well as a warm sleeping bag, the other big influence on your outdoor nocturnal comfort is the sleeping mat. Sleeping mats are available in solid-foam versions or the more common (and more luxurious) inflatable air mats.

Inflatable sleeping mats – whether self-inflating or via a pump (or your lungs) – are more expensive than the solid-foam mat but raise comfort levels significantly. There are many variants, with some offering different types of insulation (natural, in the form of down, and synthetic), while others offer reflective material inside the mat that is claimed to reflect and retain your body heat. Then there’s the range of mat heights on offer; you can find mats with heights ranging from 25mm to 75mm for hiking, paddling and bikepacking, with the Mountain Designs Airlite 5.5 a great option. For car-camping based mats, the Dune 4WD series (available in single, double and queen sizes) topping the comfort levels with a 100mm thick mattress and a robust build quality.

Don’t skimp on a cheap mat; these budget models don’t hold their shape and fail quite easily due to fragile construction. This does not mean you have to pay a fortune for a sleeping mat: buying from a well-regarded brand (Mountain Designs, Dune 4WD, Spinifex, Black Wolf) that has been producing air mats for years is the safest bet and most of these brands have a wide range of models with pricing that is more palatable. For most Aussie conditions, a three-season mat of around 50-75mm thickness is more than enough. 

One other option – and a great one if you have the storage space in your vehicle – is a camp stretcher. Well, really, it’s a fold-up bed that gets the sleeper off the ground and can offer more comfort – but they are fantastic if you are planning on camping at one location for more than a few nights – we’ve used the Dune 4WD Quick Lock stretcher for a couple of big outback trips and it’s been brilliant. The other advantage is that, due to these cots being higher off the ground, it’s easier to get up/down from bed. Or is that just our, ahem, slightly advanced age talking there…

The final word

The best advice when looking at a sleep system is to look at both components – the sleeping bag and mat – as one unit, and especially regarding warmth and comfort, as the two ‘work together’ to provide these. This allows you to potentially get away with a slightly less-warm rated sleeping bag if the air mat you choose has a slightly higher warmth rating. (It is worth remembering that the majority of your body heat does not, in fact, dissipate through your head, but through the mat to the ground below.)

Once you’ve sourced your sleep system from your local Anaconda store – and added it all to your camping kit – that’s when the real fun starts; with the assurance that your carefully chosen outdoor bed set-up will offer that comfortable night’s sleep, and you’re revitalised for the next day’s adventure! 

The post Camp sleep systems: Top tips for a perfect night in the outdoors appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Choosing the right stove to suit your needs will depend on a variety of factors, including where you’re travelling, how you’re getting there (bike, on foot, paddling or driving) and how many people will be in your party.

Lightweight stoves

Reliability, light weight, compact size and ease of use is key when it comes to stoves for hiking-, paddling- or biking-based camp cooking. The final choice will come down to what type of meals you wish to cook, the length of time away, and the conditions in which you will be cooking them. A stove’s fuel type governs stove designs and, along with the type of meals you usually cook when outdoors (boil-in-the-bag; meals using fresh ingredients), will influence your stove choice. There are three main types of stoves suited to lightweight adventures: canister (liquid gas) based, liquid fuel based, and natural fuel based. Each of these will have advantages/disadvantages to the other and your choice will also depend on where you intend going.

Most human-powered adventures in Australia take place below the tree-line, which means you will be either cooking simple meals or boiling water, making the gas canister-based stove probably the best option. Canister stoves can include fuel types such as propane, butane and isobutane (or a mix of these) and are generally very quick to bring water to the boil; the Jetboil Flash (one of our favourites; see our review here), is a great example of this stove-type. Plus, this type of camp stove offers good simmer-control, allowing you to produce some impressive culinary results.

For this camp stove type, the canister generally screws into the burner itself and they are set up, with pot on top, in an upright position (you can also get frypans and coffee presses for these stoves). There are also canisters that connect via a hose to the burner, aiding stability and allowing users to invert the canister for better performance in colder conditions. Plus, with the burner on a small stand, you gain a more stable base if you bring along a pan, for example. 

Liquid-fuel stoves are more ‘cold-friendly’ and (depending on the model) can burn different fuel types, too, with Coleman one of many brands that produce a range of these stove types. The liquid-fuel stoves comprise a pump, tank, fuel hose, burner and a valve to control output, with the burner connected to the fuel bottle via the hose, thus the burner provides a more solid base for larger pots and pans. Operation is more complex than the screw-in canister stove, whereby you use the pump to pressurise the fuel inside the fuel bottle, forcing it down the hose to the burner. Fuel used is most commonly Shellite (also known as ‘white gas’), but some units can use kerosene, diesel or petrol, which is super handy in more remote areas where gas canisters (or Shellite) may not be available. 

One thing to note with the liquid-fuel stove is that it will take up more space in your pack/bikebag/drybag. For hikers and paddlers, this may not be a big (excuse the pun) issue, but for bikepackers it may be.

Alcohol-fuel stoves are another option, with methylated spirits the most popular of this fuel type (the Trangia stove is an iconic example). These stoves are very basic in operation (you simply light up the small amount of fuel in the ‘bowl’), and this simplicity makes them very reliable. This stove type is also stable, due to its pot/base all-in-one design. You will need to be more patient, though; the alcohol fuel stoves take longer to boil water/cook food than a canister or liquid-fuel stove. Plus, cold weather can stretch that cooking time out even more.

Boxing clever

One of the most popular camp stoves is the single- and double-burner butane variety, sometimes referred to as a lunch-box style cooker. These are relatively cheap, offer a convenient disposable butane cartridge, Piezo ignition and a compact plastic carry case for easy transportation.

We’d highly recommend a butane stove as a reliable option for family camping – especially for those folks who may only go camping a few times a year. As mentioned earlier they are cheap and very easy to use; we’ve had huge culinary success with Aus Geo Adventure’s Dune 4WD Dual Butane Stove. A butane stove’s other positives are the fact that refill canisters are readily available at camping stores and (often) service stations, and even in supermarkets.

These stoves offer excellent simmer/boil control, allowing the camp chef to create any type of meal with a bit of time and patience. Models to look for should ideally have enough space between burners to allow for medium sized pots/pans; there’s nothing worse than a ‘two-burner’ model that, really, can only fit one decent-sized pan/pot on it. Plus, using oversized pans or pots increases the risk of overheating the butane gas cartridge, which is dangerous as the reflected heat from the base of the pan or pot can over-heat the cartridge (these stoves do have safety-release mechanisms to counter this). This is why we highly recommend purchasing a reputable brand stove, with Dune 4WD, Spinifex and Coleman worth a look. 

LPG stoves

If you have the storage space in your vehicle to carry it (or a roof-rack), a bottle-gas stove is a great camp cooking option, and there’s a huge range of models and sizes available, from single-burner units to four-burner set-ups that would just about rival your home barbecue for cooking performance.

The gas bottles are filled with LPG (Liquified Petroleum Gas), which is a combination of butane and propane, and there are a variety of reason to opt for such a fuel: the bottles are refillable; it’s a cheap fuel; it can be purchased at most service stations around the country; gas bottles range in size from 1kg to 9kg; LPG offers loads of cooking power; it’s a proven and robust set-up.

The gas bottles themselves have a lifespan of 10 years, after which they must be inspected and re-stamped, or replaced altogether. Depending on the stove type, the gas cylinder is either connected directly or via a governor. 

The simplest and most portable gas stoves consist solely of a burner (or two) that attaches directly to the top of the gas bottle, and these are usually suited to bottles with a 3/8-inch connector. Other direct-connect designs offer large cooking plates and posts, which raise the cooking surface to a more convenient height.

A popular set-up is the traditional two-burner gas stove, such as the Spinifex 2 Burner Compact Stove. This design has been around for many years; it packs away into a small, self-contained briefcase-size unit and when unfolded it has legs and the lid and side panels act as wind buffers. Many modern units feature Piezo ignition and stainless-steel construction, and the two-burner arrangement is convenient for cooking meals such as pastas, where you can boil the pasta on one side and cook/heat the sauce on the other.

If you opt for a gas bottle set-up, there are a variety of other outdoor accessories that can be powered by the same fuel source, including camp lighting and three-way portable fridge/ freezers. If you have the space, it’s always advisable to carry a spare gas bottle with you – after all, they only ever run out of gas when you’re using them. 

Fire up with camp cooking

If there’s one thing in your camping life you must do at some point, it is to cook on an open fire. This is not always easy in Australia for the obvious reasons of bushfire risk and the lack of available firewood (please don’t even think to cut down a tree for your fire; green wood doesn’t burn, and it is – obviously – incredibly irresponsible). All that aside, in the proper conditions and season, cooking over an open fire at camp is brilliant. 

In terms of what to cook with, a fold-out cast-iron hot plate is brilliant to use and works very effectively in tandem with swing-away pot/kettle holders often found in national park fire rings. You can also purchase a similar setup for when you are in more remote areas, bush camping. As well as these products, a cast-iron camp oven is an absolute must we reckon for fire-based cooking – the end result is always delicious!

The camp kitchen

Pots, pans, cups bowls and cutlery – there are myriad options for the outdoor chef, in terms of design and materials used, for the best performance and results to suit your activity of choice. Again, bikepackers will need to source the lightest/most compact plates, bowls, cups, etc., and may need to opt for just a bowl that can do double-duty as a ‘plate’ if need be, for example, while paddlers have the luxury of that aforementioned additional load space. 

Stainless steel is the heaviest pot/pan material but a great conductor of heat. Stainless steel is also the most robust, by far, making it ideal for car-based camping. Titanium is the lightest and most expensive, while offering decent heat conduction. The best compromise for weight, performance, ease of cleaning and cost is aluminium, coated with a non-stick material. For bowls, plates, mugs and utensils, such as knives, spatulas, forks, etc., any of the above materials work well but also consider synthetic alternatives – they are tough, durable and lighter than their metal-based equivalents.

For those focused on vehicle-based camp cooking, the cookware you use will be, like almost any item of equipment, governed by storage space to a degree, but more importantly by considerations such as durability, ease of use, packed size, etc. For this writer – and even though it isn’t that light in weight – my go-to cookware is either stainless steel or cast-iron. This is purely due to my preferred camping being fully remote, i.e., away from everyone. This is great in terms of peace and quiet, but it does mean you need gear that doesn’t fail – and that definitely includes cookware (including even to the point of using metal mugs, bowls and plates).

Keeping it fresh for camp cooking

When it comes to fresh food storage for camp cooking, there are two choices: the ubiquitous Esky packed with ice, or – if you have the space – a portable fridge/freezer. The Esky is ideal for those weekend camping trips where there is a kiosk or shop nearby to top up on ice, but for anything longer than that, a portable fridge/freezer is a must. This does, however, mean either buying a portable power-pack, such as the Projecta Power-Hub or, in the case of a 4WD, perhaps fitting a dual-battery system. You can power a fridge from your car’s auxiliary 12V connection but be aware that they draw enough power to flatten your battery in a day or so.

Yes, it sounds like a hassle – and these units can be expensive, depending on the size and features – but, having been on several multi-week outback expeditions, I can tell you they are the only option for any semi-serious car camper. There are a number of brands that offer fridge/freezers in a variety of sizes, from 30L up to around 125L, along with different internal configurations. The Oztrail Dual Zone 80L is one (larger) example: this dual-compartment unit allows you to use one compartment as a fridge, the other as a freezer if need be. Or, you can just run both compartments as a fridge, with food in one and beverages in the other. Happy days!

Camp cooking: The final word

Now you’ve seen the variety of camp cooking equipment there is on the market – and hopefully found which set-up you think suits your type of camping adventures – you get to the fun part: buying the stuff. This is the perfect excuse to wander through your local Anaconda store and ask advice from the experienced staff, while gawking at all the goodies on the shelves, and then heading out and using it in the wilderness. Enjoy!

The post Camp cooking: How to create the perfect outdoor cafe appeared first on Australian Geographic.

01. The tent

There’s no single perfect solution to road-trip accommodation – there are so many variables affecting your choice; destination, numbers camping (family or single/double), available cargo space and personal wants and needs all play a part – but for the best bang for your bucks, it’s hard to beat a family tent.

In terms of size, we’d advise opting for a tent that, at the least, offers an additional couple of ‘persons’ in its capacity rating, and preferably more. By the time you add in sleeping gear (more on that, below), each individual’s luggage, a couple of smaller packs/bags and – most importantly – either an Esky or a portable fridge, you’re soon feeling pretty crowded. And if it rains…

The wet stuff brings up another must-have in terms of size: at least one, preferably two vestibules (covered areas of the tent that provide shelter and airflow even when it is raining). This allows you and the clan to sit out any miserable weather and not be on top of each other while doing so. It also means you can keep your camp chairs (and even a camp table if the tent is large enough) under cover if raining as well. Also check there are plenty of windows (with insect mesh) in the tent to ensure plenty of ventilation. And the last note on ‘big’: make sure the family tent you choose has a high enough ceiling, so adults aren’t walking around stooped over. You’ll soon get sick of that…

Tents are made using either synthetic (nylon or polyester) or natural (cotton canvas) materials, with the former offering a lower weight per square metre, meaning even a 12-person tent, such as the OzTrail Genesis Apex 12P, will pack down relatively compact – for its huge capacity. Plus, the days of synthetic material tents not being as ‘tough’ as canvas are long gone, with most quality models featuring tear-resistant technology (also known as ripstop) and a number of different treatments to ensure durability and UV-resistance. In short, with care, they should last years. 

If your storage space is limited in your vehicle, we’d definitely go for a synthetic tent. You will get a lot more bang for your bucks in terms of size, space and features, than the equivalent capacity canvas tent. As mentioned above as an example, the Oztrail Genesis Apex 12P is very spacious, but when packed in its storage bag is not as big as you’d think.

02. The sleeping bag

A sleeping bag is one of the most important pieces of camping gear. They provide shelter, warmth and comfort, so buying the right one is paramount. 

Sleeping bag choice will be heavily influenced by how your body works; whichever one does the best job of keeping you warm and comfortable will be the bag you need. For most Australian conditions, a bag rated as three-season, such as the Mountain Designs Travelite 300, is the best all-round option. However, because individuals’ bodies are all different – some people are ‘cold’ sleepers; others are happy in sub-zero temps – test as many bags as you can to achieve the best ‘fit’.

Whether to opt for a down-fill bag (usually goose-down, sometimes duck-down) or a synthetic-fill bag is the main decision you will need to make. There are pros and cons to both. 

Down has a great warmth to weight ratio and is more compressible, plus it is more odour-resistant. Get it wet, though, and it offers no warmth at all (there are expensive water-resistant down bags on the market). Final negative: down-fill bags cost more. 

Synthetic-fill sleeping bags are cheaper, can offer the same warming capability (but will be heavier for it) and will retain some warmth even when wet. 

Sleeping bag shape (or style) plays a role in bag selection, too. For the best warmth retention capabilities, a mummy-cut bag is best as its compact shape means minimal ‘spare air’ for your body to warm up. However, they can be restrictive for restless sleepers. Rectangular bags are the exact opposite: there’s loads of room inside, with the result being that your body has to work twice as hard to warm up all that vacant space. Semi-rectangular, or relaxed-mummy bags are the ideal compromise for those who don’t want to be overly constricted or spend the whole night trying to stay warm in a voluminous bag.

03. The bed

Inflatable sleeping mats are the go for any type of camping, These are either self-inflating, or you have to pump them up manually (i.e., your lungs). Either is great – and both are comfortable. Mats for vehicle camping generally have a nice tall mattress (50mm to 100mm) and a softer material layer on the top surface. Some car-camping mats are powered, either by battery or mains power, making inflation a very easy task.

We’d highly recommend purchasing a mid-priced mat at the least; cheap budget models don’t hold their shape and fail quite easily due to fragile construction; there’s nothing worse than sleeping on the ground for a few days.  The other negative of these budget jobbies is that your body weight tends to push the air around the mat so you end up with an over-inflated lower part of your mat, while your body is barely supported because your weight has pushed all the air lower down – it nearly makes you seasick!

 This does not mean you have to pay a fortune for a sleeping mat: buying from a well-regarded brand is the safest bet and most of these brands have a wide range of models at reasonable price ranges. For most Aussie conditions, something like a Dune 4WD Mat is perfect, with its 100mm-thick mattress offering plenty of comfort. 

04. The kitchen

We reckon the single- and double-burner butane stoves are brilliant for family camping. With features such as a convenient disposable butane cartridge, Piezo ignition and a compact plastic carry case for easy transportation, they are easy to use and transport, and are available just about anywhere – as are refill canisters. Having said that, we’d highly recommend purchasing from a camping specialist outlet, such as Anaconda, either in-store or online.

These stoves also offer excellent simmer/boil control, allowing the camp chef to create any type of meal with a bit of time and patience. Models to look for should ideally have enough space between burners to allow for medium sized pots/pans; there’s nothing worse than a ‘two-burner’ model that, really, can only fit one decent-sized pan/pot on it. This is why we highly recommend a reputable brand stove, with models from Dune 4WD, Spinifex and Coleman all worth a look. 

05. Food storage

To keep food stored fresh when camping, there are two choices: the Esky packed with ice, or – if you have the space – a portable fridge/freezer. The Esky is ideal for weekend camping trips and at locations where you can get a quick resupply of ice if need be. For anything longer than that, your best bet is a portable fridge/freezer. This does, however, mean either buying a power-pack to run it or, in the case of a 4WD, perhaps fitting a dual-battery system (the second battery runs all your accessories), otherwise running a fridge/freezer straight from your car’s only battery will flatten it within a day or so. There are a number of brands that offer fridge/freezers in a variety of sizes and configurations, with some offering two separate compartments, allowing the unit to run as both a fridge and a freezer. The Oztrail 80L Dual Zone is an example of this fridge/freezer type. With a huge range of sizes, there will definitely be one to fit your vehicle, whether it is a hatchback or a large 4WD wagon or ute. There are also, now, a number of excellent power-pack options on the market, with brands such as Projecta offering fully featured units that will charge your fridge/freezer and lighting, for days on end. These can be recharged at a powered campsite or you can recharge them off portable solar panels. Solar panels (foldable or solid) are cheaper each year and brilliant when camping.

06. Lights for camping

Gas, fluoro and LED – you’ll find all three of these lighting types at campsites around Australia. Currently, lighting technology is focused on bang for your buck in regard to how much “throw” (how much area coverage the light has) a particular lighting system possesses. 

Historically, gas lights have been the best illuminators, but they are also the least energy-efficient due to the amount of heat they give off (heat loss from a light is wasted energy) when compared to “cooler” lighting technologies, such as fluorescent and LED (Light Emitting Diode).  In terms of hi-tech developments, it is mostly in LED lighting, as manufacturers try and simplify the complex construction process of LED lighting (to reduce consumer costs) while also figuring out how to boost the LEDs’ wide-area lighting capacity, its main disadvantage compared to gas and fluoro lights. LED lighting still lags behind the other two lighting options when it comes to amount of light thrown but, with its many positives – it can be made into strips of any length, or clusters; a low power draw – LED lighting continues to see plenty of hi-tech investment from manufacturers, which is a win-win for campers, with some cool camp lanterns and lights on the market. The negatives are few but include the fact that LEDs require battery power, so you’ll still need spare batteries or charging facilities for longer trips (lucky you have that power-pack, hey?).

The other option, of course, is packing a few head-torches. Primarily LED-based, these diminutive light sources send out some serious illumination. Being head-mounted and thus directional, a head-torch is our favourite camp lighting option – we always have four of them stored permanently in our vehicle. 

07. Gear transport

When you head out camping you’re often going somewhere to do something and that invariably means bringing some ‘toys’, as well as your essential camping gear (tent, sleeping gear, chairs/tables, camp kitchen, etc.).  To pack everything in without exceeding the legal Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) figure of your car (the total weight of your vehicle and everything in/on it a vehicle is legally permitted to carry) you need a plan.

The key to a stress-free and fun family camping trip is to keep it simple. By that I mean not only in what you want to do when you’re away, but also in what you take along with you, and the extras you will need that might be specific to where you will be camping. You also need to be aware of the expected weather conditions (always a toughie to pick). 

It is with the essentials you can save the most space – and load weight in your vehicle. A family-sized tent no longer has to be a heavy, bulky thing that takes two adults to lift on to the roof racks or to unpack/pack, and the same goes for cooking equipment and bedding. 

Another great option for lugging all your camping gear is hard-shell storage case, such as the Dune 4WD storage box range. These are sealed against water and dust ingress, have strong handle, are available in a number of sizes and make great camp seats, too. You can sort them into a system wherein one case is for cooking gear, another for diving gear, for example. They can also be stacked up on top of each other for easier transport (please always – and we mean always – secure any luggage in your vehicle before travelling).

With a huge variety of roof rack and tow hitch-based carrying systems on the market, it is now second-nature to load up the bicycles, kayaks or canoes to add another dimension to your family’s camping trip. There are roof-based carrying systems for all vehicle types, whether small hatchbacks or serious outback-ready 4WDs – and for all activities, such as paddling, cycling, etc. Brands such as Yakima offer a number of systems designed to carry all these types of toys that are easily attached to your roof-racks or your towball/hitch.  We currently drive a compact SUV and utilise a Yakima hitch-mount bike carrier and roof-mounted luggage pod on a regular basis for camping – they work perfectly.

Camping: The final word

Getting started in camping seems like a daunting task when you start seeing all the gear you may need. But, thankfully, it’s not. In fact, we reckon wandering through a huge Anaconda store, checking out all the cool gear, is more than half the fun. But even that fun pales in comparison to actually getting out there and doing it – and you can see exactly how that well-researched purchase works in the environment it’s designed for. More importantly, you can also see exactly how much enjoyment and enrichment you and your family get from experiencing all the Aussie outdoors has to offer. That’s a definite win, we reckon!

The post Camping Essentials: 7 must-haves for the ultimate road trip appeared first on Australian Geographic.

01: Plan and preparation

If your multi-day walking ambitions encompass heading off with friends into the wild for a night or more, you need to ensure you have researched your destination. By “research” we mean confirmed all the tiny details. Choose a destination that is close to home. Familiarity with the expected terrain and distances to the start of the walk (and how far you are from emergency help) will make it less stressful. Source as much information on the planned track/route you wish to follow. If the trip goes through a national park or state forest, be sure to contact the local office and ask them for advice on things like the best season to walk there, water availability, campsites and – important – the best maps. After all, you do need to know where you’re going…

02: Find your way

Of all the outdoor skills you can (or rather, should) learn, map reading is one of the most important. And when we say map reading, we mean being able to find your location with a paper topographical map and compass. It’s an age-old skill that has been (sort of) slightly dismissed in this age of Google Maps and handheld GPS units, but one that once learnt, also makes using these modern navigational tools far easier as well. Speaking of which, a handheld GPS is still an excellent tool (we often use one in conjunction with a paper map) but if it does fail, being able to take a bearing, from a map and compass, could be a lifesaver. During a day walk, basic navigational skills are handy; on a multi-day walk, they are an essential, so sign up for a bush navigation course. You won’t regret it and it will also help boost confidence when you’re looking to tackle your first multi-day walk.

03: The right shelter

For Australia, a three-season tent is the shelter of choice for all but the alpine regions. Going as lightweight as possible is often preferred but for longer-distance walking, a slightly heavier/more robust tent, with a larger floor space, is preferable as it adds some assurance that, when conditions do go crazy, the tent you are, er, sheltering in, does exactly what it’s meant to do and shelter you. Key features to look for include a heavyweight floor, durable aluminium poles, plus large vestibules for storing gear. For solo-ists, we’d still recommend a two-person tent unless weight is of utmost concern. Having that extra space – and, generally, a larger vestibule for gear – is always welcome. For two-up travellers, a two-person still works (space and sizes will vary, though) but, again, we’d recommend sizing up if you can; there’s not much weight difference between a two- and three-person tent, and that additional real estate is worth it, in our view.

04: A good night’s sleep

A three-season sleeping bag is the best all-rounder for Aussie conditions. A few years ago, we’d have said that, if you can stump up for it, go for a bag with down fill; down offers the best warmth-for-weight. Up until very recently (with the advent of water-repellent down fill) if your down-fill bag got damp through moisture, it would lose its warmth-generating capacity. A synthetic-fill bag, on the other hand, will retain warmth when wet. Plus, modern synthetic bags are also nearly as compressible for compact storage in your pack, although they will still be slightly bulkier and heavier than a down-fill bag of equivalent comfort rating. Bag shape is a personal choice; if your main concern (besides staying warm) is comfort, we’d recommend a relaxed mummy shape. It combines the best of the mummy shaped bags (less “empty space” for the body to warm up) with a slightly roomier interior, to lessen that confined feeling you get from a regular mummy bag. 

For a sleeping mat, we’d go for a self-inflating one, and there are a number of variations on the market, from thin, ultra-light ones, through to ultra-comfy down/synthetic-fill ones. Pack a patch kit, just in case, but most sleeping mats these days are very robust.

05: Staying dry on your walk

A comfortable, tough, waterproof and breathable outer shell jacket is a must for any walk, whether it’s a jaunt down to the shops, or two weeks in southwest Tassie. The outer shell jacket is the barrier between your body and the elements and should be chosen accordingly. There are myriad waterproof/breathable fabric technologies out there, all designed to combat the double-barrelled problem of keeping the wearer dry from external – and internal – moisture, caused by the body’s sweat. Breathability and ventilation is key for all conditions – look for pit-zips and chest pockets that also double as ventilation points and also check out reinforced sections of the jacket for durability. The shoulder area of a jacket – plus the elbows – should ideally have a more robust fabric as these are high-wear areas. The elbows should also be articulated, i.e. allow for free movement without pulling up the hem of the jacket and exposing your body to cold winds/rain. Regarding jacket length: at the minimum, you want it to be hip-length. For walking through harsh vegetation this is a must. The other key to outer shell longevity is care: be sure to wash the jacket with the recommended fabric cleaner and also re-treat the DWR coating regularly. Do this, and you’ll get years of reliable service.

06: Boots ’n’ all

A good pair of supportive hiking boots are essential for multi-day walks. There are a number of styles/designs out there, but your best sticking to a reputable brand and making sure you try as many different pairs on as you can before purchasing. Heavy-duty leather boots are, with time and effort, still a great option, but do need plenty of wearing in. But, once that’s done you’ll have excellent support both for your feet and for heavy pack-loads – you’ll be surprised how much a heavy pack, combined with uneven terrain, can put so much strain on your feet. Synthetic boots are still worth checking out, of course. For some, the quicker/no wearing-in process is always welcome, plus the lighter they are on your feet, the less the boots will fatigue you over a few days of walking. Whichever way you go, a well-fitted (and well cared for) pair of hiking boots will provide years of service – and also assist in lugging those heavier loads. 

07: Packin’ it

One of the less pleasant aspects of multi-day treks is the fact you will be carrying all your camping gear with you, on your back… A properly fitted backpack is, of course, an absolute essential then, in this regard (and plenty of others). When looking at backpacks, pay close attention to the harness system – both its adjustability and recommended load weight – and how it fits to your body. Then, you will just need to ensure the pack can fit all your kit in. For a week-long walk, a 65-plus litre pack is the minimum. Some packs in this size range offer an “extendable” section of anywhere between five and 20 litres (usually this can be stowed away when not used). This additional capacity can be handy when lugging more gear (and food) on those longer walks. 

As well as harness and capacity, pay attention to the material used; heavier canvas is the toughest and will last the longest, but synthetic fabrics have closed the gap significantly in recent years when it comes to strength and durability. Regardless of the manufacturer’s claims of waterproofness, make sure you still use a bag liner (preferably a dry bag) to protect all your gear inside your pack – and double-bag your sleeping gear. There’s nothing worse than a cold, wet night’s sleep. 

The multi-day walk: the last word

Getting started on multi-day walking sounds like hard work, but it really isn’t. Buying all the gear you need can be half the fun. We’d highly recommend visiting a specialist outdoor retailer, such as Anaconda, for the simple reason that not only does a retailer such as this stock highly regarded outdoor brands, all that gear is under the one roof – and staff members are like-minded in regards to being fellow adventurers, so they can offer some additional advice.

After snaring all the essential goodies, it’s simply a case of learning as you go; taking that one, well-considered step at a time, as you progress from a single night away to a week out in the wild, and readjusting your essential gear list as you go. Get the basics – navigation, appropriate gear, fitness – nailed and you can apply your ever-expanding skill set to any walk, anywhere. It’s hard not to see the fun in that.

The post Top 7 tips for a successful multi-day walk appeared first on Australian Geographic.

In many ways, too, bikes haven’t changed all that much since those early days. No one’s been able to markedly improve on basic items like Frenchman Paul de Vivis’s chain-derailing gear system, nor on John Dunlop’s pneumatic tyres. And that’s an important lesson to hang onto throughout this process; whatever you want to do, wherever you might want to go, simple and dependable will invariably be the best bet.

Mountain biking developed from a desire to get out amongst nature in a low-impact way and, in essence, the sport has come full circle. Mountain biking is a very egalitarian pursuit; it doesn’t matter at what stage of life you’re at, mountain biking is accessible. Even competing against the pros is surprisingly easy to do.

What kind of bike should I get?

Modern mountain bikes can be divided into two broad categories; front-suspended ‘hardtail’ bikes and dual-suspension bikes. Within each set there are several subsets; dual-suspension bike types, in particular, range from whippet-light, short-travel carbon flyweight cross-country (XC) machines through to burly pedal-powered trail monsters with 200mm of travel, while hardtail MTBs can be XC-focused or built tougher for more rugged and challenging trails, i.e., gnarly downhill, jumps, etc. 

There are different wheel sizes to consider. Then there’s the variety of materials now used in bike building; chromoly steel, aluminium alloy, carbon-fibre, titanium, combinations thereof… it can be a daunting task sorting the wheat from the chaff.

By asking yourself a few simple questions up front you can narrow the field down. Firstly, you need to have a reasonable idea of what you want to use it for, and what you expect out of it. Planning to ride unsupported through the Gobi Desert? You don’t want a downhill bike. Be realistic about your budget, too; good bikes don’t come cheap, and there are lots of extras to factor in, such as helmets, shoes, hydration packs and tools.

The best place to buy your first bike is not necessarily the internet, ether. If you’re serious about getting the best bike for your buck, find a specialist bike retailer that you get along with and trust. Chances are you’ll be coming back to them for advice, spares and repairs, and if you build a good relationship early, it’ll far outweigh any savings you may make buying a bike online.

By all means, do your research online. When it comes to spending serious bucks, though, we can’t recommend highly enough explaining what you want to do to a bike shop employee. Chances are they love bikes more than anything else on earth, and they’ll bend over backwards to make sure you’re heading the right way.

Hardtail mountain bike

Choose if: you want the Swiss Army knife of mountain bikes
Strengths: Bewildering availability, value
Weaknesses: No cush for your tush

A hardtail has suspension forks up front and a traditional two-triangle frame build. It’ll offer flat bars and plenty of room in the cockpit for all body shapes and heights. It’s the first category you’ll come across where the MTB wheel size conundrum rears its head, too.

The hardtail is a simple, rugged device that can be crafted from a variety of materials in a variety of ways to suit a multitude of uses. Look to a lightweight, carbon-fibre-framed 29er (Giant’s XTC range is an example) for racing long distances; or at a chromoly steel rig, such as the Cotic Solaris MAX or Norco Torrent HT, for the ultimate in trans-continent flexibility and burly trail riding.

Disc brakes have 100 percent penetration into the hardtail world; cable-actuated versions are more backwoods-friendly than stronger but more finicky hydraulic set-ups, if you’re really planning to go off-piste. If you’re confident in your mechanical skills, hydraulic discs are incredibly reliable, amazingly strong and relatively easy to service.

The hardtail’s trump is its simplicity. It’s also a great place to start your MTB life (developing bike handling and riding skills) without having to outlay a fortune.

Dual-suspension bike

Choose if: you want to go harder and faster for longer
Strengths: Comfortable and quick
Weaknesses: Expensive, more complex

Dual-suspension bikes come in an incredible variety of travel lengths, frame materials and spec levels. At one end is the short-travel (100mm) cross-country race bike; built light and stiff. At the other end, the 200mm-plus-travel downhill bike. 

Enter what the bike industry is currently calling the ‘trail bike’. Rear-wheel travel numbers are in the 120mm to 160mm range, with a suspension fork set to match. Some examples include the Rocky Mountain Instinct, the Santa Cruz Hightower, Norco’s Sight and Pivot’s Trail 429, which we recently reviewed. 

Frames are predominantly alloy in the low-to-mid price range, while carbon-fibre takes over at the upper middle through to $15k dream machine territory.

A trail bike defines the modern mountain bike. It’s rugged yet light, and capable of conquering incredibly difficult terrain. If you can stretch to the $3500 range, you’ll nab a bike that can be dragged to the end of the earth and back again. 

Suspension components are very reliable, but complexity equates to more risk further afield from civilisation. Most suspension parts need once-yearly servicing; chains, cassettes and chainrings should be eyeballed every six months.

The wheel debate

The first mountain bikes were cobbled together from bits of old beach cruisers, which just so happened to use a 26-inch wheel rim. Consequently, the first production mountain bikes sported the same size, and so the industry grew up using the 26-inch wheel as a standard. 

About a decade ago, though, a movement towards a larger diameter wheel gained momentum in the US. Essentially sporting the same diameter as a road bike’s wheel, the 29-inch wheeled bike (or 29er) is now a widely accepted standard in most Western countries (though not so much in the Asian territories). As well, an ‘in-between’ wheel standard – the 650b or 27.5-inch – has seen the 26-inch wheel confined to the museum of MTB history.

So, what’s the difference, you ask? Without getting bogged down in the semantics of it all, there’s not a great deal in it for the average rider in terms of each wheel size’s ability. Taller people will find 29ers a more natural fit, while smaller people will graduate towards 27.5-inch wheels. Plus, and at a pinch, 27.5-inch wheels are more manoeuvrable in the tight stuff, while the bigger 29-inch hoops roll over obstacles more easily, thanks to their larger diameter – and are faster.

Mountain biking and travel

For vehicle-based travel with your MTB, there are numerous bike carrier options available, ranging from roof-rack based ones, through to those that attach to your vehicle’s tow-hitch or towball.

Related: Tested: Yakima JustClick 3

If you’re planning on heading overseas post-COVID with your MTB, then your local bike shop will generally be happy to give you the large cardboard bike box that came from the factory. Make sure you ask for the packing material that came with the bike that was in the box; it’s a great way to prevent foam getting to landfill and will stop your rig getting damaged in transit. There’s a bit of an art to packing a bike, but there are plenty of tutorials on YouTube. Use clothing in plastic bags to pad out the gaps in the box. 

For those riders travelling more often, a purpose-made soft- or hard-shell bike bag/box starts to make sense. These generally offer more protection (especially when being loaded in a plane’s cargo area) and feature inbuilt padding, straps and clamps to which you can secure your bike, as well as a separate section for either your front wheel or both wheels. Pricing varies between $200 to well above $500. 

Be aware that Customs will want to see your tyres and your shoes when you bring a mountain bike back to Australia, to prevent the spread of soil- and plant-based diseases. The Kiwis are even more militant about it, so make sure you wash your bike thoroughly before packing.

Never walk out

Do you know how to fix a puncture, or a broken chain? If either of these mishaps befalls you in the bush, you could be in for a very long walk. There is a host of small, bike-specific multi-function tools on the market, so make sure you always carry one, along with a pump and a tube. More importantly, know how to use them! A lot of bike shops offer basic repair courses, and nothing beats a bit of practice before you head bush or tackle that multi-day stage race.

How fast things wear out on your bike depends entirely on how you treat them. Riding in wet, gritty conditions will accelerate wear rates on these crucial parts, while cleaning and lubricating the drivetrain regularly will extend service intervals. One money-saving tip: change the chain before the more expensive cassette and chainrings wear out, and you’ll eke more life out of them.

Where to start mountain biking

The wonders of the internet have given mountain bikers a plethora of sources to tap into when looking for a trail to ride. One of the best is a phone app called Trailforks, available for both types of operating system – and also able to run on your computer.

This app allows you to search anywhere in the world for a set of trails, whether in your neighbourhood or on the other side of the planet, and an active population of users means that trail reviews are bang up to date.

If you’re only getting into riding, aim for trails of green or blue status. While the colour coding system is widely used across Australia, New Zealand and North America, be aware that one location’s blue may be someone else’s black (hard) experience.

When it comes to mountain biking, follow the golden rule – ride what you can see. If you’re unsure, pace yourself and test your limits in a controlled way. If you break a leg 15km into the bush, it could be a pretty sketchy way to end a day.

If you’re looking for a world-class MTB destination that is being used as a model for other towns across the world, look no further than Derby, in Tassie’s north and also St Helens, on the Apple Isle’s northeast coast. The Blue Derby trail network has breathed new life into Derby, a dormant mining town, and the trails themselves are simply the best riding on the planet. No question; they’re a bucket list item. Add in the new St Helens trail network (which you can ride via a trail from Derby), and more being developed on the west coast, and it’s not hard to spend a few weeks riding all around Tasmania.

Other spots that are worthy of a holiday stay with bike in tow include Tathra, on the far south coast of NSW and Dungog in the NSW Hunter region, , while Victoria’s High Country trail network is brilliant, plus Lysterfield offers great trail riding within coo-ee of Melbourne.

Three things you should do when you get your new bike

Firstly, wear proper cycling knicks (without underwear!); it might feel odd at first, but the seamless chamois absorbs sweat and prevents nasty rashes in uncomfortable places. They can be worn under a lightweight short. 

Secondly, get comfortable with your cockpit. You can tilt the saddle’s nose up and down, raise and lower the seat post, rotate the handlebars, adjust the position of your brake levers… if something feels uncomfortable or painful, get advice from a biking buddy or a bike shop to put it right.

Thirdly, get some mountain biking tuition. It doesn’t matter how good you think you are, you will still benefit immensely from expert tips and learning new skills. There are a number of skills-based courses around, such as those run by MTB events company Chocolate Foot, that are aimed at improving rider ability and skills. Chocolate Foot’s Fiona Dick elaborates on the benefits of going ‘back to school’.

“Riding off-road, especially on the rough and rocky terrain that is found on most of the east coast of Australia, requires specific skills that differ greatly to riding on-road – and certainly don’t come naturally,” Fiona says. “We [Chocolate Foot] commonly find that riders who have not learnt the fundamentals find it difficult to progress which leads to frustration. Confidence and fitness can only compensate for a lack of fundamental skills to a certain point.

“Having learnt the fundamental skills in a clinic or session that focuses on teaching solid foundational skills, riders will find they progress quicker and build their ability to take on more technical terrain. They will be equipped with enough insight to self-assess what might have gone wrong when they fail to negotiate an obstacle. They will become more efficient, waste less energy,  and improve their endurance and speed. And, most importantly, they’ll have more fun!”

Joining the mountain biking club

You don’t need a licence to ride a mountain bike, but by joining a club and securing a basic licence through Mountain Bike Australia, you can short-cut the mountain biking learning curve quite a lot.

It may also afford you to get insurance cover, though make sure you read the fine print, and consider the level of coverage you have when it comes to covering bike damage and theft, as well as injury and loss.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Mountain Biking appeared first on Australian Geographic.

In this article we are going to explore the importance of mindset around adventure sports and activities and what we can learn about ourselves and why we need to learn it.

The thing about adventure based and wilderness activities is that they are a constant learning process. No two trips into a wilderness environment are ever (and I mean ever) the same, as there are so many variables… and that alone makes it a fantastic opportunity for growth and learning every time we venture forth.

