Exploring the Ross River

Flying into Townsville, I was immediately struck by the mountainous surrounds to the city. In addition to the domineering figure of Castle Hill in the centre of the city, your eye is drawn to the distant Paluma Ranges and across the ocean to the hills of Magnetic Island. 

The hills, however, would have to wait for another day as our first morning began early, at 7.00am, as we met our guide, Julia. The cycle tour runs during the dry season, from May to October, and as we were getting a pre-season preview of the tour our days would be starting earlier than usual to beat the worst of the lingering summer heat. After a short walk through Queens Park, we arrived at tour headquarters to collect our metal steeds in the form of electric bicycles, equipped with pannier bags for carrying our gear. 

After a quick lesson in e-bike use, we mounted up and traversed across town to the impressive new Queensland Country Bank Stadium and the start of our Ross River ride. From here on out the ride was 90% bike path, which made for a very pleasant and quiet time. The electric assistance also allowed our small group to comfortably ride and chat throughout the morning, taking the pressure off ‘keeping up’ with each other. The Ross River meanders south-west from the city, bringing the views of Mount Stuart ever closer. We saw plenty of wildlife along the riverside, with curlews, rainbow bee-eaters, egrets, wallabies and river turtles being the most frequent.

By mid-morning, we were ready for breakfast (second breakfast for some) so we stopped at the Palmetum, which holds the largest collection of palms in the southern hemisphere. Walking through the cooling shades of the palms was a welcome break from the morning heat and we followed our stroll with food and coffee at the historic Tumbetin Lodge Cafe. Refuelled, we continued along the river, before crossing over and returning to the city on the other side. 

Today had been a relatively cruisy pedal up and down the river, but it was a great way to introduce us to our group, to the bikes, and to the week ahead. We arrived back to our waterfront hotel around lunchtime with a free afternoon ahead of us. 

High on the misty mountain

Another early heat-beating start saw us loading up the tour truck with our bikes and driving about 90 minutes out of Townsville and into Paluma Range National Park. Called ‘Munan Gumburu’ by the indigenous Nywaigi people, which means misty mountain, it’s immediately apparent how the area got its name as we ascend the ranges into the cool and cloudy embrace.

Seventeen kilometres of winding mountain road brings us to the top, where we unload our bikes at the small settlement of Paluma Village. Today’s ride is vastly different to yesterday, as we navigate quiet roads through the forest. The route is also considerably more undulating and I’m not ashamed to say that I kicked my bike into high gear to help with some of the sections – the power’s there to be used, right! 

We stopped to enjoy the sweeping views across Star Valley before continuing on to check out a huge example of a strangler fig (banyan) in action. According to our guide, there are many walking trails around Paluma, but they aren’t particularly well signposted, to say the least, so we were relying on his local knowledge as we locked our bikes to a tree and entered a narrow footpad into the trees. We were following a trail to Ethel Creek Falls, and while hiking the misty mountain air turned to proper rain, the weather was clearly keen to show us that we’d entered the cusp of the wet tropics.

Despite being advertised as a cycle tour, I was relishing the opportunity for the hike as it got us off the road and into the forest. As we reached Ethel Creek, we were met with a bit of rock hopping and a rope assisted descent down the side of a waterfall to the base of the falls. This was a beautiful spot, despite the drizzling rain and felt like a proper tropical oasis in the forest. Never one to pass up a wild swim, a couple of us took the opportunity for a refreshing dip, while our guide unpacked an excellent morning tea of scones, cream, jam and hot coffee! 

Refreshed, we ascended back up the side of the waterfall, collected our bikes and returned to base. Another free afternoon was spent exploring The Strand (Townsville’s waterfront), swimming in the rock pool and checking out the local night market.

Townsville’s Town Common

All too soon we’d reached our final morning in Townsville, but don’t feel sorry for us as we were heading out for a morning ride before catching the ferry across to Magnetic Island for the next part of our tour. With our bags packed and collected by one of our guides, we cycled away from our hotel and up The Strand heading for an area known as the Town Common, aka, the Pallarenda wetlands. 

As we made our way along the coastline, we got to see another aspect of Townsville as we passed many sandy beaches, although being the end of ‘stinger season’ the beaches weren’t as busy as they will be once the ocean is reopened for swimming. Nearing the wetlands, I couldn’t help but think back to my taxi ride after landing in Townsville. The taxi driver was a born and bred Townsvillian and she had confidently assured me that there are always crocodiles in the wetland area! Although I think she enjoys giving out these warnings to holiday makers as one of the other tour members had been treated to this crocodile story and many more.

Regardless, it was with some trepidation that I found myself pedalling into the Town Common as it certainly had a croccy feel to it; marshy wetlands that looked like prime stomping grounds for a croc or two. As we pedalled, I was acutely aware that my eyes were constantly scanning the undergrowth, while also watching for bumps on the dirt trail and again looking in the trees for wildlife. Not the easiest of rides.

After calming down a little, I began to enjoy the area, which apparently was a lot more overgrown than usual, with many more reeds and greenery in the usually open wetlands. We stopped for another morning tea of homemade snacks and coffee, before exiting the wetlands and cycled to Cape Palleranda Conservation Park. Here we visited an old World War II command and observation post, with sweeping views back towards Townsville city, Castle Hill and across to Magnetic Island.

We cycled back to the city, with time for lunch and another swim in the rock pool, before collecting our luggage and catching the ferry the short distance across to Magnetic Island. 

Maggie Island and West Point

Switching location mid-tour helped make our time on Magnetic Island feel like a holiday within a holiday and I found myself getting swept up in the holiday spirit of the island. Waterfront restaurants, backpackers and open-topped ‘Barbie’ cars certainly added to the tropical island feel to the place.

Magnetic Island is 75 per cent national park and home to around 1000 koalas. So as we began our cycle tour to West Point my eyes were no longer worriedly searching the undergrowth for crocodiles, but scanning the tree tops for a glimpse of grey fur. After a short pedal along the road from the harbour, we quickly passed by three of Magnetic Islands 23 beaches, Nelly Bay, Picnic Bay, and Rocky Bay, before detouring to Cockle Bay. Here you can look back towards Townsville, watch the large birds of prey circling and look across to the S.S City of Adelaide – a famous shipwreck lying in the bay. Best enjoyed on a boat or kayak tour, is was still cool to catch a glimpse of the shipwreck from the beach.

The road from Cockle Bay to West Point was a quiet stretch of dirt road, that tourists aren’t allowed to bring hire cars down, so we mostly had the track to ourselves. The road wound along the coastline, with plenty of shade on offer by the lush forest. We didn’t see any koalas, but there were several creek crossings to navigate, adding an extra splash of fun to the ride. After a brief stop, we returned to Picnic Bay to explore the jetty and the beach; it was a little windy otherwise we’d also have enjoyed a swim within the stinger net. Meanwhile our guide was preparing our final morning tea as this was the last bike ride for the week. 

Coffee fuelled and e-bikes turned on to full power, we sped back to the harbour to wave goodbye to our guide, already making plans for our next day and a half of ‘leisure’ on Magnetic Island.

The Forts Walk

With a free afternoon ahead of me, I decided to head out to tackle the Forts Walk, having heard from several friends that it was an absolute must-do on the Island. There’s only one major road on Maggie Island and the receptionist at Island Leisure Resort had advised us against cycling to the Forts Walk as you’re competing for space on the roads with the local bus and tourists. Instead, I further embraced the holiday spirit and for about $50 hired a scooter to get me around the island. 

With a big smile on my face, I set out towards the Forts Walk, detouring to Geoffrey Bay along the way to see the local rock wallabies that congregate on the headland. After spotting a couple of wallabies, which wasn’t difficult as there were plenty of tourists enticing them out of the rocks with carrots in hand – people are advised against feeding the wallabies, but carrots are among the food recommended for those that can’t resist the ‘need to feed’.

Seeing the wallabies was fun, but it was the koalas I was truly excited about, so I hopped back on the scooter and motored to the top of the hill and the start of the Forts Walk. The trail is a 4km round trip that trends upwards to a high point of the mountain where there are remains of World War II forts, constructed as early warning from the threat of Japanese bombers. After slowly scanning every tree I passed on the first section of the track, I then asked a friendly fellow tourist on their way down whether they’d spotted any koalas. Happily, they had, and they directed me another kilometre up the trail where they assured me I’d see an arrow marker made of sticks on the path, directing me to their koala sighting. 

Despite the helpful arrow to narrow down my search, it still took me a while of tree gazing to spot the koala, a sleepy adult and baby up the tree were the reward for my endeavours. Koala spotting satisfied, I continued the walk up the hill, enjoying wide reaching views across the island and down to the many bays visible from the summit. This was probably one of the high points, quite literally, of the entire trip and I was glad to have had the opportunity to check it out. 

Too windy to snorkel, so sailing it is

The next day, our final one of the tour, we were scheduled to spend the day with Aquascene on a snorkelling tour of the island. As Maggie sits within the Great Barrier Reef, this was due to be a magical experience, but unfortunately the winds were too high to make snorkeling an enjoyable and viable experience. However, Australian Cycle Tours were able to arrange an evening sailing trip instead, so I whiled away the day finally relaxing as the resort sign suggested and reading my book by the pool.

By evening, the winds had died down a little and we were collected from Horseshoe Bay by Pilgrim Sailing. They took us aboard their impressive sailing boat for a very memorable evening. We began with drinks in the bay before the captain dropped the sail and took us out towards the open water. As soon as we cleared the headland we were met by strong winds and the boat was soon zipping along, splashing water up the sides and giving us all a wild ride. With the sun setting behind the clouds, my hike along the Forts Walk was being heavily challenged for its title as most memorable part of the trip.

Nothing to do and all day to do it

As we caught the ferry back to Townsville the next day, ready to fly home, I reflected once more on the week gone by. I’d come to Townsville to enjoy a cycling holiday in a part of Australia that I hadn’t visited before, but it turned out to be so much more than a cycling holiday. If anything, it was a multi-sport adventure, coupled with a relaxing resort holiday all wrapped up in a beautiful tropical location. And I will be coming back.

The writer was a guest of Australian Cycle Tours. For more info on this tropical adventure, click here.

The post Gone troppo: Hike and bike Townsville and Magnetic Island appeared first on Australian Geographic.

North East Rail Trail

Distance: 26km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Gravel/MTB

Tasmania’s premier rail trail is just a whisker from Derby – you can almost smell the overheating brake pads from here – but is entirely different in pace and tone. The trail, which sees less bike traffic than most other rail trails, runs between the north-east forestry town of Scottsdale and Billycock Hill (a rise in the Tasman Hwy 15km west of Derby), following the course of the former Launceston–Branxholm railway. Its gradients are gentle, and the track is wide enough for two bikes to ride side by side along its entire length. 

From the old railway station in Scottsdale, the trail coasts downhill for 15km, ascending just as gradually over the remaining 11km to Billycock Hill. For the first 9km, the ride stays close to the Tasman Hwy, crossing it twice, but spending much of its time inside a cushioning strip of bush. After the second highway crossing near Tonganah, the trail drifts away from the highway, passing through farmland and beginning to feel surprisingly remote as it disappears into forest and tunnels through an impressive railway cutting blasted 10m into the earth.

The forest is tall and, at times, dense with ferns as the ride wraps through a deep gully, passing the former Trewalla railway station. About here, it begins the ascent towards Billycock Hill, where the trail ends at its highest point, around 120m higher than Scottsdale. There are campaigns to extend the rail trail from Scottsdale to Lilydale Falls, around 40km to the west of Scottsdale, and eventually through to Launceston, so watch this space.

Clarence Foreshore Trail

Distance: 14.5km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

This trail follows Hobart’s picturesque Derwent River, kicking off at Geilston Bay and finishing at Howrah, and is one of Hobart’s most popular family bike rides. Consisting of mostly flat footpaths, with the odd gravel section, a few roadside connections and a couple of hills, the trail is accessible for all abilities and skill levels, with plenty of entry and exit points. A highlight for families? Playgrounds galore for those inevitable refuel and rest stops. For those riders with little legs, a shorter version sees you set off from Geilston Bay and finish at Bellerive Park, with its playground and – yes! – the chance to indulge in fish and chips by the beach.

The ride encompasses magical views, from yachts bobbing on their moorings, to willow trees dangling over the trail. Passing under Hobart’s famous Tasman Bridge is a highlight, especially for the youngest cyclists, with the chance to test the echoes bouncing off the huge concrete pylons.

At Kangaroo Bay, about 9km from the start, you may time it right for local market stalls. The beach here is beautiful, plus the aforementioned fish and chips are available nearby.  The final leg around a headland leads Bellerive Beach and then on to Howrah Beach.

Kaoota Tramway Track

Distance: 6km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Gravel/MTB

This short rail trail, traversing the hilltops above Margate and Sandfly, is just 30km south of Hobart, and yet feels utterly removed. Following part of an abandoned tramway, built in 1905 to transport coal 20km from Kaoota to the wharf in Margate, it’s not as groomed as most rail trails – it’s rockier and bumpier – but it shares their gentle gradients.

From just outside of Kaoota, the trail sets out into tall forest on a track – sometimes as wide as fire trail, sometimes singletrack – benched into the slopes. The bush is mostly dry, but there are pockets of forest and ferns as it swings through The Gorge, where it crosses a small wooden bridge and doubles back across the slopes. Little pedalling is needed as the trail gradually heads downhill, passing through open forest that provides glimpses of kunanyi/Mt Wellington. The track crosses another wooden bridge over Platypus Creek, from where it widens and smooths, making for a quick finish to Lawless Rd.

A good addition, though only for intermediate or advanced riders, is to follow Lawless Rd for 1.5km down the slopes and turn onto the Nierinna Creek Track, which runs for 3km to the edge of Margate.

Blue Derby

Distance: 125km +  Grade: Easy to Advanced  Bike: MTB

Since launching its network of mountain bike trails in 2015, the once-forlorn tin-mining town of Derby has become a byword for mountain biking. Its huge network of trails instantly generated such fanfare and attention that it almost single-handedly inspired the burst of trail openings across Australia in the subsequent years.

The key to Derby’s appeal is the flowing nature of its trails, which begin high in the Blue Tier mountains, with a compact cluster of trails around Derby itself. For those looking for family bike rides, there is a large pump track on the bank of the Ringarooma River keeps crowds of kids happy, while the riding can begin as leisurely as a lap around Lake Derby, across the river from town. For families with younger/new riders, this is a must-ride.

For more confident family members, some trails to check out include Blue Tier, which hurries down rainforest-covered slopes of its namesake mountain range to Weldborough; and Atlas, which continues the journey from near Weldborough down into Derby. Shuttle services out of Derby make it possible to ride both in a full, 30km day if you clan is up to it, descending from sub-alpine clearings at the top of the Blue Tier through magnificent rainforest to the dry sclerophyll forests around Derby.

Shuttles aren’t always necessary, though, with another family favourite the gentle Axehead looping out from town to connect with a host of other green- and blue-graded trails. The best thing about Derby is the sheer number of choices when it comes to trails. If you have older kids that are more confident, the blue (and black) trails will keep them well entertained, while the little’uns or less confident can still enjoy exploring a spectacular part of Tassie on their bikes. Win, win, we say…

Pipeline Track

Distance: 24km return  Grade: Easy  Bike: Gravel/MTB

Most mountain trails demand mountains of effort, but not Hobart’s Pipeline Track. Following the course of the city’s water-supply system – hence the ‘pipeline’ in the name – the gently sloping track wraps around the flank of kunanyi/Mt Wellington and is one of Hobart’s most popular family bike rides.

The wide, family-friendly track begins in Fern Tree, passing beneath the water pipeline. Though the track parallels Huon Rd all the way to Neika, there’s little indication of it as the track burrows through the thick bush. There are views over the River Derwent to Turrakana/Tasman Peninsula on a short, exposed section of the track before it turns onto a vehicle track (used by park and water authorities) and enters Wellington Park. It’s here the most spectacular sight of the ride – the sharp-tipped Cathedral Rock – muscles into the view, where it remains for the rest of the outward ride.

The Pipeline Track finishes seemingly in the middle of nowhere – close by a landslip – but there’s a turnaround point 1km before its end, at the start of the Wellington Falls walking track. Lock your bike to the racks here and check it out before returning to Fern Tree.

For more bike rides, check out our favourite family bike rides in Victoria, New South Wales and the ACT, and Queensland.

The post The best family bike rides in Tasmania appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Uluru Circuit

Distance: 10.6km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

This full loop of the world’s most famous monolith is a must-do for any visitors to the Northern Territory’s Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. It is a very easy, very flat ride that you could, if you were, for some odd reason, in a rush, complete in less than an hour, but please don’t. ‘The Rock’ as Uluru is also known, hides some incredibly scenic and spiritual secrets that you must experience for yourself.

The ‘official’ loop starts from the Mala car park, but if you’re hiring a bike (Outback Cycling offers hires), you will start from 2km west, at the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre car park and take the bike path to Mala. From here, it is an anti-clockwise journey on predominantly hard dirt, with a little bit of sand to negotiate from Mala to Mutitjulu waterhole. This part of the loop brings you close to Uluru itself before a must-stop at Mutitjulu waterhole, where you can park your bike at the bike rack and take the short walk into the gorge itself. 

The track then continues around Uluru, moving further away from the rock, before you ride parallel to its more heavily eroded northern face. After that, though, you’re back closer and ready for more exploration at Kantju Gorge and its pretty waterhole. From there, the loop continues to curve around and, before you know it, you’re back at Mala and ride’s end, far richer for the memories of experiencing this ageless icon up close.  

Simpsons Gap Bike Path

Distance: 17km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

Running umbilically between Alice Springs and Simpsons Gap, the nearest of the West MacDonnell Ranges’ multitude of narrow gorges to the city, this fully sealed bike path is a desert delight.

Beginning beside the boulder-topped grave of John Flynn, founder of the Royal Flying Doctor Service, the path rolls gently through the Alice Valley, pinched between the rust-red mountains of the West MacDonnells and the Heavitree Range. For all but the first kilometre, the ride is inside Tjorita/West MacDonnell National Park, winding between low hills but making few climbs of its own. The open landscape is brightened by ghost gums, desert bloodwoods and the lavender-like flowers of the mulla mulla.

There are two picnic tables (with bike racks) tucked into the shade of ghost gums along the path, and a 1.8km walking trail to Cassia Hill (named for the cassia shrubs that cover it) that starts from the path’s edge as it makes its final turn towards Simpsons Gap. The last 700m of the ride is on a roadside bike lane (where it also crosses the Larapinta Trail), ending in the Simpsons Gap car park, from where it’s a 400m stroll along the sandy creek bed to the Gap. This break in the mountains creates a spectacular scene – in full sun, the orange cliffs seem to glow like coals above the permanent pool (swimming is banned) inside the gorge. Black-footed rock wallabies are commonly seen among the rocks that litter the slopes outside its mouth. With average summer temperatures reaching 36 °C, this is a path best pedalled in the cooler winter months.

Nitmiluk

Distance: 19km  Grade: Easy to Intermediate  Bike: MTB

Nitmiluk National Park has always been a highlight for visitors to the Northern Territory, with its spectacular gorge system previously only able to be admired from the water or on foot. With thirteen gorges to visit, most visitors never get past the first couple, but with the introduction of mountain bikes into the national park, it is now possible to ride to some stunning locations. 

The climate here dictates the ride. The green Jalkwarak loop is under 6km and is a wise warm-up. Being close to the road and the ranger station, you can ensure that everything is in order before you push deeper into the park. The network is around 19km and is mainly shared use, although being up on the plateau you won’t see many other users on the network. The newly built MTB-specific sections of trail – Jalkwarak (Easy Grade) and Jatete (Intermediate) – are fantastic with Jatete offering brilliant views over the pristine Katherine River. The more adventurous family members can push further east on shared-use trails to Pat’s Lookout or descend Bamjon for a cooling dip. 

If you want a ride and swim, the nearby town of Katherine has a town loop and lovely natural spa that’s easy to get to. Just remember crocodiles live at Nitmiluk. The harmless freshwater crocs are year-round inhabitants, but the deadly salties slip in during the wet season, so only get in the water after the all-clear has been given by the national park rangers. Crocodiles, stunning views and remote trails – you won’t forget the family bike rides here!

Alice Springs Mountain Bike Trails

Distance: 105km (combined total, all trails)  Grade: Easy to Expert  Bike: MTB

Hugged tightly against Alice Springs is an extensive mountain bike trail network, radiating from the town’s very edges. The ever-expanding network is divided into two sections, Westside and Eastside, with more than 100km of trails between them. The central trailhead is at the Alice Springs Telegraph Station, north of town, from where trails spiral out across the desert sands. The Telegraph Station also makes a great picnic/lunch stop for families with young riders. 

Three-quarters of the trails are graded Blue (Intermediate), with a couple of Black (Expert) runs and a smattering of Greens (Easy). There’s a beautifully natural feel to the design of the network, with trails rolling over slabs of rock, dipping through dry creek beds and ascending the low hills that dot the desert.

The Eastside trails stay close to Alice, wriggling out past the town’s north-eastern side, and contain some of the network’s more technical features. The Westside trails begin across the Stuart Highway, crossing open country towards John Flynn’s Grave and the Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges.

For a full day out, making the network’s longest loop, set out from the Telegraph Station on Arrwe, linking up to Apwelantye and Road Train on the Eastside trails. Beside the Ghan railway, Road Train meets Hell Line, part of the Westside trails. The longest trail in the network, Hell Line loops out west along low hills with big views of the West MacDonnnells and Heavitree Gap, before crossing the Larapinta Trail as it turns back east to meet Bus or Locomotive trails on its return to Alice’s western edge. A 3km section of the Larapinta Trail, between Apwelantye and the Stuart Highway, can also be cycled, and is one of the region’s most enjoyable short family bike rides.

The post The best family bike rides in the Northern Territory appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Moreton Bay Cycleway

Distance: 11km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

While the city of Brisbane boasts a cycleway along its river, Moreton Bay can be proud of the 11km cycleway that skirts this bay near Redcliffe. Sea breezes, the smell of the ocean, a promise of fish and chips, and the wind in your hair – sounds ideal, right?

There’s room to park at Scarborough Beach before pointing south (keep the ocean on your left) and heading towards Ted Smout Memorial Bridge. If you need to earn your fish and chips, keep the legs moving and you’ll have no problems on the uninterrupted route, making for a neat 22km return, but be sure not to miss some of the more scenic places to stop off and enjoy the views, and perhaps a coffee, along the way.

Settlement Cove Lagoon is a place to pause, with amenities if the need arises. Once you’re back in the saddle, keep your eyes peeled for Gayundah Wreck below the cliffs at Woody Point. The shipwreck occurred in the 19th century, and the resting place for this Navy ship is popular with photographers. Crockatt Park is past the wreck, and a worthy bargaining chip for young legs that may be tiring – the park has a long flying fox. Otherwise, Pelican Park is just before Ted Smout Memorial Bridge, and the ride’s turn-around point, and is named appropriately! Time to turn back north and stop wherever the fish and chips smells best!

Brisbane Valley Rail Trail

Australia’s longest rail trail begins its journey in rural Yarraman and finishes in Wulkuraka, at the suburban edge of Ipswich, less than an hour’s drive from Brisbane’s city centre. 

Traffic-free along its length, the trail descends through the Brisbane Valley as the river flows towards Brisbane, though the views are so faithfully rural that the presence of a city feels like a myth. It is a long ride but one that is broken up by several small towns along the way, making it ideal for the cycle touring family who can choose how long (one day, two or more) they wish to spend exploring this trail.

From Yarraman, the trail sets out through bush and cattle country, beginning its biggest descent (the trail drops approximately 350m between Yarraman and Wulkuraka) in Benarkin. This descent ends 18km later in Linville, a likely stopping point for the first night.

The Brisbane River is first sighted beyond Linville, and not seen again until Lowood, around 85km later, leaving farmland and dry bush to dominate the views throughout. The old railway’s greatest legacy, beside the gentle gradients, is the Yimbun Tunnel, which bores through the hills for 100m just beyond Harlin.

The unsealed trail is lined with old railway trestle bridges that once spanned the many deep gullies that furrow the land, though the ride typically drops into the gullies, creating a series of short, steep descents and climbs that have many cyclists dismounting to push their bikes. The ride is lined with small towns – Blackbutt, Linville, Moore, Harlin, Toogoolawah, Esk, Coominya, Lowood, Fernvale – making it easy to structure days and find food, rest stops, pick-up points and accommodation along the way. The greatest distance between towns is 24km. A private shuttle service, run by Out There Cycling, operates along the length of the trail.

Tewantin Mountain Bike Trails

Distance: 10km +  Grade: Easy to Intermediate  Bike: MTB

Imagine a place you could combine a beach-based holiday with some fantastic easy to intermediate mountain biking. Noosa is known for its beautiful beaches, posh restaurants and for being an uber trendy place to hang out and be seen. But sitting just behind Noosa are some sweet MTB trails you and the family can slip out onto for some fun laps while the others are waking up and getting ready for a yoga class on stand-up paddleboards (yes, it’s a thing). If that isn’t good enough, what about a beautifully bituminised road to casually roll up the hill on – one actually closed to cars! (It’s a car race track, so it’s closed to cars most of the time, at least.) 

Parking at the base, you ride up this gently climbing road with trails branching off various corners – all the trails are numbered, so are very easy to navigate, i.e., climb until you reach Turn 10 where the Quoll trail starts. Bloodwood is a great flowing singletrack trail and Milkmaid is deeper into the network and worth exploring for intermediate riders. 

The whole area is easily accessible for holiday riders and easy to navigate. There are other trails nearby, making the family’s mountain bikes logical things to pack on a Noosa holiday – along with the sunscreen, of course. 

Mackay Bluewater Trail

Distance: 20km    Grade: Easy    Bike: Any

If you set out to create a multi-use trail that epitomised a choose-your-own adventure book and one of the country’s most enjoyable family bike rides – you’d end up with something very much like Mackay’s Bluewater Trail. The trail is a near-perfect loop of the centre of Mackay, connecting parklands, views, art installations and outdoor recreation venues to suit cyclists young and old. The surface is a mix of sealed surfaces and boardwalk, which you’ll share with pedestrians.

Start the ride at the Mackay Regional Botanic Gardens, which overlook a pretty lagoon, before circling clockwise to the Pioneer River and along the foreshore. Then, continue along the Catherine Freeman Walk towards the mouth of the Pioneer River. 

Kids young and old will want to stop at the Bluewater Lagoon. It’s a three-tiered artificial lagoon that is free to enter. Carrying on after a dip, you will approach the Bluewater Trail public art display, which features six installations. 

From here, ride on the Sandfly Creek Environment Walk, home to a wide variety of migratory birds throughout the year. The final stretch takes you past Iluka Park, a play area with open access for children. You can cruise back past Paradise Street for a coffee or meal, and then you are moments from where you started at the Botanic Gardens.

Caboolture to Wamuran Rail Trail

Distance: 10.5km (one-way)  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

Rail trails can be anything from transport infrastructure through to adventure travel itineraries, and the short Caboolture to Wamuran Rail Trail is more of the former, while still being a component of the latter for some. The rail trail is concrete from end to end, so you can tackle it on any bike with air in its tyres. This is the first part of the Caboolture to Kilcoy rail line, which previously took timber from the hinterland as well as goods to market.

The access is easy from Caboolture station, and there is a small parking lot with information boards, covered seating, a bike pump and water right off Margaret Street in Caboolture. The same facilities are also found at the other end in Wamuran. 

The signage is clear and easy to read, and there is plenty of information about the history of the rail line and its communities. Ride out of Caboolture and you’re soon riding past farmland, with the rise of the D’Aguilar Range and Mount Mee to your left.

There are several options to hop on or hop off the rail trail as you go, with public toilets along the route. While the gradient and surface mean almost anyone can ride it, the route doesn’t offer a lot of shade, and there are road crossings, so be aware of those factors if you’re considering taking younger riders on this route. A couple of the old stations do offer an area to sit and take a look around to enjoy this corner of southeast Queensland on one of the state’s best family bike rides.

For more of Australia’s best family bike rides, click here.

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Rediscovering Atiu’s ancient brew and island traditions

If you ever find yourself on a remote Pacific island, I might suggest that getting to know the locals is essential, and on Atiu, in the Cook Islands, one of the best ways to do so is at a tumunu. A tumunu is a traditional drinking circle where locals gather to share stories and solve problems, and it delves into Atiu’s past when islanders fermented fruit in hollowed-out coconut tree trunks to avoid prohibition by overbearing missionaries in the early 19th century. And so, on my arrival in Atiu with my travel partner Loz, I readily accepted an invite to a tumunu. 

However, as I hold a half coconut filled with a sweet, slightly sour brew of naturally fermented forest fruits, from what resembles an old paint bucket, I wonder if this is such a good idea after all. It appears I am being auctioned off as marriage material to some islander ladies, and the island police chief, sitting next to me, suggests Loz will make a great wife to a tribal elder, and bear him many children. As flattering as the offers are, they are not ideal, as Loz happens to be my betrothed. 

I self-affirm that this is all part of my research just as a communal cup of bush beer is passed my way. I gulp down the contents with only a slight grimace. The liquor is growing on me. Fortunately, as the night progresses, Loz and I quietly retreat to our comfortable, eco-friendly lodgings at Atiu Villas before we are married off. In doing so, we avoid the inevitable tumunu hangover and can better enjoy exploring the ‘land of the birds’ over the following days.

The ancient ‘land of the birds’

Atiu, known as Enuamanu, or ‘land of the birds’, beckons travellers off the beaten path in the remote Nga-Pu-Toru atolls of the South Pacific and is the first stop on our Cook Islands exploration. Landing on the compacted coral runway is like stepping into a picture-perfect Pacific paradise, where less than a stone’s throw away, coconut palms sway over white sandy beaches and breakers crash over brilliant coral reefs. It might not have the flashy, glamorous lagoons like neighbouring atolls, but with an eight-million-year-old limestone landscape, the island provides a unique playground for adventurers seeking an authentic Cook Islands experience. With only one paved road and five tiny villages melding into a central hub, the island’s blend of pre-colonial tribal heritage and post-colonial Christianity is clear.

Originally settled by Polynesians around 900–1000 CE, Atiu thrived on agriculture, fishing, and inter-island trade, with a well-organised society based on clan leadership (mataiapo) and governed by chiefs (ariki). Islanders had a strong mythological connection to the land through ‘akua’ spirits that embodied the spiritual essence of their environment. Then, Captain James Cook arrived in 1777, bringing European influence, and later, in 1823, Christianity swooped in and shook things up big-time. Missionaries from the London Missionary Society started swapping out ancient akua idols for Bible teachings, while ship rats, pigs, and noxious weeds, followed by Indian mynas, wreaked havoc on the local flora and fauna.

Fast-forward to today, and the environment is bouncing back, thanks to conservation efforts by the locals. The remaining islander population of 400 residents has found a balance between ancient Polynesian culture mixed with a dash of Christianity. With the departure of missionaries, bush-beer is no longer ‘the devil’s drink,’ and so a tumunu offers a chance to meet the who’s who of islanders, all keen to show off their patch of paradise.

Birdman George

Less than twelve hours after Loz and my tumunu immersion, everyone on the island seems to know of our presence, and so we embark on an eco-adventure with Birdman George. Despite lacking the breadth of aquatic life of neighbouring islands’ extensive lagoons, Atiu boasts rejuvenated avian fauna thanks to conservation efforts led by environmental advocate George Mateariki, affectionately known as Birdman George. Over two decades, he, along with fellow islanders, has eradicated invasive species, reintroduced native bird populations, and now offers informative eco-tours on Atiu. George explains how the Cook Islands’ once-thriving bird populations suffered due to invasive species introduced by European mariners. Kakerori, Atiu swamphen, Cook Islands fruit dove, Rimatara lorikeet, and cave-dwelling kopeka (Atiu swiftlet) colonies were decimated. Some species were driven to near extinction. Thankfully, passionate advocates like George have preserved Atiu’s ecological treasures.

As we tour his island home, we spy the elusive Cook Islands fruit dove as well as the once-believed extinct Rimatara lorikeet. Later, under the watchful gaze of a chattering kingfisher, Uncle George (a term of respect on Atiu) shares local traditions as he weaves a basket of palm fronds and lays out a feast of banana and papaya drizzled with fresh lime and freshly shaved coconut. We spot tern, tropicbird, and noddy as we eat, highlighting the now flourishing seabird colonies. As we marvel at the island’s resilience and the impact of conservation efforts on its natural heritage, we are lulled into “island-time”. That is, until Birdman George jumps up. “We have to get you to Tai,” he explains. “Or you’ll miss out on the kopeka.”

A journey into Anatakitaki Cave

A quick handover sees Birdman George pass Loz and I to local guide Tai for a jungle adventure to Anatakitaki Cave. The cave’s ancient stalactites and stalagmites are home to the rare kopeka, and Tai promises a bonus surprise that will make the sweaty jungle trek worthwhile. We traverse rutted jungle singletrack on a borrowed motor-scooter before navigating a 45-minute trek over razor-sharp fossilised coral, eventually arriving at the cave’s nondescript entrance.

Head torches affixed, we descend into a sinkhole and are quickly enveloped by immense limestone caverns, where rare cave-dwelling kopeka dart above our heads. Tai regales childhood stories of hunting coconut crab in the caves to the clicking sounds of the kopeka. He explains how this unique swiftlet uses echolocation to navigate in the pitch black and briefly shines a light to reveal them roosting on the cave roof.

Exploring further, Tai squeezes through a narrow gap. Loz and I follow. Descending an old rope, Tai grins back as we reach his ‘surprise’, a crystal-clear subterranean freshwater pool. Lighting candles throughout the cavern, the hidden grotto takes on the appearance of a secret oasis untouched by time. Sweaty from hours in the jungle, we plunge into the cool water to glide through the dark depths. Surrounded by ancient silence, a profound sense of tranquility washes over us, offering a fleeting moment of serenity and escape from the outside world. It is one of many moments that make Atiu a special place. Sadly, we must leave the next day.

Coffee, beaches, and unexpected catch-ups

As our final day dawns on Atiu, we embrace the opportunity for spontaneous exploration. With a desire to experience the island beyond guided tours, I venture to meet Auntie Mata Arie, the dedicated proprietor of Atiu Island Coffee. Amidst the challenges of processing wild-growing Arabica coffee plants, introduced by early missionaries, Auntie Mata and her team craft a truly unique coffee from this remote corner of the Pacific. We grab some beans to return home with and scoot off for a quick swim and snorkel at Matai Beach. En route, we run into Tai and then stop for a chat with Birdman George. Choosing the scenic route via the Harbour and Cooks Landing, we cross paths with an ‘Uncle’ we’d shared stories with at the tumunu.

In just a few days, the island has begun to feel like home. Mindful of our next adventure, however, we hastily make our way past deserted beaches to the only strip of flat ground on the island, where a tiny twin-prop 18-seat Air Rarotonga plane sits waiting to depart for Rarotonga. We wave our new friends goodbye with a promise to return, but there’s no time for hugs – we have a date with green sea turtles in Rarotonga that cannot wait.

Sea scooters and surprise encounters

Arriving in Rarotonga from Atiu feels akin to emerging from the subway into ‘The Big Smoke’, except this ‘metropolis’ is a tropical island where hire-cars come with a note: “Please do not park under coconut trees”. Finding a palm-free spot, Loz and I meet Ariki Adventures for a Turtle Sea Scooter Safari.

Sea scootering is like cheating at snorkelling, but these lightweight propulsion devices allow users to navigate deepwater channels like Avaavaroa Passage, usually off-limits for recreational snorkelling. These passages are havens for vibrant tropical fish, graceful eagle rays, and the relaxed green sea turtle. With our scooters set to ‘Cruise’, Loz and I glide among these majestic creatures. Known for their inquisitive nature and calm demeanour, there is no need to dive deep in search of individuals, and patience is rewarded with turtles gliding up from the depths to snag some air and check out us humans. The experience can be crowded with plenty of bobbing tourists, but the gentle curiosity of the green sea turtles makes for a truly special close-up experience.

As with all animal encounters, surprises are possible. For us, it is a critically endangered hawksbill turtle joining our party. Biologists estimate the hawksbill population has declined up to 80 percent in the last century, so this encounter leaves us hopeful that global conservation efforts might be slowly turning the tide. Inevitably for us, the tide has turned, and so with scooter switched to level 3, we fight the current back to shore just in time to check into Ikurangi Eco Retreat.

Glamping and dining Rarotonga-style

Ikurangi Eco Retreat offers a unique glamping experience in Rarotonga, blending luxury with sustainability. Nestled in lush gardens, the retreat features spacious safari tents and tropical garden villas, all equipped with comfortable beds, ensuite bathrooms, and eco-friendly amenities. It is a perfect base for our Rarotonga exploration. Our hosts, Alan and Vicki, emphasise sustainability through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a commitment to reducing waste, including a composting toilet in our private open-air bathroom. Yoga is on offer, and complimentary bicycles, and of course we spend plenty of time in the refreshing pool. The retreat’s serene atmosphere and attentive service make it an ideal getaway for those looking to reconnect with nature without sacrificing comfort. The only comfort not included is lunch and evening meals, but that’s where Muri Night Markets come into play.

The Muri Night Markets are a vibrant food market held four nights a week from 5pm. The markets offer an array of local and international food trucks and stalls, serving everything from fresh seafood and traditional Polynesian dishes to desserts and vegetarian options. The markets provide a great opportunity to mingle with locals and other travellers while enjoying delicious, affordable food. Just remember to bring cash as many vendors don’t accept cards. Filled with noodle, fish and churros, Loz and I waddle home to our tent; we have an early start the next morning with Pacific Divers.

What lies beneath

With more than 70 types of coral and hundreds of reef fish species, Rarotonga’s clear waters and volcanic topography are perfect for SCUBA lovers, and the island offers more than 35 spectacular and easily accessible dive sites. Vibrant underwater landscapes vary from coral gardens and deep drop-offs to caves and wrecks, with dives for both novice and expert. With water visibility more than 30 meters and water temperatures in the mid-twenties, I’m eager to get back in the water, so I partner up with Pacific Divers to explore the hard coral reefs and rich marine life just offshore.

Edna’s Anchor is a dive site steeped in history and natural beauty. The anchor, believed to be from the Edna schooner of the late 19th century, rests just shy of 25 metres deep, surrounded by a stunning array of hard coral formations. Pue Coral Gardens, on the other hand, offers a seemingly endless hard coral reef between 10-28 metres, with brilliant tropical aquatic life, including a friendly sea turtle that pops in to say hello.

With my oxygen management improving I am keen for more dive time, but I have a snorkelling date with Loz, and the butterflyfish, triggerfish, sunset wrasse, and even an elusive white mouth moray eel in the shallower waters of Aroa Lagoon Marine Reserve. While my SCUBA experience reignites a passion for underwater exploration, snorkelling once again proves that some of the most vibrant aquatic life is right under our nose and accessible only metres from shore. The Rarotonga bonus being a beachside bar for sunset vibes is never far away.

Across the island

Having waterlogged our bodies and brains, we dedicate our final day to the land-based adventure of the Cross Island Hike. This steep and rugged three- to five-hour, 7.6km trek climbs from sea level to 400m and can be completed unguided. However, for a deeper understanding of Cook Islands’ natural history, I recommend joining Bruce from Pa’s Cross Island Hike. Bruce, the nephew of the renowned naturalist Pa Teuruaa, brings invaluable insight to the journey.

The trail winds from the north to the south, passing through lush rainforest where Bruce points out native flora and fauna, such as the Rarotonga tree skinks scurrying in the undergrowth or the kōpī ‘enua (wild ginger) plant, known for its cosmetic and medicinal properties. Midway through the hike, we reach the impressive 80m spire of Te Rua Manga (The Needle), which offers breathtaking views of the island.

Te Rua Manga is revered by locals as a place of great spiritual energy, crucial for maintaining harmony in the natural and spiritual worlds. At its base are buried the remains of a 900-year-old Buddhist master, following the Dalai Lama’s recognition of the site as one of the world’s last energy centres. From the high point, we wind downhill, descending to the coast, where a refreshing dip at Wigmore Falls provides a fitting end to our Cook Island activities.

A culinary conclusion

Back in the hustle and bustle of coastal life, and having built up an appetite trekking the island, we zoom past our favourite morning haunt at Cook Island Coffee Company and beeline our way to the iconic Mooring Fish Cafe. It might not look like much, but it’s where the locals claim we’ll find the best fish sandwiches on the island. I can’t decide between the crumbed mahi-mahi or Cajun seared tuna sandwich. Fortunately, Loz settles my quandary by ordering both. With the sight of the sun sinking toward Te Rua Manga, and with freshly opened coconuts in hand, we reflect on our whirlwind tour of a Pacific paradise.

Our journey through the Cook Islands has been extraordinary. From the cultural richness and natural beauty of Atiu to the underwater wonders of Rarotonga, every experience has deepened our appreciation for this Polynesian paradise. Whether sipping bush beer in a tumunu, exploring vibrant coral reefs with Pacific Divers, or hiking to the spiritual heights of Te Rua Manga, the Cook Islands offer an adventure for every traveler.

The warmth of the locals, stunning landscapes, and the unique blend of tradition and modernity make the Cook Islands a destination that stays with you long after you leave. It was seven years between visits for me, but somehow, I suspect it won’t be another seven until Loz and I once again find ourselves at a tumunu, but it might be wise to play the honeymooning couple, or else we might wake to find ourselves, literally, married to the Islands.

The Essentials

Getting there: Jetstar offers direct flights from Sydney to Rarotonga. For travel between mid-July to mid-August 2024, customers can see fares from as low as $329 online (available until sold out and subject to change). Jetstar’s direct service from Sydney to Rarotonga now operates four times a week on a Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday. The flight time to Rarotonga is approx. 5.5 hours direct. Jetstar operates an Airbus A321neoLR aircraft departing Sydney at 9.30pm, arriving in Rarotonga at 7.00am the same day. The return flights leave Rarotonga at 9.00am arriving in Sydney at 12.30pm the following day, with connections available to all Australian domestic airports. Travelling with Jetstar also means you can tailor your flight inclusions (i.e. meals, seat selection and baggage) so that you only pay for what you want/need.

Inter-island travel: Air Rarotonga is your best option for travel between the islands.

Getting around: There are plenty of scooters, motorcycles and cars for hire on Rarotonga. We used Polynesian Rentals. You’ll need to rely on locals or most likely loan/hire a car/bike or scooter from your accommodation provider or general store on the outer islands.

Where to stay: Whilst there are plenty of options on Rarotonga, there are less so on Atiu. We stayed at Ikurangi Eco Retreat on Rarotonga and Atiu Villas on Atiu.

Where to eat: Rarotonga has endless options for eating from food trucks by the road to markets to fine dining restaurants. We recommend Muri Night Markets, Tamarind House, Mooring Fish Cafe, Cook Island Coffee Company, Sandals, and Silver Sands.

Communications: For mobile phone and data plans your best bet is to collect a prepaid Vodafone Cook Islands card at the airport. There are towers and boosters offering mobile data all over Rarotonga. There is limited mobile data on Atiu but if you find yourself on Atiu I suggest you turn your phone off and enjoy where you are!

The writer was a guest of Cook Islands and Jetstar.

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River Torrens Linear Park Trail

Distance: 35km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

Meandering beside Adelaide’s major waterway for the length of its journey across the Adelaide Plain, the River Torrens Linear Trail slices through the city and suburbs while feeling all but removed from them.

With trails running along both sides of the river most of the way across the plain, the ride is as much a commuting corridor as a scenic trail, a journey from the Adelaide Hills to the sea that also showcases many of the city’s major cultural attractions. Bridges are plentiful, making it easy to switch from bank to bank as you please.

In the east, the fully sealed trail begins at the mouth of a gorge, where the River Torrens pours out of the hills (and where the Mawson Trail begins its journey in the opposite direction). The sealed paths descend around 100 vertical metres to the river mouth at Henley Beach. Most of the descent comes in the early kilometres, where the river still resembles a creek, and the trail passes beneath magnificent river red gums. The grassy banks provide endless opportunities to pause and picnic.

Through the city, the ride becomes an Adelaide highlights reel, with the now-busy trail passing the zoo, the Festival Centre and Adelaide Oval, all set to the backdrop of the city skyline. From the city centre, it’s around 13km to the coast. A good option for a return ride is to set out from the city and pedal to Henley Beach along one riverbank, returning along the other. This is also the flattest stretch of the linear park.

Coast to Vines Rail Trail

Distance: 37km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

This descriptively named ride does exactly what its title suggests, connecting Adelaide’s southern coastline to the McLaren Vale wine region, following a disused railway and adding to South Australia’s rich collection of wine-themed bike trails.

Setting out from the train station at Marino Rocks, the ride burrows through Adelaide’s southern suburbs, weaving through parkland and crossing over the Southern Expressway and, more peacefully, the Onkaparinga River. It utilises a combination of wide bike paths and roadside paths, with a dividing line painted down its centre like a road.

There’s a distinct moment where the ride slips out of the suburbs, pressing through a last line of houses in Seaford Rise and setting out above Pedlar Creek towards McLaren Vale. Vineyards quickly appear below the trail, and 6km after leaving Seaford Rise, the trail rolls into the town of McLaren Vale.

Crossing Main Rd, the ride heads briefly up Caffrey St before returning to the trail, which, between here and Willunga (8km away), is also known as the Shiraz Trail. The ride continues to squeezes between vineyards, offering plenty of chances to stop and sip, with tall eucalypts forming a scenic corridor as the trail climbs gradually towards Willunga. 

The trail ends beside the old Willunga railway station (which doubles as the start of the Kidman Trail), but it’s worth pedalling on through High St to the Old Bush Inn for another cycling classic – a marker beside the pub notes the start of Old Willunga Hill, the most famous climb in the annual Tour Down Under pro cycling race.

Encounter Bikeway

Distance: 31km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

Showing off one of South Australia’s favourite holiday coasts, this seaside cycle stretches along the southern edge of the Fleurieu Peninsula, taking in the likes of Victor Harbor, Port Elliot and Middleton Beach as it journeys from The Bluff to Goolwa.

From a car park on the slopes of The Bluff (it’s worth walking to the top of the 97m-high headland for a view over Encounter Bay and much of the ride ahead), the bikeway drops to the shores of Encounter Bay, following a foreshore path into Victor Harbor. As Victor’s causeway stretches across the water to Granite Island, the ride turns with the coast, continuing to run pinched between the sand and the town.

Crossing under a railway bridge and over the Hindmarsh River, the ride becomes a combination of bike paths and streets, but it always stays close to the coast – if you’re riding between May and September, keep a watch on the sea, especially along Boomer and Basham beaches, where southern right whales are regularly sighted.

The ride stays with the coast to Middleton, where it cuts briefly inland to Goolwa, the town sitting on the final bend in the Murray River’s long journey – the river mouth is just 10km away from here. The bikeway heads upstream from Goolwa, finishing abruptly and anticlimactically at Laffin Point. A more fitting finish is at the Goolwa Wharf (3.5km before Laffin Point), beside the Hindmarsh Island Bridge. It’s home to a distillery, eateries and a cellar door/craft brewer. Time the ride right and you (and your bike) can return to Victor Harbor on the Cockle Train, riding Australia’s oldest steel-railed railway.

Barossa Trail

Distance: 40km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

Cutting a line through one of Australia’s premier wine regions, this ride is a Barossa Valley highlights reel, and must qualify as one of the country’s (not just SA’s) best family bike rides. It begins at the edge of Gawler (at Gawler’s eastern edge, though it’s a 5km ride to the start from the Gawler Central railway station at the northern end of Adelaide’s train network) and makes it way north through Lyndoch, Tanunda, Nuriootpa and Angaston.

The ride is a mix of roadside bike paths and rail trail, running beside the busy Barossa Valley Way from Gawler to Rowland Flat, where it turns away from the road and into the most interesting, scenic and challenging of the trail’s sections.

Following the North Para River, this section has several steep (but short) pinches and some tight switchbacks, the effort of which is relieved by the vineyard views and the presence of a trio of cellar doors: Jacob’s Creek, St Hugo and St Hallett. Just past St Hallett, the trail returns to the edge of the Barossa Valley Way, following it through Tanunda and out to Nuriootpa. The trail here is ruler straight and steamroller flat, with vineyards stretching away either side.

Weaving through the side streets of Nuriootpa, the ride turns east towards Angaston, a town as famous for its dried fruit and horses as its wines. Following the course of the old Barossa Valley railway line, the ride ascends 100m between ‘Nuri’ and Angaston, finishing at the Barossa Adventure Station, which features a 1km MTB loop if you fancy a bit more riding.

Melrose

Distance: 230m-6.6km  Grade: Easy to Advanced  Bike: MTB

Scratched into the slopes of Mt Remarkable, the tallest peak in the southern Flinders Ranges, the Melrose trail network covers around 100km, split into three sections: Melrose Town Trails, Bartagunyah and Willowie Forest.

The Melrose Town Trails form the heart of the network. Leaving from the very centre of town, they set off in all directions across and up the slopes of the mountain. The signature trails are arguably Weaving Camels and Dodging Bullets. The former is a 1km blue (intermediate) trail that rolls along the banks of Willochra Creek, set beautifully among large river red gums and functioning as an access trail to the southern end of the network. Here, the blue Big Rhua and a selection of black trails coil up the slopes to Wilburs Watch, offering the accomplished young shredders of your family the chance to ride to a ridge-top building with extensive views over Melrose and the flat earth well beyond.

Willowie Forest, 8km north of town, has good offerings for novice riders, especially on the flowing Twisted Sisters, which is one of the region’s best family bike rides. Bartagunyah, on a private property 5km south of town, is a more unmaintained, rough-and-ready collection of trails.

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Going at the speed I am, there’s very little chance of seeing the famous furball; everything is a blur, and my fellow riders and I are hooting and hollering so loudly that even if it was nearby, Bigfoot would have either scarpered, or hunkered down with its fingers in its ears until these noisy two-wheeled trespassers had gone by.  Oregon will do that to you; make you lose inhibitions as you immerse yourself in the colossal amount of adventure the state has to offer. For me, that deep dive meant trying to jam in as much of said adventure as I could over one week. Pressure? Well, maybe there was some, but this ride sure wasn’t a bad way of coping with that. And it was just, really, the beginning…

Best laid plans of bikes and men

My first memories of Oregon are from my early childhood and revolve around the legend of Bigfoot (also known as ‘Sasquatch’ in the Halkomelem First Nations language) and that elusive creature’s presence in this spectacular part of the Pacific Northwest region of North America. Even as a kid, growing up in small-town coastal Australia, I never lost that fascination with Oregon; not with Bigfoot itself, nor the land in which it resided. Big mountains, big rivers, a bloody big ocean and big adventure all seemed to define Oregon. I just had to wait a few decades to confirm that image in my young mind.

My master plan hadn’t started well that previous day; a flight delay from Vancouver to Portland meant my plan of a day-early start to my Oregon road trip had already been stymied. Instead of a day poodling around Portland, checking out this magic city’s craft breweries – as well as its hand-made bicycle scene – I arrived eight hours later, in the full throes of jetlag, only staying alert enough to remember to keep on the opposite side of the road that I was used to as I drove to the hotel. My grand plan seemed in tatters until my subdued spirits copped a small uplift just after I grabbed my room key. Off to the side of the hotel foyer was a room – only a small room – but one that hinted at big promises: a miniature bike-building workshop, where visitors could re-assemble their bikes after arrival, ready for a day of riding. I didn’t have a bike (yet), but just the fact a city hotel had this facility was enough for me to think I was in the right place. I just needed a little more confirmation…

The knobby tyre centre of excellence

“It’s called Dead Mountain Trail,” Marcello Ojerio, of TransCascadia Excursions, says to me, with a big grin. I am up near the top of said mountain with Marcello and his partner, Heidi, just outside the small town of Oakridge, nestled in the middle of the Cascade Mountains. It’d been a two-hour drive from Portland to my Oakridge Lodge & Guest House digs and only an hour after that before Marcello had dragged me away from the siren call of the bed in my room to this lofty viewpoint. 

Oakridge may be ‘small’ in terms of population, but it casts an absolutely massive shadow, thanks to its title of International Mountain Biking Association (IMBA) Gold Ride Centre, of which there are currently only six in the world. You see, even though the town has a population of ‘just’ 3500-ish people, in the mountainous country surrounding it there are more than 450 kilometres of MTB trails. And yeah, I thought it was the perfect population to trails ratio as well. As we drove to the trailhead earlier Marcello had explained the evolution of Oakridge as a MTB destination in more detail.

“Mountain biking for Oakridge is still growing and has become an established part of its identity,” he said. “The area’s legacy trails have been explored by mountain bikers for decades – some are old trade routes established by Native Americans, others were constructed for access to fire lookouts. 

“As the sport has grown in popularity and Oakridge has become a known riding destination; people from all over the USA have started to purchase properties as residences or holiday rentals. When I first bought my house here in the early 2000s, the mountain bikers were regarded by locals as a curious bunch of adrenalin junkies, slightly mad for spending all day riding bikes in the woods.  I think the perception has changed over time; locals now have a real sense of pride that their town of Oakridge has become known internationally for its MTB excellence.  Visitors used to spend a day or two riding in the area just a few years ago.  Now we are seeing first-time visitors and return riders spending three days to a week.”

Before we descended Marcello led us on a short five-minute ride to a spectacular lookout point that offered views over the Cascade Mountains and the valleys below. This also gave me some idea of just how much trail there must be out in those mountains and valleys – and just how much time I would need to ride them all. The Dead Mountain Trail is, at just under 10km in length, a tiny portion of that immense trail network. Marcello explained that this first section of Dead Mountain Trail’s 1000-metre descent was a machine-built flow trail that would then lead into the second section, which was more ‘natural’ (read: narrower singletrack, rocks, roots, etc.). 

The trail itself was simply awesome. That Bigfoot-blurring speed mentioned earlier was interspersed with plenty of tyres-off-the-ground moments as we jumped off/over numerous kickers and rollers, hooking into the perfectly constructed berms at what seemed like death-wish speed, only to be flung out the other side moving even faster. The upper flow trail was a total hoot, while the lower, more ‘natural’ Flat Creek section was the perfect complement, with its narrow bumpy surface keeping you focused as small obstacles came up at speed to be negotiated. Sadly, it was over all too soon, although not before Marcello and Heidi revealed one more– and perfect – surprise.

To say the water running down from the surrounding mountains is a tad chilly (for us warm-water loving Aussies, anyway) is a slight understatement. However, it is amazing how little that chilly touch affects you when there’s a colder beer in hand, and you’re floating in a small pool just below a set of rapids in the North Fork of the Middle Fork of the Willamette River (Marcello laughed “we just call it The North Fork”). For Marcello and Heidi it gets better, with the TransCascadia Excursions office just across the road from this spot. Getting to ride some of the best trails in the world for work, then finish the day with a swim and cold beer must be a real struggle… 

Bend it, like…

I was in love. I had just arrived in Bend, Oregon’s famous adventure town and, even just driving through the streets I was already smitten with the vibe of the place. Everywhere I looked there were wagons and utes loaded up with bikes (mountain and road), kayaks, canoes, climbing and camping gear – all of which looked well loved and, more impressively, well used. It was a brilliant visual reinforcement of Bend’s reputation as a hub for adventurous types who aren’t interested in image, but the gritty, fun reality of an outdoor life. 

In fact, that affirmation that I had landed in adventure heaven had already been imprinted on my mind a few hours earlier when I had bypassed Bend on the way to nearby Terrebonne and Smith Rock State Park, the location of Smith Rock itself, one of the world’s premier rock-climbing destinations. To say it was a dream turned reality is to lean too heavily on that cliché, but it was pretty much what it felt like to see, up close, the vertical red rock walls that sprouted from the Crooked River Canyon that had defined so many US climbing legends.  

Besides the climbing there is plenty of walking and hiking here, from a leisurely, level stroll around the front ‘face’ of Smith Rock, where you can watch climbers, through to a zig-zagging track, amusingly dubbed the Misery Ridge Loop Trail, that climbs up high for some great views over the park. That had been the first highlight of me reaching the Bend region, and along with seeing all those adventure vehicles trundling around town, and the sheer variety of restaurants and breweries, plus the numerous bike shops and outdoor stores and outfitters (guides), made for a fantastic welcome to Central Oregon. The party, though, had only just started.

Ride to the clouds

I couldn’t see. Well, only just, and not due to any accident; just my serious lack of fitness that, coinciding with a more serious request for physical exertion, had led to my cycling glasses fogging up. I was grinding up a narrow dirt track on a mountain bike, fully laden with bikepacking gear (tent, sleeping gear, food, camera, one can of beer). I was following in the tyre tracks of Cog Wild Guide, Skyler Kenner, and had been since we left the trailhead at Tumalo Falls, winding our way up Northfork Trail on the first day of our overnight bikepacking trip.

I had spent the previous afternoon with Cog Wild owner Lev Stryker, chatting to him about the huge MTB scene in Bend – and its correspondingly immense trail network – before sourcing a bike from the team at Crow’s Feet Commons, a Bend bike store, that had been organised by Kristine. Lev had suggested the ride up along Northfork as it was one of the most picturesque rides near Bend. He wasn’t wrong; even though it was hard yards up Northfork Trail (we estimated our bikes to weigh around 22kg), the trail itself ran beside the North Fork of Tumalo Creek, and there were plenty of ride-stopping waterfalls along the way. In short, it was bloody beautiful. 

The 1000-metre ascent was never too steep in any one place, either, rather a gradual climb (with plenty of those waterfall stops) up to a junction at Happy Valley where the thick forest separated before a wide clearing, complete with babbling brook running through it. It made the slightly thinner air (around 1800 meters – a long way up for this sea-level dweller) I had to breathe worth it to be able to sit beside the running water and scoff lunch. 

We continued ascending, joining a couple of fire-roads (the 382 and then the 370) that entailed a few creek crossings (and a traverse of some snow) before finding the near-perfect campsite beside Broken Top Crater Creek. Surrounding us were a number of mountains, including Broken Top itself, along with Mt Bachelor and the Three Sisters (North, Middle and South). It was awesome country and, after that hard graft, was worthy of a small celebration that we’d allowed for when we packed our one beer can each. The beer was only topped by the evening sitting beside a warm campfire, before retiring to our tents – or, in Skyler’s case, his sleeping bag beside the fire. Sipping the beer with flames dancing in my eyes, I thought, how can it get any better? I should have thought harder.

Down to the river

Mountain biking is all about the downs and the return journey from our lofty camp was just that: an awesome 28km-long descent. I had to leave Bend by midday, so it was an early start. After re-tracing our route along part of the 370 fire-road, we tackled a short section of Metolius-Windigo Trail, before joining the 18km-long Mrazek. To say this would be the best trail I have ever ridden is no lie; with its combo of flowy, winding singletrack, interspersed with occasional small technical sections, and the continual descent, I wanted it go on forever. It was a sad moment when we eventually arrived back at Shevlin Park, for our pick-up and return to the Cog Wild office. Even sadder was the fact that, once I was showered and downed some lunch back in town, I had to scoot again. This time, south.

From the high mountains of Bend it’s only a couple of hours’ drive toward southern Oregon and another state wonder: Crater Lake National Park. The crater itself is the result of a massive volcanic eruption around 7500 years ago that resulted in a crater – and subsequent lake – that is 660 metres in depth. It’s an amazing sight. 

From the lake, my destination was the pretty Steamboat Inn, on the even more picturesque North Umpqua River. This was a great example of getting there being half the fun; the final hour of driving through the densely forested valleys of the Umpqua National Forest, was beautiful – and enticing, knowing that the famous North Umpqua Trail – an IMBA certified Gold Trail – shadows the highway. I added it to my already overflowing return trip itinerary. Matching the beauty of the surrounding landscape was the location of the inn itself, right on a bend of the North Umpqua River, and smack-bang in the middle of the 50km fly-fishing only section of the river. Here, anglers quest for the feisty ‘steelhead’ – a sea-going trout that can weigh between eight to 15 pounds – and practice catch and release. The inner angler in me itched to give it a crack but time was ticking and I had different waters to explore so, after a magic dinner and sleep in a cabin above the roaring river, it was back in the car the next morning .The coast was calling.

Southern comfort

I grew up on the far south coast of NSW – a region filled with fishing, farming and timber towns that offered a growing child the best natural playground you could ask for. Arriving in Bandon, on the Oregon south coast, after travelling along the oh-so-perfectly named Highway of Waterfalls, it felt just like home – in every good way possible. The town itself is nestled right on coast, abutting the Pacific Ocean. Surrounding it is a mix of hikes – including the excellent Oregon Coast Trail – and a number of mountain biking experiences, such as the Whiskey Run Mountain Bike Trail. This ‘trail’ actually comprises a network of nine trails, suited to riders from beginner through to advanced. How good are they? You’d have to ask the family I met at the trailhead who were from Colorado (itself a mountain biking icon). For them, it was the best trail network they’d ridden. ’Nuff said…

Besides the on-ground adventure, the south coast is, as you’d expect, packed with water-based activities, whether you prefer flatwater canoeing or ocean kayaking. Myself and Katera Woodbrige, Sales and Marketing for the Oregon Coast Visitors Association, had met up the day before, with Katera showing me some of the coastal walking on offer here. The beaches south of Bandon are vast and wide, with rugged rock formations, akin to castle turrets, dotting the water offshore. We also scored – randomly – a magical sunset boat cruise with Brian Kraynik of Coos Boat Tours, followed the next morning by a half-day kayak tour with Dave Lacey of South Coast Tours.

Exploring by kayak is one of the best ways to get close to both the coastline and also wild marine life, and this morning’s paddle out of Port Orford became proof of that. This part of the coast is dotted with small coves and broken off cliffs that now stand remote from the mainland, being slowly worn down by the power of the Pacific.

We’d not long got past the small breakers when Dave called out that he had spotted what he thought looked like a grey whale feeding – and it was, only about 100 metres from us. The luck with wildlife continued once we rounded Orford Heads with groups of harbour seals lounging around on rocks, and a number of sea birds flying over us. The picture-perfect morning had transformed into a day of the same ilk and it was with much regret that we turned around for home. And speaking of home, this was my last full day in Oregon, although there was still time – just – for a final sign-off.

The end. For now…

The streets were barricaded off, the band was getting louder and, in tandem, the crowd’s mood was becoming more buoyant, with smiles growing bigger by the minute. Oh, and my stomach was getting fuller which, yeah, I can explain. 

I was in a restaurant in Florence, another beautiful coastal town a couple of hours north of Bandon. I was enjoying the sweetest crab-meat patties I had ever eaten, tired but exhilarated after a full last day, and trying to recount every detail of my fast-blast Oregon road trip to a patient Meg Trendler, Tourism Sales Manager for Eugene, Cascades & Coast. And it wasn’t easy; I had so much to tell Meg about, from my unfortunate delayed-flight start, through the epic that was Oakridge, then onto Bend and the sublime south coast. Even the final road leg from Port Orford to Florence was filled with a veritable conga-line of adventure opportunities, with everything from dune buggy driving and horse riding tours, to more mountain biking and hiking.

Every time I recounted something memorable, Meg would add “there’s also this…” and my mental Oregon bucket list would expand, as would the shaking of my head as I tried to figure out how I thought a week in this state would be anywhere near enough. Still, between the two of us, our stories and ideas, I did come to realise the other reason the people outside were smiling so much: they live here – in Oregon – and can, if they wish, tackle a new adventure every single day. Not a bad place to live the life…

The author was a guest of Travel Oregon.

The post This could be heaven: Seven days of adventure in Oregon, USA appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Bass Coast Rail Trail

Distance: 17km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

Victoria’s only coastal rail trail is a 90-minute drive from Melbourne and combines mild and wild coastal views with one of the country’s most spectacular trestle bridges and the ghosts of the coal-mining days that spawned the railway and the towns along it.

The ride connects Wonthaggi to the bus interchange at Anderson (there are plans to extend the trail to Woolamai) and can be cycled in either direction – most cyclists will end up riding it both ways, returning to their car, making a half-day of it; this ride is one of many family bike rides with potential for a packed picnic lunch along the way. At the Anderson end, it threads through the old Kilcunda coal-mining area – said to be among the oldest coal mines in Victoria – before reaching the coast at Kilcunda. It stays on the shores only briefly, but spectacularly. 

Standing high above Bourne Creek, as it flows out onto Kilcunda Surf Beach, is a 91m-long trestle bridge that is one of the most striking structures along any of Victoria’s rail trails. To get perspective on the bridge, park your bike and head down onto the beach.

The trail veers inland again beyond the bridge, passing behind the coastal dunes and the six turbines of the Wonthaggi Wind Farm. A corridor of bush encloses the trail as it cuts through farmland and crosses another small trestle bridge, before passing the abandoned McBride tunnel entrance, another reminder of the area’s mining past. It’s just a few metres off the trail, and worth a look.

The trail – hard-rolled earth until now – turns sealed as it makes the final approach into Wonthaggi, finishing beside the old railway station, built in 1912 and now reconfigured as the town museum.

Main Yarra Trail

Distance: 22km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

Here’s proof you don’t need to pack your bike up and travel hours into the countryside to get in some off-road riding. Melbourne’s Main Yarra Trail starts – or finishes depending on your perspective – at Southbank in the CBD and meanders alongside the river it is named after, through the Victorian capital’s north-eastern suburbs.

The other end of the trail is widely judged to be Westerfolds Park in Eltham, partially because it is a logical place to park a car. But it is possible to ride further east toward Warrandyte. The surface can vary from gravel singletrack to concrete walkway and the level of traffic on foot and two wheels can reflect the fact it navigates through the heart of one of our greatest cities.

Despite its urban location, it is certainly possible to feel you’re far from the madding crowd on the Yarra Trail. On an isolated section, I once disturbed a large snake that then surfed away over the surrounding bushes to escape me – not that I wanted to chase it! There is another section where you meander through trees on singletrack immediately below the Eastern Freeway. For all that, the good news is that being so close to civilisation means coffee and a feed is never far away!

Falls Creek Gravel

Distance: Varies  Grade: Easy to Intermediate  Bike: Gravel

This iconic Victorian ski resort is now equally famous for its bike riding, with not only its lauded mountain bike trail network to keep riders occupied but also plenty of gravel riding routes, along the many multi-use trails branching out from and surrounding the village.

For instance, the Pretty Valley Lake Return is a 19km round trip on gravel roads perfectly suited to families and beginners. It will take around about 90 minutes unless you choose to stop for a picnic – and why wouldn’t you! 

From there, the challenges escalate, with the famous Tour of the Top worth a day’s ride, whether you’re a gravel beginner or more serious touring rider. At ‘only’ 16.1km it still tests your climbing legs as you grind your way up from the village centre to the turn-around (and highest) point of the ride, Mt McKay, at 1833m. Here, you are rewarded with memorable views across valleys to other mountains and alpine ridgelines. Then, you have the fun of the return leg, which is primarily downhill, back to the village start point. It’s a great way to get your bearings if you’re staying in the village and an even greater way to get those legs and lungs warmed up for more trails. 

Lilydale to Warburton Rail Trail

Distance: 39km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

Skimming the edge of the Yarra Valley wine region and setting out from the eastern terminus of Melbourne’s suburban train network, this popular rail trail is a gentle journey from the city to the fringe of the High Country. The trail’s climbs are few, and the primary one is at the beginning as the trail departs Lilydale, ascending without any ferocity to Mt Evelyn, 130 vertical metres above Lilydale.

The scenery is rural rather than Riesling – the Yarra Valley’s vineyards are all but out of sight – and there are towns every few kilometres along the trail past Wandin North, though only Yarra Junction sits directly on its path (Seville, Seville East and Woori Yallock are reached on short detours), creating an unexpected sense of removal and space so near to Australia’s second-largest city.

The approach into Warburton, as the trail skirts the High Country foothills, is like a date with the valley’s creator. Here, the Yarra River flows beside the trail, looking like anything but the wide brown waterway of Melbourne lore as it pushes out of the hills.

East Gippsland Rail Trail

Distance: 97km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Gravel/MTB

Gippsland is the patriarch of rail trails in Australia, with almost a dozen of these converted railways zipping across the lush region. Prime among them is this ride between Bairnsdale and Orbost, following a century-old railway line through the forests and farmland that define this eastern end of Victoria. The railway remains a true presence along the ride, with a number of historic trestle bridges keeping the trail company.

From Howitt Park, on the bank of the Mitchell River at Bairnsdale’s edge, the trail (colloquially known as the Easy Gippy Rail Trail) sets out across the floodplain, running sealed to Nicholson (and unsealed for the rest of the trail beyond), with occasional views south to the Gippsland Lakes.

Leaving Nicholson across the old railway bridge over the Nicholson River, the East Gippsland Rail Trail takes a sudden turn north, heading into Bruthen. Thirty kilometres from Bairnsdale, Bruthen makes the perfect lunch stop.

Another railway bridge leads over the Tambo River, where the trail begins climbing towards its highest point (129m above sea level) at Colquhoun. Just before reaching the apex, there’s a junction with the Gippsland Lakes Discovery Trail, a secondary rail trail that detours 25km south into Lakes Entrance – if you want to add the lakes to the Gippsland cycling experience, head away here.

The descent from Colquhoun bottoms out at Stony Creek, beside the trail’s signature feature – the 276m-long, 19m-high Stony Creek Trestle Bridge. With its 27 spans, it’s the longest bridge of its type to be found in Victoria. There are more trestle bridges ahead, including the curved O’Grady’s Bridge at Wairewa (which was badly burned in bushfires in 2020).

Related: The best family bike rides in NSW and the ACT

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Narrabeen Lagoon Trail, NSW

Distance: 8.4km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

This beautiful lagoon loop is found in Sydney’s Northern Beaches, and is a brilliant ride for all family members, with four picnic grounds along the way, and enough facilities (toilets, barbecues, cafes, etc.) to make a full day of it. This large coastal lagoon is a haven for native vegetation and birdlife – more than 190 bird species have been identified here.

You can start the ride from three locations – Berry Reserve off Pittwater Road, Jamieson Park (near The Esplanade) and Middle Creek Reserve, off Wakehurst Parkway. Our loop begins at Middle Creek Reserve and loops clockwise from there. The first section, between Middle Creek and Bilarong Reserve, takes you through lakeside vegetation before you reach the wide expanse of Bilarong Reserve, a huge open area that has a playground further to the east, picnic areas, and a large carpark. 

The next section, from Bilarong to Berry Reserve, is the only part where you will be close to traffic, as you cross Narrabeen Lake Bridge. There’s a separated (with barrier) bike path on the bridge, but please walk your bike across. Once at Berry Reserve, the track hugs the lagoon’s shoreline all the way to Jamieson Park before you turn inland a bit, and then winds around the south-eastern shoreline before a few big bridges over, firstly, South Creek and then, at journey’s end, Middle Creek. 

The Narrabeen Lagoon Trail is popular, sometimes crowded, and the track is a shared one (watch for prams, runners, walkers, etc.), but it is still a magic experience.

Bundanoon Cycling Route, NSW

Distance: 14km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

The Southern Highlands village of Bundanoon is the location of this easy 14km loop ride, with the bonus of some incredible views across Morton National Park from the high escarpment. Better still, you can make a weekend of it, with Gambells Rest campground, in the national park, offering excellent facilities (tent, camper and caravan sites, plus an all-weather shelter) for an overnight stay so you can explore more cycling routes (and walking tracks) nearby.

The Bundanoon route is a nice loop that takes in some of the park’s best lookouts, such as Tooths, Sunrise Point and Grand Canyon, all of which are reached via short walks from the cycling trail (you can’t ride your bikes to these lookouts – you must take a short walk). You pedal through forest thriving with banksias and other flowering plants, as well as tall eucalypts, and you will most likely spot a kangaroo or two, plus other wildlife, as you roll along. There is very little ascending along this route, except for Constitution Hill (turn down Gullies Road to avoid this if you’re riding with kids). In short, it’s the perfect two-wheeled family adventure.

Narooma-Dalmeny Coast Ride, NSW

Distance: 21km return  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

The NSW Eurobodalla Coast towns of Dalmeny and Narooma abut a coastline that is magnificent in its splendour, with golden beaches, inlets and, just off the coast, Barunguba (Montague Island). Thankfully, for two-wheeled visitors, there’s a brilliant bike path that links the two towns, allowing you to experience all these natural wonders up close, as you journey along one of the state’s most memorable family bike rides. 

The ride heads north from Narooma with the start at Riverside Drive, near the wharf at Wagonga Inlet. From here you follow the path beside the blue-green waters of Wagonga Inlet, toward Narooma Highway Bridge. After crossing the bridge, you join the (timber) Mill Bay Boardwalk and wind around toward the inlet’s mouth (stop at where fisher-folk clean their catch and you may spot one of the resident seals). As well as seals, keep an eye out for other marine life, such as rays, and fish, and – if you’re riding here in whale season – there’s a high chance of spotting these migrating giants, too. Continuing, you ride past wetlands (great for birdwatching) and then any number of beaches.

The ride is excellent when it comes to scenic outlooks; several viewing platforms along Kianga headland offer views over some of the best beaches in NSW (there are also picnic spots along this route). The sealed path continues all the way to Dalmeny Sports Club, your start/turn-around point for one of NSW’s most memorable family bike rides.

Bintang Matta Trail, NSW

Distance: 6.7km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

The Western Sydney Parklands covers 5280 hectares in area and includes more than 70km of paths and trails to explore, with the Binyang Matta Trail an ideal reasonable-length taster for those keen to see a cross-section of the rides on offer (the Binyang Matta Short Loop is an option for those with for toddlers on bikes). The Binyang Matta Trail starts at the Richmond Road carpark and takes riders along a flat sealed path that winds through forests, wetlands and grasslands, and crosses Eastern Creek as this waterway winds north-south through the parklands. 

There are barbecue areas, water resupply points, and plenty of scenic spots at which to stop and look for the area’s rich birdlife (Binyang Matta means ‘place of birds’ in the Dharug language). This is a wonderful leisurely-paced ride for all rider abilities and the paths are wide and flat throughout, with ample passing space (it’s a shared path) and, as mentioned, a number of benches on which to sit and take a break and have a snack in your own slice of paradise in the middle of Australia’s most populous city. 

For those after more riding in the parklands, Nurragingy Reserve, just south of the Binyang Matta Long Loop, is another of NSW’s great family bike rides, and will keep you busy (there are toilets in this part of the parklands, too).

Lake Burley Griffin, ACT

Distance: 35km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

When Walter Burley Griffin designed a lake at the heart of Canberra, he could easily have had cyclists in mind. Its shores are flat, its 35km circumference makes for a perfect few hours of pedalling and almost every national public building of note sits huddled along its edges. The lake is ringed by a shared-use path, which clings to the shores of the lake most of the way. The major deviations from its shores take you around Government House in Yarralumla, and through the Jerrabomberra Wetlands at the lake’s eastern end.

Doubling as a sightseeing tour of the national capital, the ride can be started anywhere along the lakeshore and be cycled in either direction. Navigation is simplicity itself – simply keep to the mostly sealed path beside the water. Highlights include the Parliamentary Zone, where riders pass the National Gallery, the flag-festooned High Court, and the monolithic National Library, with Parliament House set on a low hill behind. The foreshore precinct in Kingston – where the path returns to the lake after arcing out through the wetlands – and the avant-garde New Acton district offer more distractions.

The ride is pretty much a choose-your-own adventure. You can lap the lake in a two-hour burst, or linger in the National Arboretum, National Museum, or any of dozens of other lakeside diversions to draw the ride out across a full day. If you’re an early riser, it’s a beautiful dawn ride, when the rowers are on the waters, the hot-air balloons are in the sky, and the day and the lake are likely as still as a meditation.

The post The best family bike rides in NSW and the ACT appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Located 350km north of Sydney, the Barrington Tops region, which includes Gloucester Tops, is part of the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia. The Gondwana Rainforests are listed as World Heritage sites due to their unique landforms and species diversity of the over 40 regions covered along the east coast of Australia.  Barrington Tops National Park rises to over 1500m and protects one of the largest temperate rainforests in mainland Australia. 

A southern belle: Gloucester Tops

As you wind your way up Gloucester Tops Road, you climb and then you climb some more. It’s an easy drive but keep your eyes on the road, which is difficult given the spectacular views encountered along the way. The turnoff to the road to Gloucester Tops is seven kilometres before you hit Gloucester town if you’re coming up The Bucketts Way. (70km from the turn onto Bucketty’s Way from the A1 motorway).

Gloucester River campground is a gem and is found just inside Barrington Tops NP. The camp has tiered level sites for tents or camper-trailers. The camp kitchen is well maintained, and the amenities block has toilets. The Gloucester River burbles beside the picnic area, across the road from the campground and is a welcome relief after a day on the trails. In a truly magical experience, fireflies winked their way past our camp after dusk and the next morning a Superb Lyre Bird wandered through. It doesn’t take long to realise this is a very special part of the world.  

From the campground, it’s a 30-minute (16km) drive to the start of the Gloucester Tops Circuit. There’s an ample sized car park and toilet block and information board. It’s easy to see why this would be a busy spot during weekends, especially summer. The circuit is 8km and slated to take three to five hours according to the National Parks notice board. It’s not long once you have left the car park that you arrive at the Andrew Laurie Lookout. Be prepared to soak in the view and the remarkable story of Andrew Laurie. He was a war veteran from the region who led the way in establishing dedicated walking trails within the Barrington National Park region, particularly Gloucester Tops. The Laurie family were one of the first settlers to the area and still live in the community. The lookout offers a view over Andrew Laurie’s property. 

Trees and trails

After you’ve soaked in the views from the lookout you will first hear, then see, Gloucester Falls. If it’s a hot summer’s day, a wallow in the rock pools is incredibly satisfying. It’s a relatively easy scramble down to the falls and its pools. Following the track in a clockwise direction, there’s an easy cut through track to the car park or you can stretch your legs and go along the Gloucester River track which links to the Antarctic Beech Forest walking track. This walk meanders along the river’s sub-alpine woodland, which has a wonderful array of blossoms in the warmer months and plenty of bouncing fauna to keep an eye out for. Once you enter the Antarctic Beech forest a cool temperate rainforest greets you along with tree ferns and a carpet of moss, all hiding under the magnificent beech trees towering above you. The 8km walk finishes back where it started at the car park. 

If you’d like to spend a full day on the trail, then the Mountaineer-Glowang Trail leaves from the Gloucester River Picnic area, just a few hundred metres from where the Gloucester Tops Circuit commences. The Mountaineer-Glowang Trail is a 15km one-way walk and concludes (or starts) at Wangat/Middle Ridge Road. It is a walk that follows a ridgeline and climbs several peaks, including The Mountaineer. It’s as remote a walk as you can want and so prepare well for it, including letting someone know when you expect to get back. The weather can be quite changeable in this alpine region so be mindful of that before you set out. 

Back-tracking in the Barringtons

Now that we’ve covered off the southern section of Barrington Tops NP, you must back-track down Gloucester Tops Road. As you head out there is a signed turnoff to Barrington Tops (approx 5km down the Gloucester Tops Road) which takes you through Rawdon Vale into Barrington Tops NP. It’s an easy backtrack and passes through stunning farmland to get to the park. 

Keep an eye out for Cobark Lookout on the eastern edge of Barrington Tops State Forest. It’s a beautiful viewing platform and a perfect spot for a cuppa and to soak in one of the many stunning views you will see during your time here. 

First things first

Turning into Pheasants Creek Road from Barrington Tops Forest Road at Honey Suckle Picnic area, opens up a selection of great camp spots and is a nice loop road that connects to Tubrabucca Road which joins back onto Barrington Tops Forest Road, right near The Firs, a stand of Douglas firs, planted in 1966. They were planted as a test to the commercial viability of the tree in the high altitude of the Barringtons.

The dark and moody nature of the closely planted fir trees is very different to the open eucalypt forests just metres away. We spotted a Lyrebird family as we crept through. An amazing experience to see the male dancing to his mate before leading them away in a hurry once they realised we were there.  

Camps along Tubrabucca Road

The Manning River campground is a very nice spot with flat campsites, toilets, and a pleasant bush outlook. It is located in the Barrington State Forest and if you’re an angler, well worth a few casts (you will need a NSW recreational fishing licence). The Manning flows for over 260km from the Barringtons to the ocean near Taree. 

Gummi Falls campground is a stunner. There are two separate camping areas with a nice little walking trail following Gummi Creek connecting the campgrounds. The camp has your typical national park amenities block. In spring, yellow flushes of Scotch Broom line the creek and while looking beautiful, it is an introduced weed. Its prevalence throughout the Barrington region looms as the greatest threat to the stability of this fragile wilderness. You can join the Broom Bash, which is an initiative to eradicate Scotch Broom and there are volunteer days where the species is targeted. Despite this, Gummi Falls is an excellent basecamp to put your pegs in the ground and explore the natural beauty of the area. The walk to the falls is short and Gummi Creek glistens beside you along the way. 

Horse Swamp campground isn’t a swamp at all. It’s a lovely small camp area with toilets and you are surrounded by Barrington eucalypt stands and the wonderful array of birds that reside there. Very secluded and very peaceful. Polblue Campground, along Barrington Tops Forest Road, is a jewel in the national park. It is a very large campground, with excellent facilities and a community shelter containing a sizable fireplace, which in winter would be popular as it snows regularly. The Polblue Swamp Track departs from the campground and is an easy 3km loop, traversing platforms that take you across the swamp and creek. It is a brilliant way to see the biodiversity that makes the Barringtons beloved by so many.

A word of warning: if it has been snowing, Polblue Campground gets overrun with snow-seekers as a bonkers amount of people converges on the Barringtons. Every inch of the 47 campsites at Polblue gets taken up. Plan that snow trip during the week, not on a weekend. 

Barrington Fire Trail camps

This trail, traversing the park’s southern section, is recommended for 4WD vehicles only (or, if you’re keen, you can jump on a mountain bike to explore it), and it can be closed in winter and wet weather. Little Murray Campground is 5km along the trail and Junction Pools around 13km down the trail. There are a few trails leading off the Barrington Fire Trail for the intrepid 4WD traveller. Best check with the local NPWS office in Gloucester (02 6538 5300) for track access. 

Little Murray campground is a purler of a spot, and this writer’s personal favourite. A flat open area with a toilet, surrounded by Scotch Bloom, the earth is like a mossy carpet underfoot. Lots of wildlife and Little Murray Creek trickling at the edge of the campground. The bird chorus is a constant soundtrack, and we experienced a herd of feral horses coming through camp for an evening grass pick. There are warning signs that young male horses can be quite aggressive in mating season, so remember that they are wild animals and do not approach them.  

Further along the track you will find remote Junction Pools campground, the stepping off point for the Aeroplane Hill walking trail. The camp area is small, uneven and despite a lovely vista it wouldn’t be our preference, given the other camping options available. That said, there is a vast network of walks (for the well prepared) in the area. 

Walking on air

The Aeroplane Hill walking track leaves Junction Pools campground and is a 6km one-way walk through the region’s high peaks, with Carey’s Lookout a highlight along the way. Another day walk is the Edwards Swamp Track, a 7 kms one-way track which connects to the Corker Trail and the Link Trail connecting Carey’s Peak to Gloucester Tops. You can camp at the walk in Black Swamp campground. The Edwards Swamp Track links back onto the Barrington Fire Trail, a short walk from where you commenced. 

The Corker trail is a challenging two-day walk and only for the fit and experienced bushwalker. It’s a 20km return hike exploring rugged mountain country. There is the option to camp at Wombat Creek. The Link Trail between Gloucester Tops to Carey’s Peak is another epic at 38km return. This trail allows for mountain biking and follows a tree-lined ridge which separates the Kerrepit and Chichester rivers. 

These adventure walks are in remote areas. Plan accordingly and advise someone where you are heading and when you’ll return. The weather in these high-altitude climates can change in a heartbeat so make sure you are very well prepared. Many other walks and trails exist in the national park. Check the NPWS Barrington Tops’ page for a comprehensive list. 

The Barrington Tops region: A nature lover’s playground

The Barrington Tops region is truly wild. It does require some planning to enjoy the full scope of what is on offer. The camping areas get packed in summer and when there’s been snowfall. The walks offer the same variety; some are easy and for the inexperienced, others you need to really plan for.

Wherever you are in the Barrington Tops region you will be astounded by the dramatic nature of the landscape and the array of flora and fauna at every turn. A week here will only scratch the surface, but that just makes the perfect excuse to return to again and again, all year round… Just watch out for the weekend crowds if it’s been snowing.

See Barrington Coast for more info on the Barrington Tops region. 

The post Going high: Explore the Barrington Tops region, NSW appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Liffey Falls

Distance: 2km return  Time: 45 minutes  Difficulty: Easy

South of Mole Creek, the Great Western Tiers stretch east for about 80km, a brooding range of ragged bluffs dotted with alpine tarns and rivers that drain over picturesque waterfalls and through rainforested river valleys. This lovely, short walk will take you past four main cascades, starting upstream with Alexandra Falls, then Hopetoun Falls, Albert Falls and Victoria Falls (the last one is generally known as Liffey Falls). Myrtle, sassafras, and leatherwood trees dominate this cool temperate rainforest. Magnificent tree ferns and enormous eucalypts line the path to these prettiest of Tasmanian waterfalls and if you are quiet, you might spot pink robins, green rosellas, and superb fairy-wrens. 

The Liffey Falls State Reserve was included within the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area in 1989. Nearby you can visit Liffey River Reserve, an area of riparian rainforest, wet sclerophyll forest and open grassland that was saved by former leader of the Australian Greens, Bob Brown. He raised funds to buy the land in 1991, and in the process created the charity Bush Heritage Australia. There is a 3.5km walking trail through the reserve. You can also visit Oura Oura Reserve with its white cottage beneath Dry’s Bluff, Brown’s home for almost 40 years. 

Hobart Waterfront & Battery Point

Distance: 6km circuit  Time: 2 hours  Difficulty: Easy

Hobart has one of the best deepwater ports in the world. Its docks, once bristling with the masts of sailing ships, are lined with honey-coloured stone Georgian warehouses with the modern city rising behind, framed by its guardian mountain kunanyi/Mt Wellington (1271m). The docks are still busy with fishing boats, high-tech superyachts, tourist cruisers and Antarctic exploration vessels but these historic warehouses and factories now contain art galleries, restaurants, and offices. A set of sandstone steps leads from Salamanca Place, on the southern side of the waterfront, up to Battery Point. One of Australia’s oldest suburbs, Battery Point, was in days gone by the home of mariners who worked out of the port. This walk, through its narrow lanes and charming colonial-era cottages, is an invitation to explore the rich history of this area.

Start on the corner of Hunter and Davey Street where signs and several bronze markers in the pavement indicate the former coastline before Hunter Island was artificially joined to the waterfront. Passing the repurposed IXL Jam Factory that operated here until the 1960s, turn right onto Franklin Wharf and cross the swing bridge. The next dock on your right is the famous Constitution Dock with the historic Customs House in the background. This is where the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race contestants moor after the race. The long glass and steel building opposite is the Institute for Marine and Antarctic Studies where you might see the Australian Antarctic Division’s icebreaker, the Aurora Australis, moored. Head through Parliament House Gardens to Salamanca Place where there are many wonderful eating spots, then climb Kelly Steps to wander the streets of Battery Point. Return via St Davids Park and Franklin Square to reach Macquarie Street’s grand historic sandstone buildings – the General Post Office to the left and the Hobart Town Hall to the right. Turn left onto Argyle Street to visit the Maritime Museum Tasmania or continue to the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery where you can finish your walk at the courtyard cafe.  