I’m not sure who first said that adventure-based sports are 80% mindset and 20% skill and physical aptitude. I know that the mountaineer and author Steve House quotes conversations with Slovenian climber Ljubo Hansel in 1988-89 stating that climbing was 80% mental and 20% physical. But over the years as I talk to many athletes and outdoors enthusiasts, whether they be endurance paddlers, swimmers, mountaineers or ultra-trail runners, they all agree that once a certain level of both physical conditioning and ability have been achieved it becomes a mental game above all other things.

Why is that? 
We need to look at commonalities of our chosen sports and activities first. Levels of technical skill may differ, as do levels of risk, e.g., a trail runner doesn’t need the level of technical ability and skills around equipment of an extreme alpinist. There is a difference between risk levels of someone trekking through Bhutan at 5000m compared to paddling solo across Bass Strait. But when you strip them all back, they are all endurance-based, and they require physical ability, efficiency and aptitude in the given mode of movement (e.g., a channel swimmer, must be a good and efficient swimmer).

Because our activities are in an outdoor environment and exposed to environmental and climatic conditions, the main commonality is the need to be able to endure… as well as have endurance. You might physically have the endurance to be able to run a marathon but it’s your ability to “endure”, or your mindset that holds it together in a wilderness setting. If you don’t know what I mean, picture this: you’re in the thick of a multi-day overland journey, when you have to do extended distances each day in the rain, having stumbled down slopes, got into camp late, cut, bruised and battered, soaked to the skin, knowing that tomorrow it all starts again.

We get involved in these challenges knowing that at times it’s going to hurt, but to get the good times we must put up with the tough times. It’s different from everyday life where we try to remove as much suffering as possible, risk is avoided at all cost, where we search out the easiest path.

Question time
My first question is: are we seeking growth and change; a primal urge and need to satisfy those urges in today’s sanitised world?

Do you believe – as I do – that it’s human nature to push boundaries to explore our physical capabilities in relation to the natural environment, to find the very edge of what is possible to varying degrees? I agree, it’s not everyone’s cup of tea. Not everyone was born to push the limits of human existence. Some want a safe life, happy in the confines of the box and rules they set themselves. But it’s the people who push boundaries in every field (not just human performance) who change and shape the world. It’s down to the few to push the boundaries to learn more, do more, achieve more and be more. It’s the ones who are pushing boundaries who are changing the world slowly for the ones who are sitting in their boxes as what was once impossible becomes the norm.

So what is mindset in adventure? 
For me, I’m lucky to work alongside many adventurers, athletes and weekend warriors. The vast majority learn something about themselves, their fellows and the wonder of this amazing world every day, both when training for their adventure and participating in their given adventure sport or activity. For these, adventure and challenge is a cathartic experience.

But not everyone in the adventure world has a growth mindset. For others it’s pure machismo; a brutish pride in having done something. In my personal view, these are the ones who by their very words “pit themselves against nature” as opposed to those who look at their surroundings with awe and curiosity and a sense of wonder.  There are plenty of people who are closed minded, selfish and narcissistic in the world of adventure – as there are in life.

Just because we throw ourselves into these environments doesn’t mean we all get a shortcut to enlightenment, but the lessons to learn are there if we are open to them. And these lessons can be:
Discipline
Self-reliance  
Ownership 
Accountability
Authenticity    
Appreciation
Capability   
Confidence  
Communication
Awareness   
Teamwork

As well as being the things that we learn when out in the wilds, these are also the skills that we can develop prior to our adventure to strengthen our mindset and make us a better adventurer, team member and contributor. If we work on these areas, we can become better at our craft and if we practice our craft and learn these lessons, we can become better at the ultimate adventure … life!

Delving deeper
Let’s look at what an adventure mindset is. For this I like to reverse-engineer Deep Survival, written by Laurence Gonzales. This book is about who survives in disastrous wilderness scenarios and why. When I first read the book I was struck by the fact his 12 basic tenets taken from 30 years of journalism and research, showing traits and qualities of survivors, are a great guideline for the most out of any adventure and wilderness activity (as well as staying safe and keeping your head when the pressure is on). 

I’ve adapted them and interpreted them into Nine Foundations of a Healthy Adventure Mindset. 

1. Clarity – Be able to see clearly around you of the situation you are in at any given time, both favourable and unfavourable, and can see it for exactly as it is.
2. Emotional control – Be able to control your emotions. For example, turn fear into focus (and even anger, if necessary) rather than being paralysed by it. Emotional control lets you control your actions in any situation.
3. STOPA – Stop, Think, Observe, Plan and Act. You must be able to think quickly, adapt a plan, analyse and execute firmly and with discipline. Focus on what you can control, rather than what you can’t.
4. Winners are grinners – the outdoor enthusiast and adventurer celebrates often internally and quietly every milestone that is closer to their goal, every ridge completed, checkpoint made, and 1000 strokes of the paddle turned 
5. Enjoy the journey – In all its parts. The grind, the training, the discomfort and when and if it happens, the dangerous parts and the unexpected parts. If you can, laugh in the face of danger (it is not recklessness… laughing is a release of tension) You can get caught in a storm and be miserable if you want or you can enjoy it. It truly is a choice. 
6. Appreciate your surroundings – These aren’t just peaks to be bagged, channels to be crossed, trails to be run. We are here by grace. Of what, I don’t know, and this isn’t a place for a theological discussion, but for me it’s the gods of nature. It’s mother nature, the raw magic of the wilderness and power of the earth. It’s the wind, the moon, the sun, the spirits of the mountains, of forces older than man. There is wonder in every drop of rain that is running down your back and has been doing so for five days straight as you explore remote rainforest paths.
7. Confidence – The will to succeed, belief in your own capabilities and what you are here to do and be a part of. 
8. Get real – This is an adventure situation. It has risks. You have limited them, but you cannot take them completely out, otherwise it is not an adventure. You could get hurt; you could get sick… you could die. All three of which could happen to you at home. Don’t be nihilistic but don’t be unrealistic.  
9. Do what you need to do – and cut away the fluff. The wilderness is a great place for teaching what we do and don’t need. 

Take it onboard
One piece of advice I give to anybody who is looking to get into adventure or an activity is that will challenge them physically and mentally, is to spend time in self-reflection. I run some clients through values exercises to get them clear on what their vision is, who they are, what they want to do (and why), and what their inner drivers are.

It’s a model I call the EMPOWER model. 
E – Explore (self-vision, values, why?)
M – Map (goals and strategies)
POWER – Take action

Preparation is everything. A friend of mine, Dr Kate Baecher, a performance psychologist, mountaineer and syllabus writer for the psychological components of wilderness first aid courses, encourages ‘would be adventurers’ to list how they react emotionally in stressful situations, examine what their hot buttons are (i.e. when fatigued, irritated, etc.) and how to diffuse them in what she calls your Adventure Sanity Plan. Share those with team-mates. Be aware before you are in a situation, so there are no surprises when situations arise. Forewarned is forearmed.

Set yourself 
Be aware of the lessons and benefits that you can learn from adventure scenarios. These are the same lessons you can practice and benefit from learning prior to your adventure. Study enjoy and practice the Nine Foundations of a Healthy Adventure Mindset.

Run the EMPOWER model – find a coach experienced in adventure and performance psychology, have them tease out your values, beliefs and your why, to help align your goals and visions and spot possible pitfalls and weaknesses.

Look at your hot buttons, how you react in certain situations and imagine possible situations to be able to write out solutions and ways to get you back on track. Seek fulfilment rather than happiness in your adventures and you can learn lessons at every turn.

The post How a strong mindset can make your next adventure the best one ever appeared first on Australian Geographic.

But on this particular day, with over 150km of riding on a gravel bike, we’d encountered just a handful of cars (mainly full of smiling campers or farmers giving us a laconic one-finger wave), and we hadn’t stopped chatting. We’d solved the world’s problems, planned a new business, and completed some mutual relationship counselling. And, of course, we’d ridden through some truly spectacular countryside, discovering what actually does lie down those dirt roads with the funny names.

As the sun dissolved into the horizon and the countryside turned to honey, our dust trails lit up like a magic trick and I finally ‘got’ what gravel cycling was about – I knew I had discovered something special. What’s it all about?

Exploration! More so than anything else, gravel riding is all about following those back roads to see where they go and what great pubs might be hidden along the way. There’s no prescribed trail, no course markings or race track to follow. Make it as short or as epic as you like; a satisfying gravel adventure can be done in a day, stretched over a weekend or perhaps it’s a life-changing epic around Australia. (Australia’s cycling history is rich with the ‘overlanders’, hardy bike-borne explorers who criss-crossed the country before the motor car became the expedition vehicle of choice.)

Without a doubt it’s that weekend crowd fuelling the growth of the gravel scene. Riders looking to flee the city for a manageable micro-adventure that involves a couple of challenging days on the bike, not too far from the city or family, with a good country pub mid-way.

The social side of gravel riding is another big drawcard. Unlike road riding, where riding two abreast normally gets you yelled at by a ute driver, hitting the gravel gives you plenty of time to tap away the kays riding alongside your friends, so it’s a nice way to combine riding and relationships.

A good chunk of the joy in gravel riding comes in the preparation, especially if you’re planning a big ride with a crew of friends. The pre-ride banter, mapping and dividing up equipment is all part of it. It’s a lot like hiking in some respects – often you’re heading out overnight, generally with imperfect information about what facilities are available en route – or what the exact conditions will be – so you need to be as self-sufficient as possible without going overboard.

Poring over Google Maps and creating routes in Strava or Ride With GPS is a big component of the fun. You can spend days trying to weave together a loop that doesn’t involve jumping too many farm fences, zooming in on satellite images to work out if what’s marked as a trail is really going to be rideable or not!

Then there’s the equipment side too; something bike geeks, weight weenies and tech-heads will love. Like other areas of cycling, you can geek out on gear ratios and bike setup, but with a whole new level of intricacy. Suddenly you’re trawling the web for reviews of ultralight sleeping bags, comparing the battery life ratings of GPS mapping devices and investigating dynamo hub-powered lights. It’s an enticing wormhole for the tech-inclined.

What makes a gravel bike?

While a gravel bike might cut a similar silhouette to a road bike, the presence of drop bars is just about where the parallels end. Gravel bikes have longer wheelbases for stability, far bigger tyre clearance and a more upright riding position with wider bars as comfort takes precedence over aerodynamics. You’ll also find more water bottle mounts and rooms for fenders and frame bags.

All these attributes make gravel bikes ideal machines for commuting as well, so one bike can happily play the role of transporting you to and from work during the week and then taking you into the wilderness on the weekend.

One of the nice things about gravel riding is that the cost barriers are a little lower than other types of cycling. The bikes tend to be reasonably simple, sturdy machines, normally without any type of suspension. As such, prices for a decent, dedicated gravel bike begin not a long way over $1500. If you’re getting serious, or your pockets are deep, then the sky’s the limit, especially as some brands begin to incorporate lightweight suspension into their frames.

If overnight adventures appeal, you’ll need to set aside a few hundred dollars more for frame bags too, to haul all your gear around.

How big is your rubber?

Increasingly, gravel bikes are coming with a couple of wheel diameter options. The bigger 700c diameter that’s shared with road bikes is still most common, but the 650B (or 27.5 inch) standard that has drifted across from the mountain bike world is gathering momentum.

The 700c wheel size has the advantage in terms of sheer rolling speed, which makes it ideal for smoother terrain. But once you start fitting a high-volume tyre (over 40mm wide) you quickly run into issues of how to fit such a massive wheel into the bike without having problems of tyre clearance or messing up the handling. The smaller diameter 650B wheel size allows manufacturers to then fit bigger tyres – up to 50mm wide – without the overall diameter of the tyre getting unwieldy.

So what’s the best option? That really depends on how you’re going to be using your bike, the majority of the time. If you’re planning on spending a lot of time on the tarmac or smoother gravel roads, then a 700c wheel with a skinnier tyre will definitely do the job. If you’re envisaging slightly wilder terrain, then a 650B setup has advantages as the wider tyre has a much higher volume of air, which in turn allows you to run lower tyre pressures. Depending on tyre choice and rider weight, anywhere between 25-45psi is common. The upshot of these bigger, wider tyres is more comfort over rougher roads, and, most notably, more grip, which comes into its own when climbing, cornering and braking on looser surfaces. Tubeless tyres are a must as well. Going tube-free radically reduces your chance of getting a flat tyre through a pinch flat.

Load up that gravel bike!

How are you going to carry all your gear and water? Your gravel bike should have at least three water bottle mounts on the frame, and many long-haul gravel bikes will come with additional bottle mounts on the fork legs too.

It’s nice to avoid using a backpack if possible. After many hours in the saddle, the weight of a backpack can become a real drag, not to mention hot. Keeping the weight on the bike rather than your body is the better option. Panniers aren’t right either. While a rack and pannier setup is good for touring cycling (where you’re mainly on the road) the rougher conditions of gravel riding call for more centralised weight distribution for better handling.

Frame bags are a popular choice, putting a lot of the weight in the middle of the frame. You can get them in either full-frame or half-frame options. There are plenty of off-the-shelf brands available, or go for a custom bag to maximise storage and a tidier appearance. Full-frame bags, which take up all the room inside the frame, obviously inhibit use of the water bottle mounts, so most full-frame bags will include a specific compartment to house a water bladder.

Additional storage is normally achieved with handlebar bags, seat bags or smaller top-tube mounted bags.

Why can’t I just use a mountain bike?

A mountain bike will do a decent job as a gravel machine, and there are plenty of riders out there doing just that. But a dedicated gravel bike comes into its own when it’s time to load it up with equipment or when the terrain is smoother, eating up the kilometres more efficiently than a mountain bike.

Mountain bikes are also designed for much more challenging terrain than a gravel bike and zooming down a gravel road descent on a mountain bike feels pretty dull. Tackle that same descent on a gravel bike, without any suspension and much less grip, and suddenly that simple gravel road becomes a wild and loose descent. You’ll find yourself laughing hysterically as you bounce and skip wildly through corrugated corners that wouldn’t raise an eyebrow on your mountain bike.

Where to go

If you’re lucky enough to live in a regional centre or country town, chances are you’re spoiled for choice and can probably craft a great loop riding from home. If you call one of the major cities home, then you might have to head a little further afield to get the best gravel riding experience – that’s where the weekend overnight adventures shine most.

For Sydneysiders, the Hunter Valley and Barrington Tops are hotspots, as is the Southern Highlands. Brissy riders will find plenty on offer in the Brisbane Valley and even closer to home in Brisbane’s western hills. Canberra-based riders are lucky enough to have the well-marked Centenary Trail looping the city, plus endless options in the Brindabella Ranges, just south of the city. Melbournites would be mad to miss the Yarra Valley’s incredible gravel riding. South Australia’s famous multi-day 900km Mawson Trail is a treat for Adelaide gravel riders, while over in Perth another incredibly epic ride awaits with the 1000km-long Munda Biddi trail.

Over to you

Time to grab some maps and start your own exploring! Don’t let us tell you where to go or how to do it; that’d be robbing you of half the fun. A good gravel riding adventure is all about crafting your own plan, hoping it all works out, and having a laugh when it doesn’t.

The post Gritty stuff: The ultimate guide to gravel cycling appeared first on Australian Geographic.

What is it?
Road riding is probably the most easily understood discipline of cycling – we see them in their natural habitat all the time! Born not long after the invention of the first bicycle in the early 1800s, road cycling has always been at the more competitive end of the bicycle spectrum. The form-fitting Lycra, the drop-style handlebars and the skinny tyres all pay homage to the speed and focus of a typical road rider – not to mention those classic bikes of the 1920s and ’30s.

What kind of bike do I need?
While pretty much any bike can be ridden on a road, a proper road bike is a lot more than your average weekend cruiser. Modelled on the machines that are ridden at superhuman speeds over insane distances in mass start races from the hills of Adelaide to the vineyards of France, a typical road bike is incredibly light, very efficient and amazingly adept at covering big distances.

A full-size machine can weigh as little as six kilograms, while its tyres are no more than 28mm wide – which is a big jump from the 19mm wide version of only a few years ago. Gearing is tall, meaning that while a typical road bike can cover vast distances over moderately rolling terrain, big inclines can be challenging for the average rider.

If you’re looking at buying a road bike, a decently light machine from a well-known brand with good quality components won’t leave you any change from $2000. Stepping up from there will net a bike that’s both lighter and stronger, and the $3500-4000 region is packed with amazingly good machines. If your tastes run higher than that, then the sky is the limit. We saw a customised Canadian-made road bike on a bike shop floor recently for the eye-watering sum of $17,000…

Where’s the best place to ride?
Within Australia, the popularity of the Tour Down Under in January each year has fostered an incredible road riding scene in around the city of Adelaide in South Australia. The roads are wide and easy to ride, the terrain is stunning and the post-ride food and drinks are nothing short of amazing.
Online services like Ride With GPS also offer a great way to find routes around your local area.

2. Mountain biking

What is it?
Born of pot-smoking Californian motocross bums of the 1970s looking for the next big thrill, the sport has graduated from butchered beach cruisers to electronic suspension, self-dropping seatposts and carbon-fibre wonder bikes that can cost more than a good car.

The sport is enjoying a resurgence of sorts, too, as governments around the country finally wake up to the notion of adventure tourism, while myriad trial building experts ply their trade from Queensland to Tasmania and everywhere in between.

What kind of bike do I need?
Like the rest of the cycling world, the mountain bike (MTB) morphed from a general purpose bike into something very specific to the task of riding over dirt, gravel, tree roots and rocks. Broadly speaking, there are two streams of bike – the cross-country bike and the gravity bike. As its name suggests, the cross-country (XC) bike excels at carrying its rider over long distances, thanks to its lighter weight, more reactive handling and its ability to scale huge climbs and rail down long descents.

Gravity bikes, on the other hand, are less fun to ride up hill, due to their heavier weight, more aggressive tyres and relaxed frame angles. However, overcome these obstacles with either a chairlift or a shuttle service to the top of a mountain, and the gravity bike’s longer suspension travel, bigger brakes and inherent stability thanks to those relaxed frame angles means you can carry huge speeds downhill.

There are plenty of bikes that intersect with both usage graphs, of course, and it’s possible to give a XC machine some gravity traits by changing tyres and suspension parts, or rein in a gravity beast by changing a few parts to suit a particular terrain type.

Mountain bikes are not cheap. It’s possible to buy a $1500 MTB, but you’ll soon wish you spent more on a model with front and rear suspension, better parts and a lower weight. While $4000 sounds a lot, it opens up more options across the spectrum to pick the bike that best suits your riding style.

Where’s the best place to ride?
Mountain bike parks offer the advantage of well groomed trails and obstacles, with the added advantage of knowing someone will stumble across you sooner or later if you crash and are unable to ride out. Some of the best riding in the world is in a park-style area known as Blue Derby, near Launceston in Tasmania, while similar riding areas are starting to pop up in other states.
On the other hand, exploring new trails is part of the fun of the sport. A great app called Trailforks opens up a whole new world of dirt you never knew existed – and even trails in your own back yard.

3. Gravel/adventure/touring

What is it?
It’s actually not that long ago that a bike was just that… a bike. In a world of no automobiles, it was a tool of transport, a daily connection to the world outside and a vital part of transport infrastructure. With the advent of the car, the bike became a leisure item… but the freedom provided by the bike still burns brightly.

Touring bikes came to prominence in the 1970s, and although modelled on sporting road bikes of the day, featured a more heavy-duty construction, stronger brakes and a relaxed geometry to easily cover longer distances.

The cyclocross bike, meanwhile, was devised as a way for European riders to train throughout the winter months by racing lightly modified road bikes over muddy paddocks.

The touring bike has largely faded into history, while the pure cyclocross racer still exists at the pointy end of the retail spectrum… but the best of both bikes lives on in the souls of the gravel and adventure bikes. What’s the best way to think about these bikes? Well… they’re just bikes.

What kind of bike do I need?
For the sake of argument, the modern gravel bike and adventure bike can be regarded as basically the same thing. Based around a road-style frame with drop handlebars, the gravel/adventure bike differs from its road-going cousin by way of wider, stronger wheels, better quality brakes (usually disc) and different, more relaxed handling characteristics.

Again summarising a bit, a road bike is like a thoroughbred race horse; it’s fast and nimble, but it can be nervous and flighty. A gravel/adventure bike, meanwhile, is like a faithful brood mare; it’s compliant, comfortable, and can carry a load, at the expense of a bit of speed.

A typical adventure/gravel bike will generally sport an aluminium frame, which is both affordable and durable, while it’ll offer disc brakes that can stop far more quickly than the old-style road side-pull brakes, especially in inclement weather. It will offer mounting points for accessories like luggage racks to allow it to be used as a pack horse, as well as a wide gear range to better tackle hills.

A good adventure rig starts around $1700, with excellent bikes for sale at around the $3000 mark. We’d recommend steering away from a carbon adventure bike; alloy is more durable and cheaper to repair or replace if damaged. Equally, custom-built cromoly steel or even titanium frames give the rider a more comfortable, compliant ride and, in the case of steel, it can be repaired anywhere a welder can be found – making it ideal for around-the-world touring missions.

Where’s the best place to ride?
The world is literally your oyster. Australia, for example, still has 600,000km of unsealed roads, so if gravel riding is your desire, you’re well catered for.
Even entry-level adventure bikes can be put to good use as overseas tour machines. Riding across Vietnam, for example, is a worthy adventure, with plenty of tourism operators on hand to help with planning and logistics.

4. E-bikes

What is it?
E-biking has slowly burbled up to the surface in recent years, and refers (mostly) to electrically assisted bikes (known as pedalec bikes) that are limited by Australian Design Rules to a certain performance level.

Leaving aside pedalec commuter machines, the big growth in e-bikes has been in the area of mountain bikes, or e-mtbs. Almost every major manufacturer has one or two on fleet, while all of them will have them in 2020.

And if you’re dismissive of the idea, just think that we used to get up off the couch to change TV channels once, too!

What kind of bike do I need?
The e-mtb is still in its infancy, but there are already plenty of bikes and electric assistance systems to look at – and it’s worth noting here that there is arguably no safe, easy or convenient way to convert a normal bike into an e-bike.

An e-mtb uses a small electric motor down near the bike’s cranks to send no more than 250 watts into the pedals arms. That motor is fed by a rechargeable lithium-ion battery, which is often worked to fit into the downtube of the bike’s frame to give it a maximum range of somewhere between 50-100km, depending on the size of the battery, how much climbing is performed and even how cold the day is.
The electric system only works when the cranks are turning; there’s no throttle to pin!

The motor is quite hefty, and it throws out a lot of torque, so frames need to be built more strongly to handle the loads. As well, components are also beefed up to handle more weight, torque and speed, which all adds up. A typical mountain bike weighs around 14-15kg, while an e-mtb is 22-25kg on average.

E-mtbs come in hardtail (rigid rear end, suspended front end) or dual suspension styles, and we’d recommend the latter if you plan to ride off-road. It makes things far more comfortable, and because you’re travelling more quickly, you’re hitting bumps a lot faster!

Think of an e-mtb as a way to get to the top of your favourite hill a lot faster; the electric assistance cuts out at 25km/h, and it’s actually advisable to turn your assistance level down to its lowest level on the way down the hill. Not only does it conserve the battery, but the extra torque could kick in at the wrong time if you’re pedalling through a slower corner, pushing you towards the outside of the turn.

Where’s the best place to ride?
An e-mtb opens up a whole new world of possibilities… but there are instances around the world where trail operators are banning e-mtbs because of a misguided view that they are motor bikes, rather than assisted bicycles. We reckon that an e-mtb causes no more adverse effects on trail networks than a pedal bike, despite the extra weight, and thankfully Australian trails are largely free of such restrictions.

Grab your copy of Aus Geo Adventure mag here.

The post Cycling Central appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Another key difference lies in their attitudes to gear; bikepacking adopts a philosophy of lightweight minimalism, meaning you can ditch the panniers you’ll see on touring set-ups. It’s not just that panniers get in the way if you’re riding singletrack, it’s that you shouldn’t need them in the first place. It’s not only carrying less gear, but carrying lighter gear.

Now, you mightn’t ordinarily be a gram counter when it comes to your outdoors pursuits. I’m certainly not. When it comes to hiking, for instance, I’ve never obsessed about it at all and have usually always found room to carry a few non-essential luxuries, say, like a kilo of chocolate. But bikepacking is one realm where weight really can affect the fun quotient. Lugging around loads of gear is hard work, especially on the steeper hills you’re likely to find off-road. Moreover, heavy loads simply affect where you can and can’t ride. Trails with rocks, drop-offs and other technical features are all ruled out, and even routes with long distances between water – always a possibility in Oz – become more problematic.

When I rode the Gibb River Road in the Kimberley, for instance, I remember reading online about a guy who’d ridden it the year before; he estimated his bike, food and supplies came to 47kg. And that’s before water. But because he was so loaded, he couldn’t necessarily reach the next waterhole in a day, meaning he had to carry as much as 12 litres. On the other hand, our carbon-fibre gravel grinders and gear and food came to roughly 15kg; we could ride faster, which meant in turn less time between pit stops, which meant carrying less water and food, which meant we could ride faster still. We never had problems reaching the next water.

All that said, though, the most important gear is that which you can get your hands on. Don’t ‘not go’ because you don’t have ‘the right gear’. Adapt what you’ve got, if necessary. A good saddlebag and a midsize pack are essential for most off-road trips, but beyond that everything’s negotiable. Voile ski straps, for instance, can be used to make a DIY handlebar roll if you don’t feel like buying one just yet. Just remember, light is right. And also remember – if you’re trying to justify buying new kit – that much of the gear will be applicable to your other outdoor pursuits. My current set-up for shelter, sleeping and eating (including tent pegs, cup, windshield, fuel to boil a litre of water etc.) comes to just over 1.7kg; all of it doubles for lightweight hiking.

Here’s my current set-up:

Bike

Norco Optic 9.2.. Hopefully you’ve been reading my reviews elsewhere in Australian Geographic Adventure, because this bike rocks, and it’s particularly well-suited to bikepacking. Switch the shock and forks to climb mode and you have a bike that’s virtually rigid and ready for long stints on fire roads. Flip it to descend and it’s ready to play. And yes, even loaded up, it is still possible to play, as long as you’re travelling light enough and you’ve got some well-balanced bags, like the Revelate Designs set-up I’ll mention next. Also, one other great feature the Optic has for bikepacking is that its Race Face Turbine Cinch crankset offers the ability to switch chainrings: a single for everyday riding if that’s what you prefer, and a 2x for bikepacking when you need the lower gears. (norco.com/optic)

Bags

Alaska’s Revelate Designs has been in the bikepacking business longer than pretty much anyone else out there, and its experience shows. I’ve got the Pika saddlebag, the Sweetroll handlebar bag and a Fuel tank that sits on the top tube and offers easy access to snacks. I’ve also got a detachable pocket for the handlebar roll that’s big enough to fit in all the food you might need during the day, plus maps, phone, headlamp etc. It’s brilliant kit, bomber and supremely well balanced. Even on moderately technical singletrack, you don’t notice it’s there. The Pika saddlebag (adjustable from 6-12L) is Revelate’s smallest, but it plays with full-suspension bikes; many saddlebags don’t. On the subject of smaller sizes, when it comes to bags, bigger isn’t better, especially when it comes to technical riding. You actually want to get the smallest volume bags you think you can get away with. One last thing: Revelate ships direct from the US to Oz at reasonable prices, meaning you’re not paying any “Australian surcharge”. (revelatedesigns.com)

Pack

Although not bike-specific, Black Diamond’s Nitro Pack(26L) has served me well for many years. It has a hydration bladder sleeve and can be used for activities other than cycling. It carries a load well, too; I’ve often got mine loaded with 6kg of camera, 4L of water plus other odds and ends.

Shelter

Wherever possible, I ditch the tent; tarps are lighter and extremely versatile. You can use sticks, a camera tripod or your bike as support, or you can just sleep under the stars and pull the tarp over you if some weather comes through (my preferred option). I’ve got Sea to Summit’s Escapist Tarp, the large version (400g), which I pair with the company’s Tyvek groundsheet (172g incl. bag); as a combo, it’s hard to find lighter (seatosummit.com.au). For those trips where weather is more likely to be an issue, I break out my old MSR Hubba Hubba tent. BTW, I use MSR Needle Tent Stakes; 10 weigh less than 100g.

Sleep

Sea to Summit’s Spark series bags are insanely light and extremely comfortable, and the Spark 1, which I use for warmer trips, weighs just 400g. Wow! If the temps are dropping towards freezing, I’ll use my Mountain Hardwear Phantom 0 degree bag. It’s a great bag, but I’ve had it for a decade and it’s now no longer made; Sea to Summit’s Spark 3 is equally good.

For a mat, Klymit’s X-lite ¾ is phenomenal, weighing 180g and rolling down to the size of a Red Bull can. Large portions are cut out to save weight, but the important bits (shoulders, hips, etc.) are all there. It’s so minimalist it won’t be for everyone, and Klymit doesn’t recommend it for side sleepers, but I’m one and I find it comfortable. Klymit also makes a tiny inflatable pillow(61g). I’ve always laughed at camp pillows, but this one is tiny and so much more comfortable than the scrunched up clothes I’ve used for years, it’s a luxury I find space for. (Klymit.com.au)

Eating

I’ve become a convert to cat-can stoves. Made from a tin of Fancy Feast with a row of holes punched in them, they’re super cheap (or free if, like me, you’ve got a cat), super lightweight (6g) and they burn metho, which is far easier to source than canisters or white gas (especially if you’ve just flown in somewhere and had to leave canisters at home). They do have downsides – they don’t simmer or deal well with wind – but mine has boiled a litre of cold water in under 10 minutes. If conditions are more trying, though – say where it’s windy – I’ll reach for my Primus canister stove, or my MSR Dragonfly as a last resort if sourcing canisters is too problematic.

As for my pot, I’m still using an old aluminium billyI bought decades ago, along with a GSK 500ml handle-less cup that doubles as a bowl.

Water

Hydration packs and/or water bottles are fine for everyday riding, but I’ve often found I need to push further without water than either of those options allow. I use a 6L MSR Dromedary Bladder; it even has enough capacity to overnight away from water. I also carry Katadyn Micropur water purifying tablets. Weighing virtually nothing, they can be brought along as insurance if nothing else. You’ve just gotta remember to use them.

First Aid Kit

This is an entire article in itself. Just remember, you’re on a bike, so bring one.

Spares

The list varies a little from trip to trip. In general, I’ve pretty much tried to go as lightweight as possible because tools are one area where weight can add up quickly. Lezyne’s V10 multitool with chainbreakerand Leatherman’s Skeletool with pliers are givens, along with Lezyne’s HV Drive mini pump, which is big enough to quickly fill MTB tyres. One other piece of kit I always carry is a Unior Cassette Tool. Standard cassette tools (necessary to replace a drive-side spoke) can weigh half a kilo. The Unior weighs 12g, and it includes a spoke wrench (unior-bike.com). Speaking of spokes, I always carry spares. Others include zip ties, duct tape(wrapped around the pump), a derailleur hanger, derailleur cable, tyre boots and tubes (even when riding tubeless). Lastly, I’ll often also take out my Birzman Zacoo Macht shock pump; at just 84g, it’s a nice piece of insurance if I need to fiddle with shock pressure.

The post Outdoor tech: bikepacking set-up appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Not all canoes are created equal and these days there’s more variety than ever. Here’s a breakdown on performance attributes of different craft:

WEIGHT: Canoe construction varies from heavy and durable materials such as polyethylene and aluminium to space age ultralight materials such as Kevlar, carbon-fibre and Innegra. Essentially, the lighter the canoe, the lighter your wallet. The lighter a canoe, the easier it is to paddle – as well as to handle off the water, so you’ll probably use it more often.

STABILITY: The width (or beam) of a canoe typically affects its stability. Wider means more stable, but slower through the water. Another factor that influences stability is the hull shape; a flat-bottomed boat may feel stable but it may be susceptible to capsizing when confronted by waves or boat wash.

SPEED: The length of boat usually contributes to straight-line speed. In theory, a longer boat should be faster.

CAPACITY: A boat’s capacity is dictated by its overall internal volume. A short, narrow boat will have limited capacity whereas a long, wide boat obviously has more. The height of a canoe’s sides (its freeboard) also contributes to capacity.

SUITABILITY: Some canoes are designed to do certain things well which can make them unsuitable for other pursuits. If you’re heading into moving water (rapids) then a short boat with high sides that is very manoeuvrable will be most suitable. An 18-foot fibreglass canoe with a flat hull can be disastrous in such conditions. If you’re taking the whole family on a weeklong flat-water journey, then a long, wide boat with massive capacity will be the best choice.

2. Paddles

Paddle choice is important. Paddles, like canoes, vary greatly in weight, cost, durability and function. Using a quality paddle in a basic canoe can really improve the experience. The opposite is also true. These days, it’s common to look at canoe paddles in a shop and see a variety of shapes, materials and lengths. Here’s why:

MATERIAL: Traditional aluminium paddles with a plastic or fibreglass blade still work as well as they always did, but they’re heavy and the aluminium can be cold to the touch. Timber feels warmer and has a nicer feel to it thanks to flex. Timber is also lighter than aluminium and cheaper than carbon-fibre but it requires care and maintenance. Carbon-fibre, Kevlar and other composite materials are incredibly stiff and light but are also very expensive.

SHAPE: A standard paddle will usually have a straight shaft, a T-style grip, and a blade that is either flat or slightly scooped which gives one of its sides more pulling power. Some paddles are bent, which means that the blade leaves the shaft at a bit of an angle. These paddles are ideal for forward paddling as the bend in the blade helps ensure you’re pushing water straight back when you’re in the strongest phase of the stroke. It can be used in the stern for steering but is not ideal. Traditional paddles with a long, thin blade are typically made of wood and are ideal for linking strokes under the water where the blade is sliced, or feathered, rather than lifted out for recovery.

3. Skills

Most people are able to hop in a canoe and make it go, but canoes are more complicated to paddle than a typical kayak, so you’ll need to learn the right technique to make them go straight. There are plenty of books and videos on the subject, and there are instructional courses that teach canoe-specific skills. Local canoe/kayak clubs are another great source of knowledge and are a great way to connect with other paddlers. Accredited courses through Australian Canoeing are ideal for those who want to become guides or instructors. Whatever path you choose, essential skills include:

PADDLING TECHNIQUES: Forward stroke, J-stroke, Sweeps Stroke(s), Emergency Stop and Low Brace. It certainly wouldn’t hurt to learn some draw and pry strokes as well.

RESCUE TECHNIQUES: Deep Water Rescue (assisted), Deep Water Rescue (unassisted, or Self-Rescue) and Shoreline Rescue are all very helpful.

4. Waterproofing

You can carry a lot of gear in a canoe but it’s not going to do much good if it gets wet or you lose it. The rule-of-thumb in paddling is that you should always be prepared for a capsize, so make sure all of your gear is packed in such a way that it will remain dry if you tip over or cop some heavy rain.

PLASTIC BAGS: Your local vet can be a good source of waterproofing equipment; ‘dead dog bags’ are large, heavy-duty, plastic bags It sounds a bit morbid, but with two of these you can double-line the inside of nearly any duffel or backpack, twist the tops closed tightly, and keep your gear dry for less than $10. Items such as sleeping bags should also be packed into their stuff-sacks with a plastic bag liner to be absolutely certain that they’ll stay dry. This method of packing also traps pockets of air inside the bag, making them buoyant.

DRYBAGS: With a roll-top enclosure, drybags are ideal for waterproofing. They vary greatly in terms of durability and performance, and they only work well when they are closed properly. Some drybags are available with a backpack harness, so lugging them around is easy.

BARRELS: Another option is an old plastic barrel. A 60L barrel is a good size for canoeing; they have the added benefit of protecting food items from scavenging animals in the campsite.

5. Comfort

Canoes are the packhorses of the water so there’s no need to go ultra-light and skimp on comfort. If the weather’s bad or if the campsite isn’t great then sometimes a few creature comforts can really help to raise your spirits. Here are just a few ideas:

ESKY: An esky is a perfectly good choice for canoeing. It allows you to enjoy cold food and drinks that otherwise wouldn’t be possible. As a bonus, it also makes a good makeshift table or seat.

SITTING: Folding chairs fit nicely into canoes and there are small roll-up or folding tables that allow you to create a very comfortable dining setting out bush. A hammock is a lovely place to relax and doesn’t take up too much space.

COOKING: A camp oven offers a unique method for cooking or baking and is a welcome addition to a canoe journey.

ENTERTAINMENT: Books, balls, frisbees or other toys all fit well and add to the fun. I own a small-sized guitar that I put in a drybag and bring along on some canoe trips. The possibilities, thanks to the capacity of the canoe, are almost endless. Just make sure that whatever you bring, you’re not negatively impacting on the experience of the other users around you, or causing damage to the environment. Just because a chainsaw will fit in your canoe doesn’t mean you should bring it along.

6. Essential info

So you’ve got all the gear and are raring to go, but how do you find out important details about specific paddling destinations? And what are those important details?

QUESTIONS: Where are the launch points? Where are other access points or evacuation points? What are the best routes and how long are they? Is it a round-trip or an out-and-back venue? Where are the campsites located and what are they like? What’s interesting to see? What amenities (if any) are available? Where can I source fresh water? Where is the nearest town? When is the best time of year to go? Who manages the waterway and the land around it? Are there areas to avoid? What hazards can I expect to encounter? Where can I find about water levels/river heights/or tide movements?

Some of these questions won’t be applicable every time, but seeking this kind of information, through online paddling communities and guidebooks, can certainly help to set you up for a successful trip.

The post Six canoe touring essentials appeared first on Australian Geographic.

For some, the emotional choice is the swag, for others, it’s the self-contained (and cargo space) appeal of a camper-trailer. Add in the other popular choice of a tent – ground-based or a rooftop jobbie – and you can see it ain’t an easy decision to make – each option has its advantages and disadvantages.

With some swagger

A long-term 4WD contributor friend of mine once said, “swags are a triumph of marketing over commonsense”. A tad harsh perhaps, but when looking at bush accommodation options, it’s definitely worth looking past the romanticism that surrounds sleeping in a swag. The traditional swag was a simple device: a large piece of canvas material with your mattress/air mat and all sleeping gear inside. Operation is easy: roll out the swag and there’s your bedding; this simplicity of setup and the swag’s overall robustness (no poles to break, no ropes to snap, etc.) saw this bedding option become very popular with early 4WD adventurers – most notably for desert travel and/or with single- or two-up travellers in a wagon or ute.

The modern swag is available in myriad designs, from the traditional through to swags that are, really, more aptly described as a tent. Hooped poles, cross-poles, plenty of tie-down ropes, lots of meshed areas for (welcome) extra ventilation to control condensation, etc. are now commonplace on swags. (This is great, of course; the extra space inside makes it less of a contortionist’s act to get in/out of clothing, etc.)

The material used is still similar – very tough, treated ripstop cotton/canvas tops/sides and (generally) a heavy-duty nylon base to assist with water-resistance. These swags are still quite easy to setup, but now, with said poles, are not that much quicker than erecting a hiking tent – and they are a hell of a lot larger when rolled up. (Not that it’s a race for setting up camp – although that is dependent on how desperately you want to knock back that first cold post-drive beverage.)

It is the swag’s size and significant weight (most modern single pole-type swags top out around 6-9kg; Black Wolf has just released some lightweight versions that weigh only 4kg) that is one of its main negatives: the sheer amount of cargo space a rolled swag (or two, or more) takes up in your vehicle. Even a ute tray quickly loses its generous cargo space to a couple of rolled-up single swags. And if you’re a wagon owner, don’t even think about trying to pack a couple of swags in your cargo area – even if you opt for a self-inflating mattress as your swag bed to reduce its size, it doesn’t really reduce packed size enough to make a significant difference. You can throw a couple of swags up on the roof, but their bulky shape seems perfectly designed to amp up your vehicle’s overall wind resistance and thus fuel usage.

For desert tourers, where clear skies and dry nights are close to guaranteed, there’s still little to compare to spending the night in a swag.