Wineglass Bay Circuit

Distance: 11km circuit  Time: 4.5 hours  Difficulty: Medium

Freycinet National Park, one of Australia’s finest, is best known for Wineglass Bay, a perfect arc of aqua-marine sea with a fine rim of white sand. Tucked behind the peachy-rose granite knuckles of the Hazards range, some effort is required to see it, which perhaps adds to the appeal. The bay is hidden from view on the eastern coast of the park and requires a steepish half hour climb to the Wineglass Bay lookout. This is a busy trail and many daytrippers stop right here but it’s much more rewarding to take this longer circuit and take your time to explore this enchanting peninsula. From the lookout, weather permitting, you can see across Wineglass Bay with Cape Forestier on your left. The tall mountain sitting above the bay is Mt Graham with the taller Mt Freycinet to its right. 

The track now becomes narrow and rocky as it leads down a steep, south-facing, shady gully forested with tall blue gums, Tasmanian blanket bush and saggs, towards Wineglass Bay. After spending some time on this celebrated beach, you’ll turn your back on it to head west across the peninsula past Hazards Lagoon along the flat Isthmus Track towards Hazards Beach. In the understorey you may, at different times of the year, find botanical delights such as the yellow, clustered pea flowers of the native daphne, the dainty white sprays of heath myrtle (which in Tasmania can only be found in the Bicheno to Coles Bay area), white kunzea and guitar plant, as well as a host of epacrids. The rich plant life attracts fantails, robins, thornbills, and wattlebirds.

Heading north from Hazards Beach, the track undulates over granite boulders, tree roots and creek crossings, with many fine views both out to the coast and inland to the spectacular granite tors above.  

Dove Lake Upper Circuit

Distance: 14km circuit  Time: 4–5 hours. Difficulty: Hard

Cradle Mountain sits at the northern end of the Cradle Mountain–Lake St Clair National Park and is part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area. The park’s ancient rainforest, spiky mountains, alpine moorland, glacial lakes and rare Gondwanan flora and fauna make for a unique and spectacular wilderness. The Dove Lake circuit is one of the country’s best loved walks and while it is magical to wander the shores of the lake as the jagged dolerite peaks of Cradle Mountain loom above you, the challenging upper circuit offers magnificent views and a truly rewarding taste of the alpine wilderness. 

From Dove Lake, the walk heads anti-clockwise to the photogenic boat shed on the shore of the lake before climbing through a forest of deciduous beech (Nothofagus gunnii) to Marion’s Lookout. Here the bracing high country winds might keep you from lingering too long over the spectacular view. The track continues to Kitchen Hut, an emergency shelter, before joining the Face Track, passing below Cradle Mountain (1545m) and Little Horn (1355m) on the way to Hansons Peak (1185m). A steep scramble down from the peak leads to a gentle descent through forest on the Lake Rodway Track, before re-joining the track around the shore of the lake. 

Along the way you’ll see delicate alpine vegetation such as the cushion plant, colourful pandani trees, pencil pines and possibly even a grazing wombat. This is a steep and sometimes taxing walk but is the next best thing to doing the Overland Track if time is limited. You’ll need a topographic map, available from the park visitor centre, and to be well equipped with clothing for all weather, plus snacks to keep you going. The visitor centre can also provide details for many other wonderful short walks in the area.  

South Coast Track

Distance: 85km one way  Time: 7–9 days  Difficulty: Hard

This epic adventure runs between Melaleuca and Cockle Creek in the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area. The trip can take walkers seven to nine days, carrying a full backpack for five to six hours a day. You’ll traverse vast button-grass plains, wild tannin-stained rivers, creeks and lakes, expansive beaches, majestic sea cliffs, memorable campsites, and the midway challenge of crossing the mighty Ironbound Range.

You’ll be confronted by unbelievable mud, unpredictable weather and strong winds, as the track is abutted on its southern and northern sides by the wild Southern Ocean and the wilderness area encompassed in the Southwest National Park. Immersing yourself in one of the world’s last true wilderness areas is not easy but it has just the right amount of challenge, mixed with a dose of spectacle that makes the effort more than worthwhile.

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I’ve been itching to return to New Zealand to ski for a decade but renovating houses and having babies has put it on the back burner, until the lure to see its jagged mountain peaks proved too strong to resist. The snow in Australia has been lacklustre for what feels like seasons, and I figure that if I’m to cough up thousands of dollars for a ski holiday I may as well revisit some of my favourite hills in NZ. Except here, they’re not hills. They’re jagged and far more intimidating. I look toward the lone snowboarder, but he’s gone.

When the light falls

Hiking into the backcountry, or even the side-country (within or next to the resort), isn’t why I’m over the back of The Remarkables. I’m here to check out a bowl of powder I recall from my first visit 15 years earlier. The bowl sits to my left, beneath an advanced trail skirting its perimeter. Off the trail there are expert runs, likely full of powder, but I can barely make them out. Again, the slopes are masked by low cloud and low light. I think of my two kids and husband back at the base lodge and I am reminded that now, the very start of our two-week snowboarding road trip, isn’t the time to take risks. And so, I accept that the bowl will have to wait until next time and I point my board down the runs beneath the chair. It turns out that navigating my way back to the lodge in poor light is challenging enough. It’s the last run of the day – a mercy solo dash to the bowl before we scoop up the kids and return to The Rees Hotel, a five-star Queenstown property overlooking Lake Wakatipu. 

Green skiing

Part of our reason for staying at The Rees and visiting Queenstown in general is the sustainability focus of both hotel management and the city council. The Rees is Qualmark certified as a Sustainable Tourism Business, and environmental practices range from the simple inclusion of compostable bags for guest amenities to installing double-glazed windows for energy efficiency and the use of grey water on the gardens.

All of this might seem irrelevant if you’re driving a vehicle up a mountain every day and being one of thousands lapping chairlifts in the indulgent pursuit of skiing, but the alternative is staying in accommodation that does none of this. It’s also heartening to hear of Queenstown Lakes District Council’s goal to decarbonise the visitor economy by 2030. It’s a lofty plan that extends to The Remarkables, one of two ski resorts close to Queenstown. The resort aims to also be carbon neutral in six years, and among management’s first steps is trialing a diesel/electric hybrid snow groomer and purchasing carbon credits. 

NZSki sister resort Coronet Peak, with its sheer faces and fun gully-like runs, is also taking steps to lessen its impact on the environment. Along with carbon offsetting, there is the planting of native grasses in summer, and a pest trapping program to help protect the kārearea, New Zealand’s only falcon. Coronet was the first commercial ski field in New Zealand, opening in 1947. Although some skiers know it by its cheeky moniker “concrete peak”, we had a blast zipping to the far boundaries of the resort and spying on the kids in snowboard school and ski Kindy. There’s no bowl but there are plenty of fun, challenging runs, as well as cruisers that are wide enough to take little people on.

Glenorchy the great

A good way to reconcile your love of the outdoors with your desire to look after it is to support businesses that walk the talk. That’s how I came to find The Great Glenorchy Alpine Base Camp, in the small lakeside community of Glenorchy, 45 minutes’ drive from Queenstown. It’s a mean feat to pull my family of snow bunnies away from the slopes, but one look at the camp’s mountaineer-style huts and I had to see them for myself.

As far as aesthetics go, the owners have nailed the rustic vibe, with our family cabin decked out in timber furniture, tartan woollen blankets, a YETI cooler for DIY supplies, and a fireplace with a stack of pre-cut firewood (and old wax wraps for fire-starters). The kids are in heaven when they spot their bunk bed, while I swoon over the cosy-ness of it all. I count us lucky for having secured a cabin because even though the base camp is new, it’s not designed to be used as a hotel. Rather, the owners have built the camp as a place to stay before and after “wild nature experiences” that include heli-hiking, heli-skiing, mountaineering, and family hiking and picnicking. Had I been aware of such epic but manageable adventures prior to my visit, I would’ve been tempted to book one. Instead, base camp staff encourage us to explore on our own and make the most of the little time we have in Glenorchy. Aside from using sustainable building materials and encouraging social connection between staff and guests, their ethos centre around the importance of getting “into the wild” and embracing slow travel.

A stroll in the woods

Although we’ve only spent a night at the base camp, I trust the advice we’ve been given, and we leave our snowboards zipped away in the back of our hire car and venture into the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Routeburn Valley. The adventure starts with the kind of drive during which you’re not entirely sure if you’re ever going in the right direction. Roads narrow, they cross rivers, undulate along farmland, and travel through thick forest. Eventually we pull up at a car park with an information and toilet block called Routeburn Shelter. There’s a trio of rangers possibly taking a morning tea break, and a couple of other hikers. 

A short skip toward the forest is a suspension bridge above a running river, sparking the imaginations of our children. The morning is cool and we’re not in great hiking gear, but we’ve chosen the Routeburn Nature Walk, a one-hour (return) hike in Mount Aspiring National Park. We let our minds get carried away and make up stories about mossy creatures and mini adventure seekers. We cross paths with the popular Routeburn Track, a 33-kilometre one-way trek that takes two to four days to complete. Often, serious walkers rush by, but we meander along, up and down a path that’s laden with thick, damp leaf litter, and crowded by towering, vibrant trees.

The Nature Walk reminds of me of the mossy Enchanted Walk at Tasmania’s Cradle Mountain, and the kids thrive. Of course, as often is the case, it takes us almost double the allotted time, and we’re hankering for a feed afterwards. And so, we extend our stay in Glenorchy, and now have time to chat to locals and appreciate the majesty of the mountains, rivers, and forests around us.

Fact file

The 2024 ski season at The Remarkables is from 15 June to 13 October. You’ll always get the best lift-ticket deals by purchasing online, well in advanced of your visit.

For skiing around Queenstown, stay at The Rees Hotel, where there are multi-room suites with wide views of Lake Wakatipu, and the award-winning True South Dining Room.

Make the most of a visit to Glenorchy by booking a nature package with The Great Glenorchy Alpine Base. Head into the valleys and onto mountains with an expert guide, and then return to camp for a sauna, campfire, and incredible camp-oven meal. The Routeburn Nature Walk is suitable for active toddlers under their own steam, as well as a great hike for parents wearing baby carriers, and anyone else seeking a micro adventure. If you go in winter, wear layers that you can remove.

There is plenty more than skiing and hiking in and around Queenstown. Known as the adventure capital of New Zealand, you’ll find bungee jumping, sky diving, jet boating, whitewater rafting and mountain biking.

For more on travel to New Zealand, see here.

The writer travelled with assistance from Destination Queenstown, Tourism New Zealand, The Rees Hotel and NZSki

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The Valley of the Winds

Distance: 7.4km circuit  Time: 3 hours  Difficulty: Medium

The domes of Kata Tjuṯa lie about 30km to the west of Uluru, visible across a low sand plain. Although lesser known than the great rock in the distance, they are easily as beautiful, if not more so. The Anangu name means ‘many heads’ and there is something curiously lifelike about the smooth, high domes huddled together. Between them, the cool, deep valleys have the mystery and silence of a cathedral. Unlike the more accessible snake legends of Uluru, the meaning of this place must remain mysterious. Its sacred stories are considered men’s business and under Tjukurpa (law) cannot be revealed to the uninitiated. Many people don’t find the time to visit Kata Tjuṯa but those that do often find it surprisingly moving and impressive.

The Valley of the Winds walk takes you deep into the heart of the domes. From the carpark the path heads east to Karu Lookout, where there is a striking view into the valley. From here the trail switches back downhill and then continues east, passing close to a rock wall where you can inspect Kata Tjuta’s conglomerate more closely: the explorer Ernest Giles described it as rocks “mixed as plums in a pudding”. Reaching the valley floor, a trail junction marks the start of a loop where you turn right to climb towards Karingana Lookout. From here you pick your way carefully down the steep, rocky slope to cross a creek bed and emerge in open scrubland, before swinging north-west to a ridge where there are sweeping views back down the valley. Passing a water tank, the route heads south to follow the creek bed, lined with river red gums and bloodwoods, to complete the loop. From here you retrace your steps for half an hour to the carpark via Karu Lookout.   

Kings Canyon Rim

Distance: 7km circuit  Time: 3–4 hours  Difficulty: Medium

Named for a western quoll linked to a dreaming route of the local Luritja people, Kuninga/Kings Canyon is part of the George Gill Range, enclosed by Watarrka National Park. The 6km walk around the rim of the canyon is simply one of Australia’s very best half day walks. The walk begins with a steep climb to the top of the canyon, where a lookout reveals the sheer, 100m-high canyon wall, patterned by horizontal bedding planes, vertical water stains and myriad tiny hieroglyphic-like fissures. Later, you’ll meander through the Lost City where a grid of 350-million-year-old hairline cracks in the rock surface have been weathered down into hundreds of beehive domes. Many rare plants and 100 reptile species shelter in the crevices. There is little shade to be found on this walk, except in the Garden of Eden, a lush permanent waterhole lined with ferns, cycads and palm trees. There is also a shady short walk up Kings Creek with views of the canyon walls from below. 

This walk is deservedly popular, so you won’t be alone, but this is a big landscape. It’s best to start early so you can avoid the heat, linger in the many scenic spots, and soak up the atmosphere. In fact, when the temperature is forecast to be 36°C or above, walkers must undertake the Rim Walk before 9am. Although this is a shortish walk, it’s strenuous in the heat so take plenty of water.  

Ormiston Pound

Distance: 9km circuit  Time: 3–4 hours  Difficulty: Medium

The West MacDonnell ranges were once the height of the Himalayas. Now sanded down by 300 million years of wind and water, these long ridges, corrugated like a tin roof, contain some of the Red Centre’s most bewitching scenery. Permanent waterholes, abundant wildlife and relict tropical plants flourish in the gaps, gorges and chasms of the Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park. One of the most enticing gorges is Ormiston, which marks the entrance to the expansive Ormiston Pound, an amphitheatre of mountains. 

Starting from the visitor centre, the walk heads anticlockwise before crossing the bed of Ormiston Creek, lined with venerable river red gums. The path undulates across gullies and slopes, with intermittent views of Mt Sonder (1380m), amid corkwoods, bloodwoods, red-flowered grevillea and spinifex. After 45 minutes there are wonderful views of the Pound as well as Mt Sonder, Mt Zeil (1531m) and Mt Giles (1389m), the high point of the Chewings Range. Descending east from the lookout saddle into the Pound, the track swings north-west, and descends gradually to reach the sandy bed of Ormiston Creek, where you can either follow the creek downstream to some waterholes and shady gums or take a shortcut to rejoin the creek. Ascending the left bank where the waymarked track crosses the creek a second time, the path approaches the narrow entrance to Ormiston Gorge. There is a bit of rock-hopping in the gorge where the walls tower up to 250m high with gravity-defying ghost gums sprouting at unlikely angles from narrow shelves. At the track junction with the Ghost Gum Walk you can choose that longer, 1-hour route back to the visitor centre but you’ll forgo some of the finest gorge scenery. Consider camping at the gorge so you can spend more time here.  

Jarnem Loop

Distance: 7km circuit  Time: 2–3 hours   Difficulty: Medium

In the far north-west of the Northern Territory, the rugged jewel that is Keep River National Park sparkles with dramatic landscapes, intriguing wildlife and spectacular rock art. Just 700sq.km, this small and remote park lies a mere 3km east of the border with Western Australia and harbours beehive-shaped domes of striped sandstone and silica that are remarkably like WA’s Bungle Bungle range.

The Miriwoong and Gajirrabeng people have lived in this area for thousands of years – painting haunting images of ancestral beings and animal totems in the park’s caverns and rock shelters, feasting on freshwater mussels and building stone hunting traps.

This walk starts from Jarnem campsite, along a 2WD gravel road about 30km from the park entrance on the Kununurra to Katherine highway. Heading to the lookout first, the trail passes through open savannah and gradually climbs between craggy hills covered with clumps of spinifex. From the lookout, the whole expanse of the park can be seen, including the Bungle-like Kelly’s Knob formations. Heading down onto the plains, the paths winds close to the beehive domes amid boabs, bloodwood trees and cabbage-tree palms. Rock art is found in caverns on the way to beautiful Nigli Gap, a sheer-sided canyon traditionally used by the Miriwoong as dry passage when the plains were flooded. From here the trail returns to the campground. This walk is best done early in the morning or late in the afternoon – both in order to stay cool and for the rich colours of the sandstone revealed in low light.

On the way in or out, bird lovers should stop at Cockatoo Lagoon – a semi-permanent waterhole near the entrance – to spot some of the park’s 190 bird species, including herons, brolgas, jabiru, green pygmy-geese, wrens and finches. Note that saltwater crocodiles are found throughout this park and swimming is prohibited.   

Barrk Sandstone Walk

Distance: 12km circuit  Time: 5–6 hours  Difficulty: Medium

Established in three stages from 1979 to 1991, and World Heritage listed in 1992, Kakadu is Australia’s largest terrestrial national park, covering an area almost one-third the size of Tasmania (or the size of the nation of Israel). About one-third of Australia’s bird species have been recorded here, and it’s home to one-quarter of the country’s freshwater fishes. An estimated 15,000 rock-art sites, dating back as far as 20,000 years, are scattered across the park.

The stunning Barrk walk goes over and around Burrungkuy (Nourlangie Rock), a plateau that offers a glimpse into Kakadu’s grander stone country. Fractured sandstone rises in stacks and pinnacles and weaving through the small canyons in between is like wandering into a ruined Cambodian temple. Burrungkuy is also the canvas for two of Kakadu’s three major public rock-art sites, but like so much of the park, it has ancient art hidden everywhere. As this track descends the rock’s northern slopes and round its base, art peeps down from outcrops and decorates rock overhangs.

One of the longest and driest of Kakadu’s day walks, the Barrk track begins along the base of Burrungkuy, ascending though gullies to the sandstone plateau. The climb is steep at times, but feels hardest atop the dry plateau, where you’re exposed to the heat. Descending a gully to woodland at the base, there is a short side track to Nanguluwur art site where paintings depict spirits, animals, and a sailing ship. The rest of the route follows more open country with excellent views of the western cliffs of Burrungkuy.

Park authorities recommend that on a dry track such as Barrk, walkers carry at least a litre of water for every hour. The walk is open year-round – most people walk in the dry season (May–Sep) but some walkers claim the wet season is the most spectacular time to walk.    

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Bluff Knoll

Distance: 6km circuit  Time: 3–4 hours  Difficulty: Hard

Bluff Knoll (1095m) is the crown jewel of the Stirling Range, the highest peak in southern WA, and the only place in the state to get snow with any frequency. Naturally there are outstanding 360 degree views from the summit on a clear day. But swirling winds at the top mean that cloud can close in quickly. In fact, the local Aboriginal people’s name for the range, Koi Kyenunu-ruff, means ‘mist rolling around the mountains’. The walk starts from the Bluff Knoll lookout and picnic area. After a kilometre there is some shade by an ephemeral waterfall. The trail now turns south across the mountainside before crossing a saddle and swinging north to follow the ridge to the summit. Here you can see the southern ocean beyond blue peaks and a patchwork of fields below. Many walkers like to stay for sunset but make sure you take a torch for the descent.

The Stirlings are the remnants of an ancient sea, consisting of many layers of sedimentary rock – mostly sandstone and silt-stone – deposited over a long period, beginning 1.8 billion years ago. As the stone weathers differently, the alternating hard and soft sedimentary layers give the Stirlings their characteristic jagged edges and steep cliffs. As you climb to Bluff Knoll exposed outcrops reveal these layers in the rock. 

Like the neighbouring Porongurups, this park has incredible biodiversity. More than 1500 native flowering plant species have been identified, with more than 80 found nowhere else. The different soil types and elevations have resulted in a variety of vegetation communities, from wetlands to woodlands, thicket and mallee-heath. The taller peaks above 750m also house a unique ‘montane’ ecosystem. Flower-lovers should plan to walk from Aug–Nov.

Both the Stirling and Porongurup ranges are deep-seated in the culture of the local Noongar people, but they have different meanings to different groups, depending on their location and the view of the ranges from their traditional lands. To the Goreng of Gnowangerup, north of the range, the Stirlings are a place of great significance, only visited on important occasions. Bluff Knoll is also known as Bular Mial, or ‘many eyes’. The Goreng believe it is where their spirits go after death, and the eyes are their ancestors watching over them.

Piccaninny Gorge

Distance: 14km return  Time: 3–4 hours  Difficulty: Easy

One of Australia’s most remote and magnificent national parks, Purnululu National Park was listed as a World Heritage Site in 2003, yet many Australians had never heard of it. The distinctive sandstone beehive domes of the Bungle Bungle Range are found in the southern area of the park where the Piccaninny Creek bed winds through this surreal landscape of rippled rock. The Piccaninny Gorge Trail (30km return) is a long trail for experienced walkers – one of the best walks in the park is to start this trail, following the dry bed of the creek until the ‘elbow’ bend or whenever you’ve had enough and then return, for this provides spectacular perspectives on the domes the whole way. About 5km from the start there is a turnoff for Whipsnake Gorge, a small, shady gorge filled with rock figs and ferns, and this is also a good spot to aim for, have a rest, then turn back. 

The 50km access road is a rough, high-clearance, 4WD-only track that keeps the number of ground visitors low but this park has an otherworldly beauty well worth the effort to get here – especially if you can stay a few nights. The pebbles in the dry creek bed can be a bit hard on your feet so make sure you wear sturdy shoes. Also take plenty of water, it can be very hot and there is no reliable drinking water. The park is only open in the dry season, April to November.

Kings Park Explorer

Distance: 7.7km circuit  Time: 2 hours  Difficulty: Easy

London has Hyde Park, New York has Central Park, Perth has Kings Park. At 4sq.km, this is the largest area of natural bushland to be found near the CBD of any Australian state capital. It is the city’s pride and joy and that is reflected by the number of Perth locals who use it for recreation – over 5 million people visit every year. This walk takes you through the Botanic Gardens, on the Federation Walkway (with a very impressive 222m-long glass and steel viewing bridge that rises to a height of 16m and allows visitors to walk through the tree tops) and through bushland that contains 291 different species of native plants.

Start at the visitor centre to pick up a map, then follow the path down to the large, silver arch which marks the entrance of the Botanic Garden, turning right at the entrance. Soon you’ll come to a stand of boab trees including Gija Jumulu, the giant boab, which was moved from its natural habitat in the Kimberley to Kings Park. Follow the path through the tuart trees (a remnant of the original vegetation) where you’ll see the Pioneer Women’s Memorial lake and statue to your right. Just before the viewing bridge is the Mt Eliza Lookout which gives views over the meeting of the Swan and Canning Rivers. At the end of the walkway follow the signs for Roe Gardens and the Place of Reflection where the path joins Forest Drive. After approximately 300m bear left into the Broadwalk, a long, narrow sweep of lawn reminiscent of a grand English country estate. You can climb the DNA tower to catch a glimpse of the Indian Ocean to the west, named for its resemblance to the double helix of a DNA molecule. At the end of the Broadwalk swing right to head towards the Saw Ave Picnic Area, then take the dual-use path through bushland, fullof wildflowers in spring, up to the Lotterywest Family Area. Follow the signs back to the visitor centre.  

Walpole to Peaceful Bay

Distance: 63km one way  Time: 3 days  Difficulty: Medium

Anyone walking in Western Australia must attempt a section of the mighty Bibbulman Track, stretching 1000km from Kalamunda in the Perth Hills, to Albany on the south coast. Naturally the track offers landscapes for every taste and many ways to tackle it, from self-sufficient camping adventures to fully guided walks or relaxed day walks from a township base. The section from Walpole to Peaceful Bay encompasses some of the best scenery in WA – the massive red tingle trees of Walpole, tranquil Frankland River and magnificent coastal views from Conspicuous Cliff and Rame Head. 

The first day starts with a walk through heathland above Walpole Inlet before climbing to Hilltop Lookout
with spectacular views of over a cloak of karri and marri forest to Walpole and Nornalup inlets and the southern ocean beyond. In the forest beyond lies the Giant Tingle Tree, the largest on the track. Hollowed out by fire, its giant buttresses could swallow a car. The red tingles (Eucalyptus jacksonii), found only in south-west WA, are wonderfully knobbly and broad trees that can grow to 75m tall and 24m round. Full of character, they seem just about to lean over and impart some sage advice. Frankland River campsite has a comfortable hut on the riverbank to rest before the second day of walking in tingle and karri forest on the way to the Valley of the Giants, where there is a magical walkway in the forest canopy. The third day is marked by the transition from forest to coastal heathlands and culminates in the high dunes and wild waves of the southern ocean at Conspicuous Beach. The final day’s route to the shallow, turquoise waters of Peaceful Bay traverses coastal scrub filled with wildflowers, rugged beaches and granite headlands.

Check with Walpole Visitor Information Centre for help with transfers. See bibbulmantrack.org.au for detailed maps and guides.  

The Loop Trail

Distance: 8km circuit   Time: 3–4 hours  Difficulty: Medium

This rugged walk follows the course of the Murchison River deep in Kalbarri National Park where it loops back on itself. It’s well worth taking the time to explore this arid elemental landscape away from the crowds at the popular landmarks and new 100m-high skywalk at West Loop. Look out for reptiles such as the thorny devil or sand goanna and dainty wildflowers in spring.

The park’s red-and-white banded gorges are made up of sedimentary rock called Tumblagooda Sandstone. These striking horizontal layers of sand were deposited 400 million years ago and have eroded into shapes such as Nature’s Window, a rock arch that frames a view of the riverbed below
and marks the start of this trail. The first third of the walk follows the cliff top before descending steeply to a beach at the bottom of the gorge. The next third is a bit more tricky, scrambling along riverside ledges, before the route opens up to traverse the sandy riverbank and gnarled gum trees for the final section. Be sure to stop for a swim or picnic before climbing out of the gorge back to Nature’s Window.

This walk can be extremely hot in summer and you must carry plenty of water with you. Many tourists have been evacuated from this park because they have been unprepared for the conditions. Try to walk in the cool of the early morning before the mercury rises – the softer light will reveal all the subtleties of the coloured stone. The river usually flows after rains in autumn or winter but may dry up to a series of pools in summer. It can also flood at any time if there has been heavy rain inland – if necessary, rangers will close the park.  

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The peak of adventure

Sun Peaks is a true one-stop shop for riders, hikers, snow-sport lovers, and those who just want to enjoy a fantastic way to immerse themselves in the wild country of this part of BC. The resort village has a sense of fun and excitement humming through it when I arrive, with full campground and carparks, and a mix of mountain bikers and hikers sharing the pathways with a bunch of other visitors in decidedly more comfortable clothing; black t-shirts and jeans and hats dominate and, initially I cannot figure out what they’re doing here.

Then, I step off the bus, and I hear it: the power chords of one of Australia’s greatest musical exports – AC/DC – echo around the village, and with impressive volume. In this case, it is an AC/DC cover band (aptly named Dirty Deeds DDC), and part of Sun Peaks’ annual Retro Rock Weekend, which will, over the next few days, feature plenty of other iconic bands being covered by musicians, including Fleetwood Mac, Bon Jovi and ABBA. And, listening to how well this band’s lead singer replicates Brian Johnson’s unique, high-pitched yowl during a tight rendition of Acca-Dacca’s “Back In Black”, I understand why the entire village is heaving. The music is top-notch and creates a brilliant atmosphere that sets the scene for my three days enjoying not only the music and the many cafes and restaurants, but the hiking and biking trail networks that spider-web out from the village centre. And all I have to do to enjoy this adventure wonderland is take a seat…

Above it all

Usually, getting up high in the mountains on a hike involves a few hours of hard graft as you ascend. This, however, is not the case at Sun Peaks. Visitors simply have to buy a ticket (you can pre-book or turn up on the day), pick it up at the Village Day Lodge and then store it in a pocket, where the chairlift entry scanners pick it up, and let you through to the mechanical equivalent of a stairway to walking heaven. Thanks to the Sunburst Express chairlift, myself, Julie and Leigh are, in a matter of minutes, at Mid-Mountain, a heady 1850 metres above sea level, and the junction point for hiking and biking trails. (There’s also a First Aid phone here, along with toilets and food options – yep, it’s very well set up.) 

Of course, it’s not all sitting in a chair and simply elevating to the top of a mountain – there is still some footwork involved. After a quick double-check of daypacks, we are off, following the winding, still-upward trail that is Gill’s, with our final goal on this 9km hike the summit of Tod Peak. Incredibly, not more than five minutes after standing at the busy hub of Mid-Mountain, we are in dense forest, and have already spotted a deer, as well as some native birdlife. The trail steadily climbs, with intermittent clearings for eye-popping views over the surrounding landscapes, mixed with deep forest. It’s simply beautiful, and only gets more so as we climb higher. The first big highlight is pristine Tod Lake, nestled on the downward slope of the mountain, and doing its best impression of a mirror, with the clouds above reflecting perfectly in its waters. I note, and chuckle to myself, a brave couple who have decided to take a swim, especially after Julie mentions just how cold the water is. Still, it’s hard not to be tempted: the water looks so enticing and it is a warm morning.

Turning aside from the lake we are soon climbing more steep and open sub-alpine terrain, as we make our way up to the summit of Tod Peak itself. Surrounding us are patches of forest below, and some vibrant alpine flowers beside the Tod Peak trail itself; the mix of yellows, purples, reds and blues is amazing. This is only topped (excuse the pun) by the 360-degree view from Tod Peak’s 2152m summit. Here, the village, the ski runs on the mountains opposite us, distant lakes, and the fire-scarred nearby peaks that show just how close recent wildfires got to the resort, are all part of the vista.

There and back again

All too soon we are descending, firstly back along Tod Peak Trail, then on to West Bowl and linking on to West Ridge. The trails are so well marked here you’d have to be really not paying attention to get anywhere near lost and, allowing for the ease of navigation, it means you can simply enjoy hiking. Our return is, again, through a mix of terrain, including dense forest, open hanging valleys, and across a small lake, and time just seems to fly by. Julie and Leigh joke to me about one turn we take and how it means we will have a “bit of a climb” back up to Mid-Mountain, but I really don’t care; being out here, in good company on some brilliant hiking trails, makes me feel incredibly relaxed, and thus up for anything. And, as it turns out, that “bit of a climb” is just that, and soon over.. 

The final highlight is the chairlift descent back to the village; watching hikers and bikers on the way up on the chairlift – and the eager looks on their faces – reaffirms what I have felt since I got to Sun Peaks: everyone is here to have a bloody good time and that vibe applies to me as well. So much so that, even though I am a bit of a recluse, I wander up to Cahilty Creek Kitchen & Taproom, which is heaving with people, so I can not only enjoy the awesome burger and a craft beer but continue to feed off what I am already calling the ‘Sun Peaks vibe’. 

Sitting in my room at the Sun Peaks Grand Hotel later that afternoon, downloading photos and writing up some notes, I have my sliding door open so I can hear the concert. The music is great, but there’s an even more enjoyable sound that is blending in with the music; a constant laughing and shouting, coming from the kids at Sun Peaks’ mountain bike Progression Park, as they ride down the well-constructed beginners’ loop, then ride the automated carpet back up to the top again. My laughing and hollering begin tomorrow…

Sun Peaks equals mountain bike magic

Just when I thought getting into the outdoors at Sun Peaks couldn’t get any easier it does. This morning, I have already wandered down to Bolacco Café for a tasty coffee and croissant and am throwing on my mountain biking gear for what is promising to be an epic day.

Sun Peaks Bike Park has offered excellent mountain biking for years and has recently finished some trail expansion work. This includes summer chairlift access to high trailheads, and 31km of new trails. The big one is a second chairlift for access to the Bike Park on Sundance Mountain, which includes six new trails. Lucky me; I am here to ride some of them. On top of this – yes, there’s more – a further 12km of hand- and machine-built trails is being developed on Mt Morrisey and will include a 2km viewpoint trail (shared with hikers), a 6km climb trail (again, this is a bike/hike share trail) and a 4km downhill. This all directly reflects the huge growth in rider visitation over the past five years – more than 200 per cent, consistently, over that period of time.

The process for riding in the resort is the same as the hiking, dropping in at the Village Day Lodge’s Sports School desk and grabbing your lift/trail pass. Making riding here easier for visitors is the excellent bike hire facilities available. I have rented a Rocky Mountain Altitude Coil 70 – an enduro rig and ‘big brother’ to my personal bike – the more trail-oriented Rocky Mountain Instinct – as well as a full-face helmet, shin and elbow pads, from Elevation Bike, Ski & Board, just below my hotel.

I am soon rolling through the village on my way to picking up my lift pass, before I meet Rob McCloskey, Sun Peaks’ then-Director of Marketing, and my MTB guide for this morning’s adventure, riding a mix of the old and the new of the resort’s mountain bike trail network. 

A story of progression

I am very rusty. It’s been 18 months since I have spent any serious amount of time on a mountain bike. Even my balance is a bit off, showcased hilariously by my attempt to smoothly get my bike and myself safely on our chairs, as we head up Tod Mountain aboard the resort’s original Bike Park chairlift, Sunburst Express. I use the plural as the way the chairlifts work at Sun Peaks is that there are specific bike-carrying chairs, and each of these is followed by a ‘regular’ passenger chair. So, we (mostly me) do a bit of a dance to get the bikes on their chair as it moves past Rob and I. 

The Sun Peaks Bike Park opened in 1999 and the Sunburst Express serviced what was, then, mostly technical, gnarly and bloody steep trails – something the park soon became famous for. Today, though, we hop off the Sunburst Express and roll our bikes towards a far more amenable (for this rider) trail, Switcheroo. As the moniker suggests, this green trail includes numerous switchbacks and small jumps for beginner riders, winding its way down Tod Mountain. Even allowing for the green rating, I struggle slightly at the start, due to lack of the aforementioned bike-time, but also getting my head around not looking at the knockout scenery surrounding me and also getting used to the Altitude, which just wants to go fast.

Slowly,  my bike skills re-emerge, and even though I am sure I’ll need new brakes after this run, I feel more confident. It is this ability to grow your confidence that is a key element of how Sun Peaks has designed its trails. The resort wants riders of all abilities to enjoy riding here by building up experience through a slow progression of tackling more challenging trails slowly. With the way the trails are designed, this is easy – and brilliant fun – as I find out when Rob suggests we check out the new trails on Sundance Mountain. Even though I still feel that rustiness, the sheer fun involved in riding Switcheroo has me champing at the bit. So, not more than 10 minutes later, Rob and I are back on top of a mountain. This time, we up the ante and pick a Blue rated trail, ironically called Might As Well. I laugh, but Rob also reminds me that what he and I are doing (in my case, of course) is fulfilling that progression ethos that the Sun Peaks trails promote; Might As Well is slightly more challenging than Switcheroo, with more jumps, slightly bigger berms, and faster sections – but nothing requiring someone coming from a Green trail to feel nervous about.

“We definitely have a focus on the active family traveller,” Rob explains, before we start. “And believe that in the summer our trail range built for rider progression has allowed families (and all riders) of all abilities to enjoy the sport together.”

And he’s right. My sense of rustiness disappears as I finally connect with the Altitude and re-discover more of my riding skills. It’d sound like a cliché if I said the trail brought the best out in me, but by the end of Might As Well, as we then link on to Level Up, further down, I reckon it’s true. Jumps I would have rolled over, I take at more speed, confident in both the bike and my skills. There are some monster berms (to me) on the way down, but they’re so well formed that as long as you have your technique nailed, you’ll spit out the other side faster than when you went in. It’s awesome. 

All too soon, we are down the mountain again, leaving Level Up and linking on to the Progression Park’s trails. This, in itself, is simply brilliant, and I can already envisage my 13- and 10-year old kids thriving here and gaining oodles of confidence on their bikes. It’s a poignant reminder that all riders, whether those younger fearless screamers I saw on the double-black diamond trails up the mountain, or the – ahem – more aged pedallers, such as myself, have to start somewhere. Having a facility like this here (and the added benefit of available coaching if you wish) is the proverbial icing on the cake and it reminds me of Rob’s earlier mention of the resort’s focus on the active family traveller – it’s a real thing, here, and done very, very well. So well, in fact, that once I say goodbye to Rob, I head out for one more ride before lunch, my quick progression giving me enough confidence to go solo on the mountain. 

The reasons why Sun Peaks rocks

If someone had said to me one of the best outdoor holidays for me and my family was staying at a hugely popular tourist (and resident!) village, I would have – quite ignorantly, in hindsight – laughed in their faces. Three days at Sun Peaks has changed that and made me a total convert. This conversion is not too difficult to explain, and it comes down to that one word: ‘easy’. Everything at Sun Peaks is geared toward ensuring visitors optimise their outdoor fun, enjoy top-notch food afterwards while they regale each other with the day’s events, and then can relax afterward in a wide range of excellent accommodation options, before doing it all again the next day.

From the straightforward lift pass, easily accessed hiking trails, and the bike hire processes, to the fact you can park your car and never have to use it again the whole time you’re here (thanks to everything being within walking distance) to the ultra-helpful staff at the shops, restaurants and accommodation, Sun Peaks makes it all – again, that word – easy. Add in the excellent signposted trail networks for both hiking and biking – and the fact they are accessible to all ages and abilities (the kids’ bike Progression Park gets my vote as the best-thing-ever) and you only need to worry about enjoying the outdoors.

Justin Walker was a guest of Sun Peaks and Destination British Columbia

The post One small step: Adventure is just outside your door in British Columbia appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Distance: 35km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Road/Hybrid

When Walter Burley Griffin designed a lake at the heart of Canberra, he could easily have had cyclists in mind. Its shores are flat, its 35km circumference makes for a perfect few hours of pedalling, and almost every national public building of note sits huddled along its edges. The lake is entirely ringed by a shared-use path, which clings to the shores of the lake most of the way. The major deviations from its shores take you around Government House in Yarralumla, and through the Jerrabomberra Wetlands at the lake’s eastern end.

Doubling as a sightseeing tour of the national capital, the ride can be started anywhere along the lakeshore, and be cycled in either direction. Navigation is simplicity itself – simply keep to the mostly sealed path beside the water. Highlights include the Parliamentary Zone, where the ride passes the National Gallery, the flag-festooned High Court and the monolithic National Library, with Parliament House set on a low hill behind. The foreshore precinct in Kingston – where the path returns to the lake after arcing out through the wetlands – and the avant-garde New Acton district offer more distractions.

The ride is pretty much a choose-your-own adventure. You can lap the lake in a two-hour burst, or linger in the National Arboretum, National Museum or any of dozens of other lakeside diversions to draw the ride out across a full day. If you’re an early riser, it’s a beautiful dawn ride, when the rowers are on the waters, the hot-air balloons are in the sky, and the day and the lake are likely as still as a meditation. 

Perimeter-Long Track, NSW

Perimeter-Long Track, NSW

Distance: 21km  Grade: Easy  Bike: MTB/Gravel

This magical there-and-back-again ride is found at Terrey Hills, in Sydney’s Northern Beaches area. This ride combines two designated tracks – Perimeter and Long tracks – to deposit riders at one of Sydney’s, and arguably NSW’s, most beautiful viewpoints: Peach Trees lookout. From this high-up natural wonder, there are expansive views across the Hawkesbury River to Cowan Creek and Berowra on the northern banks of the river. Reaching Peach Trees is a lovely ride along primarily firetrail (Perimeter Track is signposted and there is ample parking on streets near its start point), through dense bush dotted with eucalypts, grass trees and loads of wildlife.

The Perimeter Track comprises the first section and is a wide, undulating firetrail (keep an eye out for horse riders and walkers here – and give way to both) that loops north and west around the top end of Terrey Hills for a touch over 6km before you reach the Long Track turn-off that takes you north. From here, the track is slightly rougher under your wheels and continues its undulating profile for just under 4km before you reach the lookout. You cannot ride up to the rock that offers the best views but can leave your bike just nearby and walk the last 10 metres. The ride is ideal for families, and it is well worth taking a picnic and to spend some time admiring the view before the return journey. 

Simpsons Gap Bike Path, NT

Distance: 17km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Hybrid/Gravel/MTB

Running umbilically between Alice Springs and Simpsons Gap, the nearest of the West MacDonnell Ranges’ multitude of narrow gorges to the city, this fully sealed bike path is a desert delight. Beginning beside the boulder-topped grave of John Flynn, founder of the Royal Flying Doctor Service, the path rolls gently through the Alice Valley, pinched between the rust-red mountains of the West MacDonnells and the Heavitree Range. 

For all but the first kilometre, the ride is inside Tjorita/West MacDonnell National Park, winding between low hills but making few climbs of its own. The open landscape is brightened by ghost gums, desert bloodwoods and the flowers of the mulla mulla. There are two picnic tables (with bike racks) tucked into the shade of ghost gums along the path, and a 1.8km walking trail to Cassia Hill (named for cassia shrubs that cover it) that starts from the path’s edge as it makes its final turn towards Simpsons Gap.

The last 700m of the ride is on a roadside bike lane (where it also crosses the Larapinta Trail), ending in the Simpsons Gap car park, from where it’s a 400m stroll along the sandy creek bed to the Gap. This break in the mountains creates a spectacular scene – in full sun, the orange cliffs seem to glow like coals above the permanent pool (swimming is banned) inside the gorge. Black-footed rock wallabies are commonly seen among the rocks that litter the slopes outside its mouth. With average summer temperatures out here reaching 36°C, this is a path best pedalled in the cooler winter months. 

Encounter Bikeway, SA

Distance: 31km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Hybrid/Gravel/MTB

Showing off one of South Australia’s favourite holiday coasts, this seaside cycle stretches along the southern edge of the Fleurieu Peninsula, taking in the likes of Victor Harbor, Port Elliot and Middleton Beach as it journeys from The Bluff to Goolwa.

From a car park on the slopes of The Bluff (it’s worth walking to the top of the 97m-high headland for a view over Encounter Bay and much of the ride ahead), the bikeway drops to the shores of Encounter Bay, following a foreshore path into Victor Harbor. As Victor’s causeway stretches across the water to Granite Island, the ride turns with the coast, continuing to run pinched between the sand and the town. Crossing under a railway bridge and over the Hindmarsh River, the ride becomes a combination of bike paths and streets, but it always stays close to the coast – if you’re riding between May and September, keep a watch on the sea, especially along Boomer and Basham beaches, where southern right whales are regularly sighted.

The ride stays with the coast to Middleton, where it cuts briefly inland to Goolwa, the town sitting on the final bend in the Murray River’s long journey – the river mouth is just 10km away from here. The bikeway heads upstream from Goolwa, finishing abruptly and anticlimactically at Laffin Point. A more fitting finish is at the Goolwa Wharf (3.5km before Laffin Point), beside the Hindmarsh Island Bridge. It’s home to a distillery, eateries and a cellar door/craft brewer. Time the ride right and you (and your bike) can return to Victor Harbor on the Cockle Train, riding Australia’s oldest steel-railed railway. 

Clarence Foreshore Trail, TAS

Distance: 14.5km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

This trail follows Hobart’s picturesque Derwent River, kicking off at Geilston Bay and finishing at Howrah. Consisting of mostly flat footpaths, with the odd gravel section, a few roadside connections and a couple of hills, the trail is accessible for all abilities and skill levels, with plenty of entry and exit points. A highlight for families? Playgrounds galore for those inevitable refuel and rest stops. For those riders with little legs, a shorter version sees you set off from Geilston Bay and finish at Bellerive Park, with its playground and – yes! – the chance to indulge in fish and chips by the beach.

The ride encompasses magical views, from yachts bobbing on their moorings, to willow trees dangling over the trail. Passing under Hobart’s famous Tasman Bridge is a highlight, especially for the youngest cyclists, with the chance to test the echoes bouncing off the huge concrete pylons.At Kangaroo Bay, about 9km from the start, you may time it right for local market stalls. The beach here is beautiful, plus those fish and chips are available nearby. The final leg around a headland leads Bellerive Beach and then on to Howrah Beach. 

Bass Coast Rail Trail, VIC

Distance: 17km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Hybrid/Gravel

Victoria’s only coastal rail trail is a 90-minute drive from Melbourne and combines mild and wild coastal views with one of the country’s most spectacular trestle bridges and the ghosts of the coal-mining days that spawned the railway and the towns along it. The ride connects Wonthaggi to the bus interchange at Anderson (there are plans to extend the trail to Woolamai) and can be cycled in either direction – most cyclists will end up riding it both ways, returning to their car.

At the Anderson end, it threads through the old Kilcunda coal-mining area – said to be among the oldest coal mines in Victoria – before reaching the coast at Kilcunda. It stays on the shores only briefly, but spectacularly. Standing high above Bourne Creek, as it flows out onto Kilcunda Surf Beach, is a 91m-long trestle bridge that is one of the most striking structures along any of Victoria’s rail trails. To get perspective on the bridge, park your bike and head down onto the beach.

The trail veers inland again beyond the bridge, passing behind the coastal dunes and the six turbines of the Wonthaggi Wind Farm. A corridor of bush encloses the trail as it cuts through farmland and crosses another small trestle bridge, before passing the abandoned McBride tunnel entrance, another reminder of the area’s mining past. It’s just a few metres off the trail, and worth a look. The trail – hard-rolled earth until now – turns sealed as it makes the final approach into Wonthaggi, finishing beside the old railway station, built in 1912 and now reconfigured as the town museum. 

Moreton Bay Cycleway

Distance: 11km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

While the city of Brisbane boasts a cycleway along its river, Moreton Bay can be proud of the 11km cycleway that skirts this bay near Redcliffe. Sea breezes, the smell of the ocean, a promise of fish and chips and the wind in your hair – sounds ideal, right? There’s room to park at Scarborough Beach before pointing south (keep the ocean on your left) and heading towards Ted Smout Memorial Bridge. If you need to earn your fish and chips, keep the legs moving and you’ll have no problems on the uninterrupted route, making for a neat 22km return, but you’d be crazy to miss some of the more scenic places to stop on the way.

Settlement Cove Lagoon is a place to pause, with amenities if the need arises. Once you’re back in the saddle, keep your eyes peeled for Gayundah Wreck below the cliffs at Woody Point. The shipwreck occurred in the 19th Century, and the resting place for this Navy ship is popular with photographers. Crockatt Park is past the wreck, and a worthy bargaining chip for young legs that may be tiring – the park has a long flying fox. Otherwise, Pelican Park is just before Ted Smout Memorial Bridge and the ride’s turn-around point and is named appropriately! Time to turn back north and stop wherever the fish and chips smelt best.

Rottnest Island, WA

Distance: 4-22km  Grade: Easy  Bike: Any

Picture an island in the Indian Ocean fringed with 63 beaches, where the only motorised traffic is a bus, and an island-based rental company has almost 2000 bikes in its fleet. Welcome to the cycling beauty of Rottnest Island. Perth’s favourite holiday island is one of the country’s most bike-friendly destinations. Sealed roads run to its myriad beaches, and climbs of any note are rare, with the island barely peeping above the sea – its highest point is just 46m above sea level. Three cycling routes are promoted on the island, from a 4km Rotto Mini Loop to a 22km Island Ride that runs the length and width of the island. All routes begin in The Settlement, where ferries from Perth and Fremantle dock.

The Island Ride’s end goal is Cape Vlamingh, at Rottnest’s western tip, home to a colony of New Zealand fur seals as well as a boardwalk with clifftop views. This ride skirts Rottnest’s south and north coasts, which have their own distinctive characters. The north coast is more developed, with beaches such as Pinky Beach and Geordie Bay backed by tourist apartments and campgrounds. The south coast feels more remote, but each beach has its own individual attraction – there are remnants of a shipwreck at Henrietta Rocks, and a popular snorkelling trail at Little Salmon Bay.

Almost every beach has bike racks, making it possible to while away an entire day on the Island Ride, but other than a coffee van at Cape Vlamingh and a general store at Geordie Bay, there are no dining or drinking options outside of The Settlement, so plan ahead if setting out for the day. 

To read about more awesome Aussie bike rides, check out Australian Geographic’s Australia’s Best 100 Bike Rides, on sale now.

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Bartle Frere 

Distance: 15km return  Time: 1–2 days  Difficulty: Hard

It’s a mighty challenge to walk up the highest mountain in Queensland but great fun for very fit,
experienced and self-sufficient walkers. Bartle Frere (1611m), in Wooroonooran National Park, is about 30km north-west of Innisfail in far north Queensland. From Josephine Falls (100m) it’s a relatively easy walk to Big Rock camp. From there you’ll climb – steeply rising for 1000m over 4km through the humid rainforest – dodging vines, clambering over rocks and tree roots to emerge from the canopy at one of Australia’s most remote and spectacular campsites, Eastern Summit camp. The ascent from the campsite to the summit is an exciting scramble over huge boulders. From here, and from the campsite, there are 360 degree views of the Atherton Tablelands, Innisfail and the Great Barrier Reef.

The trail may be closed during the wet season, between December and April. Even in the tropics walkers need to be prepared for all conditions because rainstorms, freezing winds and cloud may envelop the upper ridges of the mountain at any time.  

Mt Cordeaux

Distance: 6.8km return  Time: 2.5 hours  Difficulty: Medium

To climb this mountain is to stand on the western rim of a massive shield volcano, active some 24 million years ago. Mt Cordeaux (1135m) is just one of a spectacular arc of mountains, known as the Scenic Rim, which stretches from Mt Mistake to Springbrook in south-eastern Queensland. Naturally, there are spectacular views – over the Main Range, Darling Downs, Lake Moogerah and McPherson Range. About 100km south-west of Brisbane, Mt Cordeaux is found within Main Range National Park, part of the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area. It’s a relatively easy and delightful route that offers great rewards for a short distance.

Starting from the carpark at Cunninghams Gap, trucks can be heard labouring up Cunningham Highway but the sound fades away as you climb, to be replaced by bellbirds, whipbirds and lyrebirds. The track zigzags uphill through mossy rainforest to two lookouts near the summit, bristling with spiky grass trees and giant spear lilies. If you have energy to spare it’s well worth extending the walk along the ridge top to Bare Rock (2.8km one way), which provides another perspective of Mt Cordeaux and views over the fertile valleys. The walk is popular so start early if you want it all to yourself. Be careful of the sheer cliff edges and take a jumper in case it’s cold at the top.  

K’gari (Fraser Island) Great Walk 

Distance: 90km  Time: 6–8 days  Difficulty: Medium

The world’s largest sand island is a spectacular World Heritage area, with pristine lakes, rare rainforests growing on sand and exuberant wildlife including whales, dugong, freshwater turtles, the country’s purest wild dingoes and half of Australia’s bird species. For thousands of years the up-to 9000 Butchulla people who lived here called the 123km-long island K’gari. It means ‘paradise’ or ‘beautiful place’. It is certainly that and the best way to appreciate it, free from the tourist crowds, is this long-distance walk traversing the middle section of the island from Dilli Village to Happy Valley.

You’ll visit exquisite emerald and sapphire lakes fringed by white sand, giant rainforest trees, coastal heathland, mangrove forest and creamy dunes called sandblows. As an independent walker you’ll need to be entirely self-sufficient but there are supported and guided options, and a taxi service that can provide transfers. Walkers campsites must be booked with QPWS.

North Stradbroke 

Distance: 6km return  Time: 2 hours  Difficulty: Easy

Just 30km south-east of Brisbane, North Stradbroke Island, or Minjerribah, is a large sand island much loved by locals for its natural beauty and relaxed pace, perfect for holidays full of walking, swimming and fishing. The Quandamooka people, the island’s traditional owners, have a strong culture and custodianship over its special places. About half the island is protected within Naree Budjong Djara National Park (meaning ‘My Mother Earth’), where you’ll find sand dunes, wetlands, endangered heathlands and lakes.

You can explore Point Lookout by walking around the beaches and headland to the spectacular Gorge Walk. This is Queensland’s most easterly point and one of the best places for viewing the humpback whale migration (Jun–Nov). In fact, the University of Queensland has a whale research facility that uses North Stradbroke Island for research on humpback whales and their songs. During this walk you might also spot dolphins, manta rays and sea turtles. Start from Cylinder Beach and simply follow the track around the coastline. At Frenchmans Bay climb the steps through banksias, she-oaks and pandanus trees to the roadside path. Head left to join up with the Gorge Walk, where boardwalks line the sides of this narrow notch in the headland and look south over 32km of white, sandy beach. The loop track will take you back to the road, and this is a shorter route back to Cylinder Beach.  

Thorsborne Trail 

Distance: 32km one way  Time: 3–5 days  Difficulty: Hard

Thorsborne Trail on Hinchinbrook Island is one of Australia’s great multi-day walks, providing walkers with a real wilderness experience. Only 40 people are permitted on the track at a time so you can enjoy the solitude of a relatively untouched landscape. There are few traces of human interference here. Apart from track markers, fixed to trees at eye height in the scrubland and rainforest sections, there is very little signage. Walkers must camp and be entirely self-sufficient.

Hinchinbrook Island, 53km long and 10km wide, located about 6km off the northern Queensland coast, is part of the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage Area. Water is a defining feature of the landscape on the island – its rugged 400sq.km landmass has been shaped by the seasonal rains and tidal swells of the Wet Tropics. An intricate network of creeks and waterways threads across the island; swollen with monsoon rainwater during the humid summer months, they give birth to falls that thunder through the island’s rock country. During winter the waterways gradually drain and evaporate, leaving many creeks dry. 

The Thorsborne stretches 32km along the eastern coast of the island, from Ramsay Bay in the north to George Point on the south-eastern tip, and can be walked in either direction. The trail passes through incredibly diverse landscapes, traversing mangrove swamps, sweeping beaches and rocky headlands on the Coral Sea, heath-covered mountains, melaleuca and palm wetlands, eucalypt and casuarina woodlands, and lush, tropical rainforests. Although daily distances are short, it’s a challenging walk thanks to the humidity, the need to carry your own gear and water, tidal creek crossings and the danger of saltwater crocodiles and marine stingers. Nevertheless, the island’s wild and pristine beauty is hard to resist and you’ll soon see why people come from all over the world for the Thorsborne. Camping permits must be obtained from QPWS. Plan well ahead as this is a popular walk.  

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Waitpinga to Kings Beach

Distance: 11.5km one way  Time: 4–6 hours   Difficulty: Medium

The Heysen Trail, named for German-born painter Hans Heysen, is a 1200km route that takes walkers from the coast to the outback along South Australia’s ancient mountain backbone. It starts (or ends) on the wild southern flank of the Fleurieu Peninsula, a coast of ravines, isolated beaches and ink-black cliffs plunging into the ocean swell. This section, just south of Victor Harbor, from Waitpinga to Kings Beach is one of the highlights of the whole trail. Starting at Waitpinga campground in Newland Head Conservation Park, the trail follows a fire trail to reach the coastline. The track then scrambles along the edge of the Waitpinga cliffs, where sheer, 100m-high walls are stacked in layers against the shoreline like colossal dinner plates in a rack. The cliffs end at King Head and its crescent beach. It’s an atmospheric walk, taking in the vastness of the ocean beyond. This precious sliver of coast is a valuable corridor for wildlife, including threatened birds of prey, such as peregrine falcons and white-bellied sea-eagles, so remember to look up as well as down.

Just beyond Kings Beach stands Rosetta Head – known to many as the Bluff. From this vantage point the view back along the coast to the beach and the distant cliffs of Waitpinga is magnificent. On a bright August morning in 1925, Heysen sat on the saddle below the Bluff sketching the view. As it happens he wasn’t celebrating but grieving; only days earlier his beloved third daughter, Lillian, had died of meningitis, just shy of her 16th birthday. Yet somehow from his deep love of nature he found the strength to keep working and in the months ahead he completed a major oil painting of the scene. The South Coast is a beautiful, uplifting picture of crisp winter light with green hills and lines of surf breaking on the rocky shore.  

Bunyeroo & Wilcolo Creek

Distance: 9.2km circuit  Time: 4 hours  Difficulty: Easy

About 20km north of Wilpena Pound in the Flinders Ranges, this circuit walk in the gentle, rolling country of Bunyeroo Valley follows the paths of two creeks through the ABC Range, with a short climb to a wonderful lookout over the ancient, sinuous ridges of the Flinders Ranges. From the Bunyeroo carpark, the trail heads south along Wilcolo Creek, passing through the purple-tinged shales and open cypress pine woodland of the Bunyeroo Formation. Next swinging east, the route joins up with the Heysen Trail and crosses Wilcolo Creek to enter a narrow gorge through the ABC Range. There are enormous river red gums here and huge blocks of quartzite made of ancient, sandy riverbeds.

Beyond the gorge the route winds through more cypress pine woodland to the lookout. From here you can take in the sweep of the ABC and Heysen ranges and even see St Mary Peak in Wilpena Pound, 7km to the south. The track now swings north over Brachina Formation siltstones and sandstones, scattered with silver wattle and corkbark, to reach Bunyeroo Creek with its beautiful river red gums. The trail continues along the creek’s route west through the ABC Range.

Anyone with an interest in geology might also like to do the Bunyeroo Gorge walk from the same carpark. It’s an easy and fascinating stroll along the creek bed (7.5km return), through the Heysen Range, that reveals 50 million years of geological formations from the Precambrian and Cambrian periods.

Riesling Trail

Distance: 35km one way  Time: 1–2 days  Difficulty: Easy

The Clare Valley is a beguiling wine region, high in the northern Mount Lofty Ranges about 100km north of Adelaide. One of Australia’s oldest wine-producing regions, the Clare has many lovely 19th-century stone buildings and more than 50 wineries scattered along its rolling hills, including historic vineyards such as Sevenhill, established by Jesuits in 1851 for sacramental wine. This friendly region is occupied by small growers and winemakers rather than the big brands and is best known for riesling, shiraz and cabernet sauvignon.

The flattish, gravel Riesling Trail was created for walkers and cyclists along the Auburn to Barinia section of the original Riverton to Spalding railway line. The trail passes through vineyards, farmland and woodland as well as the villages of Leasingham, Watervale, Penwortham, Sevenhill and the region’s commercial centre, Clare. It’s an easy walk designed for relaxed ambling and lots of stops to sample the region’s superb food and wine and talk to producers.  

St Mary Peak

Distance: 21.5km circuit  Time: 9 hours  Difficulty: Hard

If Australia had its own seven wonders of the natural world, Wilpena Pound would surely be near the top of the list. It would vie with such luminaries as Kata Tjuta, the Twelve Apostles and of course Uluru, which, astonishingly, would fit within Wilpena’s walls six times over. But it’s surprising how many Australians have never heard of, let alone visited, this geological spectacle in South Australia’s Flinders Ranges National Park. Geologists describe the feature as a remnant elevated synclinal basin, and it was once enclosed by far higher mountains. Its steep walls and shallow inner bowl are made of thick layers of super-hard quartzite that have been squeezed along both east-west and north-south axes, forcing the strata upwards and creating the teardrop-shaped, 17km by 7km structure.

The toughest walk in the Wilpena Pound area is the St Mary Peak Hike. At 1171m, St Mary is the highest mountain in the Flinders Ranges and is significant in the Adnyamathanha creation stories. For this reason they ask that walkers turn around at Tanderra Saddle (over 900m high) rather than continue to the summit. The views from the saddle are still magnificent. You could turn around here and walk back down to the visitor centre (about 7km) but to be truly immersed in this extraordinary landscape, you should walk into its very heart. This loop walk lets you experience a variety of Flinders landscapes, from scrambling over its red rock bones to walking through native pine forest and open grassland, and meandering along a lovely creekbed and shady red gums near the visitor centre.

Rangers recommend you start this hike no later than 9am (10am during daylight saving) and take plenty of water. You can make this a two-day hike by camping at Cooinda Camp but note that this campsite has no facilities.  

Banrock Station Wetlands

Distance: 8km circuit  Time: 2–3 hours  Difficulty: Easy

Banrock Station is a winery on the Murray River floodplain near the small town of Kingston on Murray. Since 1994 the owners have worked to restore more than 1500ha of wetlands and woodlands by planting thousands of trees, removing livestock and exotic species such as European carp, and establishing a more natural wetlands regime of wet and dry cycles.

By 2002 the wetland had been listed under the Ramsar Convention as an internationally significant habitat and refuge for migratory birds and other wildlife. More than 310 flora and 250 fauna species have been recorded here. This boardwalk loop through the wetlands is superbly tranquil and a wonderful way to observe the abundant birdlife as there are several hides.
As it’s a winery, there’s also an excellent restaurant and cellar door to enjoy.   

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This is not something I saw outlined in the brochure (and certainly not something I’d want my mum to know), so rather than penguins and seals and whales, what I’m mainly thinking about whenever we paddle past a whopper of a ’berg is the infinitesimal possibility that at any second, I could be a Dan Smoothie. It doesn’t help when Michael, head kayaking guide, relates the time he heard one ‘the size of a shopping mall’ start to revolve behind him. “No point,” he replies when I ask if he’d tried to paddle away as fast as possible. “The only thing you can do is turn around, hope it’s not your time to go and enjoy the spectacle, because it might be the last thing you’re ever going to see.”

To their credit, Michael and the other expedition guides don’t allow us near any of the building-sized icebergs, only the truck-sized ones (15 per cent portion) and there’s no denying the thrill of being close enough to one of those icy behemoths to peer into its sapphire heart. This is precisely what I’d pictured on putting my hand up for Aurora Expeditions’ kayaking programme, an add-on to its expedition-style Antarctic cruise.

A kayaking in Antarctica dream come true

On the M/V Greg Mortimer, named for the founder of Aurora and one of Australia’s greatest modern explorers, the paddling contingent is 20. Blading the unspoiled waters of the white continent has been an ambition of mine for dolphin’s years, but it seems some of the group have signed up on a whim. Those with little experience of a spray deck include a quartet of friends, one of whom turns out to be ABC news anchor Jeremy Fernandez, who began learning the basics a year ago, specifically for this trip. Another family of six did an introductory course a couple of months beforehand. Barbara, the matriarch, had been so nervous she’d literally thrown up over the side of her kayak on the first day.

Come our first put-in, the anxiety is palpable. Most have never worn a dry suit before, an essential item for these frigid polar waters, and struggle with the tight gaskets and birth canal-like head aperture. The brand-new Gore-Tex Kokotat suits retail at roughly $1000 USD each, and a slew of other top shelf gear provided by Aurora includes solid 65° North Sea kayaks and US-made Austral PFDs. In their newness they match the ship itself – the Greg Mortimer is a state-of-the-art, ice-strengthened expedition vessel. The ‘mud room’, where we dress for each outing, is spacious, and the aft deck, where the boats are stored, cavernous. We also have the benefit of a custom-built floating loading platform which makes climbing in and out of the kayaks a breeze, and the opacity of the ship’s sunscreen makes everyone resemble Ghost Face Killah.

So far, so good, but once on the water, nature must provide the entertainment, and she doesn’t disappoint. The first location is Half Moon Island, a craggy outcrop of the South Shetland group, home to an important chinstrap penguin rookery. Overcast, with a chill wind, tensions in the flotilla are high. Well, at least until a humpback whale breaks the ice, as it were. Whales don’t have to be doing much to be impressive and this one is basically asleep. This means it lolls around on the surface obligingly while we gape at it from a safe distance.

“Once you spot a whale it’s fairly easy to determine where it’s going,” says Frank, one of the other kayak guides, when I ask him if a lairy blubber mammoth could conceivably breach into my lap. “So, if you put yourself in their way then yes, that can happen, but not if you’re paying attention and observe the rules.” The IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) set guidelines as to the distances vessels can approach marine wildlife, which for whales is 100m regardless of whether it’s a kayak or a cruise ship. “People always want to go closer,” continues Frank on the subject of balancing clients’ enjoyment with their safety, “but it’s in everyone’s best interest to observe the rules.”

This adherence to the code and respect for the whales’ wellbeing is warmly received by the team, and that first encounter sets the bar pretty high for the coming days. The standard format, unless there happens to be an odd number of participants on any given day, is tandem kayaks all round, except for the guides, and this is accepted wholesale. A co-pilot makes the excursion more fun and helps us get to know our fellow adventurers as we chop and change partners like a Berlin swingers’ club. The only time anyone gets tipped in the drink is due to a rogue wave as one pair are re-entering after a beach landing. Even then they are only waist deep in the sub-zero water (saltwater freezes at a lower temperature than fresh water), and the dunking mostly serves to prove to all and sundry that the dry suits work.

A unique interruption to our regular programme

The kayaking programme aims for two excursions per day, weather dependant, while the regular passengers are occupied with Zodiac tours or shore landings. I’d been concerned that I might miss out on other cool stuff by always being paddling, or that I’d struggle to maintain my enthusiasm twice daily, but my fears were unfounded. The only time any of the kayakers miss a session is through bad weather, illness or a surprise marriage.

Yes, you read that right. On our first day anchored off the continent proper, a beautiful place called Neko Harbour, Barbara’s daughter Nat and her boyfriend Angus decide to tie the knot (presumably a bowline). “We organised with Aurora to have a secret ceremony some time on the trip when the weather was good,” reveals Nat, afterwards. “We just wanted a chance to get married on the mainland of Antarctica. It’s pretty unusual! So on that day Robyn (deputy expedition leader) came to us before lunch and said ‘Write some vows and we’ll see if we can make this happen.’ So we went and told the family: ‘Hopefully you don’t mind not kayaking this afternoon because we’re getting married today, so go and brush your hair.’ They were totally shocked!”

Related: Paddle Pulse: Thrills and chills of cold-water sea kayaking

“It could have backfired,” chuckles Angus, “being stuck on a boat with angry in-laws for the rest of the week.” As Robyn isn’t a registered celebrant the couple were happy to make do with a commitment ceremony. (Contrary to popular belief, ship’s captains do not generally have the authority to officiate weddings.) Back in Australia, they’ll have to fill out the paperwork at the registry office to make it legal. “Just as Angus put the ring on my finger,” continues Nat, “a chunk of ice broke off one of the cliffs literally behind us and everything just stopped. It was so loud. I don’t know if that was a message from the Gods or what!”

The freedom of going with the flow

While Nat and Angus are starring in their own ‘Love among the icebergs’ mini-series, which come to think of it was probably cheaper than hosting an average wedding in Australia, the rest of us are hard at it. The prime location of the week, as agreed by all, is a spot called Paradise Harbour. It’s the first time the sun really comes out with enthusiasm, making the icebergs sparkle like broken windscreens. The mood of the whole group is jubilant and the seals seem to love it as well, as we see more giant, sabre-toothed slugs sprawled on ice floes than usual. We were actually unaware of the rarity of the sight for the non-kayakers until Ignacio brings it up. “I spoke to someone yesterday who was so excited to have seen a seal from the boat,” he tells us, “and I’m like ‘What do you mean, the place is full of seals!’”

The same goes for swimming and diving gentoo penguins. One of my favourite sights is their graceful flight through the air as they boost themselves bodily out of the water, apparently the most efficient way for them to catch a breath while swimming. If you think they’re cute on land, ungainly and covered in their own filth (another thing they don’t mention in the brochure), they’re even better in mid-air, mirrored by their still reflection. You’d think they’d been adopted by a pod of dolphins and were copying their parents’ behaviour, unaware they were actually flightless birds.

These examples serve to highlight the real joy of Antarctic kayaking – unrivalled proximity to wildlife and the freedom to explore. Inflatable Zodiacs carrying ten passengers, while a great experience, are noisier and sit lower in the water. Split into two small groups, we can basically paddle anywhere that takes our fancy. We still make shore landings but in separate spots to the Zodiacs, so ten of us have a whole cove to ourselves instead of sharing it with 100 pedestrians. “I love just creeping  around,” confirms Nat. “Let’s just see what’s around this corner and ‘Oh look, there’s a leopard seal on the ice!’ The other day we went up a narrow channel, flat and shallow with sheer cliffs, and found a sailboat just hanging out there. It was beautiful.” Angus concurs: “There’s no way they would have got the Zodiacs in there, but we just paddled through.”

Capable hands encourage crazy ideas

Inevitably, there are a couple of days when the weather doesn’t co-operate, and an outing is called off. Even if we are all suited-up and ready on the aft deck, paddles poised, safety is paramount. On one occasion the swell rises to a disturbing three metres as we’re about to load. We can see the pontoon surging up and down, Frank’s head disappearing and reappearing with each wave, and are all silently thinking to ourselves that it may actually be a tad too rough for us. “Standing there looking at the water, I was kind of hoping they’d call it,” recalls Nat, later. “It wouldn’t have been fun.” Jeremy agrees. “I felt safe because they made the judgement and so I didn’t have to decide for myself whether or not to go in.” In the end we substitute a kayakers-only Zodiac cruise, landing on a pristine beach where we make snow angels and a human Christmas tree. It turns out to be a very enjoyable couple of hours that everyone tags as a highlight.

For me though, the icebergs entrance above all else. Whether shaped like a crenellated Moorish citadel or bristling like an albino dragon, their depth, poise and architecture never fail to catch and hold my eye. Having realised my paddling ambition of so long, it may be time set the bar a little higher. On my next trip south I’m going to ice-climb up the face of one of those multi-story monsters and BASE jump from the summit. Just don’t tell my mum.

The post A private audience with the land of ice: Kayaking in Antarctica appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Come to think of it, maybe it’s the saddle that’s to blame? This long Easter weekend, Gerda is using the same bike that carried me around Waipounamu, a cheap but sturdy hybrid mostly used nowadays for commuting. I’m on my dedicated mountain bike, which has been fully serviced for this trip after a long period of inactivity under the stairs. We both have rear panniers supplemented by various handlebar and frame bags borrowed from a mate who lives in Hughes, a quiet suburb of Canberra.

At first glance, our esteemed capital doesn’t appear to be a promising destination for a four-day bikepacking jolly. Indeed, ring roads, museums and politicians are rarely mentioned in the same sentence as the word ‘adventure’ – probably not even the same book – and yet the ACT actually has the largest proportion of national park land of all Australia’s states and territories – a whopping 43.7% (albeit all contained within Namadgi NP). It also boasts the Canberra Centenary Trail (CCT), a 145km loop that encircles the city in its dusty embrace.

Designed to be used by both hikers and cyclists, the CCT is split into seven sections, which together delineate a sort of flaccid ellipse north and south of the city centre, taking in every park, reserve, sanctuary, forest, and lookout available along the way. There are small variations in the route for walkers and riders, the latter running the gamut of urban cycle paths through rural grassland to full mountain bike trails with berms and all. We’d planned a three-day circuit out of Hughes, followed by the reward of a hotel in Tuggeranong. The fact that Gerda is opting to ‘stand out’ the fourth day is a clue that things haven’t quite gone according to plan.

Along the way

I wheel stealthily outside only to realise, as the hotel exit clicks shut behind me, that I’ve forgotten to bring the toolkit, which lives on Gerda’s bike. This means sneaking around the side of the building, counting windows, and furtively tapping on one at a volume I calculate sufficient to wake her, but not anyone else if I’ve got the wrong room. Fortunately, my count is true, and she hands over the tools with a roll of the eyes. It’s only a couple of streets later I notice my bottle cages are lacking their usual contents. Not to worry, a quick detour to the servo furnishes me with a couple of Gatorades. As I bend down to install them, my eyes light upon the empty pump bracket. Talk about a half-arsed job! I’ll just have to cross my fingers I don’t get a puncture. 

At least this morning’s ride, the gentle home stretch, can’t go far wrong. Or so I think until the track I’m following deteriorates into an unkempt bush trail, which in turn gradually peters out at a barren fence line. I remain unfazed. Rather than backtrack, I heave my heavy load over the barrier. By now I’m well practiced in swiftly removing of panniers, bodily hauling the frame up and over, followed by gingerly negotiating the crotch-high barbed wire, and reassembly. After all, I’ve had plenty of practice in the preceding days.

Canberra Centenary Trail signage has been … patchy. The Parks ACT website explains that ‘Directional Marker Posts provide limited guidance in each section’. ‘Limited’ is putting it politely. The map and signage disagreed more often than siblings in the back seat of a long car journey. When faced with these discrepancies, I can confidently state that we consistently made the wrong choice. For instance, on reaching the Federal Highway north of the city, when the trail markers looked like directing us on a long detour around a distant road junction, we elected to follow the map instead. Once through the underpass, we found ourselves walking our bikes along an ever-narrowing rut between overgrown bushes, which eventually ended in an impenetrable wall of brambles. We were forced to scale a 45° embankment onto the thundering highway to escape. 

Skin-shredding dead ends weren’t the only waymarking issue, either. Too late, we discovered that where the walking and cycling routes diverged, the trail signage only occasionally differentiated between the two with a ‘bike’ or ‘no bike’ symbol. Most of the time we didn’t notice until it we’d toiled up some brutal incline only to find a staircase or some other unrideable obstacle in our path.

Admittedly, we were woefully unprepared for the quantity and gradient of the hills. Straining up a steep, long incline, fully loaded in the hot sun, I felt like I was towing a recalcitrant hippopotamus. On the other hand, there were some lovely surprises, such as a fun length of singletrack hidden in the bush between State Circle and Capital Circle, the ring roads that protect Parliament House on Capital Hill. Who knew?

Wrong turns, interminable ascents, and a phone that jumped out of Gerda’s pannier and had to be hunted down via Google location tracking, turned the first day into an epic. With the clock ticking, we only stopped for lunch when we physically ran out of energy. After a quick wrap and a water refill from a dirty billabong, we entered Goorooyaroo Nature Reserve, where relatively flat and well-groomed trails gave us hope we might make camp before nightfall. However, the roos were out in force by the time we crossed into Mulligan’s Flat Woodland Sanctuary, so I made the decision to excise an unnecessary detour to the top of a hill. Shortcutting not only saved us valuable time but stymied the clearly sadistic fantasies of the trail architect. I imagined them hunched over their drawing board, giggling evilly at the thought of sending unsuspecting riders on a pointless climb right at the culmination of a long day.

We were still several kilometres short as the gloaming deepened to full dark. Our head torches weren’t cutting it, so we had to abandon the expeditious downhill for fear of being felled by a rogue rock, or a branch in the spokes. A lift over the fence to the main road seemed a good call, one that required an escalating series of lifts to correct and ending in a field of thigh-deep grass. We bumped our poor machines onward, their chains and cogs clogging with foliage, until we finally identified the lights of the only purpose-built camp site on the Canberra Centenary Trail. At that point we just ploughed over and through every obstacle to reach sanctuary and collapsed in a heap under the shelter. It’d been a rough day.

Freewheeling fun… well, most of the time

It’s a well-known fact that hills work in both directions, and one of the highlights of the weekend was the next day’s sweet, sweet descent off One Tree Hill. The freewheeling seemed to go on forever as we coasted in ecstasy all the way down to Hall, where we celebrated with a pie and a cold Coke. It was to prove a short day; having thoughtlessly used up the single CCT campsite all in one go, we had to aim for a mystery tent icon on the Gaia GPS app. This turned out to be the privately-run Alivio Tourist Park, and although it took us about two seconds to get used to the idea of a swimming pool and a shower, we were turned away due to their lack of unpowered sites. To avoid being benighted in the city and accidentally pitching our tent on a traffic roundabout, we hope to do so somewhere on Black Mountain, where we stealth camped in the forest and were in bed by 8pm. 

The early mark effectively put paid to our three-day schedule, but our sorrows were assuaged by a gorgeous start to Easter Sunday. The sun was still glinting low in the trees when we packed up and pushed off, cruising through the beautiful Cork Oak Forest and on to Dairy Farmer’s Hill. While this was another of those unnecessary detours, we tackled it anyway, as it was still early and ascending the series of long, lazy, looping switchbacks made us feel like mountain kings. We rolled cheerily down to the National Arboretum before briefly joining the Lake Burley-Griffin circuit, complete with ambling pedestrians, traffic lights and families of ducks.

If day three seemed to be going too well, fate soon intervened. Gerda casually mentioned her rear wheel was wobbling, and over lunch at the buzzing MTB epicentre of Mt Stromlo Forest Park, I discovered the tyre rubber had perished in storage. It was literally coming apart at the bead and looked like it could pop at any second. How lucky this happened right outside the only bike repair shop we were to see all trip! And how utterly predictable that their range of 26-inch tyres numbered precisely zero.

Repair options exhausted, we settled for swapping bikes for the rest of the day, and I rode with my fingers crossed through probably the most spectacular section of the Canberra Centenary Trail – Red Rocks Gorge. This dual-use track contours along the side of a wide canyon, the Murrumbidgee River tumbling playfully over its rocky bed below. The lookout halfway along is worth a dedicated visit the next time you’re in Canberra.

Our trail architect fantasy had by now evolved to the point where we imagined the first incumbent being sacked for his cruel and unusual detours and replaced with a more benevolent draughtsperson. When the climb out of the gorge made its inevitable appearance, I pictured the two of them fighting over the drawing board, each struggling to imprint their personality on the trail.

We emerged at Tuggeranong, coincidentally the very place to which we’d planned to drive back on completion of the trail, and where we’d therefore booked a hotel. Having a good 20km still to go and a comfy bed beneath her was too much for Gerda. She announced her intention to DNF due to tyre and seat failure and fell upon a bottle of wine like she’d just finished dry September.

Adding up the fun

As I pedalled those last few kilometres to my mate’s place the next morning, I reflected on our bikepacking experience. I scored the Canberra Centenary Trail 7/10 (excellent quality and variety of riding, but infrastructure needs serious work), our luck 8/10 (bad was mostly balanced by good, and the weather was sublime throughout), and our physical achievement 6/10 (joint pain was rife, and Gerda was a hike-a-bike expert by the end). When I averaged these figures to find an overall weekend score, I came up with 10/10. Maybe I’m a poor mathematician, but that seemed about right to me!

The post ACTing loopy: Cycling the Canberra Centenary Trail appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Nowadays, lakeside communities radiate chilled holiday vibes, and only a short bus ride away, the bustling metropolitan ambience of Newcastle provides all the luxuries of city living. More than 170 kilometres of shoreline, 110 square kilometres of waterways, and an endless expanse of bays, beaches, dunes, islands, and headlands make up the Lake Macquarie landscape. However, mother nature presents a wide range of contrasting micro-environments beyond the water’s edge. Just a short distance inland, freshwater creeks and deep slot canyons cut through lush rainforest gullies, fed by cascading waterfalls tumbling off the sandstone escarpment of the Great Dividing Range. This diverse landscape offers an ideal playground for outdoor enthusiasts where relaxed lakeside camping melds seamlessly with action-packed adventure.

For those who value five-star lodgings and culinary experiences equal to our five-star adventures, a lengthy menu of ‘foodie’ and accommodation options is available. Everything from craft breweries to hidden coffee shops and fine dining is catered for, but the ’80s holiday charm of ice cream and fish ’n’ chips by the foreshore has not been forgotten.

Caves, Cold Chisel and classic chardies

I used to think the best way to start an adventure was to dive in mud, blood, and guts. However, with my partner Lauren just arriving from the USA and an early morning soul-surf lesson on our schedule, we decide a round of Bloody Marys might be better than risking bloodying ourselves. So, we promptly book ourselves into a luxurious villa at Caves Coastal Bar & Bungalows, ready to embark on a cushy-kinda-adventure.

According to local history, Caves Beach owes its popularity to a group of surf lifesavers from Swansea who built a new club at the south end of the beach in the late 1920s. Today, that same wild coastline is dotted with jagged rocky reefs and pristine sandy beaches. Nestled within the rocky headlands lies an intricate network of awe-inspiring sea caves, sculpted over time by the ocean’s relentless power. These magnificent caves are accessible only during low tide, and the best time to visit is when a low tide coincides with dawn. As the sun rises over the ocean, it bathes the sea caves in a golden glow and creates a stunning silhouette of the sandstone rock arches against the sunrise’s vibrant pink and orange hues. For many, such a sight is well worth the visit alone.

Caves Coastal Bar & Bungalows is only a short stroll from the beach. This resort-style accommodation offers a range of beachside bungalows, villas, and townhouses, all interconnected by timber boardwalks. Loz and I find ourselves in a peaceful lagoon-view bungalow with a private overwater deck, a perfect setting to plan our week-long Lake-Mac Luxe adventure. However, Loz’s idea of an adventure is primarily food exploration with a sidebar of physical activity, and she’s already booked us into TINTA Belmont for dinner.

Located at the picturesque Belmont Jetty, TINTA is the perfect spot to appreciate sunset views of Lake Macquarie and the Watagan Mountains while indulging in a glass of bubbles and some brilliant meals. Whatever your fare – paddock, garden, or sea – there is a plethora of local produce, accompanied by local Hunter Valley wines. There is no better way to fuel up for our days of adventure ahead. 

Sun, sand, surf… and turf

There’s not much better in life than waking to the sound of waves crashing on a nearby shoreline, but as much as my desire is to race to the waves, caffeine is a priority. Thus, it is a pleasant surprise to find both Mylo’s (at Caves Beach Surf Club) and Boffee Cafe (a five-minute walk from the beach) offering quality barista coffee. Mylo’s offers the best sunrise location; however, Boffee opens an hour earlier and serves Melbourne-style latte art. I am quickly sold. As such, Loz and I find ourselves with Boffee coffee in hand, waiting by the waves for Mikayla from Women Soulful Surf.

Tall, blonde, and confident, Mikayla epitomises the ‘Bronzed Aussie’ image. Following brief introductions, she happily admits she lives for the ocean and Women Soulful Surf. Created by yoga instructor and keen surfer Helena Richardson, Women Soulful Surf aims to promote health and fitness of both body and mind for women, primarily through yoga and surfing.

Now, gender-specific activities are not usually Loz’s preference, but Mikayla’s calm, casual, and inclusive approach to teaching quickly wins her over. It immediately becomes apparent (to both of us) that Mikayla offers a much more thorough understanding of both female physiology and psychology, which resonates far better than my “half-arsed-boyfriend-surf-lessons” that typically involve a lot of eye-rolling from both parties.

Thirty minutes into the lesson, Loz’s tentative nervousness has been replaced with focused determination to surf every wave to the shore, and she is doing so often. By the time I return from a sneaky body-surf, Loz is messaging her sister in England with a plan to meet up at the Women Soulful Surf camp in Lombok, Indonesia. And I am not invited.

Later, we bust back for brekky at Boffee. Just as we are about to dig in, Pete from Out & About Adventures buzzes my phone.
“Are we on for this afternoon?” he asks excitedly. “Meet at 12. Oh! And bring spare socks.”
Pete guides everything from kayaking or caving to canyoning and climbing, and his home just so happens to be on the doorstep of Watagans National Park. 

Watagans National Park, sprawling across roughly 6,751 hectares is a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts. The park boasts numerous walking trails, day-visit areas, and campgrounds that offer a host of activities such as hiking, gravel-biking, cycle touring, picnicking, swimming, canyoning, rock climbing, abseiling, and camping. Adjacent to the national park are Watagan, Olney, and Heaton state forests and Jilliby State Conservation Area, open to a range of activities such as horse riding, four-wheel driving, camping, trail bike riding, and mountain bike riding.

We begin our journey at the newly reopened Gap Creek campground. The campsite is located amidst grass trees, ironbark, and towering blue gum trees. For a booking fee of only six dollars guests enjoy free gas BBQs, fire pits, pit toilets and picnic tables, whilst wallabies, goannas, and even lyrebirds can all be found within a “Coo-ee” of camp. With limited mobile reception, the campground is ideal for outdoor enthusiasts seeking tranquility and adventure.

Donning packs, we head for Gap Creek Falls, a moderately challenging 30-minute, 1.5-kilometre (return) walk. Beginning at the visitor’s car park, the track winds through towering eucalyptus trees before descending a rock staircase and a slightly rutted path to a breathtaking natural amphitheatre. Cascading 40 metres from the cliffs above, the sight of Gap Creek Falls in full flow is mighty impressive, which is why it is widely regarded as one of the finest waterfalls in the Hunter Region. On a hot day, a refreshing dip in the rocky pool beneath the falls is a luxury before a rather sweaty climb back to the car.

Following Peter’s lead, we explore deeper into the towering blue gum, spotted gum, and blackbutt forest. The vivid red of the Illawarra flame trees penetrates the canopy and adds a touch of vibrancy to the lush green landscape. As contours grow closer, the old man banksia of dry sclerophyll forest gives way to the strangler fig and giant tree ferns of damp rainforest gullies. Soon, we are wading in crystal-clear streams, home to eastern freshwater crayfish. On noticing the stream’s disappearance, Peter reveals a deep slot canyon cutting through the landscape with an abseil and underwater swim. Unfortunately, we don’t have a canyoning kit with us.

Pushing forward for another half hour, we stumble upon a rocky outcrop. Under an overhang is a stencil painting of a handprint and boomerang, clearly visible. Intrigued, we notice a barely discernible faded handprint to the side. This region is home to numerous indigenous sites, both listed and unlisted, including hidden rock art. Among these sites are those with great significance to the Awabakal community. Additionally, visitors can explore the middens and stone quarries of Glenrock State Conservation Area, the axe-grinding grooves, and middens of Ngor-rion-bah (Jewells Swamp), and Pulbah Island, where Naruta-Ka-Wa, the Great Sky Lizard, resides.

We take a moment to consider life when the Awabakal people hunted thriving populations of the now-threatened brush-tailed rock wallaby or yellow-bellied glider. The stencils are a poignant reminder of the rich history of this land and the Indigenous peoples who inhabited it long before us. 

Returning to our vehicles, exhausted but exuberant, we quickly head back to our accommodation just in time to change from jungle khaki to denim and linen; much better suited to the buzzing vibe of Caves Coastal Bar where we relax and unwind over some tacos and live band after our invigorating hike.

Coastal cruising

I’ll be honest: any walking track that starts at a cafe is a win in my books, especially one that happens to also start on a picturesque beach. In short, the Coastal Walking Track, beginning at Mylo’s Cafe at Caves Beach, is hard to beat. 

The Coastal Walking Track is a picturesque 5km (return) walk meandering south from Caves Beach to Pinny Beach. It varies from beach walking to suburban pathways to firetrails and singletrack, contouring the coast to Wallarah NP. The hike offers stunning views of the cliffs, beaches, and open Pacific Ocean and takes anywhere from a few hours to all day, depending on whether you choose to swim, fish, surf, or whale/bird watch along the way.

Immediately out of Caves Beach, Loz and I are met by several reptilian friends. Firstly, a chilled python enjoying the sun and clear skies as much as we were, and then several inquisitive jacky dragons. We aren’t quite in-season for humpback or southern right whale sightings (keep an eye out in winter). Still, as we head toward Spoon Rock Bay, we are thrilled to spy a nankeen (Australian) kestrel darting in and out of the undergrowth, whilst a majestic white bellied sea eagle soars above the cliffs and coves. 

Not far into the walk we arrive at Spoon Rock Bay, a hidden gem on a hot day. The old Mawson breakwall shelters the secluded beach, and it can be a haven for swimming or snorkelling when other beaches are affected by wind and swell. The beach is un-patrolled year-round, so it is not a smart choice for families or visitors unused to the ocean. 

Heading south from Spoon Rock Bay, the coast gets rocky and wild, but the track is easygoing as it winds past Quarry Beach and Quarry Head. The heathland is criss-crossed with old four-wheel drive trails, but continuing south, the main track descends to Pinny Beach.