And then there’s rain. Yep, few swag owners will disagree there’s nothing worse than hearing those first drops of rain on the top of your swag; a wet swag – and wet occupant – can really make for a miserable experience. Erecting a fly over your swag is an option in this scenario and it serves the dual purpose of also providing shelter for your clothing/gear that would otherwise have to be packed in your vehicle.

So is there a place for the swag? Yes, most definitely. For desert tourers, where clear skies and dry nights are close to guaranteed, there’s still little to compare to spending the night in a swag – especially the traditional design swag that offers its occupant the full outback night sky experience. For solo travellers – or even two-up travellers who opt for a double swag (surprisingly, these don’t take up all that much more space than one single) – the simplicity of operation, the bombproof construction, and the fact a swag (if properly cared for) will last decades, all make for a still-convincing case for this adventure road trip accommodation option.

Swags:

• Southern Cross Canvas

• ARB

• Mr Swagman

• Burke & Wills

All shapes and sizes: tents

The tent is probably the most popular adventure accommodation option. The wide variety – lightweight, compact hiking tents; large and tough canvas tourers; multi-room family palaces – adds credence to the cliché that the buyer is spoilt for choice.

For owners of compact SUVs and station wagons the lightweight hiking tent is a great option; minimal cargo space is needed with these tents and you can fit all your sleep gear (clothes, bedding, etc.) inside the tent or in one of its vestibules once it is set up. Speaking of vestibules, look for a hiking tent with two doors and two vestibules, whether you’re travelling one-up or two-up. This makes for easy entry/exit for occupants. Check out the tent height as well; being able to at least crouch or sit on your knees inside one of these smaller tents is a surprisingly big thing. There’s nothing worse than having to shuffle/scramble around all bent over inside a tent. Other features to look for include a “bathtub” floor design, where the stitching joining the floor to the tent body is above the ground. This avoids the potential for water ingress from underneath the tent.

… look for a hiking tent with two doors and two vestibules, whether you’re travelling one-up or two-up. This makes for easy entry/exit for occupants.

Hiking tents are made from a variety of lightweight materials, such as nylon and polyester, which means they need extra care. Things to look for include a “bathtub floor” design that has no stitching on the floor of the tent that comes in contact with the ground to avoid water ingress. Also look for a floor with a high “hydrostatic head” (a waterproof rating system, designated “HH”) number in millimetres as it will be more durable. It is durability that is the one downfall of hiking tents – due mainly to the thin, lightweight material used. The sun’s UV rays have a big impact on the life of your hiking tent in particular. This is dependent on actual amount of use, of course; if you only head out for five to 10 weekends a year and then ensure the tent is dry before storage, you’ll get many years of use out of it. The other – minor – negative of hiking tents is the potential of pole breakage. Most high-end hiking tents have poles designed to withstand high winds, etc., so it is worth spending a bit more to get a tent with aluminium poles. Steer clear of tents with plastic poles; plastic will splinter or snap with little effort.

If you opt for a polycotton/canvas “tourer” style tent, be prepared for them to take up a significant amount of space inside – or on top of – your vehicle. These tents are obviously a lot larger than a hiking tent but offer all the associated benefits of interior (stand-up) height and space for two to four (or more) occupants. Some models use a central pole (similar to a pavilion or tent pole; the Southern Cross Canvas tourer tent range includes this type), while others use a combination of this and/or interconnected poles for setup. (OzTent and Black Wolf are examples.)

A touring tent’s construction is its big plus. Most models are made from the same bombproof cotton canvas (for the tent body) and heavy-duty vinyl (for the floor) as a swag so will last many, many years. The extra space, too, cannot be underestimated – especially if you intent spending a considerable amount of time touring. These tents also usually feature plenty of ventilation in the form of windows on each side/face (with no see-um mesh for insects) and, in the main, are not difficult – or time consuming – to set up. The tent-pole designs are actually super quick, as is the OzTent, with its clever hinged/fold-out design. For families, these are a fantastic choice; there’re no worries about kids inflicting too much damage on the tent materials and they can be pitched pretty much anywhere flat, without being too concerned with damaging the floors, etc. As stated earlier, these tents are heavy – in fact, some of the larger four/six-person models are definitely a two-person job to load/unload from your vehicle – and they also eat up cargo space. However, their generous interior space and ample shelter in a storm, make these big boppers a worthy mobile accommodation option. You just have to figure out how to transport them – inside is great, but up top is preferable, which leads to another variation on the tent theme.

Hiking/small tents:

• Mont

• Macpac

• Exped

• Wilderness Equipment

Touring tents:

• Southern Cross Canvas

• OzTent

• Black Wolf

Above it all: rooftop tents

The origins of the rooftop tent are purported to be the African continent. It makes sense, too; think big, hungry carnivores and their potential human meals and you can see why sleeping up on the roof of your 4WD would be a commonsense option. Rooftop tents have been available in Australia now for many years and for two-up tourers – and those with a couple of little ’uns – a rooftop tent can make perfect sense – especially as it frees up valuable interior cargo space. Although there is a caveat…

As with anything roof-mounted, the weight of a rooftop tent will affect your vehicle’s handling, courtesy of the additional load up top shifting the weight distribution higher, but most rooftop tent models are relatively light. Manufacturers tend to use marine-board or ply bases, comfy mattresses, lightweight polycotton/canvas (in the main – there are some synthetic-fabric variants available) and aluminium poles to keep the weight down.
Most rooftop tents fold to the side, enabling manufacturer’s to keep the actual “footprint” (or roofprint?!) of the tent base small, allowing you to – with care – utilise the remaining roof rack space for carrying additional equipment.

The rooftop tent’s simplicity and speed of operation – park your rig, pull the top half of the folded tent over, which opens up the “tent” section with an accordion-style action, then attach, or let down, the ladder to finish – means you can be sitting up pretty, checking out your campsite’s surrounds before you know it. That is, if there is only two of you. Add in a couple of wee tackers and then you will have to add on the readily available lower-tent sections (everything from awnings to additional rooms are offered by rooftop manufacturers). This may cause some concerns to parents as the kids are now down on the ground out of your sight/care but you can soon sort out whether one parent sleeps downstairs and one upstairs with the young ones.

One thing to remember with a rooftop tent is to make sure you’ve finished driving before you set up camp – or more pertinently, before you set up your bush bedroom. If you did decide to go and view the sunset from that dune half a kilometre away – and already had the rooftop tent erected – you’d have to then re-pack the tent before driving over there. The rooftop tent being constantly attached to your roof is only a slight inhibition if you think ahead, however. And, again, the speed of setup means you can leave it all until the last minute before bed-time. The other thing to be aware of with a rooftop tent is, if the canvas gets wet overnight, whether through rain or condensation, it’s wise to have some type of waterproof cover to put over your bedding so that if you do have to pack up early with a still-wet tent, you won’t soak your bedding. Again, a simple thing to do and not necessarily a negative aspect – just something to include in your camp setup routine.
Rooftop tents are expensive but are built tough, have myriad accessories for expanding families (or those who just like lots of extra space) and offer the bonus of keeping your vehicle’s cargo area free for other gear. For long-distance tourers – in particular those travelling two-up – they are the near-perfect choice for accommodation.

Rooftop tents:

• Hannibal Safari Equipment

• ARB

• Ironman 4X4

• Mr Swagman

The outback mobile home

If you’re one of those tourers who wants the best shelter from the elements that money can buy, and who really does want to bring everything plus – literally and figuratively – the kitchen sink, you will need to dig a bit deeper into your pockets and look at an off-road camper-trailer.

Available in numerous configurations, from a converted box trailer with canvas tent on top, through to solid-body models that will set you back nearly as much as a new 4WD, a camper-trailer is the most luxurious bush accommodation you can own.

If you’re serious about comfort out in the bush and plan on spending weeks away from home a camper-trailer is tailor-made for your needs. A mini-caravan in terms of size and features, the camper-trailer offers oodles of extra load space for long-distance/long-term touring, courtesy of additional cargo areas both externally (for securing things like bikes, watercraft, etc.) and internally, with every available empty space converted into a storage facility. The hard-exterior models also come out the winners from all our bush accommodation contenders when it comes to the best protection from the elements as well.

Also included will be a roll-out/slide-out kitchen (with storage space for plates/bowls, etc) that usually includes either a fridge-freezer as standard or, at the minimum, a dedicated space for one. Add in a bed (obviously), power outlets (and included power source; deep-cycle battery and/or solar panels, for example) and lighting inside and out, space for extra gas bottles and any other accessory you can think of (hot showers anyone?), and you can see why camper-trailers are so popular. And it all sits on top of heavy-duty, off-road-specific suspension.

… a touring tent is a great choice for shorter adventures, while a camper-trailer makes the most sense for longer journeys.

The chassis and suspension is a must to check when you’re out shopping for your home on wheels; be aware that there are some quite cheap options on the market these days so it really is best to stick to an Aussie-designed/manufactured model. The local manufacturers have built their camper-trailers to withstand local conditions – think: galvanised chassis, heavy-duty suspension, good dust sealing – which cannot be discounted when comparing trailers.

So it sounds perfect, dunnit? Well, nearly. One of the caveats on camper-trailer ownership is the slight limitation on access to more remote terrain. Some of the top-end camper-trailers will follow your vehicle through or over pretty much anything – with a skilled driver behind the wheel. However, for those thinking of towing one across sandy tracks, it’s worth being aware that, although not difficult, it is a hell of a lot harder to traverse steep dunes with a camper-trailer due to a combination of the additional load weight, and the fact the trailer’s track measurement might be different to your vehicle’s, meaning the trailer tyres are also pushing through virgin terrain to maintain forward momentum. And then there’s the rise in fuel consumption. Even though we all like to think we pack light for a big road trip, the temptation of using all that available space of a camper-trailer is too hard to resist. The result is a significant increase in fuel consumption – and again, this will be most noticeable on sandy terrain, where your vehicle is already hard at work pushing itself through the sand, much less having to drag a trailer as well.

The length of the towbar/hitch setup has a huge bearing on whether you will actually get over that steeply pitched dune or national park water bar/spoon drain. Tight narrow forest tracks can also be difficult; the limited cornering capability of a vehicle-trailer combo can make for testing times on the way to that campsite – not conducive to a relaxing holiday.

While camper-trailer designs (in general) may seem to be geared toward two-up travellers, with their standard queen/king-sized bed and minimal extra sleep spaces, they are actually a great family bush accommodation option. Most makes/models feature awnings or additional covered areas when set up, which are perfect for throwing down extra camp beds. Depending on how deep your pockets are you can also stump up for additional annexes or covered areas so if it does rain outside, the whole family isn’t stuck inside a suddenly very confining space – the benefit of that goes beyond monetary concerns…

The perfect combination?

Each of these bush accommodation choices has its place; as stated earlier, it is entirely down to your (and/or your family’s) choice for what suits you best. For solo and two-up travellers any of these options (with the only issue for the swag option being available cargo space) are definitely worth consideration. For family-based tourers it gets a bit tricky; swags are out, as are hiking/small tents. Even rooftop tents are awkward, with the upstairs/downstairs arrangement and having to work around the lack of vehicle mobility once you are set up at camp. For this writer’s personal situation – a young family of four – a touring tent is a great choice for shorter adventures, while a camper-trailer makes the most sense for longer journeys. Yes, camper-trailers are more expensive than the other options, but in terms of bang for your bucks – a trailer will house, feed and entertain the entire family, keep them warm and dry in inclement conditions, enable you to bring all your outdoor toys, and make for a comfortable semi-permanent base-camp for many, many years.

The post Under cover: Bush accommodation appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Whether you drive a sedan, hatchback, wagon, SUV or fully fledged off-roader, there are plenty of storage options available that will keep your gear where it’s meant to be, as well as improve access to said gear, making life on the road (or off it) more convenient and a lot more fun.

Sedans and hatches

A sedan or hatchback isn’t the ideal conveyance for those who want to head off on a camping trip, but that doesn’t exclude drivers of the humble ‘car’ from getting away for an outdoor adventure. Carefully packed, you can fit a surprising amount of gear into the boot of a car, and larger items can always be thrown up on the roof with a decent set of roof racks and a roof basket or roof pod.

There are a number of roof rack manufacturers that make gear suited to specific vehicle makes and models such as Yakima, Rola and Thule. Each have a variety of racks and storage systems to suit specific requirements, and Yakima also offers a roof bag called the Cargopak that can be fitted to vehicles without racks. It features a non-abrasive base to prevent it scratching your vehicle’s paint, but dusty conditions could seriously test its abilities in this regard.

With a set of racks you can carry all sorts of objects of different sizes, no matter what car you drive, and a roof basket adds versatility in that it allows you to easily carry and secure luggage, spare tyres, jerry cans, shovels and all manner of items that won’t fit (or you don’t want) inside the car with you. A roof basket can also be mated to a variety of weather-resistant cargo bags, allowing clothes, sleeping bags and the like up on the roof without fear of them getting dirty or wet.

The most secure option for carrying luggage on the roof of a car is a roof pod, such as Yakima’s Skybox range, which can be mated to a set of roof racks. Roof pods offer the ultimate protection against dust and water ingress and have the added benefit of being lockable, so you won’t have to worry about your gear being nicked when your car is unattended. They are also aerodynamically designed, so they will have minimal impact on fuel consumption and wind-noise levels.

Bear in mind that there’s a weight limit to what you can throw up on the roof of your car, based on the structural integrity of the roof itself as well as the impact that raising the centre of gravity can have on the car’s handling characteristics. Check your vehicle’s owner’s manual to ascertain the roof load limit, and make sure your racks are rated to carry the equivalent load.

Another luggage system available to owners of smaller vehicles is Thule’s Backspace, which fits to the company’s towbar-mounted bike carrier. It’s essentially a weatherproof cargo box that’s easier to access than a roof pod due to its location at the rear of the car, instead of up on the roof.

One of the great advantages of a sedan is that cargo carried in the boot is separated from vehicle occupants, so this is where you should stow all heavy items, hard objects and items with sharp edges. If you have a hatchback, make sure it has a cargo blind fitted at the very least and, ideally, ensure heavy items are secured to the vehicle’s cargo tie-down points (where fitted) using decent luggage straps.

Wagons and SUVs

If you drive a wagon or SUV, all of the roof carrying options already listed are available to you, but with a longer roof on your vehicle you can opt for a longer/larger roof basket, roof bag or roof pod, and can usually carry more weight. Again, check the owner’s manual for the roof weight limit of your vehicle.

With a larger cargo area than a sedan or a hatch, you obviously have more space inside the vehicle for gear, and most vehicles have 60/40 or 30/30/30 split/fold seat designs allowing more versatility when it comes to carrying cargo. It’s vitally important, however, that all heavy items carried in the cabin be secured to the vehicle’s cargo tie-down points. It should also be noted that while some vehicles have substantially strong tie-down points, others don’t, so you might have to look at an aftermarket alternative. Depending on your vehicle model and the tie-down points available for it, you may have to opt for a professional installation; your mechanic or local 4WD accessory outlet will be able to advise.

The best option for separating potentially dangerous cargo from vehicle occupants is to fit a cargo barrier. One of the best-known brands is Australian company Milford, which makes cargo barriers to suit a wide range of vehicles. Several models feature dual-position fitment, so they can be moved forwards in the vehicle when you need to fold down the rear seats for more cargo space, and they can be easily removed without tools. Other manufacturers of cargo barriers include Hayman Reese, Caddy Cargo Barriers, Autosafe Industries and more.

As well as keeping heavy items away from people, a cargo barrier allows you to utilise your cargo area right up to the roof; just remember to pack heavy items down low and light stuff up top. Cargo barriers are also good places to mount things like fire extinguishers and bags for small odds and ends.

The cargo area in most wagons and SUVs will be large enough to accommodate a decent-size icebox or a portable 12V fridge/freezer up to around 40L capacity. In this size range, most portable fridge-freezers can be simply plugged into your vehicle’s 12V power outlet, but a hard-wired installation will be more efficient and will eliminate the possibility of the power lead being accidentally knocked out. When looking at ice boxes and fridges, make sure there’s enough room in the back of your vehicle that you can open the lid to access chilled items, and when packing gear around fridges, always leave enough space for it to ‘breathe’ so that it can operate efficiently.

If you’re going to run a fridge, you may want to consider installing a dual battery system, with an auxiliary battery fitted either under the bonnet or in a portable battery box. This will allow you to run powered accessories such as a fridge off the auxiliary battery, ensuring there’s always enough charge in the vehicle’s starting battery to fire up the engine.

4WD Wagons

There’s a huge variety of accessories available to drivers of 4WD wagons that allow camping gear to be organised for safety and convenience. In addition to the roof-carrying equipment and cargo barriers already listed, one of the most popular set-ups is a cargo drawer system.

There are a wide variety of cargo drawer systems on the market with prices ranging from as little as $500 to more than $2500 and, as you’d expect, you get what you pay for. At a minimum, you should look for features such as a strong frame, double roller bearings for the drawers, sturdy catches, locks and handles, and a fully lined and carpeted finish. Some systems incorporate cargo tie-down points on their top surface and some even have a built-in fridge slide.

Cargo drawer systems are designed to suit specific vehicle models so they make the best use of the available space, and because the drawers can be fully extended, they make it easy to access items that would otherwise be hidden in the far reaches of the vehicle’s cargo area.

Some cargo drawer systems are modular units, so you can opt to fit different-size drawers side-by-side or stack them on top of each other. If you’re going to fit a fridge slide on top of a drawer, consider forking out a bit extra for a drop-down fridge slide, which will make access to chilled food and drinks much easier. A cage around the fridge is also a great option, as it ensures the fridge has plenty of ‘breathing’ space and allows you to pack gear in tight without fear of it falling behind the fridge when you pull on the fridge slide.

Up the front of the vehicle, you might want to consider replacing your vehicle’s centre console with a 12V cooler box, or fitting a roof console for gear such as your UHF radio, extra storage and additional map lights.

Keep it simple

There’s a lot of gear listed in this feature that will undoubtedly simplify the vehicle packing process and make access to your ‘stuff’ easier on your next camping adventure, but remember, you don’t need all of this equipment. Sensibly packed, you can safely carry everything you’ll need in just about any standard vehicle… but please, please, please, make sure heavy items are properly secured away from vehicle occupants and in a manner that they won’t affect other road users if something goes wrong.

4WD Utes

It’s little wonder that 4WD utes have become so popular in recent times. Not only can utes carry a lot more gear than wagons (bigger cargo area and greater payload), they are also equipped with all of the comfort, convenience and safety features that you’ll find in any other car.

Most drivers of 4WD utes who want to transform their vehicles into touring rigs will fit a canopy, and there are several models available. Some are quite basic and offer little more than a cover to protect your gear from the elements, while others are fully lined and kitted out with interior lighting, sliding or pop-up windows, window guards, roof racks and air vents, the latter providing positive air pressure in the cargo area to minimise the chance of dust ingress when driving on gravel roads. The ARB Ascent canopy goes a step further, providing one-touch window operation and compatibility with the vehicle’s remote central locking system.

As per 4WD wagons, utes can also be equipped with are cargo-drawer systems, fridge slides/cages, dual battery systems, roof consoles and more.

Water and fuel

On any camping trip you’re going to have to carry water and fuel, but if that’s an extended trip you might need to carry quite a lot of these essential fluids.

When it comes to water there are several options; bottled water, 5L, 10L and 20L containers, water bladders and underbody water tanks. If bottled or stored in larger containers or in a bladder, water will take up valuable cargo space that could otherwise be used for something else. One of the best water storage solutions, therefore, is an underbody water tank, usually made out of stainless steel and situated down near the chassis rails of a 4WD where the weight of the water won’t have a negative effect on the vehicle’s centre of gravity.

As for extra fuel, it’s best carried on the outside of the vehicle. There are several options for storing traditional 20L jerry cans, either in a special bracket at the rear of the vehicle or up on the roof rack. RotopaX manufactures a number of innovative modular fuel containers that can be mounted in various positions on the vehicle.

One of the best fuel storage solutions is to fit a long-range fuel tank, or an auxiliary tank to complement your vehicle’s standard fuel tank. These are commonly made from steel (The Long Ranger, Brown Davis, Long Range Automotive and Outback Accessories) or cross-linked polymer (ARB Frontier tank) and are designed to suit specific vehicle models.

The post Outdoor tech: car-camping storage appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Despite this almost sci-fi movie environment, I am only 100m away from my local coffee shop. But today I am exploring a little deeper, scratching under the surface, for this is the underwater world of scuba diving, and this is my first ever dive!

For decades I had glimpsed this submerged Garden of Eden every time I surfed. Every duck dive under the water, every wave ridden over coral reefs showed me a teaser of what I was missing. Just below the glimmering surface and baking sun there existed a spectacular world, seemingly just out of my reach, but all I had to do was walk into a dive shop to unlock the door to this amazing place. It took me 30 years to finally walk through that door… and I warn you, once you walk through it, you are unlikely to ever turn back, for this new world is very, very addictive.

Like many Australians, I grew up around water. Swimming lessons at school, building rafts on the dam, spending after school and weekends at the beach. I surfed, I swam, I joined the local surf life saving club and, in between, my mates and I would jump off the coastal cliffs or snorkel the rocky reefs of Victoria’s Great Ocean Road.

With so much of my life revolving around water, it seems odd now that it never occurred to me that, right on my doorstep, lay an intriguing and alien landscape, filled with strange and wonderful creatures, many of which are wilder than my imagination could ever dream up.

This world covers 71 per cent of our planet’s surface, and is where life began eons ago, and where exotic sea creatures have developed in the oceans over millennia. The appeal of underwater exploration is certainly not a new phenomenon. As far back as the 17th and 18th centuries, free diving (a form of skin diving, without supplemental oxygen) was an everyday part of life for the Korean families of Jeju. Before the existence of pressurised air tanks, or even air-fed diving bells, the fishing sea women, called haenyeo, trained from their early teens to dive to depths of 30m for up to three minutes on a single breath to collect shellfish, algae and urchins. Incredibly, some ageing haenyeo still carry on their tradition and practice the art of free diving today.

Whilst the haenyeo tradition may eventually disappear, a radical new meditative version of free diving develops presently in the form of Variable Weighted Apnea (VWT – see Dive Talk), a sport whereby the world record now sits at 146m on a single breath. This new era of pushing the body to limits is touching on intriguing biological discoveries, like when we put our face in water, our heart rate lowers by up to 25 per cent. Perhaps we are not as far removed from our aquatic ancestors as we think.

However whilst this world of extreme free diving intrigues some, it is the world of scuba (self-contained underwater breathing apparatus) that opens up the underwater world to the masses.

In 1943 Emile Gagnan and Jacques Cousteau redesigned a car regulator into the ‘modern demand regulator’, and patented their designs as the Aqua-Lung. Their discovery revolutionised the world of deep-sea exploration and pushed diving from a fringe science into mainstream recreation.

Since their early patents, new technologies in BCDs (buoyancy control devices), cylinders, mask and fin materials and designs have all advanced in leaps and bounds, resulting in today’s high-tech apparatus, however much of it is still based on the same design principles of the Gagnan and Cousteau discoveries.

As unnatural as breathing underwater seems, the feeling of soaring weightlessly under the waves is one of the most incredible sensations a person is likely to experience. And the great thing is scuba diving is available to anybody who can swim confidently, is in good physical health and is more than 10 years of age.

…the feeling of soaring weightlessly under the waves is one of the most incredible sensations a person is likely to experience.

It was fellow AGA contributor Caroline Pemberton who prompted me to finally pursue this underwater activity. While catching up for a quick coffee, she casually mentioned, “I am going to go cave diving.”

I remember at first feeling awestruck, and then intrigued… this was an exciting world I knew nothing of but I had always been intrigued by the amazing photos I’d seen of divers in magnificent chambers with seemingly endless visibility.

I had a million questions for Caroline and we talked about diving for quite some time before she asked, “So I’ll see you at the dive shop on Monday?”

As an accomplished diver herself, Caroline steered me directly to dive guru Matt Hopkins from Dive Spear and Sport, who reckons he probably has around 20,000 dives under his belt. I decided that if I was to stick my head underwater, I would be in pretty damned safe hands with this bloke.

Two days later and I was at the bottom of the local swimming pool, having a mask torn from my face and my air supply switched off. What the hell had I signed up for?

Globally there are a number off bodies and organisations offering scuba certification, but the most widely recognised is PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors), and the PADI Open Water Certificate (OWC) is the recommended starting point for beginner divers.

The basic details of what each course entails is on the PADI website and once signed into the system, online teaching material is made available to you through an e-learning site. Realistically, this should probably be taught over at least a few days to allow all the information to be truly absorbed. Your local dive centre will most likely be extremely helpful with any questions that fall outside of the online teaching, and it is at your dive centre where you take a written test. You have to achieve 75 per cent or higher to complete this stage.

The next step in the process is to dip your toes in the water to undertake a confined water dive (in a pool or shallow beach) and then four open water dives (deeper open water). These dives are designed to put into practice all the information from your e-learning… including having the your mask pulled from your face… but it is not as bad as it sounds.

The initial confined water dive is a bit of a bombardment of information, covering such skills as:

• A 200m swim
• Assemble, put on and adjust scuba gear
• Pre-dive safety check
• Inflate and deflate BCD
• Swap from regulator to snorkel, snorkel to regulator
• Descend underwater
• Use your Pressure Gauge and signal your remaining air
• Recognise and respond to hand signals underwater
• Clear a fully flooded mask
• Remove mask and swim for at least 15m, replace and clear mask
• Demonstrate neutral buoyancy
• Take off scuba gear and put it back on at surface and at depth
• Swim and navigate with a compass at surface and at depth
• Emergency weight drop at surface and at depth
• Cramp release on buddy and on yourself at surface and at depth
• BCD oral inflation at surface and at depth
• Out of air exercises: use alternate air source, provide alternate air source, practice buddy breathing
• Practice a controlled emergency swimming ascent (CESA)
• Ascend while equalising

…and more

The first open water dive is more an orientation dive, and you will begin to learn to soar through the water like a gull does through air. If you are anything like me you will likely suck down air at twice the rate you should, and your soaring may run into quite a lot of turbulence, but the nerves and excitement are part of the experience and learning to control them is an achievement in itself.

The next two dives allow new divers to practice recently learned knowledge, including hand signals, navigation, emergency procedures and much more. All this is taught within the relative safety zone of a depth allowing an emergency ascent if needed.

By the fourth dive, ideally your newfound skills are becoming second nature and as confidence grows your body relaxes and in turn you get more ‘bottom time’. I guarantee you will now be grinning behind your regulator as you check out sea horses, eels and brilliantly coloured fish, and you’ll wonder why on earth you’ve never done this scuba diving thing before.

I am still awestruck every time I descend, and I clearly recall my first dive, in which Matt showed me how personal buoyancy can be controlled by inhaling and exhaling. Who would have ever thought that as you glide across submerged reef beds you could simply take a deep breath to rise over a small obstacle, and exhale to drop over the far side? For me this weird and wonderful world is only now just opening up, and I am still but a pup in the world of scuba, but I am enthralled, enthused and the addiction is creeping in. Some of my new buddies are keen to explore our local sites and the Sunday ‘Dive & BBQ’ run by my local dive centre is always a good laugh with good friends. I am already listing dive destinations for future exploration and have even managed a few dives in the Cook Islands on a recent sojourn into the Pacific.

Somewhere deep in my subconscious I think maybe there is an urge to excel, to attain a level of ability and certification to offer confidence to cave dive, and to one day create for myself some of those incredible images that drew me in to scuba in the first place.

Dive Talk

Variable Weighted Apnea (VWT) uses a weighted sled for descent. Athletes return to the surface by pulling themselves up a line or swimming. World record holder as of 1 November, 2015 is Stavros Kastrinakis (GRE) at 146m.

Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) is the largest and most widely recognised certification and training organisation for divers of all levels. Alternate qualifications exist with BSAC, SSI and a number of lesser known training organisations.

Australian Geographic Adventure undertook the PADI OW certification with the incredibly friendly Matt and Kim at Dive Spear and Sport in Mona Vale, Sydney. The OW packages start at $595 per person, and consist of three days on a course of no more than eight people, PADI e-learning, certification, four boat dives, all gear hire, tanks and instructor.

The post How To: scuba diving appeared first on Australian Geographic.

(price varies) www.seatosummit.com.au

The Aussie-based adventure equipment company has scored numerous global awards with this compact, collapsible cooking system. It includes everything from mugs and bowls through to large pots (up to 4L). The X-Series is constructed from food-grade silicon and lightweight, tough 6063 hard-anodised aluminium (for the bases of pots, pans, etc.). Each utensil in this system is designed to nest in with others when collapsed down for storage. I use a combo of two X-Set 2s (two plates/bowls and two cups), all collapsed down and stored inside an X-Pot 4L large pot. When compacted down, it is only 50mm tall. The ribbed silicon handles make handling of the pot easy and the whole thing is built tough. The best thing, though, is that it can double as your cookware for any overnight hikes or paddles from your main campsite.

2. Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Voyager

$209.95 www.spelean.com.au

Lightweight, compact when stored and bloody comfortable; the NeoAir Voyager is the luxo version of the NeoAir range and offers plenty of warmth, courtesy of Therm-a-Rest’s WaveCore technology. This tech is based on a single layer of horizontal baffles inside the mat that replace the need for down or synthetic fibres to add insulation. And yeah, it sounds like a mad scientist’s project, but it does work: I have used one of these mats for a few years now in all weather conditions and it has offered a comfortable and warm sleep every time. Aiding that sleep is the Voyager’s 64mm inflated height – there’s plenty of cush in this compact mat. Another standout feature of the Voyager is its tough construction. The 75D polyester fabric is very robust and – most importantly – airtight; there have been a few nights’ camping when I have found rocks and sharp sticks under the mat, but it has never suffered a failure. And again, as with other gear, it is not too heavy to use for an overnight hiking adventure away from base camp.

3. Hema HN7; Hema Explorer App

$625; $30 www.hemamaps.com.au

Hema Maps is the word in vehicle-based GPS units. The HN7 is jam-packed with all the mapping you will need to plan that camping trip: more than 110 Hema 4WD and touring maps are preloaded, along with the Hema Explorer 150k map and a 1:1 million road map. The HN7 covers the whole country with this mix of maps that also includes state maps, regional 4WD maps, national park maps and also complete access to the OziExplorer mapping software. Add in street mapping and you’re sweet to go. Hema’s Explorer mapping app, for use on GPS-enabled smartphones and tablets, is also worth a look, with the added benefit of it being handheld so you can also use it on hikes. The Explorer App allows offline access to Australia-wide 1:250k topo maps, Hema’s touring maps and more than 40,000 points of interest – including a ton of campsites and 4WD tracks. The app also allows real-time tracking via GPS. Online, you can check the weather radar forecast, upload your trip data and loads more.

4. The North Face Base Camp duffel (large)

$240 www.thenorthface.com.au

The ubiquitous adventurer’s carryall, The North Face’s Base Camp duffel comes in a range of sizes (from the 33L XS to the 150L XXL) and is well proved over decades of being dragged across the globe. The Base Camp’s tough outer laminate material offers some water- and dust-resistance, and is robust enough to deal with being dragged across a ute tray or thrown up on a roof rack. The Base Camp’s shoulder straps are surprisingly comfortable when you carry it that way and the padded side handles are great for carrying or using as part of a tie-down system, in combination with the daisy chain set-up on the bag. The large D-shaped opening (with YKK zips) makes for easy packing (as do the four compression straps) and it will last years; I have used a Base Camp on everything from outback trips to mule-assisted multiday hikes and, although scuffed and battered, it still just simply works.

5. The North Face Kaiju 6

$650 www.thenorthface.com.au

For a family or a couple who want a shelter that is not too big when packed but still offers ample storage space when erected, this light (9kg – impressive for a six-person shelter) and tough tent is a no-brainer. Made from PU-coated polyester, with a heavy-duty floor, the Kaiju 6 has oodles of interior space, plus a huge vestibule for storing dirty shoes, wet clothes and backpacks, etc. The three-pole design (with an extra pole for the vestibule) ensures it can withstand rugged weather conditions very well, and the height means most adults will be able to stand up inside. And speaking of inside, you will also find some handy features, such as pockets and internal hanger loops. There’s plenty of mesh for ventilation and to help minimise condensation. An ideal shelter for anyone, and especially appealing for those with a compact 4X4.

6. LED Lenser XEO

$470 www.zenimports.com.au

This is my favourite piece of outdoor/camping equipment at the moment. The XEO is the ultimate versatile lighting source. It can be used as a head-torch around camp, a light source for your bicycle, or as a handheld light. It uses LED Lenser’s Optisense Technology that adjusts light output according to ambient light via an inbuilt sensor. That in itself is pretty cool, but what is also impressive is the fact you can adjust the dual LED lenses individually in terms of focus: set one up as a pencil beam and the other as a spread – ideal for when you’re bike riding at night and want to see the trail in front of you but also keep an eye out to the sides for wildlife/obstacles, etc. The light is easily operated via its top-mounted control pad (nice large buttons). For handheld use, the light itself can be mounted to the battery and then away you go. The battery is quite big but easily mounts to the headband (or can be connected via an extended cable and then thrown in a backpack) or your bike’s handlebars. Brilliant! (And yeah, excuse the pun.)

7. Sea To Summit Comfort Plus

$200-240 www.seatosummit.com.au

This sleeping mat series from Sea To Summit proves you can never have too much technology devoted to sleeping when you’re camping. The Comfort Plus series of mats feature air-sprung cells (small air pockets formed into a dot-weld matrix) that, the theory goes, are designed to take the sleeper’s weight individually. This is supposed to aid in the mat conforming more to your body shape and evenly distributing your weight across the entire mat, rather than pushing the supporting air away from where you need it – under you. Adhering to its Comfort Plus moniker, the mat also features material dubbed Exkin Platinum by STS that is designed to reflect body heat back to the sleeper. The mat is easily inflated to its 50mm height or you can buy an optional pump. One option I would definitely recommend is the Air Chair, which houses a folded-up, inflated mat inside it and makes a nice, comfy camp chair.

8. Wenonah Prospector 15 Tuf-weave; Kevlar Flex-core; Kevlar Ultra-lite

$2800; $3075; $3200 www.paddleportagecanoes.com.au

Nothing beats bundling yourself and the family into a canoe and setting off down a river during the summer. For me, being near a waterway is a must for any summer campsite – as is taking a canoe to make the most of it. The Wenonah Prospector 15 (Kevlar Flex-core) is the ultimate family canoe – both in terms of how it paddles, but also in regards to how much it weighs. At 17kg you never feel like leaving this thing behind; it is light enough for a single person to easily load on the top of the 4X4 and it makes portaging around obstacles on-river easy. The canoe’s symmetrical hull means you can paddle it solo or with someone else, and it also has a decent rocker, allowing it to be easily maneuvered, yet it tracks quite well in flat water as well. The webbing seats inside are supportive and can take, ahem, heavier paddlers, and there’s oodles of storage for camping gear or a couple of young’uns. It’s a definite investment in fun for any adventurous family. (A larger Prospector 16 is also available.)

9. Klean Kanteen Wide

$55 www.zenimports.com.au

When is a water bottle more than a water bottle? When you have one of these near-indestructible jobbies from Klean Kanteen. The Kanteen Wide range (available in three capacities: 800mL, 1.1L, 1.9L) is super-tough, owing to its stainless steel construction, making it ideal for everything from being stored in the back of the 4X4 permanently, to being thrown in the canoe for a day out on the water. The extra wide (50mm) opening allows for quick filling (of both water and ice) and also easy cleaning. The mouth’s thread is also designed to work with standard water filters – always handy when you don’t quite trust a dodgy water source in the outdoors. The interior of the Klean Kanteen (including the inside of the cap itself) is electro-polished which means it will not retain any old flavours from previous fillings, which is great news not only for taste reasons, but also for hygienic reasons. The bottles are dishwasher-friendly, BPA-free and come with a lifetime guarantee.

10. Yakima FourTimer

$749 www.yakima.com.au

Taking a few bikes with you on your next adventure is a great way to add some activities for the whole family and explore around your campsite. The only trouble with lugging bikes around is that they take up a lot of space and are awkward to load… unless you go with a dedicated bike-carry system, such as this FourTimer from Yakima. The FourTimer (for 50mm tow hitches only) is a brilliant solution for carrying four bikes and it suits all bikes regardless of frame design, wheel size or suspension set-up. The low tray height makes loading bikes easy, and the FourTimer also folds down (with bikes loaded) for access to the rear of your vehicle, and then folds up when not in use. It can also convert from a four-bike to two-bike carrier. For us, that’s the FourTimer’s greatest appeal for tourers: the versatility of the load capacity.

The post 10 car camping essentials appeared first on Australian Geographic.

I had had not the slightest inkling of the rock. Hidden under the snow, the first I knew of it was the moment of impact. There had been no loss of control, no sense of impending doom or a train wreck about to happen; instead, it was rather like the manner in which a bug makes an acquaintance with your windscreen. My situation was perhaps not as dire as the aforementioned bug; nonetheless, unquestionably bones had been broken. It was merely, as I have said, a matter of which ones.

Image: James McCormack

The second question, when it became apparent that the answer to the first question was both arms, was, ‘how am I going to wipe my bum?’.

And the third question, given all I knew about the American healthcare system, was , ‘is this going to send me broke?’.

It turned out the second was far easier to answer than third, because after surgery and a couple of nights in hospital, the bills kept rolling in. It started at $4000. That soon climbed to $12,000… then $17,000… then $23,000.

But one question I did not need to ask was who would pay for it. I was insured. But most skiers in my situation would not have been, even if they’d taken out insurance, because I was off-piste. Now, you may think you’ve been all smart and organised and prepared by forking out for travel insurance, and that that means you’ll be covered. Chances are, however, it won’t, as you’ll find out if you delve down deep into all those tedious terms and conditions – it’s here that you’ll find several clauses that most travel insurance companies don’t tend to highlight.

In most cases, those clauses are strict: no skiing. Full stop. Unless, that is, you pay extra for their specific winter sports coverage. But don’t think that paying this additional premium is the end of the story, because a reading of the fine print reveals the majority of premiums only cover you on-piste. And unless you are a rank beginner, you’re unlikely to stick solely to the trails when all the powder lies off them. Legally speaking – and trust me, if something actually happens to you, legalese is exactly the language insurance companies will use with you – you could be just a few metres off-piste and you no longer have coverage.

True, a few insurers do allow off-piste, but again for most, you guessed it, there’s a caveat: as long as you’re with a professional guide. Yeah, right, you’re gonna hire a guide to head over to those half-dozen untracked turns you’ve spied over in the trees?

The number of insurers who let you ski independently off-piste are very few indeed. And that’s before you throw in the final hurdle: you want not only to head off-piste but to go beyond a resort’s boundaries and into the backcountry. Independently, at that. Or you want to go heli-skiing. And now we are looking at very few companies indeed. In fact, a recent Google search for “ski insurance” did not turn up one company in the first two pages of hits that actually covered you for all off-piste and backcountry skiing, even if you forked out extra for their so-called “snow packs”. There were a couple that came close, but even then they had other conditions, like only covering you from mid-December until 31 March, or not covering search and rescues.

Just before I went on my trip to Utah, I’d been lucky/tenacious/pigheaded enough not to give in. I spent night after night wading through the Product Disclosure Statements of dozens of insurers, combing through the fine print. In short, I found just three who’ll cover you for off-piste, backcountry and heli-skiing: QBE, IHI Bupa, and AAMI. But QBE requires you to purchase a winter Snow Pack to get coverage, and IHI Bupa – who I was with that day in Utah, and, I must say, were great – is technically not even necessarily travel insurance, because you can purchase their medical-only component.

The clear winner however is AAMI. For less than IHI’s medical-only premium, AAMI’s standard travel insurance will cover you. There’s no need to purchase a special winter premium, and there are no caveats, and no tricky clauses. There’s just
one exception: that you’re not engaging in competitive skiing.

So if you’re heading over to chase Northern Hemisphere pow this upcoming winter, and you want to cover yourself from medical bills potentially taking your house, shirt, undies and every last item you have, save yourself a week of farting about trying to figure out which insurer will cover you and just start with AAMI. Now, perhaps some other equally favourable insurer exists that I haven’t yet stumbled upon in my many nights of internet research, but of the dozens I had checked out, AAMI was seriously head and shoulders above the rest. It’s rare in this day and age of competition that it can be so cut and dried.

The post Under cover: understanding ski insurance appeared first on Australian Geographic.

This was supposed to be a beginners’ trek. I was sold a sunrise summit on the granite turret of Mt Kinabalu, with views of Borneo and out to the ocean.

Instead I was caught in a typhoon, wishing I was waterproof. My best mate was vomiting a few metres below me as my hardcore super-Mum coaxed me up from above.

Half our group turned back at the last hut, tearful and shaking, but I was adamant I would continue. It wasn’t out of pride, but rather concern that I’d be wasting the pain it cost my legs and lungs to get me this far. (And there may have been some scoffing about ‘Princess Bella’ that I was keen to shove somewhere.)

I pushed through. The summit was spectacular. No views or sunrise, but a breathtaking, unqualifiable joy. I silently thanked those soft sand sprints and smiled.

A few years later, I was perched on yet another rock with a pounding head and jelly legs, gasping for breath. As I pulled my glove off, goose bumps crept up my arm and across my previously warm belly. I shivered.

It was a clear day, but clouds kissed the summits of the surrounding peaks, and the quiet stillness felt almost intimate.

As I basked in the shadows of the highest mountains on earth, my raw cheeks cracked into a Cheshire grin. It was magical.

There were 12 of us panting at Everest Base Camp, rugged up in various shades of purple. A group of everyday chicks, ranging in age from 19 to over 55, had made it with ease – if you ignore the reasonable trail of vomit left in our wake.

Trekking at altitude is no walk in the park.

Sure, you’ll hear stories of young fit blokes running to Machu Picchu weighed down with rum filled backpacks, but for most people, trekking requires physical and mental preparation, especially if you want to enjoy the journey and appreciate the spectacular wilderness.

You need to train your body and mind to walk on steep, undulating terrain, with an 8-20kg backpack, for 8-10 hours, in all weather, at altitude. Often with diarrhoea.

This is why you need trek training.

“Trek training is a specialised outdoor adventure fitness training program to prepare the body for Life-Changing Adventures,” says Di Westaway, CEO of Wild Women On Top and author of How to Prepare for World Class Treks. “It is designed to make trekking and hiking less arduous, safer and more enjoyable.”

Essentially, the more time and effort you put into trek training prior to your adventure, the more you will be able to enjoy the culture, exquisite scenery and great satisfaction that comes from safely achieving a wilderness adventure challenge. In addition to being an adventure, every trek training session should include some interval training on hills, stairs and/or soft sand, some hiking on undulating terrain, rock scrambling as well as core stretching and strengthening activities in nature. Here’s how:

High Intensity Interval Training

High Intensity Interval Training (HIIT) might be the latest trend in the fitness industry but it has been used by mountain climbers and trekkers for decades. It involves short bursts of high intensity effort, followed by a recovery period. Trek Training expert Lisa Marshall says, “HIIT is time efficient, and it gets you fitter faster.”

Stair or hill HIIT is a brilliant way to increase your fitness and prepare you for trekking at altitude. The more stairs you huff and puff up in training, the less your head is going to ache at 4000m, because your body can suck more oxygen out of the air. And the descent helps you build strong leg muscles so you can climb high passes with ease. Bonus points for bum toning!

The best way to do it is to find a set of stairs that takes you one to two minutes to get to the top. After a warm-up, do 10 sets. Push yourself on the ascent until you’re really puffing, and then focus on control on the descent.

You can add intensity in two ways: without impact by putting on a backpack, starting at 5kg and getting 0.5kg heavier each week, until you reach 18-20kg; and with high intensity and high impact by jogging up and down the stairs. Di recommends five sets with pack and five sets without for the best results.

Soft sand HIIT is a real winner when it comes to pushing your body in a short period of time. Di says, “It really gets your heart and lungs fit because you sink into it with each step. It’s a bit like hiking on snow, which is awesome if you’re trekking in the Alps.”

Find a sandy beach and put two markers 50m apart on the sand. Do sets between the markers, alternating between running, shuffling, jumping, skipping and high-knees running. Repeat 10 times and do it with and without pack weight. It’s a killer.

Undulating tracks are wiggly, windy, hilly trails in the bush. Go hike them with a heavy pack and trekking poles, for two to eight hours in all weather. “You can do it on bush trails, coastal tracks, rocks, soft sand, anywhere in nature,” says Lisa.

The best way to do it, suggests Lisa, is to gently to warm up, then gradually pick up the pace. Start with a 5kg pack, and increase by 0.5-1kg per week until you’re carrying 18-20kg. Aim to cover 3-6km per hour, depending on your pack weight, taking breaks every 90 minutes for a stretch, drink or snack.

Technical walking

Multiday treks require a certain fitness level for you to enjoy them. (Photo credit: Justin Walker)

Technical walking includes a number of techniques to assist you to stay safe and in control in wild rugged locations. Di says, “It requires excellent balance, strength, core control, cardio fitness and upper body confidence to manage difficult conditions.” Technical walking includes rock scrambling and the pause step.

Rock scrambling is the ability to scramble and hop around rocky gullies, rivers and boulders, as well as trekking along steep ledges, creek edges and headlands without going for a tumble. You’ll need to bend, stretch, leap, hop, jump and climb to improve your coordination and balance, as well as to strengthen muscles, ligaments and tendons.

Find a rocky area, nature’s gym, nearby – coastline, river banks, hills, mountains or a kids’ playground. Scramble along the obstacles, trying to use your hands, feet and bum.

The pause step is a technique used at altitude to assist you in maintaining a slow and even pace to keep your heart rate calm. It allows you to climb at altitudes over 3000m for long periods of time with less fatigue, preventing altitude sickness.

To master the pause step, walk up a set of stairs, pausing for a second or two in between each step as you let your back leg relax, and lock momentarily while you place your front leg on the next step. The goal of the practice is to ascend the stairs without increasing your heart rate at all, which is surprisingly hard to do.

Preparing for beginners’ treks

Joining a trek training group, such as Wild Women on Top (pictured) makes training far more enjoyable. (Photo credit: Justin Walker)

Follow this guide to prepare for treks such as Australia’s Mt Kosciusko, Coast to Coast in the UK, the Mont Blanc Circuit in Europe and Mt Kinabalu, Borneo.

Plan your week as follows:

1 x 2 hour undulating trek

1 x 60 minute interval, soft sand or rock scrambling training session without pack

1 x 60 minute interval training session with pack1-2 x 1 hour relaxation and injury prevention sessions, such as cycling, yoga, swimming or pilates

Preparing for intermediate treks

Machu Picchu in Peru, and Aussie classics including the Overland Track, the Larapinta Trail and the Jatbula Trail are excellent options for intermediates. 

Plan your week as follows:

1 x 3-6 hour undulating trek with 5-10kg pack

1 x 90 minute interval training session with 5-8kg pack

1 x 60 minute soft sand or rock scrambling training session without pack

1-2 x 60 minute relaxation and injury prevention sessions, such as cycling, yoga, swimming or pilates

The post Skills: trek training appeared first on Australian Geographic.

That such an incident can occur on a lake – albeit a large and very cold lake – underlines the fact that you don’t need to be miles out to sea to find yourself in a potentially life-threatening situation. As all experienced paddlers know, when you’re kayaking on open water, your situation can change dramatically with a simple change in the wind, a drop in temperature or an elementary mistake by you or someone you’re with.

Each and every time you venture into open water in a kayak, you need to think the potential scenarios through carefully, pack what you need (including emergency communications), wear the right gear (and take spares), allow for changing conditions and let people know what your plans are. This isn’t about being a killjoy; it’s about living to tell the tale of your aquatic adventures, including the ones that went belly-up, but which you had the skill/gear to extricate yourself from in one piece.

Training

Ideally, before you go paddling anywhere, you should undertake basic training with an Australia Canoeing-qualified instructor. You can sign up to do fun and informative courses (which might just save your life) at various places around Australia, such as East Coast Kayaking in Melbourne. Your local sea kayaking club will either offer courses or refer you to someone who does.

“There is a lot to know,” stresses Rohan Klopfer from East Coast Kayaking. “Get one thing wrong and the lemons can start to stack up, and ultimately you can end up paying for it with your life.”

The essential safety kit for any sea kayak adventure.

Weather 

The ability to understand and interpret predicted and prevailing weather conditions is crucial. You need to know what difference it will make if the wind is ‘on-shore’ or ‘off-shore’, and what impact things like fetch waves (wind-whipped waves) will have on your paddling experience.

In blustery conditions, experienced kayakers will seek out a wind shadow – an area that is leeward (downwind) of an object – such as a harbour wall, or a moored boat that will offer protection from the wind. “Lee is a kayakers’ best friend,” says Rohan. “Launch, paddle and land in lee.”

Always double-check the forecast before you depart on a paddle. This will allow you to make an informed decision about whether to go out, and what to wear. Be prepared to change your plans according to what you learn from the forecast – even if that means postponing the trip.

“When weighing up whether to go out, understand the limitations of your craft, yourself and your paddling partners,” emphasises Rohan. “You should be able to read the weather and environment while you’re paddling, and there should be contingency plans up your sleeve. Communication – with your paddling partners and someone on dry land – is key.”

Clothing

The number one rule of kayaking clobber is: No cotton. Cotton kills. “It’s better to be hot and bothered than cold and emotional,” observes Rohan. “You can always cool off, but you can’t always warm up.”

Clothing must protect you from the environment, from things like the sun, cold, wind, insects (bugs) and sharp stuff like coral. When your clothing gets wet, it still needs to be capable of keeping you warm. Layers are good, with Merino making an excellent material to wear.

Even if the weather is nice, chuck a cag (canoeing jacket) into the boat in case it cools down later. In extremely cold water, a dry suit should really be considered. Always carry spare clothing for emergencies.

Communication

Communications and group management are incredibly important areas. Make sure everyone understands what whistles, paddle movements and hand signals might be used. Make sure you leave your plan with someone staying on dry land. Also take VHF radios, mobile phones in waterproof cases, PLBs and EPIRBS. Here’s a good video on paddle signals.

Rescue

Have the right safety great – along with the skills to use it – and you can concentrate solely on enjoying your next paddle trip.

Another reason to take a kayaking course is to learn and perfect your basic paddle strokes, so you can stay in control of your craft and keep upright. If, however, things go wrong and you end up belly-up, you need to know how to self-rescue. There are various ways to do this, but a paddle float will make things much easier, and this is a piece of kit you should carry at all times, and practice using. Here’s a good video on self-rescue and one on self-rescue cowboy scramble.

If you can’t get back in your boat, it’s imperative you stay with is. A kayak makes a very handy float, and it’s easily visible from the air if someone is looking for you.

Did you know? 

In most states of Australia, if you are paddling more than two nautical miles offshore, you are required by marine law to carry with you certain stipulated pieces of safety equipment. There are several bloody good reasons for this, but can you name this required gear? Has it even crossed your mind to check how far you’re venturing out to sea? Have you got a contingency plan if everything suddenly goes south?

There’s a great video on Essential Off-Shore Sea Kayaking Safety.

Equipment essentials

Equipment required when off-shore paddling in Victorian waters, as stipulated by maritime law:

• Personal flotation device (PFD)
• Waterproof, buoyant torch
• Electronic bilge pump system (which operates hands-free, allowing you to continue to paddle), or a manual bilge system
• 2 x handheld red distress flares
• 2 x handheld orange smoke signals
• Compass
• Spare paddle
• 406 Mhz Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB)
• 360-degree white light (if you’re paddling after dark)

Highly recommended additional safety equipment:

• Mobile phone and appropriate waterproof case
• Watch
• Pea-less marine whistle (for communication in low visibility)
• VHF (Very High Frequency) radio
• 15-metre floating towline
• Short-line tow rope
• Safety knife
• Baseplate compass
• Paddle float
• Paddle leash
• Parachute rocket
• V-sheet
• Sea dye
• Float plan
• Food and water (in appropriate quantities for the journey you’re undertaking)
• Triage first-aid kit
• Spare clothing – fleece, merino or polypropylene (NOT COTTON)
• Basic repair kit

The post How to paddle offshore and in open water appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Brightness

The light output of head torches is measured in lumens, which is essentially the useable light output, or the measure of the total amount of visible light. While there are other methods of measuring light output, lumens is the most relevant in the case of torches because it relates to visible light; the more lumens, the brighter the light.

There are no specific regulations pertaining to the measurement of light output in lumens, however. “In the flashlight and the headlight world, lumens isn’t everything,” warns David Yates, Director Zen Imports, the Australian distributor of LED Lenser head torches. “If one light says 50 lumens and another light says 50 lumens, it doesn’t mean they’re exactly the same.”

Power options

Generally, the more lumens produced by a head torch, the more power it will consume, and therefore the more battery power it will need.

While many head torches will use standard alkaline batteries, others have rechargeable batteries (usually by way of a USB cable), and others offer a combination of both.

“Most headlights these days use alkaline AA or AAA batteries, and a different configuration of either one, two, three or four batteries,” says David Yates. “Some really lightweight headlamps, like the Neo from LED Lenser that’s designed for runners, uses one battery, so it’s very lightweight, but then there’s the H14 which uses four AAs, which is arguably the brightest headlamp in the world, but that’s obviously a lot heavier…”

Image: Marc Daviet

While lightweight head torches with only one or two batteries will usually have the light and power source contained at the front of the unit, larger, more powerful units will have a separate battery pack.

Of course, any electronic device that uses alkaline batteries can also use nickel-metal hydride (Ni-MH) rechargeable batteries, and these are a good alternative as they can be charged via a standard Ni-MH charger or, in the case of some models, while they’re still in the torch. “Petzl has some products that include a nickel-metal hydride battery that you recharge via USB,” says Greg Foord, Sales Manager for Spelean Australia, distributor of Petzl head torches.

Another power source is the lithium-ion battery, as employed on some LED Lenser models. “There are two types of lithium-ion batteries,” says David Yates. “LED Lenser has pioneered this new battery called lithium-iron; the iron component, it holds the charge longer and it’s got more capacity from the same size, and it’s a much more environmentally friendly battery.”

David explains that there’s a choice of charging options, too. “You can pull [the batteries] out and put them in a little cradle if you want to charge a separate battery, or just plug the micro-USB straight into the unit and it recharges.”

Alternatively, David says the lithium-iron battery can even be removed and replaced by standard alkaline batteries if there are no charging options available. “LED Lenser rechargeables, you can pull out the little square lithium battery inside and in place of that, if it runs out of juice, you can put four AAAs or four AAs in its place.” This is also the case with some other brands.

“The bigger the head torch gets the more output required, which then requires a larger battery which then puts the battery pack at the back of the head, or in some cases you can also buy an optional belt kit which you can then pop on your belt or in your hydration bag or backpack behind you,” explains Greg Foord.

Tailored light

“The first thing people should do when they’re looking for a headlamp is they should firstly ask why they want a headlamp over a handheld,” says David Yates. “Obviously so they can keep their hands free, but what type of activity they’re going to be doing. If they’re going to be working underneath a car there’s a different type of headlight you would use than opposed to doing the Oxfam [Trailwalker]… ”

David is referring to a head torch’s ability to focus the light in the most useable manner depending on the task at hand; whether it has a spread beam, a spot beam or a lens that can be adjusted to suit different requirements.

“One of the biggest advantages of an LED Lenser product [is] the fact that it’s got a patented lens that you can focus from a flood beam to a spot beam, so in essence a really wide light if you’re doing something up close like fishing or if you wanted to penetrate a long dark area like a cave, so you could do that with one product.”

One of the latest developments in head torches is adaptive lighting technology, where the light output is automatically adjusted according to ambient conditions.

“There’s a reactive mode in some of Petzl’s head torches [where light] essentially reflects back into a light sensor which [automatically] adjusts the light output accordingly,” explains Greg Foord. “If you’re reading a map you obviously don’t want to be blinded by a couple of hundred lumens, so it reduces the output back to anywhere between seven to 20 lumens if you’re reading a map, right in front of your face, and then as soon as you look away the sensor realises that it’s not getting any bounced back light, and it might then boost the light up to its maximum, from 170 to 200, 500 lumens, depending on the head torch.”

LED Lenser employs a similar system with a light sensor that the company calls Optisense. “Imagine the scenario where [the head torch is] on full beam… if you’re walking through a dark trail, then you want to look at your map, so you pull your map up and the reflection actually gets registered inside the sensor and the headlamp will automatically dim to the appropriate light,” says David yates.

Many head torches also offer different light-output settings so, when you don’t require full output, you can have the torch emitting 30 per cent of its capacity, for example. This technology not only allows you to tailor the light but also conserve battery power if needed.

Comfort and weight

Finding a head torch that you’ll find comfortable to wear, and one that isn’t too heavy, should have a big bearing on your purchase decision. “Comfort is very important,” says David Yates. “Obviously you’ll be wearing it on your head for a long period of time… so a lot of ergonomics go into the design of the fit… they’ve all got elastic straps that can be easily adjusted.”

Most head torches will also offer up and down adjustability so you can direct the light where it’s needed.

Another aspect to take into account is ease of use. When you’re looking at different models, ask questions like are the controls easily accessible, and are the buttons/switches big enough that they can be easily operated while wearing thick gloves, for example.

Design and toughness

You don’t want a head torch that’s going to break the first time you drop it, so look for a robust unit that looks like it will handle a beating, but not something that’s so heavily constructed it’ll end up being (literally) a pain in the neck to wear. 

As you’ll be using your head torch in the outdoors, it’s obviously going to need a fair amount of water resistance, which is measured with an IP rating on a scale of 0-8, where a rating of IPX0 means that there is basically no resistance to water ingress and a rating of IPX8 means that it can be completely submerged without water ingress. 

“Something with IPX8 would be completely submergible, designed for a diver,” says David Yates. “There are not many headlights that do that; I don’t know of any. But anything IPX4 and above is more than fine to use in heavy rain.”

Design

Other than price, the final factor to take into account when buying a head torch is design. 

“Colour and style comes into it a lot,” says David Yates. “There are often a variety of colours to pick from, and LED Lenser is no exception.” 

Browse a few of the head torch manufacturer websites and you’ll be blown away by the range of designs and colours on offer.

Even if you’re not fussed by the colour of your next head torch, as we’ve outlined here in this feature there are still many things to take in to consideration when making a purchase decision: battery and charging options; lens adjustability; light output; water resistance; and comfort, to name a few.

The post Outdoor tech: head torches appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Yes, I know, it’s a highly embarrassing problem for a bloke my age, and not the sort of thing you can discuss in all circles. But the nuts I’m referring to are the little wedge-shaped bits of metal that traditional climbers jam into rock cracks and crevices as they are climbing. They then clip the rope attached to their harness to these little nuts and, should the climber fall, they hope madly that the nuts will stay in place to prevent them from becoming a hard-to-clean-up mess at the bottom of a cliff. 

I’ve used this method virtually since I started climbing, albeit with other people’s equipment, and only recently bought my own ‘trad rack’ – a stack of gear called ‘protection’ with an assortment of nuts (or ‘wires’) and spring-loaded camming devices.
The first few times I used my own gear, I put nuts into what I thought were really good spots then, to my horror, once I’d climbed 5m or so past them, they would pop off the rock and slide uselessly down the rope. It’s an extremely disconcerting sight when you are dangling by your fingertips. 

So here I am, at Blue Mountains Climbing School in Katoomba (part of the Blue Mountains Adventure Company), signed up for a whole day of one-on-one instruction with a climbing doctor to ensure my nuts stay where they’re meant to.

Why bother?

In recent decades, traditional rock-climbing has been completely overtaken in popularity by sport climbing. In sport climbing areas, someone has already gone to the cliff and installed a series of metal bolts or rings all the way up the cliff. The climber then doesn’t need to think about where to put their ‘protection’ – they just clip their rope into every little bolt or steel ring that they come across.

As long as the bolts were installed correctly, this is generally a safer way of climbing, and more suited to climbers who have migrated to the real world from a climbing gym. It involves a lot less thinking, for a start. As long-term climbing instructor Chris Peisker, of the Climbing Company, in Natimuk, Victoria, says: “In traditional climbing, about 50 per cent of your mental attention is focused on putting your gear in, and about 50 per cent on the climbing itself, whereas in sport climbing, 100 per cent is on the climbing.” 

The concentration required for traditional climbing, the sometimes fiddly nature of putting in natural protection, and the extra weight of all that equipment tugging on your harness, usually means that people climb at a considerably lower grade when trad climbing, as opposed to sports climbing. In my case, I drop about four grades on the Australian Ewbank system when I climb traditionally. So you can lose a little of the rush of pulling off hard moves.

So why bother?

If climbing outdoors is a form of communion with the rock – a blending of the inanimate with the human form – then the experience becomes even more intimate as you climb traditionally, having to think about all its cracks and crevices, studying and feeling all its form and features. In many places, climbing traditionally allows you to get away from the well-travelled pre-bolted routes and into more interesting, adventurous routes. And there are plenty of fantastic, popular routes that require at least some level of traditional protection. If you can climb traditionally it opens up a whole new world: from the climbing Mecca of Mt Arapiles in Victoria (where every Aussie climber should go once in their life), to hundreds of long, multi-pitch routes in the Blue Mountains, Frog Buttress in Queensland, dolerite climbs in Tasmania and elsewhere.

According to Chris, people should ideally start trad climbing as soon as they can. “There’s no issue in going from trad to sport climbing, but the other way around is like going from driving an automatic to a manual; there’s a lot more skill involved,” he says. 

“For people who start climbing with trad, their experience advances along with their climbing ability. But those who go from sport climbing to trad climbing really have to take a big step backwards, and they might not feel like they’re pushing themselves that much.”

For example, sport climbers who are used to climbing overhangs are unlikely to be able to climb at that level when they are learning to place rock-solid pieces of gear into the rock to protect themselves. They’re more likely – particularly initially – to be doing gentler climbs with plenty of ledges or rest places to carefully place gear.

Climbing 101 

The Blue Mountains Climbing School has plenty of good instructors, and I chose to spend the day with Eric Butler. I’d previously climbed some big routes both in the Blue Mountains and in Warrumbungle National Park with him. He is an extraordinary young man – a quiet, self-assured adventuring 24-year-old who tells no one about his adventures, but just goes out and achieves them. Whether walking solo through the thickest wilds of Wollemi National Park, or scaling some huge cliff with dodgy rock that few others would brave, he does everything with a quiet, unassuming confidence and unflappability that just engenders respect. 

We spend our day at Mt Piddington, which is known as the best spot in the Blue Mountains to learn trad climbing techniques. There are more than 200 routes here, and the vast majority are under grade 20, with more than 50 graded 15 or less (and therefore considered ‘easy’ – the open-ended Ewbank system currently goes up to ridiculously hard climbs in the low 30s). 

We start on the 24m climb ‘Joseph’ (grade 14). It’s a cracker, rated with four stars, and Eric encouraged me to place as much protection as possible, so I put in a piece every metre or so.

Climbing protection is divided into passive protection and active protection. Active protection is generally spring-loaded and so squeezes itself into place. Passive protection includes the wedge-shaped nuts and other larger pieces called hexes that have to be placed extra carefully to hold a fall. As he followed me up the climb, he then rated every piece of gear on a scale of 1-10, with 1 being “couldn’t hold the nut tool” to “absolute, perfect bomber”. None of my pieces popped out, but I really didn’t do too well, with a lot of my pieces rated around the 5 mark. And a 50 per cent chance of breaking a fall really isn’t great odds.

Tips and tricks

We spend the next few hours on the ground, placing piece after piece into slots and holes, with Eric showing me some of the things to look for. 

“There are three things you’ve got to consider when placing gear,” he says. “Firstly, the integrity of the rock – is the rock actually good enough to hold the piece?” He points out a couple of boulders that could become detached if someone jammed a piece of gear into the cracks around them. “Secondly, what is the shape of the crack you are putting the gear in? If it is a parallel crack, use cams. If it is a V-shape, it’s more suitable for wires or hexes.

“Thirdly, how much surface area of the piece is in contact with the rock?” Eric shows me how the pieces of passive protection are shaped peculiarly so that by turning them different ways you can maximise their contact with the rock. “If it’s the right size, but you’re not getting much contact between it and the rock, just try turning it,” he says.
He then describes what happens at a micro level when a climber does fall onto a piece of gear. In Blue Mountains sandstone, the piece slides a little as the sandstone crumbles a fraction. A bigger piece of gear dissipates the falling climber’s energy over a larger area of rock than a smaller piece – so if there is a choice in a particular crack, always use a bigger piece, he says. 

Eric encourages me to “seat” my nuts better – again it, ahem, sounds a little delicate, but basically to give them a really good tug. “Really weld it in there,” he says, giving the carabiner attached to the nut three hard pulls. “Of course, it may depend who is seconding the climb – if they are a beginner [who may struggle to get out a piece of gear that is solidly wedged in place], you may have to recognise that you’ll occasionally have to leave a piece there. But it’s better to be safe.” 

We then look at the strengths and weaknesses of cams. They lose a lot of their strength if they are “overcammed” or “undercammed”, and I had a tendency to undercam them – putting them in a position where most of the spring was already extended. I generally needed to choose a larger size, or squeeze them into smaller spaces to make them more effective. “If you have no choice but to either overcam or undercam them, then overcame,” Eric advises. He shows me how to tell the ideal range. 

Because they actively grip the rock, cams are much better at holding multi-directional pulls than nuts, Eric says, “So in most cases make your very first piece that you put in a cam rather than a wire”. The cam can usually handle the movement and the angle of rope between the belayer and the climber without being pulled out. Similarly, whenever the climb changes direction, put in a cam rather than a wire. 

He also suggests that when the climb changes direction I use a longer sling (60cm) between the piece of protection and the rope. This means that the rope above is less likely to pull out the piece of gear because of the angle. If the climb is not very straight up and down, but wanders all over the place, nearly every piece will need a longer sling. This will also help minimise rope drag. 

Surprisingly, Eric then shows me how cams can walk backwards into the crack when they are moved from side to side. This is not always a problem, because it can sometimes make them more secure, but if the crack in which you’ve placed them flares towards the back, it can be a serious problem. 

Next Eric shows me how to establish and quickly equalise a bomb-proof belay, using a 7-8m piece of cordelette or thin rope. With a small figure-8 knot in each end of the cordelette, you clip the two ends into one of your points of protection. Then clip the other end of what is now a loop into one of the other pieces of protection, and then a single part of the loop into the remaining one or two pieces. You should then have a series of loops hanging down. Even up these loops, and then tie an overhand knot in the whole lot. This means that should any one piece fail, the rest of the system remains intact. 

After all this, it’s time to go climbing again. Thankfully I’ve been paying attention, and Eric follows me up with a smile. “That was a nine,” he says of one little nut near the top. “And that hex lower down was absolutely perfect – bomber!” 

Ahh, finally I can rest knowing that my nuts are now far more likely to stay where we all want them.

Where can I learn?

It is recommended that you learn trad climbing from an experienced climber or through paid instruction. The best places for instruction are in the key climbing areas of the Blue Mountains, NSW, and Mt Arapiles and the Grampians, Vic.

NSW

Blue Mountains Climbing School 

Blue Mountains Adventure Company

VIC

The Climbing Company 

TAS 

Rock Climbing Adventures Tasmania

Further reading:

Mountaineering: the freedom of the hills, edited by Ronald C. Eng.

The post School of rock appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Water-based adventures experienced at a young age and shared with family members often create strong and enduring memories, which can translate into lifelong interests and help develop crucial skills. Paddling, for example, encourages forward planning, risk assessment and teamwork, as well as providing exercise and enjoyment – quality time all round. 

In the right environment and with appropriate safety measures in place, girls and boys can start enjoying paddling trips from when they’re toddlers. A canoe is especially well suited to such adventures, because most models will allow you to get the whole family in the boat together – as well as the dog and a picnic. 

Travis Frenay is a highly qualified canoe instructor and assessor for Australian Canoeing, who has a young family and owns Paddle & Portage Canoes. A lifelong open-boat paddler, he points out that canoes have several important advantages over kayaks for young families, starting with space and comfort. 

“A canoe can swallow an unfathomable amount of gear and equipment,” says Travis.

“Choosing a boat with just two seats doesn’t mean that the canoe can only carry two people – the payload of a canoe often exceeds the requirements for two people to go on a week-long journey, so the addition of a couple of smaller occupants isn’t going to create any trouble. 

“Extra, temporary, seats can be added, or kids may choose to create a comfortable seat on the floor. It’s crucial, though, to make sure that any extra seats have a low centre of gravity so that the new occupants contribute to the canoe’s stability rather than compromise it. A kids’ plastic outdoor chair with the legs cut short makes for a great temporary seat that can be added anywhere.”

Getting started 

Safety first 

When you’re introducing kids to any outdoor pursuit your number one consideration has to be safety. This is particularly true in the case of canoeing, when you might be dealing with moving water, obstacles, tides, swell, surf and exposure to cold conditions. 

You need to get children used to wearing a proper PFD as a matter of course, so they don’t even think about it – like a bike helmet. Make sure it’s comfortable for them to wear – that will definitely help. Younger infants will require a child-specific PFD, one with a design that will support their head and keep it above water, and also have a strap between their legs so they don’t pop out of it.

Be mindful not to scare children away from healthy pursuits right from the outset, though. While it’s important to explain to kids why they have to dress appropriately, wear a PFD and what to do in the event of a capsize, you should keep the experience a positive adventure at all times.

Keep ’em keen

It’s crucial when introducing children to any new outdoor pursuit that you don’t let negative experiences cloud their first memories of the activity. If you let them get cold, hungry, bored or scared during their first outing, chances are you’ll struggle to get them overly enthused about going out on the water with you again.

Kids have memories like elephants and will store negative experiences for years. Keep your early paddling adventures short and sweet, getting to the pull-out while they’re still keen to continue – this will keep them excited about getting out on the water next time. Make sure they’re wearing good warm gear, and take an emergency supply of lollies just in case you’re gone longer that you expect to be. 

Paint paddling as a fun experience right from the start, for example by promising to take kids out in the kayak or canoe as a reward for doing well at school or for good behaviour.

Trav’s tips

• “We try to make canoeing fun for the kids and it really isn’t hard. We let them choose a few of their own items to pack that they get to take responsibility for. We also have room to bring things that will make them comfortable such as a folding camp chair and a hammock. A few edible treats certainly don’t hurt, either!”

Get geared up 

Besides their own PFD and some warm clothing, get the children some canoeing equipment of their own – this will keep them enthusiastic and make them feel involved. Kids’ canoe paddles are a nice idea, and a canoe barrel is also a great investment as it’s a good vessel for storing food and/or equipment (including books and toys).

Trav’s tips 

• “Our kids like to know where their things are and a barrel is a great bit of kit that they can access themselves. Allowing them to add their ‘special items’ at the top of the barrel means that they can unscrew the lid and get to them whenever they need to.”

Plan your paddle 

Do your homework and paddle a stretch of water yourself, alone, before you take kids to the same spot. Make note of any potential hazards such as strainers and identify additional pull-out points should you need to call an early end to the adventure. Starting on a lake, a calm bay or a slow-paced river is highly recommended.

Trav’s tips

• “A flatwater venue that’s not overly wind-prone is going to increase your chances of having an enjoyable trip. If the conditions are challenging and you’re obviously stressed then it’s likely going to have a negative effect on their experience.”

Make it an adventure 

Choose the location of your trips carefully. Make each outing an adventure with a mission objective and weight the odds of success in your favour by doing a recce of the place first to familiarise yourself with natural features and points of interest. For example, you might set kids the task of trying to spot a particular animal – such as flying foxes – and then take them canoeing down a certain stretch of river where you know a colony can be found up in the trees. Other ideas could include hunting down a ‘smuggler’s cave’ or locating a ‘mermaid’s rock’ along a featured coast – you know best what gets your kids excited, so tailor the trip accordingly and let your imagination run riot.

Trav’s tips 

• “Paddling close to shore means children can be on the lookout for lizards, snakes, fish, and other wildlife on the land. In our area we regularly see water dragons, lyrebirds, wombats, wallabies, kangaroos and goannas.”

Get them crewing 

The great advantage that a canoe has over a kayak is that you can be in the same boat as your children. However, encourage them to be active crewmembers rather than passive passengers. Give them a paddle and get them involved from the start. This will give them a feel for the water, impart a sense of achievement and keep them warm, all at the same time. As they progress, teach them some basic strokes and skills. Let them make mistakes instead of compensating for them, so they quickly understand what consequence each action has.

Fan the flames of enthusiasm 

Plan pull-outs so they’re at places where you can buy kids a treat such as an ice cream to reward them for their efforts (this will also keep them occupied while you get the boat up on the car). After each trip, make them feel like they have really achieved something by showing them how far they’ve paddled on a map. 

When conditions are right and the evenings are long and warm, consider taking kids on an overnight paddling trip – this is a great way to keep things exciting and memorable.

Trav’s tips

• At camp, we often pull the canoes up on land and let the kids climb around and play in them without the worry of falling into the water. It really seems to increase their comfort with the boat and is probably something that could be done before even leaving home, to acclimatise them with the new mode of transport.

And finally, when you’ve taught them everything you know, why not enrol in a skills course together so you can learn more advanced techniques at the same time? Canoeing can be a great introduction to whitewater paddling, and before you know it, they’ll be teaching you how to boat better.

“Canoeing is one of the most amazing ways kids can experience whitewater,” says Jez Jezz, Captain of the Australian Freestyle Team, World Cup Champion and kids’ canoeing coach. “It’s like putting on training wheels for kids. Children often get apprehensive about being in a kayak, with a skirt locking them in, but canoeing is often a whole lot freer. Canoeing, from my experience, opens kids eyes to whitewater, a way of catching the bug that may lead to bigger things.”

The post Canoeing with the kids appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Of course, it had taken me a while to get to this stage. In fact this was day three of Adventure Consultants’ five-day ice climbing course at Wye Creek near Queenstown – a snow-blanketed wonderland of rock buttresses draped with icicles of all shapes and sizes. It was my first foray into water ice and I was hoping to go from bumbling novice to ice champion in one working week.

A tricky climb, and this is just the base of the real climb.

Starting off 

My companions for the week were Kate and Josh, both Australians, and our guide Paul, who is possibly the most experienced ice climbing guide in the country, despite being a Londoner. We met at the helicopter hangar on a Monday when Q’town could have been mistaken for Bangladesh in mid-monsoon. I naively hoped that rain in town would translate to bountiful snow and perfect conditions at Wye Creek – the last thing we wanted was water in our waterfalls – but with our transport into the mountains inevitably delayed Paul sat us down for a review of the forthcoming week’s weather; the traditional ‘management of expectations’ ceremony. It didn’t bode well: the prediction was for intermittent wind and snow.

My desire to climb proper ice began more than 10 years ago in Bolivia. Backpacking around South America I signed on to climb Huayna Potosi, a 6088m peak just outside La Paz. It was only a two-day affair but the summit involved ascending a 50° snow slope using crampons and an ice axe. I even got to use the hitherto pointless ice-axe loop on my backpack, making me feel like a proper mountaineer. I was smitten, but life intervened and it took me until last year to attend a Mountain Skills Course on the Tasman Glacier, where I had so much fun climbing out of a crevasse that my craving for ice had been re-ignited.

The rain finally stopped long enough for our lift to take us safely in, all of about a five-minute ride. As the chopper chopped away, Paul pointed out the theatre of operations, known as the Iron Curtain; an uneven wall of rocks, tumbled snow and frozen cascades a few hundred metres away. Our accommodation was a couple of semi-permanent, wooden-floored canvas tents. Oh, and we had a bucket serving as a toilet, which was reached via a 25m wade through thigh-deep snow; this was supposed to be behind a boulder but the southerly was so vicious that we had to pull it out of the wind and anybody answering the call of nature did so in full view of the tents.

The whole shebang is flown in each season in by Adventure Consultants; the company has been running ice-climbing courses here for 10 years. A number of factors combine to make Wye Creek the best such venue in NZ: facing south and southeast with an elevation of around 1400m, the Iron Curtain is just high enough that Central Otago’s weather system ensures sub-zero temperatures both day and night when the sky is clear. Then, when the ground water stored in the mountains oozes out of fault lines in the rock it snap freezes, building up over time into different ice features.

Ordinarily we would get some climbing in on day one but our late arrival only left time to snowshoe up towards the face and back, putting in a boot track. That way, unless it snowed all night, the walk in the morning would be quicker.

It snowed all night, but we were still up early and keen to be off. We trudged up to the Curtain, about a half-hour walk, peeling off layers as we went. Surprisingly, not all of the routes were in good condition; despite the miserable weather, some earlier warm spells and thawing events had turned much of the easy-angled terrain slushy or exposed it to unstable overhanging snow and icicles. Paul was hopeful though that the predicted cold front would open up more options in the next few days.

Method acting

It was when we sat down to attach our crampons at the foot of the first exercise that the group’s shortcomings became apparent: I got my left and right mixed up and Josh put his on back to front. It was clearly time for some lessons in technique. “Ice climbing is a bit like walking up a flight of stairs,” demonstrated Paul, “Your feet are really important when it comes to load bearing but your ice axes are more like a banister – they provide you with balance. You don’t drag yourself upstairs by the banister, do you? Well, unless you’re really drunk and your legs are giving way.” Clearly, he knew his audience.
Placing the axes (or tools) was an art and Paul taught us the key principles straight away – aim for the divots in the ice rather than the bulges, which are far more likely to fracture when struck. Sometimes there would be natural ice features behind which we could hook our tools so we didn’t have to swing them aggressively all the time. Our feet were equally crucial – we were to watch carefully as we placed them and keep our soles horizontal to prevent the front points of our crampons slipping out. 

These four points formed a moving triangle position: one axe defined the apex while the widely-spaced feet formed the base, then the second axe was placed above the first, slightly offset, and the feet brought up again to reform the triangle. “It’s easy to put too much focus into what you’re doing with your axe and not enough into your feet,” explained Paul. This basic sequence of moves was the secret to good ice climbing.

A random cascade of tumbling icicles provides a stunning backdrop to the snowshoe trip out of the valley.

Getting vertical 

Our first attempt, up some snow-dusted ice slabs overlying moderately steep rock, looked thoroughly scary but Paul only graded it a WI2. [Water Ice grades run from WI1 to WI7, roughly from ‘Ho-hum’ to ‘F**k!’] Josh and I belayed each other off a top rope, displaying technique that may politely be termed ‘crude’. In fact I was hacking like a 60-a-day smoker and Josh was gouging like a disgruntled taxi driver, but we both got to the top. “Wow, did I just climb this?” I thought, surveying the route as I was lowered back down. I was genuinely impressed with myself.

In an effort to curb our enthusiasm and teach us better footwork, Paul made us climb the same route again, this time using only one axe. Unsurprisingly this was much more
difficult and we often found our feet slipping, crampons scraping down the ice. “Kick in!” roared Paul helpfully from below, “Heel down!” We practised until our legs turned to jelly and our arms ached, although sadly this didn’t take long. Kate was let down by basic arm strength but she struggled gamely on, and Josh learned that gaining a toehold is significantly harder when one’s crampons have fallen off. This embarrassment signalled the end of a good day.