Far enough from civilisation to feel secluded, yet only a short 1km walk back to Spoon Rock Road, Pinny Beach is an ideal destination for those short on time. Exposed to the brunt of the Pacific Ocean, it is excellent for rock fishing and offers decent surf in the right conditions. However, being a deep water, un-patrolled beach with rips at both ends, it is better for land-based exploration and not recommended for swimming or snorkelling on all but the calmest days. 

Regrettably, with an afternoon of mountain biking (MTB) on the agenda, we cut short our tidal pool pottering to return to Caves Beach. Those seeking a longer walk can continue 3.7km south to Catherine Hill Bay and its historic pier. Along the route, a 1km detour leads to some old graffiti’d WWII bunkers and remnants of RAAF Radar Station 208, or you can remain on the coast to explore Shark Hole, where a ladder and rope allows hikers to descend into a unique slot-canyon-like chasm. 

Coastal cranking

Following a spectacular morning traipsing beachside singletrack, I look forward to hitting Glenrock Mountain Bike Park for a speedier experience of the region’s coastal trails. Found within Glenrock State Conservation Area, the Glenrock trails are a success story of NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service working hand in hand with Glenrock Trail Alliance to convert a former network of unsanctioned trails into 14km of purpose-built singletrack and 20km of linked management track.

Only a short drive from Newcastle, Glenrock has become a popular destination for mountain bikers of all levels. Predominantly made up of cross-country, all-mountain and flow trails, the network also has a smattering of janky downhills and jump tracks. The dusty berms and small rock hips of the blue trails are superb fun for novice to intermediate riders but simultaneously test skill and nerves for gravity-fiends who want to charge at Mach-10. Not only do the trails fall from dusty sandstone to lush rainforest, but Glenrock is one of the few mountain bike destinations in Australia where trails finish on the beach.

While Loz chooses to sit this out, Chris Ting from VMG E-Mountain Bikes and Matt Edwards from Trails View Cycle Trader in Sydney use the afternoon to pedal their bikes rather than wares. Local legends Dane Critchlow and Laura Renshaw also interrupt a weekend racing the Black Pearl Quad Crown MTB event (held in this region) to offer our motley crew a taste of their local trails. 

For novices and families, the Yuelarbah Trail is an easy 2km gravel road descending past Little Flaggy Creek to Burwood Beach. Perfect for ‘cruisers’ who prefer swimming over sweating, the trail leads to the beach and lagoon, offering an opportunity to cool off on a hot summer day. For a side excursion, a stroll along the Yuelarbah walking track leads to some waterfalls, or a pedal along the eastern portion of Baileys Management Trail offers a friendly blue trail weaving through picturesque woodlands.

For adrenalin seekers, however, plenty of rocky and dusty singletrack exist to challenge even the best. Straight from the car park, Double Barrel is a green trail leading to the fun switchbacks of Twisties. We hit both a few times to get our legs working before searching for something steeper. Traversing the western boundary, Kenny’s transports riders to the Northern end of the park, with an optional sneaky rock garden of Kenny’s Black along the way. If berms, switchbacks, rocks, and drops are more your thing, then the black-diamond fun of BJ’s Surprise is for you. Our posse spends a good hour hooting and hollering a mix of trails before finding ourselves at the coast.

From the beach, we about-face to bust up Snakes and Ladders and hook into Seismic’s newly built flowing berms before wrapping with airtime practice on Pump Action and Six Shooter. 

With so much on offer, we could keep exploring, but a sinking sun means a beeline back to the cars, albeit with an old-fashioned skid-fest along the way.  Back at the car, I receive a message from Loz: “Tomorrow is sorted. You will need your board shorts. Oh, and maybe a tie.” I guessed her menu exploration has been a success as well.

Foiling and fine dining

It isn’t until midday that we roll into Trinity Point Marina for a quick bite before our first-ever FLITE Board experience. I’m expecting a battered boat shed and fish-chips and so you can imagine my surprise when instead of diesel-stained salty dogs there are chino-clad gents in Polo Ralph Lauren shirts and ladies wearing Victoria Beckham dresses. Out the front of the 350-seat grand dining room of 8 at Trinity a Bentley Continental is parked. Upon entry, two cocktails sit waiting at the bar; one is changing colour before my eyes, and the other is wafting smoke into the air. I spy a $400 Japanese Kagoshima A5/Mbs12+ Wagyu Scotch Fillet on the menu (whatever that means), and then a waiter walks past with Hong Kong-style whole lobster. Loz is at home and grinning ear to ear. And so, “When in Rome, order a smoking cocktail!” I say.

Sat within view of our soon-to-be FLITE Board arena, we meet with managing director of 8 at Trinity, Natalie Johnson. She and her husband, Keith, built the venue from the ground up, and she reveals, “Half the locals thought we were mad. But I knew it would work.” Now, serving up to 1000 patrons daily and with a queue out the door, even the locals admit to liking a bit of luxury.

Arriving at the marina, our instructor, Kelsy, explains FLITE boarding as simply surfing on an electric hydrofoil. A hand throttle regulates speed, and the aim is to find yourself flying smoothly, half a metre above the surface. 
“Just take it easy and start on your knees,” he advised. 
Too late, I jump straight to my feet and promptly face-plant the water. Surprisingly, and with a taste of humble pie and a little coaching, I soon find myself cruising half a metre above the lake only 15 minutes later. I quickly learn arcs are better than cutbacks, while sweeping turns keep the speed, and the grin. For 45 minutes, we slice up a mirror-like Lake Macquarie and had our batteries not faded with the light, I might have kept going. 

Returning to 8 At Trinity, we overindulge yet again. I am definitely getting the hang of this ‘luxe’ adventure thingy. 

Urban clamping and a saltmarsh sail

We don’t have far to travel for our night’s lodgings, for we have decided to shift camp to a Safari Tent at Sails Holiday Park in Belmont. The two-bedroom glamping tents offer a stylish, rustic ambience with plenty of creature comforts. There’s an ensuite bathroom, air-conditioning, a cushy four-post queen bed, and a hanging wicker armchair with pony rider cushions for some downtime reading. Yep, it’s seriously comfy.

Full from our long lunch, we nibble charcuterie on the deck before settling in for a restful night under canvas. We also take it easy with a coffee on the deck the next morning before meeting Shaun at Lake Macquarie Kayak Adventures. 

With a breeze whipping up whitecaps on the lake, we are glad when Shaun suggests a two-hour eco-kayak at Black Neds Bay rather than battling the waves on open water. Sandwiched between the Pacific Highway, Swansea Channel, Swansea Heads and Caves Beach, the coastal waters around Black Neds Bay are a haven for crabs, juvenile fish, stingrays, and a plethora of waterbirds. The bay is named after a local Awabakal man, who was the last of his tribe, and lived on the bay with his wife in the mid-1800s. It is a twitcher’s heaven; ospreys stand guard over the channel looking for surfacing salmon while crested terns swoop the shallows for baitfish. Egrets, heron, oyster-catchers and curlews are all in abundance, and below the surface mud crabs, stingrays and even dusky flatheads can be spied through the transparent hull of the kayaks.

Having paddled to the sandy stretch of Mats Point in the Swansea Channel, we return to Black Neds Bay to weave our way back through a maze of mangroves. Far from the adrenalin sports of mountain biking or flight boarding, this coastal cruise is a much calmer experience and a perfect way to dial things back—an excellent activity for families or those new to kayaking. 

Unsurprisingly, we eventually dock our kayaks to the simultaneous grumble of Loz’s stomach and so beeline for some lakeside pub grub. Our destination is the massive overwater deck at Crusoe’s on the Lake at Lake Macquarie Yacht Club. There’s plenty of seafood on the menu and burgers, schnitzels, and nibbles. We hook in, buoyed by our excuse of needing to ‘fuel up’ before SUP and kiteboarding the following day. 

A cold front rolling off the Watagans Mountains stymies our day of kitesurfing and SUP with Jamie at Kite and SUP in Warners Bay, but our lactic muscles thank the weather gods for a day of rest. Instead, we take advantage of the Lakehouse at Fishing Point for some home cooking and R&R. The lavish, four-bedroom modern house is overkill for just the two of us. Still, a gallery kitchen, private pool and manicured foreshore lawn leading to a private jetty is not wasted on either of us. Moreover, the garage provides an ideal spot to charge our e-bikes for the next day’s adventures.

More bikes… and breweries

Awaba’s dense eucalypt and lush rainforest trails are a long way from the coastal trails of Glenrock, so it was rather fortunate when trail builder, MTB advocate, and Hunter Mountain Bike Club vice president Dallas Barham turned up to offer a quick overview.

While he can’t ride with us, Dallas quickly suggests hitting the Development Track for a warm-up. Then maybe get the legs and heart pumping a little on the Mount Faulk Trail Climb before traversing the Biraban Track. If we want to truly test our mettle, the double-black-diamond trail ‘Monkey’ serves as a Pro level DH track, but Dallas is quick to explain it is a full-face, body armour kind of trail, so maybe we best not tackle it in the all-mountain gear we are adorned in. 

Local legend Dane Critchlow has once again agreed to act as a guide. Not so coincidentally, Dane’s property sits adjacent to the Awaba trails, which we agree is close to the perfect home base. With Dane onboard, we soon convince the VMG crew to join again, but this time, MTB coach Chris Tobin and his hard-charging daughter Amy also turn up… to show us up. Our posse is complete.

We smash out a couple of loops of the Development Track and are immediately pumped. It is only rated green, but is super fun and perfect for families, beginners, and adaptive bikes. The Hunter Mountain Bike Club has put immense effort into building trails suitable for adaptive bikes, and Dallas hopes to expand the Awaba adaptive network to build more loops. At present, the adaptive network includes Breakaway Loop and Twisties Skills.

After two laps of the development trail, it becomes apparent that today’s Awaba posse is not here to dilly-dally, so we hit the Faulks Road climb. Pedal-assist is a blessing, and we soon encounter the Biraban Track. As sweat increases, so does our small posse’s froth factor. Moments later, we are traversing spectacular rainforest gullies on elaborate metal grate-ways and winding our way through the forest. We descend a short switchback mecca through an impressive grass-tree garden, and with every feature being ‘rollable’, we can blast the trails as fast as our capabilities allow. 

While super fun for intermediates, Chris, Matt, and Dane show us how a blue trail can be ridden at the next level if you find the right corners to rail and rocks to pop. Amy is very obviously her father’s daughter, showing us all up with a smooth riding style, and so it is only a short time before we are back in the rainforest and lower altitude trails. 

Looping through palm forest and over streams, the air is cooler, and we could have gone all day, but once again, I get a ping on my phone. I am overdue for an appointment with Bread and Brewery in Morisset… and nobody should keep a brewer waiting. I hastily depart.

I meet Jay Beckham at Bread and Brewery still adorned in mountain bike apparel and am immediately drawn into a world of barley, hops, and ancient brewing techniques. Jay is all about small-batch, bespoke beers for those who want to have their palettes challenged. When Loz explains she doesn’t like beer, Jay is ecstatic. 
“You are the exact customer I love!“ he excitedly proclaims.
“My beers are not what you might expect. Yes, I have lagers and IPAs, but most of my brews are cultivated from people, personalities, and objects. Some are sweet, some are sour, some… well, I don’t even know what they are. I do have a beer that draws from a diesel mechanic who wants to retire on a lemon farm.” And with that, he fills a tasting glass.

I’ve got to be honest; I am beginning to think maybe Jay is batsh#t-crazy, but I take a sip all the same. Incredulously, the ale starts smooth and smoky but ends with a citrus zing. Jay is not mad; he’s a genius. We spend the next hour talking about all things beer, and Jay reveals he hopes to change the way people think about beer but also do so without destroying the planet. He points to the living wall and reveals the plants are fixed to old shipping pallets. Even our tasting glasses are moulded from cut-down Corona bottles. He elaborates on a dream to make bread from used hops. He hasn’t managed to get that one approved yet, so he has partnered with Burnt Honey Bakery to get it done. 

On the beer front, Loz is enjoying what she describes as more a “Pet-Nat wine than a beer.” Jay doesn’t just champion his brewing but also that of Lake Mac Brewing Co, and The Yard Brewery and Smokehouse, both around the corner. We have a tasting schedule with The Yard next, so say farewell to Jay, but not without nabbing a growler of Kryptonian Hefeweizen to take with us.

The Yard Brewery and Smokehouse is a brewery and popular dining establishment offering everything from brisket to pizza and wine to cocktails. There’s live music on weekends, a vast bar and outdoor area and a cafe serving quality coffee. 

As I sample the Oat Cream IPA, I notice a sourness in Loz’s expression. I haven’t realised that Loz has starved herself all day in preparation for a Smokehouse brisket burger with American cheese and homemade BBQ sauce. But I took too long mountain biking and we’ve missed the kitchen. 

My overly long MTB ride, has also meant we’ve missed a visit to Lake Mac Brewing Co, one of the ‘originals’ of the local brewing scene. Run by owner Luke Willis, it specialises in sustainable brewing with fun pales and spicy chicken wings Yep, I really was in trouble. Uh, oh…

More than one excuse to return

It’s the last night of our Lake-Mac-Attack, and not wanting to leave on a ‘downer’ (read: I need to redeem myself), we beeline to Mizumi Japanese in Toronto… and I am saved. Even Loz agrees our Japanese feast might have been worth missing the brisket. With gyoza and nigiri aplenty, we reflect on a whirlwind week. We’ve surfed, trekked, mountain biked and kayaked. We’ve been served coffee by the sea and fish ’n’ chips by the lake and sampled some of the finest dining in NSW.  We’ve experienced Awabakal culture to surf culture to dirt culture, all less than two hours from Australia’s largest city. 

There is little doubt the landscape has changed for the Awabakal people of Lake Macquarie, but it remains a Garden of Eden. A Garden of Eden for the curious mind, the curious of palette and the curious of speed. All souls who appreciate a merging of cultural, adrenaline, and luxury experience. Undoubtedly, we will leave with our bucket list a little lighter. However, there’s always an excuse to return, and for us, maybe that brisket burger did us a favour: I think I already hear Loz’s stomach grumbling.

Mark was a guest of Lake Macquarie Tourism.

The post Welcome to Wonderland: Exploring Lake Macquarie, NSW  appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Wilderness Coast Walk

Distance: 100km one way  Time: 5 days  Difficulty: Hard

In the far eastern corner of Victoria lies Croajingolong National Park, close to the border with NSW. There is little access to this beautiful park – it’s been left to the birds, the wind and the waves. The aim is for this wilderness area to exist in as near a natural state as possible. This long-distance walk winds along the coastline in a south-westerly direction from Mallacoota to Bemm River via Point Hicks Lighthouse (and it’s also possible to walk north from Mallacoota to Nadgee in NSW).

It’s a rugged walk, with long beach sections, river crossings, fallen trees and sometimes overgrown trails, but an exceptional one if you love a sense of isolation and feeling close to the natural world. The best section can be done as a three-day walk in either direction if you can arrange transport – Mallacoota to Benedore River campsite (18km), Benedore to Wingan Inlet campsite (14km), Wingan to Thurra River campsite (20km). There is lighthouse accommodation at Point Hicks near Thurra River. Campsites must be booked with Parks Victoria, and you’ll need topographic maps and tide charts.  

Razorback to Mt Feathertop

Distance: 22km return  Time: 7–8 hours  Difficulty: Hard

Standing at 1922m, Mt Feathertop is Victoria’s second highest mountain (after Mt Bogong). This picturesque trail above the tree line from Mt Hotham to Feathertop’s summit follows the craggy spine of the Razorback Ridge. Trek through open snow grass fields, low shrubs and snow gum woodlands, and pass over a number of rocky bluffs. From the Feathertop peak, you’ll feel on top of the world with alps and valleys in every direction.

The track starts opposite the A-framed Diamantina Hut on the Great Alpine Road, 2km before Hotham Village. The well-defined track heads north along the ridge, rising to a knoll at the top of Bon Accord Spur (an alternate route to Harrietville) before descending into a steep-sided gully named the Big Dipper. Once out of the gully the trail continues around the eastern edge of the Razorback, through a patch of snow gums and across flowery meadows. A long stretch along the ridge will have you taking in the endless ranks of mountain ranges, before the route swings right at Champion Spur to head beneath the rocky bluffs of Twin Knobs. There’s an impressive rock garden wedged into the side of the craggy peaks and in summer, this area is blanketed in wildflowers.

Hugging the western side of High Knob (1801m), the path drops down to Diamantina Spur junction and Federation Hut soon comes into view to the north-west. This is a good place to rest before the final ascent or to seek shelter if the weather turns bad. Just past the three-way junction in a col below Little Mt Feathertop, keep right to begin the final climb to the summit. It’s steep and involves some scrambling over loose shale but the effort is absolutely worthwhile. Note that the razorback ridge is very exposed, and walkers should be prepared for poor weather at any time, including rain, snow and strong winds (even in summer). Conditions can change extremely quickly.  

Tarra Valley Loop

Distance: 8.2km circuit  Time: 2.5 hours  Difficulty: Easy

Little known outside the state, Tarra-Bulga National Park in South Gippsland is a rare oasis of cool temperate rainforest harbouring enormous mountain ash trees and exquisite fern gullies. You might spot the South Gippsland koala and hear the calls of lyrebirds, whipbirds, and yellow-tailed black-cockatoos. There are several short walks from the park visitor centre that can be combined into a longer loop. 

Starting from the visitor centre at Balook, where you can pick up a map, take the Link Track to join the Scenic Track through a very beautiful forest section to Corrigan Suspension Bridge. Cross the bridge to take Ash Track, then turn left onto Lyrebird Ridge Track. From the picnic area continue along Forest Track for 2km. At the next junction continue left to reach Wild Cherry Track, then return to the same junction, now heading left along Old Yarram-Balook Rd to reach the main road. Turn right to return to the visitor centre.

To further explore this magical region, you can walk a section of the Grand Strzelecki Track, which connects parts of Morwell National Park, Tarra-Bulga National Park, the Gunyah Rainforest Reserve, and 30,000ha of privately managed protected forests. This 100km trail is maintained by dedicated volunteers and topographic maps are available from their website, grandstrzeleckitrack.org.au.  

Bells to Anglesea

Distance: 14km one way  Time: 4 hours  Difficulty: Medium

This coastal walk south of the Bellarine Peninsula is part of the Surf Coast Walk, a 44km walk from Point Impossible, all the way along the coast to Fairhaven, passing through magnificent ironbark forests and coastal heathlands, along towering sea cliffs and curving crescents of sparkling sand beaches. It also takes in some of the Surf Coast’s popular tourist towns along the way, which means that walking between accommodation is very simple. 

This accessible walk is broken into 12 short sections so can be tackled as half day walks or one long-distance walk over 2 or 3 days. Sections 5 and 6 run through Great Otway National Park and have the most wild and remote feel. Section 5 starts from Bells Beach, where the Rip Curl Pro Surfing Competition is held every Easter thanks to its fierce reef breaks. The path follows rugged cliffs to climb up to the Jarosite Headland, then heads down through the undisturbed bushland of Ironbark Basin and along the Koori Cultural Walk to reach expansive views from Point Addis.

From the Point (Section 6) there’s a stretch of untamed beach to Red Rocks before the path ascends to the cliff again where you can breathe deeply and watch the breakers roll in. Finally, descend through bushland, where there is a good chance of spotting kangaroos and wallabies, and walk through the foreshore reserve to the Anglesea River and township.

Falls to Hotham Alpine Crossing

Distance: 37km one way  Time: 3 days  Difficulty: Hard

Traversing the Bogong High Plains with pristine mountain scenery, the Falls to Hotham Alpine Crossing (FHAC) is fast becoming one of Australia’s most iconic multi-day treks. Connecting the alpine resorts of Falls Creek and Hotham, the trail winds along mountain ridges through snow gum woodlands and grassy plains blanketed in wildflowers, over rocky summits, and past historic huts.

This 37km hike is usually completed over three days, sleeping on camping platforms provided along the way. However, with a car shuffle or pick up, the walk can be split into two day-walks. From Heathy Spur to Cope Hut (14km) or Cope Hut to Mt Loch carpark (23km). Camp platforms have to be booked with Parks Victoria although you can camp anywhere if you leave no trace. As always, in alpine areas, walkers must be prepared for every kind of weather.  

The post Five great walks in Victoria appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Grand Canyon, NSW

Distance: 6.2km circuit  Time: 3–4 hours  Difficulty: Medium

There are many outstanding walks in the Blue Mountains, about 130km west of Sydney, but the Grand Canyon’s expansive vistas, narrow chasms, striking canyon scenery, and a surprise around each corner, ensure this walk is one of the most popular in the mountains. Much of the walk traverses a ledge that looks down into the canyon from above but there is a wonderful section where you’ll find yourself picking your way over stepping stones along the floor of the canyon. 

From the most westerly carpark the track zigzags downwards through open woodland, soon turning into damp forest. The vegetation is colourful and varied, with an abundance of waratahs in spring and flannel flowers in summer. Passing the ‘Rotunda’, a large overhang and Aboriginal occupation shelter, you’ll soon go through a completely enclosed tunnel, created many years ago by a rock fall. Emerging on the other side, you’ll pass under the spray of a waterfall. About 20 minutes after crossing a wooden bridge, the track meets Greaves Creek. It’s tranquil and sheltered here, and surprisingly cool even on the hottest of days. At the end of this stretch, there is a perfect swimming hole on your right. A couple of minutes further on you arrive at the Rodriguez Pass junction, leading to Beauchamp Falls. From this point the track ascends steeply to Evans Lookout, where there are views over the Grose Valley and across to Mt Banks and Mt Tomah.  From here, follow the easy footpath back to the carparks.

Despite the name, the Blue Mountains aren’t really mountains at all. The entire area is one huge plateau dissected by gorges and waterways. The canyons are formed by water running down planes of weakness in the rock and further scoured when flash floods toss rocks and debris along the canyon walls. This walk can be busy on the weekend so aim for midweek if possible.  

Breadknife and High Tops, NSW

Distance: 14.5km loop   Time: 5–6 hours  Difficulty: Medium

Warrumbungle National Park, situated about 35km west of Coonabarabran and some 140km northeast of Dubbo, is crisscrossed by sensational bushwalks, bursting with wildlife and dominated by a series of rugged volcanic outcrops. About 17-13 million years ago, a shield volcano in the Warrumbungle area oozed lava in thick plugs, cooling slowly to form the fine-grained trachyte we see today. The shield volcano has long since eroded away, but the plugs, dykes and cones remain. They are the distinctive features for which the Warrumbungles are known today, and they include the iconic 90m-high slice of jutting trachyte dubbed the Breadknife.

This walk is breathtaking in every way and makes for an incredibly satisfying day in the wilderness. Starting from Pincham carpark, the trail follows Spirey Creek then climbs steeply to Spirey View where you can see the Breadknife and Belougery Spire. Next, the path climbs away from the creek up into dry woodland, to reach Grand High Tops summit where you can take in a vista of the whole park, the Siding Spring Observatory to the east and Bluff Mountain to the west. From Dagda Gap this route heads west to Dows Camp (there is a 2.6km return side trip up Bluff Mountain here) before turning north towards Ogma Gap camp and West Spirey Track. 

The range’s relatively high position (with peaks up to 1206m), temperature extremes and location on the border of NSW’s dry western plains and moister eastern ecosystems means it has a strange mix of more than 620 plant species, ranging from spinifex and sticky daisy bush to white gums and western golden wattles. In winter the temperature can drop to freezing overnight. The wildflowers are superb in spring – on this track you’re likely to see purple hoveas, white daisy bushes, yellow wattles, and orange pea flowers.  

Coast Track, NSW

Distance: 9.7km  Time: 5 hours  Difficulty: Medium

The Coast Track is the jewel in the crown of Royal National Park, just south of Sydney. Stretching from Bundeena to Otford along the coastline, the track passes through several distinct landscapes: bare cliff-scapes south of Bundeena, wild moors between Wattamolla and Garie, open grassy slopes at South Era and North Era, and remnant rainforest and sheltered woodland between Burning Palms and Otford. The entire Coast Track is 28km, starting with a ferry from Cronulla and ending with a train from Otford back to Sydney. Very fit walkers can do it in a day or at a more leisurely pace in two, camping overnight at North Era, 8km from the start. 

However, if you can manage a car shuffle the best section is this day walk from Garie Beach to Otford, for its golden beaches, heritage beach huts, grand ocean views and shady forest paths. The beach shacks of Bulgo, Burning Palms, South Era and Garie were built during the Depression, when ample seafood supplemented scarce diets. Still without mains electricity and accessible only on foot, these shacks are now preserved under the National Trust. Other highlights include a huge shell midden at North Era, perhaps as much as 8000 years old, swamp wallabies south of Burning Palms beach and a sublime stretch of forest known as Palm Jungle.  

Namadgi Settlers Track, ACT

Distance: 9km circuit  Time: 3–4 hours  Difficulty: Easy

Namadgi was the name used by the local Aboriginal people for the mountain range south-west of Canberra. Gazetted in 1984, Namadgi National Park occupies almost half of the area of the ACT and encompasses spectacular views from its many mountain peaks. There are more than 160km of walking tracks in the park, but this one explores the cultural heritage of the Australian Alps with a look at the lives of late 19th-century settlers. This lovely loop walk meanders through forest, then open grassland and finally grassy woodland to see three pastoralists’ huts, restored by community group, Kosciuszko Huts Association (KHA), who have also researched the stories and photographs of the settlers, workers and their families seen on information boards along the walk.

William and Flora Brayshaw settled here in 1844 and Thomas and Mary Jane Westerman in 1882. Several generations were born and buried in this isolated and unforgiving landscape. The walk starts at Brayshaw’s Homestead, built in 1903 from timber slabs with a stone chimney. This rudimentary two-room cottage housed a bachelor for 28 years. It had no stove, just a camp oven, and it wasn’t until a family bought it in the 1930s that the walls were papered with newspaper to keep out icy draughts. The next hut, Waterhole, is even more rudimentary – built of corrugated iron in the 1930s to shelter stockmen who worked in the area, land-clearing and sheep drenching in the nearby stockyards. Westerman’s Homestead was built in 1916, the family’s third dwelling on this spot. There is a small graveyard and remnants of a garden with exotic trees.   

Gibraltar Peak, ACT

Distance: 8.2km return  Time: 3–4 hours  Difficulty: Medium

The big, grey, granite shapes of Gibraltar Peak (1038m) rise above Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve like the gently rounded backs of a herd of elephants. It’s not a dramatic peak but is nevertheless a satisfyingly stiff climb near the top and the flat summit is a wonderful place to linger over a picnic and some of the best views in the ACT.

Tidbinbilla, just to the south-west of Canberra, is a popular spot for a family barbecue among friendly kangaroos and emus, as well as more elusive koalas, brush-tailed rock-wallabies and echidnas. There’s a visitor centre, kiosk, and the fenced Tidbinbilla Sanctuary wetlands. The name of the reserve is thought to derive from the Ngunnawal word Jedbinbilla – a place where boys were made men, referring to initiation ceremonies.

The walk starts from Dalsetta carpark. About 500m from the start, look for an orange post that indicates left to Gibraltar Peak or straight ahead to the Xanthorrhoea Loop. If you have the energy at the start or end of your climb to the summit, it’s well worth the 1km detour here to see a magnificent stand of grasstrees (Xanthorrhoea australis). The track to the peak ascends gradually through open grassland, past relaxed mobs of kangaroos, to Eliza Saddle. From here it’s a steep climb up to a viewing platform and granite steps to the summit 800m further on. It’s possible to descend to the carpark via a fire trail but it’s a less interesting route. 

The post Five great walks in NSW and the ACT appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Research in 2017 showed that almost 10% of all trips to, from and within the British Columbian capital were made by bike, but cycling here isn’t all about commutes. Trails and bike routes radiate like spokes from Victoria into the surrounding regions and towns, creating one of Canada’s best cycling networks. It’s quite feasible to base yourself in the city each night and explore the island’s southern reaches by bike.

On the rails

Like Australia and New Zealand, Canada has embraced the contemporary concept of rail trails. More than 30 railway lines across the country have been converted into cycling routes, and of the four such trails in British Columbia, two begin in Victoria.

The best starting point is the Lochside Trail, connecting Victoria to the town of Sidney, near the tip of the Saanich Peninsula. Launched in 2001 amid the rush of global rail-trail openings, the 29-kilometre path follows a spur line that was once part of a planned railway from Victoria to Port Alberni.

In the early morning I cruise out of Victoria along the inner harbour, leaving in tandem with seaplanes and whale-watch boats, the smell of marine paint thick in the air as the trail skirts the city’s dry dock.

At Victoria’s edge, the ride turns, rattling over the Selkirk Trestle, a century-old, 300-metre-long wooden bridge spanning the Gorge Waterway. Once a food gathering site for First Nations people, then inevitably a sewage dump for settlers, the narrow gorge is now filled with rowers, dragon boats, SUPs, seals and sea otters. 

Just beyond the bridge, the trail forks, with the Lochside Trail turning right to begin its journey up the finger of the Saanich Peninsula. Crossing over the top of bird-hide-lined Blenkinsop Lake, the trail flickers from thickets of forest to rows of corn, with wild blackberries providing trail snacks in summer.

Around halfway to Sidney, the trail pops out onto quiet roads and open farmland. The main highway is a blur of movement beside me, but its hustle is nothing more than trailside scenery as I blow north on a tailwind that will be an anchor on my return.

Nearing Sidney, the planes of the nearby airport replace eagles in the sky, and soon I’m pedalling through the town, beelining for its pier, which is topped by a colourful fish market and restaurant and set beside a beach strewn with driftwood logs. As I peer out to sea, I’m looking not into Canada but the United States, with the border between the two countries swerving through the islands that dot the Strait of Georgia.

Talk to cyclists in Victoria and it’s always a second rail trail – the fairy-tale-sounding Galloping Goose – that dominates the discussion. Named for an unusual petrol-powered railway car that once operated between Victoria and Sooke, the Galloping Goose suitably attracts gaggles of bikes, at least around Victoria.

It rolls out of the city beside British Columbia’s Highway 1, shielded from view by the old railway levees. In the early morning, the path is filled with commuters and parents riding young kids to school. It’s a city preparing to work, though my own work will be 110 kilometres of cycling, taking me to the trail’s end in Sooke Potholes Provincial Park, near Vancouver Island’s southern tip, and back to Victoria.

As it parts from the freeway, it burrows through cuttings as deeply etched as canyons, with glimpses of farm buildings and paddocks through the cedar and fir forest. I couldn’t feel further from Victoria and yet I’m less than 30 kilometres from the city. And this Goose’s true beauties are still ahead.

As the ride swings west, Lake Matheson briefly appears below the trail, pinched between rocky bluffs. A few minutes on, I hit water again, only this time it’s the sea, with the trail taking to the northern shores of Rigby Cove, a lagoon-like bay that seeps deep into the island, to skirt the small town of Sooke.

The Galloping Goose’s star feature, and its turnaround point, is inland from Sooke. Through the valley that leads into Sooke Potholes Provincial Park, the trail crosses a series of old railway trestle bridges, and signs caution of recent bear sightings – the ultimate Canadian road hazard – though this day it’s empty of all but a few bikes and the occasional deer crossing the path around me.

At times the Sooke River is wide and beach-lined, and at other times it cuts a deep green line through razor-thin gorges connecting a daisy chain of deep pools that give the park its name and provide welcome swims at the midpoint of a long summer ride.

The pools aren’t the only liquid refreshment here. Returning to Sooke, less than 10 kilometres back along the trail, there’s the prospect of two craft breweries and the trailside Stickleback Oceanfront Cider and Taphouse, claiming to have the most beautiful deck on lower Vancouver Island. With yachts moored just offshore, bluffs of rock tumbling into the sea and a harbour seal cruising along the shore, it’s hard to argue. I have a few more hours of riding to come, but it can wait.

Garden runs

Places named Victoria don’t always have sexy slogans (hello ‘Victoria the Education State’), but BC’s capital has the bright and floral moniker of the Garden City. Suitably, a couple of its key gardens double as prime cycling destinations.

A great way to explore Victoria on two wheels is to follow its coastal trails to the lush gardens of Government House. As I set out riding one morning from the inner harbour, I’m quickly confronted by the strange urban sight of a deer crossing the main road. “Pretty brave deer given the price of beef at the moment,” a passing pedestrian quips as I stop to let the animal cross.

Along the coast I detour through Beacon Hill Park, home to the world’s tallest freestanding totem pole, and pass gravelly beaches so densely covered in driftwood they resemble firewood stacks. The coastal route heads as far east as suburban Oak Bay, where I turn back, weaving through the streets to Government House, the home of BC’s lieutenant governor and almost 15 hectares of gardens freely open to the public.

The gardens and house are wrapped inside another nine hectares of wild Garry oak forest – Canada’s only native oak species west of Manitoba – providing a rare look at the island ecosystem before the arrival of Europeans. The formal gardens are more manicured, with putting-green-worthy lawns dotted with giant conifers, oaks, rhododendrons, herb and rose gardens and the rarity of an alpine rock garden at sea level.

Surpassing Government House’s gardens – as a scene and as a ride – are the Butchart Gardens. Often ranked among the world’s most beautiful gardens, they’re a half-hour drive outside of Victoria, but also a popular (and better) trip on a bike.

The ride begins in now-familiar style – pedalling towards Sidney on the Lochside Trail. After 10 kilometres, the garden route veers away, taking to roads lined with farm veggie stalls and churches casual enough to call themselves St Mikes.

For the first time there are hills – the largest one capped with an astrophysical observatory and a posse of circling bald eagles – as the roads cut west across the peninsula to Butchart. Bike racks sit immediately beside the gates (take that, motorists!), making for quick entry into what might easily be labelled Canada’s prettiest industrial site. Once a limestone quarry and cement plant run by Robert and Jennie Butchart, it became Jennie’s dream to transform the quarry, which is today a national historic site and 22 hectares of gorgeous gardens visited by around one million people a year.

The return to Victoria presents options. I could ride back as I came, but this pocket of the Saanich Peninsula is also home to a cluster of seven wineries and, let’s be honest, cycling is thirsty work. Less than 3km from Butchart, Church and State Wines is Vancouver Island’s largest winery. On a deck looking straight down the lines of vines, I pause again for lunch – a menu of pizzas, bulgogi burgers and share plates, with more than a dozen wines available by the glass.

With a couple of glasses downed, I settle for a road-free return to Victoria, swinging onto the Interurban rail trail. This pathway is single-minded rather than scenic, functioning also as an access road for residents, though I see more snakes than cars. Soon, however, it frays into other cycling trails, and I settle on the longer, winding approach along the Glendale and Colquitz River trails, following a salmon-spawning waterway through a green corridor in keeping with my garden day.

Finally, I emerge beside Highway 1 again, back on the Galloping Goose. I turn, gather speed and ride once more with the gaggle into Victoria.

Fact Box

Bike hire (including touring bikes and ebikes), maps and plentiful riding information are available from Cycle BC , behind the harbourside Fairmont Express. Its website also has a guide to local routes, including those covered here. See Tourism Victoria for all info on this beautiful capital city.

Andrew travelled as a guest of Destination BC

The post Many spokes in the wheel: Cycling Vancouver Island appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Alongside the fat-tailed kangaroo is the Tasmanian tiger, absent from this landscape for some 6000 years, along with animals that remain here, like the northern quoll, snakes and emus. Others images depict spears, waterholes and human-like spirits. Sarah’s colleague, Jade Churnside, points out traditional medicine and food plants, and shows us grinding stones, used to make a bush bread from spinifex seeds.

A cultural landscape

I’m at Ngajarli (Deep Gorge) in Murujuga National Park, near Dampier, 1500 kilometres north of Perth. This staggering place is said to be home to the biggest collection of rock art in the world, with up to two million petroglyphs in the area. Song lines and legends link this place through the Western Desert to Uluru, and further east into Victoria. 

Given its significance, it’s incredible how few visitors come here. Located on the Burrup Peninsula, it’s an area better known as an industrial hub, the tourism potential overshadowed by infrastructure supporting the export of gas, iron ore, fertiliser and salt. But as I discover, if you step outside the industrial footprint, a treasure trove of wonders awaits.

I’ve joined a five-day Murujuga expedition kayak trip with Exmouth Adventure Co., and day one has started with this cultural awareness programme. Murujuga is the first national park in Western Australia to be co-managed, with the government and the Murujuga Aboriginal Corporation (MAC) sharing responsibilities. To understand further, our next stop is the MAC headquarters, where we meet Indigenous ranger coordinator, Peter Cooper. 

Peter says MAC is guided by a circle of elders (including himself) representing five traditional Indigenous language groups: the Ngarluma, the Mardudhunera, the Yaburara, the Yindjibarndi, and the Wong-Goo-Tt-Oo. 

While the national park protects 5134 hectares of the Burrup Peninsula, Australian National Heritage listing includes some 37,000ha across the Burrup and many of the 42 islands of the Dampier Archipelago. This larger area is being used as the starting point for an application for World Heritage listing, and MAC hopes Murujuga will be World Heritage listed in 2025.

As we learn, the artworks at Ngajarli are just the tip of the petroglyph iceberg. When people first started carving here, millennia ago, the coastline was 100km further out to sea, and today’s islands were mainland hills. Through various ice ages and sea levels changes, people have thrived here, and continued to carve.

The cultural landscape of Murujuga encompasses up to two million petroglyphs, across the mainland and islands, and to see more of them, we’ll need to take to the sea. This is where the kayaks come in. 

Island adventures

I’ll be paddling and camping through these islands for five days. While the company runs most of its tours at Ningaloo Reef, in 2023 Exmouth Adventure Co. launched its new expeditions here. Aside from Indigenous culture, this place has striking landscapes, prolific birdlife, and the richest marine biodiversity in Western Australia.

Our group consists of just three guests, guides Neri Grieve and Neil Brown, and off-duty guide, Kayleigh Brown. As the winds and currents here can be a factor, the trip is aimed at experienced kayakers, and we’re paddling two double and two single kayaks. Now, with our heads packed full of culture, we’re jamming our kayaks full of camping gear, food, and water, and paddling into the adventure.

Proceeding north up the Burrup Peninsula, we’re leaving the heavy industry behind. Our paddling rhythm is relaxed, and with a few kilometres under our belts, our first stop is on a gorgeous crescent of beach at Conzinc Bay. 

In a tiny beach shelter, Neri and Neil prepare the first of many buffet-style picnics for us, featuring freshly made salads, cold meats and falafel balls. Throughout this trip, I’ll be constantly amazed at the healthy and delicious meals that result from our kayak stores. 

While they’re chopping and dicing, Neri suggests we explore the mangrove creek on foot. Here we find the remnants of a fish trap, with rocks to catch fish that washed in on a high tide. The rocky outcrop at the entrance to the creek is marked with petroglyphs of humans, perhaps hunting a huge fish in this very trap. Elsewhere, we spot engraved leatherback turtles. 

Leaving the mainland, we’re crossing to the southern tip of Angel Island, accompanied by Australian humpback dolphins. Several turtles pop their heads up, and a shy dugong is startled by our presence.  

Angel Island is one of 25 islands here that comprise a nature reserve. Almost untouched, the islands have no facilities, walking tracks, or phone coverage. As soon as we’re amongst the islands, we feel like we’re on another planet.

If Angel Island is another planet, it might well be Mars, as the geology here is certainly glowing red in the late afternoon sun. We glide along silently in the shelter of the island, staring up at rocky, rusty cliffs. They’re offset against dazzling, white beaches, and a vibrant, turquoise ocean. Our only company here is the wildlife, and we’re regarded with suspicion by nesting ospreys, Caspian terns, and pied oyster catchers. 

We pull into a bay that’s unnamed on our map, and agree that to us, this will be Sunset Bay. We assemble our tents along the beach, just in time to enjoy a cheese platter and cold beer as the sun slumps into the sea. 

The next morning, the pre-dawn sky is tinged with mauve. From my tent, I see a flock of terns dive-bombing the ocean surface, which is boiling from beneath, a school of fish being attacked from above and below. Climbing a sand dune, I see the first golden rays highlight the fuzzy grey bushes and hardy clumps of spinifex.

Down below, Neil waves to me and holds up the coffee pot. Soon I’m fuelling up on porridge, fruit salad, yoghurt and toast. Neri delivers our morning briefing, and we’re back on the ocean, excited by the possibilities.

Rounding a rocky headland into yet another superb bay, the water is crystal clear revealing tabletop and boulder corals and myriad busy reef fish. 
“We’d be mad not to jump in for a snorkel,” Neri says.
I grab my mask, snorkel and fins, which are strapped to the front of my kayak, waiting for their time in the briny. Massive boulders from the landscape above continue underwater, and in the shadow of one, we find a snoozing tawny nurse shark. Butterfly fish and a juvenile black tip reef shark delight us, and under corals, we find lobsters. 

Remounting the kayak from deep water requires a particular technique Neri calls the ‘sunbathing dugong manoeuvre’. Kicking my fins, I push up to flop belly first across the kayak cockpit, then rotate my backside around, and I’m in, dripping wet and laughing. 

We settle into a routine of leisurely paddling, up to about 18km a day, with plenty of beach stops. Sometimes we chat, but often there’s easy silence, each of us lost in a reverie, tuned into the sounds of nature; bird calls, fish splashing, or a turtle’s breath. 

Our guides insist that this is our trip. The itinerary is fluid, and we’re encouraged to linger anywhere that piques our interest. When we come to large tracts of mangrove forest, we take a slow ‘mangrove meander’. The tangle of aerial roots provides sheltered habitat for turtles, rays and baby reef sharks, and we point them out to each other as they rocket away. Sometimes, there are too many to bother. 

Generations gone by

Across the islands we come across other reminders of earlier inhabitants. Standing stones, erected to signify important resources and ceremonial places are silhouetted on ridgetops. In many places we choose to camp, we see that others have stayed here too, with middens on the beach containing oyster and bailer shells, and many stone tools. And the petroglyphs are ubiquitous, documenting the natural world, the lifeblood of these tribes. 

Remembering Peter’s advice, there are some things we don’t photograph, and places we don’t enter. Beside one mangrove-lined inlet, a huge petroglyph depicts a male figure holding up a palm. This may be a sacred men’s area, so we continue past. 

There’s European history through these islands, too. The Dampier Archipelago was the heart of the WA pearling industry from 1870 to 1900, before the fleet moved north to Broome. We stop by the remnants of a pearling camp in Black Hawke Bay, and on Dolphin Island we visit six grave sites, believed to be pearlers. 

The pearlers were known to enslave Aboriginal men, women and children, and before we paddle across Flying Foam Passage, Neri tells us the sobering story of the 1868 massacre of the Yaburara Aboriginal people that occurred here. Together with smallpox and other illnesses, this massacre effectively obliterated this language group. 

Saddened by this, we soon turn our attention back to the petroglyphs and wildlife. We have many encounters with large marine animals. I almost snorkel into three whip-tailed rays, submerged in the sand with long, skinny tails protruding, and a two-metre-long lemon shark inspects me at close range, in knee-deep water. 

The mightiest of all are the humpback whales. Having glimpsed them splashing in the moonlight the night before, we’re now paddling out to the whale highway. Soon, we’re seeing the blow of a mother and her last-year’s baby. We maintain a very respectful distance, but suddenly the whales surface some 20 metres in front of us. As the mother slowly ushers the baby away, it makes a half-breach. From the front seat of my kayak, I feel incredibly small, and almost overcome with awe and gratitude for this moment.

Neri paddles us past a place she calls the Art Gallery. Here in this sheltered bay we simply drift, staring at a boulder hillside adorned with huge kangaroos, fish, and turtles. There are humpback whales, mid-breach, captured in stone. 

My mind wanders back to our induction with Peter on day one. He’d said that in this passage, 14 metres underwater, archaeologists had found a freshwater stream. Stone tools are down there too, left behind by the artists that carved here, before the last sea level rise. I picture this artwork continuing, down to the inky depths. 

It’s spooky how often that art mimics life. At one point, 20 or 30 turtles buzz under our kayaks. We glance up at the coastline, and see images of turtles, engraved on the rocks. It’s staggering to think this has probably been a known turtle hotspot for thousands of years.

Another day, I spot a Rothchild’s rock wallaby, effortlessly bouncing across the rocks, high up a hill. Hoping to take a closer look, I hike up a dry creek bed lined with spindly, white-trunked bloodwoods. I pass a dry waterhole, its surrounding walls adorned with hunters, stingrays, snakes, and a hammerhead shark. 

Zig-zagging uphill, I finally stand atop this boulder mountain, taking in the vast ocean, and our campsite far below. There are no wallabies to be found, except a one-metre-wide wallaby petroglyph, emblazoned on the rock.

Civilisation calls

On our fifth night, we all feel the weight of the return to civilisation. Phones start to buzz, and Neri points out the faint glow of Dampier on the horizon. 
“Look, the Aurora Industrialis,” she says.
On our final paddle, we’re returning to Withnell Bay, and I’m not relishing the idea of being back. On the positive side, I’m looking forward to a shower, and reflecting on how lucky I am to have been immersed in Murujuga, with its rugged beauty, its rich wildlife and its staggering art. 

I’m pinning my hopes on World Heritage listing delivering protection of this area for the next 50,000 years. This is something that all Australians, present and future generations, should know about. It’s our unique cultural heritage, a place worth cherishing.

The writer travelled as a guest of Exmouth Adventure Co. and Tourism Western Australia

The post Paddling with petroglyphs: Kayaking in Murujuga National Park, WA appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Adventures in Japan go beyond the snow. When locals want to escape the cold, they head to Okinawa. Japan’s southernmost prefecture is a tropical paradise and only a short three-hour flight from Tokyo.

The far-flung archipelago of 160 islands is perfect for adventurers eager for summertime thrills. Many descend on Okinawa Main Island for its golden sand beaches, unique outdoor activities in jungles and waterways, and thriving marine life. Its distinct cultural heritage of a bygone era and relaxed pace of life is also a drawcard for curious travellers. 

Discover why Okinawa is Japan’s favourite summertime getaway with these must-do experiences found nowhere else.

Adventurous eating in the “Blue Zone”

Okinawa is one of five Blue Zones in the world. In these fabled regions, many residents reach their 100th birthday. They achieve the milestone by leading a healthy, happy, and satisfied life, with the pathway to contentment seemingly simple for Okinawans. 

One key factor is nutrition. Okinawans mostly follow a plant-based diet, with the purple sweet potato their secret weapon. It’s usually served alongside other locally grown, brightly coloured fresh vegetables, appeasing both tastebuds and wellbeing. 

A great way to savour typical Okinawan cuisine is with a homestay at Yambaru Hotel Nammei Shinshitsu. The traditional home-cooked feast in the lodging is one of 20 customised experiences hosted by Okinawans following their ikigai. The purpose-driven concept is driven by a reason for being -doing something that brings joy and adds value to one’s life. This includes hobbies, friends and keeping active – another key to longevity. 

Okinawa cuisine. Image credit: Okinawa Media Library

Practice Karate kicks

There’s no better way to test your tenacity and vigour than with a Karate lesson. Okinawa is the birthplace of Karate, with the ancient martial art dating back to the Ryukyu Kingdom. It is a unique part of the prefecture’s culture, with over 400 training facilities called dojos offering seminars and multi-day programs to practice Karate throughout the island and taught by a grandmaster.

Karate in Okinawa. Image credit: Okinawa Media Library

Tour de Okinawa

One of the best ways to sightsee Okinawa is by pedal power. Never mind working up a sweat; enjoy a warm sea breeze on a scenic island-hopping adventure via bike or e-bike.

Start at the tip of the Kouri Bridge, stretching two kilometres. It connects Okinawa’s main island to Kouri Island, forming part of the 58km-long Motobu Peninsula cycling route along the north coast. Besides admiring blue seas, spot turtles, sea stacks, sugar cane plantations, forested mountains, and farm fields, with many vantage points to enjoy sweeping views along the way. 

If you are keen on a cycling challenge, test your stamina by participating in the annual Tour de Okinawa race. Japan’s premier cycling event journeys 346km around the prefecture in multiple race categories, including the renowned two-day international tournament. It also includes races for families and citizens to get in on the two-wheel action around the island.

Cycling on Kouri Island; Kouri Bridge, Okinawa. Image credits: Okinawa Media Library

Kayak through mangroves

Explore Okinawa’s inland waterways and complex ecosystems on a kayak. While mangroves are a rarity elsewhere in the country, they are abundant in Okinawa, with four varieties found.

Several tour operators offer guided tours along the Hija River. Soak up the island’s natural beauty as you paddle the emerald river fringed by thirsty greenery. Remember to look up: Okinawa has abundant bird life, and the mangroves are a haven for feathered visitors.

Kayaking through mangroves. Image credit: Okinawa Media Library

Roam castle ruins

Okinawa is more than just blissful beaches, healthy eating, and combative kicks; be wowed by the foundations of its past by visiting castle ruins. Before it became the Ryukyu Kingdom, power was sought over Okinawa’s main island by three nations: the north’s Hokuzan, centrally located Chuzan, and the south’s Nanzan. Remnants of each ruler are evident today, with five castles listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Go back to the 13th century, pre-Ryukyu period, wandering the ruins of Nakijin (Nakijin-jo) Castle. Located in the island’s northwest, it was once the second-largest castle. It became the residence of the Ryukyuan government when the kingdom was formed in 1429. 

 The castle is encircled by forests and makes for an enchanting day out delving into Okinawa’s past. Walk in the shadows of the castle’s 1.5km limestone wall remains and follow hiking trails around the fortress, hearing nature’s soundtrack filled with birdsong and cicada strums.

Nakijin-jo Castle ruins. Image credit: Okinawa Media Library

Go from nature to city views exploring Shuri (Shuri-jo) Castle. The former Ryukyu royal palace within Naha’s city district was built in the 14th century and is a perfect example of the kingdom’s distinct architectural style. The red-roofed landmark has been restored several times over its 700-year existence. While parts of the castle are currently under repairs following a fire in 2019, you can still admire its splendour within citadel walls and visit exhibits.

Sail the seas on a Sabani

Gain a new perspective of island life onboard a Sabani. Okinawan fishermen have sailed in these slender, hand-carved wooden boats for centuries, with Ogimi village boat carpenter and captain Teppei Hentona offering two-hour cruises in peaceful Shioya Bay. 

Some muscle flexing is required, manoeuvring the boat with an oar resembling an enormous cricket bat. Yet, once the Sabani’s sail is hoisted, relax and take in the beauty of the surrounding green hills. Now that’s living.

Teppei Hentona and a Sabani. Image credits: Julia D’Orazio

For more information, visit Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) Sydney Office: https://www.japan.travel/en/au/

This article is brought to you by the Japan Tourism Organization (JNTO) Sydney Office. Julia travelled to Okinawa as a guest of JNTO.

The post What makes Okinawa Japan’s tropical adventure paradise appeared first on Australian Geographic.

For more than 35 years Australian Geographic has been encouraging its audience to get outdoors, explore and connect with this wonderful country of ours and there are few more fun ways in which to do so than to jump on a bicycle and start pedalling. It is this ideal that led Australian Geographic to produce “Australia’s Best 100 Bike Rides”, a guidebook that details some of this country’s greatest bicycle rides, for all age groups and skill levels (available from all good book stores and online here). In this exclusive excerpt from the book, we reveal our three favourites from each state and territory.  

NEW SOUTH WALES

Perimeter-Long Trail

Distance: 21km Grade: Easy Bike: MTB/Gravel

This magical there-and-back-again ride is found at Terrey Hills, in Sydney’s Northern Beaches area. This ride combines two designated routes – Perimeter and Long trails, in Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park – to deposit riders at one of Sydney’s most beautiful viewpoints: Peach Trees Lookout. From this high-up natural wonder, there are expansive views across the Hawkesbury River to Cowan Creek and Berowra on the northern banks of the river. Reaching Peach Trees is a lovely ride along primarily firetrail (Perimeter Trail is signposted and there is ample parking on streets near its start point), through dense bush dotted with eucalypts, grass trees and loads of wildlife.

The Perimeter Trail comprises the first section and is a wide, undulating firetrail (keep an eye out for horse riders and walkers here) that loops north and west around the top end of Terrey Hills for a touch over 6km before you reach the Long Trail turn-off that takes you north. From here, the route is slightly rougher under your wheels and continues its undulating profile for just under 4km before you reach the lookout. You cannot ride up to the rock that offers the best views but can leave your bike just below and walk. The ride is ideal for families, and it is well worth taking a picnic and to spend some time admiring the view (and refuelling) before the return journey.

Central West Cycle Trail

Distance: 400km Grade: Intermediate Bike: Gravel/MTB

Through wheat-lands and woodlands, this new arrival on the cycling scene loops through NSW’s Central West region, following backroads on a tour that can be stretched across a week. Opened in 2020, the route puts towns in easy reach each night – Mudgee, Gulgong, Dunedoo, Mendooran, Ballimore, Dubbo, Wellington, Goolma – with the spaces between no longer than 60km. 

The ride is that rarest of things in Australia – a road route specifically targeted at cycle tourers. The loop ride is a mix of sealed and unsealed roads, and it provides a gentle introduction to touring – you’ll need to carry panniers or bikepacking bags, but you can get away without camping gear or much food on board.

To this, it adds wine country around Mudgee, pockets of gold-mining history, and beautiful rural country interspersed with forest and dotted with wildflowers. In a couple of places, there’s a choice of two routes – roads suitable to gravel bikes, or more challenging stretches for mountain bikes.

The CWC can be started anywhere around the loop, and cycled in either direction, but Mudgee makes a good starting point, pedalling out through its surrounding vineyards, which make a good excuse for a short day (30km) to Gulgong, a town rich in gold-rush history.

The classic country moments continue with the likes of the grand red-brick Hotel Dunedoo, the silo art in Dunedoo, and the hospitality that has farmhouses, such as Mayfield (near Birriwa), and even the post office in Wongarbon, preparing morning tea for cyclists who call ahead. There are also hatted restaurants and a whisky and rum distillery in Mendooran.

Narooma-Dalmeny Coast Ride

Narooma-Dalmeny Coast Ride

Distance: 21km return Grade: Easy Bike: Any

The NSW Far South Coast towns of Dalmeny and Narooma abut a coastline that is magnificent in its splendour, with golden beaches, inlets and, just off the coast, Barunguba (Montague Island). Thankfully, for two-wheeled visitors, there’s a brilliant bike path that links the two towns, allowing you to experience all these natural wonders up close. 

The ride heads north from Narooma with the start at Riverside Drive, near the wharf at Wagonga Inlet. From here you follow the path beside the blue-green waters of Wagonga Inlet, toward Narooma Highway Bridge. After crossing the bridge, you join the (timber) Mill Bay Boardwalk and wind around toward the inlet’s mouth (stop at where fisher-folk clean their catch and you may spot one of the resident seals). As well as seals, keep an eye out for other marine life, such as rays, and fish, and – if you’re riding here in whale season – there’s a high chance of spotting these migrating giants, too. Continuing, you ride past wetlands (great for birdwatching) and then any number of beaches. The ride is excellent when it comes to outlooks; several viewing platforms along Kianga headland offer views over some of the best beaches in NSW (there are also picnic spots along this route). The sealed path continues all the way to Dalmeny Sports Club, your start/turn-around point for this memorable family ride.

AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY

Lake Burley Griffin

Distance: 35km Grade: Easy Bike: Any

When Walter Burley Griffin designed a lake at the heart of Canberra, he could easily have had cyclists in mind. Its shores are flat, its 35km circumference makes for a perfect few hours of pedalling and almost every national public building of note sits huddled along its edges. The lake is entirely ringed by a shared-use path, which clings to the shores of the lake most of the way. The major deviations from its shores take you around Government House in Yarralumla, and through the Jerrabomberra Wetlands at the lake’s eastern end.

Doubling as a sightseeing tour of the national capital, the ride can be started anywhere along the lakeshore, and be cycled in either direction. Navigation is simplicity itself – simply keep to the mostly sealed path beside the water. Highlights include the Parliamentary Zone, where riders pass the National Gallery, the flag-festooned High Court, and the monolithic National Library, with Parliament House set on a low hill behind. The foreshore precinct in Kingston – where the path returns to the lake after arcing out through the wetlands – and the avant-garde New Acton district offer more distractions.

The ride is pretty much a choose-your-own adventure. You can lap the lake in a two-hour burst, or linger in the National Arboretum, National Museum, or any of dozens of other lakeside diversions to draw the ride out across a full day. If you’re an early riser, it’s a beautiful dawn ride, when the rowers are on the waters, the hot-air balloons are in the sky, and the day and the lake are likely as still as a meditation.

Stromlo Forest Park

Distance: 50km+ Grade: Easy to Advanced Bike: MTB

Welcome to MTB heaven. Stromlo Forest Park is just 15 minutes from downtown Canberra and has just about every type of riding for anyone who enjoys dirt under their knobbies. All-up there is said to be more than 50km worth of trails here, if you include the trials skill park, four-cross track, pump track and even a criterium circuit for road cyclists. There’s also a café, showers, toilets, plenty of parking in several different locations and even shuttle buses for those not keen on the climbing.

Sitting on the slopes of Mount Stromlo, the park was developed in the wake of devastating 2003 bushfires that destroyed the old informal riding network. The trails at Stromlo cater for cross-country and downhill riders and vary in difficulty from beginner to expert – or white to double black using the International Mountain Biking Association’s grading system.

The geography is rocky in places and the hill is quite exposed, which makes it a dusty and sweaty place to be in the heat of mid-summer Canberra. Best to ride early or late on those sorts of days. In winter it can get pretty darn cold but there’s not too much rain, so great MTB weather!  

On the comprehensive website you’ll find six downloadable maps of loops for riders having their first pedal, all the way to the gnarliest of hardened veterans. As a general guide, the closer to the café you are, the gentler the riding. Those with confidence and fitness can strike out for the northern trails in the farthest reaches of the park. They require skill and climbing legs but the rewards of trails like the rocky Pork Barrel and beautifully crafted Double Dissolution make it all worthwhile.

Canberra Centenary Trail

Don’t be fooled – this long weekend circumnavigation of our capital city is no pushover of cycle paths and coffee stops. Sure, those things crop up now and again, but you’ll also need some serious grunt to tackle the series of big hills that encircle Canberra. The city and surrounds are renowned as a mountain biker’s paradise for a reason! Officially starting and ending at Parliament House (but possible to join at any point), the trail heads north up to the NSW border, before cutting west through some flowy rural country and cruising the longest, sweetest downhill of them all to the cute village of Hall. From there it continues south past the MTB mecca of Stromlo and the end of Lake Burley Griffin, taking in the standout section along Red Rock Gorge and into Tuggeranong, where it swings north again and back into the city.

The riding is a mixture of urban tarmac, rustic grass/dirt, and mountain bike singletrack. Campsites are thin on the ground in Canberra, so take advantage of the proximity to civilisation and make a holiday of it by booking a few nice hotels (with showers!). The CCT doubles as a walker’s trail, so watch those tight corners, and allow plenty of time for picnics and sightseeing. Hell, if you stop at every attraction you pass, from the War Memorial to the Dinosaur Museum, you could be at it for weeks!

VICTORIA

East Gippsland Rail Trail

Distance: 97km Grade: Easy Bike: Gravel/MTB

Gippsland is the patriarch of rail trails in Australia, with almost a dozen of these converted railways zipping across the lush region. Prime among them is this ride between Bairnsdale and Orbost, following a century-old railway line through the forests and farmland that define this eastern end of Victoria. The railway remains a true presence along the ride, with a number of historic trestle bridges keeping the trail company.

From Howitt Park, on the bank of the Mitchell River at Bairnsdale’s edge, the trail (colloquially known as the Easy Gippy Rail Trail) sets out across the floodplain, running sealed to Nicholson (and unsealed for the rest of the trail beyond), with occasional views south to the Gippsland Lakes. Leaving Nicholson across the old railway bridge over the Nicholson River, the ride takes a sudden turn north, heading into Bruthen. Thirty kilometres from Bairnsdale, Bruthen makes the perfect lunch stop.

Another railway bridge leads over the Tambo River, where the trail begins climbing towards its highest point (129m above sea level) at Colquhoun. Just before reaching the apex, there’s a junction with the Gippsland Lakes Discovery Trail, a secondary rail trail that detours 25km south into Lakes Entrance – if you want to add the lakes to the Gippsland cycling experience, head away here.

The descent from Colquhoun bottoms out at Stony Creek, beside the trail’s signature feature – the 276m-long, 19m-high Stony Creek Trestle Bridge. With its 27 spans, it’s the longest bridge of its type to be found in Victoria. There are more trestle bridges ahead, including the curved O’Grady’s Bridge at Wairewa (which was badly burned in bushfires in 2020).

Main Yarra Trail

Distance: 22km Grade: Easy Bike: Any

Here’s proof you don’t need to pack your bike up and travel hours into the countryside to get in some off-road riding. Melbourne’s Main Yarra Trail starts – or finishes depending on your perspective – at Southbank in the CBD and meanders alongside the river it is named after, through the Victorian capital’s north-eastern suburbs.

The other end of the trail is widely judged to be Westerfolds Park in Eltham, partially because it is a logical place to park a car. But it is possible to ride further east toward Warrandyte. The surface can vary from gravel singletrack to concrete walkway and the level of traffic on foot and two wheels can reflect the fact it navigates through the heart of one of our greatest cities.

Despite its urban location it is certainly possible to feel you’re far from the maddening crowd on the Yarra Trail. On an isolated section I once disturbed a large snake that then surfed away over the surrounding bushes to escape me – not that I wanted to chase it! There is another section where you meander through trees on singletrack immediately below the Eastern Freeway. For all that, the good news is being so close to civilisation means coffee and a feed is never far away!

The Cruffin Run

Distance: 53km Grade: Intermediate Bike: Gravel

In the same way that gravel bikes combine road and mountain bikes, cruffins are the result of merging croissants, donuts, and muffins. The outcome is the delectable, jam- or curd-filled sugary pastry that you’ve been missing from the start, middle or end of every bike ride you’ve ever done, except this one.

Start in the village of Moyhu in the King Valley, just 20km from Wangaratta in Victoria’s High Country. There’s a gravel loop trailhead here, plus toilets, a cafe, and a pub. After your pre-ride coffee (naturally), head east on a quiet sealed road for 5km before turning north. The transition to shady, gumtree-lined backroads and farm lanes is almost instant, and the flat gradient means you’ll spend far more time looking at the beauty around you than focusing on which gear you’re in.

It’d be rude to ride past the famous Brown Brothers cellar door at 22km without stopping in, so once you’ve scratched that itch, press on for another couple of kilometres through the Milawa township. Assuming you’re there early enough for there to be any remaining, your cruffins are waiting for you at The Milawa Kitchen, next to the Milawa Cheese Company.

There’s enough on offer here for you to spend a good hour or two taking it all in. In fact, a set of panniers or a backpack might come in handy, particularly as on the return journey to Moyhu you’ll pass a mustards shop, a smokehouse, two providores, another bakery, more cellar doors, and a gin distillery. Luckily the return 25km to Moyhu is just as flat and scenic as the first half of the ride, so you probably won’t even notice the extra kilograms you’ll be carrying back to the car…

TASMANIA

Clarence Foreshore Trail

Distance: 14.5km Grade: Easy Bike: Any

This trail follows Hobart’s picturesque Derwent River, kicking off at Geilston Bay and finishing at Howrah. Consisting of mostly flat footpaths, with the odd gravel section, a few roadside connections and a couple of hills, the trail is accessible for all abilities and skill levels, with plenty of entry and exit points. A highlight for families? Playgrounds galore for those inevitable refuel and rest stops. For those riders with little legs, a shorter version sees you set off from Geilston Bay and finish at Bellerive Park, with its playground and – yes! – the chance to indulge in fish and chips by the beach.

The ride encompasses magical views, from yachts bobbing on their moorings, to willow trees dangling over the trail. Passing under Hobart’s famous Tasman Bridge is a highlight, especially for the youngest cyclists, with the chance to test the echoes bouncing off the huge concrete pylons.

At Kangaroo Bay, about 9km from the start, you may time it right for local market stalls. The beach here is beautiful, plus those aforementioned fish and chips are available nearby.  The final leg around a headland leads Bellerive Beach and then on to Howrah Beach.

Blue Derby

Distance: 125km+ Grade: Easy to Advanced Bike: MTB

Since launching its network of mountain bike trails in 2015, the once-forlorn tin-mining town of Derby has become a byword for mountain biking. Its network of trails, which now extends to around 125km, instantly generated such fanfare and attention that it almost single-handedly inspired the burst of trail openings across Australia in the subsequent years.

The key to Derby’s appeal is the flowing nature of its trails, which begin high in the Blue Tier mountains, with a compact cluster of trails around Derby itself. A large pump track on the bank of the Ringarooma River keeps crowds of kids happy, while the riding can begin as leisurely as a lap around Lake Derby, across the river from town.

Signature trails include Blue Tier, which hurries down rainforest-covered slopes of its namesake mountain range to Welborough; and Atlas, which continues the journey from near Weldborough down into Derby. Shuttle services out of Derby make it possible to ride both in a full, 30km day, descending from sub-alpine clearings at the top of the Blue Tier through magnificent rainforest to the dry sclerophyll forests around Derby.

Shuttles also head to the Black Stump, dropping riders off at fun descents such as Flickity Sticks, Return to Sender, Kingswall and Kumma-Gutza. Shuttles aren’t always necessary, with the gentle Axehead looping out from town to connect with a host of other trails. Favourite trails at the black end of things include Detonate, where bike handlebars all but scrape between boulders; and the steep and technical Trouty, which compensates with fine views… if you can find an opportunity to look up.

Montezuma Falls

Distance: 11km return Grade: Easy Bike: Gravel/MTB

It’s a blessing to cyclists that a mining tramway once punched its way through the damp rainforest of Tasmania’s west coast to the base of the state’s highest waterfall. The North East Dundas Tramway was once used to transport ore to smelters in Zeehan, but is now shared by mountain bikers and walkers wanting to view 104m-high Montezuma Falls.

There are two cycling approaches into the falls. The longer and more difficult ride is a 14km (one way) route from Melba Flats, but the simpler approach (described here) is along the old tramway beside the Ring River. Rainforest is the one constant of this often-muddy ride, which sets out from Williamsford and dips to cross Baker Creek before joining the course of the tramway. The greatest relic of the tramway days is an original wooden bridge immediately beside the trail’s newer bridge almost 2km into the ride. Further ahead, there’s a section of old tramway sleepers ribbed across the track – a bumpy ride guaranteed – and an old mining shaft that disappears into cliffs just before you reach the falls.

The track ends a few metres before the waterfall, which was named after Montezuma Silver Mining Company and spills down the cliffs in a narrow stream. You can wander to its base and out onto a heady swing bridge with fine views onto the waterfall. The bridge is also the start of the trail to Melba Flats if you want to ride a linear through-route – it’s a 19km ride in total but requires a vehicle shuttle from Melba Falls back to Williamsford.

NORTHERN TERRITORY

Uluru Circuit

Distance: 10.6km Grade: Easy Bike: Any

This full loop of the world’s most famous monolith is a must-do for any visitors to the Northern Territory’s Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. It is a very easy, very flat ride that you could, if you were, for some odd reason, in a rush, complete in less than an hour, but please don’t. ‘The Rock’ as Uluru is also known, hides some incredibly scenic and spiritual secrets that you must experience for yourself.

The ‘official’ loop starts from the Mala car park, but if you’re hiring a bike (Outback Cycling offers hires), you will start from 2km west, at the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre car park and take the bike path to Mala. From here, it is an anti-clockwise journey on predominantly hard dirt, with a little bit of sand to negotiate from Mala to Mutitjulu waterhole. This part of the loop brings you close to Uluru itself before a must-stop at Mutitjulu waterhole where you can park your bike at the bike rack and take the short walk into the gorge itself. 

The track then continues around Uluru, moving further away from the rock, before you ride parallel to its more heavily eroded northern face. After that, though, you’re back closer and ready for more exploration at Kantju Gorge and its pretty waterhole. From there, the loop continues to curve around and, before you know it, you’re back at Mala and ride’s end, but far richer for the memories of experiencing this ageless icon up close.  

Nitmiluk

Distance: 19km Grade: Easy to Intermediate Bike: MTB

Nitmiluk National Park has always been a highlight for visitors to the Northern Territory, with its spectacular gorge system previously only able to be admired from the water or on foot. With thirteen gorges to visit, most visitors never get past the first couple, but with the introduction of mountain bikes into the national park, it is now possible to ride to some stunning locations. 

The climate here dictates the ride. The green Jalkwarak loop is under 6km and is a wise warm-up. Being close to the road and the ranger station, you can ensure that everything is in order before you push deeper into the park. The network is around 19km and is mainly shared use, although being up on the plateau you won’t see many other users on the network. The newly built MTB-specific sections of trail – Jalkwarak (Easy Grade) and Jatete (Intermediate) – are fantastic with Jatete offering brilliant views over the pristine Katherine River. The more adventurous can push further east on shared-use trails to Pat’s Lookout or descend Bamjon for a cooling dip. 

If you want a ride and swim, the nearby town of Katherine has a town loop and lovely natural spa that’s easy to get to. Just remember crocodiles live at Nitmiluk. The harmless freshwater crocs are year-round inhabitants but the deadly salties slip in during the wet season, so only get in the water after the all-clear has been given by the park rangers. Crocodiles, stunning views, and remote trails, you won’t forget this day’s bike ride!

Simpsons Gap Bike Path

Distance: 17km Grade: Easy Bike: Hybrid/Gravel/MTB

Running umbilically between Alice Springs and Simpsons Gap, the nearest of the West MacDonnell Ranges’ multitude of narrow gorges to the city, this fully sealed bike path is a desert delight. Beginning beside the boulder-topped grave of John Flynn, founder of the Royal Flying Doctor Service, the path rolls gently through the Alice Valley, pinched between the rust-red mountains of the West MacDonnells and the Heavitree Range. 

For all but the first kilometre, the ride is inside Tjorita/West MacDonnell National Park, winding between low hills but making few climbs of its own. The open landscape is brightened by ghost gums, desert bloodwoods and the lavender-like flowers of the mulla mulla. There are two picnic tables (with bike racks) tucked into the shade of ghost gums along the path, and a 1.8km walking trail to Cassia Hill (named for cassia shrubs that cover it) that starts from the path’s edge as it makes its final turn towards Simpsons Gap.

The last 700m of the ride is on a roadside bike lane (where it also crosses the Larapinta Trail), ending in the Simpsons Gap car park, from where it’s a 400m stroll along the sandy creek bed to the Gap. This break in the mountains creates a spectacular scene – in full sun, the orange cliffs seem to glow like coals above the permanent pool (swimming is banned) inside the gorge. Black-footed rock wallabies are commonly seen among the rocks that litter the slopes outside its mouth. With average summer temperatures reaching 36°C, this is a path best pedalled in the cooler winter months.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Rottnest Island

Distance: 4-22km Grade: Easy Bike: Any

Picture an island in the Indian Ocean fringed with 63 beaches, where the only motorised traffic is a bus, and an island-based rental company has almost 2000 bikes in its fleet. Welcome to the cycling beauty of Rottnest Island. Perth’s favourite holiday island is one of the country’s most bike-friendly destinations. Sealed roads run to its myriad beaches, and climbs of any note are rare, with the island barely peeping above the sea – its highest point is just 46m above sea level. Three cycling routes are promoted on the island, from a 4km Rotto Mini Loop to a 22km Island Ride that runs the length and width of the island.

All routes begin in The Settlement, where ferries from Perth and Fremantle dock. The Island Ride’s end goal is Cape Vlamingh, at Rottnest’s western tip, home to a colony of New Zealand fur seals as well as a boardwalk with clifftop views. This ride skirts Rottnest’s south and north coasts, which have their own distinctive characters. The north coast is more developed, with beaches such as Pinky Beach and Geordie Bay backed by tourist apartments and campgrounds. The south coast feels more remote, but each beach has its own individual attraction – there are remnants of a shipwreck at Henrietta Rocks, and a popular snorkelling trail at Little Salmon Bay.

Almost every beach has bike racks, making it possible to while away an entire day on the Island Ride, but other than a coffee van at Cape Vlamingh and a general store at Geordie Bay, there are no dining or drinking options outside of The Settlement, so plan ahead if setting out for the day.

Munda Biddi Trail

Distance: 1060km Grade: Advanced Bike: MTB/Gravel

Taking its cues and the general course of its route from the hikers’ Bibbulmun Track, the off-road Munda Biddi Trail is one of Australia’s great cycling journeys. Beginning in Mundaring in the Perth Hills, it finishes in faraway Albany, on Western Australia’s south coast. Along the way, it ventures through the spectacular forests – an enchanted land of karri, tingle, marri and jarrah trees – and along the state’s southern shores.

Running parallel to the Bibbulmun, the Munda Biddi (a name meaning ‘path through the forest’ in the local Noongar language) was purpose-designed for mountain biking and is thus one of the best equipped long-distance trails in the country. Though towns are up to 100km apart – about a two-day ride for most cyclists in this terrain – campsites have been spaced a day’s ride apart along the length of the trail (the longest gap is about 77km). Most of the campsites are exclusive to the trail, and feature covered sleeping shelters (accommodating up to 25 people), tent sites, rainwater tanks, picnic tables and bike storage shelters.

If you set out to average 50km a day – a reasonable ask in this terrain – it’s about a three-week ride to ride end to end, though the regular presence of towns makes it possible to ride single sections or complete the trail across a series of rides.

Enticing shorter sections include the forest delights from Manjimup to Pemberton (83km), and similar green goodness from Pemberton to Walpole (175km), or the coastal home stretch from Walpole to Albany (224km), which passes through the Valley of the Giants (with its treetop walk) and the town of Denmark.

Gibb River Road

Distance: 660km Grade: Advanced Bike: Gravel/MTB

The Gibb River Road is one of Australia’s most iconic outback routes. Stretching 660 kilometres from Kununurra on the WA/NT border to Derby in far north Western Australia, it transects the heart of the one of the country’s most rugged and remote regions: the Kimberley.

With its plunging waterholes, deep gorges and palm-fringed oases, and its dusty plains, sandstone ranges and bare knuckles of glowing rock, the Gibb has long been a magnet for four-wheel drivers seeking adventure. There are no towns along the road – just a sprinkling of huge cattle stations (most with supplies/water) and remote Aboriginal communities. 

But it’s no longer as rough as it once was; the road has been upgraded dramatically over recent years and in the middle of the dry season (May-October) it’s even occasionally negotiated in a 2WD. However, despite much of the road being in reasonable condition, it remains primarily unsealed, and is still famed for its rocks, bulldust and, most significantly, bone-rattling corrugations. (Run tubeless tyres to minimise the chance of punctures.)

Cycle tourers have similarly been attracted to the Gibb River Road. Many do it on mountain bikes; others on touring or gravel bikes. Two weeks is a commonly suggested duration for the trip. It can be done more quickly, however, and a week is possible if you’re strong. Make sure you travel in the right direction, though. Winds in the dry season (May to September; the only time possible to ride the GRR) are overwhelmingly easterlies; go from Kununurra to Derby, with consistent tailwinds at your back, and it feels like you’re cruising a constant 2 per cent downhill grade.

QUEENSLAND

Brisbane Valley Rail Trail

Distance: 161km Grade: Intermediate Bike: Gravel/MTB

Australia’s longest rail trail begins its journey in rural Yarraman and finishes in Wulkuraka, at the suburban edge of Ipswich, less than an hour’s drive from Brisbane’s city centre. Traffic-free along its length, the trail descends through the Brisbane Valley as the river flows towards Brisbane, though the views are so faithfully rural that the presence of a city feels like a myth.

From Yarraman, the trail sets out through bush and cattle country, beginning its biggest descent (the trail drops approximately 350m between Yarraman and Wulkuraka) in Benarkin. This descent ends 18km later in Linville, a likely stopping point for the first night. The Brisbane River is first sighted beyond Linville, and not seen again until Lowood, around 85km later, leaving farmland and dry bush to dominate the views throughout. The old railway’s greatest legacy, beside the gentle gradients, is the Yimbun Tunnel, which bores through the hills for 100m just beyond Harlin.

The unsealed trail is lined with old railway trestle bridges that once spanned the many deep gullies that furrow the land, though the ride typically drops into the gullies, creating a series of short, steep descents and climbs that have many cyclists dismounting to push their bikes. The ride is lined with small towns – Blackbutt, Linville, Moore, Harlin, Toogoolawah, Esk, Coominya, Lowood, Fernvale – making it easy to structure days and to find food, rest stops and accommodation along the way. The greatest distance between towns is 24km. A private shuttle service, run by Out There Cycling, operates along the length of the trail.

Atherton Forest Mountain Bike Park

Distance: 54.4km Grade: Easy to Advanced Bike: MTB

Atherton is about an hour inalnd from the Tropical North Queensland ‘capital’ of Cairns, on the tablelands at a lofty 800 metres above sea level. Atherton is less busy (and a lot smaller) than Cairns, but with one big cycling-based asset: this town of 7000 is home to one of Australia’s most sensational trail networks – the Atherton Mountain Bike Park.

Atherton meets all the ‘successful mountain bike town’ criteria: a great climate, awesome terrain, and the chance to ride to the trail network directly from town. Indeed, the trailhead (with change rooms and bike-wash facilities) is right on the main street, with the link trail out to the network, for easy trail access/return. The 54.4km trail network sprawls over Baldy Mountain Forest Reserve and Herberton Range State Forest. Most of the riding is ‘flow’ trail, best suited to cross-country or trail bikes. There’s nothing too technical, although the ease with which you garner speed should be enough to keep you focused. 

You will find the easier trails in the lowlands, while the intermediate trails cloverleaf off, taking you out into the hills. It’s a smart layout that’s ideal for groups of mixed abilities; in short, everyone has an awesome time riding, regardless of mismatched skill levels. The official trail maps are numbered; highlights include the bobsled descent of Trail 9 and the epic Trail 12, which loops off onto a life-changing descent and a scenic, gradual climb that takes you to the park’s highest point. For shorter loops, climb up to The Roundabout, and link up Trails 6 and 7.

Glass House Mountains Loop

Distance: 61km Grade: Intermediate Bike: Gravel/Hybrid

The craggy peaks of the Glass House Mountains are the slalom posts on this loop ride, which combines a rail trail with roads that thread between the striking volcanic mountains. It begins in Caboolture on the Caboolture-Wamuran Rail Trail, a 10.5km sealed path into Wamuran. After a quick pedal (4km) along the D’Aguilar Highway, the ride turns away again, onto the unsealed Wamuran Forest trail, which continues to follow a disused rail corridor through the Beerburrum West State Forest. Approaching the town of D’Aguilar, the ride swings north, beginning the approach to the Glass House Mountains.

Weaving through more state forest, the ride takes to Beerburrum-Woodford Rd, finally arriving at the mountains on Old Gympie Rd, which is laid out like a grey carpet between the peaks. Through breaks in the forest along this sealed road, Mt Tibrogargan rises to the east, with Mt Coonowrin and Mt Ngungun beckoning you on ahead. It’s worth making the 1.5km detour to the Glass House Mountains Lookout Cafe, with its caffeinated view of Coonowrin. The Glass House Mountains Lookout is another 1km beyond if you really fancy another view – and another 70m of climbing.

Turning towards the town of Glass House Mountains on Coonowrin Rd, there’s a roadside bike path, squeezing between Tibrogargan and Ngungun, with the chance to double back to Ngungun, where a 2.8km return walking trail ascends to the summit for one of the area’s signature views. Joining busier roads in the Glass House Mountains township itself, it’s a single-minded 20km return to Caboolture, passing through the town of Beerburrum.

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Mawson Trail

Distance: 900km Grade: Advanced Bike: MTB/Gravel

Stretching from Adelaide’s outskirts to Blinman, this mighty off-road ride is as challenging as it is scenic, traversing the Adelaide Hills, cutting through the wine regions of the Barossa and Clare valleys, and rolling towards its finish beside the outback peaks of the Flinders Ranges. It begins at the foot of the Adelaide Hills, setting off immediately into perhaps its most difficult climb to Lobethal – there are pinches above 20 per cent gradient to test your early resolve.

Beyond Mt Crawford, the trail dips into the Barossa Valley, passing through a world of cellar doors as it wriggles through Tanunda and Nuriootpa to Kapunda. In Auburn, 65km beyond Kapunda, it momentarily takes things easy as it joins the sealed Riesling Trail to Clare (another day, another wine region), before beginning a wildly circuitous path across the Mid North – between Burra and Spalding, the trail covers around 130km, though the towns are just 40km apart by road.

From Laura, the trail rolls along beside the mountains, passing beneath Mt Remarkable (the Southern Flinders Ranges’ highest peak) and making its way towards the desert country – and the associated sandy and corrugated tracks – of the Flinders Ranges. The final 300km are the Mawson Trail’s coup de grace, following the red line of the Flinders Ranges past Wilpena Pound and up to the pub door in Blinman.

Towns appear regularly, though there are gaps of more than 100km, making detailed planning prudent, especially around access to water and accommodation. Avoid riding this trail through the baking summer, while the winter mud can be thick and impassable – I once snapped two rear derailleurs in a day in the Mawson’s gelatinous mud.

Melrose

Distance: 230m-6.6km Grade: Easy to Advanced Bike: MTB

Scratched into the slopes of Mt Remarkable, the tallest peak in the southern Flinders Ranges, the Melrose trail network covers around 100km, split into three sections: Melrose Town Trails, Bartagunyah and Willowie Forest. The Melrose Town Trails form the heart of the network. Leaving from the very centre of town, they set off in all directions across and up the slopes of the mountain. The signature trails are arguably Weaving Camels and Dodging Bullets. The former is a 1km blue (intermediate) trail that rolls along the banks of Willochra Creek, set beautifully among large river red gums and functioning as an access trail to the southern end of the network. Here, the blue Big Rhua and a selection of black trails coil up the slopes to Wilburs Watch, a ridge-top building with extensive views over Melrose and the flat earth well beyond.

Dodging Bullets is a playful Black run that dips through a concrete pipe and, near its end, cuts through the middle of a tumbledown farmhouse – how many chances will you ever get to ride through a house? The Town Trails are, by nature, exposed, with trails hanging over steep drops. The giddying sense of exposure, more than any technical trickery, means many trails are graded higher than they might be on less precipitous terrain.

Willowie Forest, 8km north of town, has good offerings for novice riders, especially on the flowing Twisted Sisters. Bartagunyah, on a private property 5km south of town, is a more unmaintained, rough-and-ready collection of trails.

Encounter Bikeway

Distance: 31km Grade: Easy Bike: Any

Showing off one of South Australia’s favourite holiday coasts, this seaside cycle stretches along the southern edge of the Fleurieu Peninsula, taking in the likes of Victor Harbor, Port Elliot and Middleton Beach as it journeys from The Bluff to Goolwa. From a car park on the slopes of The Bluff (it’s worth walking to the top of the 97m-high headland for a view over Encounter Bay and much of the ride ahead), the bikeway drops to the shores of Encounter Bay, following a foreshore path into Victor Harbor.

As Victor’s causeway stretches across the water to Granite Island, the ride turns with the coast, continuing to run pinched between the sand and the town. Crossing under a railway bridge and over the Hindmarsh River, the ride becomes a combination of bike paths and streets, but it always stays close to the coast – if you’re riding between May and September, keep a watch on the sea, especially along Boomer and Basham beaches, where southern right whales are regularly sighted.

The ride stays with the coast to Middleton, where it cuts briefly inland to Goolwa, the town sitting on the final bend in the Murray River’s long journey – the river mouth is just 10km away from here. The bikeway heads upstream from Goolwa, finishing abruptly and anticlimactically at Laffin Point. A more fitting finish is at the Goolwa Wharf (3.5km before Laffin Point), beside the Hindmarsh Island Bridge. It’s home to a distillery, eateries and a cellar door/craft brewer. Time the ride right and you (and your bike) can return to Victor Harbor on the Cockle Train, riding Australia’s oldest steel-railed railway.

Want more awesome bike rides? Grab yourself a copy of Australia’s Best 100 Bike Rides here.

The post On ya bike! The top 3 bike rides in each state and territory appeared first on Australian Geographic.

For wildlife spotters, the Northwest Territories is chock-full of amazing experiences. Seeing the huge reindeer herds of Inuvik, the muskox at Thaidene Nëné National Park Reserve, grizzly bears, wolves and caribou in a number of national parks, plus the famous wood bison, are all top-tier viewing experiences for wildlife aficionados – and they’re all found here in the NWT. Photo: Adam Pisani/NWTT

Remote river heaven

Naats’ihch’oh National Park Reserve contains another paddling epic, the Broken Skull River, a remote tributary of the Nahanni River that begins higher up in the alpine area of the Mackenzie Mountains. This river is ideally suited to intermediate paddlers, while offering a similar experience to the Nahanni, with  plenty of wildlife spotting, rapids-running (Grade II and III) hiking, and sublime riverside campsites each day.

Land of the ancestors

Thaidene Nëné (“Land of the ancestors”) National Park Reserve is Canada’s newest national park and covers 27,000km² of the East Arm of Great Slave Lake. Here, adventure is endless, with paddling, hiking, ice-fishing and snowshoeing, cultural experiences and fishing all available, thanks to the beautiful wildlife lodges, including that are found in this area. Yep, it’s definitely an outdoor heaven-on-earth.

The North’s workhorse

The vast expanse of the Northwest Territories, and the often rugged terrain, means bush-planes, either equipped with skis for landing on frozen lakes in winter, or floats for summer, are the go-to for supplying remote communities. They are also the best way to transport travellers to lakes, rivers and national parks for the start of their adventures. You can also jump on board for scenic flights, too, with these being a very popular way to see and understand the sheer size of the territory and some of its most famous natural wonders, such as a flight from Fort Simpson out to Virginia Falls and the Cirque of the Unclimbables, in Nahanni National Park Reserve.

The mighty Nahanni

Acclaimed around the world as “the greatest wilderness river on earth”, the South Nahanni River, winding through the Nahanni National Park Reserve, is (along with the national park, itself) not only one of the NWT’s natural wonders, but also one of its adventure jewels. It’s not hard to agree with that claim, either. When you can spend between seven and 21 days on this waterway, in a raft or a canoe, passing majestic rock formations (such as The Gate, pictured here), floating between 1000-metre tall cliffs, enjoying hikes to mountain-top viewpoints, spotting grizzly bears, wolves, bald eagles and more, you know it’s pretty darn special. Add in the majestic Virginia Falls which, at 90 metres tall, is twice as high as Niagara, and you can understand why this iconic wild waterway is on every active traveller’s bucket-list…

Unexpected delights

The Rabbitkettle tufa mound, in Nahanni National Park Reserve, is Canada’s largest. These mounds are created through the hardening through precipitation of dissolved minerals from thermal spring water (there are hot springs here as well), forming these natural terraces (some up to 30m high). They can be visited on a scenic flight tour into the national park. Colin Field/NWTT

Strength in culture

Experiencing the thriving Dene culture in NWT is an absolute must for visitors to fully appreciate the province, its land and people. From stories from long ago, to festivals and cultural-focused tours, visitors to the NWT have plenty of choices when it comes to cultural education – and having fun while doing it!