The confidence game

Day 3 started badly: due to high winds and snow flurries we were forced to sit frustratingly in the kitchen tent until about noon, playing Scrabble. When we eventually got out Kate opted to be Base Camp Manager; she hadn’t much enjoyed the climbing the previous day and needed time to recover. She was also worried that her nervousness on the ice would hold Josh and I back, and while we had no desire for her to miss out we knew that we would advance quicker without her. 

“My goal is for a beginner to come away feeling like they understand how to be a competent second,” Paul later explained. “That means following a lead climber, managing their personal safety plus that of the leader, attaching themselves to an anchor and dismantling anchor stations, and managing their ice axes and crampons in a way that enables them to climb from grade WI1 to WI3.” However, the driving snow and avalanche hazards had buried more of the normal teaching venues and Paul was forced to lead us to a site where the learning curve (and the ice) would be steeper than usual. We headed beneath an overhang and halted at a gorgeous, freestanding column of water ice, beautifully decorated with mushrooms, jellyfish, rivulets and fangs. This latter icicle formation is also called a pencil but “Check it out, Bru! I just climbed this gnarly pencil!” doesn’t have quite the same ring. 

We practised a few swings (from the elbow, ending with a flick of the wrist) and crampon placements and, once we’d both hit the metaphorical ceiling, Paul decided we were ready for some serious action – a 30m, grade WI4 route right up the outside of the pillar and up the face above it. Paul went first to install a top rope, clearly enjoying himself. “Oh, yes!” he said, sounding more like he was receiving a massage than a face full of ice splinters, “Oh, what a lovely placement.” Josh went next and made good headway until an over-ambitious move left him bouncing at the end of the rope, both his axes still buried in the face in a perfect offset position. 

Then it was my turn; the Thunderdome was calling. I hefted my axes and stepped into the breach just as one of the day’s many snowstorms blew up the valley. Perfect – I needed an extra element to really push my performance. Ignoring the wind, I concentrated on my tool placements, valiantly ascending metre by metre in the teeth of the blizzard. “I’m doing it,” I was thinking, “I’m bloody doing it!” And I was – I hooked, I swung, I ‘kicked in’ and before I knew it I was at the top bolt, grinning widely.

We climbed for as long as we could, and it’s lucky that we did because it was to be our last chance – the next day was a complete write-off. High winds prevented us from getting out at all and instead we played more Scrabble, while Paul tried to cheer us up by lamenting that this was the worst weather of any course he’d ever run. 

At least the walk out on the final day – usually a five-hour snowshoe down the valley to Lake Wakatipu – promised to be fun. And it was, up to the point where Kate fell into the creek and it turned into an epic adventure. I may not have got quite as much climbing in as I’d hoped but this had still been a valuable learning experience. I’d learned that any two letters could be claimed to be a word in Scrabble, how to balance on a toilet bucket in a snowstorm and, most importantly of all, never to trust New Zealand’s weather.

More info: Adventure Consultants offer five-day ice climbing courses from July to mid-August, based out of Wye Creek.

The post Ice Climbing: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Australian Geographic.

In fact from the early 1950s through to the 1970s, the Waikiki Beach Boys used outrigger paddles on their long boards when they were employed to photograph tourists having a crack at surfing.

The modern interpretation of SUP, however, is said to have first appeared in Hawaii around 2000, when there was an extended period of flat swells, and some dedicated surfers thought it’d be a good idea to get out there on their boards with a paddle to keep fit.

Meanwhile, in Australia, it’s claimed that SUP was up and running as early as 2003, although it didn’t hit the mainstream until the ABC aired a SUP segment on The 7.30 Report in May 2007 featuring surfers Tom Carroll and Richie Lovett, among others. From that point on, SUP was on its stellar growth trajectory, with stand up paddle shops popping up all over the country. 

“It’s the fastest growing watersport in the world,” says Nick King from Sunny King Paddleboards. “It’s been like that for a few years, because all the other ones have grown, but last summer in America it rated as the most popular land and sea recreational activity, which is including mountain biking and trekking…” 

Nick, who has shaping surfboards for many years, caught the SUP bug about eight years ago and, along with his wife who’s a personal trainer, started Sunny King Paddleboards about six-and-a-half years ago. Nick also competes in ironman events, so he can appreciate the many health benefits offered by SUP, as well as the fun aspect of the sport.

Duke Kahanamoku surfing his paddle board at Waikiki Beach. 

Why is SUP so popular?

There are a number of reasons that make SUP popular. “It’s very easy for anyone to do it, there’s no specific demographic of person that does it, so that’s why it’s attractive to so many different people,” Nick King says. 

As well as being easy, and a hell of a lot of fun, proponents of stand up paddle reckon it’s the best way to get a thorough, low-impact, cardiovascular workout while having a great time in the water. The combination of balancing and paddling means that you’ll use just about every part of your body, yet the design of the board ensures it’s relatively easy to balance, so it’s suitable for both experienced surfers and those who’ve never even tried surfing before. It’s also suitable for kids, so SUP is a great way to spend a fun day on the water with your family. 

“From the cross training side of things, we can [burn] 1200 calories in an hour,” claims Nick King. “And from the paddling side of things, it’s a non-weight-bearing sport, so it’s good for the bigger paddlers and bigger people, because like bike riding and swimming, it’s also easy on your knees and your joints.

“It’s a workout on water. It’s a toes to nose workout; it’s engaging all different muscles that you’re not used to using, but a lot of people are just using it for relaxation and getting out for a bit of a cruise.” 

The versatility of SUP also makes it popular. “We do inflatable boards for guys with boats, and we sell them to the navy, and there are all sorts of different guys that are using inflatable boards that you can put into a backpack, and they’re going up to Cradle Mountain, and doing treks and going paddle boarding in places that have never been seen before,” enthuses Nick.

Getting started 

Not all stand up paddle takes place in the surf; in fact it’s a very small part of the sport which has split into several different disciplines including, flat-water, touring and competition. There’s even stand up paddle yoga! There’s a range of different stand up paddleboards specifically designed for the sport’s different disciplines, as well as the user’s skill level and experience.

If you’re just starting out it’s a good idea to hire a board and take a lesson or two before you spend up big buying your own equipment. Not only will this be the fastest way to master SUP, it will also ensure you don’t end up with a board that’s too difficult to handle when you’re just starting out, or one that you’ll quickly outgrow as you become more experienced and capable. 

The other advantage of taking lessons is that you can avoid picking up any bad habits that can adversely affect your technique. Most SUP schools will offer a range of courses ranging from beginners through to advanced. As well as technique, they’ll also teach you how to stay safe on the water, and advise what sort of board will best suit your needs, depending on how you intend to use it. 

There are SUP schools all over the country, so unless you live away from the coast, or in a remote area, you shouldn’t have any trouble finding one. When choosing a school, however, try to speak to people who’ve done a course with them to get some feedback; as with anything, some SUP schools are better than others.

Credit: Shutterstock

The right board

There are a number of factors that should be taken into account when choosing a board. The first is to find one that suits your body size and weight. For starters, the heavier you are the more floatation you will require so to some degree that will dictate the design of board. But the type of paddling you intend to do will have as big a bearing on board selection as the size and shape of your body. 

For example, an all-rounder board can be used either on flat water or in the surf, and it will offer a relatively wide platform for good stability in different conditions. For long-distance paddling or exploring, however, it won’t move through the water as easily as a longer, narrower board.

“The main size for people to look at, the biggest seller that we make, is a 10ft 6 board that’s 29 or 30 inches wide, so it’s nice and stable,” says Nick. “It’s still going to hold over 100kg, but for people to get into [the sport], it’s initially nice and stable.” 

Weight is also a big factor in choosing the right board. A 10ft 6 board is under 10kg, so it’s going to be easy to throw it up on to the roof of your car, but a bigger board, that’s say 14ft and 12 or 13kg, is not going to be as manageable. 

Selecting the right paddle is also extremely important. “The paddle height should be about nine inches above your head height,” says Nick. “About the time the paddle blade is in the water your top hand is around your forehead, so you’ve got quite straight arms, you’re using your major muscle groups, you’re not actually using your arms too much, and it’s all forward of your feet, so you’re engaging all through your obliques and your stomach muscles, and all through your core, and your quads and also your legs, so it’s a good workout.”

Board construction 

There are two basic board designs: round-nose boards are usually between 9ft 6 and 11ft 6, and are designed as all-rounders suitable for use on flat water and in the surf; and pointy-nose boards are usually around 12ft 6 to 14ft, and are designed more for flat water paddling and racing. 

“Construction wise, we use an EPS core which is expandable polystyrene, which nice and buoyant like a cork,” says Nick. “We still have a wood stringer through the board so it’s nice and stiff and we put carbon reinforcement through the rails, where the impact zones are, where your paddle’s going to be, and your nose and your tail, and also where your foot stance is going to be…” 

Some manufacturers make soft boards and also use materials such as plastics instead of fibreglass. 

For trekking, inflatable boards are surprisingly robust, and a similar size to traditional paddleboards. “The inflatable ones, for guys with boats, or trekking and travelling and stuff, we’ve got them as a 10ft 6 or a 12ft 6 board,” says Nick. “They’ve got drop-stitching in them so they’re nice and stiff, and they’ve got a three-piece paddle and a foot pump, and a backpack as well, so they can take them anywhere.” Nick claims inflatables can be pumped up in as little as two-and-a-half minutes.

Do it 

It’s easy to do, it gives you a great workout and it’s a lot of fun. Oh, and it can also complement other outdoor activities. If you haven’t tried stand up paddle before, perhaps now is the time to have a crack at it.

The post Skills: Stand up paddling appeared first on Australian Geographic.

A camping trip is also a fantastic bonding opportunity for parent and children. Here are some tips from the Australian Geographic Adventure team (well, those with children, anyway) to help make camping a rewarding experience that kids will enjoy.

Where should you camp with the kids?

It’s a great idea to become familiar with local camping options so going bush can be enjoyed regularly and easily – you don’t need to drive for hours to a faraway location for children to enjoy the camping experience. The campsite could be at your local caravan/camping park, or an hour away at the most. Being close to home means you can make an easy retreat home if circumstances change, which is handy with really young kids.

The national parks website for your state is an excellent guide to many of the best spots around. Many national parks provide discovery programs (or similar) for children, usually operated by rangers during holiday periods.

What gear do you need for camping with the kids?

Modern camping gear has really taken the ‘feral’ out of family camping. The basics you’ll need for family comfort on a short camping trip are: a family tent, a tarp with poles and guide ropes, a couple of airbeds or foam bases, an esky or portable fridge/freezer, a gas cooker and lighting. Modern camping equipment is excellent, user-friendly and very accessible. For a relatively small initial investment you have a holiday option that’s available at short notice whenever you need.

Kids love to be empowered, and nothing is more empowering and motivating than heading out with your very own outdoor gear. An array of fantastic kids’ camping gear is available. Keep it simple; no flashy gadgets are needed – a colourful water bottle, backpack or a child-sized sleeping bag. But take it from me: the absolute winner is their own head torch.

Getting active with kids in tow

During your camping experience, take time to explore the natural surrounds. Pack a lunch and take a bushwalk, grab a canoe for a paddle or go beachcombing and build sand castles.

Preparation is key to a safe and enjoyable experience. Ensure you take a well-stocked first-aid kit and know the basics on how to use it. Take a map, even on marked trails; national parks websites and parks offices can provide these.

Pack all the regular outdoor essentials like sunscreen, hats, water and take enough food to cover the entire trip plus extra snacks or even an extra meal to cover unforeseen circumstances. Discomfort and hunger will quickly turn a great walk into a chore. Kids will burn more energy in the outdoors, so take more food than you would normally consider enough. Prepare familiar meals and snacks and have them easily accessible. Halfway down a bush track is not the place to try unfamiliar food. Keep your little ones hydrated, equip them with their own water bottle, and carry extra water yourself to top theirs up.

Camping with the kids should be fun

Keep in mind that a day in the outdoors will exhaust even the most active junior explorer. Expect bedtimes to be a little earlier than at home. It may be a good idea to bring dinner times forward and start your bedtime routine an hour or so earlier.

Fun, fun, fun. This should be your camping mantra. Learning will come, health benefits will come, as long as the experience is FUN.

Give your kids a disposable camera and let them take shots of whatever they feel like. It is great to get the images back and see what they have captured. Children usually take shots of smaller detail, often ignoring views while catching a bug or a flower or a rock instead.

Insect catching is another entertainer with an opportunity for the kids to learn. Make yourself aware of the local creepy crawlies to ensure no-one collects anything that may surprise. Build respect for all creatures by releasing them after a good look. Pick up a basic field guide. Kids love searching out and identifying birds or plants that they have spotted.

The most adaptable and versatile outdoor play option is your own creativity and imagination. Delving into their imaginary world and engaging with your children is truly rewarding for parent and child. Collect sticks and leaves to use later during a camp craft session. Remember to respect conservation-area guidelines for the removal of flora.

Create treasure hunts, search for fairy homes, and seek opportunities for storytelling and subtle lessons about animals and habitats. You are limited only by your imagination. Encourage the young ones to express themselves, to sing songs, tell jokes and laugh lots.
Don’t forget to let your kids explore and create their own play; so much of what they do these days is organised and structured. A nice grassy campsite or long empty beach can provide the perfect space for simply roaming about. Some of my favourite times are the spontaneous moments of unsupervised play, watching your little person engrossed in self-talk or just wandering about with a stick in hand without a care in the world – these are moments to treasure.

Remember to keep camping with the kids simple

For a very tentative child your first tent experience could be your very own backyard – that way if the sounds of the night get too much you can beat a hasty retreat indoors. You don’t need to climb a mountain to instill a love of the natural world and foster a lifetime of wonder.

RELATED STORIES:

• Trekking with kids
• Top 8 wilderness camping spots
• Camping: the classic Australian experience

The post How to camp with the kids appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Yep, it sounds pretty close to perfect for water-based explorers. Now it’s just a matter of picking and choosing which one to paddle first.

Hawkesbury/Nepean River System Canoe & Kayak Trail

These paddles are close to Sydney and offer a choice of three separate trails – the Nepean, Colo and Hawkesbury rivers (50km, 30km and 83.5km respectively). You should aside time to explore all three, as each offers a unique experience and, with your Land and Property Management Authority maps in hand, it is just a matter of planning which river to paddle first.

Access to the Hawkesbury is the most straightforward – there are myriad put-in points accessed through public land – and this huge river is a great introduction to paddling a canoe trail, either as a series of one-day adventures or as a multiday expedition; accommodation options are plenty here – caravan/camping grounds, water ski resorts and B&Bs are scattered along the river’s banks – as is a plethora of wildlife.

One thing you do need to be aware of while floating along checking out the scenery on the Hawkesbury is its popularity with powerboats and water-skiers.Obey the rules of the water and paddle on the right-hand side of the river and you should be fine; most boaters are well aware of the Hawkesbury’s popularity with kayakers and canoeists and will give you a wide berth. Answer them with a wave of thanks and everyone’s happy.

The Hawkesbury section of this network travels from Yarramundi to Wiseman’s Ferry, over a distance of 83.5km, and can be broken down into six day-sections (Yarramundi-North Richmond; North Richmond-Windsor; Windsor-Ebenezer; Ebenezer-Cumberland Reach; Cumberland Reach-Lower Portland; and Lower Portland-Wisemans Ferry) or you could turn it into a multiday touring affair, camping at caravan parks or, as part of the Windsor-Ebenezer section, in Cattai National Park for a wilder experience.

The Hawkesbury is rated for beginner paddlers but it is still essential to check tides (best to paddle with it if possible) and winds before setting out; there’s nothing more miserable than paddling against the tide or the wind; it can make what sounds like an awesome trip pretty awful.

For a family-based paddle adventure, the Nepean River section is ideal. At around 25km one-way, this makes for a great adventure, starting from an easy put-in point at either Tench Reserve at Penrith, on the river’s eastern side, or from the Nepean Rowing Club (accessed by turning right before the Nepean Bridge), also on the eastern bank but a bit further up the river. This route can be paddled in either direction, as the water here is non-tidal, but wind direction will be a factor in which direction you paddle (and whether you decide to only paddle one way or opt for the return journey).

The Nepean River is also busy with (obviously) other paddlers, rowers and also powerboats/water skiers, so remember to be aware of this. The highlights for braving this busy waterway are a glimpse of the huge wall of Warragamba Dam, as well as the chance to introduce your children/family to the delights of paddling on calm water. Once you’ve all gained confidence on the Nepean, the more remote Colo River beckons.

The lower Colo River offers an escape from the busier Nepean and also the chance to experience an easy-ish overnight water journey. This part of the Colo is tidal so your best option for exploring this area is to follow the tide and head downstream, starting from the Upper Colo Recreation Reserve. The finish, at Lower Portland’s Skeleton Rocks Reserve, is 30km downriver, meaning a two-day journey with a camp at Colo at the 16km mark. Colo River Holiday Park offers campsites and barbecue areas.

The second section – from Colo to Lower Portland – takes you through some spectacular narrow gorges and thick bushland, with plenty of sandy beaches on which to pull up for a rest or lunch. The only caveat with paddling the Colo River is to make sure you check the water level carefully; if it is too high you will have to portage around the low-height Upper Colo Bridge. If it’s too low, you’ll have to drag your canoe over some short sections.

Tumut River Canoe and Kayak Trail

For the more adventurous paddlers, the 95km Tumut River Canoe Trail is a must-do. With an abundance of bush campsites along the river’s banks, plus the slight challenge of paddling a river classified as a Grade 1 (some small rapids) the Tumut makes a fantastic multiday adventure for the more experienced paddler.

The Tumut River is best run during summer, when the Snowy Mountain Hydro Electric Scheme releases water after the snowmelt. The trail starts at the bottom of the Blowering Dam wall and finishes where it joins the Murrumbidgee River near Gundagai.

The landscape you paddle through over the recommended four to five days comprises a mix of crown and pastoral lands. The river also allows for easy access to put-in points and for any support vehicles, with the Land and Property Management Authority maps available online showing vehicle routes to each section’s finish point and marking potential overnight campsites at reserves/camp/caravan parks.

For a day trip – especially if it is family-based – a great option is to paddle the 16km/three-hour Jones Bridge Reserve-Junction Park Lions Reserve section. This follows the river as it ambles around the town of Tumut, making meals, accommodation and car shuttling from start to finish nice and easy, while still offering the canoeing experience for the young’uns without having to commit to an overnight trip.

Of course, if you’re really keen – and after having finished the full Tumut River trail – you can just keep paddling, down the mighty Murrumbidgee…

Murrumbidgee River Canoe and Kayak Trail

This canoe trail is huge – an epic 230km – and takes you from the heights of Nanangroe Reserve (around 34km west of Yass) just down from the Snowy Mountain Scheme’s Burrinjuck Dam, to the fertile farmlands surrounding Wagga Wagga. As with the Tumut River, the best times to paddle the Murrumbidgee canoe trail are from September through to March. There are seven sections of this canoe trail, so you can either break them up into day/overnight paddles, or go for the full monty of a week or more on the river, which would be our pick.

Along this trail you will find myriad riverside reserves for camping and canoe/kayak put-in, as well as some fantastic scenery. The trail passes through some true western NSW/outback landscapes and you’ll move between willow and gum shadowed sections to barren and exposed parts of the river, with plenty of wildlife to see.

This trail is not for the faint-hearted, however; sections can take between five-and-a-half hours and eight hours of paddling each day, and even longer as your efforts and speed will be governed by the speed of the river’s flow. Still, if you’re committed to the full trail and are well prepared, you won’t be disappointed as you retrace the route taken by those brilliant paddle steamers of yesteryear. And best of all – at trail’s end – is Wagga Wagga, one of NSW’s most famous and hospitable inland cities.

Macquarie River Canoe and Kayak Trail

Named after Lachlan Macquarie, the last governor of the colony of New South Wales, this river forms (along with the Murray, Murrumbidgee and Barwon-Darling rivers) part of the Murray-Darling basin. The river takes paddlers through a part of NSW that offers everything from huge river red gums lining its banks, through to a wide variety of native birds and animals. Starting in the central-western NSW town of Wellington, the Macquarie trail snakes 150km northwest through the regional centre of Dubbo before finishing in Narromine.

This trail (best travelled during summer after the annual release of water from Burrendong Dam) starts at Wellington’s Oxley Park Reserve and, on average, will take fit paddlers around five to six hours per day to complete. Along the way there are plenty of Crown Land reserves for camping – and where there are no reserves, nearby towns offer excellent accommodation and dining options.

A stand-out section of this trail is Bril Bral Reserve-Butlers Falls Reserve, on day three, which has plenty of sandy beaches on which to camp or stop for lunch, plus it is fast-flowing, making for an exciting day in the boat. If you can, it’s well worth doing the full trail. The experiences along the way – ranging from remote bush camping to dossing down in the hospitable country towns along the river – make this a hidden gem of western NSW.

• Ten Best Kayaking Spots in Australia
• Paddling Bucket List
• Canoe Paddling Guide

The post Paddling NSW’s premier trails appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The watercraft-carrying accessory market is huge, with a number of excellent systems from reputable brands, such as Thule, Rhino Rack and Yakima.

Most modern vehicles come standard with roof rails, which run along the length of each side of the roof, so most paddlers will only need to buy aftermarket roof bars to attach horizontally to these rails. These bars are manufactured in a number of different tube profiles, from square to oval.

The more important thing to look for is the attachment system; how secure it is, and how easy it is to attach the bars to your vehicle’s roof rails.

In terms of the carry system, you can opt for simple padded cradles, or you can go all out and fit something like Thule’s awesome 897XT Hullavator. Things to consider when buying cradles/carry systems are the width of your craft, whether you’re carrying one or two (some cradle systems position the watercraft on an angle to minimise the amount of roof space used) up top, and any provision for paddle storage. (Most manufacturers offer paddle-carrying systems.)

When securing your craft to the carry system, the best method is via ratchet straps; again, most manufacturers will supply the necessary number with the system, or they can be purchased separately.

Leave occy straps where they belong – in the 1970s.

It is one of the most dangerous load-carrying items around; if one comes loose, the force of the rebound – and the hook itself, can easily take out an eye. Plus, the inherent stretch in the strap means your craft can still “move around” in windy conditions. Most carry systems are manufactured of aluminium and plastic/rubber and – depending on their complexity – require only minimal maintenance.

Keep an eye on the high-wear sections (pads and any hinges) as these will cop the most abuse. Ensure any moving parts are lubricated regularly and you’ll have a reliable watercraft load-lugging system that will last for ages.

Of course, once your craft is off the vehicle, it’s not always a case of simply plopping it in the water. Your destination might still be a few hundred metres away, meaning you still have to lug your craft – and all your gear – to the put-in point.

If you have a heavy canoe plus gear, this can be a herculean task so it is well worth investing in a canoe/kayak cart; Solution Gear offers these in three sizes.

These carts are foldable and include features such as anodised aluminium frames and pneumatic tyres, which make the whole ordeal of dragging a heavy canoe/kayak a thing of the past. When folded down, they are also quite easy to strap to your craft.

Additional safety equipment

Other essential safety items include: a whistle (for alerting nearby watercraft in low visibility conditions), a safety line (or two; you may need to tow an injured paddler and their craft), a marine radio (or equivalent; a mobile phone is not reliable in remote areas, but take one anyway – you may get reception where you least expect it); an EPIRB (must be registered with the Australian Maritime Safety Authority); a compass and map; a GPS (with spare batteries); a torch (of utmost importance for early morning/night/evening paddling); bailing equipment (a small bucket or bilge pump); first-aid knowledge; spare paddle(s); and a high-visibility flag (especially if you’re paddling in busy waterways).

This seems like an extensive list but most of these items are quite compact, making them easily to store in your craft. Make sure they are all close to hand – you don’t want to be wasting time looking for this gear in an emergency.

The post Carrying systems for watercraft appeared first on Australian Geographic.

A canoe is your ticket to inland waterway exploration, of which Australia has a surprising abundance. This watercraft has been around for tens of thousands of years; it’s been the primary waterborne transport mode for many of the world’s indigenous populations (Australian Aboriginals used bark to construct theirs; the Inuit and Canadian Aboriginals used animal skins stretched over a timber skeleton frame).

Although little has changed in its fundamental design (open topped, propelled via a single-bladed paddle) and intended function, stepping inside a canoe retailer’s doors can still be a daunting task – today, not all canoes are created equal.

The first question any canoe buyer has to ask is:

“What will be the primary use of this canoe?” There are a number of designs on the market, with everything from the plastic all-rounder/recreational model (favoured by canoe-hire companies), suited to flat/slow-flowing water, fishing-specific models (the silence of a canoe in the water makes it the perfect mobile fishing platform), through to the specialised whitewater jobbies, designed to get you through rough, rapid-filled, technical sections of waterways safely.

Oh, and strict traditionalists can still buy a classic wood/canvas canoe.

For those just after a canoe to load themselves, their kids and some gear in for a day – or overnight – trip on slow-running rivers, creeks and lakes, the recreational canoe is the obvious choice.

This variant’s versatility, large load capacity and beginner-friendly design have made it a must-have part of your family camping kit.

Having a canoe for you and/or the kids to paddle around in ups the fun factor immensely when you’re camped near a river or lake. These versatile canoes are designed with ease of paddling and primary stability in mind, thanks to minimal “rocker”.

Rocker is the term used to describe the curve of the canoe’s keel line when the craft is viewed side-on. Minimal (or no) rocker means the canoe tracks very efficiently, and is very stable, but is harder to manoeuvre. Moderate rocker describes a slight curve in the craft’s bottom, offering increased manoeuvrability while retaining efficient tracking capabilities. The curve on a maximum-rocker boat is quite pronounced and reserved for whitewater boats, where manoeuvrability is paramount.

For paddlers looking to cover longer distances, a touring/expedition canoe is the best option. These offer increased manoeuvrability, while still tracking very well, and are also designed to withstand more punishment. The increased rocker of a tourer means there is less primary stability compared to recreational models, but this is offset by improved secondary stability; ideal for when you need to move the canoe around more on the water to negotiate a tight run of rapids, for example. Larger tourers (17-20 feet; watercraft are still gauged in Imperial measure) are the water-going equivalent of modern 4WDs – they can lug a serious amount of gear.

If you’re a serious rapids rat – as in, you spend 90 percent of your time running fast whitewater – then the whitewater canoe is the only choice.

These are specialised watercraft, with maximum rocker and very high levels of manoeuvrability, both of which equal epic fun in fast-flowing rivers.

However, for the majority of Aussie-based river-runners, these specialised craft – although looking seriously awesome and promising maximum adventure – are only worth considering if you are a dedicated whitewater specialist.

There are numerous touring/expedition canoes with a more pronounced whitewater bent to their design that would make a better overall purchase. That said, there’s no reason you can’t have more than one canoe.

Choosing a canoe paddle

Canoe paddle selection runs along similar lines to that of a kayak, in terms of materials used (aluminium, plastic, carbon-fibre and wood are all popular options, with the same caveats in regards to strengths and weaknesses of each material) and blade shapes.

The obvious differentiation between the two, though, is that the canoe paddle is single-bladed in design.

As well, certain parts of the paddle’s design play a more governing factor in user comfort.

A canoe paddle is available in straight and bent shaft. The traditional style is a straight shaft as it makes for the best all-round paddle. A straight-shaft paddle is also more manoeuvrable in technical conditions and delivers more power to each stroke when you need to paddle quickly. For flatwater touring, however, a bent-shaft paddle may be the better option.

As a result of the bent shaft (angles vary between 7 and 14 degrees), the paddle blade itself stays vertical in the water during the “”power” part of a stroke, while still allowing easy entry/exit from the water, which puts less strain on your body, and reducing muscle fatigue.

In other words, a bent-shaft paddle is ideal for longer touring conditions.
The shaft shape is also a factor; some shafts are circular, others are oval – and some paddles have an “oval-indexed” shaft, where the shaft is primarily circular in shape, but with high-use sections (where paddlers will most likely place their hands) ovalised for improved comfort.

As well as the shaft design, pay close attention to the grip; the pear grip fits more naturally into your hand and is less tiring for longer journeys, while the T-grip provides
more control over paddle angle and is more easily held in rougher/bouncier conditions.
There are several ways to ensure the perfect paddle fit.

The best way is to kneel/sit on the shop floor, with your backside around 20cm above the ground (to roughly replicate your body height when seated in a canoe), then grab the paddle you are testing, turn it upside down (make sure the grip is firmly on the ground) and, if it is the correct size, the blade should start from the equivalent height of where your nose is. It sounds a bit haphazard, but it does work.

However, you also need to take into account the width of your canoe (if it is wide, a slightly longer paddle will mean less twisting/leaning over the side to paddle) and its depth.

The post Canoe paddling guide appeared first on Australian Geographic.

“To me the act of tying a knot is an adventure in unlimited space,” Ashley wrote. “If we move a single strand on a plane, interlacing it at will, actual objects of beauty and of utility can result… limited only by the scope of our own imagery and the length of the ropemaker’s coil.”

While Ashley’s encyclopedia of knot tying, which remains a classic to this day, describes more than 3800 knots of varying complexities and uses, you don’t need to be an enthusiast to make use of the practical benefits of knowing a few versatile knots.

“There are still people out there who know hundreds of knots, whose hobby is working with rope and cord, who write books about knots,” says says Glen Nash, Operations Director at the Australian School of Mountaineering (ASM). “But for most practical applications, five or six knots is really all you need.”

Overhand knot and loop

Most people will know this simple and fundamental knot, even if they don’t know it by name. The overhand knot is easy to tie – create a loop and push one end through – but can be difficult to untie after sustaining a heavy load.

According to Nash, the classic overhand knot dropped in popularity for a while, but has come back into fashion for its simplicity – for example, as a means of joining two ropes.

“The good thing about very simple knots is that you can check them visually from a distance or up close. You can see straight away if they’re tied correctly,” Nash says.

When tied using the end of the rope doubled over, the overhand knot can also create a secure loop that can be clipped to a carabiner.

Bowline

This ancient nautical knot is named after a rope used on old square-rigged ships. Forming a secure loop at the end of a rope that won’t slip under load, the bowline has in the past been used in the place of a harness – including, Nash says, by the original mountaineers.

Sailor and 2004 Australian Geographic Young Adventurer of the Year, Chris Bray says the bowline is his favourite knot. “I use the bowline a lot, sometimes in situations where if it failed, I’d be dead or at least in serious danger,” he says. “I trust it to hold me when I climb the mast, to hold up my sail, and to tie my yacht off in a storm.”

Being easy to untie when not under load is a key characteristic of a good knot, Nash points out. However, it can also mean such knots have the potential to shake loose when the rope is slack. To avoid this happening with a bowline, “always leave a descent tail on it,” says Bray.

“I didn’t once, tying the sheet ropes on deck during a violent storm off the NSW coast back in 2006, and it quickly pulled free,” he says. “You’ve no idea the beating that flailing sail dealt me while I clung, terrified, to the mast!”

Figure eight and rethreaded figure eight

Tie a figure-eight knot by passing the end of a rope over itself to form a loop, then continuing under and around the rope, and back through the loop – the result should resemble a figure eight, hence the name.

The ‘rethreaded figure-eight’ adds further versatility, and is a popular way for climbers to tie into their climbing ropes, Nash says. “Tie a figure-eight in the end of the rope, then pass it through a climbing harness, and follow it back through to complete the knot,” he explains.

Clove Hitch

This small but versatile knot consists of two reverse loops that form a self-tightening hitch, which can be clipped into a carabiner or used to secure a length of rope to a tree or a post. “Loop this simple, self-tightening knot around a bar or rail and you can pull on either end of the rope and she’ll stay,” explains Bray.

“Climbers will often use the clove hitch to link anchors together, so you can create a belay station,” adds Nash. “That’s just one of its uses.”

The Italian/Munter Hitch

“The Italian hitch is a pretty special knot,” says Nash. Also known as the Munter hitch, it works by using friction to control the rate of descent when threaded through a locking carabiner. It can be used as a belay system, for abseiling down a cliff face, or even lowering someone else down a cliff face (with a sling), in a rescue or emergency situation, for example.

While other equipment exists for these purposes, the right gear isn’t always at hand at the right time – which is when knowing a variety of knots comes in handy. “You can have just one piece of rope and lots of different knots for a multitude of applications,” says Nash. “It’s about being lightweight and compact, too.”

Prusik Hitch

Named after its inventor, Austrian Mountaineer Karl Prusik (1896-1961), Prusik hitches consist of a doubled length of rope – ends joined to form a loop using another knot, such as a double fisherman’s – wrapped around the climbing rope to form a barrel that can be slid up or down the rope. When loaded, Prusik hitches use friction to ‘grab’ the rope and lock in place, enabling a climber to ascend or descend a fixed rope, or used as part of a hauling system.

“The French Prusik pretty much is the king of all the Prusik knots,” says Nash of this derivative of the original Prusik hitch. The main distinguishing feature of the French Prusik is its capacity to be manipulated or moved under load if necessary.

Knot images: Shtterstock

The post Top 6 knots you need to know appeared first on Australian Geographic.

We’ve all seen them: those crazy paddlers launching themselves off high waterfalls in what seem like incredibly small watercraft, These craft – river/whitewater kayaks – occupy the “fun” side of river paddling. Tough and highly manoeuvrable, the river kayak – in its various forms – is quite versatile.

A river kayak can be used for anything from a cruisey float along a river, through to an adrenalin-infused run of Grade VI rapids (the International Scale of River Difficulty is used to rate the safety level of sections of water. It tops out at VI for “runnable” sections of water in a whitewater kayak.).

As with canoes, the types of river kayak can be broken into sub-categories, such as river-running/touring, and creeking and playboating.

The type of paddling you do in your kayak will govern the model type you select. Due to the often-rugged conditions river kayaks are used in, durability of construction is paramount. Plastic (polyethylene) is the most popular material used by manufacturers, due to its toughness and flexibility, but you will also find fibreglass river kayaks, which tend to be longer in length and aimed more at general river running.

The attraction of fibreglass is its ease of repair if you do ding/hole your craft. Punch a hole in your plastic playboat and it’s pretty much finished.

A river running kayak is the equivalent of a touring canoe or sea kayak: it is designed as an all-rounder and will be longer than a whitewater variant, with more stability and a higher storage capacity to allow for longer, multi-day journeys.

A sub-variant of the general river-runner is the creek boat, which has a more rounded bow and stern (front and rear) and a higher volume for additional floatation (which aids safety; a larger displacement means the craft will “pop up” more quickly if pinned or submerged).

The aptly named playboat is designed for mucking around in small section of rapids. These kayaks are the shortest and are designed to “bounce” off the rapids’ waves and surf in the trough of the wave.

These – like the whitewater canoe – are highly specialised craft, suited to a highly specialised, and experienced, paddler.

Ocean Ski

For a fast blast along the coast, an ocean ski is hard to beat. Designed for one thing – to allow paddlers to cross sections of coastal/open ocean as fast as possible – the ocean ski looks like the bastard child of a sit-on-top sea kayak and a surf ski, but is ultra-effective.

To maximise speed, an ocean ski is long and narrow; beginners will get used to falling out as they endeavour to master the balance and develop the core strength needed to ensure they stay upright. Ocean ski manufacturers have recognised the value of making the sport more accessible and new models, featuring a wider cockpit, are now available.

Like all watercraft, construction materials vary; fibreglass, carbon and Kevlar are all used, with the exotic materials commanding higher prices.

In recent years, ocean skis have also morphed into touring watercraft – some have been used to cross Bass Strait.

If designers could retain the ocean ski’s speed, combined with a modicum of the sea kayak’s load-lugging capability, then you would have the perfect ocean-touring craft. Fingers crossed…

The post Guide to river kayaking appeared first on Australian Geographic.

A Personal Flotation Device (PFD) should be the first thing you buy – and it’s crucially important to ensure that the PFD you buy complies with the Australian Standard 4758 (AS4758).

This standard covers four safety ‘levels’ for PFDs and was introduced in 2010 to bring Australian marine safety standards into line with international regulations. Before 2010, the PFD rating system was broken into three ‘types’.

So, even if your PFD is manufactured before 2010, as long as its type grade correlates with one of AS4758’s levels, it is still safe to use.

These ratings will be clearly marked on the PFD’s tags, so check carefully before purchase.

For open ocean paddlers, a Level 150 or Level 100 PFD is the recommended device (although it is also the bulkiest); for coastal cruising and inland waterways, you can use PFDs rates from Level 150 to Level 50, and also opt for a Level 50 Special Purpose PFD – this will have been designed for one specific marine activity, such as sea kayaking.

(For an extensive read on all things PFD ratings, see the Australian Canoeing website, at canoe.org.au)

• Beginner’s guide to sea kayaking
• Best kayak day trips in Australia
• Top 5 kayak spots in north Queensland

PFD fit is essential

Correct sizing (and fit) is essential with a PFD. Sizing is governed by chest size for adults (children go by weight) and most brands will offer female-specific models as well, so there’s a PFD for everyone out there.

In terms of fit, the PFD should be snug on the wearer’s body without impeding their natural paddle stroke or movement in the craft – and it shouldn’t ride up the torso. Look for high levels of adjustability; the more straps and buckles the PFD has, the easier it is to adjust to your body shape.

And remember: there’s no universal sizing – most brands will size their PFDs slightly differently. Make sure you try as many on as you can before making that final purchase.

A PFD should last you years if properly cared for. A regular check-over – inspect buckles, webbing and straps frequently – should be combined with a dunking in fresh water – and then a thorough drying – after every paddle.

By keeping the PFD in top operating condition, you’re saving money on having to buy a replacement and ensuring your major safety device won’t fail you when it is needed most.

PFD ratings explained

AS4758 is the Australian standard regulation, in place since 2010. Previous to this standard coming in, PFDs were rated by ‘type’. This table correlates the two ratings systems.

Type ratings

Type 1: 
Designed to keep the wearer in a ‘face-up’ floating position. Available in two variants: fixed buoyancy and manually inflated.

Type 2:
Less buoyant than Type 1 (may not rotate wearer to face-up floating position). Used mainly for kayaking, canoeing and other personal watercraft.

Type 3:
Similar buoyancy to Type 2 and manufactured in wider range of colours. It is also available as an in-built feature on wet suits.

Levels |as4578

Level 150:
Similar to inflatable PFD Type 1. Suitable for offshore use.

Level 100:
Similar to PFD Type 1. Minimum requirement for offshore use.

Level 50:
Similar to PFD Type 2

Level 50s
(Special Purpose); replaces PFD Type 3

The post Choosing the right personal flotation device appeared first on Australian Geographic.

I have always been interested in photography, captivated ever since my grandfather let me take a (somewhat out of focus) shot with his Canon AE-1. I bought my first SLR in high school and upgraded to a digital SLR in the last years of my university degree. As I became busier, however, I found the auto mode on my camera and I were becoming very close friends. It just became easier to turn the dial to the little green square and shoot away.

I envied those who could take and create beautiful images, and being on the picture desk did nothing to suppress my jealousy of how seamless some photographers made it look.

So, when a recent upgrade of my camera body forced me to rethink my skill set, I did the only thing I could. I attempted to retrain my automatic-addicted brain and go back to basics… with the help of one of Australia’s photographic masters, Steve Parish.

The right camera

As with all adventure gear, equipping yourself with the right equipment is essential, but finding a camera to suit your specific needs and budget can be a challenge.

How many megapixels do you need? Do you need a full frame or crop sensor? How many points of focus are necessary? If you don’t know the answers to these questions you’re going to have to do some research; chat to the guy in your local camera store, annoy friends with endless questions or hunt around on the internet for information about camera bodies and lenses.

If you find a camera you think fits the bill, but you’re not 100 per cent certain, hire before you buy. Getting a feel for a camera before you fork out the cash to buy it is a great option.

Once you’ve bought a camera, read the manual, experiment with different settings and test your lenses. Find your lens’ sweet spot; the stop where everything is at its sharpest.

Taking care of your gear

Looking after your gear will ensure that when it’s needed, it works. Finding dust marks or fingerprints all over your images after a full-day’s shoot is frustrating… and unnecessary. Always carry a cleaning cloth and cleaning spray – a blower brush can also be handy, particularly if you are shooting in dusty or sandy conditions.

A simple plastic shopping bag can be your camera’s saviour should it start to rain. Keep one in your kit. You should also have your camera and lenses professionally cleaned from time to time.

[TIP] Never use the review on your camera as an indication of focus. By all means, look at the image to make sure you have a nice composition, but always leave the reviewing of focus to when you upload to your PC or laptop. The screen, and screen resolution, on your camera are too small to accurately identify focus.

What is the exposure triangle?

Getting a well-exposed image with the desired depth of field relies on the principle of the exposure triangle.

The triangle itself refers to the way in which the different elements of the camera interact and influence one another in order to take a shot. The three elements that create the exposure triangle are the aperture setting , ISO and shutter speed. Various combinations of these three things can be used to achieve the same exposure, and the key is knowing which one of these to adjust, as each setting also influences other image properties. For example, aperture affects depth of field, shutter speed affects motion blur and ISO speed affects image noise.

What is Aperture?

Aperture, referred to as the f-stop value, controls the area over which light can enter your camera and also affects the depth of field of an image. Setting the exposure for an image can be somewhat confusing because the area of the opening increases as the f-stop decreases.

In other words, the smaller the f-stop value, the more light passes through the camera lens and vice versa. The f-stop also influences the depth of field – or area of an image that is in focus. A shallow depth of field, created by a large aperture, enables you to focus on one focal point of a shot, such as a face, while de-emphasising the background and foreground of an image. A large depth of field will make the entire image sharp, such as in landscape photographs.

What is ISO?

ISO refers to how sensitive the digital sensor is to light. It is measured by numbers, the lowest number being least sensitive to light; the highest being most sensitive. Well-lit scenes with good natural light are ideal for low ISO settings. However, in low-light situations, adjusting the ISO to a higher setting enables you to compensate for the larger aperture and slower shutter speed by increasing the camera’s sensitivity to light. This function may be useful in areas where there is no room for a tripod and you want to avoid camera shake from a slow shutter speed, but beware, the higher the ISO, the more digital noise is produced in your image.

What is shutter speed?

Shutter speed is the length of time a camera’s shutter is open when taking a photograph. It is measured in seconds or fractions of a second. When considering which shutter speed to use you should always ask yourself whether anything in your scene is moving. If there is movement in the scene there are two choices to make: you can choose to freeze the movement (so the object looks still) or to create an intentional blur (giving the image a sense of movement). To freeze movement choose a faster shutter speed and to create an image with blur use a slower shutter speed. The speed you choose will depend on how much of your image is moving and how much motion blur you wish to create. Using slow shutter speeds will sometimes require the use of a tripod to avoid introducing camera movement and unintentional blur.

How to get right exposure

Ensuring that all aspects of the triangle interact in the correct manner can be achieved by using the MAPS settings on your camera: manual, aperture priority, program and shutter priority settings. 

Using manual mode

Manual mode, displayed as M on most camera mode dials, allows you to have full control over the elements of the exposure triangle by setting shutter speed, ISO and aperture independently.

Using shutter speed priority

Shutter speed priority allows you to choose the shutter speed you wish to shoot at while the camera chooses the appropriate aperture. The impact of different shutter speeds enables you to control the movement in an image. If you want to freeze the motion in an image by selecting a fast shutter speed (say 1/2000), the camera takes into consideration how much light is available and adjusts the aperture accordingly. To create blur by selecting a slower shutter speed (such as 1/125), the camera will automatically select a smaller aperture.

Letting the camera determine the aperture will also affect the depth of field. A faster shutter speed with a wider aperture will result in a narrow depth of field, while a slower shutter speed with a narrow aperture will result in a greater depth of field.
Like aperture priority, this mode allows the photographer to control one important aspect that affects the style of the picture, while allowing the camera to automatically handle the other settings.

Using program mode

In Program mode you set the ISO and the camera automatically adjusts aperture and shutter settings according to the built-in exposure meter. This mode differs from full automatic as it enables you to manually adjust other influencing elements such as white balance. Program mode, as with all manual modes, also allows you to adjust the exposure compensation value (EV). This setting is needed because the camera can sometimes make incorrect assumptions about the lighting of an image.

Your camera is calibrated to expose images correctly for scenes that have a mix of dark and light areas. This works well in most situations, as images tend to have both brighter areas (such as sky) and darker areas (shadows). However, this can cause problems if your image is very bright (such as in the snow) or very dark (as in deep green forest areas). In very bright scenes, the camera registers the bright area as the midpoint, making the snow appear grey. Similarly, for dark scenes where the camera will choose a dark area as the midpoint, other objects in the image will appear too bright. EV compensation helps to fix this by telling the camera to expose at a higher or lower setting than it thinks is right. For very bright settings (like the snow or beach), set an EV value as a positive number (+1/3, +1 etc). For very dark scenes, choose a negative EV number.

Using aperture priority

Aperture priority, often abbreviated A or Av (for Aperture value) on a mode dial, allows the user to choose a specific aperture value while the camera selects the appropriate shutter speed for proper exposure.

Manually adjusting the aperture lets you control depth of field in your image. In landscape photography, when you require all objects in the foreground, middle distance and background to be in focus, a narrow aperture is necessary and shutter speed is often irrelevant. In portraiture, a wide aperture allows you to make one focal point and blur out a distracting background.

Another common use of aperture priority mode is to determine correct shutter speed. You could select a small aperture when photographing a waterfall, to allow the water to blur through the frame. When shooting a portrait in dim light, you could choose to open the lens to its maximum aperture to allow enough light for good exposure.

[TIP] Use your histogram. This nifty feature included in most DSLR cameras is a variable graph that shows the areas where all of a scene’s brightness levels are found, from the darkest to the brightest. These values are arrayed across the graph from left (darkest) to right (brightest). The vertical axis (the height of points on the graph) shows how much of the image is found at any particular brightness level. Checking the histogram after a shot can inform you whether it will be under- or over-exposed, and you can then adjust shutter speed, aperture or ISO for correct exposure.

Think about your composition

Being able to capture a well exposed and in focus image is of little consequence if the image is not thoughtfully composed. A practiced outline for composition is the ‘rule of thirds’. The basic principle behind the rule of thirds is to imagine dividing an image into thirds (both horizontally and vertically) so that you have nine sectors – most DSLR cameras will have this as an option you can view through the viewfinder. The theory is that if you place points of interest in the intersections, or along the lines, your image will be more balanced.

Composition also encompasses the focal point(s) of your image. The focal point will draw a viewer’s attention and hold it. A focal point can be anything within a frame, but placing it in a prominent area (the rule of thirds can help with this) can enhance its power.

One of the most effective ways to enhance your image, and to create interesting focal points, is to change the angle of your shot. Try getting down level with a lizard, or eye-to-eye with a bird, using the rule of thirds to fill your frame. Looking up, down and around you while setting up a shot will help you find the most appealing aspect to create an interesting and well-composed image.

Taking multiple shots of the same scene is also a useful habit to adopt (especially with such large-capacity memory cards available now that can store plenty of images). Try taking four different styles of each composed image. Shooting one (or more) of a landscape, portrait, tight or wide shot will ensure that, when it comes to reviewing your images, you won’t suffer shooter’s regret – wishing you would have zoomed in or changed the orientation of an image.

Always shoot in RAW

Always shoot in RAW (if you can). RAW is an uncompressed, digital negative of an image. Images in RAW show a higher dynamic range (the amount of tonal range detail from the darkest shadows to the brightest highlights) and are not processed by your camera as they are in JPEG format, meaning that the image is not adjusted and compressed by your camera. The downside? You will need some form of post-production software to edit RAW files.

When reviewing an image on a PC or laptop, always view at 100 per cent. This will allow you to see if the image is in focus or not, and whether the exposure is the same through the lights and shadows of the image.

The post Taking the perfect shot appeared first on Australian Geographic.

“Great!” I replied, pleased to have stumbled across a mutual interest. “How was it?”

“Not great,” he informed me. “We woke up cold, wet and miserable.”

As it turned out, he was an infrequent camper, and had picked up a $25 tent from a chain department store and – unsurprisingly – it hadn’t worked out well. Now, he would forever associate his impromptu overnight camping trip with waterboarding torture by condensation.

Of course, if you’re reading this, you’re less likely to be heading off on your next adventure via a pitstop to KMart. However, such anecdotes can still act as a reminder of the value of putting adequate thought and, often, a bit of hard-earned cash into your gear selection, and a tent in particular is not something to scrimp on.

It is common, after all, to spend upwards of $100 for a single night in a dodgy, Hitchcockian roadside motel, so what about a piece of gear that you expect to protect you from the elements for several days or weeks at a time? All the while remaining light enough to fit in a backpack, on a touring bike or in a kayak?

The sheer range of tent styles, designs and brands available can be intimidating and, even when splashing out, at around $300 to $500 a pop, most of us still can’t afford to choose a tent suitable for every occasion. For this reason, one of the most popular tents on the market is the two-person, three-season lightweight backpackers’ variety.

“One word – versatility,” says Henry Kelsey, Brand Manager at Wilderness Equipment. While many campers do so in pairs, contemporary designs and materials mean most two-man tents are also a reasonable weight for solo adventurers. And, as for climate adaptability, two out of three ain’t bad.

“Unless you’re heading above the snowline, a three-season tent is usually appropriate for use anywhere in Australia,” Kelsey says. “You can pitch them as bug tents in the tropics, and still get bad-weather performance for summer walking in Tassie.”

In this context, however, another word for versatility could be compromise. That is, between cost, weight and performance – the holy trinity of outdoor gear selection. The key to any purchase is measuring your priorities against these variables.

Different types of tents

Contemporary three-season tent designs can be separated into three main categories – dome, geodesic and tunnel. A dome tent structure comprises two flexible poles crossed over corner to corner, suspended with guy ropes, while a geodesic design adds an additional one or two shorter poles. The latter results in a sturdier structure, particularly in windy conditions, and often with increased headroom (but with extra weight thanks to the additional poles).

The tunnel tent, as the name suggests, consists of two or three arched poles forming a tunnel. Tunnel tents are not freestanding and must be pegged out, but generally have a higher space-to-weight ratio than freestanding tents.

Another consideration when choosing a tent design is the vestibule – a sheltered space between the inner and outer tent. Generally speaking, vestibule space should be generous enough to shelter gear with which you do not want to be sharing your sleeping quarters, but still want to keep dry from overnight rain and morning dew, such as your boots and pack.

Look out for tents with double entries, which means double the vestibule space. Double entries also provide improved cross-ventilation in humid conditions and help keep tent buddies on friendly terms by preventing unwanted late-night encounters when nature calls.

The ease with which a tent can be pitched is another important factor – something that may only become truly apparent that one time you arrive at camp after dark and in the rain…

Ventilation and preventing condensation

While a waterproof fly should effectively keep out the rain and dew, there’s still the problem of condensation – when warm, moist air hits the cool interior lining of your tent and condenses to form water droplets. “Without sufficient ventilation, condensation will form on the inside of the fly,” explains Kelsey – a piece of advice that would have been handy for my down-on-his-luck colleague.

When a three-season tent is being used at the colder end of its capabilities, the fly entry or entries are likely to be kept closed to keep out the full force of the wind (or, alternatively, simply for privacy at a crowded campsite).

Additional ventilation is therefore normally provided via a small opening high up on the fly to let air flow through the tent and prevent condensation from forming. The positioning of vents is key, says Kelsey. “If it isn’t in the top 20 per cent of the tent, its inclusion will be purely cosmetic,” he says.

Another attribute affecting the ventilation/condensation dynamic is whether the tent is single- or double-walled. Traditionally, and still commonly today, most tents consist of an inner breathable fabric layer and a waterproof outer layer or fly. The mesh tent is erected with poles, over which is positioned the waterproof flysheet secured by pegs and guy ropes.

This design improves ventilation compared to a single-skin tent, although thanks to modern waterproof materials and improved designs the latter is increasingly popular, particularly among solo hikers hoping to squeeze out the last grams of pack weight.

Materials of tents

The two standard fabrics used on modern lightweight tents are nylon or polyester, each with its comparative pros and cons (remember compromise?). Nylon is slightly stronger and stretchier than polyester, but polyester is inherently more water-resistant than nylon (although good tents will also incorporate a water-resistant coating on the outer fly). Polyester is also considered to have better UV resistance.

As material technology evolves, fabrics are becoming lighter while retaining durability, opening up new opportunities in lightweight design. “The materials that are now available are allowing us to manufacture products in ways that haven’t been done before,” says Kelsey. However, he adds, don’t be hoodwinked by what he calls the “race to the bottom” in tent weight, as this can sometimes mean reduced performance in other areas, such as the water resistance of the fly and floor.

“It’s easy to strip weight by using very light floor fabrics,” points out Macpac’s Dijkstra, “but in reality, the gain will often be negated by either a separate footprint or simply by frustrations because the floor will not last.”

Staying warm and dry

You’ll only find out how good a tent really is in bad weather,” says Daan Dijkstra, Content and Sponsorship Manager at Macpac. “When it’s sunny and warm, any tent will do.”

The water resistance of tent fabric is expressed as ‘hydrostatic head’, measured in millimetres. It refers to the water pressure required to penetrate the fabric. To test a tent fabric, manufacturers clamp the material over the bottom-end of a vertical tube. The tube is then slowly filled with water – if the fabric starts to leak when the water has reached a height of, say, 1000mm then that is its hydrostatic head.

In practical terms, water pressure is likely to be higher in heavy rain accompanied by winds, while your weight on the floor of the tent will add to the pressure on any water underneath, meaning the tent floor will need higher water resistance than the fly to avoid seepage. A hydrostatic head of about 1200mm or more for the fly will generally be adequate for most types of rain, while the floor of a three-season tent should be have a hydrostatic head of at least 5000mm.

The post The ultimate guide to tents appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Whether testing yourself on a Bass Strait crossing, enjoying a leisurely exploration of one of Sydney Harbour’s secluded bays, or simply wetting a line to catch dinner, the sea kayak will get you there – and back again.

Also known as a “touring kayak” – to differentiate it from its whitewater brethren – the sea kayak is versatile enough to be used for everything from estuary paddling, through to open water (coastal, ocean crossings, expeditions, big rivers) and is the most popular kayak type sold in Australia.

The sea kayak’s appeal is its robustness and versatility. It tracks easily through rough water, thanks to its length (as a guide, those looking for an ocean-ready sea kayak should use 5 metres as a minimum length) and its rudder (some models don’t have a rudder and are popular with traditionalists).

It is also relatively stable, so easy to master, and its impressive load capacity makes it a favourite with overnight/multi-day waterborne explorers; these craft can lug up to two paddlers, and their gear, easily; load capacities of 200kg+ are not uncommon.

The biggest influence on sea kayak (or any watercraft) pricing is the material it is made of. Your buying decision will also be governed by what level of performance you require; basically, the more rigid the craft, the easier it will cut through the water – making it faster – with less paddler input.

In terms of material, the cheapest is plastic. This material is also the heaviest (and thus the slowest) and has the most flex, but it is very tough (although not unbreakable); next up the cost line is fibreglass, which is relatively stiff and easily repaired; Kevlar and/or carbon significantly ups the price of your kayak, but offer the best in-water performance and rigidity, as well as significant weight savings.

Sea kayaks made from either of these materials require more care in and out of the water; keep clear of rocks and rugged beaches – and avoid dropping them.

A sea kayak should include, at a minimum, these standard features: ample storage (most have two storage compartments, covered with a waterproof lid); easily adjusted seat; easy-to-operate rudder system (leave rudderless models until you’re more experienced, unless you’re certain that’s what you want); and plenty of deck rigging up top to store water bottles and other gear you need easy access to.

You can also specify numerous accessories: custom seats, compasses, electric (or manual) bilge pumps, etc. No matter what spec of kayak you go for, make sure you throw in a marine first-aid kit (and know how to use it).

Stand Up Paddle board

Stand-up paddleboarding (SUP for short) has risen dramatically in popularity over the past five years, thanks mainly to its fast learning curve; you will easily be up and paddling on your first day.. Originating as an alternative wave-riding device for surfers, SUPs can be found all along our coastline and in many rivers and lakes.

The SUP is of a similar design and construction to a Malibu (longboard) surfboard; most models are a combination of a foam core and fibreglass/plastic outer layer and can be fitted with between one and three fins (ala a surfboard) which assists in manoeuvring these long craft.

Inflatable SUPs are a recent addition to the sport. Most models are inflated via a hand pump and, when they are properly inflated, are quite firm, albeit not as solid as a solid-material board.

Another benefit of an inflatable SUP is its ease of storage when compared to its solid-state counterpart, which also means they’re much more portable when it comes to planning that SUP-focused holiday.

Kayak Paddle types

Length, weight, blade type and construction (one- or two-piece) are all important factors in choosing the correct kayak paddle. Kayak paddles have two blades, at opposite ends of a connecting shaft. These blades can be feathered or unfeathered.

The term “feathered” describes the positioning of the two paddle blades at opposing angles. This is claimed to increase paddle efficiency in the water and through the air; as the lower blade hits the water at the optimum angle (there is no set “perfect” angle; individual paddlers have their own preference) for pulling through the water, the opposing paddle is angled to “slice through” the air, with the least impediment to the paddler.  

To determine your optimum length, Australian Canoeing suggests this method:

“The correct length paddle for [sea] kayaks… will be such that the bottom blade is just fully submerged as it passes the paddler’s knee whilst the top hand is at around eye height.”

In terms of construction, the one-piece paddle is stronger and simpler, meaning less maintenance and more reliability. Most one-piece paddles are also lighter.

Negatives include storage constraints due to length, and the feathering on one-piece units is not adjustable. The two-piece paddle takes up less storage space, and you can adjust feathering. And they are the preferred option for a spare.

During the course of a day’s paddling, you will use your paddle continuously; a lightweight paddle will minimise muscle fatigue that, in turn, maintains stroke efficiency. The most affordable paddles are of aluminium (shaft) and plastic (blades) construction.

These are also the most inefficient, due to weight and plastic’s inherent flex. Move up to the top tier of paddles and you’ll score a seriously stiff and light, full carbon-fibre paddle. A full-fibreglass paddle/shaft combo is the most popular – and offers the best bang for your bucks.

In terms of paddle blade shape, there are two options: symmetrical or asymmetrical. Then, you also have to consider the shape of the blade’s cross-section.

This can be flat, spooned, wing or dihedral. An asymmetrical-shaped blade is recommended for ocean touring as, due to the blade being at an angle when it cuts through the water, the asymmetrical blade’s extra surface area on the outer section, as well as the extra blade-space above the middle section, compensates for those parts of the blade (usually the upper middle section and inside edge) that are not in the water. In other words, even without the entire blade in the water, you don’t sacrifice too much in the way of propulsion.

As its name suggests, a spoon blade “spoons” the water, providing high levels of forward motion, albeit at the expense of bracing power. For those just starting out, a flat blade is the preferred option; it offers decent forward stroke power, and also provides more “bite” when bracing.

A dihedral blade eliminates blade “fluttering” (when your flat blade struggles to “push through” water due to the amount of force being applied to it by paddler and water, it starts to flutter).

The dihedral blade’s combo of two slightly different angled planes on its face, separated by a raised edge that acts in a similar way to a ship’s bow, helps the blade break through/disperse the force of the water directed at the paddle face, providing a more efficient stroke.

This also means the dihedral blade doesn’t “hold” or “push” water as effectively as a flat-planed blade, with the result being a reduction in forward stroke power.

The perfect paddle blade size will only become apparent after many hours on the water. And, it is directly influenced by the type of paddling you do, which influences the stroke angle you implement; high-angle brings more power, while a low-angle stroke is used for touring.

Theoretically, the larger the blade area, the more power output, but this will depend on paddlers strength, fitness and size – and kayak width, tracking and weight. Yep, for a simple-looking piece of equipment, there’s a lot more to a paddle than you think.

The post Finding the right paddle craft appeared first on Australian Geographic.

An out-and-back daytrip on quiet country back roads is cycle touring at its simplest, and perhaps most pure. At its most complex it can be an around-the-world odyssey that takes months, or even years, to complete, through some of the most inhospitable terrain imaginable.

You can do it solo, with a partner, or as part of an organised tour. You can even take your kids (if you’re up for a challenge!).

From the little-explored roads of your own patch to the heights of the Andes, the jungles of Cambodia, the desolation of the Russian steppes, the old world of Europe and absolutely everything in between, cycle touring is your opportunity to see the world at a slower pace.

• Video: Cycle touring in Tasmania

Cycle touring styles

Touring can be as easy as throwing a change of clothes and a credit card in a backpack and setting out whichever way the road takes you. You can also take your time, plan your route, build up your kit and depart on the ride of a lifetime after months of preparation.

Credit card touring naturally restricts you to more major centres, and it takes some discipline to leave a lot of your worldly possessions behind. It can be very liberating, though! A single rear pannier and bag, along with a handlebar bag, will fit a surprising amount of gear – and there’s the lure of a clean bed and a hot shower at the end of the day.

The large-scale tour takes research, trial-and-error, more research, expense and even more research. Thankfully, there are a lot of people who’ve already made a lot of the mistakes for you! There are literally thousands of touring blogs online; we’ve listed a couple that we like at the end of this article for you.

The key? Pick a date, book your holidays/quit your job, and just go…

Somewhere in between lies the supported tour. Fly with your bike to a destination, meet your guide and support team and enjoy the ride.

For time-poor tourers, this is a great way to jam in a trek across beautiful destinations (Vietnam is a favourite) with minimal organisation (other than a bit of pedal time before you leave).

Choosing the right bike

The technical aspects of setting up a touring bike don’t differ too much from those associated with a dedicated commuter rig. Simplicity and reliability are your first two keywords, with lightness and flexibility figuring in there, too.

For your first touring forays, a hardtail mountain bike is a great place to start looking for a number of reasons; they usually represent great value, come already equipped with tough, reliable components and can be easily sourced with mounts and holes for the fitment of racks and panniers.

The faster, lighter alternative to the mountain bike is the cyclocross bike. While it looks for all the world like a regular racing bike, the ’cross bike is easier to ride, stronger and better equipped for more rugged terrain.

The frame angles are slightly slacker, meaning the bike tracks and steers more predictably, while the tubing set itself is heavier duty.

Its gear ratios are much easier on the knees than a typical road bike, and it comes equipped with more powerful cantilever or disc brakes and wider rims and tyres. If you’re planning long days on relatively well-maintained roads that may include smatterings of dirt and gravel, a ’cross bike is almost custom-made for this kind of work.

Thinking of selling up and hitting the road for an extended spell? You might even need a more specialist rig. Aluminium frames are easily the most common off-the-peg machines, but the material’s biggest disadvantage out in the field is the fact that it can’t be easily repaired if it cracks or breaks.

Cro-moly steel, on the other hand, can be welded back together by anyone with the most basic gear and knowledge. It’s also still relatively light, makes for a comfortable, springy ride and is amazingly affordable.

Want four sets of bottle mounts, extra-strong rack mounts, a bottle-opener and light mounts? No problem for a custom builder.

While a reliable mid-level Shimano MTB drivetrain will do the trick, many long-haul tourers use internally geared rear hubs in conjunction with a belt drive to replace the chain. German company Rohloff’s 14-speed device is expensive, but very well regarded, only needing an oil change every 5000km.

It also allows you to select gears whenever you like; just twist the shifter, even from a standstill, and you can pedal away. Not having derailleurs hanging off the bike also prevents transit and crash damage from ruining your shifting.

It’s not as free-running and as precise as a nicely tuned derailleur system, though.
Belt drives do away with the chain, though the bike’s frame needs to be prepared especially to take the unbroken belt.

Belts are lighter, quieter and last much longer than chains, and for on-road touring they’re a worthwhile option.

They’re not as good when the going gets dirty, although they only need a quick squirt of water to come clean again.

Installing and setting up a belt drive is definitely something that’s best left to the experts; the belts themselves are quite fragile off the bike, and proper alignment and tension is critical to good performance.

There is also the option of buying an off-the-peg touring bike from specialist companies. German company Tout-Terrain is world-renowned for highly specced tourers like the Silk Road.

It’s an around-the-world rig straight off the shop floor thanks to its built-in rear rack, Rohloff rear hub and other high-end, touring-specific parts. They’re available in Australia, too. (See www.urbancycle.com.au)

Get the most from your bike brakes

Two relatively recent mountain bike innovations – suspension and disc brakes – lend themselves well to touring, but there are caveats. When it comes to front suspension forks, there are two distinct schools of thought.

If you’re not straying too far from civilisation, and you’re planning to ride on dirt, then a sprung front-end is a good bet. We’d recommend a fork that uses a steel coil spring rather than an air-sprung version; even if you have some sort of internal issue with the steel-sprung fork, it’ll still function in a basic way.

Lose the air from your air-sprung fork 500km from the next town, though, and you’re in a bit of trouble. If you’re really going back-country, a rigid fork is the most reliable of all; team it with a wide rim and a fatter, softer front tyre for more comfort at the handlebar.

Disc brakes are reliable and powerful in both cable-actuated and hydraulic form. The biggest issue with discs is the fitment of pannier racks and bags; the location of the discs can interfere with the bags.

There are options and solutions, but you may have to fuss about a bit. If you’re building a real back-country machine, cable-actuated discs are far easier to service in the field and survive crash and transport damage much better, though modern hydraulic brakes are incredibly reliable, too.

Transporting luggage on a cycle tour

When it comes to carrying your life in one or two bags, here’s the golden tip: don’t skimp on quality when it comes to pannier bags and racks. A cheap rack may be kinder to the build budget, but when it’s sitting askew and twisted when you’re parked beside an outback highway with 80km still to cover, it’s not a good deal.

Tubular steel racks are the hot tip; they can be patched up in a pinch, have the ability to carry astonishing amounts of weight and can be had in a bewildering array of combinations. Many people recommend Tubus racks for both the front and rear of the bike, which allows you to pack up to 60 or 70kg of gear!

It’s important, though, to match racks to bikes. You’ll need a different set-up if you’re running, say, a front-suspended 26-inch wheeled mountain bike in rough terrain as opposed to a 700c-wheeled road tourer over long stretches of tarmac.
Bags, too, are critical.

Well-regarded brands, such as Ortlieb are worth the extra money – again, if you’re caught in a tropical downpour that never seems to end, the last thing you want is a sodden mess inside the bag when you open it up.

Thule’s Pack ’n Pedal system, meanwhile, is more affordable and perfectly suited for semi-serious trekkers. They’ll also fit on almost any kind of bike you happen to own.

Want to pack a lot? We figure that you can fit up to eight bags on a bike pretty comfortably! How you pack your weight is very important, though, as it’ll affect the way the bike handles.

Heavy stuff should go low and rearwards, light and bulky low on the front forks and oft-used stuff should go on top of the rear rack and in a small bar bag.

Less is more when it comes to cycle touring apparel, both in quantity and appearance. Merino wool is almost the perfect cycling companion, while padded knicks under loose outer shorts are casual and comfortable.

Clothes and gadgets for cycle touring

Layering and extremity care are key elements when dressing for touring; a lightweight head covering, gloves and good quality socks will give you a high level of temperature control no matter what the conditions.

Add a lightweight rain jacket (zip-off sleeves and a hood are nice to have), a pair of semi-stiff SPD cycling shoes and a good helmet and you’re set.

The propagation of affordable electronic devices is perfectly suited to the rigours of cycle touring. Garmin’s Edge 810 bike GPS computer, for example, acts as a navigation tool, heart rate monitor, data recorder and cycle computer, and it can be recharged via USB from the new generation of dynamo front hubs.

A flexible solar panel can be stretched out over a pannier bag to recharge batteries, and dynamo LED lighting will make you more visible to road traffic.
Tools, too, have become lighter and cheaper.

With just two or three items, you should be able to perform almost every repair imaginable out on the road or in the bush. You do, however, need to know how to use whatever tool you choose to buy.

A basic knowledge of bike mechanics is essential; either put yourself through a course at a local shop, or get busy on YouTube.

A bike can take you a long way, but it can also get you a long way into trouble if you’re not prepared. As with all unsupported adventures, you’ll be limited by one key element – water. Leaps in digital technology mean it’s harder to be out of touch, but if you don’t have sufficient water, it doesn’t matter how many satellite phones you have.

A dedicated tourer will have provision to fit at least three bottles, and oversized brackets can hold 1.5-litre bottles.

Add three litres or more in a backpack, and there’s nearly 10 litres. Is that enough? Only you can decide…

We’ve only just scratched the very surface of cycle touring; the world really is your oyster. If you’ve got a trip planned, drop us a line!

Links

www.redspokes.co.uk
One of the world’s premier bike touring companies.

www.cyclingabout.com
A pair of young Aussies documenting their touring lifestyle via blog, review, pic and film.

www.co2friendly.blogspot.com.au
Great photos on this blog about one man and his quest to enjoy life on the down-low.

www.expeditionequipment.com.au
Distributors of Ortlieb’s excellent pannier bags.

www.thule.com.au
Check out Thule’s Pack ‘n Pedal rack/bag system.

The post Guide to cycle touring appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Add in the fact most DSLR cameras now come equipped (to varying degrees) with HD video filming capabilities, returning from your adventure with enough footage to make your own action documentary would seem a foregone conclusion.

However, as with top-notch still photography, creating the final – and hopefully captivating – result is dependent not only on having the best/most appropriate equipment for the job, but also possessing the knowledge and skills necessary to capture the ideal mix of footage that will ensure your final film stands out from the (literally) millions that are available to view on YouTube and Vimeo.

Look at some of the most memorable and exciting adventure videos online to get an idea of the job you have ahead of you; there are very few that only use one point of view – most are tightly edited with a mix of viewpoints and angles, all of which is accompanied by a catchy soundtrack of both music and voiceovers.

Yep, making a top action video ain’t easy  – and there’s a tough audience out there…

Adventure video: choosing your subject

The single best piece of advice regarding taking those first steps into adventure video creation is to stick with what you know in regards to subject matter.

If you’re an experienced climber, then a vertical adventure is your best choice for getting it right, because you know what you like, and what countless thousands of other climbers will be excited to watch.

You will also have the skills/fitness to keep up with the action. This obviously applies for any and all types of adventures, from that weekend mountain bike trip through to that two-week trek in the Himalayas.

By sticking to what you know, you will be able to envisage what shots will work best for your chosen audience, and also how you will be able to achieve those shots in the least amount of time.

Along with the technical skills required to shoot video, being able to successfully manage your time will be the biggest pointer to your success. Shooting video is akin to running a marathon compared to shooting still images.

And, again, this is where your experience and knowledge of the subject will come to the fore: by knowing the shot types you want – and how difficult or easy they will be to shoot – you will save a lot of time. Preparation is key – as is envisaging what your end result will look like, well before you start filming.

Creating a video: tell a story 

Hollywood directors use a storyboard to roughly nut out how they want their upcoming feature film to look from a visual standpoint, and adventure videographers should do the same.

There’s nothing more boring than watching a video that goes nowhere, such as just following a mountain bike trail, or the front-end of a kayak for five or 10 minutes. If you head into the field without a story plan, you will be continually slowed by moments of “should I shoot this” and “I wonder if this will work”, etc.

Trying ideas in the field and realising that you don’t have the right equipment for a particular piece of footage, or you’re in the wrong location at the wrong time of day, can be a huge waste of time and extremely frustrating.

Plan your story first and you will eliminate potential time wastage on the adventure. More importantly, you will also ensure it is fun, which is what your adventure should be.

You won’t have to rush out and brush up on your script-writing skills – your story idea should include an envisaged final running time but be mainly focused on ensuring that the end result includes a clear beginning, an exciting middle, and an end; a journey to a certain location, with that destination as the final “goal” of the movie, is an ideal story plan. Keep it nice and simple and it will allow you to visualise the types of shots you need to capture along the way, and how you want them to flow in the finished result.

Finally, you need to pack the gear appropriate to the footage you require.

Adventure filming: the essentials

Australian Geographic Adventure’s video kit is relatively bare bones.

This is mainly due to the fact most of our assignments are expedition-based and generally cover trekking, paddling, camping and MTB/cycle touring.

A kit such as ours is the epitome of the “light and fast” ethos that we adhere to during assignment.

However, even though it looks sparse, the kit allows us to capture all the essential footage and audio to produce a short two- to five-minute adventure video, for use in the VIEWA in-mag app, as well as on our website.

And, importantly, this kit is relatively cheap. The use of a DSLR for both stills and moving images cuts down on weight and cost.

That doesn’t mean we don’t recommend a handheld digital video recorder – we do, if you have the space and carrying capacity it makes a fantastic addition to the kit below.

Action Camera  

Hot pick: GoPro Hero3+ Black Edition.

RRP$529 www.gopro.com

GoPro has been under a bit of pressure lately, with the advent of some formidable competing products from Garmin, Sony and Contour.

The company’s response was to release the GoPro Hero3+ Black Edition, which has become the latest addition to AGA’s kit.

The Hero3+ Black Edition offers formidable specs (as stated earlier), plus it is now a claimed 30 percent smaller than the previous model, and also offers improved battery life (one of the main complaints of the GoPro cams has been the underpowered batteries).

On top of this, there are myriad accessories for GoPro cams on the market – everything from waterproof cases through to a number of clamps to attach the camera to pretty much anything.

The GoPro takes a little while to get used to; having no inbuilt screen (there’s an accessory one available) and rudimentary on/off buttons means we opted for the Wi-Fi remote to operate ours.

The remote allows you to quickly toggle through settings and, most importantly, allows you to check easily that the camera is actually on.

DSLR

Hot pick: Canon EOS 70D $1275 www.canon.com.au

DSLR cameras have become the go-to video option for adventurers due to their ability to shoot both still images and video footage – both with a larger sensor than that available in most handheld video cameras.

Initially, during operation, DSLR videographers had to focus the lens manually, which meant some up-skilling was needed. This has changed somewhat with the release of Canon’s 70D DSLR, which features touch-screen autofocus capabilities, using the rear display screen.

This makes effects such as pull-focus (where the foreground subject is initially in focus, then the focus shifts smoothly to the background subject) a lot easier to accomplish.

The 70D’s robust construction and excellent still images – as well as the huge number of Canon EOS lenses available – make it a must-pack on expeditions.

Microphone  

Hot pick: RODE Stereo VideoMic Pro RRP$349 www.rodemic.com

Compact, easy to use and robust (it comes with a 10-year warranty), the SVMP is the Aussie company’s best mic – in our opinion – for outdoor use.

It uses an integrated shock mounting system to reduce the effects of mechanical noise and vibrations – ideal for outdoors – and also has a cool +20dB level boost feature, designed to lower a DSLR camera’s inherent low-quality preamp level.

In layman’s terms, this mic offers excellent audio! We’ve been impressed with its performance to date.

Software

Hot pick: Adobe Premiere Pro. $19.95/month subscription www.adobe.com.au
Adobe’s Premiere Pro is a hell of a lot of software (if you’re daunted by its complexity, you can start with Premiere Pro Elements) but the results are brilliant.

Some of the many features of this software include being able to edit multiple camera footage at once, and editing and splicing in footage (and even different frame rates) from different cameras.

The colour grading facility is awesome, allowing for excellent colour matching across all your footage, audio is easily separated and then edited by section, you can smooth-out shaky footage and also change film speed easily.

All of this means Premiere Pro is complex, so we’d recommend attending a course focused on learning the basics first.

Make an engaging video

An engaging adventure video will have multiple angles of view to maintain viewer interest and keep the story telling fresh.

Be careful not to shoot everything from the same plane, such as eye level, or from the same fixed point on your bike/kayak; if you get down low, you can create more unique/interesting perspective on the action.

Wide angle landscape photography looks awesome on a printed page, but when shooting video, these shots should only be used to help “locate” the adventure for the viewer; too much wide-angle footage means the viewer gets lost as the action – and the people involved – become too small and hard to see.

A good adventure film will have a mix of close-up shots of both action and what is termed “piece to camera”, where a person is talking directly at the camera.

Medium close-ups involve the participants being in the frame but with some background to portray their current location/surroundings.

And don’t forget to shoot plenty of mood footage. This could be a time-lapse of a sunrise/sunset, a long shot of a big river, or a really close-up shot of someone fixing a rope or a paddle dipping in a river.

The moving image is all about just that – moving. Any action should be shot from both the perspective of the participant, via an attached action cam and, if possible, also from a mid-distance point, to put the up-close footage into perspective; if the viewer can only see the kayaker’s face/arms getting splashed – and not the huge set of rapids they are paddling down – it might look staged or even fake.

By showing both close-up point-of-view footage and the more distant footage, viewers get a real feel for what the kayaker is doing – and going through, emotionally!

Sound advice for videos

Ever watched a film with no sound? Boring, ain’t it? A carefully matched soundtrack – how you edit in background music, natural sound (audio recorded on location), and a smattering of on-camera interviews and voice-over narrative, will make or break a film.

Speaking of breaking, don’t rely on your DSLR’s inbuilt microphone to record in the field; operational noises, such as button clicks, etc., plus wind noise, can render the recorded footage useless.

For a reasonable sum (around $150-300) you can pick up a camera-mounted microphone (the RODE range of camera-mount mics are excellent) or you can opt for a lapel mike. There are also mics available for GoPro and other action cams.

Being able to do sound grabs or interviews to camera is a must; it adds another dimension to the look and feel of the final video and ensures the viewer remains connected with the adventurer(s).

Recording plenty of audio during the trip also means you can use the audio track as a voice-over narration instead, if you find that suits the film during the editing stages, where you make your final decisions.

And they – along with the editing process itself – won’t be easy.

Making a video: the final word

Sitting down to edit your hours of footage into a five- to 10-minute adventure video is probably the least enjoyable but most important part of the documentary making process.

Editing also involves a huge amount of skill, not only in terms of the technical expertise needed to use some of the higher-end editing software, but also in merging the different types of footage; a captivating video not only has a cool storyline, but also uses a variety of camera angles and audio/soundtrack combinations to keep viewers intrigued.

If you’re starting out, Apple’s iMovie software is a great introduction to video editing. For a more complex editing process, that allows you to cut and tweak the visual and audio footage in more detail, Adobe’s Premiere Pro and After Effects, along with Apple’s Final Cut Pro, are the big ones.

These programs are big – and take some time to master – but persevere and the end results will reflect your hard work.

Learning to create a watchable, enjoyable adventure video will take time but, along the way, it will also be amazing fun.

It’s important not to get too caught up in the seriousness of it all; even if you only end up with one sole minute of decent edited footage at the end, that 60 seconds will still remind you of why you get out there and chase adventure.

The post Adventure filming appeared first on Australian Geographic.

For general two-up trekking, a three-season, two/three-person tent – with a separate inner and outer section – is ideal. Look for a tent with ample ventilation, space for occupants and gear, and light weight. You will probably have to satisfy yourself with two of those three.

Depending on its country of origin, a three-season tent may offer anything from a full-mesh inner to an inner that comprises a 50/50 split between mesh and material, or one that has an extra material door. This door allows you to cool the tent interior on warm days, but also shut it up snug on colder ones – it adds seasonal versatility, albeit with a slight weight penalty. A tent that has two vestibules, ample dimensions, plenty of tie-down points and an easy set-up will win every time.

The two main tent designs are dome or tunnel, with set-up designs ranging from inner-first to integral (all-in-one). Each has pros and cons: domes are great (and often can be free-standing) at shedding snow/water but, with a larger “face” of material presented to any high winds, can be blown about more readily.

When pitched correctly (in the direction of the wind) tunnel tents are more stable because there is less material taking the brunt of the wind. However, a tunnel tent needs to be tied down – not always easy in rocky terrain.