Great Canadian Trails presents: Canada’s Subarctic Aurora Borealis and National Parks

Guided walking, off-the grid cultural experiences and sightseeing out of the Northwest Territories’ world-renowned aurora-viewing capital.
Experience the spectacular sights of one of Canada’s most pristine and wild provinces with Great Canadian Trails. Amidst the mesmerising colours of the Northern Lights and the untamed wilds, this journey will take you through spectacular Thaidene Nëné, Wood Buffalo and Nahanni national parks. An impressive array of flora and fauna exists throughout this province, known for its nature photography and wildlife viewing. Bald eagle and bison, loon and muskox, bear, moose and wolf all make the province’s remote northern tundra regions their homes. Its location directly beneath the Earth’s “Auroral oval,” ensures many successive nights throughout the autumn and winter to marvel at the aurora’s intense and flickering dance. Your tour is timed to provide ample viewing opportunities of this natural wonder. A thrilling bush plane flight amidst breathtaking canyons will lead you to Nahanni NP’s awe-inspiring Virginia Falls.
Date: September 2022
Length: 17 days / 16 nights (hotels, B&Bs and private cabins), September 2022.
More info and bookings: www.greatcanadiantrails.com/private/KUVGKV

FACT FILE

Getting there: The NWT is reached via daily direct flights from Vancouver, Calgary and Edmonton. There are direct flights from Australia’s eastern seaboard to Vancouver.

Accommodation: Yellowknife has a range of quality hotels and other accommodation types. For those looking for hotel accommodation, both The Explorer Hotel and Chateau Nova Yellowknife are excellent.
To book any of the remote lodges mentioned or a Yellowknife hotel and aurora experience, contact your preferred Australian tour operator or travel agent specialising in Canada.

More info: NWT Tourism has an excellent website that is packed with info on traveling in the territory and how to experience it across all seasons. See www.spectacularnwt.com

The post The Northwest Territories: Head to Canada’s Far North for your next adventure appeared first on Australian Geographic.

In Western Australia you can savour the flavours of the Margaret River Region and wander through world-class vineyards cooled by ocean breezes. Or dive into an enchanting marine wonderland of colour and coral on the world’s largest fringing reef. Take time to breathe in the magic of the Kimberley where ancient stories meld with contrasting colours and textures. Feel the freedom of secluded sandy beaches or float in tranquil swimming holes. Hit the road less travelled and meet friendly locals eager to share their stories, bringing the landscape to life.

Though there are a million dreamlike reasons to experience Western Australia’s natural wonders, its ancient stories and tantalising cuisine, we’ve limited ourselves to eight. For now though, we’re pretty sure you’ll find it hard to stop at eight too.

1. See the wild dolphins of Monkey Mia and view UNESCO World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef

For more than 50 years, wild bottlenose dolphins have been coming into the shallow waters of Monkey Mia. A daily feeding program is managed by the Parks and Wildlife Service, offering a unique opportunity to see these wondrous creatures in the wild. Take a wildlife cruise in Shark Bay World Heritage Area (Gathaagudu / Gutharraguda) on a purpose-built boat equipped with underwater observation windows, viewing vantage points and a boom net for those keen on ocean immersion.

To the north of Monkey Mia lies Ningaloo Reef (Nyinggulu), given UNESCO World Heritage status in 2011 for its diversity of marine life, striking cave fauna and the spectacular contrast between colourful underwater seascapes and the rugged landscape of Cape Range National Park.

Aerial view of the Ningaloo Reef coastline near the North Mandu campground; Aerial view of Monkey Mia, including the RAC Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort. Image credits: Tourism Western Australia

2. Admire the contrasts of Karijini National Park

Karijini National Park in the Pilbara region is part of the Hamersley Range and is Western Australia’s second- largest national park, covering a staggering 6274sq.km. Walking trails wind through the park, offering chances to see the park’s plentiful flora and fauna up close. Look for red kangaroos and rock wallabies. Echidnas and dingoes too. Waterholes and streams lure birdlife including the endemic spinifex pigeon with its prominent head crest.

Over 500 flora species have been documented, some of them extremely rare, across ecosystems which vary from semi-arid to tropical. Between June and September each year grass plains and fields burst into colour as the Pilbara wildflowers bloom. Look for purple mulla mulla, scarlet red Sturt’s desert pea and Wickham’s grevillea, the pink, purple and blue of Ashburton peas and the sunshine-yellow of Karijini wattles.

Natural spa pool located at Hamersley Gorge, Karijini National Park; Joffre Gorge, Karijini National Park. Image credits: Tourism Western Australia

3. Soak in natural thermal springs and hike to Emma Gorge

Geothermal hot springs are the reward for a short walk through a pre-historic forest of livistona and pandanus palms at El Questro. Zebedee Springs is a series of year-round thermal pools and small waterfalls surrounded by a towering, lush rainforest. Feeling energised after your soak? Emma Gorge too rewards hikers with a waterhole fed by a towering droplet waterfall cascading down a 65-metre-tall sheer cliff.

Emma Gorge, El Questro Wilderness Park. Image credit: Tourism Western Australia

4. Watch the sunset over the Bungle Bungle Range

Dotted across 450sq. km, the mammoth domes of the Bungle Bungle Range are the red-carpet poster child for Purnululu National Park. The range commands the attention of nature lovers and photographers from across the globe. Deservedly so. Beehive-shaped massifs rise from river beds and valley floors eroded over 20 million years to construct an awe-inspiring majestic landscape.

The Bungle Bungle Range, Purnululu National Park; Cathedral Gorge, Purnululu National Park. Image credits: Tourism Western Australia

Burbling creeks wind through gorges in the aptly- named natural amphitheatre of Cathedral Gorge, a vast cavern with acoustics to rival the best man-made opera houses. Walking trails follow the natural courses of streams such as Piccaninny Creek. Overhead, the famed orange and black horizontal ‘stripes’, or bands, of the Bungle Bungle domes cast an ochre hue across the landscape.

5. Swim in crystal clear waterholes shaded by paperbark trees

Deep in the heart of the Kimberley, gorges carve a swathe through the landscape, waterholes are filled with fresh water as clear as air and paperbark trees cast a shadow across rocky shorelines. Listen for the call of abundant birdlife lured to Manning Creek while you swim in the cooling water. Hike to another waterhole at Galvans Gorge where the pristine waters of the swimming hole lies beneath boab trees clinging to the sandstone escarpment above. Nearby, the mighty Durack River scribes a twisting route through Emma Gorge and the 2800-odd sprawling square kilometres of El Questro wilderness.

Tunnel Creek National Park (Dimalurru). Image credit: Tourism Western Australia

6. Admire the striking limestone karst of the Pinnacles

A short distance from the sparkling Indian Ocean which lines the Western Australian coast, striking limestone pillars rise from ever-shifting desert sands like golden-hued monoliths. Midway between Perth (Boorloo) and Geraldton (Jambinu), the Pinnacles of Nambung National Park are formed by wind erosion and water corrosion. In this dramatic landscape which resembles a petrified paleolithic garden, some formations stand several metres tall and wide. Speckled with shells, fossils and algal structures, these dense fields of spires are particularly attractive when the sun is low on the horizon and casts elongated shadows across amber sands.

The Pinnacles in Nambung National Park at sunset. Image caption: Tourism Western Australia

7. Admire ancient Aboriginal rock art of the Kimberley

The ancient rock art of the Kimberley, known as Gwion Gwion, were created by ancestors of the Balanggarra people. In 2020, Archaeologists with the Australian Research Council dated Gwion Gwion art to be between 12,000 and 17,000 years old. Wandjina paintings with their typically halo-like headpieces and mouthless faces are mere youngsters at around 4,000 years old.

Some of these galleries are best seen from off the coast, including sites such as Bigge Island where a network of caves are adorned with art created by the Wunambal people, including first contact pieces. See stunning Gwion Gwion and Wandjina art at sites amongst the maze of islands, inlets and peninsula of Swift Bay where art adorned rock overhangs.

Wandjina Aboriginal rock art, near Raft Point; Windjana Gorge, Windjana Gorge National Park. Image credits: Tourism Western Australia

8. Taste the Margaret River Region’s world- famous wines

At the opposite end of the state, the coastal Margaret River Region is all about vines and wines with over 200 vineyards under production. The region’s maritime-influenced climate, soils and geographical landscape conspire alluringly to create ideal grape-growing conditions.

Cellar doors are dotted across the rolling hills between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin, many with tasting rooms and restaurants to entice visitors to linger over tantalising lunches. The region is best known for its world-class Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, though in truth it’s hard to find a less-than-fabulous wine across any of Margaret River’s varietals.

Aerial view of car driving along Point Picquet at Eagle Bay Beach, Dunsborough. Aravina Estate, near Yallingup. Image credits: Tourism Western Australia

Vineyards such as Aravina Estate have created exceptional visitor experiences with winemakers conducting tours that include sampling wines direct from the barrels, or blending your own bottle before receiving a custom label. It’s a unique opportunity to take home your own bottle to share with friends or family.

Are you ready to step outside the everyday in Western Australia?

Get away from the well-known and well-trodden and recharge your spirit as you journey through this otherworldly landscape fringed by 12,500km of coastline, billions of years in the making. Start planning your dreamy Western Australia holiday today.

This article is brought to you by APT Luxury Travel. Visit us online, call 1800 829 896 or contact an APT Travel Expert.

The post Western Australia’s magical wonderland awaits – here are 8 experiences not to miss appeared first on Australian Geographic.

A truly remote experience – and one of Australia’s best multi-day walks. Access is via plane, landing at Melaleuca, and then it is six to eight days – and 85km – in the wilderness as you follow the South Coast Track from Melaleuca through some of southwest Tassie’s most spectacular terrain, to pretty Cockle Creek. You can tackle this monster independently or guided; Tasmanian Expeditions run guided adventures on the SCT but you must have previous multi-day trek experience and be able to carry a pack-load of around 15-20kg. 

There are no huts on the SCT – you need to carry all your gear and food – and the track is challenging. The reward for all that hard effort is full immersion in a true wilderness. The weather this far south is volatile and unpredictable – be fully prepared for all conditions. AGA Editor Justin Walker walked the SCT in the middle of summer and experienced everything from wild storms and six-degree Celsius daytime temps to very warm, sunny days. The track is (in)famous for its muddy sections, some of which will see the unwary walker sink down to near-waist level, so be prepared for wet, muddy gear (especially boots/socks). 

The first few days are a great intro; walkers experience deserted beaches, thick rainforest, river crossings (and a boat crossing) and sublime campsites. Then, midway, it is the big one: the crossing of the Ironbound Range, a full day climbing from sea level, up to over 1000m, and then back down to the beautiful Deadmans Bay campsite overlooking the Southern Ocean (a perfect base for an optional rest day). This day will test your trekking fitness but reward you with either amazing vistas (on a clear day) or a memorably wild buffeting from wind or rain up on the exposed top if the weather is not cooperating. Either way, it is a memorable experience. And the South Cape Range (around half as high as the Ironbounds) is nearly as much fun. The SCT has earned its reputation as a top trek for a very good reason: it is simply brilliant.

Ride the Timber Trail, NZ

One of NZ’s Great Rides, this 85km (two-day) bike journey takes riders through the spectacular Pureora Forest Park, in the Central North Island region. The Timber Trail can be ridden in either direction, but starting at Pureora in the north, and finishing at Ongarue in the south, is the more popular.

Opened in 2013, the highlights of this ride are many, and include riding through Mt Pureora’s Cloud Forest (there are some great lookouts here), old logging relics, eight suspension bridges (three of which are more than 100 metres in length), oodles of birdlife to observe (including the North Island robin), lots of awesome singletrack to enjoy and some true tall timber, in the form of rimu and totara, to provide shade along the way.

Starting in the north entails a slow climb covering around 15km in distance as you wind your way up the slopes of Mt Pureora and then through pristine Pikiariki Ecological Area (this area of virgin rainforest was spared the timber mills’ axes), with its podocarp trees and native birdlife. The ride continues with a side-track (ironically, taken on foot) to the 1135m Mt Pureora trig, before a belting 8km downhill section before the first of eight big bridges (this one, at 115m, is impressive). Camping options abound at the midway mark at Piropiro, with campsites, a lodge (fully serviced; bookings are required) and the aptly named Camp Epic, with self-catering and glamping options on offer (bookings are required here, too).

The following day’s ride total 45km and kicks off with undulating terrain before another huge bridge (the 141m Maramataha Bridge – NZ’s third-longest suspension bridge) before a 2.5km climb and then another awesome descent where, from the 47km mar, you’ll start encountering historic pioneer remnants (huts, bridges, etc.). Then it’s on to the Ongarue Spiral (at the 75km mark), an engineering marvel that is a loop in a tram line taking you through a tunnel, thus making the traverse of this rugged section notably easier. 

The final leg is through more open terrain, including farmland (be sure to respect the private landowners’ decision to allow access through this area and leave not trace), before finishing at Ongarue for a well-earned meal and cold beverage.

Climbing in the Southern Alps, NZ

The rugged Southern Alps of New Zealand stretch some 500km – nearly the entire length of the South Island – and the area is highly regarded by the global mountaineering community as a top-notch and challenging climbing destination. The South Island’s many peaks and the routes up them offer sublime climbing during summer (mainly) or, if you are an ice climber, you’ll be over there in the winter, chasing frozen waterfall routes. For ice climbing fanatics, winter in the Southern Alps is gold. Whether you opt to do an ice climbing course, or a guided trip, there are great locations dotted around Queenstown and Wanaka

NZ’s highest peak – Mt Cook – is ‘just’ 3724m, but the mountains here can be very challenging; even though lacking in total height, the vertical gain – as in the actual distance you climb up – is equivalent to far taller peaks in the Himalayas, as climbing in NZ often starts from near sea-level (the Southern Alps in summer are popular with Northern Hemisphere climbers due to the technical challenges they offer). This makes for big days of climbing, and the weather is also volatile; get stuck on a peak up here and you can be snowed in/stranded for days.

All this shouldn’t take away from the awesome experience of climbing in the South Island’s alpine regions. Mt Cook, Mt Aspiring and Mt Tasman are the most well-known targets for visiting mountaineers, but there are plenty of other mountains in the Alps that offer similar rewarding climbing, such as Mt Earnslaw and Mt Sefton. Thanks to NZ’s Department of Conservation (DOC)  backcountry and alpine hut system, you can base yourself out of a hut, such as Pioneer Hut, on the west coast, and pick off the summits of the many surrounding peaks.

NZ is obviously famous for its mountaineers (yep, Sir Ed Hilary, of course) and it also has fantastic climbing guide companies such as Adventure Consultants, Aspiring Guides (both based in Wanaka) and Alpine Guides (based out of the Mt Cook area). Each offer guided climbs of famous peaks such as Aspiring and Cook, and fully guided ‘Summit Weeks’ in the mountains where you are based out of a hut and can climb (or tweak your technique) over seven days up in the Alps. AG Adventure has been fortunate enough to tackle a few peaks with these companies over the years and cannot recommend them all highly enough. If we had to suggest any one peak, we’d opt for Mt Aspiring, located in the national park of the same name, and known as the southern hemisphere’s ‘Matterhorn’ owing to its similar profile to that of the famous European peak.

For those just looking to get started in alpine adventures, the South Island has some great high-altitude trekking routes. Ball Pass and Jubilee Pass are two, with the Jubilee Pass offering a crossing of the Southern Alps (it replaced the infamous Copland Pass as the preferred route). Both of these are for experienced trekkers looking to go that next step. For those looking at a family option, a day trekking on Fox and/or Franz Josef Glacier is brilliant. Guided trips run most days over summer – and the kids will love it.

Walk the Yorke, SA

In December 2015, two coastal walking trails launched in Australia. One – the Three Capes Track in Tasmania – arrived with fanfare, becoming an immediate part of the national bushwalking psyche; the other remains a secret of sorts despite making an enticing, near-complete circuit of South Australia’s beach-lined Yorke Peninsula.

Shaped like a leg, as if naturally designed to be walked, this elongated peninsula is the setting for Walk the Yorke, a 500-kilometre (km) trail that takes the longest journey possible between Port Wakefield and Moonta Bay. Stringing together holiday towns, surf beaches, remote stretches of cliff-lined coast, samphire flats and lighthouses lined like pickets around the foot of ‘Yorkes’, the trail has a suitably holiday-like design – you can commit weeks to walking the entire route, or simply dip into highlight sections along various stretches of coast.

Divided into 16 sections ranging from 17.6 to 41.6km (though most commonly around 25 to 30km) and passing through every one of the peninsula’s coastal towns, as well as 19 dedicated campgrounds, the trail is accessible at multiple points, making it easy to break the greater journey into parts. 

Despite the name, Walk the Yorke isn’t exclusively for walkers, with the trail also open to cyclists. For most of the route, the path is shared, diverging several times, especially around the peninsula’s foot, as hikers take to beaches and cyclists hurry ahead on roads.

The trail begins in Port Wakefield, 100km north of Adelaide, leaving the hubbub of Highway One and skirting the mangrove-covered Clinton Conservation Park to round the inner leg of the peninsula and begin the journey south. Here, it predominantly hugs the shoreline as it hops between fishing towns such as Ardrossan, Stansbury and Edithburgh. Each town offers reasons to pause – you could tour an oyster farm at Stansbury, or even work as a deckie for a day; or book a night among the seabirds and penguins at the lighthouse keeper’s cottage on uninhabited Troubridge Island, offshore from Edithburgh.

Walk the Yorke is at its most rugged in the south, as the trail rounds Yorkes’ craggy foot between Edithburgh, 150km along the trail, and Point Turton. This 200km section provides views across the sea to Kangaroo Island – at times just 40km away – as well as traversing surf beaches such as Pondalowie Bay, which is just as often home to dolphins as surfboards. Staked along this wild stretch are four lighthouses, providing a reminder of the ferocity of the sea around Yorkes’ dangling foot.

The last of the lighthouses, at Corny Point, marks a major turning in the trail, swinging back east along beaches to the Pines, and then turning back up the leg of the peninsula at Port Turton. The trail here is a glimpse into Yorkes’ enduring fishing culture, from the colourful tractors dispensing boats into the sea at Hardwicke Bay to the century-old wooden davits once used to hoist boats out of the water at Bluff Beach. 

Past Port Victoria, the trail crosses the Nharangga Aboriginal Lands before making its final approach into the copper-mining boomtown of Moonta Bay, 500km of walking or cycling complete and yet just across the peninsula’s hip from where this amazing walking journey started. 

Trek Byangee Mountain, NSW

In the south-west of the Shoalhaven lies the dramatic Budawang mountain range, long a magnet for local bushwalkers. Roads lead only to the fringes of this rugged area which is designated as wilderness. Most Budawangs destinations are the preserve of self-sufficient multi-day hikers but Byangee Mountain is an iconic 11.5km-return walk accessible to fit and experienced day-walkers.

Northwest of local landmark Pigeon House Mountain stands an elongated mesa with sheer, forbidding walls. This landmark is often referred to as Byangee Walls and was long thought to be the preserve of climbers until a hidden, narrow chute was discovered that allows walkers to reach the plateau. The highlight for many walkers, however, remains the passage along the base of the walls – first of the Castle and then of Byangee – to reach the get-up. Once you’re on top, the views are dramatic and ever-changing as you roam around the plateau. There are no exposed sections on its rock scrambles, but this is an undoubtedly challenging walk.

The first section from Long Gully campsite, crosses the Yadboro River, then climbs steadily through open eucalypt forest. After almost an hour, the trail narrows to steps and a sharp nose on the lower tier of the Castle looms ahead. The path now sidles along the base of the rock walls, meandering around obstacles. After about 15 minutes a rough footpad off to the left leads to amazing Cathedral Cave where there is a garden of tall tree ferns. A view of Byangee Walls and Pigeon House opens up just before you reach Castle Gap, then you cross this saddle to reach the northwestern tip of Byangee. The path then skirts left, never straying far from the walls as you pass overhangs with spectacular weathering and walls with distinct bands of rock deposit. About 400m along, you reach a chute marked by arrows. This indicates the route up to the plateau and the spectacular views to come. Allow plenty of time for a lunch break on the plateau to soak up the vast panorama.

You’ll need a detailed guide and topographic map, or you can use the AllTrails app. Roads are mostly unsealed forestry roads and become slippery after rain. 

Walk the Paparoa Track, NZ

New Zealand’s latest Great Walk (the 10th Great Walk, in fact) is a shared-use (hikers and MTB) extravaganza that takes ‘trampers’ (Kiwi-speak for bushwalkers) across the Paparoa Range and through the ruggedly spectacular landscape that is Paparoa National Park, on the wild west coast of New Zealand’s South Island. Unlike some other NZ Great Walks, this one can be walked all year round.

As a Department of Conservation (DOC) Great Walk, the 55.1km Paparoa Track is very well constructed and the three DOC Great Walk huts along the track are brilliant, featuring the usual Great Walk inclusions of bunk beds (with mattresses), gas cooking outlets, heating and (non-flush) toilets. There’s also water on tap (this is untreated so be sure to boil before use). As with all of NZ’s Great Walks, you need to book hut tickets before you go, but once that’s sorted, you can just focus on what is a brilliant three-day walking experience (there’s also a four-day guided version).

The Paparoa Track is best walked south-to-north, from Smoke-ho car park (near Blackball, 45 mins drive from Greymouth) and starts with walkers traversing the historic Croesus Track (a relic of the region’s goldrush days) then climbing to Ces Clark Hut before you traverse alpine terrain (scrub and tussock) while copping some cracking views to the Tasman Sea. Moonlight Hut is the first night’s accommodation before you tackle the escarpment and then descend through podocarp forest to Pororari Hut. 

The final day means more descending through gorge country and beech forest before reaching the junction with the Inland Pack Track, and then dropping down to the beautiful Pororari River and on to the finish-point of Waikori Road car park. (Mountain bikers split off at the junction of the Inland Pack Track and ride through the Punakaiki River valley to reach the car park.)

The Paparoa Track is yet another example of how well NZ’s Department of Conservation has nailed the walking experience and, for those who have already ‘done the Great Walks’ this latest one is a must to add to that list.

Explore Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, WA

Claimed to be the most popular national park in WA, this 19,092-hectare giant lays its claim to that crown thanks to the abundant outdoor activities inside it – surfing, swimming, diving, hiking (the famous Cape to Cape multi-day hike is located here), cycling, touring, camping, fishing and more – as well as the landscape combo of pristine coastline abutting the often-ferocious swells of the Indian Ocean meshed with heavily timbered forest behind the dunes. 

The park has four campgrounds – Boranup, Point Road, Conto and Jarrahdene – with all of these being of the first-arrive, best-score type. Point Road has probably the most appeal as it is accessed via a 4X4-only track and is a small campground (it has space for roughly seven tents) sheltered from winds on the edge of the Boranup karri forest, with access to the nearby coastline via Point Road itself. Conto, with 116 camp sites, is ideal for larger groups – and those after a bit more space along with some ‘luxuries’, such as a campers’ kitchen, tables, toilets, and barbecues – and is right next to Conto Springs Beach. Boranup is another small campground located in the middle of Boranup karri forest and has only seven sites.

The 135km Cape to Cape walking track links Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse in the north and its Cape Leeuwin counterpart in the south (both are open to visitors). You can walk a number of the track’s sections as day-walks if you haven’t got the time to experience the Full Monty.

Swimming here is a no-brainer; the more sheltered Cape Naturaliste and Shelley Cove in the north offer perfect family swim locations, along with Bunker Bay, located on the northern side of Cape Naturaliste. Surfing is super-popular; the Indian Ocean swells are held in very high regard by the global surf community. Margaret River, Guillotines, South Point, Gallows – are just some of the popular surf spots here, and there are myriad others. 

Away from the coast and it is time to head underground. The park contains numerous caves, with visitors able to explore any number of them, including Calgardup and Giants Cave. You can also opt for guided tours of Mammoth Cave and Lake Cave.

Trek the Dusky Track, NZ

Trekking this Fiordland giant is a serious undertaking. It is longer – and far tougher – than other walks in Fiordland, such as the Milford and Kepler tracks. The reward for all the hard yakka is some of the most stunning landscapes in the South Island as you traverse two mountain ranges (up to 1600m) and three major valleys – and cross 21 three-wire bridges. 

The Dusky Track is around 84km in length, links Lake Hauroko (NZ’s deepest, at 462m) and Lake Manapouri, and can take anywhere between eight and 14 days (there is a two-day side trip to Supper Cove if you’re keen). It can be walked in either direction, but we recommend starting in Lake Hauroko, via boat to the track head, and making your way north to Lake Manapouri. The sidetrip to Supper Cover is an option, but we highly recommend it; if you’ve made the effort to get to this incredibly remote and wild part of the South Island, you might as well complete the full trek.

There are so many highlights, but a few standouts are the views from the top of the Pleasant Range, across beautiful Dusky Sound, with mountains in the background; the big climb up to Centre Pass, on the leg between Kintail and Upper Spey huts; and then the side-track from there to the summit of Mt Memphis. Oh, and after each day’s trek, there are also those welcoming backcountry huts to look forward to.

An important note: You need to be very fit, experienced and well prepared to tackle the Dusky Track. Pack your toughest weather gear and pack extra in lieu of potential delays on the track. Be sure to pack extra food; it’s a long trek – and yes, extra food adds weight – but it could be longer (and more miserable) if you get delayed by a day or two due to flooding and have skimped on supplies. (Don’t forget to also pack a stove, fuel, and extra matches; the Dusky Track huts do not have stoves.)

Due to the track’s remote location, NZ’s Department of Conservation (DOC) highly recommends taking a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) or mountain radio, as well as topo maps of the track. 

Walk the Grand Canyon Track, NSW

There are many outstanding bushwalks in Sydney’s Blue Mountains, about 130km west of the city, but the Grand Canyon’s expansive vistas, narrow chasms, striking canyon scenery, and a surprise around each corner, make this walk one of the most popular in the mountains. Much of the walk traverses a ledge that looks down into the canyon from above but there is a wonderful section where you’ll find yourself picking your way over stepping stones along the floor of the canyon. 

From the most westerly carpark the Grand Canyon Track zigzags downwards through open woodland, soon turning into damp forest. The vegetation is colourful and varied, with an abundance of waratahs in spring and flannel flowers in summer. Passing the ‘Rotunda’, a large overhang and Aboriginal occupation shelter, you’ll soon go through a completely enclosed tunnel, created many years ago by a rock fall. Emerging on the other side, you’ll pass under the spray of a waterfall.

About 20 minutes after crossing a wooden bridge, the track meets Greaves Creek. It’s tranquil and sheltered here, surprisingly cool even on the hottest of days. At the end of this stretch, there is a perfect swimming hole on your right. A couple of minutes further on you arrive at the Rodriguez Pass junction, leading to Beauchamp Falls. From this point the track ascends steeply to Evans Lookout, where there are views over the Grose Valley and across to Mt Banks and Mt Tomah.  From here, follow the easy footpath back to the carparks.

Despite the name, the Blue Mountains aren’t really mountains at all. The entire area is one huge plateau dissected by gorges and waterways. The canyons are formed by water running down planes of weakness in the rock and further scoured when flash floods toss rocks and debris along the canyon walls. 

This walk can be busy on the weekend so aim for midweek if possible. If you want to continue walking, the Cliff Top Walk (6km return) is nearby. 

Sea kayak Bathurst Harbour, TAS

Kayaking in Tasmania’s wild southwest can provide some remarkable contrasts. In the protected, tannin-stained waters of Bathurst Harbour, you can glide across mercury-smooth waters. Poke your nose out into the open seas of Port Davey and it can turn into a high-sea rodeo.

After a short but spectacular flight to Melaleuca from Hobart, trips with Roaring 40s Kayaking begin in the Melaleuca River with a gentle paddle north into Bathurst Harbour. From here, itineraries are flexible and dependent on the fickle weather. On any given week – or even day – conditions might range from breathless mornings to 25-knot-wind blasts stirring up metres-high swells.

Typically, though, trips head through the Bathurst Narrows, paddling along the foot of Mt Rugby and poking around empty shores such as Bramble Cove and Balmoral Beach. Past Bramble Cove, the Narrows balloon out into Port Davey, with a protected approach guarded by the narrow Breaksea Islands. Turn south and it’s a short paddle into the long beach at Spain Bay or turn north and head for the old Huon pining camp at Settlement Point at Port Davey’s northern tip. If time permits, there’s the possibility of continuing further north into the little-known Davey River Gorge, a place once known to the area’s hardy piners as Hell’s Gates.

On a busy week in this corner of Tasmania, you might spot a yacht or two, but mostly this area is undisturbed by people. The only sounds might be the wind and your paddles, and nights are spent camped behind castaway beaches. Behind them rise low peaks such as Mt Stokes and Mt Beattie that entice paddlers out of their kayaks and onto the slopes for views across the harbour and deep into the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, of which Bathurst Harbour forms one remote and remarkable edge – the dark waters here limit the penetration of light, resulting in deep-sea creatures such as sea pens and sea fans growing at depths of just 10 metres. 

Eastern Plateau Walk, VIC

The Mount Buffalo Plateau was formed millions of years ago when volcanic activity created a highland almost triple the height of the current plateau. Since then, weathering has shaped the park’s granite spine that we see today. One of Victoria’s oldest national parks, Mt Buffalo’s diverse landscapes include colossal granite tors, 300m cliffs, plunging waterfalls, beautiful wildflowers, snow gum forests and mossy plains. Not to mention abundant wildlife and flora – gang-gang cockatoos, wombats, swamp wallabies, eastern pygmy possums, and the bogong moths – that drew the Minjambuta people here for summer feasts and ceremonies over the aeons. 

This 9km circuit walk (graded as medium) covers many of Mount Buffalo’s most recognisable landmarks. Starting from the Gorge Visitor Area, the route follows the Gorge-Lake Catani track. Soon Billisons Lookout provides views of Mt Hotham and Mt Feathertop from a rock platform, then the walk continues to Lake Catani through stands of alpine ash and snow gum woodland. The lake is a lovely spot for a picnic or swim, and also supports a healthy population of brown trout for anglers. Take the Chalwell Galleries Track, near the campground, for an exciting route through a maze of large granite rocks that form curious passages. You’ll need to scramble down between the boulders and lower yourself through a narrow crevice using the handrails. Descending to Lakeside Road to pick up the Lakeside Walking Trail, the route heads west along the southern fringe of Lake Catani. Candle heath and thick mats of sphagnum moss grow in the boggy areas around the lake’s edge. There’s a short stretch along the bitumen of Mount Buffalo Road as the trail swings north to Grossmans Mill Picnic Area and the Monolith Track. The giant balancing rock stands at 1464m above sea level on a rugged granite tor. A staircase climbs to a viewing area that provides 360-degree panoramas of the plateau and Lake Catani. From here return to the Gorge via a quiet forested gully.

Adventures in Wilsons Promontory, VIC

To a bushwalker, camper or kayaker, a night at the Prom is indeed a special event. Dangling from the Gippsland coast like a hook, Wilsons Promontory forms the southernmost point of the Australian mainland and has long been one of Victoria’s favourite national parks, bringing together beaches, bush, a classic bushwalking circuit and a host of water activities.

The definitive Prom experience is hiking the Southern Circuit, which loops out from the slopes of Mt Oberon, crossing a series of white-sand beaches along the southern edges of the promontory. Typically taking between three and five days, and liberally dotted with campsites, the 41-kilometre walk passes through the likes of large Sealers Cove and Waterloo Bay as well as tiny Refuge Cove.

Broaden the loop (59 kilometres) and you can spend a night in a cottage at the Wilsons Promontory Light station, which is accessible only on foot, before detouring to South Point, mainland Australia’s southern tip. [Note that the track from Mt Oberon to Sealers Cove is closed until 2024, requiring bushwalkers to detour through the Telegraph Track.] The longer, wilder Northern Circuit journeys through a remote wilderness area and is better suited to more experienced walkers.

Camping is the lure for so many of the Prom’s visitors, with Tidal River among the most popular national park campgrounds in Victoria’s – through the summer school holidays, there’s a minimum seven-night stay at its 484 campsites. The camp provides easy access to sand and swims at Norman Beach, Squeaky Beach and Little Oberon Bay, as well as serving as a de facto finish for the Southern Circuit and a base for kayaking explorations in both the sea and river.

Tidal River’s namesake, tannin-darkened waterway provides flat, often-mirror-still paddling past the river’s signature granite boulders, or you can launch from the beach to explore bays such as Little Oberon, Picnic and Whisky.

In the park’s north, three-day Sea Kayak Australia tours depart from Port Welshpool, paddling the 13-kilometre crossing to Tin Mine Cove near the Prom’s northern tip. This is a rarely visited piece of the promontory, otherwise seen only by bushwalkers on the Northern Circuit. This kayak trip also takes you into Corner Inlet Marine Park, one of Victoria’s 12 Ramsar sites, attracting nearly 50 per cent of Victoria’s migratory wader birds each winter. (For the hardiest of kayakers, the Prom also serves as the starting block for one of the country’s toughest paddles – the epic crossing of Bass Strait to north-east Tasmania.)

To range further out into the Prom’s seas, book a boat tour with Wilsons Promontory Cruises. Its yellow boats depart from Tidal River and head south through Wilsons Promontory Marine Park to South Point and a chain of nearby islands. The tiny Anderson Islets house one of the largest Australian fur seal colonies in Victoria, while the neighbouring Cleft Island, aka Skull Rock, is a hulking granite monolith rising from the sea. 

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Alice Springs, NT

Distance: 54.4km  Grade: Easy to Advanced 

Hugged tightly against Alice Springs is an extensive mountain bike trail network, radiating from the town’s very edges. The ever-expanding network is divided into two sections, Westside and Eastside, with more than 100km of trails between them.

The central trailhead is at the Alice Springs Telegraph Station, north of town, from where trails spiral out across the desert sands. Three-quarters of the trails are graded Blue (Intermediate), with a couple of Black (Expert) runs and a smattering of Greens (Easy). There’s a beautifully natural feel to the design of the network, with trails rolling over slabs of rock, dipping through dry creek beds and ascending the low hills that dot the desert.

The Eastside trails stay fairly close to Alice, wriggling out past the town’s north-eastern side, and contain some of the network’s more technical features. The Westside trails begin across the Stuart Highway, crossing open country towards John Flynn’s Grave and the Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges.

For a full day out, making the network’s longest loop, set out from the Telegraph Station on Arrwe, linking up to Apwelantye and Road Train on the Eastside trails. Beside the Ghan railway, Road Train meets Hell Line, part of the Westside trails. The longest trail in the network, Hell Line loops out west along low hills with big views of the West MacDonnnells and Heavitree Gap, before crossing the Larapinta Trail as it turns back east to meet Bus or Locomotive trails on its return to Alice’s western edge. A 3km section of the Larapinta Trail, between Apwelantye and the Stuart Highway, can also be cycled.

Majura Pines, ACT

Distance: 20km +  Grade: Easy to Intermediate  

The Majura Pines trail network is one of the ACT’s (and Australia’s) oldest mountain bike networks and one that is a tick-off item for all riders, from beginners to expert. The network contains more than 20km of signposted trails and it’s an ideal family riding destination thanks to its famous Green Loop (6km) and beginners’ area, right near the car park off Majura Parkway (The Flash and Crazy Crab Walk are ideal for beginners/kids and there’s also a pump track, named Majurassic Park, here). The Green Loop includes trails such as Wombat and Cannery Row with some climbs mixed in – and all easily followed thanks to the green arrows. 

The Blue Loop is our pick for the best ‘Majura experience’ for intermediate and expert riders as it includes some of the location’s most famous trails, such as Planet Claire (a fantastic descent in the forest’s southern section), Sleepy Hollow and, in the northern part (nearer to the winery) , the climb up Mr Squiggle (yep, we love the names, too) and along Batcave, before another fun descent, following Pinot Grinio and Bombora back down before returning south along Mata Hari and then on to the junction with the underpass trail back to the carpark. There are numerous other trail combinations for a full day, so be sure to check out the other options while you’re there.

West Coast, TAS

Distance: 60km +  Grade: Easy to Advanced   

They call it Tasmania’s wild west coast for many reasons. The weather is wild, the scenery is wild, and the history of the area is pretty darn wild too, from penal settlements to environmental protests. Now, you can add wild mountain bike tracks to all that.

At the very top of the heap – and Mount Owen, a peak overlooking Queenstown – is a gravity trail called Natural Selection. This trail opened in 2021, but some people are already claiming it’s Australia’s wildest ride. Steep, rocky, steep, loose, exposed to the elements on the bare mountainside and – did we mention? – steep. It’s the sort of trail only experts need apply to ride and only then with full-bore enduro or downhill rigs and the complete package of protective gear.

If that doesn’t quite sound like your scene, don’t worry, you’re not alone. The trail network, developed by local MTBers, with the backing of the West Coast Council, and state and federal government funding, has something for everyone. Most trails are carved out on the flanks of Mount Owen. Generally, the higher you go the harder it gets. The easier trails start right out of Queenstown, but shuttles are mandatory for the likes of Natural Selection; the ride to the trailhead is a hair-raising experience.

Related: The Ultimate Guide to Mountain Biking

But the wild west coast also encompasses rides closer to towns like Strahan and Zeehan and include much more family-friendly experiences like the 1.8km Ocean Beach Trail. As you cruise along this smooth multi-use ride consider the next landfall westward is 9600km away in South Africa. It’s glorious, mind-boggling and utterly, yes, wild.

Melrose, SA

Distance: 230m-6.6km Grade: Easy to Advanced  

Scratched into the slopes of Mt Remarkable, the Melrose mountain bike network covers around 100km, split into three sections: Melrose Town Trails, Bartagunyah and Willowie Forest.

The Melrose Town Trails form the heart of the network. Leaving from the very centre of town, they set off in all directions across and up the slopes of the mountain. The signature trails are arguably Weaving Camels and Dodging Bullets. The former is a 1km blue (intermediate) trail that rolls along the banks of Willochra Creek, set beautifully among large river red gums and functioning as an access trail to the network’s southern end. Here, the blue Big Rhua and a selection of black trails coil up the slopes to Wilburs Watch, a ridge-top building with extensive views over Melrose and the flat earth well beyond.

Dodging Bullets is a playful Black run that dips through a concrete pipe and, near its end, cuts through the middle of a tumbledown farmhouse – how many chances will you ever get to ride through a house?

The Town Trails are, by nature, exposed, with trails hanging over steep drops, with plenty of exposure, meaning they are graded higher than they might be on less precipitous terrain. Willowie Forest, 8km north of town, has good offerings for novice riders, especially on the flowing Twisted Sisters.

Narooma, NSW

Distance: 30km (increasing to 90km+ this year) Grade: Easy to Intermediate/Advanced

The pretty NSW far south coast town of Narooma is famous for fishing and its beaches, but is now earning a deserved reputation as a spectacular mountain biking destination, thanks to its trail network located in Bodalla State Forest. With its mix of Easy and Intermediate trails, this network has something for every rider; you can link any number of trails, such as Kents, Seven to Two and Re-Group for shorter loops through lush, dense rainforest, with a few creek crossings thrown in. 

Built by the hard-working members of Narooma MTB Club, this already amazing network has just received a huge expansion of another 70km or so this year. With names like Shakey Goanna, Side Tracked, Snoodle and Python’s Path, there are loads of different routes and sections you can connect to allow hours of riding, with both undulating and relatively flat trail sections to choose from. 

As well as enjoying the landscape, keep an eye out for the prolific birdlife found here, as well as reptiles, wallabies and more. Looking from above, it’s hard to believe bike trails can be found in some of the really thick rainforest sections – but they are, and that is what makes riding here such a joy –  you are totally immersed in a wild environment, but still only five minutes away from the cafes, pubs and beaches of Narooma township for that crucial after-ride chill-out.

Flowtown, Falls Creek, VIC

Distance: 5.1km  Grade: Easy-Advanced

Falls Creek is one of several Victorian Alpine resorts that have embraced bicycling as a summer recreational alternative to the traditional focus on winter skiing.

The trails (a mix of easy through to advanced; the beginners’ loop is awesome for kids) spread out from the village like a spider’s web, making out-and-back rides easy to navigate. There’s also a shuttle service running in the appropriate months for those disinclined to labour back up the hill. There are now about 45km of trails devoted to gravity mountain biking, with another 40km to come in the next few years. The resort’s star attraction (for the experienced rider) is definitely Flowtown, an absolute hoot of a 5.1km descent. 

From the edge of the village to Howmans Gap ticket box, Flowtown incorporates rollercoaster berms, wide bridges and massive rollers, taking riders through snow gum-dotted, rocky landscapes, as it drops 324 metres down through sub-alpine forest before entering lush green forests of hardwood and ferns, and crossing a number of small creeks before the end. 

For a truly glorious longer downhill run, you can link to Flowtown from some of Falls Creeks other trails, such as Wishing Well or Blackout, both accessed via the Aqueduct Trail. Once at the bottom of Flowtown – and once you’ve caught your breath – climb back up via Packhorse and, if you want to (and you will), repeat one of the greatest MTB descents in Australia.

Dwellingup, WA

Distance: 20km +  Grade: Easy to Intermediate

Often the destination of school camps, Dwellingup is far enough away from Perth to feel like a holiday but close enough for a day trip. It buzzes with riders on most weekends. 

The nearby Marrinup Trail is always a classic, with new trails being built to connect it to the main street. Nearby Turner Hill is also a classic technical singletrack and a favourite on the race circuit. A recent refresh has given it a fresh lease on life, but the majority of the focus every weekend is the Murray Valley just below the town. 

Formerly, this area was a downhill destination, but once the pine plantations were logged and the old trails destroyed, steps were taken to build something better for the wider riding community. The resulting trails have a shuttle road and a network of options. Crowd favourites include Inzamia and Karrakatoa, which have you in hyperdrive whooping down the hill. The Munda Biddi Trail also passes through this network, giving riders of all abilities the opportunity to sample great rides. 

Every year in September, the town explodes with trail runners and mountain bikers participating in the Dwellingup 100, a race which sews together a complex network of singletrack and trails challenging riders to ride up to 100km in the day. You can camp next to the stream at the base of the trails and the city feels much further away than it actually is.

Atherton Forest Mountain Bike Park, QLD

Distance: 54.4km  Grade: Easy to Advanced 

Atherton is about an hour inland from the Tropical North Queensland ‘capital’ of Cairns, on the tablelands at a lofty 800 metres above sea level. Atherton is less busy (and a lot smaller) than Cairns, but with one big cycling-based asset: this town of 7000 is home to one of Australia’s most sensational trail networks – the Atherton Forest Mountain Bike Park.

Atherton meets all the ‘successful mountain bike town’ criteria: a great climate, awesome terrain, and the chance to ride to the trail network directly from town. Indeed, the trailhead (with change rooms and bike-wash facilities) is right on the main street, with the link trail out to the network, for easy trail access/return.

The 54.4km trail network sprawls over Baldy Mountain Forest Reserve and Herberton Range State Forest. Most of the riding is ‘flow’ trail, best suited to cross-country or trail bikes. There’s nothing too technical, although the ease with which you garner speed should be enough to keep you focused. 

You will find the easier trails in the lowlands, while intermediate trails cloverleaf off, taking you out into the hills. It’s a smart layout that’s ideal for groups of mixed abilities; in short, everyone has an awesome time riding, regardless of skill levels. The official trail maps are numbered; highlights include the bobsled descent of Trail 9 and the epic Trail 12, which loops off onto a life-changing descent and a scenic, gradual climb that takes you to the park’s highest point. For shorter loops, climb up to The Roundabout, and link up Trails 6 and 7.

Hot tips! 5 handy mountain bike maintenance skills

Here are a few tips to keep you and your bike rolling over the trails for years to come.

Free services are the best services: When you buy your new bike from a cycling retailer, they will usually offer you the first service for free. This service is the most important one in your bike’s lifecycle, so make sure you take them up on the offer! 

Like any piece of mechanical equipment, a new bike needs a little time for bolts to settle in and for cables to stretch a bit. Once these items are checked and re-tensioned, your bike will run sweetly for far longer.

Tyres are the ticket: The tyres on your bike are the only thing between you and terra firma, so keeping them at the optimum pressure is one of the best – and easiest – things you can to do to make your ride more enjoyable. Softer pressures are best in the dirt, and firmer pressures are ideal for hard-packed gravel and tarmac.

Take tools with you: Ask your local bike shop which multi-tool suits your bike best – and take it with you. Add a spare tube (even if you have tubeless tyres) and a pump to your backpack, and you’ve got a get-out-of-trouble kit. Chuck in a $10 note, glueless patches and a spare chain connector and you’re even more prepared. Why the cash? It can be used to cover a large gash in a tyre.

Ready, set, suspension: Like your tyres, suspension settings are a vital part of every ride. Most bikes are equipped with air-sprung suspension, which can also be tweaked to suit ability and terrain. More speed? Stiffen things up. Want to eat up bumps? Softer is the solution.

Less lube, more often: Specialist cycling lubricant is the best product to use on your bike’s drivetrain (chain, front rings and rear cassette). It’s slightly more expensive than other options, but you only need tiny amounts, and it doesn’t act like a magnet for dirt and grit. Buy once, buy right!

And, there’s more!

You want even more bike riding destinations? Click here for Aus Geo Adventure’s favourite family bike ride destinations.

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As well as this made-for-it landscape, the adventure infrastructure on the South Island is top-notch. NZ’s Great Walks track network (six of the 10 Great Walks are on the South Island) is world-renowned for its “ease of use” when it comes to getting over there and walking. And while both islands of NZ are also famous for their respective mountain biking scenes, the South Island is, literally, crisscrossed with both MTB trail networks and cycle touring opportunities. In fact, 13 of NZ’s 23 Great Rides are located on the South Island. Add in the fjords and rivers for paddling and – of course – the mighty Southern Alps for mountaineering and ice climbing, and you could spend nearly a lifetime in pursuit of outdoor perfection ‘down south’.

Feet first: Walking in the South Island

For keen multi-day hikers, the South Island is pure gold. With six of NZ’s Great Walks dotted around the island, from the northern coast’s Abel Tasman Coastal Walk and the nearby Heaphy Track (an AGA favourite) to Fiordland’s Kepler and Milford tracks, plus Mt Aspiring NP’s Routeburn Track in the south and the ‘new’ Paparoa Track in the west, you can pick and choose your desired experience in terms of which landscape you wish to walk through. In addition to these Great Walks, there are plenty of other backcountry hikes.

The set-up of the Great Walks is, really, the envy of the rest of the world; book your hut tickets and transport online via the NZ Department of Conservation (DOC) website’s Great Walks portal, then all you need to do is pack your gear and food, sort your flights, and you’ll soon be walking through an alpine or coastal wonderland. As mentioned, it is this ease of use when it comes to organising a multi-day walk that is the icing on the cake of what is a guaranteed epic experience. A heads-up, though, and reflecting their popularity, experiences such as the Milford and Routeburn tracks – along with the Abel Tasman Coastal Walk – are incredibly popular. To avoid disappointment, make sure you’re on the DOC booking site first thing on 1 July (when bookings open) to secure your desired dates. There are also guided options on the Milford and Routeburn tracks if you’re keen to explore that option.

Of course, there are far more than just the Great Walks. The proliferation of DOC backcountry huts throughout the South Island means you can opt for a more remote experience. Some of our favourite non-Great Walk multi-day walks include the four- to five-day Rees-Dart Circuit in Mt Aspiring National Park (NP), the Greenstone-Caples Circuit, and the remote (and mighty) eight- to 10-day Dusky Track, in Fiordland NP. These tracks are less popular than the Great Walks tracks as they are more rugged – and the huts are not as large, with no stoves (bring your own) – but the extra effort is worth it for those who are keen on more challenging, less crowded, routes. Transport to and from the more popular tracks’ end/start points is also easily organised via operators (these, as well as all DOC hut ticket pricing, can be found on the DOC website), which makes planning easy.

There are so many great tracks to choose from on the South Island that it’s near-impossible to name a stand-out. But, if we could only go with one, it’d be the three-day Routeburn Track. The neighbouring Milford Track gets a lot of attention, but the Routeburn is the perfect microcosm of the South Island hiking experience. Terrain ranges from wild rivers and deep alpine lakes to lush green rainforest and open alpine clearings with epic snow-capped mountain views. The DOC huts along this walk are fantastic, with one nestled beside a huge waterfall (Routeburn Falls Hut). Throw in some majestic alpine lakes (Lake Mackenzie Hut is located right beside its namesake), a fantastic side trip to Key Summit with its alpine tarns and Southern Alps views, and you have a crackerjack three days of walking in the wild. A bit further north you will find a big, challenging week in the wild, in the form of the eight-day Gillespie-Rabbit Pass Traverse.

For an enthralling, but more chilled walk, there is the Queen Charlotte Track, in the Marlborough Sound region at the top of the South Island (see more below). Here, you can either walk the 73.5km from the northward start point of Ship Cove to Anakiwa, before making your way back to the harbour town of Picton, admiring the waters of the Marlborough Sounds along the way, or you can ride it on a mountain bike. You can also kayak part of it/all of it, if you so wish. Accommodation along the track is in lodges and you can have your luggage transported between each lodge (via boat), so you just walk with a day-pack. Yep, the experience is amazing.

Pedal power

From crackers downhill runs and winding cross-country trails to famous cycle touring routes that range from one day to multiple – as well as heli-bike trails – the South Island packs in plenty for two-wheeled adventurers. Mountain bikers are confronted with (excuse the pun) a mountain of options; Queenstown has its brilliant bike park right in town, complete with DH track and pump track. Nearby Wanaka is surrounded by trails of varying grades that can be ridden – or, as per Queenstown, accessed via helicopter – for epic days out on the bike, before returning to your accommodation in town for the obligatory post-ride beverages (this writer is a massive fan of Speight’s Old Dark Ale. Just sayin’…) and planning of the next day’s riding adventure. A fantastic intermediate-level ride just outside Queenstown is Skippers Canyon, while Wanaka’s Sticky Forest offers sublime singletrack, and Bike Glendhu MTB Park (at Glendhu Bay, just out of Wanaka) is also a great way to spend time on two wheels. Cycling families can enjoy the Hawea River Track, connecting Wanaka to the nearby township of Lake Hawea, as it is both fun and scenic.

Further afield, on the South Island’s West Coast, around an hour from the town of Westport, is a true MTB big-bopper: the two- to three-day Old Ghost Road, touted as “NZ’s longest singletrack”. This 85km challenge (one of NZ’s 23 certified Great Rides) takes riders from deep in Buller Gorge through subalpine terrain all the way up above the tree line, staying in backcountry huts each night. Not too far from the Old Ghost Road is the Paparoa Track, the 10^th Great Walk that is also a bike ride. The 56km two- to three-day ride takes you over the high range of the same name, with epic views (and great riding) along the way.

Two other multi-day MTB adventures, further north, are the Heaphy Track (seasonal access: 1 May-30 Nov) in Kahurangi NP, staying at DOC huts (or campsites), and parts of the beautiful Queen Charlotte Track (QCT), with only the first QCT section from Meretoto/Ship Cove to Camp Bay being closed in the peak summer season (1 December–28 February; for the rest of the year, water transport can be arranged to drop off at Camp Bay to start). This awesome adventure starts from Picton on the South Island’s northern coast, where you catch a ferry form Picton Harbour to the start of the track before riding back along the QCT to town. The Heaphy is a three-day adventure, while the QCT can be ridden in two to three days (or longer). Accommodation on the QCT is in lodges overlooking the Marlborough Sounds each night or in campsites. And yes, it is fantastic.

Of course, no story on cycling adventures on the South Island could be written without mentioning that most famous of NZ cycle trails: the easy-graded Otago Central Rail Trail (OCRT). Touted as NZ’s “original” cycle trail, the OCRT offers a brilliant tour of majestic Central Otago for riders of all ages and skill levels. Travelling through a landscape that alternates between mountainous terrain, to river gorges and high-country sheep stations, it is a true bucket-list cycle tour. The Full-Monty three- to five-day version (roughly 150km) connects the towns of Clyde and Middlemarch (you can ride in either direction) and you will pass through 20 towns along the way, so can either camp or stay in more luxurious digs. The gentle gradient and wide gravel trail ensure there’s plenty of time to look at the scenery as you roll past and, if you want, you can even buy a Rail Trail Passport as proof of this achievement. Nearby is another Central Otago must-ride: the one-day Lake Dunstan Trail.

Another South Island big-bopper ride is the easy-intermediate Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail. This six-day, 312km epic takes riders from Mt Cook National Park (with its awesome views of that famous peak) across eight sections of trail that meander through forests, grasslands, beside rivers and lakes and (finally) beaches near the east coast town of Oamaru. The trail surface ranges from gravel to bitumen roads; for those with less time you can also drop in and out along the different sections for day rides.

Going high: Climbing in the South Island

The rugged Southern Alps stretch some 500km – nearly the entire length of the South Island – and the area is highly regarded by the global mountaineering community as a top-notch and challenging climbing destination. For Australian mountaineers, the South Island’s many peaks and the routes up them offer sublime climbing during summer (mainly) or, if you are an ice climber, you’ll be over there in the winter, chasing frozen waterfall routes. For ice climbing fanatics, winter in the Southern Alps is gold. Whether you opt to do an ice climbing course, or a guided trip, there are great locations dotted around Queenstown and Wanaka.

NZ’s highest peak – Mt Cook – is ‘just’ 3724m, but the mountains here can be very challenging; even though lacking in total height, the vertical gain – as in the actual distance you climb up – is equivalent to far taller peaks in the Himalayas, as climbing in NZ often starts from near sea-level (the Southern Alps in summer are popular with Northern Hemisphere climbers due to the technical challenges they offer). This makes for big days of climbing, and the weather is also volatile; get stuck on a peak up here and you can be snowed in/stranded for days.

All this shouldn’t take away from the awesome experience of climbing in the South Island’s alpine regions. Mt Cook, Mt Aspiring and Mt Tasman are the most well-known objectives for visiting mountaineers, but there are plenty of other mountains in the Alps that offer similar rewarding climbing, such as Mt Earnslaw and Mt Sefton. Thanks to NZ’s DOC backcountry and alpine hut system, you can base yourself out of a hut, such as Pioneer Hut, on the west coast, and pick off the summits of the many surrounding peaks.

NZ is obviously famous for its mountaineers (yep, Sir Ed Hilary, of course) and it also has fantastic climbing guide companies such as Adventure Consultants, Aspiring Guides (both based in Wanaka) and Alpine Guides (based out of the Mt Cook area). Each offer guided climbs of famous peaks such as Aspiring and Cook, and fully guided ‘Summit Weeks’ in the mountains where you are based out of a hut and can climb (or tweak your technique) over seven days up in the Alps. AG Adventure has been fortunate enough to tackle a few peaks with these companies over the years and cannot recommend them all highly enough. If we had to suggest any one peak, we’d opt for Mt Aspiring, located in the national park of the same name, and known as the southern hemisphere’s ‘Matterhorn’ owing to its similar profile to that of the famous European peak.

For those just looking to get started in alpine adventures, the South Island has some great high-altitude trekking routes. Ball Pass and Jubilee Pass are two, with the Jubilee Pass offering a crossing of the Southern Alps (it replaced the infamous Copland Pass as the preferred route).

Another option for families is a day trekking on Fox and/or Franz Josef Glacier. Guided trips run most days over summer and having the opportunity to explore these amazing features is awesome – the kids will love it.

Water, water, everywhere

Mention the South Island and most people think of the hiking, climbing and biking opportunities, but the island is also a popular paddling destination. For sea kayakers, the northern coastline is the draw, with a multi-day Abel Tasman coast paddle Kaiteriteri and Golden Bay’s Tata Beach. This trip follows (roughly) the Abel Tasman Coastal Walk route; there’s plenty of camping available at beaches along the way (or you can book into a DOC hut), it offers the chance to paddle alongside always-curious New Zealand fur seals.

The Queen Charlotte Track is known as a hike or bike route that winds through the Marlborough Sounds region on the north/northeast coast of the South Island. You can also kayak here, with options ranging from single-day guided paddles through to multi-day adventures (guided or independent) where you can spend the night in a variety of accommodation options and even have your gear transported there each day via boat, so you only have to pack your day’s equipment in your kayak.

Venture further south to the Fiordland region (note: Kiwis spell ‘fjord’ as ‘fiord’) and you have the choice of canoeing, rafting, or kayaking some of this region’s white-water, including the Landsborough River, or you can once again jump in a sea kayak and explore the ‘big four’ waterways – lakes Manapouri and Te Anau, and Doubtful and Milford sounds – either as day trips or multi-day adventures. Lake Manapouri is often described as NZ’s most beautiful lake, and with more than 30 islands, plenty of quiet bays to explore and brilliant beach camping, it’s a great multi-day kayak trip for keen independent paddlers.

Milford and Doubtful sounds offer fantastic kayaking. For families and those with less time, a day paddle on Milford Sound is memorable, albeit a bit busy in terms of additional boating traffic, but you can still escape the crowds and score random seal and penguin encounters. For a genuine wilderness paddling experience, however, we’d opt for Doubtful Sound. This fjord is far more remote, there is no commercial boating there and you can opt for a multi-day paddle with camping that will make you feel like you’re the last person on earth. The best option for both fjords is a guided trip, with all equipment supplied and experienced guides on hand.

With all that snowmelt from the Southern Alps feeding numerous waterways, white-water rafting fans are not left out on the South Island. Famous day rafting trips, such as those down the Kawarau and Shotover rivers near Queenstown, or the Rangitata River just outside Christchurch, provide a huge adrenalin rush. For more experienced white-water kayakers, there are several more remote rivers to explore and enjoy on day- or multi-day paddles, while canoeing families can cruise in inflatable canoes (dubbed ‘funyaks’) down the pristine Dart River.

And there’s more…

If we had 100 pages, it would not be enough to cover all the adventure opportunities on NZ’s South Island. As well as what we’ve listed, there is obviously the island’s epic ski season in winter, with some of the best ski fields in the world found here.

There is also plenty of brilliant camping to be had; just pitch a tent or, if you have a young family, hire a campervan, and explore the South Island for a fantastic and memorable experience. The campgrounds and caravan parks in NZ are very well set up to cater for vehicle-based visitors, with most of them having games rooms/playgrounds and usually located in pristine spots. Most of the natural attractions are very easy to access and there are numerous day walks, lookouts, swimming locations, farm stays and short bike trails (several Great Rides are geared toward family cycling) spread throughout the island to keep both the parents and their young’uns enthralled.

It is the South Island’s fantastic – and brilliantly effective – tourism infrastructure that just adds that cliché of “icing on the cake” to any visit there. And this is the concluding reason – on top of all the other awesome ones in this yarn – for why my next family adventure will be a road-trip through this outdoor wonderland: there’s an adventure waiting for all ages on the South Island – you just need to get over there and it will find you.

Fact File

Getting there: Air New Zealand and Qantas fly to NZ, with Christchurch and Queenstown the two main destinations.

When to go: You can visit the South Island all year with summer and winter especially popular. We’d highly recommend autumn and spring; fewer visitors and still-fine weather make these two seasons the best-kept secret for those looking for a fun (and less crowded) adventure in NZ.

Walking: The Department of Conservation is a treasure-trove of info on all walks through the South Island.

Cycling: The Great Rides of New Zealand is a collection of 23 cycling routes, ranging from challenging MTB trails to road touring options, and there are 13 of these on the South Island. Mountain biking is massive in NZ, with guided and independent options available.

Climbing: For keen mountaineers, the Southern Alps is alpine heaven. For climbing courses and guided climbs, Adventure Consultants, Aspiring Guides and Alpine Guides are all excellent.

Paddling: Whether it is sea kayaking, canoeing, SUP or white-water rafting, the South Island has a waterway for any paddling skill level.

Guided adventures: World Expeditions offers guided walking, climbing and cycling adventures in the South Island.

More info: See Tourism New Zealand for more info on all things South Island.

The post Adventure Isle: A guide to the best of New Zealand’s South Island appeared first on Australian Geographic.

I jumped at the chance to take a four-day trip with World Expeditions, not because I had heard of Flinders Island, it was more because I hadn’t and that intrigued me. So as my research began, I realised I was in for an adventure, a touch of physical exertion and some quality time with my thoughts.

Welcome to Castle Rock

In the early 1930s the first passenger flights left Western Junction in Launceston to King Island and Flinders Island. Now, 90 years later, getting to Flinders Island has not changed all that much. Our single propeller plane is expertly packed and soon six adults feel like children again as our diminutive plane starts bouncing down a green field before quickly becoming airborne and heading north. Checking my phone, it’s apparent I no longer have any phone or internet reception. I put my phone away, knowing whatever happens outside this bubble will have to wait until my return. Landing on Flinders Island we waste little time, heading towards our first adventure, a 3km walk towards Castle Rock. This opening walk on Flinders Island could not be more relaxing. Labelled as a ‘multiple beach walk’, we soak up coastal views and make our way across, firstly, Allports Beach, before continuing north along the coast toward Marshal Beach.

In the build-up to this trip, I googled images of Flinders Island, mainly because I had no idea what to expect from this part of the world. Instantly my computer screen was filled with various images of Castle Rock, but nothing can prepare you for the sheer size and impact of this unmissable landmark. At the opposite end of Marshal Beach, a three-storey high granite boulder feels like it could easily roll into the sea. Up close, this huge standing stone is nestled amongst other lichen-covered granite, a texture I’ve been experiencing all day. To finish the day’s adventure, we spent time exploring and being shown interesting and unexplainable geological rock formations found in the area. 

Too soon for me, we leave the mesmerising rocks and are back in the minibus heading to our little hidden island camp. The camp is home to seven individual clear roof pods, communal area, showers and drop toilets. The whole camp, based in Tanner’s Bay, is beautifully designed with consideration for the island and its natural surroundings. Large enough so you can break away from the group for downtime, with a private beach and bay to explore.

A vertical connection

It’s difficult not to feel a connection to the land when climbing Mt Killiecrankie. At 315m high it’s a steady continuous ascent, not overly steep but with plenty of rock shelves for us to stop and look back on the morning’s progress. Climbing to its summit certainly feels hands on, with plenty of granite to grapple, navigate and work around. Mid-climb we shed our daypacks and hand-carry, so we can squeeze through a small natural granite tunnel placed in our path – making us work somewhat harder for the rewards found at the top. A standout feature of the climb is the large walking areas of granite, often populated with huge boulders. Each varies in shape, creating natural shelters you can sit inside or crawl through. Mt Killiecrankie summit is large enough so we can all sit and rest; with perfect weather it is easy to soak up the faultless image of Killiecrankie’s long sandy bay leading to its tiny township. At the mountain’s trig, the island and Bass Strait unfold around me as far as I can see – to North Palana, then further on to Inner Sister and, finally, Outer Sister Island. To my southeast is what looks like an untouched green lumpy carpet covering Flinders Island. Taking in the views its apparent there are few buildings and homesteads to see, and it comes to no surprise to me that the island’s population is below 1000 people.

With the afternoon still ahead of us, we begin to make our way down the mountain, heading towards the coast. At times huge granite rock formations break the path, and it’s not obvious where I’m heading. I follow our guide Nigel, and on closer inspection see he’s following an indicator line of three pebbles stacked on top of each other leading us back onto the trail. For the rest of the day, I keep seeing these pebble guides and it’s a beautiful reminder of the lack of infrastructure on the island, also speaking to World Expedition’s commitment to Big Adventures, Small Footprints.

Down and off the mountain, it’s a short walk to Stackys Bight Beach, and so far on this trip the only other people I have seen are in my group. We share our lucky feeling that we have this little corner of paradise all to ourselves. Stackys Beach could be on a Mediterranean Coast postcard; crystal-clear water parks up on soft yellow sand that’s pocketed by matching colour granite. I must admit, at the beginning of the day when ‘going for a swim’ was mentioned I was undecided; sometimes it just feels like too much effort when out hiking. These thoughts instantly faded when faced with a deserted beach boasting natural rock arches and calm waters.

Today’s walk has been marked as one of the longer walks on the trip at just over 10km, and the rest of the afternoon is spent following the coastline towards ‘The Dock’. It is a walk that sums up the island for me perfectly; rock-hopping over granite covered in orange lichen, but also broken up by picture perfect sandy bays, with the gently rolling blue sea to my left and on my right shoulder the large grey Mt Killiecrankie that we explored that morning.  

There and back again

There’s an excited, slightly nervous, silence that’s fallen over the inside of the minibus as we leave camp. Today’s destination and return hike to the top of the Strzelecki Peaks has been championed as a definite highlight on this four-day trip. Last night, like every previous evening, our three World Expedition guides briefed us on what to expect from Strzelecki. The hike takes us to the highest point on Flinders, topping out at 756m. From the summit we’d have uninterrupted 360-degree views of not only Flinders Island (the largest in the Furneaux group), but several of surrounding smaller islands, including Cape Barron to the south. Thankfully, we’re told the weather is looking perfect, but are still reminded to always be prepared: “Make sure you bring plenty clothing layers, lunch, and at least two and a half litres of water.”

Related: Best foot forward: A guide to hiking

Travelling south, I begin to question where my adrenaline is coming from, and I realise throwing elevation into any hike gently pushes me outside my comfort zone. As a Grade 4 walk, I know this won’t be easy, but we’ve all been reassured that we are all more than capable to make it to the top and out again. I check my day pack worried I’ve forgotten something, I tell myself everything is in place and to stop fiddling with my camera, for fear of losing the battery and being unable to capture what’s ahead. Looking out on the moving green landscape, I play the game I’ve been enjoying with my fellow adventurers over the last few days: ‘wombat or rock’. The round stubby rock ahead sprouts four short legs and darts off with surprising speed. This time, a definite wombat.

At its base, I stop to admire Strzelecki’s huge granite peaks, which are cut out against a perfect blue sky. The crisp morning has us all quickly moving forward and heading on to the trail. Now just trusting the well-worn path laid out in front of me, a thick woodland makes sure I soon lose sight of today’s high destination. As expected, there’s a lot of physical vertical steps to navigate, and throughout the morning’s climb we are all guided within our comfort levels. Taking our time and happy to regroup when needed, everyone accepting the welcome breaks to refuel and look out on surrounding peaks and blue sea punctured by tiny Furneaux Islands. The climbing effort stretches our little party of eight, slowly making our way up the mountain, at one point passing through Strzelecki’s unique micro cloud rainforests, before finding our way onto the granite saddle just shy of the summit. After a short break we all attempt the final push. As each of us successfully reaches the highest point on the Flinders, it is smiles all round. I know on any other day we could easily have restricted views from this summit, standing in or above cloud cover. But I’m surrounded by the glorious greens of Flinders and a beautiful blue horizon as far as I can see. It is difficult to imagine before the last glaciation melting, 12,000 years ago, you could have walked from this spot to Victoria. Looking south past Cape Barron Island towards Tasmania, the sea certainly looks more translucent our guide points out the average water depth from here to mainland Tasmania is only 60m, and if you look closely enough you can see darker features under the water from the original land before the Furneaux Islands were created.

It’s decided to take the hike down and off Strzelecki at our own comfortable pace; a few of us move on ahead retracing the same route down the mountain. The descent is not overly technical, but at the bottom my legs have certainly felt every part of this mountain route. The feeling of achievement completing this hike is huge. I know today has been a once in a lifetime experience. Speaking with Shelby and Stacks who’ve guided today, we note it’s taken us approximately six hours to complete the distance of just under 6kms. Sure, we took our time and stopped off for lunch, but it’s still an indication of what it takes to complete the climb. I ask the question regarding the demographic of visitors taking on this peak. Stacks tells me it’s always a mix of fitness, last week someone in their 70s confidently got up there and back with no problem at all. The guides want to make sure everyone gets to enjoy this experience, and to prepare people they always go up Mt Killiecrankie first.

Don’t forget your trousers

Our final morning involves packing and getting ourselves together as we say goodbye to our oasis by the sea. It’s not long before we are heading southbound to enjoy the last walk on this trip.

Trousers Point is a short 2km walk that hugs the coastline found on the south of the island, a stone’s throw from Strzelecki National Park. I take my time on this coastal path, the rich blue Bass Strait makes it easy to sit and stop, looking out at multiple islands constantly changing the horizon. And then looking inland to see the towering Strzelecki Peaks that we all conquered the previous day. We make our way to Trousers Point Beach; the guides have saved the best till last on this walk. This deserted bay, with its overhanging trees, perfect sand, dotted with coastal heath and crystal blue waters, is an idyllic spot to end our trip.

On leaving Flinders it’s difficult to describe the positive impact this short trip has had on me; never being to the Furneaux Islands before I had no idea what to expect. Three of Tasmania’s 60 short walks are found on Flinders (Strzelecki, Castle Rock, and Trousers Point), with each having their own degree of challenges and unforgettable breathtaking moments. All the walks over the four days have been expertly guided and supported, feeling safe and sure underfoot. Heading into the trip I knew I would be sharing this experience with other like-minded adventure hungry individuals, but I think none of us anticipated the exceptional exploration and the friendships that Flinders Island gave us. The experience that is still being talked about between us to this day.

See World Expeditions for more info on this and other Australian trekking adventures.

The post Rock of Ages: Walking adventures on Tassie’s Flinders Island appeared first on Australian Geographic.

British Columbia: On the edge of a wild world

From its vibrant capital to its iconic wildlife and rich Indigenous culture, exploring BC’s west coast and Vancouver Island provides a truly immersive experience.

Victoria: the adventurer’s capital

When it comes to a capital city that is most suited to adventurous travellers, Victoria, on Vancouver Island, is an absolute stand-out. The provincial capital of British Columbia is not only living proof a sustainable city is possible, through its many eco-friendly programs and implementations, it is also the gateway to the adventurous side of Vancouver Island and all of its incredible outdoor, wildlife and culture. Best of all, any Vancouver Island adventure begins in the city itself; myriad cycle paths and trails take two-wheeled visitors on a number of tours through this beautiful city, whether it is to visit some (or all?) of its famous craft breweries (yes, there are craft brewery cycle tours!) or restaurants, to cycle the pristine harbourside, or to venture out into Greater Victoria’s historic and culturally rich neighbourhoods, the city’s cycle routes make it easy. 

Venture slightly out of town and you’ll also experience the amazing Malahat Skywalk (this is located on the lands of the Malahat Nation), an elevated walk that takes visitors through coastal rainforest on its way to a 10-storey-high spiral tower lookout that provides all-encompassing views out across the Pacific to the North American west coast. 

For marine-mammal lovers, Victoria is home to Orca Spirit Adventures, which offers a variety of one-day viewing tours, in the Salish Sea, Victoria’s pristine (and very clean) Inner Harbour, and further around on the west side of the island out of the pretty coastal town of Port Renfrew. Thanks to the mild winters of the west coast, the tours run all year round, with plenty of marine life to see in the cooler months, too.

The wild west

Vancouver Island’s west coast is packed full of adventure opportunities, whether that is sea kayaking off the coast at Tofino, exploring nearby Meares Island and its spectacular old-growth forests, or experiencing Pacific Rim National Park. This park hugs the western side of the island and is also home to the famous West Coast Trail, regarded as one of the world’s best multi-day treks –and one of the most popular; advance reservations are a must (this writer has done this trek and can say it’s worth of all it accolades).

The WCT follows an old route used by shipwreck survivors and their rescuers along ruggedly beautiful coastline and coastal forest. It is simply magic; each night’s campsite is on a beach, providing opportunity to view the island’s iconic wildlife, such as whales, orca, black bears and even cougar (Vancouver Island has the world’s largest concentration of cougar). 

An island road-trip like no other

Along with its plethora of adventure activities and thriving Indigenous culture, British Columbia is rightly famous for its wildlife. From black bear and grizzly bear (and the ultra-rare Kermode – or ‘Spirit’ – bear, found only in certain pockets of the Great Bear Rainforest), its population of resident (and transient) orca, variety of whales species, wolves, otter, cougar and – of course – salmon and the bald eagle (among a rich and varied native birdlife population), this province has it all when it comes to wildlife viewing. 

Vancouver Island offers a number of ways in which to view most of these animals (including black bear, orca, whales, coastal wolves, cougar, otter, and eagles) with a short ferry ride across Johnstone Strait to the Great Bear Rainforest on the west coast of the BC ‘mainland’, covering off the big-bopper grizzly (and the Spirit bear). 

Coastal cruising

Leaving Victoria and heading north along the east coast, it is easy to spend a week stopping off along the way to take in a number of wildlife experiences – and cultural ones, as you travel through a number of First Nations territories. The drive up the island’s east coast is a leisurely one, always with one eye peeled for wildlife. A hub for visitors is Campbell River, a fishing city of more than 35,000 that is also a great basecamp for some exploration of nearby Elk Falls Provincial Park, with its waterfalls and old-growth forest, the excellent maritime museum, the many hiking and bike trails surrounding the city.

For paddlers, there is guided sea kayaking, exploring the Discovery Islands archipelago and canoeing, either on a short day trip in Main Lake Provincial Park, or the hard-core, multi-day, 12-lake Sayward Forest Canoe Route. Another must-visit here is the Quinsam River Salmon Hatchery, which plays a role in ensuring natural spawning runs of this fish stay at the appropriate level. Its interpretive centre also informs visitors of the life cycle – and its importance of – salmon to BC’s entire ecosystem.

If there’s one must-do on any visit to Campbell River, it is joining a Homalco Wildlife and Cultural Tours trip, with options covering wildlife and/or Indigenous culture and history. Whether you want to learn more about the First Nations history of this area, via a visit to the Homalco village site of Aupe (and its shy resident black bear), crossing the Salish Sea and thus also having the chance to spot whales, dolphins and orca. Other tours include a full-day adventure tin August that takes visitors to Bute Inlet’s Orford Bay for the annual salmon run – an incredibly vital part of this region’s ecology – where you’ll see bears chowing down on the fish to fatten themselves up before their winter hibernation. It’s simply brilliant.

The cove of dreams

Telegraph Cove, north of Campbell River and situated on the Johnstone Strait, is a historic fishing village that doubles as the staging point for some of the best whale-watching tours in BC. There are a variety of tour types, all exploring Johnstone Strait and the Broughton Archipelago, with the chance to spot some of the orca that frequent the strait, as well as whales, dolphins, otter and sea lions. Kayaking is also popular here, as is fishing. Telegraph Cove’s Whale Interpretive Centre is worth a visit during your stay and the restaurants provide (as you’d expect) the freshest seafood you can imagine.

The land of the bear

Think British Columbia and, invariably, bears will come to mind, and more usually, it’ll be an image of the mighty grizzly bear that pops into your head. Fittingly, then, it is BC where you will find the bears’ spiritual and physical homeland: the Great Bear Rainforest. One of the largest areas of unspoiled temperate rainforest in the world, this 6.4-million-hectare wilderness, stretches from the Discovery Islands in the south of BC, north to the BC-Alaska border. This incredible wilderness is home to a number of BC’s First Nations, as well as all of BC’s native animal icons – black, grizzly and Kermode (Spirit) bears, cougar, wolves, salmon and some ancient (read: over 1000 years old) timber, including western red cedar and spruce trees. So, you might think this is probably a good place to see bears and other wildlife in their native habitat – and you’d be correct…

There are a number of bear-viewing lodges in BC, with some of the most unique being accessible from Vancouver Island, via floatplane out of Campbell River or Port Hardy. The Indigenous-owned Knight Inlet Lodge (accessed via floatplane from Campbell River) is nestled at the end of BC’s longest fiord of the same name, in the southern part of the Great Bear Rainforest. This lodge (along with Great Bear Lodge – more on this lodge below) is unique in the fact it is of a floating construction, and it is an incredible sight from the air as you fly in (usually in one of BC’s aviation icons – a de Havilland Otter floatplane) from Campbell River. 

As well as excellent bear-viewing opportunities (from viewing stands and small skiffs) during the peak autumn season, the lodge offers whale watching, marine tours, kayaking (this writer viewed grizzly bear from a kayak during a four-day stay at the lodge), walking tours and an excellent interpretive tracking tour.

Great Bear Lodge, located further north in the Great Bear Rainforest, on the BC central coast, floats at the head of Smith Inlet, fully immersed in its surrounding marine environment, and moving gracefully with the tides. Accessed from Port Hardy, on the northeast coast of Vancouver Island, via an amazing seaplane flight, Great Bear Lodge is the only one in this valley, making for an exclusive and enriching experience in this wild part of the world. With, literally, no-one else around, it also ensures you’ll see more bear than people – and that has to be a brilliant thing. As part-owner Marg Leehane says, “It’s a luxury to be in a place where we see more bears than people.” And it is…

The viewing platforms at Great Bear Lodge are a mix of covered and open for optimum immersion in the environment while watching the bears chase salmon in the waterways. Boats are also utilised (depending in river heights and salmon locations). As you’d expect, all the meals at the lodge are freshly caught and/or use local produce. 

Inside another world

The recurring theme when describing this part of British Columbia is, without doubt, that of ‘total immersion’. From the in-depth and informative Indigenous-led cultural and wildlife tours, to other outdoor experiences with knowledgeable local guides, to the BC environment itself, visitors to British Columbia have an over-abundance of opportunities to immerse themselves, totally, in one of the world’s most unique regions. 

Falling for Ontario

Embrace vibrant communities, breathtaking wilderness, cultural icons and some of Canada’s best outdoor playgrounds in Ontario’s autumn and winter.

One of the best things about travelling is exploring the roads less travelled, when less people are travelling. With sustainable travel now at the forefront of many travellers’ minds, finding a way to stay away from the madding crowds is front and centre. By going in the less busy seasons of autumn and winter, you are spreading the love and lightening the load for the locals. But one thing that won’t be lessened is Ontario’s striking natural beauty, innovative culinary delights (featuring locally grown foods, thanks to the provinces farmers that results in memorable dining), award-winning wineries, fantastic local artisans, unique traditions, authentic Indigenous experiences, and vibrant multicultural cities.

Ontario might boast spectacular cities such as Ottawa – the capital of Canada – and Toronto, both of which serve up myriad attractions, from museums to historic sights and adventurous pursuits, but it also boasts a plethora of majestic natural landscapes. With more than 250,000 lakes (including pristine Lake Ontario, Lake Huron and Lake Superior), 340 beautiful provincial parks and six national parks, as well as – of course – the world-famous Niagara Falls.

Autumn colours

The change of seasons from summer to autumn (fall) opens up an artist’s palette of colour in the forests of Ontario. Broad swathes of red and orange with a base of verdant green are truly enchanting and a photographer’s delight. After spending time in Toronto, a rich arts, culture and entertainment hub, venture out to discover the city’s little-known islands. 

The 15 Toronto Islands, accessed on a short ferry ride from downtown, are perfect for a stroll to stretch legs after a long-haul flight, or just to get out into the fresh air. Walking around these small islands is easy, as they are all connected by boardwalks – just one example of how the locals (and visitors) love spending time outdoors here.

Under two hours north of Toronto, visit Keene, where you can stay in a private cottage, set in a landscape of tranquil lakes and the forest with its kaleidoscope of colour. You can kayak on the lake to take in nature’s artwork on the banks, or go for a hike among the trees, proudly showing their fall coats.

One of Ontario’s most spectacular landscapes awaits in the 1000 Islands region, home of the Thousand Islands National Park. Go for a cruise to marvel at the lush islands dotting the wide expanse of the St Lawrence River.

Winter wonders

With its crisp temperatures and plethora of outdoor adventures, Ontario is a breath of fresh air. Hiking, biking, ice skating, snowshoeing, dogsledding … the choices are endless.

Easily visited from Toronto, do a full day tour of Niagara Falls. One of Canada’s most popular sights, it’s just as beautiful in winter. Apart from the awe-inspiring views from above, from viewing platforms, or from below in a boat, don’t miss the Journey Behind the Falls tour.  Walk through historic tunnels underground and emerge on the Observation Deck at the base of the 13-story high Horseshoe Falls. You will feel the power of the water, as well as its spray. The charming community of Niagara-on-the-Lake is also worth visiting.

Embrace your inner explorer with a stay in Algonquin Provincial Park. Go snowshoeing near Surprise Lake, or backcountry skiing on trails through snow-laden forest, then relax with a sauna, a good book by the fire, and cocktails. Dog sledding in this pristine environment will be a real treat, and you will even be able to ‘mush’ your own dog team. 

Canada’s capital, Ottawa, also abounds with icy treats. This beautiful city on the Ottawa River, is home to Canada’s government with its three neo-Gothic buildings constructed between 1859 and 1927 standing sentinel on Parliament Hill. There are many wonderful museums, including the National Gallery of Canada and the Canadian Museum of History, with historic ByWard Market, established in 1826, always worth visiting for a beavertail. 

One of Ottawa’s favourite winter activities is to go ice skating on the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Rideau Canal, which links the Ottawa River with Lake Ontario down in Kingston. In winter, the last section of the Canal turns in to the world’s longest naturally frozen skating rink – 7.8 kms. Some locals even skate to work.

Whether you go in autumn or winter, Adventure World has itineraries to suit, including the 13-day Fall Colours of Ontario tour, and the six-day Ontario Winter Adventure.

Manitoba: Canada’s outdoor heartland

This central Canada province is not just the home of the polar bear, it packs in plenty of other natural highlights for you to explore. 

Manitoba is situated bang-on the longitudinal centre of Canada and hosts more than 100,000 lakes and waterways, along with more than 90 parks (including two national parks). As well as a variety of landscapes (from vast prairies to subarctic coastline) and one of Canada’s most amazing capital cities – that’d be Winnipeg – the population of 1.2 million includes a vibrant Indigenous culture, sharing the land with incredible wildlife; polar bears, wolves, beluga whales, bison and loads more roam free here. In short, for those after an escape that combines outdoor activities, culture, wildlife and that sense of  vast open space – Manitoba is your answer. 

A capital idea

Spending more than a few days in Winnipeg is a no-brainer: the capital of Manitoba is a thriving centre of around 750,000 people, and contains a mix of cultural and adventurous activities, whether visiting the city’s famous museums and eateries, or exploring some of the surrounding parks. For those with an outdoor bent, we’d suggest The Forks. This area of Winnipeg sits at the junction of the Assiniboine and Red rivers and includes murals (painted by Indigenous artists), restaurants, and you can take to the river on a boat tour. In winter, skate the Winnipeg Foundation Centennial Trail, the world’s longest naturally frozen ice-skating trail.

For cultural enrichment, it’s hard to go past Qaumajuq, a centre that houses the world’s largest collection of contemporary Inuit art (it is found inside the Winnipeg Art Gallery). ‘Qaumajuq’ translates as “it is bright, it is lit” in Inuktitut. For those who cannot make the journey north to polar bear country, the city’s Assiniboine Park Zoo is a must-visit; hosting a number of Arctic species, such as polar bears (of course – and in an expansive enclosure that accurately replicates their natural habitat), wolves, muskox and other species, plus educational and interactive displays, it is fantastic.  

Cheeky locals and the big lights

Summer and early autumn means you can paddle waters of the Churchill River estuary to spot beluga whales (known as the ‘canaries of the sea’ due to their calls). There is an estimated 58,000 beluga that call Hudson Bay home each year, and around 4000 will spend time in the Churchill River estuary. You can kayak, sit aboard a boat or take a SUP out into the estuary to view them. Besides their unique ‘song’ and personality, beluga differ from other whales by not having fused neck vertebrae, allowing them to tilt their head to the side, leading to some cheeky glances at you in your kayak or boat as they glide past.

There’s a third, close to equally famous, natural resident of Manitoba that is a must-see: the Northern Lights, aka Aurora Borealis. The northern icon of Churchill is, again, one of the best places to be for Northern Lights viewing, with the peak season of February and March. You can see the famous dancing lights throughout Manitoba during certain times of the year as well, but with its northerly location, Churchill provides close to 300 nights of Northern Lights viewing. Yep, that’s impressive.

Where life is wild

Think Manitoba and polar bears instantly spring to mind, with good reason; being able to see these mighty bruins up close at Churchill and its surrounds in the far north is one of, if not the, province’s biggest highlights. However, these big boppers are not the only draw-card for wildlife lovers; those curious – okay, and cute – beluga whales are another, and then there’s bison, wolves, innumerable bird species (in autumn, Manitoba sees tens of thousands of migrating Canadian geese), caribou, moose, black bears, seals and Arctic fox, to name just a few, that populate the province’s wild areas.

Churchill, population around 900, is known as the ‘polar bear capital of the world’, due to its location on the shores of Hudson Bay, and the bears’ gathering there as they wait for the bay to freeze over so they can then hunt seals while living on the sea ice. For optimum viewing, the middle of October until mid/late November is best. There are a number of ways in which to view the bears, from one-day adventures in big tundra vehicles, to multi-day stays at wilderness lodges. 

For something truly unique, you can experience a few days aboard a tundra lodge stay. This comprises huge tundra vehicles joined together, with separate cars for sleeping quarters and dining, along with those for viewing. Fly-in wilderness lodges are brilliant, too, and some allow you to join polar bear hikes, where you are down on the bear’s level, with guides (known as ‘bear whisperers’) who ensure you get close, but you don’t impact the bears’ natural behaviour in any way. It’ll definitely answer that ‘call of the wild’!

Yukon Territory: Where the wild things are

 “The Yukon”. Those two words immediately conjure images of a wild, remote land, and this territory is all that and much, much more.

The top of the world 

“The Yukon”doesn’t just promise so much when it comes to adventure, wildlife, a thriving indigenous culture, unique history, and amazing landscapes, but it delivers. Whether it is viewing the province’s amazing wildlife, hiking into a mountain- and glacier-crowded wilderness, learning more about the First Nations culture and the gold-rush era, experiencing the natural phenomenon that is the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis), or staying at a wilderness lodge, the Yukon offers all an adventurous traveller can dream of. And it does that through every season. Here’s how…

To the Far North

The Yukon Territory is vast. At 482,443 square kilometres, it contains an incredibly diverse mix of landscapes, from mountain ranges and glaciers to huge lakes, immense valleys, and a number of wild waterways. The territory is 80 per cent wilderness, which has resulted in an abundance of wildlife, including iconic species such as grizzly bears, wolves, moose, caribou, bald eagles and more.

The sparse population of around 41,800 residents includes 14 First Nations, resulting in a thriving culture, with the capital of Whitehorse worth a few days of exploration (you can discover the territory’s First Nations culture – and more – at the McBride Museum. On account of the Yukon’s wilderness to people ratio, there’s a huge amount of space for amazing experiences, including the chance to get up close to one of nature’s most famous spectacles…

The best light show on the planet

The Yukon Territory is located below what is known as an “auroral oval” (where the aurora displays most strongly). The ‘bowl’ is a band around the earth that has been ‘pushed’ or moved by strong solar winds toward the dark (night) side of our planet. That solar wind disrupts the earth’s magnetosphere enough that particles from both the wind and the plasma of the magnetosphere ionise after precipitating in the upper atmosphere. The result of that ionisation is that brilliant and always varying emission of different light in the night sky. 

There are two seasons of aurora viewing, kicking off with autumn (August-September; Dawson City is a great location for aurora viewing at this time of year), and then the winter season, from October to April. There are plenty of Northern Lights based tours and activities on offer, with the majority based out of Whitehorse, as well as from some wilderness lodges.

A tale of two seasons in the Yukon

Whether you visit the Yukon for the winter viewing season or the autumn, devoting a number of days to enjoying the Northern Lights’ distinctive displays is an absolute must. The best thing – and this applies to either viewing season – is that you don’t have to while away the daylight hours waiting for the lights; there are myriad activities on offer during the day, too. 