Tents that pitch inner-first are great if it is hot as you can just pitch the inner (or outer). However, if it is raining when you get to camp, an inner-first design means your sleeping area will get wet during set-up. Integral-pitch tents set up all-in-one and, in wet weather, keep the inner dry. Most two-person tents are best left to couples. There are light three-person tents around and, with the load split between two people, that extra space will be appreciated.

Tent materials

Nylon and polyester, with siliconised and non-siliconised variants of both, are the two tent materials. Polyester is more resistant to UV rays than nylon and also won’t sag as much when wet. Siliconised versions of both materials significantly increase durability.

A tent fabric’s water-resistance is measured in hydrostatic head (HH), which indicates the pressure of water needed to penetrate a fabric; the higher the number the better. For the tent poles, aluminium rules, with varying grades (priced accordingly) as well as different diameters. Never store the tent damp – it will acquire mould, which you can never get rid of.

Purchase: Take yourself and (if you hike two-up regularly) your partner to an outdoor shop to see if you both fit inside comfortably. Be realistic. It’s no use buying a four-season mountaineering tent if you’re going to do overnight treks near home.

The post Trekking essentials: choosing the right tent appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Yet food on the trail is more important to a bushwalker than simply feeding the calorie monster which swipes at energy levels with every earthen footstep. Eating well boosts morale – an anticipated reward at the end of a long days trudge.

Perhaps more importantly, the bush kitchen equipment you choose to lug with you could be a lifesaver, so it better work. Just as importantly, you’d better know how to use it.

Which stove to choose?

Yes, a camp fire is very romantic and cooks well – there’s nothing like the taste of wood-smoked porridge first thing in the morning. But there are downsides: you’re reliant on dry wood, wind can be a meal stealer, it’s environmentally unfriendly and, in the wrong conditions, can risk setting off a bushfire that’ll cook more than your damper.

A stove, on the other hand, is as environmentally sound as fire can be, you can use it in all weather, and its heat can be more controllable. But not all stoves are born equal. So it pays to know your primer from your propane. Your three primary choices are below.

1) Liquid (multi-fuel) stoves

Super versatile, liquid-fuel stoves burn white gas (commonly called shellite), unleaded petrol, white spirits and even dry cleaning fluid, which means you can find a fuel to make this style work in most places worldwide. They are favourites for mountaineers as they are reliable and perform well in extreme cold or at high altitude.

The down side is that they can be fiddly to operate (taking longer to get going), they require more maintenance, and they tend to have much less control of flame and therefore heat levels. Because your base fuel is liquid, there’s often a little spillage going on, which can blow up in your face – literally – if you’re not careful.

Not one for the kids to mess around with. If using in a tent through necessity (snowstorm), you have to watch the fact that liquid multi-fuel stoves emit carcinogenic compounds dangerous to your health and they can flare; not so good for your melt-in-an-instant tarp.

These stoves can also be jet-engine noisy and weigh in on the heavier side. Some models, like the popular MSR Whisperlite, will only run on shellite or petrol and
struggle with the ‘heavier’ fuels like kerosene. In the case of the Whisperlite there is the Internationale model, which has modifications allowing it to run heavy fuels if you change its jet nozzle.

2) Liquid-gas cylinder stoves

Relying on a blend of pressurised liquefi ed gas (usually isobutane/propane) to fire up, these are the easiest of all stoves to operate and, depending on how long your trek is and how many canisters you are going to have to lug, can actually work out to be the lightest.

Quick to ignite, they have the best flame and heat control, meaning all you Tetsuya-wannabes will prefer them. The burners tend to be small, so in general are only suitable for small pots and pans, and the specifi c gas canisters are less widely available than other fuel sources.

They are popular with Australian trekkers because of their availability here, but head overseas and supply diminishes depending on where you are, especially in developing nations. Because they are quick to light, these are ideal for mid-walk cuppas.

A major drawback is a decline in effi ciency as the temperature drops and altitude rises. At very low temperatures the gas does not evaporate well.The canisters can seem expensive, too, although there are those who have (successfully) argued that on a whole-package consideration of stove and fuel costs, gas-stove economics do measure up.

Another drawback is they have a smaller fl ame zone, so are more suited to cooking for one or two people. The canister usually acts as the stove base, making this model more unstable than most multi-fuel stoves which tend to have outstretched legs.

3) Alcohol stoves

The stove for gadget guys, lightweighters and DIY bods. These run on widely available methylated spirits, or other alcohol blends.

While there are great off -the-shelf examples – the Trangia being the most widely known and used – you can mold one out of a soft drink can if you’re stuck. Widely available fuel is the biggest benefi t here. The lack of cooking grunt is the biggest downside. An open alcohol flame doesn’t burn super hot.

Units are usually simple with no moving parts, meaning no real maintenance or breakdowns, the bane of multi-fuels, which often get clogged. Heat output is lower than other types of stoves, so boiling and cooking times are much longer.

There’s also no way to adjust heat output, so intricate camp recipes requiring fi nesse are out. No souffle.

Windy conditions play havoc with alcohol flames too. The fuel is also heavier than other options for the number of meals it can cook. The stove itself is lightweight and if fuel stops are available or you’re only out for a few days, then this is an option. But lots of meals, many days or many people to feed means you’ll be lugging a moonshine factory in fuel weight.

Only three types of stove? Of course not – there’s plenty more but let’s be blunt, they’re for flame watchers (people a little too mesmerised by flame and gadgetry), not pragmatists. What the hell, for your edification, other stoves you can lay your hands on if you want to starve:

Chemical solid fuel

A metal stand on which you place a tablet of solid fuel (usually hexamine) the size of a box of matches. These are super stable unlit and easy to carry (as opposed to other fuels for stoves which spill and ignite easily) but heat output is very low. There’s no heat control – it’s on or off.

Tablets will take about 8-15 minutes to boil 500ml. Given they only last for about 15 minutes, that’s a lot of tablets to make a meal. www.zenstoves.net/SolidFuelBurner.htm

Natural solid fuel: There are some small stoves on the market that make use of twigs, pine cones and other ‘wild found’ small fuel items.

The difference between these and just having a regular fire is that the container is designed in a way to maximise the heat potential of whatever fuel you can find (usually wood based, but if there happens to be a yak farm nearby, and you can snag some dry dung).

Here’s a souped up version: www.biolitestove.com/CampStove.html

Solar

Yes, solar camp stoves exist. They are plastic sheet contraptions that capture and focus the sun to make an ‘oven’. This is slow food at its slowest. If there’s no sun you’re stuff ed. But, hey, it’s the most environmentally friendly. That is until you’re so starved waiting for your food that you go kill a kangaroo. Which some people would argue is still environmentally friendly. Some people. Not us. Check it out: www.zenstoves.net/Solar

Factors to consider when buying a stove

When buying a stove, there’s more to consider than if it has a coff ee plunger, although that could be regarded as a deal breaker by some (me). Proceed directly to the Jet Boil. Others argue there’s more to a stove than add-on gadgets:

Fuel: What is available in the location in which you will be trekking? For instance, in the backblocks of Nepal – a popular place to trek – you generally won’t find anything other than kerosene.

So you’ll need a multi-fuel stove with a jet nozzle that can handle kero (as opposed to one that is built only for unleaded petrol and white gas/Shellite).

On popular paths, even up to Namche Bazaar, you will find liquid gas canisters – but they aren’t the best at altitude nor in the cold, which brings us to the next point; What conditions will you be trekking in?

In super cold or high locales, you’ll want to steer clear of alcohol stoves and liquid canister gas: both struggle with negative degrees and altitude. If extreme chill and
heights over 3000-4000m aren’t a concern, and weight is, then liquid gas canisters are a great option for anything up to five or so days.

Why only so long?

After that the balance of weight of fuel versus meals able to be cooked swings back to multi-fuel models. Which brings us to the next point: How heavy a stove are you prepared to carry?

This consideration effectively comes down to not so much the stove unit, but the burn efficiency of the fuel, the number of days you’ll be trekking (or the number of meals you’ll cook) and the pans you’re lugging.

In general, the lightest stove kits are the worst performers. Since wood (or solar) stoves don’t require packing in fuel, they are the lightest. Solid chemical systems remain lightweight, even on extended trips. Alcohol stove systems are lighter than petrol and gas canister stoves but not as effi cient, so need more fuel.

Despite the ‘heavy’ metal canisters used for liquid gas, their efficiency makes canister kits lighter than alcohol systems on longer trips.

Multi-fuel stove systems can be heavy – both in terms of the unit and fuel – but their efficiency enables them to be lighter weight overall on treks requiring more than about 70-80 meals (a ‘meal’ being one burn-to-boil of 500ml, which may add up to much more than three ‘meals’ a day. Talking to you, coffee/tea addicts).

Confused yet? Best to choose your stove based on other factors, then find the lightest in your chosen category. At the end of the day the type and amount of food you in tend cooking (and their containers) varies pack weight much more than the stove itself. How long will you be in the bush? The longer you’re out there, the more you’ll swing from alcohol or canister gas to multi-fuel stove.

Assuming availability, canister gas stoves are the best for treks with less than 45-50 meals. After that, the balance of efficiency versus weight swings to multi-fuel stoves.

What is the performance and efficiency (‘burn time’)? This is more the crux of a purchase decision if you’re not looking to be a lightweight, uber-gear freak.

Gas canister and multi-fuels burn hottest, boiling water quicker and requiring less fuel over time, meaning they also last the longest per gram. They are also more controllable (gas canister more so), meaning you can slow the rate of fuel use when simmering.

How many people do you need to cook for? This point gets back to performance – ever tried cooking for four or more people with an alcohol stove? Slow going.

This also matters when looking at the actual unit: Jet Boils (gas canister) only have small pots attached, best for solo cooking only. Obvious point: the more people, the bigger the unit and the stronger your heat source needs to be.

What do you want to cook (aka how fussy are you)? This really boils down (pun intended) to how much control you need over your flame. For meals requiring variable and precise control in the cooking process, you’ll want to lean toward gas canisters if possible. Multi-fuels don’t have as much control over the flame, but they do have some. Alcohol stoves can only be controlled (on some models like a Trangia) by part-closing a swing lid over the burn opening.

Other stove types: no control whatsoever

What is your budget? We can argue details all day, but if the wallet doesn’t extend to that fancy multi-fuel (often the most expensive units) or an endless supply of canisters (the most expensive fuel source), your choice will be made for you by economics. Homemade alcohol stoves, when combined with relatively alcohol, means they are inexpensive. The stove units for canister stoves are usually on the economical side, too (but not the canisters).

How patient are you? If you opt for multi-fuels, you’ll need to deal with fiddly set up and fi ddly maintenance, but quick cooking. Gas canister stoves are for those with no time for detail except when it comes to cooking the actual food with precision. Alcohol stoves are mostly straightforward.

Safety? A big question if you’re handing the stove to your teenagers or if you’re just a bit of a klutz. Multi-fuels can go ‘whuumph’. They also get messy with fuel spillage (I am yet to dismantle bottle from stove without getting shellite all over me). Same goes for alcohol in terms of spillage, but it is a more stable fuel than petrol.

Gas canisters are no mess, no fuss and generally very safe. Solid chemical fuels are also extremely safe. They won’t cook your food, but they are safe.

You need to be mindful when dealing with all stoves of fumes and CO2 build-up, especially in enclosed areas (a cave sleepover) or if you’ve retreated to your tent – which you should not do when cooking unless absolutely necessary.

And even then, I take it half back. The souffle – depending on your interpretation – can be done on a camp stove and I have photographic evidence.

Okay, so it was a White Wings pudding, not souffle. Technicality. It was chocolate, and I managed to cook it on the Optimus Crux, light and fluffy. I managed this triumph of bush dessert cuisine by boiling it, one pot placed inside another water pot on the bubble. Eat your hearts out Matt Preston and George Calombaris!

The post Picking the right camp stove appeared first on Australian Geographic.

WHATEVER TRIP type appeals to you, its success hinges on careful preparation and planning. Start with the basics: how long do you have and how far are you prepared to go? It is very important to remember this is a holiday, not a test of endurance. For a vehicle-based camping adventure, you must take it slow. Anyone can drive for 12 hours straight but that will not benefit you, the driver(s), or your fellow travellers.

Perusing a series of maps focused on the area you’re visiting allows you to get an idea of distance involved, as well as giving you the chance to mark off any side-trips you may want to attempt on the way, and check campsite locations and re-fuelling and re-supplying points. Be generous with the time you allot your trip – there’s no point in allowing only two weeks to get from, say, Sydney to Kakadu National Park. You will spend all your time driving and not have a chance to truly experience the destination.

When planning a big driving holiday, the best bet – for the sake of sanity and safety – is to halve your usual daily-driving estimate. For example, if you are comfortable driving for eight hours a day in “normal” conditions, allow for four hours maximum each day. This will keep you fresh and allow plenty of “stretching” time, as well as the chance to spend more time than you expected at any stopovers. Be sure to allow at least half a day for any side-trip or, better still, make it an overnight stop.

By marking up a rough itinerary on the relevant map, you then have a guide to what distance you’re expecting to drive and, by checking out all the map info, you will also know what you will need to pack, both in regards to clothing and equipment. Photocopying the marked-up map – or writing up an itinerary – is also a pertinent safety precaution. Giving family or friends a copy will ensure that, if anything does go wrong, they will have an idea of where you’d planned to be on any given day.

Of course, these days, you now have the benefit of technology for all parts of the adventure-planning process. Google Earth is brilliant, as are the myriad GPS mapping software programs available on your personal computer or tablet. It is easy to map out an itinerary, then print it out for yourself, as well as email that same itinerary to whoever you wish to have a copy.

In-vehicle GPS units also help keep you on track, with units from brands such as Navman, Magellan, Garmin, Mud Maps and Hema some of the best in the business when it comes to thorough, accurate mapping of Australia (and OS). And most of these brands have apps that run on tablets, allowing you to have a much larger screen on which to check your progress as you travel. Bonus: you – or your children – can add a daily diary (and photos) as you go.

Transportation

YOUR CHOICE of vehicle will, to some extent, govern where you go – and how much gear you take with you. If you own a sedan or station wagon, you will be limited to sealed and smooth unsealed roads, plus any easily negotiated national park or state forest fire roads. This does not mean you will miss out on seeing some of Australia’s most spectacular country; most parks roads and some forestry tracks are quite easily negotiated with the average front- or rear-wheel drive sedan/station wagon.

For those wanting to explore more remote areas of Australia, a four-wheel drive is the best option. The modern 4X4 handles very much like a normal station wagon and they offer oodles of storage space – and towing capacity if you’re camping with a camper-trailer or caravan – as well as the ability to transport you to some of the Australia’s wildest and least-crowded regions.

Before you even think about turning the key on the first day of your camping adventure, get a qualified mechanic to thoroughly check your vehicle. And make sure you mention that you are heading off on a big camping trip. That way, the mechanic can recommend any repairs or modifications.

Half the fun of vehicle-based family camping is seeing how much – or how little – gear you can take. This calls for a smart – and safe – approach to in-vehicle storage. If you own a station wagon or 4X4, the first thing you need to ensure is that vehicle occupants are protected from the gear you pack in the back. This means fitting a cargo barrier – permanent or temporary – that will keep any loose gear from falling into the passenger area if you have an accident.

Milford Industries make the best barriers and offer permanent and temporary models, which can be removed after your trip. As well as this, you must ensure all your bags/boxes/gear are tied down using your vehicle’s cargo anchor points, found in the back of all wagons and 4X4s. By securing these, plus adding the security of a cargo barrier, you should eliminate any chance of injuries.

If you pack light, you’ll fit more gear in a smaller space, and your vehicle will also lug a lighter load, thus maintaining decent fuel economy over the course of your trip. If you’re keen to budget fuel usage, take your average fuel-consumption figure from general driving, and double it. This may sound like an over-estimation but, if your driving entails lots of highway kilometres, with a vehicle much more heavily laden than normal – or you’re driving a lot on sand – it will allow for this.

Also be aware that as soon as you add a roof-rack, with watercraft (kayaks/canoes), bikes or a luggage container, you will immediately increase your vehicle’s wind resistance, which in turn ups fuel consumption.

Wherever possible store items in boxes. This means you can group your cooking equipment, kids’ toys, spares, camping gear and food into separate marked boxes, making it easier to grab the things you need. In regards to water, ensure you pack plenty but also store it in several containers. That way, if one does burst, you still have plenty of spare water. Another smart tip is to not block out the driver’s view to the rear of the car by jam-packing it with holiday luggage.

The campsite

BEING VEHICLE-BASED means you and your family have the luxury of carrying more “stuff”. Whether it’s a few extra toys, or a mammoth air bed, you can indulge yourselves – as long as you do it sensibly.

If your family camping is tent-based, you will have a much larger tent than when hiking. There are some great models on the market that can fit a family of three or four. These models are available in a variety of configurations, too, ranging from large dome tents with additional “rooms” and annexes, through to tents, such as the Black Wolf Turbo range (pictured above left), which are very quick to set up and, for their size, pack up compactly and are reasonably light. Your tent will be your largest packed item so you need to ensure it will fit – or you can store it on a roof-rack.

When looking for a family tent, concentrate on the build quality;  aluminium poles are a must, as is good quality material. Ripstop canvas is heavier but far more durable than nylon/synthetic. However, canvas does take longer to dry and is heavy when wet, making it difficult to pack up in miserable conditions. But, if treated right, a tent made of ripstop canvas should last for many years.

If you have storage space issues, a nylon/synthetic tent will pack smaller and, if cared for properly, will still do sterling family camping service for years. One other option – and this is dependent on the age of your children – is to have one main tent for mum and dad, and smaller tents (either one- or two-man) for the kids. The youngsters will have great fun setting up a “tent city” and it also gives them some independence and responsibility.

For those after a more permanent arrangement, camper-trailers are becoming increasingly popular. They offer – in most cases – the convenience of a caravan, without the weight and size issues. A decent camper-trailer can start at about $7000, with some models going all the way up to $60k-plus.

But even basic models have oodles of space inside, top-notch quality canvas, plus options such as pull-out gas cookers, food preparation benches, on-board portable fridge/freezer, and awnings for shelter in foul weather, for example. With some models you can start at the base and option up however you please, with everything from an extra fridge or solar panels for power, through to a second battery and inverter to run your laptops/tablets and charge your batteries with.

It all depends on your budget. Setting up each night can be a fun activity for the kids. (Word of advice: practise this at home first!) Most models can be erected in about 15 minutes, meaning more time for the kids to explore their new “home”.

Food, light and power

COOKING EQUIPMENT can be as extravagant as you can fit in the vehicle, too. Multi-burner stoves – and a gas bottle – mean you can replicate any homemade dish. Modern cooking equipment is compact and reliable, with the only caveat being it still pays to take extra gas mantles as they perform double-duty as a spare part for your gas lighting if you opt for that. Other cooking options are steel-plate barbecues, but these can be made redundant in the summer months due to fire bans in national parks and state forests.

Still, they do pack down small and, if you get the chance, there’s nothing quite like cooking food over a fire. (And, yep, marshmallows are mandatory for the younger members of the family.)

Food storage is always the most difficult to figure out when camping. The Esky is still a favourite for short weekend jaunts (or where there is a nearby supply of ice) but, increasingly, portable fridge/freezers are becoming the popular choice. These units range in size from around 30L through to 100L-plus. Obviously, your vehicle’s storage space will govern the fridge size – the best advice is to go as big as you can; it’s surprising how quickly you can fill a fridge/freezer with a week’s worth of camp food.

For a family of four, a 40-litre fridge would be the minimum for a week away from re-supply points. Engel, WAECO and ARB are three of the most popular fridge/freezer brands. Units can run off your main vehicle battery during the day but will need an alternative power source at night in the form of a second, auxiliary battery, or a portable power pack.

If you do opt for a fridge/freezer, as with all your other electrical devices – GPS units, cameras, laptops, tablets – you will need a decent power supply. If you’re not planning on staying at powered campsites, there are a few options: if you have a 4X4, one of the easiest solutions is to install an auxiliary battery in the engine bay, along with extra power outlets in the cargo area.

This will allow you to power/charge your electrical accessories each night. It is worth noting, however, that you will still need to keep the auxiliary battery’s charge up. This is usually taken care of with each day’s driving, as the battery is constantly charged by the vehicle’s main battery. If not, be aware that an auxiliary battery will generally last three to four days (usage dependent) before running flat. Companies such as Piranha, ARB, TJM and Opposite Lock all offer dual-battery solutions for vehicles.

For those station wagon/sedan owners, a portable power pack can provide the same service and works in a very similar way by being charged off the main vehicle battery while driving, with enough “juice” to power most equipment for an overnight (or two) stay.
Camp lighting options are wider than ever. Gas lighting is still the standard but LED (light-emitting diode) camp lighting is encroaching on gas’s domain. The main appeal of LED lighting is its low power draw.

LED lighting is available in single units or as strips, which can be fitted/attached to your vehicle’s tailgate or hung from any high point near your campsite. Visiting any good camping store will allow you to see the wide range of LED lighting options. Gas, however, shouldn’t be dismissed: if you use a gas bottle for your cooking, it can also perform double duty as a lighting power source – and gas lights still throw loads of light, offering excellent bang for your bucks in the illumination department.

Taking the toys

MORE THAN half the fun of vehicle-based camping is its sheer flexibility when it comes to the destination(s) and what you wish to do once there. If you’re a mad-keen sea kayaker, a coastal destination will beckon; if you’re a bushwalker, then a far-distant group of tracks awaits. This all means you’ll need to bring all the gear suited to that destination and its activities. With a vehicle, this is simply sorted by fitting a carrier – or carriers. By fitting bike carriers and/or a roof-rack that can hold your watercraft, you can make the big trip a seriously active one as well.

With the abundance of carrying systems around – Thule is one of the biggest names here – you have no excuse not to load up yours and the kids’ bikes, as well as the canoe, when you head off.

Most carrier systems can be fitted and removed quite easily and quickly at home, so don’t have to be a permanent fixture on your vehicle, and are well made to resist being covered in water, grime and dirt. All systems offer padded holders for your gear to eliminate any chance of incidental damage during transport, and the fun factor return on investment is immense.

No matter what outdoor activity you and your family pursue, you can bet there’s a vehicle-based carrying system for it.

The end game

AS MUCH AS you’d love to stay at that favourite campsite forever, you will at some point have to return home. This invariably means the sad task of packing away all your gear once you’re back. If you are well organised, this can be an easy, even pleasant task: having a place for each element in your vehicle-camping repertoire means what could be an hours’ long drag is done quickly and efficiently.

It is also important to clean all your gear when you get back and store it in its appropriate place. Also remember to update, renew or replace anything you’ve used so that when it comes time for your next camping adventure, it is all ready to go. This “system” approach really does work and, by eliminating that dreaded feeling of having to start from scratch when it comes time for the next trip, you will only be encouraged to pack the vehicle and get out there more often. And that, really, is what it is all about.

The post Vehicle-Based Camping appeared first on Australian Geographic.

This is partly because our population is concentrated along the coast, the natural habitat of sea kayaks and ocean skis. However, we also have numerous rivers, lakes, dams and estuaries that are ideal for canoeing and right now these are primarily the preserve of school groups and Duke of Edinburgh participants, noisily splashing around in big, plastic Wobbegongs.

These rivers are screaming out to be explored further, by paddlers in proper touring boats, on small independent missions to follow the flow and camp on the banks as people have done for thousands of years. From the small town of Robertson, in NSW’s Southern Highlands, one bloke is spearheading a canoe revival.

Travis Frenay is an upstate New Yorker, born and bred on the shores of Oneida Lake, who – when he’s not teaching canoeing techniques to TAFE outdoor rec students – is championing the opportunities offered by open boats and single-bladed paddles. First up, here’s a disclosure: Travis brings Wenonah Canoes into Australia. However, his missionary zeal is not that of a self-interested salesman.

“I just couldn’t believe how few people paddle canoes here,” he says, when we hit the Shoalhaven River for a canoeing skills session cunningly disguised as a four-day, three-night downriver tour. 

The Shoalhaven, which dissects Morton National Park, is a classic example of a waterway perfect for canoe touring. The upper reaches boast challenging rapids and this section is regarded as the best downriver trip in the region for experienced paddlers.

On the middle section, just above the dam at the confluence of the Kangaroo River, the water sprawls out to form meandering Lake Yarrunga, with numerous calm nooks and crannies ripe for exploring and bush camps perched under the awnings of the ruddy escarpment.

We spend two of the next four days practising flat-water techniques here. Below the dam, the lower section offers yet more rapids, and this is where we put in for the moving-water portion of my education – straight into a feisty stretch of challenging whitewater.     

Canoe v kayak

Accompanying us are several of Trav’s current and former TAFE students and two fellow outdoor instructors, both called Matt and both from the UK, where canoeing is widely taught and enjoyed. Matt 1 is an all-round paddler and a devout open-boat enthusiast, cut from the same cloth as Trav, but Matt 2 is more of a climber and a kayaker, and as we gear up he poses a common question: “So tell me again, why are we taking canoes, not kayaks?”  

The reasons are many. Canoes can carry far more equipment than kayaks, making them ideal boats for touring and multi-day river expeditions. Most of your gear should be stored in barrels or dry bags, but there’s always room for luxuries like camp chairs and, in our case, the world’s biggest coffee pot. Canoes are also great for families with kids (and/or dogs), as you can easily take them along.

Once fundamental skills have been mastered, you can take a canoe into more places than most kayaks. They can be portaged by individuals across or around sizeable sections of water that can’t be paddled, and you can even sleep in them at the end of a long day, and be lulled off to slumberland by the rocking of the water under a tapestry of stars. Yep. I tried it. It’s awesome.        

Canoe designs

Canoes come in a variety of designs, reflecting the range of intended purposes, from racing to fishing, touring to running rapids. River-touring boats are longer and shallower, with a flatter underside and lower gunwales to reduce wind resistance. They’re faster across flat water, but less responsive and manoeuvrable. Typically, they have better initial stability but poorer secondary stability.

River-running whitewater canoes (as opposed to the tiny C1 boats used in slalom racing and high-volume whitewater) are shorter, have steeper sides and a more pronounced “rocker” (meaning the bottom is curved), which makes them much more manoeuvrable when you’re executing sudden, fast turns to follow a chosen line through a rapid. They tip quite easily, but their secondary stability is good – you just have to trust it.

Different paddles are used for each style of paddling. Whitewater paddles are generally heavier and more solid. They have straight shafts and squarer, wider blades for fast strokes and cranking turns. Touring paddles are longer and lighter, with thinner blades often offset at an angle. Classic variations include ottertail and beavertail-style paddles, which are elongated and can be used with a much smoother cadence. Wood, carbon, plastics and metals are all used, but wooden paddles are favoured for their warmth, flexibility and durability.    

Body positioning & loading your canoe

Where and how you sit in the boat will affect how your canoe performs, how responsive it is, and how it tracks through the water.

“Body. Boat. Blade. That’s my order of priority when I’m teaching students,” says Matt 1.

Get a grip: Grasp the T-grip at the top of the paddle in one hand and the shaft of the paddle in the other, with your elbows slightly bent. Swap hands when you change sides. You can do every stroke needed without ever turning the paddle around and you can make your canoe do almost every manoeuvre without swapping sides. It’s important to keep hold of the grip at all times, especially in rough water, to avoid braining yourself or a fellow paddler.

Keep trim: In a double canoe it’s ideal to have the heavier paddler in the back, otherwise steering can be challenging. When touring with significant amounts of gear and water, distribute the weight appropriately in the boat. Adjusting the “trim” of the boat involves moving the gear in the canoe forward or back to help deal with prevailing natural conditions, such as high winds.

Bum or knees: You can either sit or kneel in the canoe. Kneeling gives you a slightly lower centre of gravity, which helps with stability in rough water, but on longer trips it can be more comfortable to sit. Experienced solo paddlers kneel with their legs together and pointing towards the side of the boat they are paddling on, which helps keep the boat straight and lifts one side of the canoe out of the water (heeling it over) to decrease drag and improve efficiency and speed. Many downriver canoes feature thigh-brace straps that secure kneeling paddlers to the boat to a certain degree, enabling them to use their full-body strength to turn the boat. Accomplished canoeists can even roll their boats.

Go against the flow: When eddying in or dealing with any fast-flowing water, no matter how counter-intuitive it feels, it’s imperative to lean away from the flow of the water so the side of the canoe rises high against the flow – if you lean the other way the water will breach the side of the canoe, swamping and potentially sinking it. 

Canoe safety and self rescue

Always wear a helmet and a personal flotation device (PFD) when paddling in fast-flowing water.  Never enter a rapid blind – always scout it first. Even if you are familiar with a rapid, new and dangerous obstacles may have entered the water since you last paddled it. Learn defensive and aggressive swimming.

Defensive: floating on back, legs downstream, feet up, looking downstream, using arms to direct body angle. Aggressive: floating on stomach, legs downstream, body on surface and angled around 45 degrees to the river current, freestyle swimming technique, looking downstream for any obstacles.  Ready to retreat to defensive position if needed.

If you’re in your canoe and come up hard against an obstacle, such as a rock, lean onto it – don’t push away from it or you’re likely to end up in the drink. If you do end up outside your canoe in moving water then stay upstream of the boat so it can’t pin you to any objects. Grab the end of the canoe that is upstream (hopefully equipped with a swim-line or “painter”) and swim for the bank.  Once on the bank, get a firm footing and hold the rope tightly (do not wrap it around your hands). The canoe should swing downstream into the bank with a pendulum action.

The post Guide to canoeing appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The articles lauded the pair for their superhuman efforts, such as Kilian’s seven hour, 14 min ascent/descent of Mt Kilimanjaro and Lizzy’s recent 319km run from Mount Everest Base Camp to Kathmandu in Nepal.

In Australia, ultra events (anything longer than a marathon) – such as the North Face 100 (NSW), the Cradle Mountain Run (Tasmania), the Tarawera (NZ) and the Routeburn Classic (NZ) – have recorded capacity fields and attracted the likes of Jornet, as well as international media attention.

Also raising trail running’s profile are adventure-run sluggers, such as Beau Miles, who became the first person to run the 660km length of the Australian Alps Walking Track from Canberra to Walhalla, Victoria, and Richard Bowles, who ran the length of the Israel National Trail (1009km in 12 days) in April.

Now trail running is attracting a new crowd to the mountains: road runners. Recreational runners are digging feverishly into their old trekking guides in search of wilderness routes to rediscover on the hoof, sans 18kg backpack.

Short-course trail running events

Shorter, less arduous events are opening up the sport to everyday runners, and those who usually pound the pavement are being tempted to hit the dirt.

The Salomon Trail Running Series in Victoria is a prime example. The annual series consists of four events, from 5km to 21km, held near Melbourne.

“Our events are specifically tailored to be achievable by the average runner,” says event director John Jacoby.

“And we’ve located them all within an hour of an urban centre, so they are accessible, too,” he says, pointing out that many trail-running events are held in the middle of nowhere.

“Which is understandable – part of trail running is about getting into these pristine environments and appreciating them on foot. But we have to provide stepping-stone events.”

In NSW, there is growing interest in Running Wild’s Trail Race Series, which covers distances from 14-20km, and the Sydney Trailrunning Series, run by events company Mountain Sports.

Further north, the Trail Running Association of Queensland backs events such as those run by Glasshouse Trail Runs, many of which have courses as short as 5-10km.

There is the Gold Coast Trail Running Series. In Western Australia, Perth has its own series outings. Tasmania’s Endorfun runs a quartet of short course events at different wilderness locations, including Bruny Island. The South Australian Road Runners Club organises social and competitive runs of varying distances, taking advantage of the Adelaide Hills and longer trails including the Yurrebilla and Heysen.

Where to go trail running

The best trail running is on “single track” hiking trails because they lead into the most pristine and stunning environments. Trail running does, on occasion, encompass running on dirt roads and fire trails, and may sometimes include short stretches of road running to get from one trail to another. Essentially, however, trail running is all about running in beautiful and inspiring parts of the world that remain as Mother Nature intended: untouched and wild.

Serious trail runners are akin to marathon or ultra runners – they train hard, are supremely fit and tackle extreme distances and terrain, sometimes over multiple days.

The environment in which they challenge themselves can also be tough – it may involve high altitudes (think the Himalayas), rough routes off main trails requiring navigation skills, and gradients so steep you’d think you’d need a rope to get up and an elevator to get down.

But that’s at the extreme end. More accessible trail runs mix fun and fitness in milder terrain: winding routes between trees with gentle inclines (if any) on trails that are well-padded, smooth and clutter free. It’s what you’d call a non-technical trail. Technical trails have more clutter underfoot: rocks and roots, big drops, scrambles, scree and the like.

Those after daily exercise might prefer running on trails near suburban areas, while other trail runners spend weeks – or longer – out in the wilderness.

The benefits of trail running

Trail running involves whole body movement. You’re twisting and turning, changing direction constantly, ducking a tree branch, pushing off a rock, taking a big step, then a little one, changing pace, climbing, descending. It demands more from your body in terms of effort and number of muscles used, including core muscles.

The long-term stresses on the body are less than those experienced by road runners who maintain a similar pace and a repetitive motion. The hips, the knees, the ankles, the foot arch bang through exactly the same motion with every step, creating wear and tear on joints and muscles.

When you run trails the angles at which your feet make contact with the earth are always changing, so the impact is broadened and shared between joints and impact zones. That, combined with a strengthening of other muscles while trail running, results in less wear and tear overall.

Dirt and grass are softer than bitumen and concrete. Hence the sheer force exerted on joints is less, as the ground provides some cushioning. Again, when considered over the hundreds of thousands of foot-strikes we’re talking about, the cumulative benefit is huge.

And did we mention the view?

Trail running techniques

The key is to stay light and nimble on your feet – as though you are floating over the terrain, landing, then springing off it again.

Resist the tendency to favour one leg over the other. A lot of runners start using one leg as the “plant” leg to land heavily on and the other as the “drive” or “push-off” leg. Each leg should do these actions interchangeably.

Downhills: Run on the balls – not heels – of your feet. This means less pounding, more speed and greater control.

Uphills: Shorten your stride, keep your head up and chest forward: imagine a string pulling you upwards through the top of your head. Run relaxed and try to find a rhythm that will take you up and over each hill with relative ease. Some trail runners don’t run up severe inclines – you waste energy trying to bound up and don’t necessarily go any faster than if you power walked.

Corners: Cornering technique is akin to that used on a mountain bike. Turn your core (point your belly button) before you get into the corner and look where you want to go, ahead on the trail, past the corner (not at the corner apex). This technique is particularly useful for tight corners and hairpins. Use berms, as you would on a bike, to harness momentum.

Streams: Don’t be afraid to run right through a stream, having wet feet is part of trail running.

Obstacles: If you come across a log or rock no more than shin to knee height, don’t leap over (you may misjudge it and trip). Rather, without breaking stride, place your foot on top of the obstacle, but don’t push down with all your weight. Keep the foot contact as light as possible, so it guides you in a controlled leap over the obstacle.

Trail conditions

Different trails throw up different obstacles. Here are a few tips for navigating them.

Forest paths: Beautiful as they are, they can also be covered with leaves that hide tripping hazards such as rocks, roots and holes. Forested areas also tend to retain moisture, so trails can be slick. Pay close attention to foot placement.

Mud: It’s fun for some, but an annoyance for others. Mud means there’s a greater chance of slipping and mud tends to stick to your shoes, making them heavy. So look closely and react. Shiny mud is invariably wet and liable to suck you in. Mud with a dull appearance is usually firmer and faster to run on.

Rocky terrain: Step lively, using a higher leg lift to avoid tripping. Concentrate hard and place feet carefully to avoid twisting your ankle. Better to slow down than to rush and roll an ankle.

Sand: Never easy to run on, especially when the sand is dry and loose. Experienced runners often flit down a sandy trail, bounding from one line to another (as opposed to running in a straight line), searching for firm footing. Look for hard-packed sand – often someone else’s footprint – or try to go for the edge of the trail.

Training for trail running

Resistance and gym training can be good for the trail. Focus on high reps on lower weights, doing exercises that strengthen core muscles and larger muscles like your quads and hamstrings.

Developing quad and glute strength through weight training and cycling (stationary or mountain bike) will give you more uphill power and strength late in the race. Also, you’ll strengthen ligaments and muscles around your knee.

Step-ups with weights are good for trails where there are lots of big steps. Some squats and knee raises are also good for general strengthening, helping your leg control for heavy landings.

In cycle training, mimic running motion by standing up. Mountain biking is also a great way to scout out new trails.

Trail running links

General forum: www.mountainrunning.coolrunning.com.au
Kiwi inspiration by adventure runner Mal Law: www.runningwildnz.com
For the long-distance runners: www.aura.asn.au
Trail info in Queensland: www.glasshousetrails.com.au
Road runners but with a serious trail-running community: www.sarrc.asn.au
Queensland trails: www.runtrails.org
Best trail-running event calendar: www.adventurerace.com.au
Trail-running lifestyle magazine: www.trailrunmag.com

The post Guide to trail running appeared first on Australian Geographic.

We drove to a beginner’s crag near our home in the Grampians and at the base of the cliff he spent 10 minutes taking me through the basics of belaying and knots, before tethering my skinny frame to a tree and climbing up the cliff.

Soon after he pulled over onto the summit, I heard the call from the top for me to climb – and for the first time felt the rope tugging at my harness.

By the time I’d struggled to the top, dragged myself onto the ledge with my dad, my limbs battered and scratched but feeling supremely happy, I knew I was going to be a climber.

Rock climbing is often assumed to be an “extreme” sport, and climbers are often happy to perpetuate this image (particularly around attractive members of the opposite sex). But I’ll tell you a secret: it’s really not that dangerous. The perception of climbing as extreme is mostly just that, perception.

While there are climbers who live dangerously, the majority are not daredevils risking their lives at every turn, they are people like me, with wives (actually, just the one) and kids, who climb with a high concern for safety.

This is not to say climbing isn’t scary or without risks, but for those who dare the rewards are great.

Climbing is a unique mix of the mental and the physical and, best of all, it takes place in some of the most rugged and beautiful parts of the planet.

Rock climbing basics

When I first began climbing, there were really only two ways to learn: you either had to know a climber willing to teach you or you did a beginner’s course with a club or instructor. These days it is much easier. Indoor climbing gyms are an excellent (and cheap) way to try climbing and learn basic skills before venturing outdoors.

The safe and controlled environment of a gym is also the perfect place to take children. Best of all, kids take to climbing indoors with all the natural aptitude and fearlessness they bring to climbing trees.

On your first visit to an indoor climbing gym, it’s important to go with a partner, someone who can hold your safety rope. After you have signed the necessary waiver forms, a staff member will lead an “induction”, teaching you the basics of climbing safely in the gym.

For beginners, there are usually two climbing options. The first and most common is to “top-rope” – this is where the rope goes up from the attached climber to a pulley at the top of the wall and then back down to your belayer (the person who locks the rope off if you fall). This way you always have a rope above you.

The second option is to go “bouldering”, which is basically unroped climbing but on very short walls above crash mats, and usually with a “spotter”, someone who makes sure you land safely on the mat. Bouldering is a great way of getting strong without worrying about ropes or climbing on your own.

However, for first-timers, top-roping is the best way to learn – bouldering tends to be harder, whereas most gyms will have a bunch of easy climbs for beginners. It is always better to build your technique on easy routes rather than things that are too hard for you.

As part of your induction you will be taught one of climbing’s most important skills: to “belay” – to hold the climber’s safety rope and slow their descent should they fall. The belayer uses a special friction device that the rope runs through. When locked off, it makes holding the falling climber easy. The belayer’s role is very important – they hold your life in their hands – so they need to be someone you trust.

You will also be taught how to attach yourself safely to the rope. Most gyms use two attachments – a screwgate carabiner (a locking clip) and a knot, usually a figure-of-eight (which is one of the safest and most important climbing knots).

The third part of any induction is communication. Before leaving the ground, the climber and belayer should double-check each other’s attachments, then the climber should announce they are “climbing” and the belayer that they are “on belay” – so each person is clear about what is happening. As the climber moves up the wall, the belayer takes in the rope, removing all the slack.

When the climber gets to the top of the wall, the belayer lowers him back to the ground (it is a bit like abseiling, but the descent is controlled by the belayer). Then they can swap roles.

Learning to lead climb 

Once you have built up climbing experience, there is one more type of climbing to learn: “lead” climbing. Leading differs from top-roping in that you leave the ground trailing the rope and clip it into carabiners attached to safety points as you move up the wall – so, unlike top-roping, you don’t have a rope above you at all times.This means the potential for falling further is much greater.

Lead climbing requires both climber and belayer possess a lot more skill and judgement (and expert tuition). Leading is the main way people climb outdoors.

The benefits of indoor rock climbing

The great thing about indoor climbing is that, once you have done your induction, you can top-rope as much as you like without any further instruction, whereas outdoor climbing is a lot more involved and equipment intensive.

However, if you enjoy climbing in a gym then you need to head outdoors, because the difference between climbing indoors and outdoors is like the difference between eating at McDonalds or a five-star restaurant. Everything is better – from the environment to the rock itself, which provides movement and positions that can never be mimicked indoors.

Best of all, Australia is home to some of the best climbing on the planet, from Mt Arapiles and the Grampians in western Victoria, to the rugged sandstone plateaus of the Blue Mountains and Tasmania’s dolerite pillars.

Getting started with outdoor climbing

Once you have decided to try outdoor climbing, the most important thing is to find suitable instruction. If you are lucky, you might know someone with the skills to teach you, but generally the best option is a professional instructor.

Everything about climbing outdoors is more complex, from the risks to the safety skills and equipment to the climbing itself. Proper instruction is essential. You can learn a lot from reading books and watching videos online, but there is no substitute for hands-on learning with an expert.

When you go outdoors with instructors, you have a few options.

One is to just try it by doing a day’s climbing. This will usually mean heading out to a cliff where your instructors will set up top-ropes for you – a similar set-up to an indoor gym – then you will climb a bunch of routes. This is a great way to experience climbing.

However, if you are keen to learn the skills to go outdoors yourself then you need to do a course. You’ll need to learn, at the very least, to set up top-ropes yourself, but preferably how to lead climb.

This means you will have to master placing “protection” (such as wedges or camming devices placed in cracks, or slings over bollards). Climbers use these to create safe anchors for their ropes.

You’ll also need to acquire good and safe judgement, learn the basic knots and rope-work skills, and master advanced belaying skills and climbing techniques.

Once you have these basic skills, the vertical world will begin to open up – and it is incredible.

Climbing is full of powerful experiences far removed from the everyday. Up on the wall, you are on your own, yet connected to your partner by the rope. You are out in the wild, up high, exposed to the elements, not to mention the roller-coaster of emotions – fear, elation, desperation, relief. You can feel it all on one climb.

When a climb begins, all distractions drop away and you are powerfully in the moment – and that alone is a precious freedom.

Key tips for successful rock climbing

When I worked in a busy climbing gym, every so often we would see the classic couple – muscle-bound boyfriend and slender girlfriend – come in to try climbing for the first time. Without fail, the boyfriend would try to haul his way up using his arms – failing miserably every time – while the girlfriend, lacking the big, showy muscles, would often succeed because she climbed smarter and used her legs.

It’s a good illustration that climbing is a complex activity. Climbing is as much about mental strength and technique as it is physical strength. Here are a few tips to make it easier.

Warm up: Before you do anything, warm up carefully – climbing uses a lot of muscles that most people rarely stress in everyday life. If you go too hard too soon, not only do you risk hurting yourself, but you will get what climbers call a “flash pump” – your forearms will fill with lactic acid, blighting the rest of your session. Ease into it gently with some very easy climbing and you will be able to have a much more productive session.

Use your legs: Your legs are strong – much stronger than your arms. If you can, keep as much weight on your feet as possible and you will be able to climb harder and for longer. With that in mind, place your feet carefully on the best holds and remember, when you get stuck, the first thing you should try to do is move your feet to a higher hold. This will allow you to reach higher for new handholds.

Straight arms: Instinct might tell you to pull up on holds with bent elbows, but each time you do you are asking your muscles to recruit (and tiring them out). If you can keep your arms straight then you are utilising your skeleton more than your muscles and you will tire less. The straight-arm technique works best on steep ground where you can twist your entire torso to reach up to the next hold.

Breathe: It’s remarkable how simple this one is, but a lot of people hold their breath when they climb – like most things, climbing is much easier when you breathe.

Different types of rock climbers

Mountaineering: Mountaineers like to climb snow, ice and rock in alpine environments. Among climbers, they are known for their masochistic penchant for suffering in bitterly cold places, with little to eat or wear.

Traditional climbing: Trad climbers use the natural features of the rock – cracks and weaknesses – to place safety protection on the ascent, which can be removed later without damaging the rock. Trad climbers have a reputation for being daggy.

Sport climbing: Unlike trad climbers, sport climbers use pre-placed and permanently installed safety protection, usually in the form of bolts sunk into the rock. Sport climbers fancy themselves as being at the cutting edge of difficulty.

Boulderers: Boulderers climb just that, boulders, usually with portable crash mats or pads to land on. They tend to be strong but simple creatures.

Soloing: Soloing (climbing unroped) divides climbers into those who think it’s madness and those who can understand the lure of such joy and freedom.

Deep-water soloing (DWS): Soloing with less risk? Climbing above deep water, such as an ocean, river or lake, from a floating base (usually boat), DWS is the newcomer on the scene and is a relatively safe way to climb without a rope [just make sure you have your water landing technique nailed beforehand]. Generally, the worst you can expect if you fall off is a saltwater enema.

The post Rock Climbing basics appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Survival skills: staying warm and sheltered

Being a well-prepared bushwalker you are already wearing lightweight, long-sleeved, sun-protective clothing. You have a fleece packed, and a raincoat, but could also easily improvise these items from plastic bags, and layers of clothing stuffed with grasses or leaves. Evening will soon approach, and while you have your signal tools hanging from tree branches, an SOS signal set-up, three small triangular fires burning, water transpiration bags on trees, and all the water you could gather from the car, including the windscreen wiping water, you will soon want a shelter.

In constructing your shelter – as in all survival activities – keep an energy output-for-benefit ratio in mind and make smart decisions. Do not build in the heat of the day for example, when physical exertion will mean maximum fluid loss through sweat. Where possible, identify where natural formations such as rock shelters already exist for your use. Conversely, make the effort to construct as good a shelter as possible earlier in your experience rather than later – not only will it keep you more comfortable, but you must allow that you may not sustain your initial energy levels as days and possibly weeks pass.

The urgency of creating warmth will depend on your environment, but in all cases, staying warm is not only physically central, but psychologically important. Increase the benefits of a fire by constructing a heat-reflective shelter with a space blanket or tarp, or by using fire-baked rocks to bury under a sleeping ground-space.

Survival skills: hunt and gather

As you eat the last of your Vegemite sandwiches thinking of the burger roadhouse you passed 250 km ago, you can be comforted by the fact that according to Bob Cooper’s studies, nobody in Australia has ever died from hunger in a survival situation. Bob has been conducting wilderness survival courses since 1980, and to the vast number of outdoor people less ignorant than me, he is Australia’s premier survivalist.

Contrary to popular belief, the body can withstand many weeks without food, as opposed to the days that it may not survive without water. In warmer environments, food should be the last priority on your list of survival concerns. In colder situations however, where the body requires calories to burn for warmth, some food is required to keep the home fires burning.

Ration the food you have available to you, and if possible, avoid dry and dense foods until you have sufficient water to assist with their digestion. When it comes to relying on the wilderness for food, you are left with two approaches; hunting or gathering.

Most methods of hunting, no matter how refined, are likely to require the expenditure of a large amount of energy. Fishing is an exception however, being easy to improvise, with hooks, lures and baits from rubbish, food, and all manner of random objects. It can be practised at different times of the day and night, and can be left to a ‘sleeper line’ while you are busy or resting.

Bob’s course teaches how to gather seeds, roots and other edible plant matter in the bush, as well as how to apply universal poison indicator tests to potential foods. He teaches the poison indicators that apply to plant leaves, roots and seeds, and on our course spent a whole morning walking our group through the scrub of Dwellingup, where in a one kilometre radius he identified and discussed no less than 20 plant varieties to provide all manner of foods, antiseptics, soaps, strings and fluids, passing on many of the skills learnt from his time spent with Indigenous people of Australia and Africa.

Survival skills: travel by the stars

You are feeling confident. You have several water collection methods on the go. Your signalling tripods and messages are loud and clear, the Queen CDs are swinging gaily in the sun. You have added a patio extension to your shelter, and you have such an over-abundance of edible plant seeds that you are considering setting up a market stall. It occurs to you that it may be time to have a look around. The map you are carrying shows the road you are on, and a parallel larger road 20 km due east which is likely to carry more traffic. You are aware that once you are mobile, all of your five concerns (water, signalling, shelter, warmth and food) will require new solutions. Above all, you are conscious of not wanting to lose the direction home to your cosy campsite, or direction at all. Just how rusty is your nav?

There are a number of methods for finding your bearings in the bush, during both the day and night. By far the simplest method is to observe the movement of the sun. At any time of the day, stand a stick or pointed object upright in the ground so that it casts a shadow. Mark the tip of the stick’s shadow with a stone. Wait 10-15 minutes and mark the end of the stick’s shadow at its new position. Now draw a line between the first and second markings to gain an east-west bearing. Estimate a perpendicular line through the east-west line to find your north-south bearing.

After only three days on Bob’s course, in a group of people whose nav skills ranged from good to non-existent, every member of our team was able to travel at 283º within two degrees, using the sun-and-stick-method. We did a similar exercise at night using the stars, with equally satisfying results. By the end of our short course, every student had the skills to comfortably use a map and compass, refer to map grid references, and travel specific distances through dense scrub in complete darkness.

Survival skills: Carry a survival kit

You have packed your bag with all the water you can carry, all the tools you think you will need and have left a detailed note of your intentions with your car. You are about to travel into scrub in the direction of your clearly-marked ground arrow and are excited to finally be doing some bushwalking! You have everything you will need to survive, and you know this, because you are carrying Bob Cooper’s Mark III Mini Survival Kit.

The product of a life of survival expertise, Bob’s latest survival kit is designed to cope with any bush survival situation; in the tropics, desert or even at sea. Every item has been selected with extraordinary care, and Bob himself has lived from the kit alone for weeks in the Pilbara region in Western Australia.

Survival skills: Lessons learned

• Control your emotional responses, and be aware of negativity, fear and despair.
• Think before you act, and act with purpose, even if the purpose is to lift the spirits.
• Carry water everywhere. Drink lots, all the time, and then drink some more.
• Be aware of the tools and resources around you and of how everything – even waste items – can have a multitude of uses.
• The body does not need large amounts of complex foods to be perfectly satisfied.
• If you are going to communicate something important, do it efficiently and with care.
• Do not assume anything of other people orsituations.
• Think creatively in your problem solving.
• Be aware of the provisions of the natural world, and appreciate the sustainability of what can be taken from the earth. Respect your surroundings.
• Keep a positive attitude in all things – it can conquer the seemingly impossible.

The post Wilderness survival skills: how to thrive in the bush appeared first on Australian Geographic.

How these two key features combine is the key to comfort – and the durability of your pack. The pack harness needs to fit you perfectly when fully loaded. A harness system will offer size adjustment, and varying degrees of padding in key areas, such as the waist belt and shoulder straps. Straps above the shoulder strap can be adjusted to bring the pack closer to your upper body (for when walking uphill), then be relaxed for when walking on flat surfaces or downhill.

The waist harness will have similar straps for cinching the pack in snug. Your lower torso/back is where most of the load should be, so ensure the waist belt is comfortable and adjustable. Most manufacturers offer specific packs for women.

In regards to the frame: most large trekking packs have internal aluminium frames. These are designed to support the load and direct the weight to the wearer’s load-bearing areas.

Backpack materials

Most modern packs utilise synthetic fabrics but there are still canvas packs available. The benefit of “old school” canvas is its durability. Today’s canvas packs are not as heavy as their predecessors (weight is one of the material’s negatives) and are treated with durable water repellent (DWR) for water-resistance – important, as canvas absorbs moisture so does get heavy when wet.

Synthetic packs used to be frowned upon because of perceived fragility, but this is not the case today; synthetic packs are robust enough for years of abuse. Some packs combine both materials – canvas is used in high-wear areas.

Backpack design

Harness systems come in varying degrees of complexity, from the simple shoulder harness and waist belt combo through to a harness system that can be personally configured to the user, with methods including heating the harness so it “moulds” to your waist/body for an exact fit. Other designs include climbing packs that may double as trekking packs (depending on your intentions and budget).

These packs often have extra gear loops, which can be handy or a hindrance. The shape of a pack is a defining feature: tall and narrow allows for squeezing through narrow places but can mean the pack towers above your head, which can disturb the balance of it on your back. Wide and short may allow more free head movement but cause problems when negotiating said narrow terrain.

Other design features include a separately accessible bottom section(s) for storage of bulky items such as a sleeping bag. The disadvantage of this is the zip becomes a potential water ingress point. Speaking of zips – none are fully waterproof and you cannot rely on pack covers as they don’t fully protect your pack’s vulnerable areas, such as seams around the harness, etc. The best bet is to always pack your gear in a dry-bag/garbage bag inside your pack.

Packs that offer additional load capacity (often written as +10, to describe an extra 10 litres of space) are handy, especially if they can be cinched smaller for day/overnight walks.

Buying a backpack

Try as many backpacks as possible. Ensure you load each one with the same gear you would take on a multi-day trek. An easier alternative is to ask in-store; some retailers have ‘dummy loads’ that replicate certain pack weights that you can load in the pack you’re trying on.

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I just couldn’t get my head around how you could go bush on foot with nippers in the mix.

They are, after all, the biggest vortexes of time and energy in the known universe. Now with two in our household, it takes an extra hour and a semi-trailer full of gear just to take them to swimming lessons at the local pool.

The thought of packing them up and taking them bush for days exhausts me more than the Western Arthurs Traverse ever could. I am wrong, of course.

How to trek with kids

The key here is your mental approach. First off, think it can be done. Second, get excited about it, rather than sweating over the organisational details.

Kids (the ones old enough to walk and talk, at least) love adventure. The grander the scale, the better.

You’ll be surprised – the younger they are, the more adaptable they are. With a bit of preparation, my bet is that you’ll whinge before they will.

So, as a positive parent, there are a few key things to think of.

How old are they? Old enough to walk or will you be carrying them?

If they can walk, keep in mind that they can’t cover the distances you can and they won’t be able to carry the pound-for-pound weight that you would. So keep distances short, and pack weights minimal.

That means you have to plan your own pack weight carefully, as you’ll be carrying for them and you.

Ease them in with a trip that has a base camp from where you can do numerous day hikes.

Generally, for a 10-year-old and older, you can get them through 8-10 km safely, depending on the terrain difficulty, although this can vary greatly according to the individual child.

The best rule of thumb is a child can generally walk their age and carry half of it. For example, a 10-year-old should comfortably carry 5 kg and walk 10 km.

Kids in the field

In the field, a good indicator is the ‘whine factor’. If your child is complaining a lot and looks distressed, they probably are.

Another good gauge is your own body. If you’re even slightly weathered, your children probably started fading a long time ago.

Increase the distance a child can cover by preparing an interesting route with frequent stops. Stops at formations, waterfalls, rivers, historic sites and caves all break up the trip.

Set up camp early in the afternoon. Don’t drag out the day. Start early, finish early and then let the kids do what they do naturally: play.
 
Fun. Fun. Fun. Games such as I Spy can keep the child’s mind occupied while walking. Interesting them with bits of bush knowledge, even make believe.

Silent, meditative walking is great as an adult but boring for kids, who need mental stimulation as much as physical.

If your kids are too young to walk, gear logistics become even more pertinent, remembering that if you have a child on your back, you’ll have less room for camping gear.

And other adults on the trek will have to bear more of your load. Safety is always important but even more so when you have children.
 
First-aid kits are a must, and ensure you bring along extra supplies of any medicines they require – you do not want to get caught out with an asthmatic child sans inhaler.

Keep the food fun.  Include treats and remember that energy requirements will be huge for children.

Don’t ‘make do’ in the gear stakes. Outfit kids with the same or better outdoor clothing you wear, and ensure it fits.

Initiate them to the outdoors early through scouts and outdoor camps at school.

Responsibility, believe it or not, is a great motivator for kids, so teach them the skills when you can and work your way to letting them lead sometimes or to making camp decisions, under your final say, of course.

If heading to higher ground, be aware that children don’t acclimatise as quickly as adults, so be aware of them feeling any uncomfortableness above 2000 m.

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“This is making a conscious decision to observe your setting constantly. Years and years of day-to-day observations linking conditions to trends. A certain wind, for example, with a particular set/level of cloud, may be a precursor to a storm front.

“To observe this is one thing, and we all do this, but moving towards more effective decision-making as a result of what is happening around you is this conscious process of logging the observations into categorical platforms. Of course, backing this up with a field guide, manuals and local [expert] advice is just as important.”

Basic skills for trekking

Beau notes that today, most people are poor navigators, yet the skill of navigation should be a central pillar of any trekker’s set of bush skills.

“Many people are poor navigators for a lot of reasons – primarily because of a reliance on sat-nav GPS, superhighways and high-spec maps – and we don’t tend to make observations in the moment,” says Beau. “People tend to only think a few steps ahead. This is detrimental to finding your way (and back) as the time and place of the route is lost in the jumble of the day, rather than the sequential unfolding of the terrain, day and time.

“My students so often say, ‘I think we are here’. I scorn this. They should say: ‘We are here and this is why,’ and then provide evidence. There should be no grey areas in navigation.”

More specific skills, like rope-work, require simple repetition, but, importantly, while in situ.

“Famously, a knot is said to need a thousand ties before it’s committed to memory,” says Beau. “We teach our students half a dozen, highly used knots in parks, treed areas on campus, on canoe trailers and roof racks; anywhere but in the classroom. The learning points, therefore, take on contextual reason.”

Other skills that are important to master include:

Camp setting: There is an art. You need to know how to spot a good setting for your tent (and how to avoid a bad or dangerous one) along with the basics of where each functional area (sleeping, cooking, cleaning, personal hygiene) should be located in relation to each other and with due reference to leave-no-trace principles.

Camp cooking: Good, tasty and nutritious food is important in maintaining energy levels and morale. Know the best ingredients and food types to take with a pre-prepared meal plan. Mix up the types of meals as much as possible and learn tips and tricks for creating tasty meals.

Also, remember a few treats, like dessert (can be as simple as chocolate) and tea/coffee.

Survival: Books have been written about it and ignored at the peril of everyone who enters the unpredictable realm of Mother Nature. Read up and practise the basics, at least. Better still, do a course, starting with Wilderness First Aid. Ignore any program with Bear Grylls in it.

Leadership: This one can only be learned through experience and time spent in the bush with other respected and skilled leaders. But be mindful when out there with such people to take notes, mental or otherwise. One day it may be you who needs to step up to the plate and make decisions for your party.

As Baden Powell trained them in cubs: Be prepared.

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Prior preparation and planning prevents poor performance, as the (sanitised) quip goes, and it’s about as solidly truthful a cliche as you’ll find when it comes to trekking.

Planning your trek

One man who knows a thing or two about planning for outdoor adventures (he teaches it) is Beau Miles, an academic for the Bachelor of Sport and Outdoor Recreation program at Monash University and a guide with 12 years’ experience.

“The old credo, ‘an overnight takes as much planning as 20 nights, the only thing that changes is food’, is pretty much a rule of truth,” says Beau.

“All contingencies that need to be in place for a single night carry over to longer journeys. Maps, guidebooks and the internet are the obvious starting points [for planning a trek], but people are key to often the most useful information.

“Guidebooks and maps date the moment they are printed, and while comprehensive, lack the day-to-day adjustments that can occur [management, laws, boundaries, ownership]. Ultimately, there is always a resource of people that have the deepest and most thorough understanding of most places we venture.”

Beau also suggests good reconnaissance: “Recce trips in the area, or in similar terrain, are a good way to iron out needs and you should always be realistic with distance when locking in campsites.

People too often over-estimate their [group’s] ability – 95 per cent of the time a group only really travels at the pace of the slowest member. If, for example, you are walking for five days, allow day three to be a down day, or easy walking – maybe a side trip or fishing day, something different and restorative.”

Group cohesion is important, says Beau, “as people need to be on the same page. Communicating all trip information as comprehensively as possible is paramount.”

Trek planning revision

Other planning points to revise, but in more comprehensive fashion than we have space to go into here include:

Route: Know it intimately. Study it on the best and most up to date maps available. Look for possible points of confusion so you are aware as you approach them in the field.

Weather: Know before you go. What’s it supposed to be like? And given weather bods are the only people on Earth to get paid for being correct 50 per cent of the time, know what it could be like by studying the region’s weather pattern extremes.

If you’re carrying satellite technology, check the weather regularly en route. If not, learn the basic signs to look for in the field that tell you what weather is coming at you, meaning, know your cloud types and what they mean.

Food supplies: Unless you’re an absolute pro and/or know how to live off the land, food is the one thing you should overpack. You want to know that you have extra rations should you get caught out for an extra day or so.

A rudimentary knowledge of the wild food in the area you are trekking wouldn’t hurt either, even if it’s just what berries and mushrooms to avoid and what ones are safe to eat.

Water: Never assume that watercourses will be safe to drink from. Always carry some form of water purification. The best alternative is to harvest from the sky, so learn how to do that most efficiently. Allow for extra rations all the time and don’t scrimp.

Gear: Have the correct gear for the environment you are trekking through, including the appropriate safety stash for the most likely accidents. Always, always take gear for foul weather; that way you won’t have to use it (Murphy’s Law).

Communication and safety: Always trek with a personal locator beacon a mobile phone and perhaps a set of small two-way radios in case you need to separate from your party to, say, get water or help.

Contingency plans: Having studied the route, know what your contingency plans are: Where you can get out of the wilderness at various stages en route; where the best evacuation points may be; and make plans (and ensure your entire party knows what those plans are) to deal with potential accidents or eventualities.

Notification of intentions: Always sign in where there is a walkers’ registry at the trail head or a nearby ranger or police station, and ensure friends or family back home know what the trek plan is and when they should press the panic button.

If travelling overseas: Remember the typical aircraft restrictions (no gas canisters, remember to stash your knives and various bush ointments in your main hold luggage, not take on) and be sure to know local customs laws and cultural norms where you are trekking. Getting caught taking a leak against the wrong tree in some places could land you in serious trouble or have a local rural dweller up in arms.

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Well, before you and all that fancy new gear of yours heads off to tackle the Great Himalayan highways with nary a warm-up walk under your wilderness knife-bearing belt, there are a few tricks of the trekking trade worth considering before you take to the trail, some of which may just mean a little less pain and a lot more pleasure.

Getting started with trekking

Unless you were brought up by dingos, have the last name of Irwin/Grylls/Douglas, or you had a seriously rural upbringing, then the thought of stepping ever further into the wild may prick your self-preservation radar.

Perfect. That sense is the most important thing you need to lug into the bush. It’ll keep you alive. Everything else is just acclimatisation and skilling up.

Remember that people who rush into the forest all bolshie like because they’ve been pumped up by a few episodes of Man vs Wild end up dead. Baby steps, people. Baby steps will get you to Everest, if that’s where you want to go. So, if you are new to the trekking scene ease yourself in.

Joining a bushwalking club

These are great places to start your outdoor odyssey, allowing you to be surrounded by trekkers more experienced and knowledgeable than you. You’ll learn from their members while enjoying the safety-in-numbers factor.

Clubs publicise walk programs well in advance and welcome prospective members. Some clubs have equipment for hire. Bushwalking Australia’s (www.bushwalkingaustralia.org) State bodies have a network of nearly 200 clubs, so there is bound to be one that will suit you.

“Bushwalking clubs offer a non-threatening environment where a beginner can learn the skills needed, and build fitness and confidence to walk in some really interesting places,” says David Reid, Bushwalking Australia president, who notes that people signing up aren’t always newbies.

“There is a proportion of experienced people who are just getting back into walking after a lull in activity as well as those who want to make new social contacts with outdoors people and those of similar interests.”

Research what types of treks you want to do

Guided or independent? Local or overseas? Single day or multi day? Leisure bushwalk or more taxing altitude mountain trek? There’s a plethora of inspiration online and more guided trek operators than you can shake your walking stick at.

Choose a trek well within your limits to begin with and perhaps undertake a walk with a focus – you love birds, so a wetland walk in season may be the go.

Tour companies such as World Expeditions and Peregrine offer all styles of treks both locally and abroad for all levels of experience, including for families.

For a guide to independent walking in Australia, start at your local guidebook outlet or peruse.

Day treks: best for beginners

Begin on well-marked trails early in the day. This allows you to gauge your performance – your walking speed, your fitness level and your confidence in the bush.

It’s tempting for an enthusiastic beginner to go too far and too fast, too late in the day. If you leave no room for error it is easy to get into trouble – including an unplanned overnight stay. Regularly observe landmarks to refer back to should you become disoriented. 

Trekking: make use of national parks

Most have well-marked trails with sign-in books or ranger stations. Even though you’re starting in sometimes well-tramped areas, they are protected parks for good reason: The geography and views encountered are always worth the walk and there are usually both short and longer trail options.

Here’s more information from the government’s national parks site.

Trekking: knowing the weather

Before heading off, check the day’s and the week’s forecast for the specific locality you’re hiking in and the region in general so you know what to expect and what clothing and gear to take.

Also, research the idiosyncratic weather patterns of the area – predictable onslaughts of strong westerlies in the afternoon or low-lying fog in the mornings, for instance. For Aussie weather, his the BOM (Bureau of Meterology).

Trekking: beginners’ navigation courses

Knowing your way around a map, compass and, secondarily, a GPS, is the bedrock of trekking safely and confidently.

The Australian School of Mountaineering offers a full range of navigation courses and each state bushwalking association can help with local courses through a variety of outdoor providers.

Trekking: make sure to break in your gear

 Ensure it is correctly fitted to you, tested and ‘broken in’. And know how all your gear operates. It’s no good figuring out how that stove or tent works for the first time in the pitch black in -2 degrees Celsius.

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Nothing tells the story of where you’ve been better than the images you bring back with you. A great travel or adventure photograph grabs our attention. It stops us in our tracks and for a moment transports us to another place.

Whether it is a beautiful landscape, a striking portrait or a sporting moment frozen in time, it is for these shots we all strive as photographers, but as professionals and amateurs alike, only rarely do we succeed.

The advent of digital photography and today’s prevalence of affordable digital SLR cameras ensures more people have the capability to capture an inspiring photo. The only question is how to gain the creative skills, aptitude and dedication to make it happen. First we need to understand the basics of what makes a great travel or adventure photo.

East Africa-based adventure writer and photographer Nathan Ward reveals travel photography is about finding the image within its natural setting. “Find big scenery and local colour. Ideally something without a westerner in it! The world isn’t about a photo of some blonde person in their new Patagonia gear standing next to Tsaatan reindeer herders. The story is about the reindeer herders. Show the world and all its magic,” he says.

Finding the image within its natural setting is individual and we all differ in our visual perspective, however when it comes to releasing the shutter, the basic ingredients to attention-grabbing pictures has remained the same since the inception of photography; thoughtful composition, creative lighting and an interesting subject.

Travel and adventure photography is no exception; however, the photographer must do all this within the confines of air travel today: limited space and weight, language barriers, security clearances, visas… the list goes on. In reality, the everyday challenges are what travel and adventure photography is all about. The fun part is the process of documenting the journey along the way. The actual taking of photos is the final piece of the jigsaw.

Photography equipment

Ansell Adams created some of the most awe-inspiring landscape photography of last century, using an awkward and heavy 5×4″ camera. However had you given him a box brownie, his imagery is likely to still have exuded the magical qualities that made him so famous.

The camera is simply a tool… but the right tool for the job makes life a lot easier for everybody. For the budding adventure/travel photographer the digital compact, prosumer compact, prosumer DSLR (digital single lens reflex) or professional DSLR are all options, however, in my experience, the mid-level professional DSLR camera is your best option.

The mid-level pro-models allow complete manual control over all features, interchangeable lenses, add-on accessories and great image quality while remaining manageable in size and weight. They also have more weather sealing and are more durable than their smaller and lighter prosumer siblings while the heavier, robust high-end professional DSLR are a hefty and expensive item to have in your pack.

Just as important as the camera, if not more so, are quality lenses. The clarity, sharpness, detail, contrast and colour saturation of your images all begin with good-quality lenses. Start with entry-level zooms, and as soon as you can afford it, purchase a good piece of glass. Fixed focal-length lenses such as the 20 mm or 50 mm are the sharpest and most trouble free due to limited moving parts.

Ideally we would always shoot on these beautiful pieces of optical genius, however for travel and adventure photography, carrying 10 different lenses simply isn’t an option.

Fortunately technology now offers some amazing zoom lenses. High-end zoom lenses (usually notable by their f/2.8 aperture) are super fast and super sharp professional lenses that offer the best image quality of all zooms. But they are larger and heavier than the prosumer super-zoom lenses and tend to limit the zoom ratio to increase speed, sharpness and clarity.

On the other hand super-zoom lenses such as the AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II offer a massive range of focal lengths in a single compact lens while still retaining exceptional clarity. These lenses are generally not as good in low light and the autofocus is notably slower than high-end lenses. Advancements such as Nikon’s VR (vibration reduction) and Canon’s IS (image stabilisation) now compensate for this.

With size and weight limitations often the determining factor for the adventure photographer who is trying to squeeze equipment in among hiking boots, sleeping bag and jackets, the mid-range pro-DSLR with a single super-zoom lens is often the best option. The next step is to pack your bags.

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You delve into your hastily loaded pack, glancing at the surrounds and wondering if life could be any better. Then you reel in horror – your hand hits a wet patch, deep in what should be dry territory. You delve further, only to find a soaking sleeping-bag.

The culprit is a cracked water bottle. It will be a long, cold night. The cardboard packaging that houses the rice you had planned to eat for dinner is also wet and has created a soggy mess down one side of your pack. You sit to compose your thoughts and remove your boots – a lace snaps.

To top it off, as the sun disappears and the cold silence of the evening engulfs you, you can’t remember where you packed your head torch, the ignition on your new stove is not working and the only matches you have are also wet. What should have been a magical evening has turned into an uncomfortable affair.

What lessons could be learnt from those who have experienced such wild and unforeseen moments for years? Those who walk often develop habits and routines through extensive experience; handy tips that most often remain a mystery to us mere mortals. Here, the experts impart their wisdom.

1. CHECKLISTS, CHECKLISTS, CHECKLISTS!
Handy checklists are part of every experienced walker’s pre-trip routine. Leaving behind a vital piece of equipment could prove uncomfortable at the very least, and life-threatening at worst. Seasoned walkers have a master checklist that they update for each outing. A good checklist is vital to ensure you have all the equipment required and, finally, to ensure all the equipment actually gets packed. Question how important each piece of equipment is to the trip and justify its carriage before loading it – this is a good habit to get into. 

* Create an equipment checklist and a separate food checklist with the trip menu.
* Start the food list by breaking down the trip into individual meals. For example, on a five-day trip you may require four breakfasts, five lunches, four dinners and 10 snack breaks. The menu and a list of ingredients are then created.  
* Once you have a master list of ingredients and foodstuffs it is a good idea to calculate weights and amounts required for your group or your individual needs. Update your master list each trip.

2. DIY DEHYDRATION
A sure sign that someone is hitting the bush regularly is a food dehydrator in the kitchen cupboard. Dehydrated food is light and much easier to carry. Simply cook your meals, place them in the dehydrator, then pack. A commonly quoted line from dehydrating connoisseurs is: “If it can be cooked it can be dehydrated.” Experienced walkers will bring wonderful-tasting sauces and condiments that with a touch of water will set the culinary adept among the group into a feeding frenzy.

3. LOVE ZIP LOCKS AND TUPPERWARE
Walkers love zip-lock bags. Storing foodstuffs in these handy little bags saves weight and space. The muttering of the words “save weight and space” will set the pulse racing of any hot-blooded regular walker. Zip-lock bags pack well and keep food fresh. Removing food packaging will also mean less rubbish to carry out. For larger groups, Tupperware is the answer. Yes, the ultimate kitchen solution has transcended the generations; Tupperware is lightweight and comes in a mindboggling variety of shapes and sizes. Look out for the latest flat-packing versions. Bring on the Tuesday night Tupperware parties.

4. KEEP ENTERTAINED
Sitting in a tent for 48 hours being battered by storm fronts in the Western Arthurs with a mate will indeed test your patience and conversation skills. A pack of cards, a paperback novel or a lightweight field guide could be worth its weight in gold. A game of cards is social and great for bonding on a long trip. Unexpected circumstances could have you in the wilderness for longer than planned. Some form of entertainment or mental stimulus will help you get through the long hours and boost morale.

5. BE WATER WISE
So simple yet often overlooked when heading out for extended periods, a tube or siphon could just save your life. Used for siphoning water from tiny springs or soaks, this small piece of equipment is especially important in much of Australia’s dry walking environments. In Australia, water sources can be extremely unpredictable, so fill up at any opportunity. Note the location and distance travelled from the water source should you or a group member have to return for water.

6. MORE WATER, LESS WEIGHT
A fold-up water bag or the trusty wine bladder is excellent for carrying extra water.

7. SMOOTH IT OVER
Vaseline is a staple in any self-respecting regular walker’s kit. Chaffing can be irritating at least and downright painful at worst. A touch of ‘vaso’ on sensitive areas and you’ll be gliding along the trail.

8. TREAT YOURSELF
Let’s face it unless you are a complete masochist the main reason you are out in the bush is enjoyment. Experienced walkers will tell you a little treat can make all the difference after a long day and lift spirits when times are tough. A cup of coffee, a slice of chocolate, a glass of wine or a dash of whiskey. Pack a little extra for your walking buddies and it’ll be a happier camp all round.

9. TAPE UP
A roll of duct tape will prove its worth in time of a quick repair. Wrap the tape around a trekking pole, or a container if space is a real concern. Duct tap will fix a torn tent, a ripped backpack, hold a flapping boot sole at bay, extend a cracked water bottle’s life and even help prevent blisters.

10. NAVIGATION 101
Even on well-marked trails experienced walkers are always navigating. They will look behind at regular intervals and get a feel for the route should they have to return. They will identify points of interest such as rock formations, distinctive trees, or changes in the terrain. This simple routine should become every walker’s habit. With the advent of GPS such simple habits can be easily overlooked.

11. RUBBER RESCUE
If walking in cold climates, take a pair of kitchen rubber gloves. Not only will they make washing up
on cold evenings much more pleasant, they are also good for doing jobs around camp like pulling up tent pegs in the rain.

12. DON’T DOUBLE UP
If you are walking with a group, use each member to evenly distribute equipment and food. Depending on the group size and dynamic you may need only one tent, one stove or one first-aid kit. Often gear is double loaded in small groups of inexperienced walkers. Before the trip it is a good idea to compare checklists and use common sense. Ensure loads are evenly distributed and match people’s physical ability and strength. Be fair and practical and you could all save a few kilograms.

13. LACE UP
Carry extra bootlaces. The saying goes “you’re only as strong as the weakest link” and you wouldn’t want a simple bootlace to be the undoing of an otherwise well-planned trip.

14. TRY IT AND TEST IT
Regular walkers love nothing more than playing with their gear. A great habit to develop is inspecting and using gear regularly between bush sojourns. Keep abreast of the operation of equipment; this will assist you if you have to set-up gear in tough conditions, and will ensure you don’t set off with faulty or damaged gear. A simple problem could compromise the safety of you and your group. In particular, trial new gear before you go bush. Much walking gear, such as stoves, require assembly and can have many different parts.

15. BE WEATHER AWARE
Check the forecast before you depart. On route look for signs of deteriorating weather and plan your walk accordingly. Even though a walk should be well-planned, common sense should prevail and you need to be prepared to be flexible in your approach if the weather changes.

16. STUDY HARD
Seasoned walkers will study areas and routes with often meticulous vigour. Going bush is not without
its risks. 

* Have a solid knowledge of the terrain and plan the route beforehand.  
* Go deeper than the guidebooks or local walking blog.  
* Find topographic maps and look at them over and over during the preparation phase.  
* Plan alternate routes and escape routes where possible.
* Have a contingency plan should issues arise.  
* No matter your level of experience, always notify others of trip plans and timeframe. Consider providing detailed trip notes for long walks in wilderness areas.

17. BLESSING IN A BAG
You should waterproof all gear, at the very least use a waterproof pack liner. However, most seasoned walkers will tell you it is imperative to show some extra vigilance with your sleeping-bag and one set of warm underclothes. Wet clothes can be walked in and may have to stay wet, as is often the case in Tasmania, however to sleep dry and warm is imperative for enjoyment and safety. Ensure each morning you repack your dry underclothes and sleeping-bag well and it is waterproof sealed.

18. LIGHT MY FIRE
Experienced walkers will always carry at least two ignition sources. Should one fail you can be safe in the knowledge you have another.

19. LESSON IN LAYERS
Plan your clothing according to layers. The rule of thumb of experienced walkers is to break clothing into at least three layers – base layer, middle layer and outer layer. Carry what you require for each layer only. This will assist your packing and ensure you don’t carry unnecessary clothing. Be mindful to pack the outer layer so that it is easily accessible. Your nice new Gore-Tex jacket may roll down and fit beautifully in the bottom corner of your pack, but you will regret your inefficient packing as soon the first shower hits and you have to empty your pack to find it! 

20. IT’S OKAY TO CANCEL
If the weather conditions are terrible or key personnel on the mission pull out, you have to be comfortable to cancel. If conditions are likely to be dangerous, then make the call as early as possible. The decision is never easy, particularly when you’ve planned and waited for a trip, but any outdoor adventurer has to make the call at some stage, and you need to be content with your decision. As travel author Ken Eastwood said, “It just means you are wise; not a wuss”.

21. ROUTINE, ROUTINE, ROUTINE
Regular walkers love routine. For example, get into the habit of always setting up the tent the same way. Packs under one vestibule, food in a bag in the top pocket, torch in your pant pocket – whatever works for you, just as long as it’s consistent. This will avoid you spending half the evening looking for things in your bag, miss half the ingredients for dinner or have to blindly scramble around the tent looking for your torch when you’re busting for the loo.

22. KEEP THE CAMERA HANDY
Having to take your pack off every time you come across a good shot means every chance of missing that great unexpected moment or wildlife encounter. Keep it in a pants or hipbelt pocket for quick and easy access.

23. HANDY CORD
A simple length of cord has so many uses: handy for drying clothes, tying things together, lowering a water bottle into a water source, lowering a pack down unstable track or as a guy rope for a tent or shelter.

24. EMERGENCY FARE
On any extended trip into the bush you must account for emergencies and carry extra provisions. How much will vary on the remoteness of the area and the length of the trip. A good extra emergency meal is one that doesn’t require cooking. In unforeseen circumstances this will mean that, if water is short and fuel is running low, you will still have a meal. This could be as simple as a bag of dried meat, dried fruit and biscuits. Remember it’s about sustenance not gourmet for
this meal!

25. DOUBLE-DUTY GEAR
Double-duty gear is gear that can perform more than one task. Garbage bags will carry food, act as a pack liner, provide an extra rain layer, can be sat on in the wet and even carry garbage, while a sleeping-bag cover stuffed with clothing is a great pillow. 

Source: Australian Geographic Outdoor March/April 2010.

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