From wildlife viewing and ice-fishing, to sled-dog adventures, fat-bike riding, cultural enrichment, and snow-shoeing – not to mention enjoying the warmth of a wilderness lodge’s fireplace – a visit to the Yukon in autumn and winter can (and should!) include more than the aurora.

This mix of slightly longer nights and shorter days of light make autumn/winter ideal for aurora viewing, thanks to the extended period in which the dancing lights can be viewed. It also opens up the days (after a post-aurora nap) to an array of outdoor activities, including the Yukon icon that is dogsledding. It is an absolute must-do; being dragged on a sled across a vast white-clad landscape, by a team of strong and surprisingly fast huskies (and other sled-dog breeds) is a fantastic way of exploring the more remote parts of this spectacular province. It really is an absolute blast. 

A standout of the Yukon Territory – and this is regardless of the season – is its abundant wildlife – even in winter. You may spot the elusive and shy lynx, along with the chance to see wolves, coyote, and a number of bird species. This doesn’t have to mean camping out in the snow to view these species (and others), either. The Yukon Wildlife Preserve, around 30 minutes’ drive from Whitehorse, includes a dozen species and offers a brilliant opportunity to both view and learn more about some of the Yukon’s native fauna. It is open all year round. 

A welcome like no other

The Yukon Territory is renowned for many things (think: wildlife, wilderness, indigenous culture, gold-rush history, adventure), and this includes the Yukon people’s welcoming nature and hospitality, from campgrounds and hotels to its famous wilderness lodges. For visitors keen on having a ‘Yukon basecamp’ where you can enjoy day-time activities, friendly and knowledgeable hosts, meals cooked utilising native produce, plus prime Northern Lights viewing – all from the one pristine location – a lodge stay is perfect.

Southern Lakes Resort, perched on Tagish Lake, is situated within the traditional territory of the Carcross/Tagish First Nation. During autumn and winter, guests enjoy northern lights viewing, a half-day snowshoeing experience, which is a do-not-miss, and snowmobiling. Oh, and best of all: the lodge has a half-day dogsledding  adventure, too, taking you and your team of Alaskan huskies through the Klondike Gold Rush backcountry. 

From coast to canyons onboard Rocky Mountaineer

Riding the rails of Canada’s renowned Rocky Mountaineer is a feast for the senses.

There’s a bear. Out there. Lumbering along at the edge of the trees, barely registering that a train full of excited people is clitter-clattering by, cameras clicking. 

Other times, passengers on Rocky Mountaineer ‘ooh’ and ‘aah’ at the view over majestic, craggy peaks, ethereal forests and tumbling rivers needling down rock-hewn gorges as the train passes over bridges that surely tested the engineering know-how of the track’s builders back in the 1880s.

That first, vital Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) link from coast to coast in Canada led to some of Canada’s best-known luxury hotels being built in locations that are just as awe-inspiring today as they were back then. In fact, the owner of the CPR, William Cornelius Van Horne, selected the location for the legendary Banff Springs Hotel – now the Fairmont Banff Springs – himself, saying “If we can’t export the scenery, we’ll import the tourists.”

He built it, and the tourists did come, and are still coming. Many of them on Rocky Mountaineer.

Climb Onboard Rocky Mountaineer 

One of the best-known tourism ventures in Canada, Rocky Mountaineer set off on its inaugural trip in 1990. It was a two-day, all-daylight journey through Western Canada and the Canadian Rockies, and the rest, is rail history. 

The single route from those early days has blossomed into four routes: three in Western Canada, and one in Southwest United States. ‘First Passage to the West’, runs between Vancouver and Banff with an overnight stop in Kamloops. ‘Journey through the Clouds’ will take you between Vancouver and Jasper – also with an overnight stop in Kamloops, and ‘Rainforest to Gold Rush’ links Vancouver and Jasper, with overnight stops in both Whistler, and Quesnel. 

The newest route is the ‘Rockies to the Red Rocks’ service, the first in the USA, that runs between Denver in Colorado and Moab in Utah, with an overnight stay in Glenwood Springs. 

While the vistas on the routes are extraordinary, the service and amenities are equally as impressive. In Canada, guests can choose between two different styles of train coaches – GoldLeaf Service or SilverLeaf Service. 

GoldLeaf Service, which was first launched in 1995, continues to be a highlight for Rocky Mountaineer passengers, who love soaking up the spectacular views of the Canadian Rockies through the striking curved-glass windows on the top of the bi-level train car. It is the perfect pairing; views from luxurious seating upstairs, while gourmet dining awaits on the lower level, which also has large glass windows to allow the views in while you dine on delectable meals.

There is an exclusive outdoor viewing platform downstairs in GoldLeaf Service, which is wonderful to breathe in the mountain air and feel the forest-tinged breeze on your face. It is also excellent for photographers.

SilverLeaf Service has panoramic windows, with guests relaxing in their comfortable seats, with gourmet meals and beverages brought right to their seats. 

Gourmet Delight 

When on Rocky Mountaineer, guests are not just seeing Canada, with its wildlife, majestic scenery and idyllic lakes, they are tasting Canada, which has an embarrassment of riches when it comes to produce. Rocky Mountaineer’s Executive Chef, Kaelhub Cudmore, refreshed the culinary program for 2023 and 2024, saying: “On Rocky Mountaineer, you can expect to be fed bright, fresh food that speaks to the journey you’re on.”

Vancouver Island born and raised, Cudmore had a passion for the culinary industry at a young age. He has a deep appreciation for food and travel, developed organically as he worked in various locations offering everything from salmon fishing to remote heli-skiing. 

His resume is impressive, having worked at Victoria’s iconic Fairmont Empress Hotel, spending almost 10 years at Clayoquat Wilderness Resort as it blossomed into the exclusive Relais & Chateaux property it is today, and working as a leader in Seabourn’s Thomas Keller program. The luxury cruise line made quite a splash with Keller’s innovative dining at sea program, and there is no doubt Cudmore learned a lot about preparing and presenting gourmet meals in moving spaces.  

Cudmore says he is an “ingredient-driven chef,” placing high-quality local ingredients at the forefront of his menu, supporting local agriculture and artisans in his kitchen. 

The talented Executive Chef’s aim was to create a connection between food and land, reflecting the landscapes guests see through the glass, and bringing it inside onto their plates. Local products that you might taste on the menu include Alberta beef short rib, Dungeness crab stuffed ravioli, and Lois Lake steelhead as well as verjus from Vancouver Island, handmade pasta from Port Moody, bee pollen from Surrey, and tasty macarons from Vancouver’s Granville Island.

Rocky Mountaineer’s wine list also reflects the Canadian landscape, with guests able to experience a selection of wine from British Columbia’s most respected and revered wineries.

Cudmore says: “The new menu is based on the idea of telling a story. Each journey has its own menu that really features the area it travels through. There has been a lot of research: riding the train to express the terrain we travel through.”

Authentic Journeys

The only thing that is better than doing Rocky Mountaineer is adding other adventures to it. Adventure World has a number of itineraries that include Rocky Mountaineer, such as the seven-night ‘Authentic Canadian Rockies’ and ‘Sip and Savour Canadian Flavours’ itineraries. The seven-night ‘Authentic Canadian Rockies’ itinerary starts in vibrant Vancouver, where you can opt to rest or explore some of the harbour cities highlights, from Capilano Suspension Bridge Park to a foodie tour of Granville Island Market, or perhaps a bike tour through Stanley Park.  

Day two you’ll board the legendary Rocky Mountaineer, travelling in GoldLeaf Service, marvelling at the landscape skipping past the windows as you socialise with other passengers and sit enthralled as the team of onboard hosts share rich, historic stories of the rail line, geological marvels, communities, and Indigenous peoples along the routes. The train will take you into the heart of BC, with highlights including Hell’s Gate in the Fraser Canyon, and the steep terrain along the Thompson River. 

After a night in Kamloops, enjoy your beautiful glass dome, the company, and the gourmet meals on board as you venture into Alberta, following the North Thompson River through the Monashee and Cariboo Mountains and then into Jasper. 

Once off the train, you’ll spend several days exploring Jasper, Lake Louise and Banff, before finishing your trip in Calgary. Highlights include a mountain -top cooking lesson, wildlife viewing in Jasper NP, journeying down the Icefields Parkway, taking in the beauty of cobalt blue lakes such as Moraine Lake, Bow Lake, Emerald Lake and Lake Minnewanka. 

The ’Sip and Savour Canadian Flavours’ itinerary is heaven on a platter for foodies, with local tastes and flavours, from beavertails and poutine to fine wines and cider. The 11-night itinerary sees you travelling on Rocky Mountaineer for two days in SilverLeaf Service, flying in a float plane and cruising to Victoria by ferry to experience some of Western Canada’s finest culinary adventures including riding to a western cookout by horseback or covered wagon. Add idyllic lakes, wildlife, soaring mountains and striking glaciers, and you have the experience of a lifetime. 

William Cornelius Van Horne was right. Tourists would most definitely come to see this beautiful part of the world. And Rocky Mountaineer plays a big role in that.

Ultimate Canada: There and back again with Adventure World

Adventure World has been sending travellers to Canada for over forty years, let its destination experts create an authentic Canada trip for you – 1300 263 055 www.adventureworld.com.au

For more information, Adventure World’s online Canada portal has all the info on the amazing experiences it offers in this awesome country.

The post Canada: Where adventure never ends appeared first on Australian Geographic.

But there is so much more to Africa than her national parks and array of creatures great and small. There are wine regions with blankets of vines with a backdrop of mountain peaks. There are beaches, surf breaks, Victoria Falls, rivers where hippos soak and thousands of birds flock, the timeless sands and stark landscapes of Namibia and ancient cities in Egypt and Morocco that turn back time. Then there are wonderful places and ways that you can give back to this sun-drenched land … through conservation and Travelling with a Purpose.

New adventures

Adventure World knows Africa, after 40 years of touring, discovering and learning about this continent, and has put all its experience into planning a new range of itineraries that fit the company’s ethos of responsible travel and culturally immersive experiences that make a difference to the local communities, and help conserve wildlife.  

In the Greater Kruger region, guests on the ‘Authentic Southern Africa’ itinerary will visit the Kapama Game Reserve, bordering Kruger National Park. Its anti-poaching units are crucial to conservation of species in the greater Kruger region. Education is key to conservation, and as part of Kapama’s community development program, guests can visit Makwetse School during school term, see their Eco Village, exchange with the students and teachers, and can provide additional support via their Pack for a Purpose program.

The emphasis is on gorillas in the ‘Authentic Gorillas and Masai Mara’ itinerary where a visit to Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park includes access to the Ellen de Generes campus of the Dian Fossey Fund. Guests will learn how gorillas are tracked and how important this is to their survival. Trekking through forest to see these mighty primates in their own environment will be a spine tingling experience. This itinerary will also take guests to The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust in Nairobi. This centre raises and reintegrates orphaned elephants and rhinos, and is very active in anti-poaching measures. 

The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is also on the itinerary of ‘Authentic East Africa’, which showcases mind-blowing scenery. In Tarangire National Park stay in a lodge fringed by baobab trees and marvel at the sheer amount of elephants in the park – one of the largest concentrations in Africa. Stupendous views await at a lodge perched on the rim of Ngorongoro Crater, a conservation area home to over 25,000 large animals.

A different Africa

This land of plenty is home to many cultures and great contrasts. Away from the plains of the Serengeti and Masai Mara, explore a different part of Africa, one of history going back thousands of years. Adventure World’s ‘Authentic Morocco’, ‘Authentic Oman’, and ‘Authentic Egypt and Jordan’ itineraries weave timeless tales through stunning landscapes, and will do it the Adventure World way, engaging with communities conserving the past, culture and traditions. 

Egypt’s archaeological treasure will be uncovered with Adventure World’s local guides, many of whom are qualified Egyptologists. Guests will also be able to see a huge range of ancient artefacts on a visit to the soon-to-open Grand Egypt Museum, where precious and priceless items are to be presented for the world to see. 

Adventure World Authentic Africa trips are all for independent travellers and can be customised to suit any style. For those itching to get off the beaten track, consider Adventure World’s 11-day self-drive trip in Namibia. After meeting an Adventure World representative, who will deliver your hire car and go through the itinerary and all the information about the trip, you can set off knowing you have the company’s concierge service should you need it. Namibia is known for its striking landscapes, from the Namib Desert, to Damaraland, the stark beauty of the Etosha Salt Pan, the dunes of Sossusvlei, and Etosha National Park, home to a variety of unique and rare wildlife including desert-adapted elephants, lions, rhinos and giraffes. Travellers will learn about the indigenous communities of Namibia, including the Herero, Himba and San people, with community visits to available in Damaraland and Okahandja. 

Several properties, such as Onguma Tented Camp, Ongava Lodge and Mowani Mountain Lodge are all located on conservancies and are great examples of community-based conservation and sustainable tourism.

The connections you make to Africa, its people, and its wildlife, will resonate long after your journey home. But know this, it won’t be long before Africa tugs on your heartstrings again, and you will long to return.

To find out more about Adventure World’s new Authentic Africa itineraries, visit adventureworld.com.au

The post Africa: An authentic experience in the wildest of worlds appeared first on Australian Geographic.

For me, it was part of what ended up being – over a week in the Shoalhaven – the ultimate re-boot. Global pandemic, crowded city, busy home-life and work disappear over the five days we spend exploring this area, giving myself and Liz (both coincidentally ‘country kids’ with that unique connection to regional Australia) that immemorable reminder that nature will always trump industry – and it’s a hell of a lot more fun, too.

Southern belle

The Shoalhaven region covers from pretty Shoalhaven Heads in the north, across to the rugged ramparts of the Morton escarpment near Kangaroo Valley and North Durras to the south. It is, really, the epitome of an adventure playground, with more than 100 beaches, some mighty waterways (the Shoalhaven and Clyde rivers), an even mightier Jervis Bay, and 70 per cent of its total area comprising national parks and state forests. We are exploring the popular Jervis Bay and surrounds (encompassing Huskisson, Vincentia, Boodee NP and more) and the south-eastern part of Morton National Park on this week-long adventure, with the seemingly over-sized promise of hiking, paddling, climbing, mountain biking and cultural enrichment ahead of us. 

As it turned out, that word ‘over-sized’ doesn’t come close: that promise was more than fulfilled, with this writer reaching the end of the week exhilarated and exhausted but having only really scraped the surface in terms of the sheer amount of adventure and exploration the Shoalhaven offers visitors. It was a sacrifice we were more than happy to make again…

Straight to the edge

We, literally, hit the road running on day one, tackling a short drive from our accommodation at Huskisson north around Jervis Bay to the pretty village of Currarong, on the northern side of the Beecroft Peninsula. Here, we find what has to be one of the best short bushwalks in the region: Abrahams Bosom Walking Track and the roughly one-hour-return sojourn along the Wreck/Coomies walk, passing coastal heath and numerous viewpoints back across the coastline, to the natural wonder that is Gosang’s Tunnel. 

This tunnel bores through the headland for around 20 metres – and requires a slightly bent-over shuffle to negotiate – but the location and view at the other end make that effort more than worth it. Coming out of the tunnel you’re deposited on the edge of some of the famous sea cliffs of the Shoalhaven, overlooking the thundering Tasman Sea as it pounds against the rocks below. The walk – and viewpoint – is a microcosm of the region’s natural wonder and the best bang for your bucks for visitors

We amble around the large rock-shelf that juts east from the tunnel entrance on the cliff-side for a while, enjoying the view and the fact we are so fortunate to have it all to ourselves. It’s with some reluctance that we re-enter the tunnel for the return journey back to the carpark, but a reluctance muted somewhat by what we have coming up next…

Two wheels, trails galore and the energy of youth

The Shoalhaven is made for bicycles. I decide that not more than a few minutes after we arrive on our first day and spot the excellent multi-use path linking Huskisson to Vincentia. That impression of two-wheeled friendliness is amplified after we arrive at Superbowl, one of the many mountain bike trails in the area, to meet Nick Smee, President of South Coast United Mountainbikers. SCUM, as the club is known (yep, I agree, it’s a brilliant acronym) was established in 2004 and currently has around 170 members. Joining Nick to show us around is Grant Turner and a bunch of the club’s Academy riders, including Academy coach Lynne Vaughan. 

The 8km loop of Superbowl is one of three MTB trails (the other two main MTB trails are Coondoo, at 11km, and Butterfly, at6km) in the Callalla Bay area (accessed off Forest Road, the main route to Callalla Bay from the Princes Highway). For those looking for MTB trails closer to Nowra, Cabbage Tree Lane – a 6km loop – offers a brilliant beginner/kids’ experience just west of the town. The club, with NSW Forestry, manages these trails.

Superbowl is just magic, with its mix of undulating singletrack, berms and drop-offs, flowing between big trees and lush green ferns. And the kids from the Academy (a near-equal mix of male and female riders) showcase it at its best, with skills that are a credit to the Academy program. No matter how much ‘faster’ I ask these young guns to go, they just keep getting quicker again; big berms, drop-offs and jumps are confidently tackled each and every time at increasing speeds. It’s impressive stuff and a fitting result of Lynne and the club’s focus on not only the riding, but the social side of MTB.

“I am constantly proud of how focused and dedicated they are to their sport and they always bring 100 per cent to training,” Lynn says. “They are forming lifelong friendships with a mutual love of bike riding. Their achievements are a credit to their hard work but it’s not about winning or being first (a nice side effect) but the journey they have along the way – learning independence, resilience, making friends, having fun and building lifelong wellbeing strategies.” It’s hard not to agree with that.

It’s hard not to see the appeal of a weekend road-trip down here to this part of the Shoalhaven just to sample these trails – something that Nick reckons is already popular with visitors from Sydney and Canberra – and it’d be an easy task to convince the family to tag along, too. here just to sample these trails – something that Nick reckons is already popular with visitors from Sydney and Canberra – and it’d be an easy task to convince the family to tag along, too. 

“It’s really well known, this area, now,” he says. “Each weekend we’ll always have cars parked here and out at Butterfly. For people who don’t want to ride, they’re in one of the accommodations around here and they can spend a weekend at the beach.

“Those that ride, can get out and have a good ride. Ride in the morning, go and surf in the afternoon; it’s a good weekend away.” Those words were no sooner out of Nick’s mouth then I was mentally jotting in a date for a return.

Water world

The sun is teasing us through the dawn clouds at Iluka Beach, turning the early morning light blue, then purple, then later gold as Jervis Bay Kayaks guide Terry Davis, Liz and I sort out our sea kayaks on the shore. We’re heading out for an exploratory paddle across this southern part of Jervis Bay, toward Bowen Island, a small but pristine bump that sits just off the edge of the Bherwerre Peninsula, the bay’s tree-crowded, beach-lined southern ‘heads’ – a stark contrast to the steep sea cliffs of Point Perpendicular on the bay’s northern heads. 

Water, to me as a south coast boy, has always been a source of connection to where I grew up, and this paddle magnifies that. It’s super-early as there’s no wind thanks to the shelter provided by the peninsula’s landmass, and the bay’s famous white sand and that muted morning light fire up the water into a glassy turquoise mirror. 

When we reach the north-easterly curve of Bherwerre Peninsula, past Murray Beach Boat Ramp, we are in less sheltered open water and it is brilliant – and perfectly timed with the sun now fully risen and turning the rocky outcrops on the southern end of Bowen Island a rich gold, as the ocean’s wave crash against them. The wind hits us here a bit, but paddling through the slightly choppy water, if anything, brings a closer connection to this magic location; nothing beats that cliché of wind, salt and water in your face when you’re on the water to describe that feeling of total immersion in your environment.

We pause and shelter behind the island for a little while, hoping to spot some of the island’s resident penguins, but they’re nowhere to be seen this morning; most likely they are out foraging for food. That missed wildlife opportunity is soon forgotten, though, as we head back toward Iluka Beach.

Wet and wild

I paddle ahead to photograph Liz and Terry as we re-cross the open water and, in between getting to where I need to be, and turning the kayak around, I miss the turtle that Terry and Liz spot. I do, however, have a nice, up-close-and-personal encounter with a surprised seal that bobs up in front of my kayak, emitting a short bark of surprise before diving down again. It’s another of the many reminders that, in this still-wild bay, we’re just short-term passers-by – but more than happy to be ‘just’ that. This is something Jervis Bay Kayaks owners Bart and Sarah Malecki know after a number of years paddling here, with Bart mentioning numerous whale encounters, and one amazing experience with the bay’s resident dolphins.

“Probably the best experience I’ve had; I’ve been surfing my kayak on Cave Beach with no one around – just me and the kayak, little bit of surf – and I was joined by a pod of a dozen dolphins,” he laughs. “They were literally surfing waves right next to me for an hour. 

“I’d surf it in, punch back out in my kayak, they’d come back and sort-of frolic around me. And when I caught another wave, they’d catch it with me. We did that together for an hour; me and a dozen dolphins having a surf at Cave Beach with no other human in sight for an hour.”

After the brief seal and turtle catch-up, we keep paddling back toward Iluka Beach. Unsurprisingly, we take our time on this return leg; that connection is strong between the bay’s water and us. The wind has come up a bit more, but Terry tucks us in close to shore and we pass the pretty natural rock formation of Hole in The Wall (also accessible via a walking track from Jervis Bay Road) and a few early beachgoers enjoying the morning. As Iluka Beach looms closer, Terry convinces us (well, it didn’t take much) to land briefly on a section of beach further around the bay. He, like us, doesn’t seem in any hurry to re-join civilization, even though in this part of the world, even that is no hard task. After a wander in the sand – and more ogling at that brilliant water-colour from shore – we jump back in for a short push back to our put-in point. 

All too soon, it’s over, well, sort of… For this latent sea kayaker, this trip’s combo of pristine marine environment, a brilliant paddling route and knowledgeable guide has reawakened the passion for ocean-borne journeys. It’s easy to see why Bart rates it as the “quintessential Jervis Bay experience” for paddlers of all skill levels.

More Shoalhaven water fun

The oft-calm waters found in different parts of Jervis Bay, plus pretty Currambene Creek, allow Stand Up Paddle-boarding to thrive. This popular outdoor activity is also very easy to learn, confirmed by the pretty awesome guarantee from Huskisson’s SUP with George, run by George Payne, that he’ll have you up on a board, paddling and enjoying the local marine environment, on your first try. 

For George, opening up a SUP hire and guide business (he also hires out boats and fishing gear, kayaks and bikes, and grew up working on the local tour boats) in the Shoalhaven region was a no-brainer, he tells me when I catch up with him in the afternoon after the kayaking. Running the business combines his love for the local marine environment and 10 years of SUP experience (he’s Academy of Surfing Instructors SUP qualified), with the chance to showcase it at a leisurely pace. The guided SUP tours are usually around 1.5 hours on the water the Currambene Creek tours cover around 3km of paddling, at a nice leisurely pace. It’s the variety of conditions and environments that mean George can offer a number of locations and tours, as he explains.

“I’ve got about eight different tours,” he explains. “All of which are very weather dependent; we get different conditions on many different days. My common one is we operate in Currambene Creek, because you can normally escape that northerly summer wind, which is nice. And yes, we can go out into the bay, as well.”

A highlight for George when guiding and teaching future SUP paddlers – and confirmation he really does have one of the best jobs in the world – is the chance to spot the abundant marine life, with some of his launch sites for creek trips ideal for spotting huge stingrays – “the size of car bonnets; like, they’re huge” – through to giant flathead fish up to one metre in length.

After leaving George I reflect on the conversations I have had with both him and Bart regarding the bay, its surrounds, and the immense appeal of its environment. Being immersed in the Shoalhaven’s marine wonderland has enabled a stronger-than-imagined reconnection with my south coast roots and made me realise what I always scoffed at as an ignorant city-based ideal of a ‘seachange’ is the reality here – and one worth experiencing, even if only for a few days. 

The closest connection in the Shoalhaven

It is the following morning – another Shoalhaven belter of the sun rising slowly over the bay – that we catch up with the lads from Djiriba Waagura at the Jervis Bay Maritime Museum. Matt, Raymond, and Raymond’s younger brother Bobby sit down for a chat and it’s not long before us ‘south coast boys’ figure out we’ve got a connection through mutual friends from further down the coast (Moruya, Batemans Bay, Narooma, Eden) where I grew up. It’s a funny twenty minutes that proves the world really is small. Speaking of connections, and one that is incredibly strong; Raymond and Matt’s unique – and ancient – connection comes through their family group’s heritage (they originated from La Perouse) as artefact makers, and it is something the two are incredibly proud to continue. 

The welcome to country ceremony is an enriching experience, with Raymond explaining the significance of it to all of us, in terms of it allowing us to connect with our ancestors via a gateway through the smoke to help dispel any sadness or anger we may be holding inside. The term ‘spiritual’ gets overused in today’s world, but in the case of the smoking ceremony, it truly does apply.

The walk is led by Raymond and he takes us through a winding path that covers off a variety of different plants, their significance to his culture, and their uses today, referring a number of times back to what their elders (from the nearby Wreck Bay community) have taught them. Later, toward the end of our walk, we encounter Matt, who has a special treat for us in the form of a native sarsaparilla drink to taste.

“For us here on the coast; that’s our most important medicine.” Matt says. “What it does, it’s a boost to your immune system, to the point where, if you’ve got an infection, it will keep away the common cold… It’s a super-medicine.” 

The walk is enriching and it’s a bit of a bummer to say goodbye to the lads once we return to near where we started, close to a colourful cabin that is associated with Raymond’s grandfather, Uncle Laddie Timbery, who was a highly respected elder and a rich source of knowledge for Raymond. For another source of cultural understanding Djiriba Waagura runs on-country cultural camps, as Matt explains.

“We run on-country cultural camps where we invite people on the country and we invite them into our world,” he says. “When they come and stay with us, we welcome them as family, and they learn some of our cultural practices and we collect abalone. All the different shellfish, kippies, Sydney cockles – we call them ‘bimblers’ in our language.

“We take young people on expeditions through the bush where we’re following the track the old people did – our song lines. And we’re able to take them to all the sacred sites where our old people have been for a long time…”

Climb a river, walk a comeback story

Robert Crow, of Climb Nowra, is the epitome of a climber. Lean, strong and with a calm demeanour that always seems, to people who don’t understand the appeal of climbing, to be the polar opposite mind-set to what they think must be required to scale vertical cliffs and snowclad mountains. It is this calm demeanour, however, that is most welcome today as he stands with a slightly nervous Liz and starts the process of introducing her to the essentials of climbing, in what is a very unique climb location, right above the beautiful Shoalhaven River. 

Yep, for those who think of “the Shoalhaven” and “climbing”, invariably the awesome cliffs at Point Perpendicular spring to mind – and with good reason: this part of the south coast is a climbing Mecca, offering exposed routes over the ocean, and views back across Jervis Bay. What is less well-known to the larger climbing public is the fantastic climbing on offer along the banks of the Shoalhaven River, just inland from the Nowra bridge. 

We first met Rob at his place and chatted about climbing philosophies and locations around the world before he sorted Liz out with her gear and we set off to start her fast-tracked introduction to climbing, mindful of Rob’s philosophy of climb tuition, and what he has in store for Liz this afternoon.

“I want to take people who really feel it and care for it… and understand the value of it and build the system,” he affirms. “So, I would start from scratch and build the system and have that person belaying me before the end of the day.”

And that’s how it pans out. The location, on the river’s southern side, is a cliff-wall with a number of bolted routes, and a view over a flat embankment below (complete with family of grazing roos), that looks pretty formidable at first glance. But lots of quiet assurance and guidance from Rob sees Liz scaling her first climb route with aplomb, taking her time, listening to Rob’s advice as he belays her, and topping out above the tree-line with what must be a cracking view across the river valley.

Then, the pair accomplish the second part of his system-building chat; Liz jumps on belay and Rob scampers up the same route with all the finesse garnered from decades of climbing experience. Liz is pumped after the climb and we’re both gob-smacked when Rob starts listing the numerous other climb routes along both sides of the river. This one is my favourite though, as Rob says that instead of looping from North Nowra, across the bridge and through the back of town to this climb, you could, instead, paddle a canoe across from the northern side, tie-up below, and be at the crag in 15 minutes – epic!). 

The next day is an incredible contrast: from the lush valley of the Shoalhaven River, we are up on the fire-scorched plateau of the Budawangs mountain range, inland from Milton (30 minutes’ drive south of Huskisson), tailing Chris Zinon of Big Nature Adventures along a bushwalking track. This country, near the borders of Budawang and Morton national parks, is rugged, and up here away from the green coastal valley we’d passed through, it seems even more so with a lot more of the region’s prolific sandstone exposed after the bushfires of December 2019/January 2020. Looking at the regrowth, you’d think it had gone ‘okay’ through the fire. That is, until you see the blackened banksia, and scorched soil. 

If there’s any good in the bad ‘news’, it is that we get to see a lot more of the Shoalhaven landscape than usual, with it denuded of vegetation. And it’s a belting view from our final viewpoint looking over the twisting valleys that mark the routes of a number of waterways, including the Clyde River. Further, The Castle – a bushwalker’s favourite – can be seen, along with other peaks.  

The Shoalhaven: where there’s never enough time

It’s the final morning. I have not long returned from a swim in Moona Moona Creek, right across the road from our Bay Blu apartment, and am now sitting alone at the back of the Jervis Bay Wild cruiser, enjoying the view of the bay’s striking green/blue water. It’s the end of a huge week and I am still trying to get my head around the sheer amount of adventure, fun, good food, great people and amazing locations we’ve experienced and the chance to reconnect after too long in the city. 

Breaking from my thoughts is a shout when we reach the incredible cliffs and rock-stacks of Point Perpendicular, on the bay’s north-eastern side. Soon after, we’re joined by a bunch of marine comedians – Jervis Bay’s resident dolphin pod – with their frolicking and surfing of the boat’s bow wave. That’s brilliant, but it’s their natural, knowing smile that catches my attention most; it’s as if they’re laughing at just how lucky they are to live in this spectacular region. And I can’t really blame them for that; I’d be laughing, too.

The Shoalhaven Fact File

Getting there: The Shoalhaven region is about two hours from Sydney, via Princes Highway, and two hours from Canberra 

Accommodation: There are plenty of accommodation options in the Jervis Bay area, ranging from caravan parks to apartments to holiday house rentals. Aus Geo ADVENTURE stayed at the Bay Blu Apartments, booked via Jervis Bay Holiday Rentals. 
See www.jervisbayrentals.com.au

Kayaking: Jervis Bay Kayak and Paddle Sports offers a range of tours and lessons, from sit-on-top tours to sea kayak adventures. It also offers sea kayak and SUP tuition, and gear hire. See www.jervisbaykayaks.com.au

Cultural tours: Djiriba Waagura offers the two tours, Timbery Tour (as featured in this story) that runs for two hours, and Waraigala Badha in Nowra as well as other short tours, plus cultural camps. See www.djiribawaagura.com

Freediving: Woebegone Freedive offers courses on freediving in the waters of Jervis Bay. It also has guided beach- and boat-based snorkelling adventures, kids’ courses and private tuition. See www.woebegone.com.au

Climbing: For excellent climbing tuition, Rob Crow of Climb Nowra is the go-to. Rob knows all the crags exceptionally well. See www.climbnowra.com

SUP: SUP With George offers eight different SUP tours, as well as SUP, kayak, bike, boat and fishing gear hire. If you want to learn this activity, George and his instructors will have you on the water before you know it. See www.supwithgeorge.com.au

Bushwalking: For bushwalking in the area’s national parks, give Chris from Big Nature Adventure a shout. See www.bignatureadventures.com

Food: Huskisson has a number of eateries, including the Kanpai Japanese Restaurant, the Huskisson Hotel, as well as cool cafes, such as Pilgrims, 5 Little Pigs and Salty Joe’s. 

More info: For all things Shoalhaven, the excellent www.shoalhaven.com website is an absolute must for planning itineraries, finding accommodation, the latest news on festivals and more.

The post Nature calls: Visit the Shoalhaven for an elemental reconnection appeared first on Australian Geographic.

As we all know, luck is a fickle thing… much like the reality of riding the North Shore, as I was to discover. Riding with me would be ex-Olympian Andreas Hestler and Wade Simmons himself, so this experience was on a far more epic scale than my idea of just “going for a ride”.

When I first met Wade at Rocky Mountain Bikes’ HQ in northern Vancouver and said I was here “for a factory tour, and a bit of a ride”, his response was: “Do you wanna do a tour, or do you wanna ride?” I must’ve missed the emphasis on “ride” and it’s meaning to the man known the Godfather of Freeride mountain biking.

At this point (in hindsight) I should have also asked if I wanted to put myself on the mental and physical edge for a few hours, negotiating by far the most challenging trails I had ever ridden, before returning (hopefully, in one piece) to drag myself around the amazing Rocky Mountain Bikes factory.

I was 20kg over my riding weight and had done minimal riding over the past couple of years due to several lower-leg injuries. Yet here I was, about to embark on my first ride on a 29er (at that time, the first-generation Rocky Mountain Instinct), replete with brakes set up North American style (as in, reverse to how we run them in Oz). I had been asked by the mechanic regarding brake setup but had not listened properly and just said “they’d be okay”. Something I would very much regret. In short, I was incredibly, exceptionally, unprepared for what was coming. I should have piked out, right there and then, but of course I didn’t. What a fool…

A Shore thing

Vancouver’s North Shore is held in near-mythical regard by the world’s mountain bikers. This area includes three mountains – Fromme, Cypress and Seymour – and myriad trails, ranging from expert black diamond-rated, to accessible green-rated trails.

The North Shore’s steep, forested slopes, deep ravines, fallen trees, and rocky outcrops that include some impressively high drop-offs meant, in the early days, trail builders had to innovate. The result is a trail type – and to an extent, a riding style – that has become synonymous with “The Shore”.

Trails in the area include hand-built (and narrow) timber bridges, fallen logs utilised as ravine and creek overpasses, and timber “ladders” (off the ground) that take riders on a twisting ride high above the forest floor. Add in natural obstacles such as said boulder drop-offs and an endless supply of slippery tree roots and fallen timber, and you have highly technical trails that are a considerable challenge. It’s here that Wade cut his teeth, on the way to becoming one of the world’s best riders.

It’s easy to see how riding in this region would up your skill level to world-class – and why it is used by Rocky Mountain when developing its bikes. Just a 20-minute drive from the Rocky Mountain factory and another 10 minutes getting bikes and gear sorted saw us plunge instantly into a darkly shadowed, steep and sharply undulating trail.

It was, I found out, one of Wade’s favourites; for me, it was one of the scariest. I announced my “intermediate” riding skills pretty much in the first five minutes when one of the riders in front of me stopped suddenly, causing me to grab the brakes, and thanks to the levers being reversed and me grabbing an unintentional huge handful of front brake, over I went. Andreas was behind me and asked if I was okay – which wouldn’t be the last time he asked that question – and, besides a mouthful of dirt and grass, I was.

That was pretty much the trend of the day: the Instinct I was riding was bullet-fast, albeit probably too fast for my skillset to keep up with. The Instinct was simply brilliant, with its manoeuvrability and forgiving handling keeping me (mostly) upright; tall drop-offs and quick descents and climbs were easily nailed – I just had to hang on.

Living history

During our ride Wade and Andreas stopped often, both so I could catch up and to show me some of the original bridges and log crossings that had been built back in the early days of trail building. Some of them seemed ludicrously high but, having seen a raft of videos on riders such as Wade and other North Shore guns, I knew they were rideable. Just not by me.

A small amount of climbing up rock-strewn sections tempered the mad downhill pace on occasion, which was further slowed with a bit of hike-a-bike as we scrambled over huge logs or jumped across creek beds to link up with other trails on our way down the mountain.

For me, the three-hour ride was spent in a near-constant state of fear, boosted by a huge adrenalin rush midway as we tackled the most beautifully flowing, loam-padded piece of singletrack I have ever ridden. Here, I couldn’t stop grinning; the Instinct was fantastically quick, and I was getting my head around the reversed brake levers as I swooped around huge tree ferns, rolled semi-smoothly over bloody steep – and large – boulders, and managed to be only 10 seconds behind the group at the end of that section.

For a brief, madly exultant moment, a thought passed through my mind: Was I actually taking the first steps to becoming a Shore rider already? Well, as it turned out…

The final act

Our last trail section was a step up from the previous flowing lines, although not quite as daunting as the first third of the ride. But, I was still just hanging on for most of the time, relying on the bike and some luck, with one slightly scary crash my only down-point – until, that is, the end.

I am sure Wade and Andreas have seen some pretty amusing crashes during their respective competitive careers, and as Rocky Mountain ambassadors, but I doubt they’ve seen a head-over-handlebars crash executed with quite as much finesse as mine at the end of a ride. I had been racing – fast – to catch up with the group and could just see the light at the end of the trail as I rode through the last section of dark forest.

Exiting the shadows, and before my eyes could adjust, the trail turned sharply to the right to avoid a one-metre drop onto the footpath where the others were waiting. I went straight over the edge and nailed the brakes Oz-style, with plenty of unfortunate emphasis on what was actually the front brake. I pitched myself, with my still-attached bike, over on my head. Even more impressive was how I managed to land in a crumpled heap right at Wade‘’’s feet. The guys were concerned about me… but I was more concerned about the bike I had just tried to bury in solid concrete. Never have the words “What a ride!” been more apt.

The ultimate North Shore memory

As I rolled down the tarred road to our shuttle vehicles, my mind was going even faster than the bike and I had on the trails, trying to make sense of what had been one of the most full-on frightening, but also incredibly exciting, experiences of my life. I had ridden well above my skill level, crashed more in three hours than in the previous three years, picked up a heap of bruises, some impressive scratches, a cranking headache and one huge gouge on my shin. This gouge later produced a large scar that is still prominent on my shin today, years later (and acts as an ever-present reminder to always think twice before saying “yes”). Relief and elation don‘t even begin to describe how I felt at the end.

When I lobbed at the Air Canada check-in desk at Vancouver Airport later that day (after hobbling through the factory tour and inhaling a couple of post-ride coffee at Rocky HQ) I must have looked a sorry sight; a still-bewildered expression and bruises and scratches on my arms, legs, and across my face.

The check-in attendant asked what happened, and I only had to utter “I just rode the North Shore with Wade Simmons” for her to laugh, smile knowingly, and then deliver an unexpected but never more welcome bonus to an epic day: a Business Class upgrade…

The post On the edge of darkness: Mountain biking Vancouver’s North Shore appeared first on Australian Geographic.

To the Far North

The Yukon Territory is one of Canada’s northernmost territories, sitting above the province of British Columbia, and to the west of the Northwest Territories. Its northern border is shared with the USA’s Alaska. And it is vast. At 482,443 square kilometres, the Yukon contains an incredibly diverse mix of landscapes, from mountain ranges (including Canada’s highest peak, Mt Logan, at 5959 metres, located in Kluane National Park Reserve, a World UNESCO site, owing to it containing the world’s largest non-polar ice fields) and glaciers, to huge lakes, immense valleys, and a number of large (and famous) wild waterways (including the territory’s namesake river), as well as the Carcross Desert, often described as the world’s smallest desert. 

The territory is 80 per cent wilderness, which has resulted in an abundance of wildlife, including iconic North American species such as grizzly bears, wolves, moose, caribou (the Yukon’s 200,000 porcupine caribou tackle the longest mammal land migration in the world each year), bald eagles and more. 

The Yukon’s vast size doesn’t mean it is crowded, though. The sparse population of around 41,800 residents includes 14 First Nations (accounting for 20 per cent of the territory’s population) resulting in a rich and thriving culture. On account of this wilderness to people ratio (the population density is around 0.1 person per square kilometre), there’s a huge amount of space for some amazing adventures and the chance to get up close to one of nature’s most famous spectacles.

The best light show on the planet

“In the fall [Autumn], at the end of August, the beginning of September,” says Tobias Barth, of Epic North Tour Experiences. “When the leaves start turning colours and the Northern Lights show up for the first time after a couple of months of 24 hours of daylight – there is no word to describe the beauty of the Yukon landscape around this time.” 

They are powerful words, and apt when describing both the start of Aurora Borealis viewing opportunities, and the coinciding timeline of nature in the Yukon. The Yukon Territory is located below what is known as an “auroral oval” (where the aurora displays most strongly). The ‘bowl’ is a band around the earth that has been ‘pushed’ or moved by strong solar winds toward the dark (night) side of our planet. That solar wind disrupts the earth’s magnetosphere enough that particles from both the wind and the plasma of the magnetosphere ionise after precipitating in the upper atmosphere. The result of that ionisation is that brilliant and always varying emission of different light in the night sky. The colours vary due to always changing levels of oxygen and/or nitrogen in the atmosphere, thus you may have one night of the aurora with a notably greener tinge (higher levels of oxygen), but another with a more pink/purple hue (due to a larger amount of nitrogen in the atmosphere).

The solar cycle also plays a role in the aurora displays. The solar cycle is a periodic 11-year change in the sun’s activity. During the cycle, the levels of solar radiation and ejection of solar material, the number of sunspots, solar flares and coronal loops ebb and flow to a period of maximum activity (known as the ‘solar max’) and back again. Solar cycle 25 began in December of 2019 and is set to culminate between 2023 and the winter of 2025/26, when solar max will create more aurora activity here on Earth. Although this peak period will slowly ebb after 2026, aurora activity will still be dynamic, offering incredible northern lights viewing opportunities throughout the entire cycle.

Tobias notes this is why even Yukon locals never tire of the lights in the sky. 
“The Northern Lights are a breathtaking natural phenomenon… Even after hundreds of sleepless and freezing nights, I never get bored of it.” 

There are two seasons of aurora viewing, kicking off with the darkening skies of autumn (August-September; Dawson City is a great location for aurora viewing at this time of year), and then the winter season, from October to April. There are plenty of Northern Lights based tours and activities are on offer, with the majority based out of the Yukon capital of Whitehorse, as well as from some of the Yukon’s famous wilderness lodges (more on those later). A lot of operations offer a variety of ways in which to view the Northern Lights (Epic North Tour Experiences is one of the few that also offer custom/bespoke tours).

A tale of two seasons in the Yukon

The aurora is, without doubt, spectacular. Whether you visit the Yukon for the winter viewing season or the autumn, devoting a number of days to enjoying the Northern Lights’ distinctive displays is an absolute must (we’d recommend a minimum of three nights to have the best chance of viewing the lights). The best thing – and this applies to either viewing season – is that you don’t have to while away the daylight hours waiting for the lights; there are myriad activities on offer during the day, ensuring sure you are further enriched by the Yukon, beyond that famous set of lights. 

From wildlife viewing and ice-fishing, to sled-dog adventures, fat-bike riding, cultural enrichment, and snow-shoeing – not to mention simply enjoying the warmth of a wilderness lodge’s fireplace – a visit to the Yukon in autumn and winter can (and should!) include more than the aurora.

Roxanne Mason runs Yukon Guided Adventures with her husband David and believes autumn through winter is one of the best times of year to visit the Yukon, and not just because those seasons are prime aurora viewing times. 

“Here, in the Whitehorse, Haines Junction area, the light is up around 10 in the morning,” Roxanne says. “And it’s only for three months; in February, everyone’s excited because our days are getting longer. And by March, we have lights until about 10 o’clock at night.” That leaves plenty of time for some of the Yukon’s most famous outdoor pursuits…

Going wild in the winter

This mix of slightly longer nights and shorter days of light make autumn/winter ideal for aurora viewing, thanks to the extended period in which the dancing lights can be viewed. It also opens up the days (after a post-aurora nap) to an array of outdoor activities, including the Yukon icon that is dogsledding. These tours can run directly from some lodges, or you can opt to go with a dog-sled company directly. Tours can range from a half-day experience, through to what we reckon would be simply awesome: an overnight or multi-day adventure. Either way, it is an absolute must-do; being dragged on a sled across a vast white-clad landscape, by a team of strong and surprisingly fast huskies (and other sled-dog breeds) is a fantastic way of exploring the more remote parts of this spectacular province – and sit back in your own wilderness camp to view the Northern Lights. Yep, it’s an absolute blast. 

Equally unsurprising is the popularity of ice-fishing (think: grayling, lake cod, trout, etc.), which is as simple as drilling a hole in a frozen lake, and then waiting for (hopefully) a bite. Sitting in a chair, surrounded by a snow-clad landscape, while sharing hot drinks and a few laughs with your guide is not a bad way to spend a few hours. 

More recently, fat-biking has become a very popular winter activity. These bikes are equipped with large, wide tyres (hence the ‘fat’ moniker) designed to ‘float’ above the snow and ice, while offering excellent traction, and are a brilliant way to explore the Yukon wilderness in winter. You can hire fat-bikes in Whitehorse or jump on a guided tour; some even offer a hot tub soak after a ride – winning! Carcross, and nearby Bennett Lake (around 72k south of Whitehorse) provide a great short ride experience, while there are a number of longer rides in and around Whitehorse, as well as a lovely cruisy pedal along the Millennium Trail beside the famous Yukon River. And, if you’re not super-keen on all that pedalling, some places offer electric fat-bikes; Roxanne laughs about how much fun this activity is for her and her guests at Mount Logan EcoLodge. If you don’t wish to pedal, there’s also snowshoeing, with snowshoe hire and guided tours available. 

A standout of the Yukon Territory – and this is regardless of the season – is its abundant wildlife – even in the winter months. Roxanne cites spotting the elusive and shy lynx as a winter wildlife highlight, along with the chance to see wolves, coyote, and a number of bird species. This doesn’t have to mean camping out in the snow to view these species (and others), either. The Yukon Wildlife Preserve, around 30 minutes’ drive from Whitehorse, includes a dozen species and offers a brilliant opportunity to both view and learn more about some of the Yukon’s native fauna. It is open all year round. 

A welcome like no other

The Yukon Territory is renowned for many things (think: wildlife, wilderness, indigenous culture, gold-rush history, adventure), and this includes the Yukon people’s welcoming nature and hospitality, from campgrounds and hotels to its famous wilderness lodges. For visitors keen on having a ‘Yukon basecamp’ where you can enjoy day-time activities, friendly and knowledgeable hosts, meals cooked utilising native produce, plus prime Northern Lights viewing – all from the one pristine location – a lodge stay is perfect.

Speaking of pristine locations, it’s hard to argue that Mount Logan EcoLodge delivers on this account. Nestled just outside the boundary of Kluane National Park Reserve, this lodge is a true one-stop shop for winter/summer stays, with a number of on-site guided adventures (hiking, aurora viewing, ice fishing, and more) available, plus a range of accommodation types, from luxury suites to a prospector tent (replicating the accommodation used by miners during the Klondike Gold Rush), and even an old school bus! 

The Inn On the Lake is another example, providing similar packages covering autumn and winter aurora viewing, dog-sledding and plenty more, again from a spectacular location. For those looking for a true off-the-grid Yukon lodge stay, the Sky High Wilderness Ranch, at Fish Lake (30 minutes’ drive south of Whitehorse) is your dream come true. With no internet or electricity, and limited phone reception, you can immerse yourself in short or long sled-dog trips in the winter (from a three-day to epic 10- and 14-day sled-dog expeditions), as well as the obvious aurora viewing. The ranch has wood fires keeping your cabin warm and lighting provided by lamps using a natural flame (propane), allowing you to get rid of any modern distractions and enjoy the ancient and beautiful natural world in which you are staying. It is simply brilliant.

These two lodges barely touch the surface in terms of the many wilderness lodges dotted throughout the Yukon and what they offer; another example of the many is the Northern Lights Resort & Spa, which includes the ubiquitous dog-sledding experiences, plus snowmobiling, snowshoeing and ice fishing in the winter. You can also stay in a glass-fronted chalet at the Northern Lights Resort & Spa. These chalets are purposely built for optimum aurora viewing, with large floor-to-ceiling glass. This unique wilderness lodge is framed by pine forests and snow-drenched mountains, with cabins created from Douglas fir trees, and unobstructed views of the aurora borealis.

Finally, there is Southern Lakes Resort. Perched on Tagish Lake, this resort is situated within the traditional territory of the Carcross / Tagish First Nation. During autumn and winter, guests enjoy northern lights viewing, snowshoeing and snowmobiling. As you will see, once you start researching Yukon lodge-stays further, the choices are excellent – and endless! 

Your Yukon adventure: All you need to know

Getting there: This may surprise some, but even though the Yukon Territory seems like it is at the ‘ends of the earth’ it is not – and getting there entails a straightforward journey. Flights connecting Australia’s eastern seaboard (the majority from Sydney) to, firstly, Vancouver, and then directly on to Whitehorse mean you will be absorbing the spectacle that is the Yukon Territory in no time at all. 

Aurora seasons: Late autumn and winter offer prime aurora viewing; from late August through to the end of September covers off autumn and a slightly wider choice of outdoor activities, plus you have the spectacle of gold and crimson as tree leaves change colour to signal the move toward winter. Average temperatures in autumn range from highs of 4 and 19 degrees Celsius, to overnight temps of between -3 and 7 degrees. 

Winter (November to March) is cold with longer nights, although not as frigid as us Aussies may presume. Temperatures range from -1 and -11 degrees during the day, and -12 and -20 overnight. Pleas note that Whitehorse and the southern parts of the Yukon can experience far colder temperatures, dipping to -40 degrees and often to -30 degrees around mid-December to early March.

Accommodation: As well as the excellent wilderness lodges throughout the territory, the Yukon has options ranging from camping and RV parks and B&Bs, to hostels, hotels, motels, and rentals.

More information: Travel Yukon is a brilliant source of information for all things Yukon, whether that is suggested visitor itineraries, details on the various parts of the territory, ideas for how to plan for a visit, informative blogs and loads more, you will find it here.

The post The Yukon Territory: Wild days and magical nights under the Northern Lights appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Most of my outdoor forays have been well road-tested and documented by others, but a multi-day kayak around the Gippsland Lakes is not such a trip. For starters, the area is huge. Australia’s largest inland waterways system is fed by four rivers and sprawls across more than 400 square kilometres in a tempting maze of wiggly lines, long slender arms, islands and ocean-like expanses up to 18km across. There are countless possible routes that could keep a paddler busy for weeks, 360 degrees of variable wind directions to accommodate for, and the question of what speed can be achieved in such conditions. I’m not sure whether to be excited or intimidated by it. I’ve nutted out a route that ticks off some of the highlights but whether we’ll achieve it or not is another matter.

Gippsland Recreation Outdoor (usually busy with school groups) was willing to rent us a couple of boats, share some local knowledge and transport us to and from our start and end points. “Are you experienced?” director Matt Renshaw had asked during our lengthy pre-paddle chats. “Oh…yeah? Reasonably competent,” I’d replied with what was a totally subjective quantification. I’d tackled 4-day paddles around Lake Jindabyne before (sticking to its perimeter), a jaunt up the Noosa River (mostly sheltered) and four days of white-water kayaking (grade 1 and 2 rapids). My buddy Carola had done several guided, multi-day sea kayaking trips. We had some idea.

Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard once said, “When everything goes wrong, that’s when the adventure starts”. Our adventure starts on day one. 

A furry welcome

After driving the three hours from Melbourne, we set out after lunch with a three-hour paddle to Raymond Island. A bit of surface chop and a modest headwind keeps us busy, but we’re pumped to be out, excitedly pointing at little silver fish flitting across the surface and black swans flying in formation overhead.

Connected to Paynesville on the mainland by a five-minute ferry, Raymond Island is koala Heaven. In the face of declining populations, 32 were brought here in 1953 and now the population has risen to around 280 (roughly one for every two humans living here). Looping 1.7km through the manna gums, The Koala Walk virtually guarantees a showing and we’re not 50 metres along it when I spot our first fluffball, high up in a tree. “Ooh, look!” Then another. And another. In twenty minutes we see seven koalas, draped asleep over branches or lazily gazing down at us. One baby looks like a stuffed toy. 

Camping is not officially allowed on Raymond Island, so we’ve booked waterfront accommodation at its northern end, but with daylight dwindling and the headwind persisting, reaching it safely before sunset is now questionable. Reluctantly – and with our safety foremost in mind – I make the phone call to cancel our one night of comfort and develop a new plan – stealth camping at Paddlers Cove. 

We wait until darkness to set up which is when I discover the batteries in my head torch have gone completely flat. And I’ve neglected to pack my sleeping bag liner and inflatable pillow. By the time I’ve gone ten rounds with the wind, yanking at my tent while I struggle to get the pegs in, I’m drained.

Separated

But a new day is a new day, right? I knew it was going to be a big one when I planned it, but it was kind of unavoidable, involving a 5km crossing of Lake King to reach the mouth of the Silt Jetties, from where we’d paddle up the Mitchell River to camp. 

From water level, five kilometres is about the limit of sight but I figure if we head roughly north we’ll eventually get a visual on our target. “Just follow the needle,” I say flippantly, patting the compass strapped to Carola’s deck. 

I paddle solidly for an hour into a light crosswind before pausing to check our direction on the mapping app on my phone, hung around my neck in a plastic pocket. The first realisation is that we should be veering further left, but Carola has been gradually drifting right to the point where my arm-waving and yells can’t reach her. She is, it seems, committed to following the needle. Secondly, why am I only a quarter of the way across? I expected to be over halfway, but the wind (and perhaps a surface current) is putting the brakes on. A quick glance behind shows the yachts of Paynesville, disturbingly close. Argh!

Carola has GPS too. She’ll work it out, I reason. I dig in and paddle hard for another hour, eventually pulling up at a tiny beach for a breather before tackling the final two kilometres to the mouth of the Silt Jetties. I expected an easy ride with the wind finally behind me, but a stretch of side-on waves gives me hip wobbles worthy of a hula dancer, prompting a completely pointless barrage of abuse at the water. 

Finally, I’m inside. Calm. 

The Mitchell River delta and silt jetties are one of the world’s most significant ‘finger’ deltas. The 121km river slows as it loses itself to Lake King and any sediment carried to its mouth has settled, creating two 8km-long fingers of land on either side estimated to be between 6,000 and 10,000 years old. When they were first mapped in the 1840s they were twice the size but changes in water salinity (the lakes suffered significant flora and fauna changes when the entrance to the ocean was made permanent in the 1880s for boat access) and subsequent reed dieback and wind erosion have made them a shadow of their former selves. The winding corridor between the reeds still makes for an impressive paddle and a paradise for birds. 

I get a text from Carola to say she’s on a distant shore, far away, with no hope of catching up. It calls for a little more of the problem-solving hallmarks of a ‘real’ adventure. “Okay, paddle back to Raymond Island and I’ll collect you tomorrow morning on the way through,” I suggest. How I’ll manage the 50-metre portage across the silt jetty alone, to return to Lake King and on to camp, is the next challenge.

On reaching the crossover point, I flag down the first car that passes and enlist the help of a nice man to help me carry my fully laden kayak across, then launch it in onshore waves (more cursing) and paddle onward to Eagle Point camp. Miraculously, Carola arrives about an hour later, having been blown off-course yet again. 

We’re back on track! 

Birds of the Bunga

One of the joys of sleeping outdoors is the far greater likelihood of seeing sunrise and the next morning’s is a doozy. Black swans greet us, gliding gracefully across a golden sky reflected in the silky calm water. Paddling the millpond is even better. The water ‘dimples’ in places, belying frenzied fish hunting taking place below; occasionally a silver body torpedoes across the surface. 

Beyond the McMillan Strait we head south on a 4km crossing of Lake Victoria and despite the easy paddling, Carola gets a crippling cramp in her right shoulder – not that I know because I’m merrily charging ahead in the prime conditions. By the time she ‘limps’ onto the beach at Tatungalung Bay, tensions are high, but it’s nothing that a nudie swim certainly can’t fix. 

We’re getting into the more remote parts of the lake system now. The narrow Bunga Arm stretches 14km, sandwiched between dunes running parallel to Ninety Mile Beach and the Boole Poole Peninsula. Paddling into it is like gliding into a David Attenborough doco. One sandy beach is thick with hundreds of pelicans, grunting and clapping bills. Another is full of cormorants. Sea eagles, swans, herons, ducks – it’s like an avian depot where everyone hangs out when they’re not posing for photos in Paynesville or waiting for fish scraps at boat jetties.

Weirdly, my right shoulder starts hurting too (is it contagious?) but I let the wind carry me with minimal paddle strokes to Gannet camp, our home for two nights. You need a boat to reach the seven Parks Victoria campsites sprinkled within the space of a few kilometres, all ideal for soaking up the remote sheltered waters and adjacent ocean beach. 

Our plan for day four was to explore the Bunga Arm but with both of us having bung arms we give paddling a break and take a hike instead, wading up the inland waterway before crossing the dunes to the wild and windswept Ninety Mile Beach and then walking back to camp. 

Battle of the wind

Strong winds are forecast so we set out early the next morning, driving into a headwind for an hour before rounding the Boole Poole Peninsula. At 8.30am it’s already blowing 30kph and Carola’s arm is playing up. “Don’t worry, once we round this bend we’ll just be able to drift with the wind,” I confidently reassure her. “No paddling required!” 

Then the waves come, and it doesn’t take long until the surface buckles into steeply rolling waves. I watch the nose of my kayak pierce the water while my rudder presumably hovers uselessly in the air; despite pushing the pedals with all my might, all steering has gone. I drift perpendicular to the wind as the water rises beneath me, launching me sideways down the wave’s face and within nanoseconds of tipping. 

I drag my paddle on one side to bring the nose around, a la white-water kayaking. Troughs suck me backwards then I surf the next wave. And the next. “Mofos!” I yell. 

Meanwhile, Carola is bargaining with the universe, “If I can just survive this, I won’t go out again” (promptly forgotten once back on dry land, naturally). She even goes so far as to plan a quick demise should she flip over, plotting to remove her PFD and drown as quickly and painlessly as possible rather than an extended spluttering fight.

For about an hour the battle is fought until we’re eventually blown onto dry land. It’s enough excitement for one day. In unanimous agreement, tents are pitched alongside the swamp and salt lakes of Gippsland Lakes Coastal Park. 

Gimme shelter

The wind has tested our resolve but on our final day it rewards us with a gentle guiding hand at our backs, sweeping us past the cute village of Metung and up the sheltered waters between Flannagan Island and the mainland. Bottle green forest falls steeply to the water. Yachts anchor peacefully. I feel a little older and wiser than I did six days ago, though the elements have clearly put us in our place. 

We paddle towards the narrow channel that drains the entire Gippsland Lakes into Bass Strait and, with an outgoing tide, the current is ripping but we avoid getting sucked out to sea and duck up North Arm instead, delivering us to the backstreets of the holiday town of Lakes Entrance. Our mission is complete. 

“I guess you won’t want to come on another trip with me,” I say.

“When can we go?”

The post Water world: A kayak adventure in Victoria’s Gippsland Lakes appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Ride a rail trail to discover the High Country

To ride a bike in these mountains doesn’t necessarily mean you need to take to the mountains. Laid out below the peaks are three of Australia’s finest rail trails, including the longest in Victoria and arguably the most famous rail trail in the country.

The heart of the latter, the Murray to Mountains Rail Trail, runs for almost 100km through the Ovens Valley between Wangaratta and Bright, with side trails to Yackandandah (via Beechworth), Milawa and Wahgunyah (via Rutherglen). Produce as much as pedalling is the ride’s focus, with the likes of wineries, berry farms and cheesemakers strung along its length.

The Great Victorian Rail Trail stretches things out even further, with the state’s longest rail trail exceeding 120km between Tallarook and Mansfield, with a beautiful side trail through Eglinton Gap to Alexandra. Along its journey, the ride bores through the longest tunnel on any rail trail in Victoria and crosses high above Lake Eildon on a 387m-long bridge at Bonnie Doon. With lingering stops in historic towns such as Yea, Yarck and Alexandra, it’s a ride you can easily stretch across a few days.

The southern shores of Lake Hume are the centrepiece of the High Country Rail Trail. From Wodonga, the 80km ride ascends to its finish in Shelley, once the site of the highest railway station in Victoria, but not before passing the remnants of Old Tallangatta, a town relocated and then flooded when Lake Hume was created in the 1950s. 

Mountain biking heaven

Settle in – there are nine mountain bike parks sprinkled across the High Country, and that’s only the tip of the riding options. Spend a night in Mt Buller Village where you’ll find plenty of bike-friendly lodges, before taking to the Alpine Epic, the only trail in Australia rated as an ‘Epic’ by the International Mountain Bicycling Association.

Leaving from the edge of the village, the 46km descent (with a few challenging climbs along the way to break things up) ends at Mirrimbah, at the foot of the mountain, where there’s a shuttle bus back to the summit, or you can head on down to Mansfield to spin trail tales at one of its pubs or the beer garden at Anvil Brewing.

Ned Kelly might have pioneered the wearing of helmets around the area, but these days Beechworth abounds with bike helmets. Head out to the Beechworth Mountain Bike Park for 15km of bush trails or crisscross the Murray to Mountains Rail Trail on the Flame Trees cross-country loop.

Everywhere needs a hero trail, and in Bright it’s even named Hero Trail. Modelled on Whistler’s legendary A-line (one of the world’s most famous mountain-bike trails), Hero plunges for 3km down the slopes of Bright’s Mystic Mountain Bike Park – jump it or roll it, this descent is fun however you ride.

These two mountain bike parks are on the very edge of their respective towns, which are noted for their fine restaurants, craft breweries and proximity to vineyards, providing plenty of distraction for those hours off the bike.

Go high on alpine road rides

For road cyclists, it’s hard to resist the call of the mountains. The 7 Peaks Ride is Australia’s ultimate road test, challenging cyclists to pedal to the summits of Mt Hotham, Dinner Plain, Mt Buffalo, Falls Creek, Mt Buller, Mt Baw Baw and Lake Mountain.

In the manner of Europe’s grand Alpine climbs, each ride calls on strength and stamina, stringing together climbs of between 740m and 1320m. Paradoxically, it’s the lowest of those climbs – the 740m ascent to Mt Baw Baw – that packs the greatest punch, with an average gradient of more than 11%, including pinches above 20%. You can ride all seven peaks in a week, or stretch them out across several summers, totalling up more than 7000m of ascent. Most of the rides top out at ski resorts that have summer cycling habits, with cafes and lodges open throughout the summer.

For every mountain climb in the region, there’s also a valley ride, be it into the Buckland Valley from Bright, out to Lake Buffalo from Myrtleford, or mixing it up – valleys and climbs – on the 76km Stanley and Myrtleford loop out of Beechworth. Each ride begins and ends in a town, providing caffeine starts to fuel the day and quality accommodation and dining each night.

Explore the High Country backroads on a gravel ride

What’s not to love about a gravel ride named for its signature snack stop? Among the myriad gravel rides in this region fast cementing itself as one of Australia’s top gravel destinations, the Percorso di Cruffin is immediately delicious. With a name that’s Italian for “Road to Cruffins”, this 56km ride sets out from tiny Moyhu, looping north through Milawa, where the Milawa Kitchen serves up the namesake cruffins at around the ride’s halfway mark (Brown Brothers Winery is also right on the route if you prefer liquid refreshment).

Beechworth has become one of Australia’s great gravel-riding bases, with a long and varied selection of unsealed routes. If you’re new to gravel, or riding with kids in tow, begin on the 25km Stanley Intro Loop, or the 18km Lap o’ Town. Longer day rides include Mt Pilot Lookout (a 58km figure-of-eight circuit ascending to the highest point in Chiltern-Mt Pilot National Park) or scale it up to the Myrtleford Monster, a 123km classic out of Myrtleford, taking in the King Valley and Lake Buffalo, along with cafe stops at The Oven in Cheshunt and Hobbledehoy Cafe and Distillery in Whitfield.

There are plenty of good multi-day High Country bikepacking routes to be found online at Gravelmob, including a week-long High Country Breweries 550 cycling tour that happily finishes each day beside one of the region’s craft breweries.

Go to Ride High Country for even more information on bike rides, accommodation and other attractions in the Victorian High Country.

The post Cycling the Victorian High Country appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Walk this way

Mountain hikes reach their literal pinnacle in the High Country. The Razorback Walk, stretching north from Mt Hotham to Mt Feathertop – Victoria’s second-highest but arguably most spectacular mountain – is one of Australia’s finest alpine hikes. The 22km return route sets out from Diamantina Hut, 2.5km before Hotham Village, and follows a narrow, craggy ridge to the lofty vantage point of 1922m Mt Feathertop.

Mt Hotham is also the finish post for the three-day, 37km Falls to Hotham Alpine Crossing. A true exploration of the mountains, this hike combines high alpine ridges up to 2000m above sea level, snow gum stands, historic High Country huts and the namesake ski resorts at its either end. It’s unceasingly spectacular, with two campsites 14km apart along the route.

Mt Buller is also strung with walking trails, from a fun ‘Gnome Roam’ in which the kids can hunt out the mountain’s resident garden gnomes, to a two-hour Summit Nature Walk. Download the Mt Buller Walks app for ideas and interpretation along the trails.

Prefer a faster pace? The High Country peaks provide the sort of expansive views and cool climate that make them prime trail-running territory. On Mt Buller, step it out among the snow gums on the four-kilometre Gang Gangs Lazy Loop, or descend into sky-scraping mountain ash as you cross the Delatite River on log bridges on the 14-kilometre Delatite Drop from Mt Buller Village to Mirimbah.

Mt Hotham presents runners with the Cobungra Ditch, a near-level track beside an abandoned gold-mining water race, built in the 1880s, more than 1500 metres above sea level. If its 12.5 kilometres aren’t enough for your legs, branch away onto the Brabralung Trail, which connects Mt Hotham Village to Dinner Plain, to access a range of other tracks.

The High Country is The Man from Snowy River country, with much of the classic 1982 movie filmed on location, a cinematic connection that has helped make these mountains one of Australia’s top horse-riding destinations. Set out onto the slopes of Mt Stirling with McCormack’s Mountain Valley Trail Rides for a ride to Craig’s Hut, one of the most famous of the High Country’s many mountain huts. It was built as a set for The Man from Snowy River movie, and quickly acquired its own legendary status – it was even rebuilt in its classic style after being destroyed in a 2006 bushfire.

There’s fun on two wheels for everyone in the Victorian High Country

Victoria’s North East is Australia’s cycling heartland, and nowhere more so than around the mountains. Like big-name international ski resorts such as Whistler and Les Gets, the slopes of Mt Buller and Falls Creek transform into mountain bike trail networks in summer.

Mt Buller is Australia’s only accredited International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA) Ride Centre, recognising the appeal of its 100 kilometres of trails to cyclists of all abilities. Rides range from fast and flowy sprints through the snow gums on Gang Gang, to the headlining Alpine Epic, which begins at the edge of Mt Buller Village, crosses to the slopes of Mt Stirling and makes one of Australia’s best descents to the foot of the mountain in Mirimbah. It’s 46km of bike brilliance along the only trail in the country to have been bestowed ‘Epic’ status by the IMBA.

Head to Falls Creek and you’ll find another 50km of mountain bike trails, including the well-named Flowtown, which links in with two other trails (High Voltage and Wishing Well) to form a fun and approachable 10km gravity ride that descends more than 500 metres. And when you’re done on the mountain tops, there are more mountain bike parks awaiting at Bright, Beechworth, Dinner Plain, Mt Beauty and Mansfield, with trails suited to all rider skill levels, from kids and beginners, through to expert.

Road cyclists have just as much to love in the High Country, with roads over the region’s mountains providing challenge and beauty in one. Pedal to the summit of Mt Buller or Mt Hotham, encouraged on by dedicated cycling road signs noting distances and gradients, or take on the mission of the 7 Peaks. This alpine challenge involves cycling to the tops of seven mountain roads – Mt Buller, Mt Buffalo, Mt Hotham, Dinner Plain, Falls Creek, Lake Mountain and the revered Mt Baw Baw with its 11.4 per cent average gradient. Do it over a week or across the course of several summers.

Flatter and gentler are the region’s collection of traffic-free rail trails: graze your way through the gourmet pickings of the Ovens Valley on the Murray to Mountains Rail Trail; cruise with the family towards the foot of Mt Buller on Victoria’s longest rail trail, the Great Victorian Rail Trail; or hug the shores of Lake Hume on the High Country Rail Trail.

Where the rivers run

Head to the valleys to take to the streams. Flowing through Bright, the Ovens River is a favourite swim spot for visitors and residents, but it’s also a versatile kayaking waterway, offering flat-water paddling and stretches of white-water. Bright Adventure Company paddling trips hit the waters in summer, when flows are low and the river slows into mellow pools and gentle rapids. There’s even the chance of a platypus sighting. There are other kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding opportunities in alpine lakes such as Rocky Valley Lake at Falls Creek and Lake Catani on Mt Buffalo.

Mt Buffalo also has some of Australia’s highest and most imposing cliffs framing The Gorge and providing a range of adventure activities. Take a step into the unknown on an abseiling trip, with options ranging from family adventures on cliffs up to 25m in height, to a day-long 300m ‘mega abseil’ on The Gorge’s North Wall.

Why not stay hanging off The Gorge’s cliffs with a picnic suspended in a porta-ledge with Bright Adventure Company, or even sleep out for a night in a porta-ledge hanging from the cliffs with Unleashed-Unlimited – it’s the world’s highest cliff camping experience.

For more information all things Victoria’s North East, see Victoria’s High Country

The post Outdoor adventures in Victoria’s High Country appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Less than three hours’ drive from Darwin and you’re at arguably Australia’s best barramundi fishing destination: the Daly River. This 351km-long waterway winds its way past the town of Daly River and the indigenous community of Nauiyu and offers plenty for (obviously) the angler, but also Top End history buffs, birdwatchers and 4WD tourers. 

The area has been the home of the Malak Malak people for eons, with the discovery of copper back in 1882 at Mt Hayward seeing Europeans arrive in more significant numbers. There is little remaining of the copper mine today, besides the mine shafts themselves. The next European visitors to the region were Jesuit missionaries, who established a small mission (now in ruins just near the Daly River Mango Farm) and then, much later in the 1950s Roman Catholics moved to the community of Nauiyu, now the area’s main town/centre, with the majority of the population Roman Catholic. Visitors should definitely check out Nauiyu; besides the obvious resupply and refuel opportunities, the community’s Merrepen Arts Centre is brilliant. Visitors can purchase indigenous artwork here in a variety of styles and formats, ranging from paintings to shirts and weavings. The community’s church is also worth a look.

Of course, it is the big (some say biggest) barramundi that most visitors to Darwin come to the Daly River for. Arrive just after Wet Season is over and the roads (and the Daly River Crossing itself) are passable and you’ll be in with a great chance of snaring that big barra. There are numerous accommodation options around here that revolve around the hunt for barra, or you can camp down beside the river itself if you wish. However, it’s not only the barra that are big; as with most Top End waterways, the Daly River is home to both species of crocodile and some of the saltwater crocs lazing on the river’s shore are indeed bloody huge – as in longer than some tinnies. Cruising along the river in your boat, throwing out a line for barra and ogling the massive crocs, is great fun though.

There are a number of short four-wheel drive adventures surrounding this area, including a day visit out to the community of Peppimenarti (you will need to apply for a visitor’s permit beforehand), or a trundle down to some of the nearby billabongs for some bird spotting. Alternatively, there’s the 1.5-hour drive to Oolloo Crossing and the chance to camp in this pristine, remote part of the area. The crossing here is rarely used due to the build-up of sand banks on the opposite side of the river (and you need a permit), but the bush camping on the banks above the river is great. You can even launch your tinny here if you wish to hook a barra or two. 

As well as the same-named crossing on Oolloo Road, there’s the Douglas River Esplanade Conservation Area, slightly north of the crossing. This conservation area contains some fantastic thermal springs that are great for washing the dust off in, and simply relaxing. There are nine campsites here as well, with plenty to occupy both those on a day visit, or those camping.  The Arches (a rock formation carved by the river’s flow) is well worth an hour of exploration, as is The Weir. Keep an eye out for water dragons, snakes and other native wildlife that live in this riverine environment. 

Going from Daly River/Nauiyu to Oolloo Crossing and the Douglas River Esplanade Conservation does require some backtracking but a long weekend would make this more than worth the effort.  For lovers of the big NT waterways, barramundi fishing, croc-spotting and a thriving indigenous culture, it’s a no-brainer.

Related: Northern Territory adventures: Four of the best

Litchfield National Park

Just over an hour from Darwin, Litchfield National Park fulfils the cliché of transporting you to another world. In this case, one of huge waterfalls, big rivers, bigger wildlife, bushwalks, loads of swimming, excellent camping and prolific birdlife. The park is a microcosm of the Top End; smaller than its famous neighbour, Kakadu, Litchfield gives visitors with limited time the chance to gain a sense of the Top End’s timeless appeal. (See our Kakadu NP road trip story here.)

The township of Batchelor is the quickest way to enter the park from Darwin, and you follow Litchfield Park Road into the northwest corner of the park, where you’ll find all the famous attractions, such as Florence Falls, Buley Rockhole, Tolmer Falls, and Wangi Falls directly off this sealed route. The Tabletop Swamp and The Lost City are accessed via dirt racks off this main road. In this northern section, you won’t be alone – day visitors and tourist buses swamp this part of Litchfield during the Dry Season. Swimming in the Top End is generally a no-go due to the proliferation of saltwater crocodiles in the region’s waterways. However, most pools at the bottom of Litchfield’s waterfalls are checked by Parks NT at the end of the Wet Season. 

For a more remote, wilder experience, we’d recommend spending just the day and night in this part of the park (and camping at Wangi Falls). Then we’d head south, via the 4WD-only track that takes you south from Greenant Creek. This track swaps between challenging and straightforward, with a big dose of fun. There are some great highlights along here, not the least being the water crossings – the Reynolds River, in particular, is a cracker – but also make time for a stopover at historic Blyth Homestead and a swim at Tjaynera Falls.

More water crossings follow as you continue south before Surprise Creek Falls, another fantastic swim spot and campsite. From here you continue to the park’s southern exit/entry and turn east on to Daly River Road and then back to the Stuart Hwy and Darwin. Yep, if there’s a city that has plenty of short – and unique – escapes, it’s the Top End capital of Darwin.

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Barely an hour from Perth, this 1800-hectare national park is a popular day-trip destination for Perth residents but really deserves at least two days – especially if you’re a keen bushwalker, paddler or angler. The park’s main feature is the Swan River, which runs through the park and offers great swimming and paddling (kayak or canoe), as well as the chance to explore the river’s edge on foot. In the winter months the water level is higher, resulting in some cracking sections of rapids to negotiate (the famous Avon Descent – a whitewater paddling event – is held each August). In summer, when the river is generally lower, the park’s three deep pools – Syd’s Rapids, Walyunga and Boongarup – are popular swimming holes. For anglers, you can throw a line in for trout – not a bad way to bag a feed for the night’s camp.

The national park is characterised by spectral flooded gum trees running along the side of the river. As you move up the valley slopes the vegetation changes to more open wandoo (white gum) woodlands before you encounter impressive examples of jarrah trees up on the ridgelines. For lovers of wildflowers, springtime sees the landscape a kaleidoscope of colour as the numerous varieties of wildflower bloom. 

According to WA National Parks, Walyunga NP contains what is one recognised as one of the largest aboriginal campsites – one that was still used by the local Nyoongar people late last century, with claims it has been used as a meeting place for more than 6000 years. This site is located at the western end of Walyunga Pool (the large pool is found at the end of the road of the same name).

 For bushwalkers (young and old) the park’s tracks are ideal; for families, the flat 5.2km Syd’s Rapids Trail (leaving from Boongarup Pool), will take you to some of the sections of rapids used in the Avon Descent (they can be seriously challenging in high-water conditions), while the Echidna Trail – an 11km loop that will take three to four hours, and starting from Walyunga lower pool – is more of a challenge for experienced bushwalkers.

The rewards of this walk are the chance to stroll through fields of wildlflowers (when in season) as well as along the Swan River’s banks before you ascend through heathlands on the way to the steep summit of Woodsome Hill (the views over the Avon Valley are brilliant). Keep an eye out for the park’s rich birdlife (black-faced cuckoos, parrots, galahs, etc.) while you take a breather before the descent. 

Walyunga NP may be a small ‘blip’ on the radar, but it does offer all we love in regards to tranquil bush camping settings, oodles of bushwalking and some fantastic swimming and paddling opportunities, all within an hour of the bright lights of Perth.

Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park

Claimed to be the most popular national park in WA, this 19,092-hectare giant lays its claim to that crown thanks to the abundant outdoor activities inside it – surfing, swimming, diving, hiking, cycling, touring, camping, fishing and more – as well as the landscape combo of pristine coastline abutting the often-ferocious swells of the Indian Ocean, meshed with heavily timbered forest behind the dunes. Throw in the added bonus of historic homesteads and lighthouses, as well as some amazing caves, and Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park fills that cliché of something for everyone. To that effect, the park is really a long-weekend destination at a minimum, but thanks to its manageable distance from Perth, that just gives you the excuse to return more than once.

The park has four campgrounds – Boranup, Point Road, Conto and Jarrahdene – with all of these being of the first-arrive, best-score type. Point Road has probably the most appeal as it is accessed via a 4WD-only track and is a small campground sheltered from winds on the edge of the Boranup karri forest, with access to the nearby coastline via Point Road itself. Conto, with 116 camp sites, is ideal for larger groups, and those after more space along with ‘luxuries’, such as a campers’ kitchen, tables, toilets and barbecues. It is right next to Conto Springs Beach.

Jarrahdene campground is south of the Margaret River and nestled beside the historic site of the Heritage-listed Jarrahdene Mill, built in 1896. The campground has 36 camp sites with toilet blocks and sheltered barbecue areas scattered throughout. The 135km Cape to Cape walking track links Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse in the north and its Cape Leeuwin counterpart in the south (both are open to visitors). You can walk a number of the track’s sections as day-walks or even shorter ambles if you wish.

For swimming or diving, there are numerous beaches to choose from. The more sheltered Cape Naturaliste and Shelley Cove in the north offer ideal swim spots for families, along with Bunker Bay, located on the northern side of Cape Naturaliste. Anglers can fish all along the coastline – and off-shore (in your own boat or with a charter company). Expect to (hopefully) catch salmon, snapper, tailor and dhufish – but be aware of bag limits and please only keep what you will eat. Surfing is super-popular here, with the Indian Ocean swells regarded as top-notch by wax-heads worldwide. Margaret River, Guillotines, South Point, Gallows – are just some of the popular surf spots. 

Away from the coast and it is time to head underground. The park contains numerous caves, with visitors able to explore any number of them, including Calgardup and Giants Cave. You can also opt for guided tours of Mammoth Cave and Lake Cave.

Leeuwin-Naturaliste NP is chockas with stuff to do and, as mentioned, it is so close to Perth. Our best advice: tackle a long weekend in the north, then return a few more times to spend weekends in the south and also to explore the park hinterland. Done! 

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The Yukon is 80 per cent wilderness, which means an abundance of wildlife, such as grizzly bears, wolves, moose, caribou, bald eagles and more. The sparse population of around 41,800 residents equates to a wilderness-to-people ratio of 0.1 person per square kilometre, with its capital, Whitehorse, one of the world’s great adventure towns. So, yeah, there’s a huge amount of space; something I remind myself of as I fly in a helicopter over mountain ranges east of Dawson City, toward one of the Yukon’s iconic outdoor playgrounds. This is the first of eight days of trying to experience as much of the Yukon’s lengthy menu of outdoor activities and is already shaping up as nearly a mission impossible. But I can’t say I am not going to try…

NORTHERN EXPOSURE

The thrum of the helicopter’s blades disappear as my full attention is diverted to what is unfolding below me – a not so subtle reminder of the Yukon Territory’s grandeur. The TransNorth chopper is inching slowly through the air toward the jagged, knife-edged silhouette of Tombstone Mountain, and I have a literal front-row seat; the cockpit glass curves in front and then underneath my feet and that dramatic peak seems within toe-touching distance. Flying through a lower gap in the Tombstone Range’s spires is a breathtaking, memorable way to be introduced to one of the Yukon Territory’s natural wonders: Tombstone Territorial Park. Along with The Klondike Experience guide, Kevin Desperrier, I am here for three days of trekking and camping, exploring this park’s natural highlights, far removed from the hustle and bustle of ‘regular’ life. It is a chance to reconnect with this planet’s wild side, and I couldn’t have picked a more perfect locale for that purpose.

Tombstone Territorial Park, north of Dawson City (and, if you’re not lucky enough to get a chopper ride in, is reached via, firstly, the Klondike, then the Dempster Highway) covers more than 2200 square-kilometres. The park’s landscape ranges from boreal forest and high, dramatic mountain peaks in the south (including Tombstone Mountain, right where we landed), through to the contrast of rolling subarctic tundra in the Blackstone Uplands of the north. 

The altitude here ranges from around 550m in the Chandindu River valley up to the 2350m summit of Mt Frank Rae. The park is criss-crossed by numerous waterways, including the Tombstone, North Klondike, Chandindu, Blackstone and East Blackstone rivers. It is also host to the annual migration of the 120,000-strong Porcupine caribou herd, claimed to be the longest migration of any land animal on Earth. Inside this park are plenty of hiking trails, campsites, rivers to paddle, and wildlife, plus the excellent – and must-visit – Tombstone Interpretive Centre, which showcases the park’s geology and First Nations history. 

The land of the giants

A few minutes to wait for the chopper to leave, and a few more last-minute shuffles of gear, and Kevin and I shoulder our packs and start following the track up toward Tallus Lake and its perfectly-located campsite and cooking shelter – a common theme in this park, as we found out later… For us today, though, Tallus Lake is a short stop and photo op, before we continue to our first-day goal of Divide Lake, where we will be spending our first night. 

It’s hard to describe the vastness of this territorial park. It combines grasslands with those aforementioned jagged peaks (a constant companion on our three days here), along with some of the most beautiful lakes (and the rivers that flow from them), tucked in underneath the towering stone giants. It’s as if a pro photographer has designed the landscape for optimum impact and, if that was ever the case, it certainly delivers; I spend more time gawking at the scenery than I do watching where my boots are being placed on the undulating track, swivelling between the more rounded summits of the Cloudy Range to our north, and the Tombstone Range’s dark-grey ramparts to our south.

I am also straining my eyes to look for moving brown clumps up on the higher slopes of the Cloudy Range, in the hope that I may spot one of the park’s other famous native residents – the grizzly bear. Of course, I am hoping my viewing opportunity will be a safe one, with said bruin staying in the distance. We do have bear spray packed – a prerequisite for any visitors into the park, along with a compulsory safety briefing at the Interpretive Centre before you head out – so we are prepared if the extremely unlikely encounter does occur. Indeed, Kevin remarks that he has only seen one, and that was on his last trip, with it being way up the mountainside. The combination of a reasonable amount of trekking traffic along the trail, the strict adherence by campers to storing all ‘smelly’ items (think: food, toothpaste, etc.) in the supplied bear bins, and their focus on simply minding their own business, means a close encounter is far less likely. What I do spot – at around one-twentieth the size of a grizzly – is an overly curious hoary marmot, who follows us (at a safe distance of probably around 30 metres) for about two minutes as we negotiate a boulder field before we reach a plateau overlooking our final destination of Divide Lake. It negotiates the boulders at a much faster pace than the two pack-carrying humans it’s following do. Nothing beats nature.

To divide but never conquer

The descent to Divide Lake takes us close to the lake shore, before we walk beside this impressive body of water to, firstly, where our (raised) tent sites are, and then on to the cook shelter, where one of the Park Rangers is just finishing up his meal. These shelters resemble a canvas A-tent, on a larger scale, and include a large timber table for preparing of meals. Nearby are the bear bins, where all our smelly/odour-emitting food and other gear is stored. It’s a good 100 metres away from the tent sites. It’s a relief to sit down (on a lightweight fold-up chair – my new best friend when trekking, I have decided) and drag out our individual bear barrels, with all our food. Kevin soon has the fuel stove burning away and we enjoy a hot coffee and some food, while I stare, entranced, at the huge lake and surrounding mountains just beside the cook shelter. 

We’ve had great walking weather to this point – it’s a 6km trek that, with photos, took us about two and a half hours – but as I look out to the view for about the twentieth time, I notice dark clouds looming on the southern horizon. A quick mention to Kevin has us both charging back up to the tent sites, hoping we beat the incoming rainstorm. And we do – just – and then I spend the next hour just lying in my tent, enjoying the sound of water on nylon. It’s been a long-ish day, but my mind is already moving toward a slower speed; you’d think the immense surrounding landscape would seem intimidating, but it’s actually more like a welcoming envelope of nature, lulling your mind into full relaxation mode. After a hectic few days of long flights, finally arriving at this majestic location has really set my mind at ease. Yeah, it’s probably a cliché, but when the only sound you hear outside is either wind or the patter of raindrops on your tent, your mental state reflects that tranquillity.

There and back again

Our plan for the second day is to retrace our steps to Tallus Lake. However, for those with more time, you can continue north, toward pretty Grizzly Lake, and then continue on from there to the Dempster Highway. Eight years previously, I had walked into near Grizzly Lake, so I knew I wasn’t missing anything new (it is, however, a spectacular campsite and landscape for those who haven’t been there before), and so we have a leisurely start the following morning, and take the time to chat more with Caelan, the park ranger, as well as Jolee, a lady trekking the route solo. The temperature overnight – around -5 degrees Celsius – saw some snow drop on the summit of Mt Frank Rae, and it was still there the next morning. 

The return to Tallus kicks off with an initial climb back up to the plateau, passing a couple with their dog (a miniature Australian Shepherd, one of two dogs we meet during our three days), before dropping down toward Tallus Lake. From our final high-point, the view is just gobsmacking: the Tombstone Range sprawls below us, with the snow-dusted peak of Horn Mountain and Mt Frank Rae on the opposite side.  

The descent to camp is like walking into a fairy tale land of mountains and lakes; the sun is out and it’s too good a day to not do something extra, so we do. Kevin points out an inverted wedge-shaped cliff that, he says, has a lake directly below. We negotiate the undulating track, and a rock-hopping traverse of the Tombstone River, before we arrive at a natural amphitheatre. The cliff plunges nearly 90 degrees into the lake and it is spectacular. Too soon, we are heading back to camp, where we are joined by another group of hikers for an evening of yarns and laughs. No, it doesn’t get any better…

A final morning anywhere in the wilderness is a bit sad; leaving such a special place, no matter how many days you have spent there, can be hard to do. Kevin helps with the separation anxiety by cooking up some epic pancakes and bacon – and more coffee, of course – before we pack up camp and start the 1km amble down to the helicopter landing site. We’d mentioned the afternoon walk to the other group of hikers the night before, and we pass them on the way to the heli-pad as they are making their way back. Their eyes are lit up with excitement from what they saw down there and, even as I know it’s an impossibility, I am seriously tempted to turn around and join this group for another few days. 

Kevin and I laugh about that as we wait for the heli. Both agree on the reason for that dreamlike moment of rashness: no matter how long you spend in Tombstone Territorial Park, the park’s sense of being a timeless, naturally wild place rubs off, to the point where you wish time in the rest of the world moved as it does here.

THE RIVER OF DREAMS

If there’s an outdoor activity that could be classified as synonymous with the Yukon, it would have to be paddling. The canoe is, of course, a Canadian icon – and the Yukon has myriad rivers and lakes suited to this craft – but there is also plenty of kayaking (both flat and whitewater) and rafting available on a number of rivers, too. It really is a matter of “picking your poison” in terms of finding a waterway (or 10!) that you can paddle your favourite watercraft in. And it all starts with the territory’s namesake river…

The Yukon River is one of the canoeing world’s most famous bucket-list journeys and, if you have the time, the journey from Whitehorse north to Dawson City, replicating the route taken by the ‘stampeders’ in the Gold Rush era as they rushed to the Klondike goldfields, is simply brilliant. The ‘full monty’ version of this journey takes between 14 and 20 days. 

For those with less time, you can opt to paddle either the Whitehorse to Carmacks leg, or the Carmacks to Dawson City one. Of course, even a day paddling this famous river is great fun and there are plenty of operators, who provide guided day paddles, or canoe hire for those wishing to tackle the big river independently (with a pick-up and return to Whitehorse at the end of the day). 

For me, it is going to be three days, thanks to Yoshi of Sweet River Enterprises, and experienced paddling guide, Kate Moylan. Yoshi and Kate are super organised and efficient, starting with us all meeting the day before the river journey starts. All my gear is checked for its suitability to the trip, and I am given a 70L drybag in which to store all my clothing and gear. We also chat through the route and what we can expect along the way. 

In the beginning

Packing a canoe is always like a game of Tetris; making sure all the gear fits – and that it keeps the canoe balanced, weight-wise – is the focus, and it proves so again on this first morning on the river. Appropriately, we are tackling the river journey in a 17-foot Prospector canoe; as the name suggests, its design is modelled on the craft used by those early fortune-hunters. The canoe’s size means all our food, water, cooking gear, camping gear, dry bags, an extra paddle – and ourselves – are all accounted for and tied down securely after about an hour of shifting and swapping gear positions around. Now, it’s time to join the Yukon.

The river runs quite fast – you could down paddle and float and still make distance – but after me re-learning and practicing a few paddle strokes to Kate’s satisfaction, our paddles dip in and we add extra propulsion to what will be around a three-hour journey to our first campsite. Initially, we pass Whitehorse and a few other housing estates but already, and even though we are still very close to ‘civilisation’, being on the river seems to remove us from the surrounding noisy world. The oft-hypnotising sound of a regular paddle stroke, and our own conversation, make us feel like we are on our own on the water. And we are. For most of this first afternoon, it is just one canoe, Kate and I moving with the ageless flow of the Yukon. We spot a couple of juvenile bald eagles along the way, but otherwise it is just us and the river. 

Treasure island

Map-makers can, sometimes, possess a sense of humour, and this is never more evident than when I see our first campsite and hear its name. Egg Island is tiny, and appropriately, situated below the larger Duck Island – get it? Duck and egg synergies aside, the island is beautiful – our very own slice of Yukon River paradise. It also provides some excitement for us paddlers as, due to the unusually high water level on the river during our time on it, we have to do a bit of ferrying (crossing a fast flow on an angle, aiming at particular landing point) to reach a take-out point. That small burst of paddling power is worth it, though, as the island is all ours for the night and it’s not too long before Kate and I have set up a camp kitchen (again, being bear-aware, it is well away from our tents’ riverbank location) and enjoying some smoked salmon and canapés, before grilled salmon and vegetables for dinner, followed by a dram of rum, all while sitting beside a campfire and chatting about paddling’s eternal appeal. Sipping the rum, I wonder what those early fortune-hunters would have thought, if they could see us now…

We are blessed with more good weather the following morning – and I am spoilt with more good nosh: a hot coffee is waiting when I emerge from my tent and then Kate cooks up a storm of bacon, egg and cheese muffins, while I start packing drybags and stoking the campfire back to life. It’s what spending time in the outdoors is all about: not rushing, enjoying being in the moment, and knowing that, very soon, you’ll continue your adventure, again at the whim of the river’s flow and that welcome wind at your back. 

Our next camp is at Steamboat Slough, a larger island on the river that has, according to Yoshi, some brilliant camping. The journey there takes us around four hours and, along the way, we have our first encounter with other canoeists. This time, it’s a guided group who are doing the big paddle from Whitehorse to Dawson City. A few shouted ‘hellos’ and ‘good lucks’, accompanied by shit-eating grins from both our parties, and they are past and gone. 

Soon, we are passing the mouth of the Takhini River, a whitewater-filled adventure that I was lucky enough to experience on my first-ever trip to the Territory. I remember that day, launching through rapids and the high adrenalin it induced but, funnily enough, I don’t wish I was there again; today’s more tranquil paddle is allowing me to absorb more fully the where and what of the Yukon River.  

Heaven on earth

Finding a ‘nice’ campsite is up there at the top of any multi-day paddler’s wish-list and we definitely score when we pull into the camp at Steamboat Slough. The large campsite has with a picnic table and what is probably the most unique ‘bush outhouse’ I have seen in my travels. From our camp kitchen (we utilise our large tarp and cover the picnic table to convert it to the cooking area) we watch the emerald-green rush of the river going by and, in the distance, the river winding toward Lake Laberge, bare rock-faced mountains dominating the distant skyline. We even hear the splash of salmon as they continue their journey upriver back to their spawning grounds. It’s a wild and rugged land here, and I catch myself often in awe of what the early gold prospectors achieved, travelling this river in what were, mostly, flimsy self-made rafts and small boats.

For us modern adventurers, it’s an afternoon of coffee, snacks and more paddling talk before another smaller guided group of five paddlers, in three canoes, arrives – this group heading to Carmacks over eight days. They look slightly envious of our Taj Mahal-like camp kitchen setup and also share a laugh with us when they discover that unique bush loo, before setting up camp at the far side of the campsite’s cleared area.

Kate and I discuss the next (and final) day’s leg over dinner and rum. There’s a chance we may cop the dreaded headwinds as we move north on to Lake Laberge itself. The reason it is a concern is the lake is simply immense. At around 48km long and between two and five kilometres wide at various points, its size is hard for me to get my head around – we simply have nothing of that scale in Australia. Kate mentioning this huge body of water actually freezes over winter makes it even more so! She also mentions how it can take days to traverse the lake, before joining the 30 Mile section of the Yukon River if conditions are not favourable. It is the wind that causes issues for paddlers; large waves can be kicked up by a strong headwind and that makes paddling a canoe where there is no shelter from said wind, a tough task. We discuss a few early landing options but decide that, until we actually reach the lake mouth the next morning, we won’t know for sure. 

The passage

Paddlers are generally advised (and Kate concurs) that the lake’s eastern shoreline is the preferred route for canoes. However, for us, we need to stick to the more open western side due to the fact that our pull-out point is Shallow Bay, on that side of the lake. We strike it lucky again this final morning, though, with minimal wind to speak of. 

It’s a dreamy and surreal feeling paddling out into the wide expanse of the lake-mouth, with its size making us feel ever so insignificant and the day’s utter stillness adding to that ethereal sensation. We do lose our friendly and supportive tailwind on the lake – and the river’s fast flow is muted somewhat in such a high volume section of water – but we make steady progress up the lake’s western shoreline. I admire a number of lakeside houses along this part of the lake and wish (crazily, I know) that I was fortunate enough to own one. I mean, after all, if you had the funds, what could be better than a lakeside cabin in the Yukon for its summer?

Our final leg on this morning takes us toward the large Richthofen Island, before our pull-out point at Shallow Bay. I don’t know if it’s me, or Kate, or both of us, but we seem to be taking more than the usual time to cover distance now. I put it down to the fact that three days on the Yukon River has taught (especially) me that life’s pace does not need to be pushed; the river’s natural and timeless flow – and my journey with it – has given my mind and body a huge re-set. This hits home dramatically when I am helping pull the canoe out of the water for the last time: I have stopped, and although I feel both tired and exhilarated, my mind is already being filled with that sense of urgency so prevalent in our modern world. In contrast, the Yukon River continues to go on – and will so forever, at its own pace, and in its own time. In an odd sense, paddling the river aligns with how it represents freedom and a feeling of timelessness, both of which I intend experiencing again in the future. After all, there’s still a lot more Yukon River to explore…

TWO WHEELS ON HIGH

I am sitting on a mountain bike atop Mt McIntyre, the Yukon capital of Whitehorse far below myself and Terra Riders Yukon’s Daniel Sams. We’ve just driven up this peak in his mammoth shuttle rig – a monster Ford F250 with a stadium seating setup out back – and dropped off a group of four ladies from British Columbia’s Campbell River, who are here on a mountain biking week, sans kids and husbands. I can just hear them whooping and hollering as they crest a rise further across the mountain top, on their way to finishing a 35km MTB ride back to town. Now, it’s quiet, with just a whisper of wind, as Dan fills me in on Terra Riders, surely the dream business to run if you’re an adventurous soul.

“Terra Riders was in my mind for a good 10 years before I actually got it off the ground,” he says. “There were a lot of funding options for extra curricula sports in the UK at that time and it seemed that I could fuse my love of two wheels and youth work together. 

“I found a mountain bike instructors course in Whistler in 2010 then got rather distracted by an unexpected life in Canada until 2019 when we officially launched Terra Riders after moving to the Yukon in 2018. The primary focus was, and is, for youth and kids’ programs during the summer months, but tourism is a way to give our coaches the occasional well-earned break from the “Little Terras” and a variety of work options throughout the year.

Our “well-earned break” is a day sampling, firstly, Blown Away, a Blue grade 2.4km descent, starting here at the top of Mt McIntyre, and then, later on after lunch, an afternoon getting a taste of the famous MTB trails of Carcross, about an hour’s drive south of Whitehorse.

Dan describes the riding in the Yukon as “a more rugged, traditional mountain biking experience, with high alpine trails for day-long adventures” and Blown Away fits that bill exactly, with its slightly techy feel, along with plenty of rocks, some sharp uphill pinches, and tree roots further down in the forest section. Up high we can see forever, looking over huge Fish Lake to the west and Whitehorse and the Yukon River to the east. It is brilliant riding, requiring a bit of focus but not at the expense of pure fun. The high meadows are soon replaced by forest as we descend, winding through narrow trail sections and enjoying this trail’s natural features to the full.

Blown Away is just one of numerous MTB trails surrounding Whitehorse – there is more than 700km of trail surrounding the city – and Mount McIntyre contains a number of other notable rides, such as Starbucks Revenge and the Porcupine Ridge Trail. Closer to town – and more mellow – is the Yukon River Trail, while Grey Mountain provides loads of cross-country rides or some cracking downhill runs, such as Money Shot, a 700-metre descent to the Yukon River. 

Grabbbing the wolverine by the tail

Mountain biking has grown in popularity incredibly quickly in the Yukon over the past decade, as Dan confirms when he says, “It seems there are more cars with bike racks than not, often with a value of bikes on them that far surpasses the value of the vehicle carrying them!”

And, really, it’s not hard to see how that has happened. The territory’s landscape feels like it has been shaped perfectly for mountain biking, with its big mountains, rolling hills, deep valleys and old First Nations and prospectors’ routes providing the base for what is hundreds of kilometres of trails and some amazing trail networks throughout, with a mix of trails for all rider skill levels. 

One of the Yukon mountain biking success stories is Carcross. An hour south of Whitehorse, this town has become a global hotspot for mountain biking tourists. This is due to the hard work by members of the community – not the least the local First Nations youth who, through a programme called ‘SingleTrack to Success’ built an amazing trail network on Montana Mountain, just out of town (a 2016 documentary, “Shift” details this great story). The result is a combo of sweet flowing singletrack, and trails graded from beginner through to expert. 

Today, Dan and I are here at Montana Mountain to ride the awesome Upper Wolverine, a Black Diamond grade downhill, that becomes Lower Wolverine (Blue Grade) further down. The reason for the grading separation? Upper Wolverine contains a long and technically challenging section of huge rock slabs and tall boulders, along with sizeable drop-offs, rooty singletrack and a few ‘skinnies’ (very narrow timber ‘bridges’ – not more than a couple of tyre widths across – that connect some of the larger boulders). For this, ahem, unashamedly intermediate-grade rider, it’s an eye opener but, with Dan’s coaching and encouragement, it turns out to be an absolute hoot. 

Linking on to Lower Wolverine sees the trail ease off in terms of technical difficulty, replacing the tech with swooping, speed-encouraging berms and longer stretches of open trail, including the iconic “Photo Corner”, which sees riders turn at some speed into a sweeping right-hand berm above Bennett Lake, far below. From Lower Wolverine to Fox is more winding and faster singletrack, before we pop back out on the main access road up the mountain. Here, Dan leaves me, utilising his e-MTBs pedal-assistance to wind his way back up the road to pick up his truck, while I continue on my MTB dream ride – this time, following the aptly named Mossy. This Green rated trail is as fun – and fast – as you want to make it, with the dirt ribbon of the trail cutting through the bright green, moss-clad (hence the name) landscape. All too soon, like the rest of this MTB day, it is over, and I have popped out at the bottom of the mountain, with only a footbridge to negotiate before making my way to one of Carcross’s cafes. 

For any visiting riders to the Yukon, both Whitehorse and Carcross need to be on your list – and you need to allow plenty of time. The trail networks here are very well signposted and there are so many trails to choose from, you don’t want to rush it. And, best of all, whether it’s a coffee in Carcross or a craft brew in Whitehorse, there are loads of after-ride food and drink establishments for after-ride celebrations. 

The Yukon at its best

It’s a hectic but incredibly amazing eight days in the Yukon Territory. For anyone who loves the outdoors and hiking, paddling, biking, camping, history, and cultural enrichment, there are few places that offer all this in such abundance. After each of my different adventures here, I meet up with Yas Yamamoto, Yukon Tourism’s Market Development Manager for Asia Pacific, at one of the many excellent eateries in Whitehorse. I am sure by the end of the last day he’s heard enough of me espousing the virtues of trekking in Tombstone TP, paddling the mighty Yukon River, and screaming down a steep MTB trail in Carcross, but he politely nods his head in appreciation each time. I mean, after all, he lives here, so he knows just how much of an adventure wonderland the Yukon Territory is and how, for locals, it doesn’t even need to be said, it is just up to us visitors to the Yukon to say it, loudly and appreciatively. If you want to jam the most adventure and excitement into a week or more, then the Yukon Territory can deliver it, and then some.

*This writer travelled as a guest of Travel Yukon. 

Fact file: Travelling to the Yukon Territory

Getting there: This may surprise some, but even though the Yukon Territory seems like it is at the ‘ends of the earth’ it is not – and getting there entails a straightforward journey. Flights connecting Australia’s eastern seaboard (the majority from Sydney) to, firstly, Vancouver, and then directly on to Whitehorse mean you will be absorbing the spectacle that is the Yukon in no time at all. If you fly into Whitehorse on Air North, make sure you try its famous warm cookies. They really are worthy of their reputation, trust us…

Getting around: The roads and highways in the Yukon are excellent and this, along with the long hours of daylight, mean road trips are brilliant fun here. Signposting is in abundance and very clear, and the Yukoners themselves are overwhelmingly friendly and helpful if you do need to ask for directions or tips on where to eat and stay. One thing: don’t forget Canadians drives on the ‘other’ side of the road to us Aussies. It sounds like a big thing but is not at all.

Guided treks: For visitors, heading out on a trek, paddle or MTB ride with a local guiding company (also known as ‘outfitters’ in the Yukon) is a no-brainer.

Trekking in Tombstone: The Klondike Experience offers multi-day (and single day) trekking adventures in Tombstone TP and other areas, along with day trips, excursions to historic sites in and around Dawson City, charter transport, bike rentals and customised tours, Jesse Cooke’s Klondike Experience team are brilliant. 

Yukon River canoe trips: This writer paddled the Yukon River with Sweet River Enterprises (www.yukonriver.com). Other canoe guiding companies that offer trips on the Yukon’s many waterways, include Canadian River Expeditions, Up North Adventures, Kanoe People and Ruby Range Adventure.

Mountain biking: Terra Riders Yukon provides a host of mountain biking adventures, ranging from a day to a week or more of guiding, as well as e-MTB and city cycling tours. It also has a unique Pedal & Paddle Experience, with MTB trails followed by a canoe trip down the Yukon River. (It also offers longer Yukon River canoe trips, too, as well as a cool Aurora Canoe Tour, during aurora viewing season.)

Weather: The Yukon in spring and summer means long days and short nights – especially in mid-summer and more so in the far north of the territory – which means there’s no rush to cram every day full of adventure; there are, literally, plenty of hours in each day. Be aware that in more remote and more northerly locales, weather can change quickly, so be prepared with appropriate clothing. 

Accommodation: As well as the excellent wilderness lodges throughout the territory, the Yukon has options ranging from camping and RV parks and B&Bs, to hostels, hotels, motels, and rentals.

More information: Whether it is suggested visitor itineraries, excellent info on the various parts of the territory, ideas for how to plan for a visit, accommodation links, informative blogs or loads more, the Travel Yukon website is brilliant.

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Huon Valley

Australia’s island state punches well above its weight when it comes to adventure. But there’s also a downside to that fact: plenty of awesome destination options can fail to make their way onto Tassie holiday itineraries already loaded with the state’s bucket list items, such as hiking Cradle Mountain, mountain biking in Derby or paddling the Franklin River.

But if you’re looking for a multifaceted getaway that’s still within easy reach of Hobart, then the Huon Valley has you covered. The Huon Valley Local Government Area covers a massive 5497sq.km – technically encompassing Tasmania’s South West World Heritage Wilderness area, home of the famous South Coast Track, and even administering Macquarie Island, half-way to Antarctica. But for the purposes of this guide, we’ll stick to adventures close to Hobart – and there’s plenty.

The tannin waters of the mighty Huon River, with headwaters at Lake Pedder and flowing into the D’Entrecasteaux Channel past Bruny Island and out to the Tasman Sea, offer plenty of paddling opportunities. Experienced paddlers can find their own way, or companies like Esperance Adventures offer no experience needed guided tours in Tassie’s far south – in the Huon River, Port Esperance Bay, Lune River and Recherche Bay.

The Huon Valley is also home to a few impressive summits – there’s Hartz Peak (1254m) within Hartz Mountains NP, achievable in a day trip. While this is the park’s hero track, there are shorter but equally beautiful hikes if you only have a couple of hours, or are hauling little’uns. Lake Esperance track is mostly boardwalk and finishes with the pretty namesake mountain lake.  

Just outside Hartz Mountains NP is Adamsons Peak (1225m) – another full-day hike but with views of the valley and beyond on a clear day that make the thigh-burn worth the effort. Looking north from the Huon Valley towns of Huonville and Grove, you’ll see a mountain range that locals affectionately call ‘Sleeping Beauty’ for its resemblance to the profile and bust of a reclining woman. She is actually made up of two mountains – Collins Bonnet (the nose, 1261m) and Trestle Mountain (the bust, 1100m), both climbable together in an eight-hour return loop.

If you like to get underground on your getaways, then Hastings Caves State Reserve is home to Australia’s largest dolomite tourist cave, with guided tours on offer. Within the reserve is a thermally heated pool which is a great spot for a dip (and a reprieve from Tassie’s famously brisk waterways), and some short forest strolls, with platypus spotting.

If getting deep underground isn’t your cup of tea, the Huon Valley caters equally to those who want to get high – as in, into the treetops. In recovery from the region’s devastating 2019 bushfires, Tahune Adventures Airwalk offers a different perspective of the region, by taking you 50m above ground on a cantilevered air bridge over both the Huon and Picton rivers. 

Keep heading south and you’ll reach Cockle Creek – the southernmost point you can drive in Australia (and still only two hours drive from Hobart!). The pristine waters are great for fishing and swimming in summer, with free camping available. Keep an eye out for weary hikers, as this is also the finishing point of the challenging 6-8 day South Coast Track. If you want a taste of this famous 85km hike, you can take on the last section with the four-hour South Cape Bay walk. The Huon Valley is also a fertile food-bowl region, so keep a look-out for farm-gate honesty boxes to load up with fresh produce between adrenaline sessions.

Wellington Park

Within easy reach on foot, by bike, or car from Hobart, Wellington Park takes the name from its major attraction, kunanyi / Mount Wellington or simply ‘The Mountain’ as it’s referred to by locals. Standing at 1271 metres, it is the highest peak in the park and provides an impressive view across the Tasman Sea and into the wild South West National Park. Wellington Park’s 18,250 hectares also contains plenty of outdoor activities. 

Pack some warm clothes, bring a lunch and choose from a range of hiking tracks threading the park. Hiking options vary from easy and short hikes in the foothills to challenging tracks deeper into the park. For a relaxing stroll, trail along the Fern Glade Track in the shade of fern trees, past bubbling streams and moss covered rocks. For a steep and rocky walk with great views of nearby cliffs, the East Coast and Hobart, go from The Springs to the Pinnacle via the Zig Zag Track. 

Think ‘mountain’ and rock-climbing comes to mind. Mt Wellington’s claim to vertical fame is the globally recognised Organ Pipes, an expanse of vertical dolerite buttresses high up on its flanks. Climbs available on the crags of the Mountain range from short and hard routes to long multi-pitch and sport climbs. Climbing here is a serious endeavour; you should be well prepared for all kinds of weather and bring appropriate gear. A detailed climbing guide has been put together by local enthusiasts, and that is well worth checking out for the latest beta on climbs in the area.

If your mountain-based activities lean toward two wheels, the MTB trails and cycling routes in the park cover everything from scenic routes (the Pipeline Track is great for families) and cross-country to flowing singletrack (there are four more MTB trails under development here, too). There is even the opportunity for some 4WD touring, with Jefferys Track (north-south between Lachlan and Crabtree – it is a shared track) and the East West Trail, which is a bit more challenging as it takes tourers up into high and remote terrain. 

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A relatively short 200km jaunt southeast of Adelaide, ‘the Coorong’ as it is colloquially known, offers a lot of everything for those looking for outdoor escapes close to the South Oz capital. The fantastic beach driving (the best access point is from Tailem Bend, off the Princes Highway) is an obvious highlight. The ocean beach drive (speed restrictions apply here – please adhere to them) is brilliant but be sure to only tackle it at low tide and stick to the section of beach between the low and high water marks. Keep an eye out for post markers that signal a side-track that will take you to designated campgrounds on the other side of the dunes, offering a modicum of protection from the coastal winds.

The beach is shut down for a short period during spring to assist in the protection of hooded plover nests so check the national parks website for access info (this shutdown covers the section of beach running from the mouth of the Murray River to Tea Tree Crossing). And, lastly, don’t forget some water crossings are tide-dependent.

There is plenty of opportunity to throw a line in, with both beach-based and lagoon-focused fishing on offer (Coorong NP encompasses a lagoon ecosystem; the waters of the Coorong are protected from the Southern Ocean’s swells by the sand dunes of the Younghusband Peninsula). Salmon is a common catch offshore, while flathead and bream are just two species you will find in the Coorong’s calm waters. Please note: fishing is not allowed in the marine park sanctuary zones near here, so check maps first, and always practice catch-and-release unless intending to use your catch for a meal.

The Coorong’s popularity as one of the state’s favourite escapes is reflected in the number of campgrounds in the park, With 14 to choose from (some are 2WD-accessible and some are boat-access only). Spread from Barker Knoll and Godfreys Landing in the north and dotted toward the south along the curve of the Younghusband Peninsula down to the southernmost, 28 Mile Crossing, there are plenty of options for two nights in this coastal wonderland. Facilities vary from campground to campground, with some providing access to bushwalks and the park’s waterways for boating and paddling enthusiasts. 

Speaking of which, in terms of water-based escapes, boaters and kayakers will have a ball here, thanks to the 150km of lagoon (see our ultimate guide to kayaking). The Northern Lagoon and Southern Lagoon are ‘split’ by Parnka Point that nearly touches the peninsula’s Hells Gate, linking up small beaches and the lagoon’s islands, such as Seagull and Wild Dog. There are numerous walks that are accessible to everyone, including the Jack Point Observatory Walk, a 20-minute journey through sand dunes to a lookout positioned over the park’s pelican breeding islands. 

Add the great fishing and family-friendly bushwalking to the fact the Coorong is a haven for birds – more than 200 species have been recorded here – and pile all this on top of beach driving and campgrounds and you’ve got a brilliant city escape in the Coorong.

Ngarkat Conservation Park

For a total contrast to bright lights, busy traffic and bustling city, Ngarkat Conservation Park’s vast outback landscape, a touch over three hours’ drive west of Adelaide along the Mallee Highway, is another of South Oz’s perfect outdoor escapes. The park’s sand dunes, mallee scrub and heathlands ticks all the boxes for a quintessential outback experience. As you’d expect, the park’s location – and weather – means this is one of the country’s desert escapes that is a cool-months destination only. 

Ngarkat CP includes 11 campgrounds (including one that offers caravan sites: Pertendi is located just off the sealed Ngarkat Highway), with the majority being 4WD access only (Pertendi, Nanam Well and Pine Hut soak – both in the northwest section – offer 2WD access, as does Comet Bore, off the Ngarkat Hwy). Most campgrounds in the park are quite small – sites range from unallocated to one through to six sites at Coxs Windmill – ideal sized for those after remote outdoor escapes.

Of course, think of Ngarkat CP and you think of its most famous attraction for 4WD explorers: the Border Track. As the name implies, this north-south track follows the fence line boundary that signifies the Vic/South Oz border. The track is challenging and includes a southbound (from the park’s northern boundary) section that reverts to a two-way track once it joins the Centre Track (around 29km south of the track’s northern startpoint). This is designed to ensure the fragile sand dunes and vegetation are as protected as possible. 

The Border Track isn’t the only exciting touring option in the park; another (for those heading north to south in the park’s western section) is to enter via Pinaroo, but turn toward Pine Hut Soak (rather than the Border Track start-point). From the campground here you can drive south along the Centre Track, stopping along the way for the short (40 minutes return) Orchid Hike that, as the name suggests, leads through a pine forest that contains native orchids – a seeming oddity here in the mallee/desert country. 

As well as off-roading, Ngarkat CP has a load of great bushwalks, ranging from the short (Gosse Hill and Mount Rescue) through to more ‘serious’ treks suited to experienced foot-borne explorers. Pine Hut Soak is the start point for a couple of big ones; the four hour/11km return trek from Pine Hut Soak to Fishponds takes walkers through a sand dune landscape dotted with claypans; the shorter hike to Nanam Well takes you to a restored water well of the same name. 

For the vertically inclined, there is the 1.5-hour trek up to the summit of Mount Shaugh. And keep an eye out for wildlife at any waterholes; this arid country hides a surprising number of native animals, and wildflowers when in season.

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Want one of Queensland’s best outdoor escapes as close as possible to Brisbane? Well, at 40km from the centre of the Sunshine State capital, Moreton Island fits that bill. Moreton Island’s 18,000 hectares contain plenty for a weekend escape, whether you’re a swimmer (the island’s lakes make great swimming spots; confine your surf/beach swimming to the patrolled area at Main Beach), diver, angler (the island is one of Australia’s best fishing escapes), camper, bushwalker or a combo of all of these.

The island is reached via a ferry that runs daily from Brisbane (the Port of Brisbane, to be exact) to the island’s central western coastline (The Wrecks). As expected, the island’s beach-driving conditions are governed heavily by both the tides and the weather; big storms can wash away large sections of beach, so check online at the Queensland Department of Environment and Science’s Parks page for the latest track/beach conditions, and also to book your vehicle access and camping permits. Our tip for a worry-free beach-driving experience is to make sure your planned beach driving happens around two hours either side of low tide only.

The island has five campgrounds, all of which have toilets, showers and bore water (treat or boil before consumption or use with cooking). There are a further five camping ‘zones’. Campfires are not permitted on the beaches (you can have fires in designated fire pits at campgrounds, but will need to bring your own wood), so it is a good idea to bring your camp stove (see here for our expert guide to camp cooking). For anglers, parts of Moreton Island’s coastline are encompassed inside Moreton Bay Marine National Park, so fishing is not allowed in those areas.

In terms of an overnight or weekend drive/camping adventure, we’d head north once the ferry has deposited you and your vehicle at The Wrecks. You have the option here (if the tide dictates) to take the high tide tracks at Cowan Cowan and Cravens Creek and then return to the beach for the rest of the trip north to Bulwer and the pretty Comboyuro Point campground.

The Bulwer North Point Road (sand) takes you across the island’s northern section, passing some beach access tracks along the way (as well as the must-visit Five Hills Lookout, a viewpoint atop a huge sand dune that provides a vista that takes in Heath Island) before you reach two potential overnight stays: Yellow Patch and, just a bit farther along, North Point campgrounds and the island’s famous historic Cape Moreton Lighthouse.

For those towing camper trailers, the best option is to take the Bulwer Blue Lagoon Road to the Blue Lagoon campground and to access the east coast. Time your visit for whale-watching season (June to late October) and you’ll spot those big boppers from here – a definite bonus in one of Australia’s great outdoor escapes. The next day’s drive down the eastern coastline of Moreton is awesome; there are more camping opportunities once you’re south of Spitfire Creek, but we’d continue on to beautiful Blue Lagoon, with its nice campground and fantastic swimming. This lake is the island’s biggest (and often most popular). Also worth a pause as you continue south along this eastern coastline is the Rous Battery site. This World War II defence site is now in ruins, but it offers a great chance to get the young’uns out of the vehicle for a bit of exploration.

For more family entertainment, the Little Sandhills and, a couple of kilometres south of these, the Big Sandhills, offer both great views from their lofty heights (80m-plus) and the chance to try an activity synonymous with outdoor escape on Moreton: sand tobogganing. The island’s southernmost point includes Mirapool Lagoon (a top spot for birdwatchers) and then, on the southwestern side, Kooringal, the landing point for the ferry to North Stradbroke Island. It is here you need to backtrack – the beach north of Kooringal is more challenging (often impassable) so you can backtrack and take the eastern beach-side drive again up to the Middle Track turn-off. This takes you back overland to The Wrecks and the ferry back to Brissy at the end of a special island weekend, done right!

Border Ranges National Park

We’ve snuck south across the border (excuse the pun) to the northern limits of NSW for the second of our Brisbane outdoor escapes. This decision is with good reason: the 31,680-hectare Border Ranges National Park resides here. Located just 2.5 hours from Brisbane, this park is World Heritage-listed for its range of rare and endangered wildlife and flora, has one road (Lions Road) that takes visitors through landscapes ranging from Australia’s largest area of protected sub-tropical rainforest to truly mountainous alpine terrain, and offers brilliant camping.

Accessed from the north via the hamlet of Tamrookum (south of Beaudesert), Lions Road initially crosses the narrow ‘join’ of the park’s west and east sections. It is worth checking out the short track branching off the right-hand side just inside this narrow section, as it leads 200m down to a picnic area that offers views over the Border Loop railway line. This was an engineering marvel in itself; crews of workers shovelled, dug and exploded their way through the mountains, building a tunnel to join the NSW and Queensland ends of the rail line together more than 80 years ago.

Once back on Lions Road, you continue south parallel to the western border of the park’s eastern section, before turning left onto Wiangaree Forest Road and entering the park proper, where you pay your vehicle/visitor registration fees (visit the NSW National Parks website for fees and info).

The popular Sheepstation Creek campground is just north of the entrance and provides access to a number of short bushwalks including the must-do Palm Forest Walk, a 2km loop along a long-disused bullock track to Brushbox Falls and then onto a large grove of the walk’s namesake bangalow palms. This campground’s sites are well away from each other and screened by natural vegetation, making it a great ‘base camp’ for exploration of this park. One last and much shorter walk worth your effort is the Red Cedar Loop, a 750-metre stroll to see one of the few – and massive – red cedar trees that escaped the timber industry. It is impressive.

The main track through the park – Tweed Range Scenic Drive – joins Sheepstation Creek campground to Forest Tops before following the ever-higher escarpment as it winds eastward toward the aptly named Lookout Point. This is the first of a number of escarpment-based lookouts – others include The Pinnacle (reached via a short walk) and, further south, Blackbutt Lookout. If you can, try and spend an early morning sunrise at The Pinnacle. This will give you what NSW NPWS rates as “the best views of the crater escarpment, Wollumbin-Mount Warning and the coast”.

Between the diverse landscapes and plethora of wildlife (quolls, koalas, boobooks, Albert’s lyrebirds, tawny frogmouths, numerous reptiles and more), rugged Border Ranges NP makes one of Brisbane’s close escapes a true Lost World, and it is only a few hours’ drive from the city.

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Three hours northwest of Melbourne, Grampians (Gariwerd) National Park has something for everyone, whether you’re a keen hiker, cyclist (both road and MTB routes are found inside the park), four-wheel drive tourer, or just want to sit back with at camp and watch the sun set over some of this country’s most dramatic mountain ranges. It is one of Australia’s best outdoor escapes. The park’s landscape is dominated by sandstone rock formations, interspersed with lakes and waterfalls, and contains plenty of evidence of aboriginal habitation; a number of rock art sites are dotted around the park. (The park accounts for around 80 per cent of Victoria’s Indigenous rock art.)

From Melbourne, Grampians NP is best accessed from the township of Halls Gap, on the park’s eastern boundary, off Grampians Tourist Road, reached via the Western Highway, through the township of Dunkeld to the south of the park. Halls Gap is a great place to grab last-minute supplies, and it is home to the excellent Brambuk (the National Park and Cultural Centre) that contains loads of maps, walk guides, and park info and permits.

To explore the park, your best bet is to tackle it in sections, with the southern, central and northern Grampians offering unique experiences. The park is popular and thankfully Parks Victoria (unlike its neighbouring state directly north) understands the appeal of actually camping in national parks and offers 10 vehicle-based campgrounds (bookings apply for seven of these). Once you’ve sorted your permits and checked out Brambuk, we reckon heading west is the best way to immerse yourself quickly in the park’s speccy natural attractions.

Following the Northern Grampians Road west you soon come to the Boroka Lookout side-trip which is a cracker; with the peaks of the Mount William and Wonderland ranges, as well as Halls Gap itself, all visible from this lofty viewpoint, it’s a nice early taster. From here you return to what becomes Rocks Road when you turn (and continue) west, passing Reeds Lookout and then – just nearby – a turn-off to Bluff Lookout and a grand sight: MacKenzie Falls. Here, you can opt to check out this wild waterfall’s cascading descent into the river of the same name (it is a 1.9km return/40minute amble to the lookout), or you can head to Broken Falls Lookout (from the same carpark) for similar views. For the more adventurous, you can tackle the trek to the base of the waterfall, a 2km, relatively steep 1.5-hour-return tramp, accessed via a signposted walking track near Cranages Lookout after you return to the main carpark.

For your weekend, a night has to be spent at Buandik Campground. Continuing on from the MacKenzie Falls side-trip you will follow Wallaby Rocks Road further west before looping south. The final side-trip before camp is the spectacular Billimina Shelter Rock Art Site. You can stop here and walk in to view the art or continue on to Buandik Campground and then tackle the 45-minute return walk to the site. Just south of the campground, via Harrop Track, you will also find Manja Shelter Rock Art Site. The park is full of bushwalks such as these, but for the really keen/experienced bushwalkers, there is the new multi-day Grampians Peaks Trail, a 12-day trek from one end of the park to the other. If you have the time to come back for a longer visit, this one is worth a crack, for sure.

The High Country outdoor escapes

The Victorian High Country (in the state’s north-east) is full of outdoor escapes and is only a couple of hours’ drive north of Melbourne. It is chock-full of cycling and hiking adventures, for all ages and experience levels. For road cyclists, the lofty peaks offer some amazing climbs, with all that effort offset by the alpine landscape you ride through. For families that include little’uns, Victoria’s northeast can lay claim to the largest rail trail network in the southern hemisphere, with not only the Murray to Mountains, but the Great Victorian Rail Trail and the High Country Rail Trail. These rail trails are ideal for family cycling thanks to the relatively flat terrain (click here to read about Australia’s best family rides).

A number of alpine resorts (Dinner Plain, Falls Creek and Mt Buller) dotted across the high ranges offer excellent MTB trail networks for the spring/summer/autumn season, with riding ranging from cross-country through to epic downhill runs. Mt Buller Resort contains one of the southern hemisphere’s only IMBA (International Mountain Bike Association) EPIC trails – and it is a 40km doozy that every Aussie mountain biker should ride at least once in their life. Beechworth and Bright also offer excellent knobby-tyre adventures (with the bonus of being able to celebrate your day on the bike at some awesome craft breweries – Bright Brewery is brilliant). 

Walking in the Vic High Country provides equally sublime experiences with, again, myriad options for all ages. For the keen and experienced walkers, the three-day (37km) Falls to Hotham Alpine Crossing is an absolute belter. Over the three days you will traverse mountains, alpine plains and then descend heavily forested alpine valleys to amble alongside clear mountain streams. Those with less time can still get their walking experience in, thanks to short walks at most of the alpine resorts, as well as a number that start from (or are near) the region’s towns, such as Bright, Harrietville, Myrtleford and others.

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Coolah Tops National Park

One of NSW’s lesser-known national parks, Coolah Tops offers a brilliant long weekend escape for families. About five hours drive from Sydney, via Coolah, the park packs in a ton of attractions, such as what are claimed to be the world’s tallest snow gums, massive grass trees, the largest population of our biggest possum (the greater glider) and beautiful waterfalls.

Coolah Tops NP is a rugged plateau that sits between the Great Dividing and Warrambungle ranges and surrounded as it is by grazing country. The tracks in the park are pretty tame, although they can be slippery after rain. There are numerous side-tracks branching off the main Forest Road. One, Talabragar River Road, is reached around 11km from the park entrance and is roughly 3km in length, taking you through dense, lush forest to a small carpark. From here you walk to a lookout that offers a view over Talabragar Falls. Other waterfalls inside the park include Rocky Falls, Bald Hill Creek Falls (both at the edge of the northern plateau) and Norfolk Falls. 

A park highlight is its population of snow gums, with the Snow Gum Walking Track in the eastern section taking visitors through a large population of these eucalypts. Owing to the fact the park is subalpine, the snow gums thrive here – and reach heights unknown anywhere else in the state. The theory is the park is high enough for the snow gums to grow, but not too high to impede growth. Rather than the stunted, twisted examples synonymous with Australia’s alpine regions, the snow gums here are straight and tall. 

For keen bushwalkers and mountain bikers, there are some great routes to choose from, such as Racecourse and Grasstrees trails for walkers, and Mullion and Bundella trails for cyclists (walkers can also use these trails). None of them are arduous, making them ideal for all ages and abilities. 

Coolah Tops NP has three campgrounds and one unique accommodation option: Brackens Hut. The campgrounds – Coxs Creek, The Barracks and The Pines – are free; Coxs Creek and The Barracks are both located off Pinnacles Road, with The Barracks being slightly larger than Coxs, but Coxs has the appeal of Coxs Creek Falls nearby.  The Pines campground is next to Forest Road, and is the park’s largest. For those keen on reliving a bit of history, you can stay at restored Brackens Hut. 

Pinnacle Lookout is accessed via the road of the same name and is 5km from The Barracks campground. Once you reach the Pinnacle carpark, it is a 500m walk along a flat track to the edge of the plateau. From here on a clear day you’ll see the rugged ramparts of the Warrambungles to the north-west, and may spot a wedge-tailed eagle. Oh, and do yourself a favour on the way home: stop in for a coldie and lunch at one of Coolah’s awesome pubs. 

Barrington Tops National Park and Chichester State Forest

Visitors to Barrington Tops NP and neighbouring Chichester State Forest, around three hours’ drive north of Sydney, are spoilt for choice with what is on offer here for the outdoor family. Fantastic camping (including some of Australia’s highest-altitude campgrounds), bushwalks, mountain biking, fishing, spectacular rainforest (including gigantic Antarctic beech trees) and sweeping vistas mean a long weekend will barely do it justice. 

From Sydney, these destinations are best accessed from the south via the township of Dungog; Chichester SF’s eastern (Telegherry) section (it is split by a southern section of Barrington Tops NP) is only around 20km north from Dungog (via Chichester Dam Road, then Wangat Road) and offers four riverside campgrounds (check access before you visit; heavy rain can cut these off). Each of the campgrounds in the Telegherry section offer direct access to the river of the same name, so bring your canoe and swimmers; Frying Pan Creek and Coachwood campgrounds are close together and reasonably spacious, so are great for larger groups. For those wishing to escape the crowds, we’d recommend Currawong Camping Area. This remote, 4WD-only campground offers brilliant swimming and canoeing in the Telegherry River. 

The state forest’s western section – Allyn River – is a 40km north of Gresford, 28km west of Dungog. You will find three large campgrounds – Dobbie Rim, Pademelon and Old Camp – all of which offer spacious sites. Just north of Old Camp is Ladies Well, a beautiful swimming hole on the Allyn River that is perfect for families.

World Heritage-listed Barrington Tops NP is best accessed via the town of Gloucester. There are campgrounds aplenty throughout the park. The Barrington Trail is a seasonal 4WD track (October-May) that runs south along the plateau from the Bar-rington Trail picnic area off the Forest Road. This 15km route provides access to Little Murray and Junction Pools campgrounds, as well as Mt Barrington Picnic area. Little Murray campground is the launch point for the walk to Careys Peak Lookout, with its epic views, while Junction Pools offers great swimming and trout fishing. It also provides access to the 12km-return Aeroplane Hill track for hikers, or you can just sit in camp and watch the local wildlife forage in the sub-alpine grasslands. Keen cyclists can ride the Barrington Trail; base yourself at Junction Pools and set off on a half-day ride on the Trail with the kids.

Bushwalking here ranges from short walks, through to day walks, such as the excellent Gloucester Tops Circuit. This half-day walk takes in three separate sights – Gloucester Falls, the River Walking Track, and the Antarctic Beech Forest Track. All of these walks can be done separately. For the more serious walkers there are overnight routes and multi-day epics that traverse the entire mountain range and drop down to the lowlands. 

Canberra outdoor escapes

The Snowy Mountains

The ‘Snowies’ are chock-full of outdoor opportunities year-round. Located around two hours from Canberra, via the Monaro Highway, this mountainous region includes adventure towns such as Jindabyne, Cooma and the village of Thredbo (plus, on the way, there is Brindabella National Park – another mountain playground for Canberra residents, abutting the city’s southern suburbs). Spend a few days seeking your adrenalin fix down here and it will just be a taste of the vast amount of fun on offer, making the perfect excuse for a return trip.

Of course, the region’s ski fields are the big winter attraction for those looking for a short escape from our nation’s capital, and from June to September (sometimes into October) you can pick from a number of ski resorts down there, including Thredbo and Perisher. If you’re an experienced skier, the Snowy Mountains’ back-country also beckons, with world-class routes down some incredibly picturesque (and remote and rugged) peaks.
From October to May, the Snowy Mountains region is adventure central; activities include mountain biking, road cycling, hiking, fly-fishing, paddling, swimming, 4WD touring, and brilliant camping. If you don’t want to camp, there is excellent town-based accommodation at Thredbo, Jindabyne and Cooma, ranging from swish hotels to fantastic caravan parks.

The walk to the summit of Mt Kosciuszko is a must. From the top of the chairlift begins a medium-difficulty climb to mainland Australia’s highest peak. The three- to four-hour round trip covers spectacular alpine terrain and the view from the top lookout, across the roof of Australia, is unforgettable. Guided walks are available from Thredbo and hikes to Charlotte Pass and Blue Lake are worth checking out as well.

Bike trails around Thredbo, Jindabyne and Cooma are suitable for everyone from beginners to pros and the trail networks here have grown significantly over the last few years (especially in Cooma and Jindabyne), so there’s plenty to keep the MTBer busy. Thredbo’s trail network is awesome; whether you’re a beginner or hardcore downhiller, the resort’s MTB trail network – one of Australia’s best – is ever-expanding (more trails just opened in 2021/22), with the extension of the Thredbo Valley Trail (dubbed the Lower Thredbo Valley Trail and created by NSW National Parks & Wildlife Service as it runs through Kosciuszko NP) the latest example. Add in the long, winding sealed roads that link a number of smaller alpine towns together for road-based cyclists, and the Snowy Mountains region will satisfy the most discerning two-wheeled tourist. For those interested in paddling one of the country’s iconic rivers, Alpine River Adventures offers five- or six-day journeys along remote sections of the Snowy River (read about our trip down the Byadbo Wilderness section of the Snowy, here).

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Forbes: Mountain biking heaven

For mountain bikers, the 29km of trails in Back Yamma State Forest are an absolute must-explore. These trails are about 40 minutes east of town, via the Escort Way, then left on to Parkes-Eugowra Road. For families who love their bike riding, it’s hard to beat staying in Forbes itself (there are some brilliant accommodation options in town) or out at this 4,400-hectare state forest, camped right next to those trails. The forest’s trail network itself is comprised of Green and Blue grade trails, making it ideal for the very young shredders in your family, through to the more experienced riders. The trails are also known for being relatively flat and slightly undulating, meaning they are fast – perfect for the experienced rider to test their skills on. 

So how does a remote trail network, next to one of Central NSW’s coolest towns, become so highly regarded by Aussie mountain bikers? Well, for a number of years it has been the location of the Back Yamma Big Foot mountain bike race, with competitors ranging from parents and their kids, through to (in previous years) Jason English, the then-current 24-hour Solo Mountain Bike World Champion. If you’re keen to camp in Back Yamma State Forest, you can do so for free – there are no camp fees. The state forest is also pet-friendly (you can bring your trail dog if you want!) and there are gas barbecues at the campground.

Water, water everywhere

Other outdoor playgrounds found in Forbes are its waterways, including the Forbes Ski Dam, in town itself, and the Lachlan River. As well as a swim in the lake,  you can fish and paddle there, too. Plus, there’s the option of exploring the 10km of walking and cycling paths that surround it.

This path features lighting (solar-powered) for a night walk if you so desire, and there is a barbecue area there, too. The Lachlan River gives you the chance to drop a line in and try and catch dinner, or you can tackle some water skiing along this famous waterway. Alternatively, you can lower the pace a bit and explore the river in a canoe or kayak.  

If you need a break from all that pedalling and paddling, don’t forget that Forbes is home to the Gum Swamp Wetland, an ephemeral wetland that offers a habitat for loads of native wildlife and vegetation. This pristine area is only four kilometres south-west of the town centre, just off the Newell Highway (via Greens Road). The wetland has includes three new double-storey bird hides, on the edge of the swamp, and there’s 1.5km of accessible boardwalk and pathways. And yeah, we agree; three days here is not nearly enough!

See Amazing Forbes for more info on this fantastic Central NSW destination.

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The prefecture is stunning in all seasons, with a mild climate making it the perfect region to travel year-round. However, if you’re looking for a mixture of summer beach and mountain activities, Kumamoto is ready and waiting. Here are some of the best ways to get in on the action for those with a spirit for adventure.

Ride the firebreak of the Aso Caldera

Created by an eruption 90,000 years ago, the Aso Caldera and central lake that filled the caldera 8000 years ago, has been continuously inhabited for 30,000 years – generations of residents turning what was a muddy swamp into rich, cultivated land. During this time, the locals have managed the grasslands with controlled burns to help it regrow in the spring and summer. In March every year, once the grass has dried out, they perform this ‘noyaki’ process, with villagers walking along the approximate 500km of circular ‘wachi’ firebreak paths with sticks in hand to stop the fire from spreading to the forest on the rim of the caldera.

With the aid of e-mountain bikes and a guide leading the way, this exciting firebreak ride will take you along these age-old rolling wachi paths on the edge of one of Japan’s largest grasslands. The perfectly round green hills are almost Martian, reminiscent of an AI-generated stock photo when seen close-up.

Early August is the best time to explore the firebreaks as the grass is still short and panoramic views are plentiful. Still, every season has its highlights – autumn brings flowers and insects, winter brings snow, and the blackened hills after the controlled burn create a surreal contrast with the spring scenery in March. As well as tours around the perimeter of the caldera, there is also a one-day mountain-biking course to the active volcano crater itself.

Hike the Mennoishi trekking route

Unknown to even most locals, the Mennoishi trekking route was only possible with a professional guide until last year, but the path has been upgraded and it’s now possible to hike it unassisted. Mennoishi, literally translated as the ‘stone of immunity,’ was, until the 2016 Kumamoto earthquake, wedged on the edge of a cave in between two cliffs 40m into the air and was believed by locals to be lucky. People would come to pray to it for success in anything from sitting for exams, finding work or even being appointed in local elections. During the earthquake, it was dislodged, but this created another fortuitous likeness, that of a cat.

The hiking route starts on a winding access path through the trees, quickly turning into a hiking trail akin to an adventure park, with ladders to climb and metal chains to cling to as you make your way up through the dense forest. For those who want to make it to the top but aren’t cut out for the climbing sections, a ‘safe’ route is available, which winds its way alongside the steps and ladders. It takes roughly 1.5 hours (with multiple breaks included), and there is an abundance of ferns, flowers and moss-covered monoliths to examine on the way. If an instagrammable silhouette of a cat isn’t your style, the hike is worth it alone for the panoramic views afforded at a lookout almost at the top of the trail.

Raft the Kumagawa River

Strap on your lifejacket and prepare to get wet as experienced guides take you along one of the few river-rafting locations in Kyushu. Commercial rafting tours have been popular on the Kumagawa River for 20 years, and it’s easy to see why. The wide river allows for a range of conditions, from short sections of rapids to deep pools where you can jump into the water and float down peacefully, listening to the sounds of the surroundings. The combination of exciting fast flows with slower sections – exhibiting rich birdlife and nature – makes for an outstanding rafting experience, especially when compared to tours that focus on white-knuckle excitement and spills the whole way down.

Only two years ago, the river flooded and some were doubtful whether it would even be possible to rebuild and continue with commercial tours. The flooding was extensive and the aftermath of the flood can still be seen today, with pylons reaching out of the river to where a train bridge had previously been. But the workers at Kumagawa Kudari have put a lot of effort into reviving the industry, with the fully renovated Hassenba base providing relaxing views of the river and fantastic food courtesy of the Kyushu Pancake Company. Many regular visitors love rafting in the summer, when the bright blue summer sky, tree-covered hills and crystal-clear river create breathtaking visual panoramas. As well as rafting tours, Hassenba also offers more leisurely boat tours so you can take in the beauty of the river and its surrounds at any pace. Cycling tours are also available from October–June.  

Kayak to the islands of Amakusa

Amakusa, to the west of Kumamoto City, consists of a chain of over 100 islands, the majority of which are uninhabited and can only be accessible by boat. And this is where Funa-san, a kayak tour company owner, found his calling. Before he became a sea kayak tour guide, Funa-san would kayak along the Kumagawa River on some weekends and go snorkelling and scuba diving in Amakusa on others. In his mind, kayaking was for rivers, and snorkelling was for the ocean, but one day he borrowed a sea kayak from a friend and discovered that Amakusa was the perfect middle ground. So at age 35, he left his advertising sales job in the city and decided to do what he loved by starting a sea kayak tour company in Amakusa.

The waters of Amakusa have the most extreme tidal range of any in Japan, which changes daily. Jump in a sea kayak and make your way out to these stunning islands as you learn about the geography and history of the area. The waters of Amakusa are famous for dolphin watching, with pods of hundreds of dolphins calling the area home, and they also play host to large stingrays and (non-poisonous!) jellyfish. In contrast to the white water rafting of the Kumagawa, this is a far more relaxed affair, with plenty of time to take in the picturesque surroundings and cool down in secluded bays. Funa-san says Amakusa is unique in that once you arrive, there are so many things to do in such a small area, including snorkelling, scuba diving, cycling, parasailing and trekking, as well as great restaurants and hotels.

This article was brought to you by Kumamoto Prefectural Tourism Federation.

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A must-do during your stay at Kingfisher Bay Resort is the Ranger-guided canoe paddle that takes participants from the jetty to pristine Dundonga Creek. Along the way, you’ll learn about the eight species of mangrove that make up the beautiful mangrove colony, while also getting the chance to spot wildlife ranging from sea birds and raptors to fish, rays, dolphins and even the shy dugong. The paddle takes an hour, making it ideal for those with little explorers.

For a larger view and understanding of the island the Sea Explorer West Coast Cruise, aboard the custom-built Osprey is a no-brainer. Aboard this vessel, you will be joined by a ranger who, along with the skipper, guides you around the UNESCO-awarded Great Sandy Biosphere. Again, wildlife spotting will be at a premium, with the opportunity to spot birdlife, turtles, dolphins and more. You’ll get the chance to explore some of the island’s famous beaches and indulge in a dip in some of the pristine waterways, too. At three hours, this marine adventure is perfect for visitors looking to get out and enjoy all this amazing island has to offer. 

See Kingfisher Bay Resort for info on all the resort’s activities and its accommodation.

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Paparoa Track, South Island, New Zealand

New Zealand’s latest Great Walk (the 10th Great Walk, in fact) is a shared-use (hikers and MTB) extravaganza that takes ‘trampers’ (Kiwi-speak for bushwalkers) across the Paparoa Range and through the ruggedly spectacular landscape that is Paparoa National Park, on the wild west coast of New Zealand’s South Island. It can be walked all year round.

As a Department of Conservation (DOC) Great Walk, the 55.1km Paparoa Track is very well constructed and the three DOC Great Walk huts along the track are brilliant, featuring the usual bunk beds (with mattresses), gas cooking outlets, heating and (non-flush) toilets. There’s also water on tap (this is untreated so be sure to boil before use). As with all of NZ’s Great Walks, you need to book hut tickets before you go (online Great Walks bookings for 2022/23 open early May 2022) but once that’s sorted, you just have to focus on what is a brilliant three-day walking experience (there’s also a four-day guided version).

The Paparoa Track is best walked south-to-north, from Smoke-ho car park (near Blackball, 45 mins drive from Greymouth) and actually starts with walkers traversing the historic Croesus Track (a relic of the region’s goldrush days) and climbs to Ces Clark Hut before you traverse alpine terrain (scrub and tussock) while copping some cracking views to the Tasman Sea. Moonlight Hut is the first night’s accommodation before you tackle the escarpment and then descend through podocarp forest to Pororari Hut. 

The final day means more descending through gorge country and beech forest before reaching the junction with the Inland Pack Track, and then dropping down to the beautiful Pororari River and on to the finish-point of Waikori Road car park. (Mountain bikers split off at the junction of the Inland Pack Track and ride through the Punakaiki River valley to reach the car park.)

The Paparoa Track is yet another example of how well NZ’s Department of Conservation has nailed the walking experience and, for those who have already ‘done the Great Walks’ this new one is a must to add to that list.

Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada

The tallest mountains in Canada are found in Kluane National Park and Reserve, in the Yukon Territory. The highest of them all (and the second highest in North America) is Mount Logan, at 5959 metres. In the summer, Kluane NP comes alive with sunshine, songbirds, and wildflowers, and becomes the ultimate backcountry hiking destination, offering an alpine and sub-alpine landscape for hikers of all levels, from day hikes to multi-day treks.

Hiking is Kluane’s most popular activity. Opportunities range from short strolls to multi-day route-finding adventures. Whether you get out for an hour, a day, or a week, there is much to explore in Kluane NP. Start at the Parks Canada Visitor Centre in Haines Junction to get your bearings and then explore the network of hiking and biking tails, keeping your eyes peeled for mountain goats and Dall sheep along the way. 

Parks Canada maintains the park in a natural state, with very few man-made structures. Beginner to intermediate hikers will have easy access to a wide range of trails which are graded for length and difficulty. Experienced hikers can journey deep into remote areas where there are only routes rather than trails. These journeys involve no-trace camping and require map reading and navigation skills as well as being confident to cross creeks or rivers where there are no foot bridges. Depending on the route, hikers will experience views of hanging glaciers, cirques, and mountain vistas in every direction. It’s also possible to start hikes further into the park with a floatplane ride – one such route is the epic 96 km Donjek, which brings hikers to the toe of the massive Donjek Glacier.

The Auriol Trail in Kluane NP is a moderate loop that takes in pristine boreal forest, sub-alpine terrain and epic mountain slopes. The park is teeming with wildlife, including Dall sheep, caribou, moose, grizzlies and black bears, as well as smaller mammals and plenty of birdlife. Hike the loop in four hours or take your time and spend the day enjoying the vistas over Haines Junction and the distant Ruby Ranges. Serious hikers can use this route to access the more challenging Quill Peak and Mt. Martha Black. 

As the name suggests, Sheep Creek Trail is ideal for viewing Dall sheep in the spring. The trail incorporates several beautiful viewpoints of the Slims River Valley, and even the famous Kaskawulsh Glacier. Feeling energetic? Continue along the Thechàl Dhâl Ridge route to the top of Thechàl Dhâl (Sheep Mountain). You’ll be rewarded with stunning views of Kluane Lake, Outpost Mountain, Red Castle Ridge, the Ruby Range and Sheep-Bullion Plateau.

The campground next to Kathleen Lake, just south of Haines Junction, is the perfect pitstop. The area features several hiking trails and a boat launch for anyone with a hankering for rainbow trout. Challenge yourself to make the ascent to the King’s Throne nestled in an amphitheatre of rocky ridges. Make it all the way to the summit an you’ll be rewarded with endless views of valleys, rivers, lakes, and mountains. – Pip Macken

Bike

Old Ghost Road, South Island, New Zealand

NZ’s South Island is jam-packed with awesome mountain biking with a plethora of trail choices for all rider skill levels. The 85km Old Ghost Road, in the South Island’s north-west corner, is a true bucket-list adventure for experienced mountain bikers. It is an old gold miners’ road that has been developed (by a primarily volunteer workforce that has done an exemplary job) into an awesome combined MTB/hiking route, linking the Mokihinui River in the north, with an old miner’s dray road in the Lyell region to the south, travelling via four old mining ghost towns along the way.

If you’re fit, the Old Ghost Road can be ridden over two to four days, with the preferred direction being south to north (from Lyell campground, and finishing at Seddonville). The first climb is a big one – 18km and ascending a total of 765m to Lyell Saddle Hut. You can either stay here or continue on another 12km to Ghost Lake Hut and enjoy its all-encompassing views. It’s a brilliant first night and leads into an epic second day of 13km of descending (around 800m) along technical trail, before negotiating the exposed Skyline Steps and then continuing on the bike, following a flowing trail to Stern Valley Hut. From here, you go through Earnest Valley and then climb a bit more, before descending again to Goat Creek Hut, 14km beyond Stern Valley Hut. After around six hours since Ghost Lake Hut, it’s a welcome overnight stop. From here you ride through podocarp forest to Mokihinui Forks (there is a NZ DOC hut here) and then further along (after a left turn) you’ll reach Specimen Point Hut at the head of Mokihinui River Gorge. From this hut, it’s all systems go to reach the ocean, jumping on and off the old miners’ road through the gorge before reaching Seddonville and trail’s end.

It’s a challenging few days on a mountain bike, but you will be so enraptured by the landscape you’re riding through – and the views – you’ll forget all the hard stuff and just enjoy the Old Ghost Road for what it is: an epic MTB adventure.

Sun Peaks Resort, British Columbia, Canada

British Columbia is considered a mecca of mountain biking, with Vancouver’s famous North Shore, the Sea to Sky Corridor and Whistler Bike Park all on most Aussie MTBers’ bucket lists. Now, they can add one more: Sun Peak Resort’s Bike Park. This MTB trail bonanza is located 45 minutes north-east of Kamloops, renowned as the birthplace of freeride MTB (and where original free-riders, Wade Simmons, Brett Tippie and Richie Schley grew up). 

Sun Peaks Bike Park (part of the larger resort) has offered excellent mountain biking for years but has recently finished a trail expansion stage, timed to open for the northern hemisphere summer, thanks to a $1.5million investment (in the resort and the community). The $1.5 million includes a vital $200,000 through the Targeted Regional Tourism Development Initiative and $297,875 from the British Columbia’s Community Economic Recovery Infrastructure Program, along with a contribution of $150,000 from Tourism Sun Peaks. This includes summer chairlift access to high trailheads, and 31km of new trails. The big one is a second chairlift for access to the Bike Park on Sundance Mountain, which includes six new trails. 

The 19km of trail-work here includes trails for everyone from beginner to expert. The park’s Sundance area will include two new black trails (with one advanced jump trail), two blue and two green (beginner) trails, and a green trail that takes riders from top to bottom.

The Bike Park riding experience will be further enhanced (in the future) with singletrack that captures the region’s distinctive raw-trail feel (think: rooty, challenging and fun) that has seen it become a must-visit for both local and international riders.

Sun Peaks’ expansion plans include cross-country and enduro pedal access trails, as well. An extra 12km of hand- and machine-built trails will open in stages this northern hemisphere summer on Mt Morrisey and include a 2km viewpoint trail (shared with hikers), a 6km climb trail (also shared) and a 4km downhill.

For Aussie riders looking to pack their bike and jump on a BC-bound plane for that once-in-a-lifetime dream trip to some of the world’s most iconic MTB destinations, these new developments at Sun Peaks Resort have given them another perfect reason to do so. 

Paddle

The Upper Shoalhaven River Gorge, NSW, Australia

There’s a world-class paddling destination that is tucked away in a little pocket of Australia’s east coast, two hours south of Sydney and two hours northeast of Canberra. The village of Kangaroo Valley is a stunning destination in its own right, but it also serves as the gateway to arguably the most scenic flatwater paddling destination in NSW: The Upper Shoalhaven River Gorge.  

The Shoalhaven River flows 327kms from the Great Dividing Range, east of Cooma, dropping 865m to the ocean at Shoalhaven Heads. Toward the end of the river’s journey, its waters are impounded by Tallowa Dam, below its confluence point with the Kangaroo River. The resulting backwater is called Lake Yarrunga, which provides over 50kms of flatwater paddling with loads of campsite options. The Upper Shoalhaven Gorge is in the western-most part of the lake.

Kangaroo Valley is home to Valley Outdoors; a multi-activity adventure company that offers guided multi-day canoeing experiences in this amazing wilderness. Using timber paddles from Canada, open traditional canoes from the USA, and paddling techniques honed throughout history, you’ll feel as close to the roots of canoeing tradition as possible; short of making the canoe yourself. You’ll be given waterproof barrels to pack your gear, a comfortable life jacket to wear, and a kneeling mat to use if you’re keen to paddle in a traditional kneeling position. Your qualified and experienced guide will orientate you to your surroundings and equip you with the knowledge and skill to pack your canoe and safely depart the shore. Once on the water, you’ll receive top-level paddling instruction in order to fully control your craft along the journey.  

After putting in, it’s only a few hundred metres before the dam is no longer visible and the true beauty of the Shoalhaven Gorge lies before you. Multiple layers of towering sandstone cliffs sit atop impossibly-steep hillsides, the vegetation changes in each gully, revealing pockets of temperate rainforest species. After good rainfall, countless waterfalls stream from the hillsides. Wildlife abounds: water dragons, goannas and superb lyrebirds are commonly seen, while azure kingfishers regularly dart along the bank, and wedge-tailed eagles and white-bellied sea eagles are almost a guaranteed sight. More recently, dingoes have been spotted. 

The team at Valley Outdoors believe a multi-day trip in the Upper Shoalhaven Gorge is the best way to experience the magic it has to offer.  Its all-inclusive tours are also inclusive of all abilities; a multi-day canoe journey is well-suited to extended/intergenerational families. The guides take you to hidden waterfalls and swimming holes as well as tucked-away caves and the best campsites. A night or two on a canoeing trip in the Upper Shoalhaven Gorge will leave you awestruck, probably exhausted, but fully refreshed and re-centred. As the “Father of National Parks”, John Muir, said: “The rivers flow not past but through us.” –Travis Frenay

The Yukon Territory, Canada

If there’s an outdoor activity that could be classified as synonymous with the Yukon Territory, it would have to be paddling. The canoe is, of course, a Canadian icon – and the Yukon has myriad rivers and lakes suited to this craft – but there is also plenty of kayaking (both flat and white-water) and rafting available on several rivers, too. It really is a matter of “picking your poison” in terms of finding a waterway and it all starts with the territory’s namesake river…

The Yukon River is one of the canoeing world’s most famous bucket-list journeys and, if you have the time, the journey from Whitehorse north to Dawson City, replicating the route taken by the ‘stampeders’ in the goldrush era as they rushed to the Klondike goldfields, is brilliant. The ‘Full Monty’ version of this journey takes between 14 and 20 days – and we’d highly recommend going with an experienced guiding company, simply to ensure all logistics are taken care of and you can just enjoy paddling. For those with less time, you can opt to paddle either the Whitehorse to Carcross leg, or the Carcross to Dawson City one. Of course, even a day paddling this famous river is great fun and there are plenty of operators who provide guided day paddles, or canoe hire for those wishing to tackle the big river independently (with a pick-up and return to Whitehorse at the end of the day). Other longer canoe adventures include the Snake, Wind, Big Salmon, Bonnet Plume and Nisutlin rivers.

In terms of day trips, along with the Yukon there are a number of other fantastic canoe rivers, such as the Takhini and the Wheaton – both close enough to Whitehorse to enable them being tackled as guided day paddles, or independent. Their relative proximity to Whitehorse means you can be back, regaling fellow travellers with your canoe adventure anecdotes that evening, while enjoying a local beer and excellent meal. 

Whitewater rafting is also very popular in the Yukon, with the multi-day, guided white-water adventure on the Tatshenshini River is probably the territory’s most famous. The Tatshenshini is a Canadian Heritage River (due to its recreational and cultural significance) that flows through the world’s largest bio-reserve as it travels from the Yukon to British Columbia, before finishing at Alaska and the Pacific Ocean. Yes, it is massive, both in size, the gobsmacking land you float past (think: glaciers, icebergs, and wild forest), and the experience itself, with wildlife in abundance and pristine river-side campsites each night. 

You don’t have to spend multiple days on the water to enjoy the iconic Yukon rafting experience, however. A number of guiding outfits offer day trips along parts of the Tatshenshini, as well as the Liard and, close to Whitehorse (on Skagway Road), the thrill-packed Tutshi, with its journey from tranquil lakes to faster water and then adrenalin-filled runs through rapids inside a river canyon. 

Dream Adventure

Hurtigruten Norwegian Coastal Express

Now this would have to qualify as close to the ultimate bucket-list adventure: iconic adventure travel company, Hurtigruten, offers a small group adventure (24 maximum) to explore Norway and view the spectacular Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis). 

You’ll be escorted on your search for the Northern Lights by local expert guides who were born and raised on the very coast that you’ll discover. Available as north or southbound itineraries, the former will have you departing from Norway’s capital Oslo where a grand city tour awaits. Your sea/land voyage incorporates a ride on the Flam Railway – one of the world’s most famous train journeys – a ferry through magnificent fjords, and the iconic Hurtigruten coastal voyage – loved for almost 130 years by Norwegians and tourists alike. 

Exploring the region like a local, you’ll visit charming hamlets, picturesque fjords, cross the Arctic Circle and witness the magnificent Northern Lights. Along the way you’ll ride husky sleighs, spend the night in a glass igloo and explore the Medieval town of Tallin in Estonia before wrapping up the tour in Helsinki. If by chance the lights do not appear on your trip, you’ll receive a six- or seven-day classic cruise for free thanks to Hurtigruten’s unique Northern Lights Promise. 

Hurtigruten has cultivated strong partnerships with local producers and suppliers along the coast. This means that your on-board cuisine will be created from the freshest local ingredients, straight from the source. From fresh Arctic char, king crab, smoked sausages, award-winning cheese, local brews and spirits, you are fortunate enough to enjoy beautiful local foodstuffs with the amazing views.

Our world is as fragile as it is beautiful, and Hurtigruten is a steward when it comes to ensuring it will stay this way for future generations. The company has the strictest eco-credentials at sea, from its ground-breaking ships to its passion for inspiring guests such as yourself to become environmental ambassadors.

Hurtigruten was one of the first major companies to ban single-use plastic throughout its fleet, in 2018. More recently, Hurtigruten initiated one of Europe’s largest environmental ship upgrades. With three of its seven coastal ships being converted to hybrid power (following suit of its sister brand Hurtigruten Expeditions introducing the world’s first hybrid in 2019), you can look forward to greener sailings and an environmentally conscious cruise choice, while experiencing one of the world’s most incredible destinations.

The post Where in the world: Bucket-list global adventures for 2022 appeared first on Australian Geographic.

This exciting project means Narooma’s current 30-plus kilometres of amazing MTB trails will be expanded over those two stages to offer more than 100km of world-class trails and infrastructure, in one of NSW’s most beautiful regions. The project has been funded by the Bushfire Local Economy Recovery Fund (BLERF; funded by the Commonwealth and NSW government under the Disaster Recovery Funding Arrangements, the project has received $3.9 million for the entire project). Narooma MTB Club President, Georgie Staley, says this project will be a huge boost to not only the riding experience, but also to tourism in the town and surrounding areas, and joins nearby Tathra and Bermagui (as well as Cooma, Jindabyne, Thredbo and Canberra inland) as another south-east NSW MTB riding destination. Add in the upcoming – and equally huge – trail network being developed in nearby Eden (due to open in June 2023) and the south coast of NSW is shaping up as another of Australia’s MTB meccas.

President of the Narooma District Chamber of Commerce & Tourism, Dr Jenny Munroe, welcomes the development of the Narooma Mountain Bike Hub and fully supports the initiative, noting how bike-based tourism can help boost tourism and the resultant investment on-flow into the community. 

“Mountain biking is one of the fastest growing recreational activities globally and Narooma has the environment and facilities to host bikers who will visit for the experience,” Munroe says. “This will provide opportunities for local hospitality businesses to have year-round custom rather than rely on seasonal trade. The Far South Coast will be the perfect mountain biking destination for enthusiasts and will provide facilities for families to foray into our beautiful bush with all the benefits of exercise, adventure, and the environment.”

Getting the experts on board

The Narooma Mountain Bike Club invested loads of time and energy into getting the project to this successful stage, and recognised the need to engage people with project management and trail construction experience, and are stoked to have a renowned company such as Dirt Art, on board for that purpose.

“We are over the moon with being able to have such an experienced and nationally recognised trail building company as Dirt Art to design and construct our trail network,” Georgie Staley says. “Having seen their preliminary ideas I know that the mountain bike community is going to be excited to come and ride here. Dirt Art brings the experience of constructing such projects as Maydena Bike Park [Tasmania], the Hero Trail at Bright, Victoria, and the Thredbo Valley Trail.”

Simon French, Managing Director of Dirt Art, is equally pumped about the project – and the location.
“Our enter team is extremely excited to partner with Narooma MTB Club to deliver the design and construction of Australia’s latest coastal riding destination,” he says. “Amazing terrain and perfect soils already have design and construction teams’ creativity flowing. We look forward to getting on the ground in the next couple of weeks as we begin the next design stages of the project.”

Both Munroe and Staley acknowledge this project – and indeed, the original trail network itself ­– would not have been possible if it wasn’t for the partnership with NSW Forestry Corporation and its continued belief and support.

A long held dream is now reality

The 30km of MTB trails that comprise Stage 1 are brilliant – something Aus Geo ADVENTURE can vouch for, having ridden the trails in early November this year. This first 30km of trail was the result of some serious hard work by Naroooma MTB Club itself, with members hand-building the trails over three years before officially opening to the public in 2019. The club’s dream is to grow MTB tourism in the area while also helping the larger community grow through the increased investment from visitors throughout the year. 

MTB tourism has proved wildly successful as a significant economic and social driver for communities wherever trail networks have been put in; the former tin-mining town of Derby, in Tasmania, is the best example, with its trail network now hosting rounds of the Enduro World Series, as well as thousands of bike-based tourists each year. As well, the NSW town of Dungog has seen an incredible increase in tourism spend as a result of its newly opened MTB trail network. And these are just two examples.

With Narooma already offering such brilliant riding with its Stage 1 trails, as well as beaches, beautiful national parks, excellent fishing (and seafood!) plus a rich indigenous culture, this new project leaves you with no excuse not to visit this magic part of the NSW South Coast. Narooma is only around 2.5 hours from Canberra and five hours from Sydney).

For info on the Narooma trails, see www.mountainbikenarooma.com.au

The post Happy trails: Narooma mountain bike trail network to grow to more than 100km appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Manitoba is situated bang-on the longitudinal centre of Canada and, in its 649,950 square-kilometres, hosts more than 100,000 lakes, rivers and streams, along with more than 90 parks (including two national parks). As well as a variety of landscapes (from vast prairies to subarctic coastline) and one of Canada’s most amazing capital cities – that’d be Winnipeg – the 1.2 million people in this province includes a vibrant Indigenous culture, and an equally vibrant (and unforgettable) wildlife population; polar bears, wolves, beluga whales, bison and loads more roam free here. In short, for those who are after an escape that combines all that the adventurous traveller loves – plenty of outdoor activities, culture, history (both ancient and more recent), wildlife and an incredible sense of wide open space – Manitoba is your answer. How much Manitoba offers you will depend on how long you have. A week or two will offer a nice taste (and a million reasons to return), while even a year may not be enough. Here’s why…

The only way to go

Sure, you can fly to Winnipeg from Vancouver (the entry point for Aussie travellers visiting Canada), but there is a far more enjoyable and enriching way to visit Manitoba, and it only takes a few days…
It is a journey like no other: the rugged ramparts of the Rocky Mountains passing by your window, the valleys and rivers of Canada’s interior rolling by as you continue into prairie country and reach Winnipeg, Manitoba’s vibrant capital, nestled at the junction of two mighty rivers. Then, you’re moving again – north, this time – and toward a spectacular landscape that offers everything from nature’s greatest lightshow to the chance to see some of Canada’s most iconic wildlife.
We’re talking about The Canadian, Canada’s famous two-night/three-day VIA Rail sleeper train journey from Vancouver, BC, on Canada’s west coast, to Manitoba’s capital of Winnipeg, and then another famous rail journey (on a different two day/two night service) to Churchill, and a rendezvous with polar bears, beluga whales and the magical Northern Lights (more on all this later) on the western shore of mighty Hudson Bay. Combining what is still regarded as one of the finest ways to travel (by rail), with the opportunity to understand, through the landscapes you roll past, how Manitoba ‘fits’ into Canada, and then travel north to the subarctic wilderness, this journey has no equal.

The Canadian is part of the country’s transcontinental service (it continues on to Toronto). Of course, it’s about the journey but the train itself is brilliant, too, with each car (except the dining and sleeping cars) featuring an expansive dome-glassed upper level viewing area that provides a 180-degree view of your surrounds. All cars also now have upgraded aircon filtration, too.
There are three ticket classes – Economy, Sleeper Plus and Prestige – with the Sleeper Plus class including a private cabin and all meals, while Prestige including a private cabin for two and your own concierge (plus meals and alcohol). If you opt for either of these two classes you also gain access to the Skyline Activity cars and the Prestige Park car’s bar and lounge, as well as the Dining car. Each car – regardless of class – offers great views; we can’t think of anything better than waking up to a snow-draped landscape rolling past your cabin window.

A capital idea

Spending more than a few days in Winnipeg is a no-brainer: the capital of Manitoba is a thriving, bustling centre of around 750,000 people and it is filled with a rich mix of cultural and adventurous activities, whether visiting the city’s famous museums and eateries, or exploring some of the surrounding parks. For those with an outdoor bent, we’d suggest The Forks. This appropriately named area of Winnipeg sits at the junction of the Assiniboine and Red rivers and includes murals (painted by Indigenous artists), awesome restaurants and you can even take to the river on a boat tour. Of course, if you’re in the city in winter, ice skating is a great family-based adventure in the city, with the Winnipeg Foundation Centennial Trail, the world’s longest naturally frozen skating trail.

For those looking for cultural enrichment, it’s hard to go past Qaumajuq, a centre that houses the world’s largest collection of contemporary Inuit art (it is found inside the magical Winnipeg Art Gallery). The term ‘Qaumajuq’ translates as “it is bright, it is lit” in Inuktitut. Two museums are must-visits as well, covering entirely different subjects, with the Canadian Museum for Human Rights housing ten interactive galleries, while the Manitoba Museum is jam-packed with displays and exhibits that cover the province’s cultural and natural history. There’s even a life-sized replica of a fur trade vessel here! And speaking of the fur trade, the Hudson’s Bay Company Gallery, inside the museum, is not to be missed, covering more than three centuries of what is claimed to be one of the world’s oldest commercial enterprises. After all that education, you’ll be hungry no doubt and Winnipeg has you covered with a variety of cafes, restaurants, bars offering immeasurable options, so be sure to check out districts such as The Forks, The Exchange (also the location of North America’s largest collection of heritage buildings) and Hargrave Street Market, among others.

Where life is wild

Think Manitoba and polar bears instantly spring to mind, with good reason; being able to see these mighty bruins up close at Churchill in the far north is a definite highlight for any visitor and most certainly one of the province’s biggest drawcards. However, these big boppers are not the only reason wildlife lovers should consider exploring Manitoba’s wilder side: the curious – okay, and cute – beluga whales are another, and then there’s bison, wolves, innumerable bird species (Manitoba is situated within three bird migration corridors), caribou, moose, black bears, seals and Arctic fox, to name just a few, that populate the provincial landscapes.

For birders, the 36-square-kilometre Oak Hammock Marsh Wildlife Management Area, around 20km north of Winnipeg, sees 300 bird species, with the number of waterfowl topping 100,00 per day during their migratory season. The Harry J. Enns Wetland Discovery Centre, located in the management area, offers a range of educational programs throughout the year. Visit Manitoba in the autumn and you’ll see tens of thousands of migrating Canadian geese, as well.
For those who can’t make it to Churchill, you can still tackle a polar bear experience at Winnipeg’s excellent Assiniboine Park Zoo, which contains a number of Arctic species, such as polar bears (of course – and in an expansive enclosure that accurately replicates their natural habitat), wolves, muskox and plenty with its various exhibits. This includes Journey to Churchill (with aforementioned polar bears), Gateway to the Arctic (complete with underwater viewing tunnels) and the Leatherdale International Polar Bear Conservation Centre (LIPBCC) where you will learn about the life – and climate-influenced challenges – of the polar bears (and other species) and the Arctic ecosystem in which they reside. Viewing the wildlife here at this excellent zoo is a highlight of a visit to Manitoba, and there’s an even more immersive experience a few days’ train travel north, too…

Northern exposure

Churchill, population around 900, is known as the ‘polar bear capital of the world’, due to its location on the shores of Hudson Bay, and the bears’ gathering there as they wait for the bay to freeze over so they can then hunt seals while living on the sea ice. For optimum viewing of these majestic animals, the middle of October until mid/late November is the best time to see some of the estimated 1000 bears that make up the area’s polar bear population.
There are a number of ways in which to view the bears, from one-day adventures in big tundra vehicles (Lazy Bear Expeditions, Frontiers North Adventures and Great White Bear Adventures all offer these), to multi-day stays at some amazing wilderness lodges.

For something truly unique, you can experience a few days aboard a tundra lodge stay, with operators such as Frontiers North Adventures and Great White Bear tours. This comprises huge tundra vehicles joined together, with separate cars for sleeping quarters and dining, along with the viewing. Fly-in wilderness lodges, such as Seal River Heritage Lodge, The Lazy Bear Lodge and Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge, are brilliant, too, and some allow you to join polar bear hikes, where you are down on the bear’s level, with guides (known as ‘bear whisperers’) who ensure you get close (but not too close) and you don’t impact the bears’ natural behaviour in any way. Add in the chance to see other wildlife, such as moose, black bears and wolves, and it’s easy to see why these wilderness lodges are so incredibly popular.

Summer allows some bear viewing (although they are rarer) and it also means you can paddle the now unfrozen waters of the Churchill River estuary to spot the super-cute beluga whales (known as the ‘canaries of the sea’ due to their calls), who spend time there feeding and breeding. There is an estimated 58,000 beluga that call Hudson Bay home each year, and around 4000 will spend time in the Churchill River estuary. You can kayak, sit aboard a boat or take a SUP out into the estuary to view the beluga (Lazy Bear Expeditions, Frontiers North Adventures and Sea North Tours offer beluga viewing trips). Besides their unique ‘song’ and curious personality, beluga differ from other whales by not having fused neck vertebrae, allowing the whale to tilt its head to the side, leading to some cheeky glances at you in your kayak or boat as they glide past.

There’s a third, close to equally famous, natural resident of Manitoba that is a must-see: the Northern Lights, aka Aurora Borealis. The northern icon of Churchill is, again, the place to be for optimum Northern Lights viewing, with the peak season of February and March. You can see the famous dancing lights throughout Manitoba during certain times of the year as well, but with its northerly location, Churchill provides close to 300 nights of Northern Lights viewing. Yep, that’s impressive.

Manitoba equals adventure, every day of the year

Hiking, canoeing, camping, snowshoeing, dogsledding, fishing, bike- and horse-riding – you name the outdoor adventure and Manitoba can provide the adrenalin- and nature-infused answer.
The 2729 square-kilometre Whiteshell Provincial Park, around 1.5 hours east of Winnipeg, contains numerous lakes and rivers as well as a huge network of hiking and biking trails that traverse ruggedly spectacular Canadian Shield country (this is a massive area of exposed rock that is part of the geologic core of the North American continent), with plenty of accommodation options for adventurous travellers, ranging from campgrounds through to resort-style. For hikers, the Hunt Lake Trail is challenging but with excellent lake views as the reward. Another absolute belter is the Assinboine Park Loop that not only gives your kids a chance to observe the zoo’s native wildlife at the animals inside but follows the river of the same name for a little while (oh, and there’s a playground along the way. Winning!).
One of Manitoba’s most popular outdoor playgrounds is Riding Mountain National Park, in what is known as ‘Clear Lake Country’ (after a lake in the national park) with some excellent biking trails (even in winter you can fat-bike here) and close to 370km of hiking trails. Hike options include the Gorge Creek Trail and an ascent of Bald Hill (the views from the top are brilliant), plus the Brule Trail, which is great for families at just on an hour walking through native forest. For wildlife spotters, the park is home to 40 plains bison.

With more than 100,000 lakes and waterways in Manitoba, those who love paddling a canoe are most certainly spoilt for choice, with myriad trips of varying lengths helping you connect with a watercraft that is synonymous with Canada. A few standout canoe journeys include five days or so along the Manigotagan River (roughly 150km northeast of Winnipeg) as it flows into pristine Lake Winnipeg, ideal for those who’ve paddled whitewater before (the river has a number of Grade I and II rapids, plus one Grade III) and with the chance to spot beaver, as well. For family paddlers, you can throw the kids in a canoe and explore the more benign (but just as beautiful) Seagrim Lake Chain, in Nopiming Provincial Park, over a weekend. For the true hardcore paddler, the Seal River beckons with its floatplane-only access to the start (and finish) and an estimated timeframe of three weeks journeying through a landscape interrupted by some small canyon sections, plus long lines of rapids, before you reach the flatter terrain as you get closer to the end-point of Hudson Bay (and 20km further along the bay, the polar bear town of Churchill itself).
Of course, don’t forget Winnipeg sits at the junction of two major rivers (and there are other rivers nearby), meaning there’s no excuse not to jump in a canoe or kayak and explore the city from the water!
All this Manitoba adventure doesn’t stop in winter, either, with dogsledding, fat biking, snowmobiling, ice fishing and snowshoeing just some examples of how you can tackle all types of active exploration and experiences in this fascinating province all year round.

All you need to know for the ultimate Manitoba adventure

For all things Manitoba, see www.travelmanitoba.com Insta: #exploremb
Winnipeg is excellent and well worth a few days’ stopover. See www.travelmanitoba.com/places/winnipeg for all info.
Churchill Is where it’s at for wildlife and the Northern Lights. See www.travelmanitoba.com/churchill/
For more info on VIA Rail’s awesome journeys, see www.viarail.ca or this cool video: https://youtu.be/Nc5nQAdVH78
Air Canada has direct flights from the eastern seaboard capitals of Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane to Vancouver, with connecting flights to Winnipeg. (We’d still recommend – if you have the time – to jump on board The Canadian rail trip for that connection.)

The post Manitoba: Where the wild things are appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Why The Canadian is an icon

On this trans-wonderland journey, you will see the rugged ramparts of the Rocky Mountains out of your window, the valleys and rivers of Canada’s interior rolling by, and then the vastness of Canada’s big-sky prairie country before you reach Winnipeg, Manitoba’s vibrant and dynamic capital, nestled at the junction of two mighty rivers. Then, if you wish, you can jump on the Manitoba-Churchill train, to rendezvous with polar bears, beluga whales and the magical Northern Lights. Combining what is still regarded as one of the finest ways to travel – by rail – with the opportunity to explore beautiful Winnipeg, and then travel north to the Arctic wilderness and its wonders, has no equal. This is how you do it…

A class act

Of course, it’s about the journey, but the train itself is brilliant, too. Each car (except the dining and sleeping cars) features an expansive dome-glassed upper level viewing area that provides an expansive view of your surrounds. (All cars now have upgraded aircon filtration, too.)

There are three ticket classes – Economy, Sleeper Plus and Prestige (these last two very popular with Aussie travellers; read on to see why) – with the Sleeper Plus class including a private cabin (for one or two; this class also has the ability to join two cabins together to form a four-person/family cabin with two washrooms) and all meals, while Prestige includes a private cabin for two and your own concierge (plus meals and alcohol). Both of these classes allow you access to the Skyline Activity car (with its upper dome or lower activity area) and the Prestige Park Car’s bar and lounge (plus beautiful upper dome seating area), as well as the Dining car, where you will go for your meals. Each car – regardless of class – offers great views; we can’t think of much better than waking up to a snow-draped landscape rolling past your cabin window, which makes the autumn/winter season a definite favourite with travellers. The benefit of being free to either relax in your own cabin, or explore the train, on top of all these aforementioned highlights, make these two classes an absolute must.

For those who opt for the top-tier Prestige class, you will be seriously indulged. From the spacious and luxurious cabin (it is 50 per cent larger than Sleeper Plus and caters for two passengers, with an amazing full bathroom), access to the business lounge pre-boarding and aforementioned personal concierge, to priority boarding, Skyline, Park (with reserved seats in the upper dome of this car), and Dining cars access (with an option for reserved seats in the Dining, plus five-course gourmet meals, with all alcohol included), and even a flatscreen TV in your cabin (although we challenge you to watch that too much when there’s that natural spectacle outside your window), it’s a brilliant interpretation of ‘luxury with adventure’. Both Prestige and Sleeper Plus have unlimited tea/coffee/juice/snacks available in the Skyline and Prestige Park lounge.

Sleeper Plus (with business lounge access, priority boarding and access to Skyline, Park and Dining cars) means you only miss out on the in-cabin shower (Sleeper Plus passengers have exclusive access to the showers in their car, however), and Prestige’s five-course meal option (Sleeper Plus get a three-course option, with identical entrée, mains and dessert as Prestige), plus you have to pay for on-board alcohol. And, unlike Prestige, you don’t have access to reserved seating in other cars. 

The usual mental picture of ‘Economy’ for travellers is turned on its head for those aboard The Canadian, thanks to comfortable seats that offer plenty of recline and – yes! – loads of leg room. It is, of course the most cost-effective way to travel as well, and you still get those cracking views out the window (and there is an upper seating area with dome windows), plus access to meals and drinks (at your own cost) in the café service car. Economy passengers don’t miss out on even more expansive views, either; there is a separate Skyline car for economy passengers as well. 

Enrichment in motion

There’s plenty of time on The Canadian’s route from Vancouver to Winnipeg to not only be captivated by the spectacle of the ever-changing landscape the train rolls through, but also to enjoy good company, or simply chill out and relax by reading, meeting your fellow travel mates, making sure you get off at each stop and check out the local highlight where possible, or even keep a journal of the trip highlights. This is the beauty of train travel – and something so well encapsulated by The Canadian. The train’s excellent Park and Skyline cars, with their upper-level glass dome windows/roof, are a brilliant option for photo- and videographers who wish to document their trip through the various landscapes, and that immense glass roof provides a near open-air experience, with plenty of natural light that makes you feel like you really are a part of the country you’re travelling through.  

The different stops along The Canadian’s route also allow for some leg-stretching/viewing time, and with iconic highlights, such as the towering mountains surrounding Jasper, in Alberta (make the most of the one-hour stop here to explore this famous and welcoming town), not to mention the end-point of Winnipeg, in the middle of a prairie sea, to view along the way, it’s a no-brainer to make the most of your out-of-train time at these stops. 

If you’re travelling as a family, with young kids, you’ll be surprised just how easily said young folk are kept occupied, exploring the different cars, checking out the gobsmacking scenery rolling by, enjoying boardgames or even keeping their own diaries. If there’s one thing this train journey does, it is that it makes you revert back to the ‘simpler’ more engaging things in life, where people, places and high levels of fun are the priority. This doesn’t mean there’s no ‘connection’ to modern life; Wi-Fi is available at the stations along this route, and if you really need to check emails, etc., you can do so when time permits at these stops. And, if your little’uns need a bit of downtime from all that, they can watch a pre-trip downloaded film or TV show on a tablet (or in their cabin on the TV), before getting them to bed with the promise of another morning looking out their cabin window at even more new and beautiful scenery. 

There’s no such thing as the last station

At the end of three days – at journey’s end – The Canadian has taken you through a microcosm of some of Canada’s most spectacular regions. From leaving the west coast hub of Vancouver, through the rainforests of British Columbia, between the iconic spires of Alberta’s wild Rocky Mountains, and past numerous lakes rivers on your way to the vastness of prairie country and then the culturally rich city that is Winnipeg, Manitoba’s capital, you’ve seen some of the best this spectacle-filled country has to offer – and in a relaxing, comfortable, well-fed and unique way, aboard this famous train.

You’ll leave The Canadian well relaxed, and most memorably, you’ll leave with far more knowledge of the regions you’ve just traversed than if you flew or drove, thanks to that often hard to describe feeling of immersion that rail travel provides. Your own thoughts, your photos, your words written in your journal, and the extra knowledge provided by the VIA Rail staff, all combine to ensure that The Canadian is far, far more than ‘just a train trip’.

Once more, with feeling!

There’s no doubt Winnipeg is a fitting end-point for our The Canadian journey. But this does not mean the adventure has finished; a few days of exploring Winnipeg’s many highlights is an absolute must, but then, for those keen for more, you can add on another unique VIA Rail experience: the rail journey to northern Manitoba’s wild heart of Churchill. 

Churchill is the ‘Polar Bear Capital of the World’ and provides a unique chance to see them up close, in a tundra vehicle or when staying in a wilderness lodge. The Canadian autumn and summer are popular times to tackle this adventure. The beautiful northern summer also means that not only are polar bears still active, but the character-filled beluga whales (affectionately known as the canaries of the sea) are around. Paddling a kayak or SUP on the Churchill River Estuary provides the opportunity to view these majestic marine mammals. Winter offers the chance to view the amazing Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis), as well.

All you need to know for The Canadian escape

For more info, and to be inspired by this brilliant VIA Rail journey, see www.viarail.ca or this cool video: https://youtu.be/Nc5nQAdVH78

Winnipeg is excellent and definitely worth a few days’ stopover. See www.travelmanitoba.com/places/winnipeg for all info.

Churchill Is where it’s at for wildlife and the northern lights. See www.travelmanitoba.com/places/churchill  

The post The Canadian: One of the world’s great rail journeys appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Joe Bailey, a Dene man of Canada’s Northwest Territories (known as ‘Denendeh’ to the Dene people), and owner/operator of North Star Adventures in Yellowknife (the NWT capital), pauses, taking a moment to gather his thoughts before continuing to explain how the amazing natural phenomenon that is the Aurora Borealis, has shaped his life.

“Me and my brother, we were raised by our grandparents… in the traditional Dene lifestyle,” he continues. “I can remember being out at the Little Buffalo River in the middle of nowhere and living in a tent – it would sometimes be -40 degrees Celsius – and we were in just a canvas tent. 

“After we’d done all our work of cutting the wood and keeping the camp clean, then we’d go play outside. And sometimes me and my brother would just lay in the snow and we’d just watch the Aurora Borealis. We were five and six years old, watching all the stars and just watching the Aurora go like crazy.”

A true natural wonder

Joe, along with all the other people fortunate enough to call the Northwest Territories home, lives in the literal shadow of one of the world’s most unique and colourful natural occurrences. Thankfully, for anyone looking to view the ‘dancing lights’ of the Aurora, you can. All you need to do is head to this ruggedly beautiful Canadian province that is the world’s best Aurora-viewing region. Here, you’ll not only find those magical lights putting on a show for roughly 200 days of each year, but a hell of a lot more. From a rich, thriving Indigenous culture and incredible outdoor activities, to the thriving capital city of Yellowknife, nestled on the northern shore of Great Slave Lake, to pristine lodges perched on the edge of one of the world’s largest bodies of water in part of Canada’s newest national park, these all combine with the NWT’s famous natural light show to provide more than enough reasons to spend plenty of time in one of the world’s still-wild places.

The secret behind the magic

The Aurora Borealis is something to behold, with its mix of emerald-green and rich red sprawling across the NWT night skies. Even though photographs and video footage capture its rich shimmering hues very well, being there physically and watching this performance of nature as it moves about the sky is that final element to the experience that can’t be replicated any other way. Standing there as the Aurora struts its stuff also offers up the question of just how this night-sky magic occurs.

The NWT is located in what is known as an “Auroral oval” (where the Aurora will display most strongly). This, to simplify, is a band around the earth that has been ‘pushed’ or moved by strong solar winds toward the dark (night) side of our planet. That solar wind disrupts the earth’s magnetosphere enough that particles from both the wind and the plasma of the magnetosphere ionise after precipitating in the upper atmosphere. The result is that brilliant and always varying emission of different light in the night sky, depending on how much oxygen and/or nitrogen is in the atmosphere (cool fact: the Aurora’s striking greens are courtesy of oxygen; those vibrant pinks are due to a large amount of nitrogen). Add in the fact the NWT has a very dry climate (and thus, few clouds) and you are, literally, only minutes away from clear skies once you leave the Yellowknife city limits, and it’s the ‘perfect storm’ for the Aurora. So, yeah, it’s definitely a complicated process, but as we all know; perfection never comes easy… As this video above shows, it’s always worth waiting for.

A tale of two seasons

The Northwest Territories’ northerly location means visitors can view the Aurora in both autumn and winter. After the province’s lengthy days of close to full sunlight during summer, the return of ‘night’ in August means nature’s famous light-show is ready to perform, with the southern parts of NWT copping three to five hours of night skies. It’s dark enough in the wee hours of the night to see the Aurora around Yellowknife by the first week of August..

For visitors keen to undertake other activity options while they’re in the NWT for the Aurora, the autumn season (around mid-August until the start of October) is great. Depending on where you are staying, daylight hours can be spent exploring Yellowknife itself, if you’re based in the city and doing day-trips out of it (this writer can vouch for the awesome pubs and dining in the city, plus a visit to Old Town is a must-do), or if you are based out at a remote lodge, you can tackle some of their many day-based experiences (more on this later) that can include hiking, wildlife-viewing, paddling (canoe or kayak), cultural tours (close to 50 per cent of the NWT population is indigenous), camping, boat tours on the water (with the Aurora’s lights often reflected on the surface), and fishing (think: huge trout and pike, plus other species). Often, during the evening if you’re out tackling some of the activities, the Aurora will be an accompaniment.

Winter brings with it snow, ice, and frozen lakes, providing a totally different ‘feel’ to the Aurora viewing experience. Usually running from November until late March, the contrast of the snow-clad landscape, the NWT’s immense now-frozen lakes and the vivid light-show in the night sky, ensures a breathtaking night-sky on most nights. Again, as well as the Aurora itself, there are some awesome other adventures you can partake in during winter. These include the ubiquitous dogsledding, ice-fishing, driving on ice roads (including the popular 6km Yellowknife-Dettah Ice Road, that links the city to the First Nation community of Dettah), and exploring the frozen lakes and waterways using skis, snowmobiles or on fat-bikes, with local guides. This frozen-world experience is a key factor in the NWT winter Aurora experience. And yeah, we agree; it’s tough to figure out which of the two seasons would be ‘best’ but, really, that’s a decision that doesn’t matter. They are both so unique in terms of the overall experience (not only the Aurora, but the plethora of other activities you can check out as well), that either one will make a life memory. 

The views from the edge of the earth

Thaidene Nëné (“Land of the ancestors”) National Park Reserve is Canada’s newest national park and covers an amazing 27,000 square-kilometres of the East Arm of Great Slave Lake. Ratified in 2019, the park is remote and rugged, with its combination of huge lakeside cliffs (up to 100m high), the dramatic Douglas, Pethei and Kahocella peninsulas (ideal for hiking and camping), the numerous waterways that feed it, and a mix of forest and the vast arctic plains of the Barrenlands, home to muskox, caribou, bears, wolves and the joining point for a number of famous northern rivers. It is also culturally significant to the Dënesųłiné of the Dene people. 

The national park is, today, also home to some brilliant lodges that are ideal destinations for those looking for a truly ‘remote’ Aurora viewing experience. Frontier Lodge was built originally as a lodge for the trophy fishing visitor (huge lake trout and Arctic grayling abound here), but now offers an awesome range of Aurora viewing-based stays of three, four or seven nights that incorporate other day-based activities, such as hiking (including on some of Great Slave Lake’s many small islands), wildlife viewing (there are plenty of muskox in this area, plus the potential to see wolves, bears and moose), sightseeing tours and with the potential to add on cultural activities. 

It was the potential that the national park offered for this variety of activities that, according to Frontier Lodge Manager Corey Myers, led the lodge to expand their visitor offerings to not only Aurora focused experiences, but also Thaidene Nëné and cultural experiences (the lodge is 100 per cent Indigenous owned) as well.

“You always hear from clients; ‘I came for the fishing because I heard about it, but I want to come back for everything else’,” he says. “Or ‘I stuck to fishing and then realised on the last day there’s muskox, there’s hills to climb, there’s a whole community that I’ve never gotten to experience’. So now it’s cool to be able to offer that.”

And by cool, he means it: The Thaidene Nëné Experience includes – of course – Aurora viewing, plus the hiking, wildlife viewing and other activities from the lodge’s aurora-based experience. Impressively, it then adds a full cultural experience day, incorporating Dënesųłiné cultural programming that covers a tour through the Lutsel K’e community, storytelling and skills workshops, among other things. It’s not hard to see why fishing-only visitors soon realised the lodge and the national park itself, offer a far richer experience than first thought.

Katherine Johnson, Director of Sales and Marketing at Blachford Lake Lodge & Wilderness Resort offers similar comments regarding initial visitors to this pristine lodge, 100km east of Yellowknife, situated on the edge of pretty Blachford Lake, and how they, then the lodge owners, realised that, even though the fishing is top-level, above even that are the Aurora viewing opportunities. This lodge, built in the early 1980s, started off as a part-time (and popular) fishing lodge but soon expanded to take advantage of its brilliant location for viewing the NWT’s famous natural light show. As with Corey, for Katherine, the appeal of a remote lodge-stay for Aurora viewing is obvious, in many splendid ways, starting with the journey to the lodge, in a small float plane (or ski-plane in winter).

“The adventure does start when you hop on a bush plane in Yellowknife,” she says. “It’s about a 30-minute flight out to the lodge, and it’s a really scenic, beautiful flight. In the winter, you have the opportunity from the plane to see moose, lynx, wolves – all of the caribou sometimes if you’re lucky. It’s a beautiful flight… You don’t fly very high, so you can see everything below you.”

Katherine also offers a tip on the length of your stay in the NWT to maximise your chances of seeing the Aurora, saying a minimum of three nights is the recommendation she provides visitors. And it must work – Blachford Lodge has a high number of repeat visitors. And, as per other lodges, Blachford offers plenty to keep Aurora-chasing visitors busy during the day, too, with winter activities including snowshoeing, ice skating on the lake, hiking, ice-fishing and fat-bikes, as well as snowmobile tours. 

There’s no doubt remote lodges offer a brilliant Aurora experience – and each one has its own unique flavour, whether that’s Frontier’s location in the amazing Thaidene Nëné, Blachford’s dreamy lakeside locale, or the equally remote Lac La Martre Lodge, located on its own small island in the middle of 2590 square-kilometre Lac La Martre itself (the only lodge there – yep, it does sound awesome). However, even more impressively for those planning their NWT journey, a lodge stay is just one of many options for Aurora experiences… 

Many ways to join the dance

“Way back in 2007 I said, ‘I’m not going to call it Aurora Chasing or Aurora Viewing, I’m going to call it Aurora Hunting because I grew up hunting caribou, moose, and buffalo and so I wanted to use that concept,” Joe Bailey says, explaining how North Star Adventures’ ‘mobile’ Aurora viewing experience started. “Then all the customers in that first year, they said, ‘We’ve never seen this kind of tour before; This is more fun, this is more personal. This is more exciting. We suggest you continue to stay as Aurora Hunting’. 

“So, we just focused on the analysing weather patterns, becoming experts in meteorology, the technical aspects of Aurora, and the solar sunspots, the behaviour of Aurora over the years…”

Joe and his team draw on not only the scientific information above, but their cultural knowledge (drawn from accumulated stories from Dene Elders over the generations) when hosting their unique ‘hunting’ trips that run in late summer and autumn. The key difference here is that Joe and his team are mobile, so they can drive to a number of different locations out from Yellowknife where they are based. This ability to not be bound to one location significantly ups the chances of a memorable Aurora viewing. For the more adventurous visitors, there’s also a snowmobile-based Aurora experience, plus a small-group, personal Aurora Teepee Tour, with more cultural enrichment as part of that.

Yellowknife is one of the world’s most perfectly located capital cities. Abutting North America’s deepest lake – Great Slave – and situated under Aurora-rich skies, this bustling small city offers aurora experiences nearly right outside the front door of your accommodation. This is ideal for those with less time (or money) but who want to tick off what is synonymous with this wild and wonderful province. Some highlights include Aurora Village, an Indigenous run/owned operation 30 minutes from the centre of Yellowknife beside the Ingraham Trail (Highway 4; this 70km route leads to pristine Tibbit Lake, via a number of other lakes, with campsites and boat launch sites at many of these). With its mix of autumn and winter Aurora experiences (or a package with a hotel in town) ranging from a day to longer, it is great for those with less time but who want a full Aurora viewing (and cultural) experience. 

In town itself, one of the prettiest viewpoints would have to be the Bush Pilots Monument, located in the middle of Old Town (a must-visit on its own). At the top of the monument, you have 360-degree views around town and the lake. Even better, you can watch the Aurora and then head to one of Old Town’s great eateries. Win, win? Yep, we reckon so. Another top spot is Back Bay.

Everyone can see the light

It sounds like a cliché but there are no downsides to visiting the Northwest Territories for that lifetime Northern Lights experience. The location is, as mentioned earlier, perfect, and obviously is key to the success of those who seek the lights. But the NWT is so much more than that. Its unique landscape, encompassing mountains, forests, mighty rivers and lakes, the prolific wildlife, friendly locals, and a rich (and proud) Indigenous culture, mean NWT jams in all the ‘awesome’ that you can dream of in terms of adventurous travel inside its borders. And, finally and perhaps surprising for some of us Aussies, this Land Under Lights is not that far away; a flight to Vancouver, then a direct flight from Vancouver (or Calgary or Edmonton) to Yellowknife and you’ll be within near-touching distance of one of nature’s true wonders, with myriad other activities there on offer as well. We have a little more time before we can fly internationally again, so start planning that NWT aurora adventure with an Australian-based operator, such as Great Canadian Trails! Speaking of which…

Great Canadian Trails presents: Canada’s Subarctic Aurora Borealis and National Parks

Guided walking, off-the grid cultural experiences and sightseeing out of the Northwest Territories’ world-renowned aurora-viewing capital.
Experience the spectacular sights of one of Canada’s most pristine and wild provinces. Amidst the mesmerising colours of the Northern Lights and the untamed wilds, this journey will take you through spectacular Thaidene Nëné, Wood Buffalo and Nahanni national parks. An impressive array of flora and fauna exists throughout this province, known for its nature photography and wildlife viewing. Bald eagle and bison, loon and muskox, bear, moose and wolf all make the province’s remote northern tundra regions their homes. Its location directly beneath the Earth’s “Auroral oval,” ensures many successive nights throughout the autumn and winter to marvel at the aurora’s intense and flickering dance. Your tour is timed to provide ample viewing opportunities of this natural wonder. A thrilling bush plane flight amidst breathtaking canyons will lead you to Nahanni NP’s awe-inspiring Virginia Falls.
Date: September 2022
Length: 17 days / 16 nights (hotels, B&Bs and private cabins), September 2022.
More info and bookings: www.greatcanadiantrails.com/private/KUVGKV

Get to it!

FACT FILE

Getting there: The NWT is reached via daily direct flights from Vancouver, Calgary and Edmonton. There are direct flights from Australia’s eastern seaboard to Vancouver.

Best time to go: For the Northern Lights, the best time to go is mid- to late-August to early October, then December to March.

Accommodation: Yellowknife has a range of quality hotels and other accommodation types. For those looking for hotel accommodation, both The Explorer Hotel and Chateau Nova Yellowknife are excellent.
To book any of the remote lodges mentioned or a Yellowknife hotel and aurora experience, contact your preferred Australian tour operator or travel agent specialising in Canada.

Aurora viewing experiences: Besides those mentioned in this feature story, there are many other Northern Lights viewing operators. For info on all of these, see the Aurora section of the Northwest Territories Tourism website – www.spectacularnwt.com/what-to-do/aurora – where you will find links to information on day trips, longer stays, lodges and information on both the autumn and winter seasons. It’s worth noting that some lodges only open in autumn for Aurora viewing, while others offer it in both autumn and winter.

More info: NWT Tourism has an excellent website that is packed with info on traveling in the province. See www.spectacularnwt.com

The post The Northwest Territories: Dancers of the northern night appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The Yukon is 80 per cent wilderness, which means an abundance of wildlife, including iconic North American species such as grizzly bears, wolves, moose, caribou (the Yukon’s 200,000 Porcupine caribou herd tackles the longest mammal land migration in the world each year), bald eagles and more. 

The Yukon’s vast size doesn’t mean it is crowded, either. The sparse population of around 41,800 residents includes 14 First Nations (accounting for 20 per cent of the territory’s population) resulting in a rich and thriving indigenous culture. And, on account of this wilderness to people ratio (the population density is around 0.1 person per square kilometre), there’s a huge amount of space for epic adventures!

Where the wild things are

The Yukon contains some incredible protected areas, including three national parks and eight territorial parks. Among these are some true adventure icons, such as Tombstone Territorial Park in the north-west, Kluane National Park and Reserve in the south-west, and the remote arctic national park in the far north: Ivvavik, nestled alongside the border with Alaska.  

Tombstone Territorial Park, north of Dawson City (and reached via, firstly, the Klondike, then the Dempster Highway, the only public road to cross the Arctic circle) covers more than 2200 square-kilometres. The park’s landscape ranges from boreal forest and high, dramatic mountain peaks in the south (including Tombstone Mountain), through to the contrast of rolling subarctic tundra in the Blackstone Uplands of the north. The altitude here ranges from around 550m in the Chandindu River valley up to the 2350m summit of Mt Frank Rae. The park is crisscrossed by numerous waterways, including the Tombstone, North Klondike, Chandindu, Blackstone and East Blackstone rivers. It is also host to the annual migration of the 120,000-strong Porcupine caribou herd, claimed to be the longest migration of any land animal on Earth. You will find plenty of hiking trails, campsites, rivers to paddle, and wildlife, plus the excellent – and must-visit – Tombstone Interpretive Centre, which showcases the park’s geology and First Nations history.

Only two hours west of Whitehorse, Kluane National Park offers a huge contrast to Tombstone Territorial Park. At Kluane NP you will find Mount Logan (Canada’s highest mountain) and the earth’s largest non-polar ice fields (half of the park’s total landmass is covered in snow and ice). Besides Mount Logan, the park contains 17 of Canada’s 20 tallest peaks. It is also home to the Alsek River (one of the world’s famous rafting waterways) and contains plenty of iconic Yukon wildlife – grizzly and black bears, Dall sheep and bald eagles. On top of this, the park is chock-full of outdoor activities: hiking (day, overnight or multi-day), rafting, mountain biking, fishing, camping and canoeing are all possible here.

Far more remote (but worth the effort to visit), Ivvavik National Park provides yet another different experience of the Yukon. Ivvavik (the name means ‘nursery’ in Inuvialuit, and refers to the porcupine caribou’s migration from here to their calving grounds further south) is extremely remote – according to Parks Canada, only 100 visitors per year visit the park – and access is via plane to Inuvik. The rewards, however, are worth the small extra effort: the park, a mix of unglaciated arctic tundra and the rugged British Mountains, contains Canada’s oldest river (the 130km-long Firth) that is a cracking rafting location (for the super-keen you can raft all the way from Margaret Lake to the Arctic Ocean, or tackle shorter journeys). The park is – you guessed it – also packed full of wildlife, with grizzly bears in abundance as well as beautiful king eider ducks for birdwatchers to marvel over. It is perfect for both day trips or longer stays – there’s even a unique Arctic base camp at Sheep Creek where you stay in cabins and enjoy day hikes, fishing and plenty more.

Of course, along with the three ‘big’ parks of Tombstone, Kluane and Ivvavik, the Yukon is home to numerous other reserves and protected areas, from historical to cultural to those dedicated to the preservation of unique ecosystems. For visitors looking to learn more and experience the territory’s natural assets, the Yukon has all of that and more, in abundance. 

Walk this way

The Yukon is a hiker’s paradise. Whether you’re keen on day hikes with your family alongside the iconic Yukon River, or you wish to tackle the famous multi-day Chilkoot Trail (either with a Whitehorse-based guiding company, or independently), you will never want for walking. 

The Chilkoot Trail retraces the route used by, firstly, the Tinglit indigenous people, then by desperate gold-hunters (known as ‘stampeders’) in the late 1800s, lured by the shiny siren call of the Yukon’s Klondike Gold Rush further north. The Chilkoot actually starts across the USA border at Dyea, Alaska (not far from the gold-rush town of Skagway), travelling through coastal forest, before taking you back into Canada, where you then start climbing high above the tree line into starkly beautiful alpine tundra through the Coast Mountains, before crossing the (often snow-covered) Chilkoot Pass (1074m) is a highlight; the crossing entails rock-hopping up its near-vertical pile of massive boulders to the top where, if you are not blown off by the howling winds that can funnel through the pass, you can look back down what you’ve just ascended and wonder how the early prospectors made it – and appreciate their determination. Why so? The prospectors were required by Canadian law to carry with them an Imperial ton of supplies. The reasoning behind this seemingly torturous edict was it lessened the chance of prospectors’ deaths during the harsh long winters. The landscape is sublime, as are the campsites along the trail; most are situated beside a lake (this writer woke up at Lake Lindeman camp to see a moose grazing in the shallow waters), with the finish beside beautiful Lake Bennett, at the end of an unforgettable four days in the wild. Here you can either jump onboard a floatplane back to Whitehorse (guided treks often offer this as part of the trip), or catch the Bennett to Skagway Chilkoot Hiker Service train, on the White Pass and Yukon Route. It’s a great way to see a different part of this beautiful part of the territory.

Two other brilliant multi-day hikes in the Yukon are found in Kluane National Park. The three-day Slim’s River West Trail, a 64km up-and-back journey through the Slim’s River Valley, that includes a climb up to the top of Observation Mountain for amazing views over the Kaskawulsh Glacier, and its frozen river. The seven-day Cottonwood Trail (available as guided or independent) fully immerses you in the park, with creeks to cross, mountains to trek up and down, and the chance to spot plenty of wildlife (the park has a heavy concentration of grizzly bears, as one example). 

As well as these big treks, there are innumerable day hikes throughout the Yukon, suited to all age groups. Some must-dos include the 5km-return Grey Mountain hike, just out of Whitehorse, that offers great lake views, and the 4km Spirit Canyon hike, with canyon views, the Takhini River Valley (more on this river, later) and Ibex Valley. This canyon also offers excellent rock climbing. A final couple of day hike options – this time, in Tombstone Territorial Park – include the Golden Sides Mountain hike, which is a roughly 4km-return amble up a small mountain north of the park’s campground, that offers majestic views back across the valley to 2319-metre Tombstone Mountain itself, looming over the headwaters of the North Klondike River. The other is the equally spectacular Grizzly Valley hike to Ridge Viewpoint. At 8km return, this is a fun day-hike for the family with plenty of ‘up’ being rewarded with an eagle’s view of Grizzly Lake and Mount Monolith in the distance, deeper inside the park. 

The truth is, if we had 10,000 words to write about all the hiking options in the Yukon, it wouldn’t be nearly enough, however, the above options certainly qualify as a few highlights among many.

Have paddle, will explore

If there’s an outdoor activity that could be classified as synonymous with the Yukon, it would have to be paddling. The canoe is, of course, a Canadian icon – and the Yukon has myriad rivers and lakes suited to this craft – but there is also plenty of kayaking (both flat and whitewater) and rafting available on a number of rivers, too. It really is a matter of “picking your poison” in terms of finding a waterway (or 10!) that you can paddle your favourite watercraft in. And it all starts with the territory’s namesake river…

The Yukon River is one of the canoeing world’s most famous bucket-list journeys and, if you have the time, the journey from Whitehorse north to Dawson City, replicating the route taken by the ‘stampeders’ in the Gold Rush era as they rushed to the Klondike goldfields, is simply brilliant. The ‘full monty’ version of this journey takes between 14 and 20 days – and we’d highly recommend going with an experienced guiding company, such as Canadian River Expeditions or Up North Adventures, simply to ensure all the logistics are taken care of and you can just enjoy the paddling on this famous waterway. For those with less time, you can opt to paddle either the Whitehorse to Carcross leg, or the Carcross to Dawson City one. Of course, even a day paddling this famous river is great fun and there are plenty of operators, such as Kanoe People, who provide guided day paddles, or canoe hire for those wishing to tackle the big river independently (with a pick-up and return to Whitehorse at the end of the day). Other longer canoe adventures include the Snake, Wind, Big Salmon, Bonnet Plume and Nisutlin rivers (this last one is popular with families), with journey times ranging from a week to more than 20 days on the water

In terms of day trips, along with the Yukon there are a number of other fantastic canoe rivers, such as the Takhini and the Wheaton – both close enough to Whitehorse to enable them being tackled as guided day paddles (Ruby Range Adventures offers this), or independent (Up North Adventures provides the essential gear for more experienced paddlers). Their relative proximity to Whitehorse means you can be back, regaling fellow travellers with your canoe adventure anecdotes that evening, while enjoying a local craft beer and excellent meal. 

Whitewater rafting is very popular in the Yukon, with experienced guiding companies offering mix of day and longer trips for visitors, taking paddlers through a wide range of landscapes, from dense forest to arctic tundra. As Travel Yukon itself says, “rafting here is like a waterpark without the lineups”, and that is very true; the number of raft-able rivers, and the vast landscape give you that perfect mix of thrills and the chance to savour the country you are floating through with minimal ‘noise pollution’, equals a win-win for keen paddlers. 

The multi-day, guided whitewater adventure on the Tatshenshini River is probably the Yukon’s most famous rafting experience. The Tatshenshini is a Canadian Heritage River (due to its recreational and cultural significance) that flows through the world’s largest bio-reserve as it travels from the Yukon, to British Columbia, before finishing at Alaska and the Pacific Ocean. Yes, it is massive, both in size, the gobsmacking land you float past (think: glaciers, icebergs and wild forest), and the experience itself, with wildlife in abundance and pristine river-side campsites each night. A close second is the Alsek River, which actually joins the Tatshenshini closer to Alaska (Canadian River Expeditions offers a guided rafting adventure that combines both waterways), followed by the contrasting journey to the Arctic Ocean along the beautiful Firth River, passing through arctic tundra on the way to the northern sea. 

Joel Hibbard, of Canadian River Expeditions, explains the differences – and appeal to visiting paddlers – of the most popular rafting rivers: the Tatshenshini and the Alsek.
“The Tatshenshini and the Alsek, while only a valley apart, are completely different,” Joel says. “The Tatshenshini Valley is filled with lush forest surrounded by towering mountains where the Upper Alsek is still melting out of the last ice age. The Alsek’s powerful rapids mean very few people brave the waters, usually with the company of a team of guides, but it ensures travellers can experience some of the most remote landscapes in North America with only their group. 
“To journey from the interior of the Yukon to the coast of Alaska by river also opens travellers eyes to traditional indigenous trade routes and the bold journeys that First Nations made to trade goods.” 

You don’t have to spend multiple days on the water to enjoy the iconic Yukon rafting experience, however. A number of guiding outfits offer day-trips along parts of the Tatshenshini, as well as the Liard and, close to Whitehorse (on Skagway Road), the thrill-packed Tutshi, with its journey from tranquil lakes to faster water and then adrenalin-filled runs through rapids inside a river canyon. Rafting company, Tatshenshini Expediting rates it as one of the best whitewater day trips in the world. Yep, we agree; it sounds amazing.  

An ageless connection

With 14 First Nations residing in the Yukon – and accounting for 20 per cent of the population – visitors wishing to gain knowledge of the first inhabitants of this territory are spoilt with options, whether that is through immersion in local communities, indigenous artworks, festivals and cultural centres. It is this last – culture – that the Yukon is notably rich and vibrant with, thanks to the First Nations of Yukon’s commitment to showcasing their culture and history and educating visitors through the many cultural centres (see Yukon First Nations Culture & Tourism for extensive info on all things Yukon First Nations). 

The cultural centres you will visit in the Yukon are as varied and unique as the 14 First Nations who reside here. From being welcomed by five hand-carved traditional clan poles at the Teslin Tlingit Heritage Centre (right beside Teslin Lake) and then investigating its canoe shed and traditional fish camp before checking out some artwork, through to strolling from your downtown accommodation in Whitehorse to the city’s Kwanlin Dün Cultural Centre overlooking the Yukon River, there are a number of cultural centres to visit. 

As well as the cultural centres, there are a number of First Nations festivals and events that, if you’re in the Yukon at the right time, are a must see. The annual Adaka Festival, along with the bi-annual Moosehide Gathering and Ha Kusteya gathering.

In terms of First Nations art, you will find an abundance of it on display and/or for sale in most of the major towns in the territory. Whether it is clothing, woven material, jewellery, paintings or – our favourite – carvings (if you get the chance to, check out the excellent Carcross/Tagish First Nation Carving Centre to see some beautiful works by master sculptor Keith Wolfe Smarch), the First Nations art is a brilliant memento of what is a strong, thriving part of the Yukon to return home with. 

A golden history and kissing a toe

Dubbed the “Paris of the North” during the halcyon three years of the Klondike gold rush (1896-99), the town of Dawson City is located at the confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers. Originally a First Nations fishing and harvesting camp, the settlement soon grew to a population of 40,000 during the rush as desperate young prospectors (including a certain future author by the name of Jack London) flooded the region in search of instant riches. 

Once the gold disappeared, so did the population. Today, Dawson City counts around 1200 permanent residents, but it still thrives as a busy tourist town. The Dawson City Museum is a highlight and there are many famous hotels and buildings that have been fantastically restored, giving give the town a rich ambience of past glories, matched by the Klondike Spirit steamboat that regularly chugs by on the river. And speaking of hotels, for those after a memorable – and quirky – memory of a visit to Dawson City, you must head to the Sourdough Saloon and sample the famous Sourtoe Cocktail. Yes, it’s a preserved human toe, sitting at the bottom of a whiskey glass. To complete the challenge, your lips must touch the toe as you finish the drink, with your reward being named an honorary ‘Sourdough’ (the term used to describe permanent residents of Dawson City). Like we said, memorable and quirky! 

Less quirky, but a must-visit, outside Dawson City you will find a relic of those bygone gold-founded glory days, in the form of Dredge No. 4, North America’s largest bucket-line, wood-hull dredge and, fittingly, located on Bonanza Creek Road. It is a monster: during its years of service, Dredge No.4 could process 1088 metric tons of gravel every hour, 13,732 cubic metres of gravel in 24 hours, and it did so for 240 days a year. These incredible operational figures hint at just how much gold was to be found in the region. 

Besides Dawson City and its historical background (plus its mountain biking trails – more on that later), there are a number of other towns in the Yukon that provide a mix of cultural and adventure-based activities. The biggest – and the perfect ‘basecamp’ for your Yukon exploration – is the capital of Whitehorse. 

Sprawled beside the mighty Yukon River, Whitehorse has everything you need as a visitor, from being the city you fly into from further afield, to being the base for a lot of outdoor/adventure guiding companies and home to numerous character-filled pubs. Add in excellent eateries, some great book shops and its own mix of First Nations and settler history, and it is easy to spend more than a few days exploring it. The city offers direct access to the Yukon River for paddling, as well as being well catered for in terms of bike paths and, further afield, some excellent mountain bike trail networks. Speaking of which…

On your bike!

Mountain biking has grown in popularity incredibly quickly in the Yukon over the past decade. And, really, it’s not hard to see how that has happened. The territory’s landscape feels like it has been shaped perfectly for mountain biking, with its big mountains, rolling hills, deep valleys and old First Nations and prospectors’ routes providing the base for what is hundreds of kilometres of trails and some amazing trail networks throughout, with a mix of trails for all rider skill levels. 

One of the Yukon mountain biking success stories is Carcross. An hour south of Whitehorse, this community has become a global hotspot for mountain biking tourists. This is due to the hard work by members of the community – not the least the local First Nations youth who, through a programme called ‘SingleTrack to Success’ built an amazing trail network on Montana Mountain, just out of town (a 2016 documentary, “Shift” details this great story). The result is a combo of sweet flowing singletrack and trails graded from beginner through to expert. The highlight trail (of many highlights!) is the Mountain Hero Mine Trail, a designed IMBA (International Mountain Bicycling Association) “Epic Ride”. Starting in the subalpine, this trail begins near the historic mine of the same name and drops down the mountain, where loads of fun follows.

Another community MTB success story is found in Dawson City where, again, members of the Tr’ondëk Hwëch’in First Nation youth have banded together to build a cracking trail network – dubbed the Moose Hide Trails – that offer a mix of downhill, enduro and cross-country trails, catering for all rider skill levels again. For the experienced rider, Paydirt and Dome Summit Trail are the picks, but there are plenty more that equal mountain biking’s ethos of being outdoors, having fun, and then celebrating with friends with food and drinks back in town. Check a short teaser video below (and to see the full film, click here).

Don’t think Whitehorse has missed out on the MTB revolution, either. The Yukon capital is surrounded by more than 700km of bike trails, ranging from the beautiful Yukon River Trail for families through to the multitude of trails found at Grey Mountain and Mount McIntyre, two of the main ‘hubs’ of trails surrounding the city. With extensive signposting and links between trails, Grey Mountain is a brilliant few days’ out on the bike, taking riders down steep drops, alongside pristine lakes and up along ridges that provide views across to the Coastal Mountains in the west. Mount McIntyre trails offer subalpine riding with even more knockout views to stop and enjoy, along with some more technical trails if you’re up for a challenge. The best thing about riding any of the trail network hubs surrounding Whitehorse – and yeah, we’ve mentioned this a few times now – is the cool microbreweries and eateries are so close for the end of the day post-ride celebrations. Say no more…

For those who prefer their cycling on the road, the Yukon caters more than very well for you, too. Whether you want to spend a few hours with the family cruising the Millennium Trail in Whitehorse as you explore the city (there’s also the cool Waterfront Trail), or venture further – and longer – on one of the territory’s highways, you’ll find riding in the Yukon easily accomplished. Road loops out and back from Whitehorse are popular here, as are slightly longer road cycling journeys, such as the Southern Lakes Loop that takes you from Whitehorse to pretty Carcross and back again. For the more experienced long-distance cyclist, there is, of course, always the challenge of the mighty 734km Dempster Highway, riding from its junction at the Klondike Highway all the way to the Arctic and Inuvik. Yep, it takes a bit more planning due to its remoteness but, simply put, what a ride it would be; enjoying that vast and always changing landscape, in your own company (besides, no doubt, chance wildlife encounters), with just the sound of your wheels turning on the gravel, would be brilliant.

Going wild

Even just thinking the words “the Yukon” conjures images in your mind of the territory’s iconic wildlife. Grizzly bears, black bears, caribou, moose, lynx, muskox, elk, beaver, wolves, Dall’s sheep, wolverines, eagles… the list of photogenic native fauna is lengthy. And, thanks to the territory being so sparsely populated, it is not that hard to spot any of these in the wild.

For optimum wildlife spotting, going with a guided company is a must. Also worth considering is the time of year, with spring one of the best, owing to the fact bears are coming out of hibernation and the famous Porcupine caribou herd (named after the Porcupine River region near the Beaufort Sea in the Arctic) is on the move, making its way from its winter grounds north before the calving season starts. With more than 220,000 in this herd, it is an incredible sight.

Bear spotting in the Yukon can happen at pretty much any time – and anywhere – so being bear-aware (carry bear spray if on foot/bike, etc.) will ensure any chance encounters will be happy memories. Moose are another iconic Yukon resident, and these can be often seen grazing in shallow sections of rivers or lake edges, as well as in forested areas. Again, and as with any wild animal encounter, maintain a safe and respectful distanced and you’ll reap the reward of an amazing wildlife experience. 

For those keen to learn more about the Yukon’s wildlife, the Yukon Wildlife Preserve, around 30 minutes’ drive from Whitehorse, includes a dozen species and offers a brilliant opportunity to both view and learn more about some of the Yukon’s native fauna. It is open all year round.

Your Yukon Territory adventure: all you need to know

At the time of writing, Aussie still cannot travel overseas, but that is actually a huge positive as it allows you time for extensive research and then planning of your Yukon Territory adventure. 

Getting there: This may surprise some, but even though the Yukon Territory seems like it is at the ‘ends of the earth’ it is not – and getting there entails a straightforward journey. Flights connecting Australia’s eastern seaboard (the majority from Sydney) to, firstly, Vancouver, and then directly on to Whitehorse mean you will be absorbing the spectacle that is the Yukon in no time at all. 

Getting around: The roads and highways in the Yukon are excellent and this, along with the long hours of daylight, mean road trips are brilliant fun here. Signposting is in abundance and very clear, and the Yukoners themselves are overwhelmingly friendly and helpful if you do need to ask for directions or tips on where to eat and stay. One thing: don’t forget Canadians drives on the ‘other’ side of the road to us Aussies. It sounds like a big thing but is not at all.

Weather: The Yukon in spring and summer means long days and short nights – especially in mid-summer and more so in the far north of the territory – which means there’s no rush to cram every day full of adventure; there are, literally, plenty of hours in each day. 

Accommodation: As well as the excellent wilderness lodges throughout the territory, the Yukon has options ranging from camping and RV parks and B&Bs, to hostels, hotels, motels, and rentals.

More information: For all things Yukon, see Travel Yukon 
Whether it is suggested visitor itineraries, excellent info on the various parts of the territory, ideas for how to plan for a visit, accommodation links, informative blogs or loads more, the Travel Yukon website is brilliant.

The post The Yukon Territory: Adventure under the midnight sun appeared first on Australian Geographic.

It didn’t look like the Red Centre. The track we were following in our 4WD was covered in tall grass that nearly reached the window, stretching to the horizon like a sea of green. It was only the brief, intermittent glimpses of the track’s twin red ribbons of dirt and the squirming of soft sand under the Sport’s wheels that confirmed our location, deep in the desert country southwest of Alice Springs. We couldn’t have got further away from our everyday city lives if we tried – and it felt fantastic.

It had been five years since we’d been out in the Red Centre on a 4X4 trip – two kids under five and all that entails took care of any spare time – but we’d decided this year was time for a return to one of the best touring and camping regions in Oz and had been counting down the months since we’d booked our flights at the start of the year. This was also our daughter Sarah’s first big off-road adventure and we’d been filling her in on the appeal of “all that red sand in the desert” – something we thought might actually be quite sparse after glimpsing the sea of green from the air as we flew into Alice.

Our plan was a quick week of touring and camping, with good mate and Alice Springs local John Stafford as our guide (John runs Alice Springs Expeditions and knows the Red Centre region like the proverbial back of his hand). I had travelled extensively with John over many years during my tenure as Editor of a 4WD magazine, so I was looking forward to a mix of great driving, awesome campsites, good company and the odd beer or three around a campfire. It was, in short, shaping up as the perfect Red Centre adventure. And said adventure started pretty well, too; I had been lucky enough to score a Range Rover Sport TDV6 as our rig for the week – complete with two spare wheels – and was keen to see how this latest incarnation of one of my favourite 4WD vehicles was going to perform in this sometimes challenging country. The shiny silver Rangie looked slightly lost parked at Alice Springs Airport among all the dusty Toyotas and Nissans, but I knew we’d soon rectify its “city” appearance.

John’s plan was for us to spend two days west of Alice Springs, exploring the area from Larapinta Drive south to Ernest Giles Road. This mini-expedition would include Owen Springs Reserve, Wallace Rockhole community and Finke Gorge National Park. We’d then return to Alice for a food and fuel top-up before striking east towards the remote Ruby Gap Nature Park for a couple of days to explore the area’s beautiful gorges, long, sandy river beds and doze down in some of the best campsites in the NT.

Our first day was a mix of bitumen and sandy desert tracks, once we’d turned off Larapinta Drive. As mentioned earlier the desert was engulfed by lush green grasses that had sprung up after a particularly precipitous wet season. We moved south as we tracked toward the low-lying rocky hills that comprise the tail end of the Waterhouse Range. The driving was relatively cruisy, with the Sport’s Terrain Response system set to “Sand” mode (Land Rover’s TR system has four different settings in the Sport that alter throttle response and traction control for optimum performance on different surfaces) to compensate for the vehicle’s road-biased tyres. The only sound – beside Sarah asking where all the red sand had disappeared to – was the brushing of grass on the Sport’s underbelly as we followed John’s Discovery 2 and camper-trailer through the sea of green.

The Red Centre: there’s nothing quite like it

There’s something about bush camping in remote country that sticks with you. Whether it is the fact you have the choice of pretty much anywhere to roll out your swag, or that you have the (increasingly rare) opportunity to sit around a campfire – and cook on it – while the southern stars grow brighter above your head, dossing down among all this is an always memorable experience. Our campsite for the first night was a nice clearing near a small gorge that cut through the rocky hills to our east. There was ample space to set up the camper-trailer, Oztent and swags, with plenty of firewood and space for the kids to get out and explore. We’d only been driving for three to four hours, but already we were a world away from the crazy pace of city life. And yeah, that sounds like a cliché, but that night – our first outback camp in five years – I was prepared to live it to the letter!

Another addition to living the cliché was not having to rush the next morning; the perfect outback sunrise greeted us when we decided to get out of bed and this was followed by a damn-near perfect cooked brekky, before packing up and then loading up all the camping gear. After a quick glance over the Hema Maps 4WD Maps app on my iPhone, it was time to turn west toward the aboriginal community of Wallace Rockhole where John was supposed to pick up some pottery from one of the community’s artists.

A quick 45-minute drive through stony, open desert country – dotted with brush and small, tough plants that seemed to thrive here – was all it took to reach the community, only to find it was pretty much deserted. The Alice Springs Show was on in town and we guessed that most of the locals had headed in to the Red Centre capital to check it out. We soon departed, following the track just north of town that turns west toward Finke Gorge National Park. The driving along this section was mainly red sand, with plenty of washouts mixed in with smoother sections as we passed more open country to our west, with the higher, more dramatic ridgelines of the James Range shadowing us to the south. It was once we reached the junction with the Boggy Hole track that we turned south and cut through the James Range itself, following the sandy bed of the dry Ellery Creek through Todd Glen, with more beautiful rugged red-rock cliffs on both sides of the track. We lowered our tyre pressure here; John’s Discovery 2 was running mud-terrain tyres so it was doing it easy, and even our Sport’s road-biased rubber wasn’t inhibiting us too much, but we took the safer-is-better option to increase our tyre contact patch to increase grip through the soft stuff. The drive through here was magic; the rocky cliffs contrasted with the sand and huge gums that followed the line of creeks that crisscrossed this area.

It took an hour or so to reach the junction of the Finke River and Ellery Creek, and it was a great mix of driving conditions, ranging from the ubiquitous soft sand to rocky sections and a few water crossings. There was plenty of water about and the last water crossing, just north of Boggy Hole itself, ended up being a non-event as the water was too deep for us to safely negotiate. We met a young lad in an old ex-army Land Rover who had just crossed it driving north and once he marked more than a metre up his Landy’s door with his hand, we knew the Rangie – with no snorkel – would have been (excuse the pun) well and truly out of its depth. The detour around also saw us meet another group of four vehicles – the only others we saw all trip – and then it was just an hour on to our second camp on a wide stretch of the Finke River, complete with a waterhole at the southern end for the kids to explore, and a spectacular cliff-face lit up by the sun as it dropped below the ranges behind us that evening.

A taste of town then on to the far east

It was a mix of dry (and wet) riverbeds and the tall sand dunes of the Palmer River section of Finke Gorge NP that comprised our continued journey south the next morning. The night had been colder than the previous one as the last of the cloudy weather disappeared, and it looked like staying that way for the remainder of our Red Centre stay. The drive south to Ernest Giles Road was pretty quick, but tinged with a slight regret that we didn’t have longer to enjoy this part of the Centre. However, Alice Springs was calling; we’d chewed through most of our food and both vehicles needed a refuel before we’d be able to turn east to Ruby Gap Nature Park.

The benefits of the Range Rover Sport’s capability were never more obvious than the shift from slow, sandy driving to the fast highway blast back to Alice. The vehicle hadn’t put a foot wrong to this point, with the only slight niggles being its width when it came to squeezing between trackside vegetation and the fact it didn’t have low-range gearing (it’s an optional extra on Range Rover Sport). Not that that had made any difference where we’d driven; the Terrain Response settings and the Sport’s impressive drivability in rugged terrain had made it all seem too easy. The ability of the vehicle to dust itself off after a few days in the sand and rocks, and then shoot us smoothly and rapidly to our destination was impressive. Our few days in the proverbial middle of nowhere made Alice Springs seem busier than what it really is, but we knew it was only a short stopover before a few nights back out bush again. And it was rather nice to tuck into a beautifully cooked steak and some draft beer at dinner that night…

The great thing with the NT is that there never seems to be a hurry to get anywhere. This suited us fine and meant a leisurely start to the next leg out to Ruby Gap, with some shopping taken care of in the morning before we hit the Ross Highway. The trip on bitumen and then graded dirt was uneventful and after a quick stop at Arltunga (the well preserved historical gold mining site – well worth a look), which was extended slightly as we helped a couple change a flat tyre and then stopped off at Ross River Homestead for some beer, we drove deeper into the steep hills of the Atnarpa Range, chasing the sunset.

The track into Ruby Gap is brilliant; it becomes progressively rougher as the scenery ups the wow factor, making the concentration and effort required to drive it more than worthwhile. Once we reached the entrance to the park and deposited the camping fees in the park fee box, it was time to really soak up this amazing part of the Red Centre.

The name Ruby Gap is something of a misnomer; in 1886 David Lindsay reported finding what he presumed were rubies in the Hale riverbed. This led to a mini ruby rush that lasted only a couple of years before prospectors (and buyers) realised these “rubies” were in fact garnets. We weren’t looking for precious stones but we did find excellent four-wheel driving along the Hale River, with its sandy base just dry enough to ensure we didn’t become bogged as we drove further into the park looking for a campsite. Up until this point we had, again, only encountered a couple of oncoming vehicles and this sense of remoteness continued for the rest of the day. We passed one other campsite – the couple there were very well set up – before we found our own slice of camping paradise another 500m or so upriver. With a great view back down the valley, a few reasonable sized waterholes right below us, and no-one else around, it was brilliant – the perfect base for a couple of nights.

On our second morning we decided to explore further up the gorge, finding the going pretty easy until the last section of high, jagged rocks and drop-offs saw the Sport reach its limit. John’s lifted Discovery 2 got through but the Sport’s longer belly and road-biased tyres robbed us of further exploration (I reckon with some chunkier, higher-profile mud-terrain tyres we would have made it). Not that we were complaining; it simply handed us the perfect excuse to return to camp and enjoy the rest of the day having a yarn and downing a few beers while the kids explored nearby. For me, this was one of the major bonuses of this trip; Sarah’s first outback adventure had been everything she’d hoped for (going by her pleas to not return to Sydney). This, in turn, gave me the perfect excuse to start planning our next outback trip – a topic that took up a good part of the afternoon – and a few beers…

All good things must come to an end

That night we saw more stars in the sky than I can remember despite my many years of outback touring, and the following morning we were greeted by a simply brilliant sunrise. If we spotted a film crew making the most of this perfect image of “Outback Australia” I wouldn’t have been in the slightest bit surprised. But, thankfully for us, we had it all to ourselves.

The week of camping and off-roading had been, as these trips usually are, way too short. We’d barely touched on the huge number of great campsites and awesome locations that are available Australia’s Red Centre, but even as we drove back into Alice, soaking up the last magnificent taste of the outback, we were planning a return. A too-short visit to the awesome Alice Springs Desert Park was a great way to finish the experience for all of us – especially Sarah as she at last got to see a dingo (we’d had some footprints around camp but hadn’t spotted any when out and about) as well as the Desert Park’s awesome Birds of Prey show.

The Red Centre has enough spectacular offerings to keep any off-road tourer enthralled for months, if not years, and our plans to come back here made our return to city living much easier to handle; our time back in the hustle and bustle would just be viewed as a necessary delay before we could return to this vast timeless land.

The young adventurer

Travelling with a young child – especially when it involves a few hours in a vehicle each day – can be a daunting prospect for parents. And so it was for my wife and I when we decided to tackle this week-long vehicle-based adventure. We’ve been on a few weekend camping trips but these were summer-based at a beach campground so there were plenty of activities to keep the young’uns occupied. Driving between campsites in the desert, however, is a bit different; packing some of Sarah’s favourite toys and offering her heaps of encouragement beforehand worked wonders on this Red Centre camping trip.

Sarah even managed to find one of Rachel’s old digital cameras and became a shutterbug on the trip, happily taking photos out the window of the vehicle and when we were camped for the night. Getting young kids involved in the packing and unpacking at a campsite is a great way to make them feel a part of the “big adventure”, as did cooking marshmallows around the campfire, while educating on fire safety.

Something different and intriguing will always work with young minds, and such was the case with this adventure for Sarah. She became so enamoured with the Red Centre that it became a case of convincing her that we really should head home at some point.

Fact File

Alice Springs has all the amenities you will need to stock up for an off-road adventure in the surrounding region. Accommodation ranges from luxury resorts and hotels to excellent caravan parks and camping grounds.

For all national park visitor fees and camping fees, plus track conditions, check out parksandwildlife.nt.gov.au

Alice Springs Expeditions runs day, overnight and longer 4WD trips to a number of locations around Alice Springs and beyond. For info on the guided trips – there is even the option to make up your own bespoke adventure – see www.alicespringsexpeditions.com.au

Finke Gorge National Park is 138km west of Alice Springs, via Larapinta Drive. As well as the 4X4 track that runs north-south through this park, there is also a side track to Palm Valley and its campground, which is well worth a visit. Be fully prepared when driving in this park – take plenty of recovery gear and check beforehand as to whether the track is open. Bush camping is free along this route.

Ruby Gap Nature Park is 150km east of Alice Springs, via the Ross Highway. The final track in is for high-clearance 4X4 vehicles only. The campsites are dotted along the riverbank with plenty of space between them. There are no facilities. Camping fees apply.

The best time to visit the Red Centre is from April through to the end of October.

The Alice Springs Desert Park is well worth a look if you’ve got a half- to full-day in town. See www.alicespringsdesertpark.com.au

The post The NT’s Red Centre: An Outback Road Trip appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Maybe I should have spent last night researching. But I didn’t. Instead, I spent a night immersed in the luxury of NPWS-managed Creel Bay Cottages. From the air-conditioned comfort of a spacious living room, I watched eastern grey kangaroos and Bennett’s wallabies bound in front of a deep blue Lake Jindabyne. Such a retreat is a place for relaxing, or cooking up a storm on a weekend escape, or sitting fireside and sinking a Kiandra Golden Ale with a group of mates post ride. It’s certainly not a place to stare at a screen doing ‘research’.

I reassured Loz that her sole singletrack experience, coupled with a few firetrail rides and her regular workout regime, would more than suffice for our MTB excursion into the wilds of Kosciuszko NP (for our expert guide to starting mountain biking, see here). The bonus being the 18.4km Lower TVT finishes less than a 10-minute drive from Creel Bay Cottages so getting home would be a breeze. How hard could it be? 

To ensure more stoke than sweat, I forewent my original plan of a one-day 55km epic and split our fun into two more enjoyable days. Day one involved meeting with ‘Turns’ a trail-building mate of mine, to explore Thredbo’s iconic gravity trails and the Upper TVT, while day two would launch us into the wilds of the Lower TVT.

With Loz on work duties for day one, I took to the mountain with Turns, and we had a blast. Thredbo’s gravity trails offer plenty of high speed, fast flowy action coupled with technical riding, and we linked the All-Mountain trails to the Upper TVT for a more relaxed afternoon cruise. We even wrapped with plenty of time for a beer and burger at ‘The Local’ post-ride, and to discuss how the Lower TVT has linked two riding destinations into one.

The missing MTB link

For more than two decades, Thredbo and the infamous Cannonball downhill run has been home to lift-accessed downhill mountain biking in Australia, but things are changing, and changing for the better. Full face helmets and body armour are no longer a prerequisite for getting on a chairlift; all you need are two wheels, an open mind, with an open-faced lid. 

The continuing expansion of Thredbo’s trail network has broadened the resort’s appeal to a new style of rider: the all-mountain crew. And this new lineup varies from experts and intermediates all the way to novices and families.

Thirty-five kilometres away, the lakeside townships of Jindabyne, East Jindabyne and Tyrolean Village have their own trail network, a crew of avid riders and a plethora of riding, from lakeside cycle paths to suicidal downhill trails… and everything in between. But for decades there has been a missing link between the two hubs. 

Fortunately, in 2015, progressive minds at NPWS secured nearly 9.8 million dollars to fill the void and employed expert trail-building company Dirt Art to complete the missing link: the Lower Thredbo Valley Track.

Local trail expert, and now Dirt Art operations manager, Mark Eccleston was employed as project manager to sculpt near 20 kilometres of mountain bike nirvana in the remote montane forest to the north of the Thredbo River. The terrain was rugged and inaccessible, the weather fickle and access abominable.

“One day we would bush-bash for eight hours and the next day lower 120 bags of gravel through the tree canopy via helicopter,” Mark divulges.

The track crew commuted more than two hours each day on mountain bikes, riding in from the trailhead, or midway point where they ferried bikes, gear and bodies across the Thredbo River, tethered to a rope in a flat bottom boat. Flying foxes were set up in the trees to move rock for retaining walls; and all this had to be done on time and within budget. 

It was a numbers game, as Mark reveals.

“The excavator could build six and a half metres of track for every litre of fuel and each person would drink six to seven litres of water on a hot day. We could tell who didn’t drink enough water as they would suffer and lag on the way out. But this is my legacy trail. Every track builder has a legacy trail, one that stands out above the rest. I overhear people at the pub, or in the supermarket who are excited about the trail and it’s a good feeling. That’s what I do it for. Oh, and I get paid to ride my bike.” 

In the Lower TVT, NPWS has envisaged, and then created, one of the most iconic MTB trails in Australia. The bonus is the trail can be split into multiple sections to allow for cruisy riverside family riding, adrenaline fuelled singletrack descents or lung-busting enduro MTB riding. The only exception to the rule is the Lower TVT. This remote part of the trail offers a start and a finish with no access in between. 

Maybe, just maybe, I should have noted the trail grading for ‘day-two’ whilst sitting at the pub regaling tall-tales of going over the bars on the old ‘Snakes & Ladders’ section of the DH trail. Instead, I considered the pleasant cruise on the Upper TVT and prepped for a cruisy fun day out. Little did I realise the Lower TVT would be a different beast.

Alpine to Ales

If you are like me, then an epic ride begins with coffee. Launching an MTB adventure from Thredbo village is no different.

You might be a Cascades Café kind of girl, or a bakery kind of guy, or maybe you prefer the coffee at Central Road (I know I do… yum). There’s a solid handful of foody options to choose from, and if you’re the last-minute kind of crew then Avalanche Café is only metres from the Kosciuszko Express Chairlift.

From 9:30am the iconic Kosciuszko Express opens to mountain bikers. A relatively short fifteen-minute ride saves a 560m climb and offloads you and your steed at 1937m above sea level. If you are even more of a last-minute kind of posse, then Eagles Nest Restaurant is your final chance to fuel up before you descend, but be sure to book beforehand if the mountain is busy. Fifty metres from Eagles Nest is the trailhead.

Two wheeled adventurers are immediately launched into one of the most scenic MTB trails in Australia, the All Mountain Trail Upper. Weaving amongst house sized granite boulders, the flowy trail traverses a landscape of alpine herb fields, wildflower meadows, feldmark and bogs, often above the valley cloud. Bridges span cascading creeks and intermittent rock gardens or rollovers offer intermediate-friendly technical challenges amongst the endless snaking trail.

Only a few kilometres from the trailhead and cyclists descend into the ancient snow gum forest. It is here where you must choose to continue on the slightly longer All Mountain Trail Lower or cut back on Easy Street to link to the newest of Thredbo’s trails, Ricochet. Both trails offer flowy switchbacks and fun features and allow for riders to transition to the lower portion of the Friday Flat Loop to arrive at the Upper TVT.

Having descended ten kilometres and more than half a vertical kilometre of endorphin ecstasy, it’s time to let the braking fingers relax a little. It’s here where the Upper TVT offers a cruisy, flowy single-track alongside the Thredbo river. The green rated trail is perfect for novices and families and the faster you go, the more fun the meandering track becomes. After 9.3km of criss-crossing the Thredbo River on purpose built suspension bridges, riders arrive at Ngarigo campground. Ngarigo is a great place to cool feet in the river and relax for a power bar and a break. Beyond Ngarigo, and onto Thredbo Diggings campground, the trail gets more technical. Switchbacks and short climbs present amongst the tall montane forest. Both campsites offer easy vehicle access, camper-trailer and tent camping in open grassland by the river; a great option if you prefer to camp during your stay. 

Beyond ‘the Diggings’ the TVT meanders two and a half kilometres to Bullocks Flat, where a short 1km detour to Alpine Larder at Lake Crackenback Resort offers an expansive menu and a second coffee if you are like me. Lake Crackenback Resort offers a more luxurious MTB accommodation experience if you aren’t the camping type and prefer to split your TVT experience into two. The resort offers a shuttle service to the start and end of the Upper and Lower sections, so it can be a perfect halfway hub for your MTB adventures.

The Lower Thredbo Valley Track – the MTB fun begins

Beyond Bullocks Flat is where the MTB fun begins. Leaving the resort grounds, the trail is relatively mellow and lulls riders into a false sense of security, however a few short sharp climbs offer a wake-up to the unprepared. Fortunately, for every switchback climb, riders are rewarded with high-speed eye watering descents. Short bridges deliver speedy creek crossings and high-G corners fling riders into their next climb… before the fun begins all over again. Somewhere along the line, alpine bogs threaten to curb the fun, but NPWS helicoptered in hundreds of metres of raised platform to save the day. Instead, riders roll smoothly above the grasses, trees, moss and wetlands. 

As the track descends, adrenaline ascends… flowy single-track offers a taste of everything. Small rock gardens occasionally test tech skills while glimpses of the Thredbo River call you for a refreshing dip. Looking closely, benches built from natural timbers or tree stumps appear along the way, as do massive rocky retaining walls. There is no doubt, the trail builders were master craftsmen. But don’t get too cushy, for just as your legs begin to burn, and you realise you haven’t eaten enough, or hydrated enough, the trail demands payment.

If, like me, you’ve realised halfway that it’s time to hustle so as not to miss your shuttle, then you are in for a treat. The dual-switchback climbs, become triple-switchbacks. Then they grow steeper and longer and then you begin to lose count as your heart thumps in your temples and your legs burn. 

I certainly began to wonder whether the hurt was worth the reward and as if to raise further doubt, an exhausted Loz clips a tree root, flips over the bars and gets wedged upside down between two rocks. We both laugh as she extricates herself from her landing place, then has a small chuckle before jumping back on her bike.

Only minutes later we’re both back hooting and hollering on the next fast descent and the trail crew are once again forgiven. What follows are short and sharp leg-burning climbs followed by tight switchback descents;  it’s a mountain bikers nirvana, assuming you are fit. If, like me, you have a few extra Covid kilograms to deal with, then it’s nirvana, turned hell, turned nirvana, turned pain, turned nirvana. You get the gist.

Eventually the Lower TVT spits riders out into wide open meadows of grassland dotted with mobs of kangaroos. If you’ve timed your ride to perfection, the late sun offers a golden glow as the trail meanders the final few kilometres to Gaden Trout Hatchery.

Exhausted but stoked

Having plummeted from the roof of Oz to the bubbling brooks of Gaden Trout Hatchery we find ourselves exhausted but very content. Loz looks shattered and is covered in trail dust, but she soon rolls over and chuckles to herself. “Is everything OK?” I ask.

“Well, I can’t feel my left leg… my fingers are tingly from braking, and I’ve eaten more dirt in last four hours than in my entire life. But, other than that, I think everything is okay.” She laughs.

“Great,” I reply. “Should we keep going to the brewery?” 

It’s only a further ten kilometres, via Jindabyne’s scenic lakeside trails, to the door of Jindabyne Brewery, where a traditional German mountain ale in the form of a Hefe Weiss Bier awaits. Maybe the aptly named Alpine Red is more to your taste, or even an Island Bend Pilsner.

Whatever your taste, you’ll certainly have earned a pint or two of the good stuff and be able to kick back and enjoy the accomplishment of having experienced one of the best long distance one-day MTB trails Australia has to offer, or what I prefer to call the ‘Alpine to Ales’.

FACT FILE

The Lower Thredbo Valley Track
Starts: at 1,148m
Finishes: at 928m
Total Fall: 219m (Overall)
Includes: 120m Climbing 
Includes: 331m Descent
Average time: 2-4 hours
Track open: November-May
Check conditions and alerts on the NPWS website before setting out: nswparks.info/tvtadventure

ACCOMMODATION

Self Catered 
Creel Bay Cottages & Lodge – Great option for groups, with 3 or 4 bed properties available. Situated overlooking Lake Jindabyne, it’s a handy base for riding the TVT with Gaden Trout Hatchery only a 10min drive. To book: nswparks.info/creelbay

Camping 
Thredbo Diggings Campground & Ngarigo Campground – both are situated by the Thredbo River and are suitable for tents, camper trailers as well as caravans. Great budget option in a good location with plenty of mountain biking, hiking and fishing on your doorstep. 

FOOD & DRINK

Thredbo 
Central Road 2625 – Coffee, breakfast, lunch.
The Local Pub – A top spot for a post-ride beer and burger.

Crackenback 
Crackenback Farm – Relaxed restaurant offering an interesting menu using seasonal produce incorporating home grown herbs and garden vegetables.

Jindabyne
Alpine Larder – Pre-ride coffee and brekkie, lunch or post-ride dinner and beer 
The Market – Coffee shop plus bulk wholefoods to stock up with. 
Birchwood Café – Coffee and great brekkie options plus burgers and tacos.
Red Door – Good coffee.

The post Riding The Lower Thredbo Valley Track: The MTB Missing Link appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Tropical North Queensland (TNQ) is renowned for its magic coastline. From Cardwell in the south (with the hike and paddle icon of Hinchinbrook Island offshore), to the TNQ ‘capital’ of Cairns, it is easy to explore this amazing landscape. From the beautiful beaches and water of the Coral Sea, to the green hills of the hinterland, from gorges and waterfalls, to 4WD touring and fun mountain bike trails, you will want to take your time on this route.

For kayakers, a sunrise paddle off Mission Beach is a definite. The chance to spend time in this pretty village, paddle a few offshore islands (the Family Islands) and spot plenty of marine life makes a great  start to this journey. Speaking of being fortunate, if you are even more so, you may spot the elusive cassowary wandering along the beaches here – this part of TNQ has a high density of these native flightless birds. A note of caution: the cassowary is not road-aware, please drive carefully. 

For more in this magic part of the coast, check out Mission Beach Charters’ snorkelling and diving trips – you can even camp on your ‘own’ island for a night. 

For MTB explorers, the next stop is northwest, into the forest-clad ranges of Tully Gorge and Wooroonooran national parks. Here, in the Misty Mountains, you can access tracks that offer the chance to really explore these two national parks. Each track or road is graded either Green (easy) or Blue (intermediate) and there’s one Black (hard) grade route – the Cardwell Range Track. Top rides include the Blue-grade Gorrell Track (25.8km one-way; the trailhead is via the town of Mena Creek, northwest of Silkwood) and, for families, we’d recommend the K-Tree, Bora Ground and Maalan Roads track (15km one-way; Easy). The trailhead is off the Palmerston Highway and it is a loop that takes you back to the Palmerston Hwy and then it’s downhill to your car. 

One final activity y you can’t miss on this Cardwell-Cairns journey is the hike up Mt Bartle-Frere which is, at 1622m, Queensland’s tallest peak. The 15km return trek from the eastern side is a challenge but one that any fit person can accomplish in a day with an early start (you can also hike it from the western side, with the start point a quarter of the way up the mountain – nice!). The hike begins at Josephine Falls carpark and you will cross numerous creeks, before the steep climb up to Eastern Summit Camp. If you do have the time, it’s well worth camping a night here. After the campsite, you continue on to the rugged, rocky summit. It’s a big day but a brilliant achievement and the views from the top are incredible. Plus, at the end, back at Josephine Falls, you can reward yourself with a swim before continuing north on to Cairns.

Chasing waterfalls

We’re not sure if Australia actually has a “waterfall appreciation society”, but if there were such a thing, Tropical North Queensland would be its spiritual home. The region’s combination of high rainfall, powerful rivers and steep escarpments, result in an abundance of waterfalls, fed by myriad streams that run off the surrounding high peaks. As a basis for a memorable TNQ road-trip, it is hard to beat, with your only ‘problem’ (and we use that term loosely) being how many you can fit in. Here’s our suggestion for a two- to three-day waterfall loop starting and finishing at Cairns.

Located at the base of Mt Bartle Frere (Queensland’s highest peak, at 1622m) in Wooroonooran National Park, Josephine Falls is a spectacular, multi-tiered waterfall, and one that is very easy to access, being only an hour’s drive south along the Bruce Highway (A1) from Cairns. From the carpark, Josephine Falls is about a five-minute (600m) walk through dense rainforest to the Bottom Pool. This pool is the most popular for swimming as it is wide, relatively shallow, and spacious.

There are three separate pools that make up the falls, with Bottom Pool and Middle Creek accessible and open for swimming. Top Pool and the smaller pool above are considered off-limits as the cliffs and rocks here are steep and slippery. There are two viewing platforms (at Bottom Pool and Middle Creek) that provide excellent photographic viewpoints. These, plus the swimming, make it very easy to spend a full day here – but we have other plans… 

From Josephine Falls, take the Palmerston Highway west to the Tablelands. There’s a good reason for the Palmerston Hwy suggestion: Nandroya Falls is the third waterfall of a cluster in the Palmerston area of Wooroonooran National Park, that includes nearby Wallicher and Tchupala (you can do a half-day hike that takes in all three, starting at Henrietta Creek camping area). Nandroya is different in appearance to its southern neighbours, with the waters of Douglas Creek flowing over a straight 50m drop from a tree-shrouded basalt parapet. This waterfall is best seen after heavy rain but even when not at full flow, is still worth a visit; the large swimming hole below the falls is brilliant in itself. You can reach the waterfall quite easily by crossing the footbridge over Henrietta Creek and then, when you reach the first track junction, taking the left path for about 1.6km up the Douglas Creek valley. If you go this way, you will also pass Silver Creek Falls.

Claimed to be the most photographed in Australia; Millaa Millaa Falls’ spectacle is only matched by the ease of which it is accessed from its namesake township of Millaa Millaa in the southern part of the Atherton Tablelands. The waterfall is just off the Palmerston Highway, and then via Theresa Creek Road (about five minutes from town), hence its popularity with day visitors. It is also the start of Aus Geo Adventure’s own personalised waterfall loop. This includes the signposted ‘official waterfall circuit’ that comprises Millaa Millaa, Ellinjaa and Zillie, along with our own additions – Pepina, Souita and Mungalli. It’s a full day of touring, but absolutely brilliant. 

Best described as a cascade-style waterfall, Millaa Millaa Falls drop 18m to a pool below that is perfect for swimming. It will be busy when you visit, which makes it even more amazing that you may – if you’re lucky and patient – spot the reclusive platypus here – most likely in the early morning or afternoon (you may also see them at Pepina Falls around the same times of day). Like most of the waterfalls in this region, Millaa Millaa is the result of the erosion of volcanic basalt that, in this case, has created easily discernible vertical pillar-like formations that contribute to its photogenic appearance. Yes, it really does look like a fantasy land come to life.

After Millaa Millaa Falls (and any of the aforementioned five above) you can stay up in the Tablelands (Yungaburra or Atherton have great accommodation options) and then return to Cairns along Gillies Range Road. This is a great way to finish this route, with the village of Yungaburra a must-do; great food and coffee await, here. Then, you get to enjoy the leisurely descent through a rainforest wonderland. Not a bad way to finish off a brilliant few days in TNQ.

The reef and the rainforest

Known as the Great Barrier Reef Drive, this route snakes north from Cairns, following the coast beside pristine Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. It takes you through the ancient rainforests of the Daintree, taking a side-trip to the coastal gem that is Cape Tribulation, and then tackling one of the most amazing off-road routes in Australia – the Bloomfield Track – before you reach history-rich Cooktown. It is also worth noting that this is part of the beautiful Wet Tropics Rainforests. Yep, amazing.

This week-long journey is a microcosm of TNQ. The mix of sandy beaches, ancient forests, mighty waterways, a plethora of native fauna, the rich aboriginal culture, bushwalks, diving, fishing, paddling and 4WDing mean you’d be hard pressed to pack in any more TNQ adventure. 

The first section links Cairns to Port Douglas, hugging the coast with pristine beaches and that blue of the Coral Sea as company. Near Port Douglas is a side-trip to Mossman Gorge, with the indigenous tourism-developed Mossman Gorge Centre a must-visit. You are on the south-eastern corner of the Daintree National Park here, so a night at Mossman allows for exploration. Alternatively, stay at Port Douglas and head out to dive the GBR. 

From Mossman, continue north along the Mosman-Daintree Road, before reaching the turn-off to Cape Tribulation, where the vehicle ferry crosses the Daintree River and then continues north (the Daintree Discovery Centre, is a worth stop here). It’s then on to Cape Tribulation. We’d recommend a night (or two) here, specifically so you can walk to the beach and watch for the elusive cassowary. Then, you can tackle a few of the walks in the area.

North of Cape Tribulation, the 4WD fun beings. The Bloomfield Track is a 30km road that takes you from Cape Trib, across creeks and rivers and then some steep sections of track through the Donovan Range, on your way to joining the CREB Track, the main road to Cooktown. Along the way, have a dip at Woobadda River and  check out Bloomfield Falls as well as the aboriginal community of Wujal Wujal. 

The Bloomfield Track rejoins the CREB Track just south of Bloomfield itself and then becomes the Bloomfield Road as it continues north to Cooktown. This part of the drive offers a mix of aboriginal culture and relics of early European settlement. One such relic is the historic Lions Den Hotel, a timber/iron pub built in 1875, that has accommodation available. It’s the quintessential Cape York pub.

You will rejoin the sealed surface of the Mulligan Highway and then it is a straightforward run to Cooktown. In this final section there are side-trips to Archer Point, a top fishing spot in Annan River (Yuku Baja Muliku) NP. Just before Cooktown is the Keatings Lagoon Conservation Park – popular with birdwatchers. Then, you’re in Cooktown itself, with its mix of historic buildings, botanical gardens, epic fishing, and the chance to take a cruise along the Endeavour River to spot saltwater crocs. The town is celebrating Cook’s landing in 2021 (it was postponed in 2020 for obvious COVID-related reasons). 

For hikers, the 6km/4hr-return trek up Mt Cook, south of town, is a must-do, and there’s plenty to see here. Once you’ve enjoyed Cooktown, take the ‘other way’ back to Cairns, via the Inland Road. It showcases the Tablelands and TNQ outback perfectly!

See Tropical North Queensland road trips for more info on these and other awesome adventures.

The post Tropical North Queensland road trips: Three of the best appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park

Claimed to be the most popular national park in WA, this 19,092-hectare giant justifies its claim to that crown thanks to the shed-load of activities available. Surfing, swimming, diving, hiking (the famous Cape to Cape multi-day hike is located here; more on that later), cycling, touring, camping, fishing and more are all possible here. Add in the epic landscape of pristine coastline abutting the often-ferocious swells of the Indian Ocean, meshed with heavily timbered forest behind the dunes, plus historic homesteads and lighthouses, some amazing caves (thanks to the Leeuwin-Naturaliste ridgeline), and it fills that cliché of something for everyone. To that effect, the park is a long-weekend destination at a minimum. Thanks to its manageable distance from Perth, that just gives you the excuse to return more than once – and you’ll most definitely want to.

The park has four campgrounds – Boranup, Point Road, Conto and Jarrahdene – with all of these being of the first-arrive, best-score type. Point Road has probably the most appeal to those looking for a slightly ‘quieter’ camping experience and is accessed via a 4X4-only track. It is a small campground (it has space for roughly seven tents) sheltered from winds on the edge of the Boranup karri forest, with access to the nearby coastline via Point Road itself. Conto campground, with 116 sites, is ideal for larger groups and those after a bit more space along with some ‘luxuries’, such as a campers’ kitchen, tables, toilets and barbecues. It is located next to Conto Springs Beach. Boranup is another small campground (seven sites only) in the middle of Boranup karri forest, so if you want that bit of solitude (either here or at Point Road) you will need to be quick – especially in summer and school holiday periods – as both these smaller campgrounds fill up fast.

Jarrahdene campground is a schmick new addition to the bush accommodation options in the park. The campground is south of the Margaret River and nestled beside the historic site of the Heritage-listed Jarrahdene Mill, built in 1896 (there are some ruins here to check out). The campground, to date, has 24 camp sites (each with its own table and fire-pit), with five toilet blocks and four sheltered barbecue areas scattered throughout. 

The Cape to Cape walking track is rated one of Australia’s best multi-day hiking experiences and, as its name suggests, it travels between Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse in the north and its Cape Leeuwin counterpart in the south (both these are open to visitors). The full distance is 135km, but you can walk a number of the track’s sections as day-walks or even shorter ambles if you wish.

For swimming or diving, there are numerous beaches to choose from; the more sheltered Cape Naturaliste and Shelley Cove in the north offer ideal swim spots for families, along with Bunker Bay, located on the northern side of Cape Naturaliste. 

Anglers can fish all along the coastline – and off-shore (in your own boat or with a fishing charter company). Expect to (hopefully) catch salmon, snapper, tailor and dhufish – but be aware of bag limits and please only keep what you will eat. 

The park contains numerous caves, with visitors able to visit and explore any number of them, including Calgardup and Giants Cave. For those not up to an independent caving experience, you can opt for guided tours of Mammoth Cave and Lake Cave.

So yeah, as you can see, Leeuwin-Naturaliste NP is chockas with stuff to do. Our best advice: tackle a long weekend first in the north, then return a few more times to spend weekends in the south, and then exploring the park hinterland. And then do it all again.

Drive the Gibb River Road

Exploring the Gibb River Road – and getting the most out of the experience – is a matter of time; the more you have, the more memorable the adventure for you and your family/friends. To really do this journey any type of justice, we recommend a minimum of 10 days on the actual GRR itself. If at all possible, though, it is worth extending it to 14 days (or longer) as you drive this iconic route between Kununurra, just west of the NT/WA border and Derby, in north-west WA, on the shores of King Sound. (Note: most folks continue on to the tourist hub of Broome, right on the coast; this town is busy during peak season but is a must-stay.) 

The Gibb River Road itself is, to be kind, a relatively mundane drive in terms of any challenges, although not without excitement if you’re travelling it early in the season and the river crossings are high, or the track hasn’t been graded since the previous touring season (usually May through to October). It is best travelled in a 4WD and (preferably) in a diesel variant as there is some considerable distances between fuel outlets (mostly at stations and resorts).

It is the attractions located just off the Gibb River Road that see this off-road jaunt through the Kimberley’s heart sitting near the top of the ‘iconic 4WD adventures’ lists. The many gorges along the road are spectacular – Bell, Windjana, and Emma gorges are just a few examples – and the station stays are brilliant fun. Mt Barnett Roadhouse has a top campground, Home Valley Station has oodles of activities, but it is Mt Elizabeth Station that is the standout for this author, thanks to the sublime Wunnumurra Gorge, reached via a 10km 4X4 track from the station homestead. This gorge is fed from the Barnett River, via a waterfall, and if you swim to the other end of the large pool, you will find some brilliant indigenous rock art. Oh, and speaking of awesome station stays: don’t be put off by El Questro’s pricey reputation – it has a fantastic (and reasonably priced) campsite, some great swimming holes (such as Emma Gorge), loads of 4WD tracks to explore, and some excellent boat and 4WD guided tours.

The campground at Bell Gorge can be busy (tour buses often stay here), but it is still worth staying a few days; the swimming here is excellent and there are numerous bushwalking tracks in and around the gorge that make for fantastic short walks.

Some of the side trips worth considering include the epic track to Kalumburu community in the northern Kimberley that allows you to visit Mitchell Falls (an adventure in itself) on the way; a foot-borne exploration of Windjana Gorge (the best location in which to spot the shy freshwater crocodile – the campground here is excellent as well) and nearby Tunnel Creek, where you can retrace the tracks of famous aboriginal bushranger Jandamara; and paddling (canoe, kayak or raft) the Fitzroy River and Dimond Gorge, while ogling the wide variety of native bird- and wildlife at Mornington Wilderness Camp, run by the Australian Wildlife Conservancy. 

If you’re coming from the eastern seaboard and haven’t got four weeks spare to “do the Gibb” properly (that includes actually getting to the starting point and returning, without rushing), then you’re doing this top-tier destination a disservice. Yep, that’s a lot of time, but the Gibb River Road really is that amazing.

Explore the Coral Coast

A mix of desert country and World Heritage-listed marine parks (Ningaloo and Shark Bay) that offers adventure for every outdoors fanatic, whether you’re an avid 4WD tourer, a keen angler, or a water baby. Three hours north of Perth, the Pinnacles Desert is a must-visit, just to walk among the thousands of unique limestone formations that jut from the red sand to the sky.

For marine encounters of the giant kind, you’ll need to fly to Learmonth from Perth, then get ready for the ultimate marine experience: snorkelling on Ningaloo Reef and encounters with the reef’s many (500) species of fish. If you time your visit perfectly (between June and November) you will have the opportunity to dive with the gentle giant of the sea, the whale shark.

The largest of all fishes, the whale shark is also one of the most reclusive, and even here in the Indian Ocean waters off the town of Exmouth, there is only a short timeframe in which to view the plankton-eating behemoths, which can reach lengths of up to 10 metres. 

Whale sharks only frequent Ningaloo Reef from around March to early July (there are numerous ‘dive with the whale sharks’ tour operators who are all fully accredited), aligned with the time coral spawning takes place on the reef, which also results in an increase in plankton to the area. Forget the scary connotations around the word ‘shark’, too; the whale shark is strictly a plankton fan, hoovering up its favourite food by filtering it through its (toothless) jaws. Their gentle nature means they take little notice of humans swimming/diving nearby (you are required to stay a minimum of 3 metres from the fish) offering a fantastic marine experience.

Shark Bay Marine Park’s Dirk Hartog Island National Park also offers plenty for the weekend adventurer with diving, fishing and 4WD-based touring all available. And don’t forget the dolphins of nearby Monkey Mia. Whatever your views on how the human/marine mammal relationship has possibly been skewed here, it’s still a unique experience seeing these gentle creatures up close.

More information

To visit (or camp at) Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park: See Parks & Wildlife Service Western Australia.

To find info and plan your Gibb River Road adventure across the Kimberley, see Australia’s northwest.

See Hema Maps for the best maps, guidebooks and touring information on the Gibb River Road, the Kimberley, the Pilbara and other regions of WA.

For info on the Coral Coast, see Tourism Western Australia’s Coral Coast online.

See Tourism Western Australia for all things WA.

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Hike the Thorsborne Trail

Hinchinbrook Island sits 8km off Queensland’s Cardwell coast (the small town of Cardwell is roughly midway between Cairns and Townsville) and is the physical embodiment of a Hollywood tropical island. Hinchinbrook is one of Australia’s largest island national parks – it covers 39.3sq.km – and it is on this wonderland that 40 hikers a day get to experience true tropical Queensland conditions when they tackle the four-day, 32km Thorsborne Trail.

This world-rated multiday hike starts at Nina Bay in the north of the island, with walkers winding their way south to trail’s end at George Point. Over the course of the four days of moderate to challenging walking, following a rugged, rough track, you will move through everything from mountainous areas and long, deserted beaches, to eucalypt forest and lush tropical rainforest, with a number of pristine waterfalls along the way.

The trailhead is reached via a 40-minute boat trip from the coastal town of Cardwell, crossing the narrow Hinchinbrook Channel that separates island from the mainland. During this journey you will see an abundance of mangrove. This plant thrives here; the channel is claimed to be one of the largest mangrove habitats in the tropical north. Marine animals, such as dugongs and green sea turtles, are often seen here, with saltwater crocs also present.

Walkers can expect tropical forests, golden, sandy beaches, rocky headlands and bubbling creeks. The track itself is not graded and can be quite rough in parts so a good sense of balance, some multiday trek experience, and decent trekking fitness are essentials for optimum enjoyment. The depth of the waterways will depend on the season; a big Wet Season dump of rain can cause creeks to rise dramatically, with the potential of leaving you stranded for a day or more, unable to cross. It doesn’t hurt to allow for an extra day just in case, especially if walking the Thorsborne out of season.

As well as the main track, there are plenty of side-tracks, with the one-hour-return Nina Peak walk worth the effort; you will nab great views of the island’s highest mountain – 1121m Mt Bowen – from this viewpoint.

The Thorsborne has seven campsites, with six of these near beaches. The standout is the campsite at Mulligan Falls, toward the track’s southern section, where you camp under the rainforest canopy right near the waterfall.

Peak walking time is April to September, owing to cooler conditions. You must also be self-sufficient, carrying all food/supplies/equipment, and even though there are creeks on the island, they can run dry, so take a minimum of 4L of water per person as a backup. Also pack water purification tablets (or a filter). It’s a great trek and, at four to five days, makes for brilliant hiking bang for your bucks in terms of time and scenic rewards.

Paddle the Ngaro Sea Trail

Named after the traditional owners, the Ngaro Sea Trail is a five-day sea kayak journey that sees you paddle between Whitsunday, South Molle and Hook islands, and sample each of these island’s many walking tracks.

The beauty of the Ngaro Sea Trail is it can be as big or as small an adventure as you want it to be. Be conscious of your skill level when it comes to planning your journey as, even though the waters surrounding these islands can seem benign, the weather can change quickly. Being fit and prepared for all circumstances when it comes to weather – and being confident in your self-recovery technique, expedition skills and open water skill set – ensures a fantastic five days of paddling and camping in some of the best sites in Oz. If you’re not sure you’d be comfortable tackling the journey on your own, the alternative is to sign on to a guided paddle adventure. In some ways, this is the best option for the Ngaro Sea Trail as you’ll be both well looked after (read: safe) and also get more insight into the route’s culture and history.

Picturesque Shute Harbour, on the north-eastern beachside border of Conway National Park, is your starting point. From here, your first night’s destination will depend on fitness levels but more heavily on the weather. The nearest island campsite is South Molle Island’s Paddle Bay – a great first-day option (only 8km) if the easterly winds are blowing. If it’s calmer, then either Henning Island, directly east of Shute Harbour, or Cid Island, to the northeast, are good options for the first paddle, with Henning Island around 19km from Shute Harbour.

Once you leave Henning Island head north and try to reach Sawmill Beach in the early afternoon before tackling the walking track up to Whitsunday Peak, a lofty 435m above the water. If it is a clear day, you’ll cop some amazing views out and across South Molle Island and back to where you started from on the mainland. The campsite near here is just around the bend, at Dugong Beach.

From here, you have two options for the next day. If it’s calm, we’d recommend sticking close to Whitsunday Island and paddling north, with the aim of reaching the Ngaro Cultural Site at the head of Hook Island’s Nara Inlet.

From Nara Inlet, the campsite of Curlew Beach (which you would have paddled past) is just a small paddle back out of the inlet and sets you up for either a return trip across Whitsunday Passage to the mainland or a continuation around the eastern coastline of Whitsunday Island, via Hook Passage, the narrow waterway that separates Hook Island from the tip of its larger southern sibling.

The paddle down Whitsunday Island’s eastern side can take from two to four days, depending on weather, but there are myriad campsites along that coast. So, if you have the time, take it; once you’re back on the island’s southern end, civilisation is only a day’s paddle away and, after a week in a kayaker’s paradise, you won’t want to rush it. 

Snorkel the Great Barrier Reef

It may sound pretty obvious, but the Great Barrier Reef has to rank as one of Australia’s best snorkelling locations. Consisting of more than 3000 individual reefs and 900 islands – all set in tropical waters that drop no lower than 21°C during the coldest months of the year – the reef is a snorkeler’s dream and ranks high on most adventure bucket lists.

Running almost the entire length of the state, from Cape York down through to Bundaberg, the reef is the largest living thing on Earth, spanning an impressive 2300km along the coastline. It can be divided into three main types of reef – fringing, platform, and ribbon – each with their own unique coral structures and diving depths, and each suited to different skill levels.

Fringing reefs are generally the most common seen by snorkelers and are found attached to the mainland, or to the continental islands dotted through the marine park. They are easily accessible and to see them you need only find a beach, chuck on your gear, and hit the water. Because they grow closer to shore, they are often not very deep, and you are more likely to see the more brightly coloured soft corals and anemones, which are displayed in most aquariums and fish tanks.

Platform reefs (also known as patch reefs) are scattered in the calm, shallow waters between the mainland and edge of the continental shelf. They are usually round or oval patches and often tend to be broken up, and you’ll need a boat to reach one. Many ports along the coast offer day trips to these systems where you can snorkel directly off the boat, and most will even provide the snorkelling gear. They’re in a little deeper water so you’ll find more of the hard coral structures and bigger marine life like turtles, rays and even reef sharks, though some might find swimming against the offshore currents a little harder.

Ribbon reefs, while stunning, are harder to get to. They line the continental shelf and to get there you’ll not only need a boat, but one you can overnight on, as they’re located a minimum 65km offshore. These massive structures snake along the continental shelf and form “walls’ of coral that in some places can be over 20m tall. They form their own bomboras against incoming ocean currents and the waves and constant pull from the currents can be a little hard going – but the marine life here is as stunning as the coral with many of the larger species of reef fish and sharks living among coral as big as a VW Beetle.

Snorkelling is a great outdoor activity, and one suited to all ages, with the Great Barrier Reef undoubtedly one of the best places for it. Just remember to always snorkel with a buddy, apply loads of sunscreen, and don’t touch or handle anything below the surface. – Jess Teideman

Ride Atherton Mountain Bike Park

Tropical North Queensland might seem like an unlikely mountain bike hotspot – after all, it can be very hot and humid during part of the year – but Cairns and the surrounding region are, in fact, rated as one of Australia’s best MTB destinations. 

A constantly growing trail network and the 2017 MTB World Championships all turned rider focus toward this tropical north Queensland hotspot. Of course, it is not just Cairns riders make the long journey north for; the tablelands town of Atherton, perhaps one of the most underrated gems in Australian mountain biking, is another reason.

Atherton is about an hour away from Cairns, inland up on the tablelands at a lofty 800 metres above sea level. Atherton itself has none of the glitz of Cairns – its population is around 7000 – but that quiet exterior hides the fact that this town has one of Australia’s most sensational trail networks; the Atherton Mountain Bike Park.

Atherton meets all the ‘successful mountain bike town’ criteria: a great climate, awesome terrain, and the chance to ride to the trail network directly from town. Indeed, the trailhead (with change rooms and bike wash facilities) is right on the main street, with the link trail out to the network, for incredibly easy trail access/return.

A mix of trail builders, including two of Australia’s most reputable trailsmiths – World Trail and Dirt Art – have contributed to Atherton’s 55km-plus trail network, which sprawls over Baldy Mountain Forest Reserve and Herberton Range State Forest. Most of the riding is flow trail, best suited to cross-country or trail bikes. There’s nothing too technical, although the ease with which you garner speed should be enough to keep you focused. 

You will find the easier trails in the lowlands, while the intermediate trails cloverleaf off, taking you out into the hills. It’s a smart layout that’s ideal for groups of mixed abilities; in short, everyone has an awesome time riding, regardless of mismatched skill levels. The official trail maps are numbered; highlights include the bobsled descent of Trail 9 and the epic Trail 12, which loops off onto a life-changing descent and a scenic, gradual climb that takes you to the park’s highest point. For shorter loops, climb up to The Roundabout, and link up Trails 6 and 7.

Atherton has enough riding on tap to keep you busy for at least three days – and then there’s the nearby Davies Creek trail network too. This all adds up to a potential week of epic riding, followed by the chance to recount your thrills and spills at one of Atherton’s excellent pubs each evening. Yeah, we know, it sounds bloody brilliant!

For keen mountain bikers, the Cairns region is an absolute must. With more than 700km of trails (plus whispers of a multi-day trail being developed, linking Port Douglas and Cairns), if you don’t allow at least a week up here, you’ll be doing this region – and yourself – a huge disservice. 

More information

Hiking the Thorsborne Trail: See Queensland Department of Environment and Science for info on this hike and Hinchinbrook Island.

Diving the Great Barrier Reef: See Tourism Tropical North Queensland for all GBR info. 

Mountain biking Atherton and Cairns: See Atherton Tablelands Trails and Ride Cairns for all info on knobby-tyre adventures in Tropical North Queensland.

The Ngaro Sea Trail: See Queensland Department of Environment and Science for info on this unique marine adventure.

See Tourism Queensland for all things Sunshine State.

The post Queensland adventures: Four of the best appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The Arkaba Walk

This guided four-day trek packs in a number of highlights (both scenic and scientific) along with luxurious bush campsites. It really is great bang for your bucks and offers hikers the perfect way to experience what the Wilpena Pound/Arkaba Conservancy has to offer.

The Arkaba Walk begins and ends at the restored Arkaba Homestead and takes you southwest through Wilpena Pound (an awesome destination in its own right; there is fantastic vehicle-based camping here, as well as numerous day walks) into the 24,000 hectares that comprises the Arkaba Conservancy. 

During the walk you will follow parts of South Oz’s famous Heysen Trail, a globally renowned walking route, and traverse numerous terrain types, including tree-shaded creek beds, rocky valleys and peaks and grassy forests (dotted with Cyprus pine and other native trees). Each day pans out at around 14km of walking on undulating terrain so you’re never too tired and there’s plenty of time to admire your surrounds. Topping it all off is the fantastic campsite that awaits you each night; three-course meals, wine and beer, a campfire and your own luxury swag to sleep (these are covered by a roof in case it does rain) make for the perfect way to end a day in one of Australia’s most spectacular walking regions.

Mixed in with all this great walking is the chance to see how the brains trust behind Arkaba Conservancy has worked to re-introduce a number of native plants and animals (feral animals, such as foxes, goats, etc., have been near-totally cleared out). Dotted around the route are plenty of historical sites as well, including the Old Hills Homestead, just inside Wilpena Pound. 

The end of each day will have you thinking it can’t get any better but we reckon the highlight is on the last morning: laying in your swag watching the sunrise light up the majestic Red Range that towers over the same-named campsite is simply brilliant and the perfect way to start the final day of walking. On this day, you follow a number of creeks and gorges before moving back into open rolling country and then over the last hills of the walk. From these last lofty viewpoints, you can see down to the finish point at Arkaba Homestead, with all of its included luxuries (think celebratory cold beer, another sumptuous three-course meal, and an even better brekky the following day) just waiting for you. 

Mountain biking Adelaide

Adelaide is home of the Tour Down Under and has a well-earned reputation as a premium road cycling destination. But, that doesn’t mean the wide-tyre brigade misses out when visiting the South Oz capital; Adelaide would have to rank as one of – if not the – most mountain-bike friendly city in Australia.

With beaches on one side and the Mt Lofty Ranges on the other, Adelaide is the dream location, with the chance to razz a number of trails early in the day before heading to the beach for a dip. And there are enough trails here to repeat that process for as long as you like, too. 

The other bonus of bringing your MTB to Adelaide is the state government’s massive support of the sport, with a master plan based around the Mt Lofty Ranges to include more than 200km of MTB trails, as well as a proposal to hopefully host the World Championships. This may sound amazing but it is just the most recent example of Adelaide’s long support of mountain biking. In fact, Eagle Mountain Bike Park, on the edge of the city, is claimed to be Australia’s oldest MTB park. This park’s mix of challenging riding is just a taster for what else is around, though, with plenty of trails for all riding abilities dotted around the city – and easily accessed.

One example of this is the trails in Belair National Park, easily accessed via a short train ride from the city, which you can then link to both Craigburn Farm’s renowned singletrack, as well as the trails in Sturt Gorge Recreation Park. And don’t forget Cleland Conservation Park, either; guided MTB tours here are brilliant. For the ultimate city view, though, we’d recommend adding in the Shepherds Hill Recreation Reserve trails, with brilliant views from up high that take in both the city and its beaches. 

Finally – and you’ll need around three hours of driving from the city to reach it – there is the MTB Mecca of Melrose. This town, north of Adelaide and situated at the border of the southern Flinders Ranges, has its own MTB festival each year (the Melrose Fat Tyre Festival – yep, a cool name), and offers more than 100km of simply brilliant trails that will take you through some amazing South Oz outback country.

Diving with great white sharks

South Australia’s Port Lincoln is famous for a number of sizeable ‘locals’, including Olympic gold medal winning weightlifter, tuna fisherman Dean Lucan, and – speaking of fish – as being one of the best locations to view the formidable great white shark in its natural habitat; thankfully, from inside a cage. The cool water, a large population of sea lions (and plenty of fish, in general) makes for ideal conditions for these impressive apex predators.

Ironically, cage diving came about through a near-fatal shark attack on one of Australia’s (and the world’s) highly regarded shark experts – Rodney Fox, in 1963. It was this brush with death that led Fox to want to know more about these ‘perfect killing machines’ and led to him designing a protective cage for divers so he could get closer to the sharks and try and understand their behaviour. Fox’s cage diving led to documentaries (by Ron and Val Taylor) and a brush with Hollywood (footage for JAWS was filmed in this area). 

Today, keen (or brave?) divers can immerse themselves safely in the great white’s world while also (in the case of Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions, one of a number of cage diving companies) contributing to continued shark research. Surface cage diving is the most popular (available to ages 8 and above) with a number of excellent operators offering tours ranging from highly popular one-day experiences (Calypso Star Charters runs an excellent one based in Neptune Islands Marine Park), through to multi-day on-boat tours. Adventure Bay Charters also runs a unique “Aqua Sub”, a fully submersible glass viewing area that allows awesome views.

South Australia’s Port Lincoln is famous for a number of sizeable ‘locals’, including Olympic gold medal winning weightlifter, tuna fisherman Dean Lucan, and – speaking of fish – as being one of the best locations to view the formidable great white shark in its natural habitat; thankfully, from inside a cage. The cool water, a large population of sea lions (and plenty of fish, in general) makes for ideal conditions for these impressive apex predators.

Ironically, cage diving came about through a near-fatal shark attack on one of Australia’s (and the world’s) highly regarded shark experts – Rodney Fox, in 1963. It was this brush with death that led Fox to want to know more about these ‘perfect killing machines’ and led to him designing a protective cage for divers so he could get closer to the sharks and try and understand their behaviour. Fox’s cage diving led to documentaries (by Ron and Val Taylor) and a brush with Hollywood (footage for JAWS was filmed in this area). 

Today, keen (brave?) divers can immerse themselves safely in the great white’s world while also (in the case of Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions, one of a number of cage diving companies) contributing to continued shark research. Surface cage diving is the most popular (available to ages 8 and above) with a number of excellent operators offering tours ranging from highly popular one-day experiences (Calypso Star Charters runs an excellent one based in Neptune Islands Marine Park), through to multi-day on-boat tours. Adventure Bay Charters also runs a unique “Aqua Sub”, a fully submersible glass viewing area that allows awesome views.

For an even deeper (excuse the pun) experience, Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions and Adventure Bay Charters run ocean floor shark cage tours, with the cage set up 18-20 metres below the surface off the Neptune Islands. Here, not only do you have the chance to see these majestic mighty creatures up close, but you may also see stingrays, a variety of reef fish and even the always-chilled-out giant blue grouper. For this experience, though, you will need a PADI Open Water (OW) or equivalent certification. The ultimate diving adventure? It’d have to be pretty close.

Exploring Googs Track

South Australia’s Googs Track is situated between Lone Oak Station (30km north of Ceduna) and the Trans Australian Railway and is a handy shortcut for those travelling from Australia’s south coast to the Red Centre. Along its 154km length, Googs Track includes more than 300 sand dunes, leading many to liken a trip along this isolated route through Yumbarra Conservation Park and Yellabinna Regional Reserve to a mini-Simpson Desert adventure.

Construction of the track started in the northern end in 1955 and it stopped near Mount Finke. Some years later, in 1973, a local farmer by the name of John (Goog) Denton pushed a track from his Lone Oak Station boundary in the south to join up with the northern track, completing what is now known as Googs Track in 1976.

The drive along Googs Track is over relatively firm sand and the dunes are not particularly high, but due to the isolated nature of the area it is advised that travellers have at least some sand driving experience. A capable 4WD is required for this route and tyre pressures will need to be lowered for the sandy sections. Travellers should also carry all the fuel, food and water required for their intended stay and have appropriate communications equipment (satphone, PLB etc.).

Some highlights along the route include Googs Lake (a top spot to camp) and Mount Finke (climb it for a great view of the surrounding scrub country). You’ll also find well-marked memorials to John (Goog) Denton and his son Dinger, who helped his dad with construction of the track.

Once you reach the Trans Australian Railway at the northern end of the track, it’s a 40km drive east to the ghost town of Tarcoola. Don’t expect a cold beer at the Wilgena Hotel; it shut its doors back in 1999, and the last resident of the town pulled up stumps a couple of years ago. From Tarcoola it’s another 120km or so to Glendambo on the Stuart Highway. Make sure you check out the magnificent Lake Gairdner along the way; it’s the fourth largest salt lake in Australia. – Dean Mellor

More information

See the Adelaide Mountain Bike Club for all things MTB in the city.

Escape Goat Adventures is the go-to for guided MTB adventures.

For Yumbarra Conservation Park camping permits (on Googs Track) see NPWS South Australia.

See Arkaba Walk for more info on this guided hiking adventure.

For shark cage diving and all other things South Oz adventure, see South Australian Tourism Commission.

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The Jatbula Trail

If the Larapinta Trail is the perfect NT Red Centre experience, then the 62km Jatbula Trail more than qualifies as its Top End equivalent; the walk is moderate in level but takes you through some of the most vibrant and engaging terrain in this country. It can be walked independently (you need to book well ahead for park camping/passes) or you can jump on board a guided adventure (World Expeditions offers a six-day trek). The Jatbula is located in Nitmiluk National Park and heads north (it is a one-way walk) from Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) itself. If you have the time, it’s worth spending a few days exploring this gorge system – it is amazing.  

The route takes walkers on a tropical adventure along the western edges of the Arnhem Land Escarpment, through savannah grasslands, rocky quartzite cliffs, creek-crossings, and exploring monsoon forests, with each day ending at the perfect campsite: beside a waterfall. This is the land of the Jawoyn, and you’ll get the chance to spot brilliant rock art in a number of caves and rocky overhangs and outcrops as you trek an average of 10km each day (the longest stretch is 16km on Day 3, from 17 Mile Falls to Sandy Camp Pool) between campsites.

The first few days see walkers traverse the brilliant “stone country” before entering some pockets of ubiquitous monsoonal rainforest. After a few days you’ll follow a gentler track beside the pretty Edith River to Sandy Camp Pool, where you’ll camp for the night, and then through paperbark forests and past more waterholes on to Sweetwater Pool. 

The hike is brilliant and can be done at a leisurely pace. Having said that, it’s well worth starting early each morning so you can take full advantage of the campsites’ locations right next to waterholes; nothing beats a cooling swim after a day’s walk. The trekking season is July to September in the tropical north, so as well as warm days and cool-ish nights, you should see plenty of stars in the clear Top End skies.

In addition to the overall walking experience, the fantastic campsites and the rich indigenous history, the Jatbula’s start- and endpoints are ideal if you’d like to spend more time here doing day walks through Nitmiluk National Park or canoeing up the gorge or down Katherine River. Or, you can simply keep that waterfall spirit alive and spend a few days lolling about at Leliyn (Edith Falls), the endpoint of your tropical trekking adventure. The campground here is awesome – as is the swimming!

Kakadu National Park – North

Ignore the grumblings of “Kakadu, Kaka-don’t”; this globally famous 20,000-square-kilometre national park can fill half a year’s worth of adventures. The park is best visited in the Dry Season (May to October) when river levels are low and most parts of the park are accessible. Plus, it is cooler and less humid. You’ll need plenty of time to do this huge world wonder some kind of justice, with the lesser-known areas of the park just as worth exploring as the more popular. In fact, there’s so much to do here that we’ve split our Kakadu guide into two parts: north and south. 

Kick off your northern Kakadu adventure with a leisurely 1.5-hour run south from Darwin via the Arnhem Highway before you reach the park entrance. The temptation here is to punch through to the park’s main tourist hub of Jabiru, but to do so means you’ll miss one of Kakadu’s less visited highlights: the Waldak Irrmbal (West Alligator Head) track heads north to Pococks Beach, located on the park’s northern coastline, abutting Van Diemen Gulf. This drive is 4WD-only (if you don’t own a 4WD you can hire one in Darwin – it’ll be well worth it as it will open up far more of the national park for exploration) and is a cracker. If you have a spare day it’s worth camping somewhere along this route; Two Mile Hole and Four Mile Hole are great fishing and camping spots, with Two Mile Hole (12km in from the turn-off) allowing some access to the Wildman River, plus a billabong just before the river. Be aware, though, that this is saltwater crocodile country; this writer has seen a sizeable salty sunning itself in the long grass beside the billabong at Two Mile, only spotted when its head moved as we walked toward the billabong’s banks.

Returning to the main Waldak Irrmbal track and continuing north for a further 50km is challenging in parts but a great experience; the near-flat Manassi Floodplain that dominates this part of the park is occasionally interrupted by stands of savannah forest, which increase in density (and are joined by huge palms closer to the coastline) as you near Waldak Irrmbal and Pococks Beach itself.  The facilities at Waldak Irrmbal are relatively basic but both Jungle Camp and Pococks Beach campsite offer a far more remote camping experience than you’ll find at one of Kakadu’s more easily accessed (and thus popular) campsites. You can explore Pococks Beach (be croc-aware; saltwater crocs often bask on the beach here) by foot, and it’s also worth exploring east of the campsites as well; the rocky outcrops and mangroves near the mouth of the West Alligator River are full of things to check out. Also keep an eye out for the native orange-footed scrub fowl – or easier – its nest; this ground dwelling bird builds what is more appropriately dubbed a huge mound (they can be up to 4.5m tall and 9m in diameter). Just be prepared for some noise during the night if your camp is too close to said nest…

After returning along the same track you can rejoin the Arnhem Highway. Rather than heading all the way to Jabiru, though, look for a signposted 4X4-only track that leads south. This is a great ‘shortcut’ that, again, takes you away from the heaving dry season crowds on the bitumen roads and passes by some beautiful waterholes – Bucket, Alligator and Red Lily billabongs – before you ford the southern ‘tail’ of the Alligator River and join Old Jim Jim Road, another 4X4-only route.

Eventually, and a bit sadly, you will have to rejoin the bitumen at the Kakadu Highway, the park’s other main thoroughfare. We’d highly recommend camping at Yellow Water (located slightly north just after you rejoin the Kakadu Highway) and partaking in the next morning’s sunrise cruise on this huge waterhole; birdlife, saltwater crocs and turtles can all be spotted here. After this amazing wildlife experience, continue north along the Kakadu Highway for a Top End experience of a different kind: Nourlangie contains some brilliant rock art and some short walks that take you to all the main sites. Next stop is Jabiru for the excellent cultural centre before (hopefully) timing your drive right and reaching Ubirr – another globally lauded rock-art site – where, after perusing the eons-old artwork, you walk to a vantage point that looks over the park’s northern floodplains for sunset. It’s brilliant.

Kakadu National Park – South

A lovely southern adventure in this famous national park begins with a bitumen run down the Stuart Highway from Darwin to Pine Creek, and then turning left and following the Kakadu Highway into the park itself. Just inside the southern border is Goymarr Tourist Park, with a great campground and all facilities. Tracking north from here you soon reach the turn-off to one of Kakadu’s most famous waterfalls – Gunlom. Following this dirt road will bring you to the falls (made famous in the original ‘Crocodile Dundee’). It’s easy to while away a day here swimming in the lower pool. But, for the best Gunlom experience, be sure to tackle the short but quite steep walking track that takes you up to the top of the falls and the rockpools that feed it from above. These are perfect swimming holes, with the final pool before the drop offering spectacular views over the park’s west and south. You can camp at Gunlom, but for a truly remote Top End camping experience in this busy park, we’d suggest driving further south-east to Jarrangbarnmi Campground (Koolpin Gorge). This campsite requires a permit (be sure to book well ahead) but it’s worth it; it is simply sublime. The campsites are nestled beside Koolpin Creek and short walks take you to remote plunge pools and waterfalls. 

Leaving this heaven-on-earth behind the next day, backtrack to the Kakadu Highway and continue north to the turn-off to the 4X4-only track to Maguk (Barramundi Gorge). This is yet another beautiful location; a one-kilometre level walk from camp sees you reach one of Kakadu NP’s most beautiful plunge pools, with the waterfall at its eastern end (easily reached by swimming). There’s a separate walking track that takes you directly to the top of the waterfall itself for a dip in the plunge pools above the falls. From Maguk, it’s a short return to the highway and then a further drive north to the Graveside Gorge turn-off. This (very) remote campsite needs to be booked ahead and the drive in will take around three hours along the 44km of rocky, tricky terrain. It’s worth it of course if you wish to see another spectacular part of the park. Further north from here – and, again, back on the Kakadu Highway for access – is Jim Jim Falls, one of Kakadu’s most famous destinations.

The drive in here is 4X4-only and is slow-going until you reach Garamarr campground. This campground is sizeable (it can handle 200 people) and has excellent facilities. From here, the access track to Jim Jim Falls (and its beautiful plunge pool) continues (check with Parks and Wildlife as to whether the track is open, first), and you can also turn right to tackle the extra 10km to pretty Twin Falls too (there’s a water crossing here – a snorkel is advised for your vehicle) Twin Falls Gorge is accessed via a boat shuttle but as with everything in this park, it’s worth the time and effort. For both Jim Jim and Twin Falls you can also ascend to the plateau above them, but both are steep and challenging walks (four hours for Twin Falls; six hours for Jim Jim). The many walks in this area take you to some fantastic locations and it makes a fitting final night in Kakadu National Park. 

Equally fitting is the last day’s journey out of the park. Rather than taking the bitumen Kakadu and Arnhem highways, we’d recommend backtracking south slightly from Jim Jim Falls and taking the 4X4-only Old Jim Jim Road that tracks west through some fantastic floodplains and waterways. A great morning tea/lunch spot is Giyamungkurr (Black Jungle Springs) camping area. From here it’s a straightforward run northwest to the Arnhem Highway and, after a few days in what seems like a totally removed, wild and untamed land, a return to ‘civilisation’.

The Larapinta Trail

The mighty Larapinta – all 223km of it – takes walkers through a microcosm of the Northern Territory’s Red Centre landscape of rich-red rocky terrain, deep gorges with cool waterholes beneath, and ethereal ghost gums. 

The Larapinta is nothing if not a versatile walk; there are a number of ways you can “do” the trek, including the most challenging – walking it point-to-point 223km independently over 10-14 days (with one or two food drops along the way), or joining a guided group (still carrying all your food and gear). For those with less time, you can sample different section of the track on a seven-day sojourn, via adventure travel company World Expeditions. Or, if you’re less experienced (or, again, have minimal time) World Ex also runs a three-day luxury Larapinta ‘experience’. This takes you out on separate day walks on some of the track’s best sections before returning you to your comfortable camp accommodation (and a campfire meal, chef-cooked) at the end of each day. In terms of seasons, we’d recommend the cooler months of April to October. 

Perhaps surprisingly, in lieu of its lofty reputation, the Larapinta Trail is far from crowded. This, of course, has a lot to do with its sheer size; not many people have that two weeks spare in which to complete the full 223km. A popular alternative is for walkers to tackle shorter sections (three to four days, for example) over a few years to complete the track. 

You can walk the Larapinta in either direction: east to west, starting from Alice Springs’ historic Telegraph Station and finishing with a sunrise on top of Mt Sonder (and a pre-booked bus back to town); or west to east, starting at Mt Sonder, and making your way back into town. Every day on the track brings new and memorable highlights, whether swimming beautiful Ormiston Gorge, or taking in the view across the rugged ridges of the West MacDonnell Ranges from Standley Chasm lookout. 

Independent walkers will need to be fit – your pack will be full of food, tent, gear, clothing, etc. – and food drops will need to be organised through local operators in Alice Springs before departure. The designated campsites all have water tanks and are, roughly, a day’s walk apart. The longest section is the 31km stretch from Hugh Gorge to Ellery Creek; it’s a long-ish but not unbearable day. 

There are numerous access points along the walk, with the track moving through popular tourist spots (usually the many gorges in the West Macs) along the way. If you opt for a guided Larapinta adventure, the logistics are taken care of. World Expeditions is the most experienced guided operator on the Larapinta Trail, with the most options (as mentioned earlier). Whichever way you choose to walk this iconic route, you will not be disappointed – but you will be amazed; it truly is a world-class walk, and one that perfectly showcases what makes the Australian outback so appealing for adventurers. 

Fact File

See NT Parks and Wildlife for all information, such as track closures, campsite bookings, etc., for Finke Gorge NP, Nitmiluk NP and West MacDonnell Ranges NP.

See Parks Australia for all information on Kakadu NP.  

World Expeditions runs guided Larapinta Trail and Jatbula Trail experiences. 

See Tourism NT for all things Northern Territory.

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The Great Ocean Walk

One of the iconic adventures of Victoria (and one of Australia’s Great Walks), the 104km Great Ocean Walk (GOW) doesn’t want for variety – or breathtaking scenery. Don’t be put off by the distance; the GOW can be experienced a number of ways, from day walks, through to overnight and longer multi-day walks, all of which will include plenty of walking time near some of this coastline’s most famous rock formations. 

Following Victoria’s beautiful west coast, from Apollo Bay to Glenample, near the 12 Apostles, the walk travels through coastal hinterland covered in dense native forest and along wide, pristine beaches, all while offering views over beautiful marine environments, as well as the chance to visit historic lighthouses, spot wildlife, and be amazed by the number of shipwrecks located offshore. 

The biggest appeal of this walk is not all of the above, however, but in those aforementioned many options available to experience it. For the less adventurous (or time-poor), day walks along various sections can be linked up (allowing you to slowly ‘tick off’ the entire walk over time, if you wish), and bookended by nights in comfortable accommodation, such as hotels, B&Bs, etc. For the more serious bushwalkers, there is the option of camping in your tent along the entire 104km of track, at designated campsites, or mixing it up with nights in a local coastal pub (for that oft-welcome shower and a celebratory meal – this is a great way to break up the full-length walk).

Walkers can also opt to go guided (RAW Travel has some great guided options) as well as independent. The entire walk can take anywhere between five and eight days and, with a finish point near the Twelve Apostles (one of Australia’s natural wonders) it will remain one of your most memorable walking experiences. 

Ride and walk the High Country

The Victorian High Country (in the state’s north-east) is chock-full of cycling and hiking adventures, ranging from short to multiple days, and for any and all ages and experience levels. 

For road cyclists, the lofty peaks in this pocket of Victoria offer some amazing climbs, with all that effort offset by the alpine landscape you ride through. Opt to tackle one of the area’s most popular climbs – the 20km ascent of Mt Buffalo – or, instead, enjoy something a little less strenuous, in the form of the Gaps Loop (starting and finishing in Bright). For families that include little’uns, Victoria’s northeast can lay claim to the largest rail trail network in the southern hemisphere, with not only the Murray to Mountains, but also the 134km Great Victorian Rail Trail and the High Country Rail Trail. These rail trails are ideal for family cycling thanks to the relatively flat terrain and the beautiful landscapes (with plenty of lunch stop locations) they take riders through.

Mountain bikers are definitely spoilt for choice here. A number of alpine resorts dotted across the high ranges offer excellent MTB trail networks for the spring/summer/autumn season, with riding ranging from cross-country through to epic downhill runs. Mt Buller Resort contains one of the southern hemisphere’s only IMBA (International Mountain Bike Association) EPIC trails – and it is a 40km doozy that every Aussie mountain biker should ride at least once in their life. Both Beechworth and Bright also offer excellent knobby-tyre adventures (with the bonus of being able to celebrate your day on the bike at some awesome craft breweries – Bright Brewery is brilliant). 

Walking in the Vic High Country offers equally sublime experiences with, again, myriad options for all ages. For the keen and experienced walkers, the three-day (37km) Falls to Hotham Alpine Crossing is an absolute belter (summer is the most popular time for this walk but any season outside winter – and weather permitting – is fine). Over the three days you will traverse mountains, alpine plains and then descend heavily forested alpine valleys to amble alongside clear mountain streams. As well as the awesome landscape, there is plenty of native wildlife to spot and, if you time it right, there will be colourful swathes of native wildflowers blooming as well.

Those with less time can still get their walking experience in, thanks to short walks at most of the alpine resorts, as well as a number that start from (or are nearby to) the region’s towns, such as Bright, Harrietville, Myrtleford and others. These walks range from 30 minutes to a couple of hours and up to half a day. They are perfect for the adventurous family, and usually lead to a great picnic area or scenic highlight. 

Whether you’re a ‘roadie’, mountain biker or bushwalker, the Victorian High Country has enough to keep you well busy for a week or more. 

Wilsons Promontory National Park

It’s a bit of a haul from Melbourne, but “the Prom” as it is affectionately known, makes those hours spent in the car well worth it once you get there – and it’s worthy of a few repeat visits at the least. There are oodles of walking tracks throughout the national park, ranging from easily accessed beach-based sojourns, through to more challenging overnight walks in both the northern and southern sections of the park. 

The East Prom Coastal Circuit is a great easy-intermediate overnighter, with only one more challenging section (Refuge Bay to Little Waterloo Cove) along its 35km, while the Northern Prom circuit and Corner Inlet loop both up the ante in difficulty. For those with younger family members in tow, there are a number of easy short and day walks as well, some of which can be linked up if you’re (they’re) keen to walk a bit longer. Add in the chance to look for marine wildlife and birdlife along these walks and you’ll be surprised how far your kids will end up walking – a win-win for all.

For those looking for a more luxurious Prom experience, Parks Victoria has the Wilderness Retreats (tented cabins) at Tidal River, the park’s main campground. These are great for couples or families – as is the Tidal River campground in general; the 484 camping and caravan sites certainly mean you won’t be alone, but you can rest easy knowing everyone is there for the same reason: to explore and enjoy one of Victoria’s premier national parks. For the ultimate Prom weekend experience however, we’d recommend staying in one of the three cottages at the Wilsons Promontory Lightstation. After a day or more of walking in the park, being able to look back over the park’s coastline (and those tracks you just walked) at the end of the day is simply brilliant. 

Victoria Fact File

See Parks Victoria for the latest national parks information (closures/openings, etc.) 

For information on the hiking and bike trails in the Victorian High Country, Ride High Country and Walk High Country are the go-to websites, with loads of rides and walks to research, maps and other info.
Check Tourism North East for general information on the region, including towns, accommodation, travel times, etc.

See Visit Victoria for all the essential info on the Great Ocean Walk and for general information on the entire state.

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A southwest Tassie hiking gem, this three- to four-day hike offers the ideal ‘week away’ for adventurers. And what a week it is; located around three hours’ drive from Hobart, you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve arrived in a different land and time. The Mt Anne Circuit packs in everything an experienced hiker could wish for: towering rocky peaks to ascend, an immense boulder field to traverse, huge alpine lakes to camp beside and the real chance you’ll cop every aspect of Tassie’s renowned wild weather – regardless of the time of year you walk here (we’d recommend spring/summer).

The first day is slightly deceiving, with a gradual (and relatively short, timewise) ascent to High Camp campsite, nestled in the shadow of Mt Eliza, looking over the immensity that is Lake Pedder way down below where the track starts. The second day ramps up the excitement; firstly, climbing up the slopes of Mt Eliza before traversing its namesake plateau. After this, you can drop your pack and tackling the side-trip up to the summit of southwest Tassie’s tallest peak, 1423m Mt Anne. It’s a scramble to the summit, with a bit of exposure along the way, but worth it; the views from here at next-level and, as well as peaks such as Mt Lot in the distance, you also get your first glimpse at what must be one of Tassie’s most spectacular campsites: Shelf Camp. Descending from the summit and then heading back to the track junction to pick up packs, it’s only another half-hour to Shelf Camp and the end of a great day up high in the mountains.

It is day three that will stand out in most trekkers’ memories; from negotiating a giant boulder field not long after leaving Shelf Camp, to then negotiating the infamous Notch (you’ll get to test your climbing skills here; it’s not as scary as it sounds) before ascending Mt Lot’s north face, and negotiating the exposed descent from Lighting Ridge to camp at Judds Charm, beside Lake Judd, you’ll be pumped the entire way. It’s only a short distance overall (not much over 4km) but it will take a full day. And yeah, you will sleep like the proverbial at Judds Charm that night.

 The last day in this incredibly wild landscape sees you cross, then descend from, Sarah Jane Plateau before traversing the long and often very muddy Anne River plains before crossing the aforementioned river and arriving at track’s end at Red Tape Creek.

For such a ‘short’ walk in terms of time, the Mt Anne delivers big-time when it comes to offering an entertaining and sometimes challenging sojourn through one of this country’s most remote and spectacular areas. 
(Note: always check Tasmania Parks & Wildlife Service for track closures and updates before attempting this walk.)

Rafting the Franklin River

Touted as the “world’s best river trip” by highly regarded Outside (US) magazine, that claim won’t be disputed by us. This writer journeyed down the Franklin in 2013 – and I still rate it as one of my all-time favourite adventures.

Picture this: Nine days on one of the world’s most exciting rafting rivers; beautiful and pristine terrain surrounding you each day on the water; simply brilliant campsites that tempt you to stay forever; and some of the wildest rapids you will ever encounter. 

The Franklin River can be paddled independently, by raft, kayak or canoe (amazingly the first descent was in a canoe), but to even think of this, you must be a highly experienced white-water paddler. The river’s many rapids are seriously unforgiving, and the terrain equally so. Plus, once you’re on the river, there’s no access points for nine days…

Smart people opt for a guided rafting trip, where they can take advantage of experienced river guides and rafts packed full of all the gear – and delicious food – they will need.

The Franklin offers so much to the paddling fanatic. It defines the term ‘epic journey’, in how the landscape – and the river – changes character along the way, and in the way the river reminds paddlers – through its sheer power – just how untamed nature can be, even in today’s constrained world.

From the benign start point on the pretty Collingwood River, through to the savagery that is the unraftable Grade-6 Churn rapids, the Franklin never disappoints. The campsites are remarkably different – some nights you sleep under an eons-old rock overhang, on others you’re under a tarp – but each campsite is nestled right next to the river, allowing you to listen to the water rushing inexorably on. It’s the ultimate lullaby. 

The Franklin trip does require reasonable fitness, with at least a modicum of paddling experience. Besides the fantastic rapids-running, you will also get the chance to explore some canyons along the way, such as the magical Lost World. And don’t forget to pack extra swimmers: at the end of each day there’s opportunities to have a dip – and, yeah, it is cold! 

Trekking in Walls of Jerusalem National Park

This amazing national park sits in Tassie’s wild and remote southwest and is the Apple Isle’s only alpine national park. “The Walls”, as it is colloquially known, offers a number of trekking options, from day-hikes, to overnighters, through to seven-day circuits that take you deep into the national park’s southern section, with the opportunity to ascend a number of peaks. 

For those with limited time, a day-walk (7-8 hours return) up toward the national parks’ campground at Wild Dog Creek, traversing dense native forest (passing an old trapper’s hut in this section) before reaching the Central Plateau and then on to the campground. From here, you ascend for another half-hour and pass through the Golden Gate to reach the beautiful Damascus Vale (the ideal lunch stop), where the park’s namesake cliffs tower over you. The descent back to the track-head is quicker, meaning you have the perfect excuse to stop off at Mole Creek Hotel for a coldie (and dinner) to celebrate.

For the super-keen hikers, a full six days in Walls of Jerusalem NP is a must. There are a few ways to do a circuit walk through here, so it’s worth consulting a map of the park or, if you’d rather, opt for a guided trek, such as the Walls of Jerusalem Circuit offered by World Expeditions. This takes away all the logistical hassles and allows you to soak up this magnificent part of Tassie over seven days. During that time, you’ll camp in some absolutely magic locations (including beside a couple of lakes), ascend a number of the mountains in the park, such as Mt Jerusalem and the West Wall Traverse, and traverse what is claimed to be one of the world’s best examples of a glacial valley (the Adelaide Valley). 

Other Walls of Jerusalem hiking highlights include the section through Damascus Vale where you are dwarfed by the West Walls, and also the chance for a side-trip (conditions permitting) up on to the Mt Ragoona Plateau, where you can score views right across southwest Tassie to Cradle Mountain. It’s a busy six days – and you will need a decent level of multiday trek fitness – but you’ll be well rewarded. Walking “The Walls” is close to a full week of wonder, that’s for sure.

More information

See World Expeditions for info on its guided nine-day Franklin River rafting trip, its six-day guided Walls of Jerusalem Circuit and five-day Mt Anne Circuit guided walk.

For national park and track closures, see Tasmania Parks & Wildlife Service for all the latest info.

The post Tasmanian adventures: Three of the best appeared first on Australian Geographic.

SYDNEYSIDERS ARE OFTEN guilty of ignoring what is one of this country’s best adventure destinations, in the form of the Blue Mountain World Heritage Area.

This wild, rugged region contains a shed-load of great walks, sublime camping and world-renowned rock-climbing – and it’s all only a bit more than an hour from Australia’s largest capital city, via the M4 motorway! Again, some areas of the national park are, at the time of writing, still closed, so check with NPWS first before heading west.

With pretty mountain villages dotted around the borders of Blue Mountains National Park, it’s super easy to make this destination the perfect – and highly repeatable – family adventure, with numerous accommodation options, ranging from campgrounds to caravan parks, motels, hotels, B&Bs and weekender cottages for rent. 

There are a number of guiding companies located in the ‘Blueys’ who can cater for any adventure request, whether it is climbing, hiking or canyoneering – and may offer itineraries suited to your skills/ages, etc. It’s bushwalking, however, that is the stand-out adventure activity in the Blueys. And you really are spoilt for choice… 

Got a week? If you have, then make sure you spend it fully immersed in this bushwalking playground. Start off with a couple of days tackling the many day walks near Katoomba, including some of the best cliff-side tracks around (some of these are still closed due to COVID-19, but not all; a number of these are suited to young children). Up the ante and head further west to Blackheath and the Grose Valley’s track network. Here, walks range from a couple of hours (the Grand Canyon Walk is brilliant), through to one of the most popular overnight treks – the Blue Gum Forest, which entails a descent into the Grose Valley, via Govetts Leap, before you encounter beautiful waterfalls and creeks, as well as lush eucalypt bushland as you follow Govetts Creek down to Acacia campground. (Check with NPWS for track openings in this part of the Blue Mountains as the situation is changing weekly.)

And don’t forget the Six Foot Track. This three-day, 44km (one way) trek starts at the historic Explorers Tree (between Katoomba and Medlow Bath, just beside the Great Western Highway) and is for the more experienced walker. This track is fantastic, with well-positioned campsites (some with toilets) and that sensation of being right out in the wilds – well away from the bustling tourist hotspots in the Blueys’ towns. 

More info: For the latest on open/closed walking tracks and areas of the national park, go to www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au
Blue Mountains accommodation and activity info, see www.visitnsw.com/destinations/blue-mountainsw

The Snowy Mountains

The ‘Snowies’ are chock-full of adventure opportunities year-round. Located around five to six hours south of Sydney (roughly two from Canberra), via the Hume, then Monaro highways. This mountainous region includes adventure towns such as Jindabyne and Cooma and the village of Thredbo. Spend a few days – or preferably a week – seeking adventure down here and it will just be a taste of the vast amount of fun on offer, making the perfect excuse for a return trip. 

From October to May, the Snowy Mountains region is adventure central; activities include mountain biking, road cycling, hiking, fly-fishing, paddling, swimming, 4WD touring, and brilliant camping. If you don’t want to camp, there is excellent town-based accommodation at Thredbo, Jindabyne and Cooma, ranging from swish hotels to fantastic caravan parks.

The walk to the summit of Mt Kosciuszko is a must. From the top of the chairlift begins a medium-difficulty climb to mainland Australia’s highest peak. The three- to four-hour round trip covers spectacular alpine terrain and the view from the top lookout, across the roof of Australia, is unforgettable. Guided walks are available from Thredbo and hikes to Charlotte Pass and Blue Lake are worth checking out as well.

Bike tracks around Thredbo, Jindabyne and now Cooma are suitable for everyone from beginners to pros and the trail networks here have grown significantly over the last few years (especially in Cooma and Jindabyne), so there’s plenty to keep the MTBer busy. Thredbo’s trail network is awesome; whether you’re a beginner or hardcore downhiller, the resort’s MTB trail network – one of Australia’s best – is ever-expanding, with the extension of the Thredbo Valley Trail (through Kosciuszko NP) the latest example. Add in the long, winding sealed roads that link a number of smaller alpine towns together for road-based cyclists, and the Snowies will satisfy even the most discerning two-wheeled tourist.

For those interested in paddling one of the country’s iconic rivers, Alpine River Adventures offers five- or seven-day journeys along sections of the Snowy River. It also runs day-trips – the ideal way for beginners or those with less time in the region to still get out on this famous waterway. 

More info: www.visitnsw.com/destinations/snowy-mountains  or www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/kosciuszko-national-park

Kangaroo Valley and surrounds

The tiny town of Kangaroo Valley, midway between Moss Vale, in the NSW Southern Highlands, and the Shoalhaven Coast town of Nowra is around two hours’ drive southwest of Sydney, via the Hume Highway, then the Old Hume Highway and on to State Route 79. The township (like others in the Shoalhaven region) was severely damaged by bushfires this summer but it is, like all strong regional communities, bouncing back. Accommodation ranges from excellent caravan park/campgrounds, to boutique B&Bs.

If you don’t mind dipping a paddle, launch your canoe onto Lake Yarrunga at Tallowa Dam, or paddle down the Kangaroo River (you can hire canoes in town, or bring your own), leaving from under historic Hampden Bridge (the country’s oldest suspension bridge) and paddling six kilometres downriver (keeping an eye out for birdlife and platypus on the way). For day-paddlers, you will finish at the pretty river-side Bendeela picnic area where you can either be picked up (after pre-arranging a shuttle vehicle) or, if you’ve packed your camping gear, you can doss down here in the campground for the night, beside the river. For those who don’t have their own watercraft, Valley Outdoors offers bespoke canoe trips of any length down the Kangaroo and Shoalhaven rivers and hires out canoes as well.

For bushwalkers, take to the hills, meander along the river or venture through the forests via the numerous walking tracks. There are different kinds of walks to suit every level of fitness/age. Morton National Park is right near the town (Kangaroo Valley sits on its northeastern border) and you can access a number of day-walks from here as well, such as the excellent trek up Pigeon House Mountain (inland from Nowra; the track-head is just under two hours’ drive from Kangaroo Valley). 

Whether you’re a mountain biker or road cyclist (or riding with your kids) there are a number of MTB tracks within both Morton NP and around the village as well., plus some great road-riding routes, such as the ride from Kangaroo Valley to the popular tourist village of Berry (if you do nothing else here, grab a hot donut from The Famous Berry Donut Van – it’ll fire you up for the return back over the hills to Kangaroo Valley). There are also some nice dirt roads for mellow cruising as well. A longer – but graded easy/medium – ride is Upper Kangaroo River Road (24.4km return). Allow between half and a full day.

More info: For accommodation and all other activities in the town and surrounding region, see here.

Sapphire Coast

This far southern section of the New South Wales coast has one of the highest densities of national parks in the country, with parks comprising 71 per cent of total land area.

Now is the time to plan for a week (or two!) down there in spring/summer. It’s a grand trip just to get there; idling your way down the beautiful NSW south coast on the Princes Highway, passing through the equally brilliant Shoalhaven and Eurobodalla coast regions.

The Sapphire Coast border is reached after a five-hour drive from Sydney, at the village of Cobargo in the north, and the region extends south to Wonboyn (this lake-side fishing village is a touch over six hours from the centre of Melbourne) and, in between, there is a multitude of family-friendly adventures. All the towns in this region offer accommodation ranging from caravan park/campgrounds and motels, to hotels and boutique B&Bs. For those with less time, you can fly direct from Sydney or Melbourne (via Regional Express) to Merimbula, the main tourist hub of the Sapphire Coast.

The beachside town of Tathra, in the northern section (15 minutes’ drive from Merimbula), is famous not only for its beaches and surfing but also, increasingly, for two-wheeled activity. Behind the town (easily within riding distance on the fantastic cycle path), the dense native forests hide a highly-regarded 52km mountain bike trail network (built entirely by the local community) that caters for all skills and age levels. Better still, you can ride from. 

Further south, Merimbula and Pambula provide surfing and fishing opportunities, as well as the chance to spot migrating whales. As well, these two towns offer excellent caravan parks to base yourself within (there are more caravan parks at Eden and Boydtown, too). Keen paddlers can kayak from Merimbula to Eden (or, for a shorter paddle, to Pambula Beach) and make sure you keep an eye out for marine life – this region has plenty. Speaking of which…

Eden, the globally famous “Killer Whale town” (thanks to its whaling history, and the unique relationship that formed between whalers and a pod of orca back in the whaling era), looks out over Twofold Bay. There’s great fishing and plenty of scuba diving/snorkelling here, plus more whale watching (Twofold Bay is one of the only locations where migrating whales feed on their journey along the Australian coast), and sea kayaking. For sea kayaking, you can explore the various bays and beaches around Twofold Bay itself, or venture further south along this rugged and remote coastline to the Nadgee Nature Reserve.  

For bushwalkers, the two- to three-day Light to Light Walk, in Beowa National Park (formerly Ben Boyd NP), beckons. Just to the west lies the massive South East Forests NP, with 4WD touring opportunities, canoeing and riverside campsites, and a number of state forests, with the same activities available.

Wonboyn is the southern bookend of the Sapphire Coast, and abutts Nadgee Nature Reserve – an outdoors fanatic’s dream, with walking tracks scattered throughout and some great wilderness camping to be had. For the serious bushwalker, the Nadgee Wilderness Walk – a four-day adventure – starts here and continues around the coastline into Victoria, finishing at the pretty tourist village of Mallacoota (a township decimated by the 2019/20 fires; make sure you spend a day or two here – the fishing is awesome as is the paddling in the lake itself). It’s a belter of a walk!

More info: See www.sapphirecoast.com.au and www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au

The post NSW adventures: Four of the best appeared first on Australian Geographic.

I am ensconced in a sled, relatively warm and with a massive grin on my face as myself and my co-pilot (standing behind me on the rear of the sled, taking his turn as driver) fly across a white landscape behind a team of six sled-dogs. We are moving through a remote valley about an hour’s drive west of Alberta’s adventure capital of Jasper. 

It is February, and for this Australian having just come from a balmy Sydney summer, it is bloody cold (the temp hovers around 0 to 2 degrees Celsius). Even the chill of this winter’s day, though, can’t stop me smiling as I soak up the surrounding landscape, filled with ravines, frozen and semi-frozen creeks, and towering mountains in the distance. 

I am also marvelling at how much sheer speed and grunt a team of six relatively diminutive Alaskan huskies can muster, whether ascending a rise, or punching down the other side. It’s nearing the end of a frantic five days on the ground in Jasper, exploring the many winter adventure activities it offers, and I can’t really see how it could have got any better. This morning’s mad charge through a relatively untouched land is proving me wrong, again. And I have no problem with that…

A quick adjustment
Jasper is well known for its excellent skiing during winter, but what is less well known is just how much richer this 5,500-strong mountain town is in terms of other adventure options for those who may want to either mix it up with their skiing or (like this writer) simply don’t ski. 

Reaching Jasper takes a little bit of logistical planning, mostly centred around whether to jump aboard the Via Rail overnight sleeper train from Vancouver (with the chance to ogle the Rocky Mountains as you pass through) or my eventual choice of flying into Edmonton and linking a four-hour bus ride to Jasper. 

It was while waiting for the bus that I copped my first taste of just how chilly Alberta can be. The week I was there I struck ‘perfect’ weather – a mix of sunny days at around 0 to 2 degrees Celsius, to night-time temps of -17 degrees Celsius. When I made a joking remark to the bus driver about it being a wee bit nippy, he just grinned and mentioned the -42-degree Celsius nights they’d experienced in January – I stopped even thinking to complain about being ‘a little cold’. And, truth be told, once in the winter sun – and appropriately rugged up – it was super nice.

Even nicer were my digs; the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge (located inside the immense 10,878 square-kilometre Jasper National Park) is just east of town and is the ideal adventure basecamp if you’re not staying in Jasper itself. My cabin sat right opposite the frozen-over Lake Beauvert. I had a day to kick back before any adventure started so spent half of that exploring the lodge grounds and walking around the lake. The lodge has everything you’d need – restaurants, cafes, fat-bike hire, walking trails, bike trails, an ice-skating rink (in winter), canoe hire (summer, of course), and plenty more. In short, it’s nearly its own destination. I was, excuse the pun, warming up to a week here with little trouble…

The ice world
Maligne Canyon is Jasper National Park’s deepest canyon, measuring as much as 50 metres in some sections. The canyon features Karst topography (the same as in the Nullarbor Plain, oddly enough) and the erosion that has created spectacular swirls and the smooth finish of its walls is the result of the eons-old flow of the Maligne River. In summer it is a fantastic walk, following the path of the river along the high-set walkway, traversing a number of bridges (you can do shorter walks to the second and third bridge or do what we did and walk to the sixth bridge – approximately 3.5km). I joined a SunDog Tours ice trek through the canyon. The advantage of winter and the ‘big freeze’ is that hikers can actually get down to the floor of the canyon at certain points. Another advantage of these conditions is the resultant ice-climbing opportunities dotted throughout the canyon, with the many frozen waterfalls offering climbs for all skill levels in a truly spectacular location. Hiking through the bottom of the canyon, with the towering, smooth-faced blue-tinged walls of it looming above, was a brilliant introduction to winter adventures here. The hike itself is not strenuous at all – it’d be perfectly suited to most age groups – and the tiny effort of doing it rewards you in spades in terms of immersing yourself in an otherworldly landscape.

A floating sensation
It was with some slight trepidation that I rocked up to The Bench Bike Shop in Jasper the following morning, as ready as I could be for a morning fat-biking session. Not out of any fear of cycling, but just with a mind filled with questions of just how effective fat bikes would be on the snow that blanketed the whole region – and following on from that, just how much pain I was in for. Of course, I understood the theory; wide, big tyres running very low air pressures provide a big ‘bagged out’ footprint, allowing the tyre to spread out width- and length-wise to offer more contact with the ground surface, as well as offering more floatation, enabling the tyre (and consequently the rest of the bike and rider) to stay on top of the snow’s surface, not sinking in too much (or at all). This, in turn, would mean you could ride over said snowy surface without (hopefully) too much exertion.

Well, that was the theory, anyway, and it was one that I wasted little time in testing. After a quick g’day to The Bench Bike Shop owner, It was a quick hello to The Bench Bike Shop owner, Randal, and my guide for the day, Mike, before Mike and I were off, pedalling along Jasper’s main drag and heading toward some trails Mike had checked out earlier in the week.

If there was ever a perfect day to experience fat-biking on snow for the first time, this was it; the bluebird sky and bright sun, combined with the effort involved, soon saw us stripping off a few layers as we rode through some snow-drenched forest, on the way to a sweet trail that followed the bank of the pristine Athabasca River. Making it even easier to enjoy our surrounds was that the theory regarding fat bikes on snow was proving itself – and well; we made good, albeit bumpy, progress along some trails that walkers had already cut-in to the snow (there are no smooth groomed snow biking trails as yet in Jasper, but Mike said they are working toward making it happen) as we continued north-ish toward, firstly, Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge itself. After some photos, water and removal of a mid-layer, we continued further on, deeper into the national park, to the more remote Trefoil Lakes. 

It was a sublime experience; the silence of the snow-shrouded forests was only broken by our (well, okay, my) heavy breathing and the steady thrum of tyre on snow, with those wide tyres keeping us up on top of the snow’s surface most of the time. The only hazard – and I got caught out a couple of times – was when we hit ice on the tracks at any angle other than straight-on; the tyres’ rubber just had no purchase whatsoever on the hard, smooth ice, providing a few humorous moments of falling off bikes at very slow speeds. 

The relative ease with which we covered 15km made me think of just how much potential there was here for longer fat-bike-based adventures, with overnight (or longer) winter bikepacking expeditions a seeming no-brainer. As soon as they’re on offer, I will be one of the first to sign up.

Two wheels good, four paws faster
It’s all about teamwork apparently. This is something that myself and my sled co-driver, Oliver, soon find out after we start our dog-sled adventure with Cold Fire Creek Dogsledding. For sleds, the dogs are set up in three pairs, with each pair attached to a centre rope – a centre rope from which they are to stay on each side of. The dog teams are also set up according to performance: the most powerful are at the back, while the smartest and fastest are up front. The middle pair… well, in our team’s case, they just look like the canine version of a divorce, with plenty of bickering and sniping combined with the occasional nip at each other. With just two commands “Hike” to go and “Whoa” (along with a footbrake) to stop it shouldn’t be that hard, but after more than a few stop/start moments, one of our sled guides comes and removes one of the two offenders. After that, it is smooth – and fast – sailing.

For those who envisage fluffy, big Siberian huskies as sled-dogs, our crew might disappoint. The ‘Alaskan husky’ is of a smaller size and variety of appearances (it’s actually a mixed-breed dog) are a world away from the Hollywood movie sled dog: they are lean, lithe and bloody fast. Siberian huskies are bigger and heavier, and thus slower, while these mini-tornadoes are – literally – jumping with the need to get moving ASAP. Cold Fire Creek Dogsledding’s Amanda says the dog teams run around 25km each day and the crew uses a rotating roster of up to 90 dogs to transport visitors into this remote winter wonderland.

The dogs’ need for constant speed is proven again by the fact that not only does each sled have a large brake, designed to cut into the snow to slow progress, but there’s also – yep, really – an anchor. Initially, I had an internal chuckle, but once I had to brake a sled, then try and keep it stationary while six hyperactive canines continued to want to push forward, I came to appreciate that anchor very much.

It’s an exhilarating feeling; being pulled along by six dogs at some considerable speed, through a remote valley is hard to describe. The sensation of speed feels weird, too, as there is no accompanying sound of a motor, tyres, or anything mechanical – it’s all natural, with just the wind on your face – and an absolute hoot because of it. 

The long farewell
I am slicing through the snow in snowshoes, taking the ‘easy way out’ by following in the tracks of SunDog Tours Guide Wes, a former Parks & Wildlife ranger (he worked for National Parks for 37 years) who now takes visitors on trips into Jasper National Park. We are snow-shoeing across the frozen Maligne Lake. It’s actually a bit difficult for me to wrap my head around the fact we’re walking on frozen lake, due mainly to the fact that Maligne Lake is massive – at a touch over 22km long and with an average depth of around 35 metres – but even that size doesn’t stop the mighty Canadian winter from freezing the whole thing completely. As I take step after step, my mind still can’t comprehend just how cold it must get – and for how long – for a body of water of this size to freeze over.  

Silence is the catch-cry here at Maligne Lake. Besides Wes’s many talks about the national park, the landscape, and the wildlife that thrives in the winter here (he really is a walking encyclopaedia – which is simply awesome), the sense of eternal space created by the massive lake and the equally sizeable mountains surrounding it, seems to suck away any other sound. For anyone looking for a mental as well as physical escape, this lake and its surrounds – combined with the rhythmical sensation of snow-shoeing, are close to perfect. 

It’s amazing how much distance Wes and I cover; me listening to this human guidebook, him walking at a constant pace, we’re soon well away from the lake carpark and any other sign of civilisation. We stop, briefly, for a drink of water and a removal of a layer of clothing (yep, it’s another bluebird day) and it is now, with just the two of us standing like two specks of dust on the frozen lake’s vast white moonscape, that I think to myself: what if we just keep walking – and then walk some more. That’s how ingrained this region’s abundance of winter adventures, combined with a strong sense of place, has already become in my mind, as it braces itself for the return to ‘normality’. It’d be hard to stop walking, too, and I wonder if I may never want to; at the end of these five days, standing in the middle of a wonderful nowhere, I can see all the reasons why.

Getting there:  Air Canada flies daily to Vancouver from Sydney and Brisbane. From Vancouver, you can catch a flight to Edmonton, Alberta or catch the Via Rail train to Jasper direct.
See www.aircanada.com and www.viarail.ca
Staying there: Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge offers a variety of accommodation and is only a 15-minute drive from town. It hires out canoes and bikes to visitors and has easily accessed walking trails. See www.fairmont.com/jasper/ 
Jasper itself offers a variety of accommodation, plus excellent eateries and a great craft brewing scene. See www.jasper.travel for more info.
Activities: SunDog Tours offers numerous outdoor and adventure activities in the Jasper region. See www.sundogtours.com 
A dogsledding with Cold Fire Creek is a must. See www.dogsleddinginjasper.com 
Skiing and ice-climbing are very popular. Rockaboo Mountain Adventures is the go-to for both. See www.rockaboo.ca 
For all things Alberta, see www.travelalberta.com/au/
For Canada, see www.explorecanada.com.au
Thanks: The writer was a guest of Destination Canada and Jasper Tourism.

The post Winter is here: Adventure in Jasper, Alberta appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Never too many pubs 
Broken Hill was, in its mining heyday, packed with some legendary pubs (more than 70, in fact), and although there are less of these historic watering holes left in town now, those that still exist are well worth checking out. 

These iconic establishments in town are nothing if not grandly named, with the Black Lion, Old Royal, Rising Sun (1888; one of the town’s oldest hotels) and – most famously – the Palace Hotel (established in 1892), just some of them. The Palace Hotel is not just a brilliant example of the town’s watering holes, but it is also rather famous, having featured in the film, The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert (1994). 

A night or two in one of these Broken Hill establishments is the ideal way to – excuse the pun – whet the appetite for more of that unique country pub hospitality. For that, you really don’t have to venture far – and the road less travelled to get there makes it more than half the fun…

Another movie star
Blink and you may miss it – although most likely not; the Silverton Hotel is the quintessential outback pub, and you’ll often find not only more than a few travellers’ vehicles parked out the front, but also the occasional camel or donkey! The building is actually the third incarnation of the Silverton Hotel, with this one coming into being in 1918 after the second hotel burnt down and the owners acquired the town post office building for the ‘new’ pub. (The original hotel ruins, dating back to 1884, are located nearby.)

Walk inside the Silverton Hotel and the first thing you’ll see is the wide, wrap-around bar (lined with corrugated iron) and a vast selection of beers on tap, as well as wines and other alcoholic beverages. The bar is a brilliant place to sit back and sip a cold beer while chatting to the bar tender, a fellow visitor, or a local resident. The food here is also brilliant – as is the outside beer garden area where you can sit back, chow down and, sometimes, listen to some live music. 

Silverton itself is a famous movie town, having been the location for films such as Mad Max 2, Razorback, and A Town Like Alice, to name a few. The bar area is dotted with photos and memorabilia of those films being shot in the area and it makes a great way to pass some time, checking them all out. Silverton is also home to some famous outback artists, such as John Dynon (his gallery is just a short walk up the road), which means you’ve got the perfect excuse to stay overnight at the pub to explore the town in more detail – not a real tough decision to make!

Have a beer and leave your mark
For those looking for a truly laid-back outback pub experience, it is hard to beat the Tilpa Hotel, located right on the banks of the Darling River and about 3.5 hours’ drive east of Broken Hill. Yep, it’s a bit of a drive but you will also pass through Wilcannia along the way, itself home to some great examples of historic outback pubs, as well as other heritage buildings. The drive from Wilcannia to the Tilpa Hotel, following the Darling River Run Road, is itself a nice outback adventure. 

The Tilpa Hotel is well worth the drive; the low-slung, wide corrugated iron roof and shady verandah area hides one of the most unique pub bars in this country. Inside, you will find the bar’s walls adorned with thousands of travellers’ comments and signatures, reflecting their best memories from a visit to this area. For a small donation, you can add your own comments as well.

It’s hard to believe now that the pub (first established in 1894) was a key stop-over point for river boats that ran up and down the Darling River delivering goods and freight to local communities. The rear lawn area/beer garden offers the chance to relive that earlier life a bit while you sit in the shade looking over what is one of Australia’s most famous waterways. 

For those keen to stay the night here – and this writer, having done so, would definitely recommend it – you have the choice of a room in the pub itself, or you can take advantage of the excellent camping area directly opposite the pub (on the other side of the road). Here, you will find plenty of space for camper-trailers, vehicles, tents, etc., plus there are toilets and even hot showers (built by the Tilpa communiy; use is via an honesty system of a gold-coin donation).

And there’s more…
You will never run short of a country pub to visit in the Broken Hill and Central Darling region, that’s for sure. Besides the aforementioned hotels (and towns) there are plenty of others that offer just as memorable an experience. Venture an hour north of Wilcannia and you will arrive in the famous opal-mining town of White Cliffs, and the near equally famous White Cliffs Hotel. This grand outback pub (one of only a few buildings in White Cliffs that is located above the ground; most residences and other businesses are built below ground) has a huge wraparound verandah for those relaxing evenings sitting outside with a drink watching that outback sunset. Plus, there’s plenty of accommodation on offer so you can use it as a base for further exploration of the town and the mines.

For those who have headed southeast of Broken Hill for some camping at Menindee Lakes, and want a refresh (and a cold beer) after camping, there’s the brilliant Maidens Hotel (established 1853). The original pub here was actually visited by Burke and Wills in 1860; they camped at the hotel on their way through to Cooper Creek. Again, with great food and comfortable accommodation, it’s hard not to find an excuse to stay for a night.

There’s little doubt that, whether you’re an outback pub ‘tragic’ or just like spending time in a place that offers all the essentials – cold beer, great company and with grand history – the Broken Hill and Central Darling region has more than enough of that combo in its many fantastic ‘watering holes’. Really, do you need any more of an excuse to stop by and stay a while?

For more info on this amazing part of NSW, see visitnsw.com/Brokenhill

The post The country pub: An outback NSW icon appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Accessible for visitors from the eastern seaboard, a week’s break (or, of course, longer) in this spectacular region is easily accomplished. You can fit in some amazing adventures – and check out myriad spectacular sights – quite comfortably within that time frame.

Whether it’s camping in some of Australia’s most amazing national parks, such as Kinchega and Mutawintji (or on a working sheep station), checking out some of Australia’s explorer history, spotting some of the region’s rich bird- and wildlife, experiencing some awesome examples of the world’s oldest-living culture, or spending some time in the many character-filled pubs, the Broken Hill region is it.

The wild side

Mutawintji National Park is around two hours drive north-east of Broken Hill, and is rich in Indigenous history and culture, as well as some excellent bushwalking tracks and fantastic campsites.

The red-hued ramparts of the Bynguano Range towers over the main entrance to the park, with pretty Homestead Creek Camping Area below it and the start point for a number of walking tracks in the park there as well.

The bushwalks range from Grade 2 to Grade 5, with durations between one and six hours.

The Thaaklatjika Mingkana track is the easiest and shortest walk. It winds through gorge country to Thaaklatjika (Wrights Cave) and has fine examples of Aboriginal paintings, stencils and engravings.

The longest walk traverses the Bynguano Range and it’s here that you’ll spot ground-dwelling animals and birds in abundance. 

Kinchega National Park (the first declared national park in western NSW) is even closer – at 1.5 hours south-east of Broken Hill – and is not only amazing in its own right, but also houses one of the region’s most famous natural attractions: the Menindee Lakes system.

Dotted with river red gums along its shores, the lake system is one of Australia’s prime bird watching destinations. It is also home to some of this country’s most beautiful sunsets, along with the remnants of the “Providence” – an old paddle steamer – and Kinchega Woolshed.

There is plenty of camping in this national park along with three self-guided driving tours throughout the park (maintained by NPWS).

You can trace the Darling River on the River Drive, the Lake Drive follows the shores of Menindee and Cawndilla lakes, and there’s the Homestead Drive, which will take you to the park’s original homestead. 

In regards to homesteads, station life is still alive and thriving, with visitors also having the chance to camp at some working properties in the Broken Hill region.

Eldee Station is one example of the region’s station-stays and is a brilliant ‘working sheep/cattle property’ experience for the family. There is an excellent campsite right near the homestead (plus cabin accommodation) and plenty of easy to challenging 4WD tracks traversing the neighbouring Barrier Range and taking you and your family up to some simply breathtaking viewpoints, overlooking the vastness that is outback NSW.

That sense of space

And speaking of the vastness of outback NSW, this description extends above the ancient landscape, to the star-crowded night skies that the region is so famous for.

Outback Astronomy offers visitors the chance to learn more about the universe – and admire the sheer volume of stars in the night-sky – with educational nights during the year. Along with expert guides, Outback Astronomy provides reclining camp chairs and powerful binoculars for you to take full advantage of the lack of ambient light in the region, which allows the stars to shine so bright.

Of course, you can also just sit back in your own campsite, in one of the aforementioned national parks or working stations, and just look up and see it for yourself. And that’s part of what best describes the appeal of an adventure road trip to outback NSW and the Broken Hill region.

It’s the all-encompassing richness and diversity – from the ancient, rich-red sand under your feet to the ageless, star-smothered skies above, to that feeling of endless space and its abundance of quirky and entertaining characters.

For more information on this amazing part of NSW, see Visit NSW

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The post Discover the secrets of the Snowy River appeared first on Australian Geographic.

As well as the awesome riding experience, Thredbo Valley Trail (TVT) offers brilliant alpine views as riders follow the route, with parts of the track traversing open grasslands mixed with sections that take riders through dense snow gum woodlands and past towering mountain gums. This new extension means there is something for every rider, with the original upper TVT – at 16.7km – providing some fantastic riding for kids, families and the less experienced riders, while this new section is ideal for those looking for more – plus, more experienced riders can, of course, ride the whole thing.

Thredbo Valley Track is open from November to May (subject to weather conditions), and opens up one of Australia’s most iconic national parks to even more visitors, keen to not only try their hand at this new mountain biking track, but also check out the many hiking opportunities there, as well as the fishing and paddling. Plus, with the option of either staying at the NPWS’s Creel Lodge, or camping right near the track at either Ngarigo or Thredbo Diggings campgrounds, it’s a no-brainer to add Kosciuszko National Park to your adventure bucket list.

For more info, see Thredbo Valley Track.

The post The new mountain bike track in Kosciuszko National Park appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The Snowy Mountains

The ‘Snowies’ are chock-full of adventure year-round and one of the most popular NSW adventure destinations. Located around five hours drive south of Sydney (one to 1.5 from Canberra), this mountainous region includes adventure towns such as Jindabyne and Cooma, plus the ski and mountain bike Mecca of Thredbo. Spend a few days – or preferably a week – seeking adventure down here and it will just be a taste of the vast amount of fun on offer, making the perfect excuse for a return trip.

From June to October, the Snowy Mountains region is – yep, you guessed it – a snow-sports centre, with skiing at Thredbo, Perisher and/or Guthega and – for the more experienced – plenty of backcountry slopes to explore and test yourself on. From November to May, it’s adventure central; activities on offer include mountain biking (Thredbo’s just-extended Thredbo Valley Trail is a must-ride), hiking, fly-fishing, paddling, swimming, 4WD touring and brilliant camping. If you don’t want to camp, there is a variety of accommodation types at Thredbo, Jindabyne and Cooma.

During the warmer months, hiking Mt Kosciuszko is a must. From the top of the chairlift begins a medium-difficulty climb to mainland Australia’s highest peak. The three- to four-hour round trip covers spectacular alpine terrain and the view from the summit lookout, across the roof of Australia, is unforgettable. Guided walks are available from Thredbo and hikes to Charlotte Pass and Blue Lake are worth checking out as well.

Bike tracks around Thredbo and Jindabyne are suitable for everyone from beginners to pros and the trail networks here have expanded significantly over the last few years, so there’s plenty to keep riders busy. Thredbo’s trail network is awesome; whether you’re a beginner or hard-core downhiller, the resort’s ever-expanding MTB trail network has something for you. Add in the expanding trails around Jindabyne and another trail network at Cooma (just east of town on the Snowy Mountains Highway) and the region doesn’t disappoint for mountain bikers.

For paddlers, Alpine River Adventures offers five- or seven-day journeys along sections of the Snowy River, plus it also runs day-trips – the ideal way for beginners or those with less time in the region to still get out on this famous waterway. See Alpine River Adventures for more info.

Fact File

Getting there: The Snowy Mountains region is five to six hours drive south of Sydney, via the Hume Highway, then the Monaro Highway via Canberra, on to Cooma, Jindabyne and Thredbo. For supplies, food and accommodation, the major centres are Cooma, Jindabyne and Thredbo.

Accommodation: Cooma and Jindabyne consist mainly of holiday accommodation, ranging from unpowered campground sites to five star. While Thredbo Resort is expensive, it does put you right in the centre of the action. There are numerous campgrounds in Kosciuszko NP (plus a couple of cabins available for hire from NPWS) and it’s best to book early for the summer season. You will also need to pay a national park entry fee when you enter the park (you can get a day pass, or a longer duration pass).

More info: Visit NSW Snowy Mountains.

Kangaroo Valley

Kangaroo Valley is midway between Moss Vale and Nowra, southwest of Sydney. But the only way to get to the heart of the valley is by foot or canoe.

If you don’t mind dipping a paddle, launch your canoe onto Lake Yarrunga at Tallowa Dam, or paddle down Kangaroo River (you can hire canoes in town, or bring your own), leaving from under historic Hampden Bridge (the country’s oldest suspension bridge) and paddling 6km downriver (keeping an eye out for birdlife and platypus on the way) before finishing at Bendeela picnic area where you can either be picked up (after pre-arranging a shuttle vehicle) or, if you’ve packed your camping gear, you can doss down here in the campground for the night, beside the river.

For those looking for their own unique paddling adventure, Paddle and Portage Canoes offers bespoke canoe trips of any length. Plus it also hires out canoes. See Paddle & Portage Canoes for more info.

Take to the hills, meander along the river or venture through the forests via the various walking tracks. There are different kinds of walks to suit every level of fitness/age.

Whether you’re an experienced mountain biker or a beginner (or riding with kids), there are a number of tracks within both Morton National Park and around the village as well. Some follow sealed roads while others are a more technical. A longer – but graded easy/medium – ride is Upper Kangaroo River Road (24.4km return). Allow between half and a full day.

Fact File

Getting there: Kangaroo Valley is around two hours drive south of Sydney. Take the Hume Highway and then Old Hume Highway towards Mittagong, then follow signs to Nowra before turning left on State Route 79.

Accommodation: Camping is available at Bendeela Campground. The Kangaroo Valley Tourist Park has a number of self-contained cabins, powered and unpowered camping sites, as well as barbecues areas, river access, playground and volleyball and basketball courts.

More info: For more info on Kangaroo Valley and the surrounding Shoalhaven region, see Visit NSW Kangaroo Valley.

Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area

Sydney-siders are often guilty of ignoring what is one of this country’s best adventure destinations, in the form of the Blue Mountain World Heritage Area. This wild, rugged region contains a shed-load of great hiking experiences, sublime camping and world-renowned rock-climbing – and it’s all only a bit more than an hour from Australia’s largest capital city!

With numerous pretty mountain villages dotted around the Blue Mountains National Park, it’s super easy to make this destination the perfect – and highly repeatable – family adventure, with a number of guiding companies located in the ‘Blueys’ who can cater for any adventure request, whether it is climbing, hiking or canyoneering (one of the Blue Mountains signature adventures). These companies also offer itineraries suited to different skills/ages, etc.

Got a week? If you have, then make sure you spend it fully immersed in this epic bushwalking playground. Start off by spending a couple of days tackling the myriad day walks near Katoomba, including some of the best cliff-side tracks, such as the historical National Pass. Up the ante and head further west to Blackheath and the Grose Valley’s track network. Here, walks range from a couple of hours (the Grand Canyon Walk is brilliant), through to one of the most popular overnight treks – the Blue Gum Forest, which entails a descent into the Grose Valley via Govetts Leap, before you encounter beautiful waterfalls and creeks, as well as lush eucalypt bushland as you follow Govetts Creek down to Acacia campground.

And don’t forget the Six Foot Track. This three-day, 44km (one way) trek starts at the historic Explorers Tree (between Katoomba and Medlow Bath, just beside the Great Western Highway) and is for the more experienced walker. This track is fantastic, with well-positioned campsites (some with toilets) and that sensation of being right out in the wilderness – well away from the bustling tourist throngs in the Blueys’ villages.

Fact File

Getting there: The Blue Mountains region is one to 1.5 hours west of Sydney, via the M4 motorway. For adventurers, Katoomba is probably the closest thing to “Adventure HQ” here, with a number of guiding companies based in the Blueys’ pseudo-capital.

Accommodation: Everything from swish bed and breakfast cottages, to youth hostels, to national park campgrounds are on offer in the Blue Mountains region. The national park has a few campsites but, as with most popular destinations, it is best to plan and then book well before your trip.

More info: See Visit NSW Blue Mountains and NSW National Parks.

Sapphire Coast

This far southern section of the New South Wales coast has one of the highest densities of national parks in Australia. Spending a week or more over summer, idling your way down the Princes Highway, from the northern point of Cobargo to the southern end at Wonboyn (or in reverse if you’re coming from Victoria), there is a multitude of family-friendly adventures and some great accommodation options, ranging from bush campsites to caravan parks to B&Bs.

The beachside town of Tathra, in the northern section (about five hours drive south of Sydney) is famous not only for its beaches (think: surfing, SUP, diving) but increasingly for two-wheeled activity. Behind the town, forests hide over 50km of mountain bike trails for all skills and age levels. Further south, Merimbula and Pambula provide surfing and fishing opportunities, as well as the chance to spot migrating whales.

Eden, the famous “killer whale town” (thanks to its whaling history, which includes the unique relationship that formed between whalers and a pod of orca), looks out over Twofold Bay. There’s great fishing and plenty of scuba diving/snorkelling here, plus more whale watching, and sea kayaking. October is prime whale-watching time, so head south for the chance to spot the majestic migrating mammals.

For the little adventurers, the Sapphire Coast Marine Discovery Centre, nestled beside Snug Cove in Eden, holds a number of kids’ activities over the summer holidays, including a Snorkel Discovery Tour exploring waterways in Eden’s Snug Cove, or Merimbula. For trekkers, the two-day Light to Light Walk, in Ben Boyd NP, is actually still closed due to bushfire damage but you can still explore this great national park on day trips and day hikes. Just to the west of the Sapphire Coast is the massive South East Forests National Park, with opportunities for 4WD touring, canoeing, bushwalking and riverside campsites.

The fishing hotspot of Wonboyn is the southern-most village on the Sapphire Coast. It is also the entry point to Nadgee Nature Reserve, itself an outdoors fanatic’s dream. Here, in the reserve’s 20,671 hectares, you will find numerous hiking tracks (including the mighty 55km-long Nadgee Wilderness Walk), plenty of wilderness camping and magical beach swimming. Just make sure to check access to this reserve as it was severely damaged during the summer bushfires.

Fact File

Getting there: Cobargo (the northern tip of the Sapphire Coast) is five hours south of Sydney, via the Princes Highway, with Bega, Merimbula, and Eden all spaced about 20 minutes apart as you continue south. Eden is around six hours northeast of Melbourne, via the Princes Highway. Regional Express (REX) offers daily flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Merimbula (around three to four a day, depending on the season).

Accommodation: There are numerous camping grounds, caravan parks and motel/hotels on the Sapphire Coast. It is very busy in summer (and Easter) so book well ahead. The major centres – Bega, Merimbula, Eden – all have camping/outdoor stores. Camping fees apply in the area’s national parks.

More info: See Sapphire Coast and NSW National Parks.

The post Best outdoor escapes in NSW appeared first on Australian Geographic.

There is the Kokoda Track, of course but there is also much more, with the Papua New Guinea highlands synonymous with excellent trekking. Rugged hillsides covered in dense rainforest, wild waterways and mountains topping out above 4000 metres in height are – excuse the pun – highlights of this region. The best thing for Aussies is that Papua New Guinea is so close – and its adventures so unique.

Above the clouds

At 4509m, Mt Wilhelm is Papua New Guinea’s tallest mountain, surrounded by glacial valleys, dense forest, steep cliffs and a number of rivers. The trek to the summit takes three days, with PNG Highlands Adventures offering a five-day adventure that includes transfers to and from Port Moresby. Once clear of the city, you reach Simbu province before travelling through mountain valleys to your first night at the village of Kegusuglo and Betty’s Lodge. From here you start trekking, gaining altitude as you head toward your ‘basecamp’ at Pinude Yaundo Lake. A midnight start from here should see you and your guides reach the summit at around 6am. It’s no stroll but your efforts are rewarded with amazing views over a large part of Papua New Guinea. The descent back to Betty’s Lodge at Kegusuglo take most of the day before an early transfer the next morning sees you back at Goroka, and then on to Port Moresby the following morning. For those keen to immerse themselves more deeply in Papua New Guinea’s culture, PNG Highlands Adventures also offers an eight-day variant of the summit trek, adding in cultural tours.

Mount Giluwe is the country’s second highest peak, at 4367m, and loses nothing to its taller sibling in regards to trekking. Both PNG Highlands Adventures and Trans Niugini Tours offer five-day treks to the summit. The peak is part of a volcanic massif that offers high alpine trekking and sees you travel through forests of oak, karuka, pine and beech before entering the higher alpine zone, with its vast grassland dotted with clear tarns and lava boulders.

Birds and culture

Of course, the highlands region is famous for more than trekking; it is rich in birdlife and equally so in culture. This is where the benefits of exploring with an experienced guiding company come to the fore. Trans Niugini Tours offers an eight-day adventure for ‘twitchers’ (birdwatchers), with an initial half day spent at Rondon Ridge and the remainder of the trip at two of Papua New Guinea’s best wilderness lodges: Karawari and Rondon Ridge. You have the chance to spot everything from hornbills, frogmouths and parrots, through to the ‘big one’ – the colourful bird of paradise. Karawari Lodge, in Papua New Guinea’s Sepik region, reached via charter flight, river-boat transfer and four-wheel drive. The lodge sits on a ridge above the Karawari River and is ideal for those looking to spot one or more of the 225 bird species (including bird of paradise variants) recorded in this area.

Anyone exploring Papua New Guinea must experience some of this country’s varied culture. Trans Niugini Tours offers an excellent eight-day village adventure. From a visit to a remote elementary school deep in the highlands, to the differences between women’s and men’s traditions throughout the region, each day provides insight into the highlands’ rich cultures. A highlight is staying overnight in a Karawari village where houses are built on stilts and life is centred the Karawari River; dugout canoes are the only mode of transport here.

So it’s no exaggeration to say that the Papua New Guinea highlands offer not only one of the world’s best treks (the Kokoda Track) but many more exciting foot-borne adventures. Lump in the vibrant culture – and even more vibrant birdlife – and it’s easy to be thankful that this outdoor wonderland is so close to Australia.

Fact File

For all things Papua New Guinea, see Papua New Guinea Travel

For information on guided adventures in Papua New Guinea: Trans Niugini Tours, PNG Highlands Adventures.

Getting there: Air Niugini offers regular connections from Sydney, Brisbane and Cairns up to Port Moresby, and an extensive domestic route network throughout Papua New Guinea. See Air Niugini.

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With expert leaders and extraordinary experiences, World Expeditions offers once-in-a-lifetime adventures.

Its exclusive adventures are escorted by inspirational people who have made an impact in diverse fields ranging from science to photography and journalism. Travelling with them will take your next travel experience to a new level as your expert escort shares with you their insights, secrets and stories of the places they know so well and which have inspired their successful careers.

Join one of World Expeditions’ exclusively led adventures to some of the planet’s most captivating and intriguing places, travelling alongside experts including Tim Cope, Professor Tim Flannery, Dr Karl Kruszelnicki, Peter Kuruvita, Adam Liaw, Kate Leeming, George Negus and Richard I’Anson.

Exclusive trips 

Join George Negus in South America (Colombia and Chile) for an 18-day odyssey, or in the Middle East (Jordan, Israel and the Occupied Territories) for a 14-day tour for the mind, body and soul.

Explore Antarctica alongside one of the world’s most accomplished adventurers and polar veterans, Jon Muir, or photograph it with Canon Master Richard I’Anson.

Venture to the Mongolian mountains and steppes, and meet local nomadic families to learn of their centuries-old traditional lifestyles with adventurer Tim Cope.

Challenge yourself on an exclusive, new cycling trip through the remote Indian Himalaya.  Crossing three passes over 5,000m, on some of the world’s highest roads in the company of elite endurance cyclist, Kate Leeming.

Enjoy a taste of Japan with chef Adam Liaw – sample an amazing array of fresh foods, stay in a traditional ryokan, experience the country’s beautiful gardens and temples, and hike along forest trails.

Refine your photography skills with Richard I’Anson along the Silk Road in Uzbekistan, on the Markha Valley Trek and during Ladakhi festivals in India, or capture China’s winter festivals and landscapes.

World Expeditions has been offering adventure holidays since 1975, when it ran its very first trip to Nepal. This pioneering heritage continues today with an exclusive range of trips, hosted by experts to off-the-beaten- track destinations.  Designed for active people, World Expeditions offers travellers BIG adventures with a small footprint.

It offers travellers BIG adventures with a small footprint:

• Great value, high-quality adventures
• Stringent safety procedures and standards
• All inclusive pricing and added comforts
• Leaders in responsible adventure travel
• Authentic experiences – our trips start where others end
• Pioneers in designing ground breaking treks and itineraries
• Supported by some of the world’s most respected adventurers
• Experts in creating flexible custom adventures

Trips sell quickly. Join World Expeditions’ enewsletter to learn when new departures are released or book your exclusive trip today.

The post Big adventures, small footprints appeared first on Australian Geographic.

This journey will take you from New Zealand via the ‘stepping stones’ of the rugged and wild Subantarctic Islands – The Snares, Auckland and Macquarie islands – breaking the long journey and introducing travellers to nesting seabirds, seals and rare flora, and the islands’ rich biodiversity paving the way to an incredible Antarctic experience. There will be opportunities for thrilling wildlife encounters from nesting albatross and rowdy penguin rookeries to lazing seals and sea lions.

Crossing the Antarctic Circle, where the sun stays above the horizon, you’ll move closer to Mawson’s Antarctica. Pelagic birdlife wheels overhead on your journey south as you navigate astounding ice formations and marvel at Mertz Glacier’s ice tongue.

Weather conditions will determine your final expedition explorations in East Antarctica; the aim is to gain first-hand insights into this remarkable destination. Highlights of your voyage in this region will include exploring and retracing history at Cape Denison, the location of Mawson’s Hut, where you’ll visit the far eastern sector of the Australian Antarctic Territory, conditions permitting. While visiting the hut is high on the wish list, landings in this area are determined by the effects of Katabatic wind and ice. Mawson was very much one for science and knowledge, but realised the need to push the boundaries of endurance to achieve this goal. Your experienced crew and expedition team will be monitoring conditions closely so you’re as likely as possible to achieve your goal, and follow in the footsteps of this legendary explorer.

The itinerary has a good number of days in Antarctic waters to maximise the time for landings, so there will be opportunities to explore on Zodiac cruises along the ice edge and among passing floes. You should encounter adelie penguins swimming close by or resting on floes, and ,if  lucky, emperor penguins too. Cetaceans on previous expeditions have included fin, minke, blue and humpback whales; orca also can be seen in this region. Birds you’re likely to encounter include snow, Antarctic, giant, Wilson’s storm and cape petrels, as well as Antarctic fulmar, while crabeater, weddell and leopard seals may be resting along the ice edge. With long daylight hours and magnificent landscapes, the photographic opportunities are endless in this land of snow and ice.

Also planned is a visit to the region Terre Adelie, which has a coastline of roughly 300km and comprises the French sector where the French station Dumont D’Urville is located, and close by, Port Martin.

Heritage Expeditions’ 25-plus years experience travelling to Antarctica, its experienced sailors and knowledgeable guides, and its fully equipped and ice-strengthened ship, means it is well prepared to embark on this truly epic adventure.

Find out more about dates, prices and the itinerary on this Heritage Expeditions trip here.

The post East Antarctica: In the wake of Mawson with Heritage Expeditions appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The mere mention of Lord Howe Island elicits responses like ‘Jurassic Island’, ‘one of the most beautiful places in the world’, ‘magic’ and ‘awesome’, so I was keen to check it out for myself. The fact that there would be no wi-fi or TV for my kids – Jack, 11 and Tom, 13 – was a bonus; I had been wanting to take them on an adventurous holiday away from screens and devices for some time. With a limited amount of people allowed on the island at any one time, hardly any cars, amazing wildlife, great walking and climbing, great diving and snorkeling, kayaking, bike riding, stunning beaches and beautiful food, Lord Howe sounded like the perfect place for us all to get active.

Part one of the adventure was the propeller-plane flight. I’m not a lover of flying at the best of times, but the boys were excited, and as it turned out it was only two hours from Sydney. We flew over seemingly endless blue ocean then, on approach, we spotted the amazing Balls Pyramid, soaring out of the sea, then Lord Howe itself, with its dramatic volcanic landform.

From the air, it does indeed look like the island out of Jurassic Park. The boys were already excited as the plane approached the little runway jutting from the island. Once landed we were met with a friendly welcome from our host Dani, a fifth generation Lord Howe islander who with her husband runs the family friendly Pinetrees Lodge – a business that has also spanned the generations on Lord Howe. The first things to strike you as you walk out of the airport are the two mountains Mt Lidgbird and Mt Gower. They rise up steeply, covered in vegetation apart from their bare vertical volcanic rock walls. The other noticeable sight was the huge cattle grazing the fields adjacent to the runway.

Day 1 – Mountain High

We caught a shuttle bus to Pinetrees Lodge, had a quick bite to eat and decided to try and climb a mountain on our first day. You need a guide to take on Mt Gower, which has some very challenging sections and takes quite a bit of time, so the boys and I settled on a shorter climb to Goat House Cave on Mt Lidgbird. We set off on our hired bikes (the island’s main mode of transport) along the relatively flat roads to the start of the walk, then washed our feet in the National Parks cleaning station. Lord Howe is World Heritage Listed and there are a number of on-going environmental protection projects to ensure the preservation of the environment, and these stations help prevent the spread of fungi into the rainforest that could be lurking on mainland shoes.

We started the ascent up to the ridge, which proved pretty easy for the boys as they ran up the steps. Then we walked along a ridgeline to commence the climb to Goat House, through lush rainforest. Some of the steep sections were made easier thanks to ropes on the side of the track and although the climb was a challenge, we were all enjoying it. Finally we burst out of the rainforest to be greeted by the spectacular view looking back the full length of the island.

We scaled the last section of the climb and sat down to survey the view as three red-tailed tropicbirds circled above. Hearing their calls and seeing their spectacular the tail feathers trailing behind them, we really felt as though we were in a prehistoric scene.

Day 2 – Friendly Fauna

On our second day we tackled the 5km track from Soldiers Creek to Mutton Bird Point. It winds through distinct forest types, with some interesting volcanic rock formations along the coast. It was a very low tide and we had been advised to head to Middle Beach in the afternoon to see the exposed rock pools and coral reef. A rock pool enthusiast since childhood, I had never seen such a stunning array of life and diversity of creatures; we immediately spotted some blue lipped clams, so vivid in colour, and there was live coral in the larger pools, along with black clown fish, sea slugs, a huge array of other colourful tropical fish, crabs, all sorts of shell fish, sea urchins and anemones. We spent a good two hours completely fascinated and engaged, mindful only to remember that the tide would come in eventually.

Lord Howe is famous for its birdlife, they say, due to the island never having been settled prior to the arrival of Europeans, so the birds are relatively unafraid of humans allowing visitors to get nice and close. At the end of Middle Beach we walked up to a colony of nesting sooty terns. Amazingly, we were able to sit only four metres from the colony and could clearly see the little newborn chicks and the unhatched speckled eggs that the birds were sitting on. This too could have easily stretched to hours of entertainment, but dinner beckoned and we started to make our way back to the lodge.